According provided by lens Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical many thanks to Andrey Ivanov.
Review Nikon 18-140mm VR
Nikon 18-140mm VR was introduced in the summer of 2013 as a replacement for the obsolete Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Asphericalreleased back in 2006. I suspect the 140mm focal length was dictated by the need to accurately distinguish the new '18 -140 VR 'from the old '18 -135', which turned out to be not the most popular lens.
Main technical characteristics of Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical:
| Review Instance Name | Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical |
| Basic properties |
|
| Front Filter Diameter | 67 mm, plastic thread for filters |
| Focal length | 18-140 mm EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 27-210 mm |
| Zoom ratio | 7.8 X (usually rounded to 8) |
| Designed by | for digital cameras Nikon DX |
| Number of aperture blades | 7 rounded petals |
| Tags | focal lengths for 18, 24, 35, 50, 70, 140 mm, bayonet mount mark and hood mounts |
| Diaphragm | 18 mm from F / 3.5 to F / 22. 140 mm from F / 5.6 to F / 38. The lens is deprived of the aperture control ring, control is via the camera menu (G - lens type) |
| MDF (Minimum Focus Distance) | 0.45 m over the entire range of focal lengths, maximum magnification ratio 1: 5 |
| Stabilizer features | 4 stops by CIPA standards. The stabilizer monitors the movement of the camera while shooting panoramas. |
| The weight | 490 g |
| Optical design | 17 elements in 12 groups, including
Image of optical circuit clickable |
| Lens hood | Nikon HB-32, bayonet type, plastic, the following lenses use the same lens hood: |
| Transportation | With a soft cover CL-1018 |
| Manufacturer country | Thailand, inscription on the lens: “MADE IN THAILAND”. Important: since 2016 the lens has been produced in China. |
| Period | From 2013 to the present day (at least until 2017) |
| Instructions | View–> |
| Price |
It is interesting to note that the Nikon 18-140mm VR only has one aspherical element in its optical design, while the old Nikon 18-135 has two. You can view and compare optical schemes in the section about 'Optical design for all Nikon DX lenses'.
Since the Nikon 18-140mm VR has a built-in focus motor, it is perfect for any Nikon DX class camera. The lens itself can act as “lens for all occasions“. True, for versatility you will have to pay low aperture.
Nikon 18-140mm VR Side View
Autofocus speed is average, almost exactly the same as that of Nikon 18-200mm GII VR, Nikon 18-200VR, Nikon 18-300 / 3.5-5.6 VR, Nikon 18-300 / 3.5-6.3 VR, Nikon 18-135 и Nikon 18-105VR, if we compare the focusing time from infinity to MDF and vice versa (analysis can be carried out on video from the network). Of all the Nikon DX zoom lenses, it only focuses noticeably faster Nikon 16-85VR, Nikon 17-55 и Nikon 18-70. Funny but even the simplest lenses Nikon 18-55G, 18-55GI, 18-55 VR, 18-55VRII still focus a little faster than Nikon 18-140mm VR.
The autofocus speed at 18 mm focal length is slightly faster than 140 mm. A decrease in the auto focus speed with an increase in the focal length is common to almost all super-zooms Nikon DX.
View Nikon 18-140mm VR at 140mm
The lens has internal focusing, which makes it possible to use light filters without any problems. The front lens also does not rotate when zooming. But the rear lens moves when zooming and creates the effect of a “vacuum cleaner”. The zoom ring is rubberized, wide and easy to operate.
The minimum focusing distance is only 45 см. This is a very good indicator for super-zoom, and allows you to shoot objects close-up, with a magnification of approximately 1: 4.3.
The lens has a 'A-M' focus mode switch, exactly the same as previous lenses: Nikon 18-135 и Nikon 18-105VR. Sorry but the lens does not support continuous manual focus control Nikon M / A.
The 'A-M' switch in this lens is non-standard. Normally, in all lenses equipped with such switches, manual focus cannot be performed in 'A' mode. But here is what the manual says for Nikon 18-140mm f / 3.5-5.6G:
Manual focus can be performed even if the AM lens mode is set to A. Set the camera to focus on AF-S and press the shutter-release button halfway to autofocus. Then, while holding the shutter-release button halfway, manually rotate the lens focus ring to fine-tune the focus. Note. Do not try to rotate the focus ring while the autofocus function is operating. When the autofocus function completes, release and press the shutter-release button halfway again.
Thus, in AF-S mode, after successful focusing, you can still rotate the focus ring to adjust the focus or refocus it. Unfortunately, such a property is only a miserable semblance of a full-fledged regime M / AM with the possibility of constant manual focus control.
You can find more information about lenses with a similar feature in the section Focus Features 'A', for some Nikkor lenses with the 'A-M' switch.
Nikon 18-140mm VR rear view
It's a pity, but, unlike more advanced lenses, Nikon 18-140mm VR, apart from focal length markers, does not have any useful designations, such as focusing distance or depth of field.
Enlightenment of the rear lens of the Nikon 18-140mm VR lens
Made lens in Thailand. There are no complaints about the assembly. Very good, which, unlike Nikon 18-105VR и Nikon 18-135The new lens has a metal mount. The lens from this review is new, and therefore I have not yet observed a spontaneous loss of a trunk under its own weight, perhaps such an ailment will never occur in the lens. But still, a small drawback is the lack of a hood in the package, which will have to be purchased separately. Nikon 18-140mm VR uses the HB-32 lens hood exactly the same Nikon 18-105VR, Nikon 18-70 и Nikon 18-135.
Enlightenment of the front lens of the Nikon 18-140mm VR lens
The lens has a built-in image stabilizer and a dedicated 'VR ON OFF' switch to turn it on and off. The stabilizer works fine, I have no problem took off without grease at shutter speeds of 1/60 second and 140 mm of focal length. When turning on and off, the stabilizer emits quiet clicks.
View of the Nikon 18-140mm VR lens on the slam-shut device
Nikon 18-140mm VR tried to do well, it has good sharpness, but chromatic aberration is not so good. The lens noticeably suffers from distortion (especially at 18mm, the gallery has examples of photos with curved walls) and vignetting on open apertures. In backlight, it can easily catch glare. I did not find anything outstanding or serious flaws in the lens.
The parameters shown in the photo gallery:
Everything is filmed on Nikon D80 using protective filter fox Digital SC UV 67mm. On camera JPEG L fine without treatment, reduced size to 3 MP. Everything was shot in N (Neutral) Picture Control. Noise reduction function is disabled at slow shutter speeds, noise reduction function at high values ISO - 'Norm' or 'Off'.
Optical design AF-S DX18-140mm f 3.5-5.6G ED VR Nikon
In my opinion, the Nikon 18-140mm VR can be a worthy replacement for staff members from the category 18-55 / 3,5-5,6, but change to it Nikon 18-105mm VR I don’t see the point. Yes, and the newcomer is still a little expensive. The advent of Nikon 18-140mm VR can satisfy those who need focal length Nikon 18-105mm VR 'few', and Nikon 18-200mm VR - roads. I almost never met Nikon 18-140mm VR as a complete lens for modern cameras and I think that it is much more profitable to buy a kit with Nikon 18-105mm VR... My rating of stock Nikon DX zoom can be found in the 'Choosing a Nikon Camera and Lens'.
Lens prices in popular stores can look at this link, or in the price block below:
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
An accurate list of all Nikon DX Nikkor lenses
- 10.5 mm/ 2.8G AF Fisheye [gold ring]
- 35 mm/1.8G AF-S
- 40 mm/2.8G AF-S Microphone
- 85 mm/3.5G AF-S VR Microphone
- 10-20 mm/4.5-5.6G AF-P VR
- 10-24 mm/3.5-4.5G AF-S
- 12-24 mm/4G AF-S [gold ring]
- 16-80 mm/ 2.8-4IN AF S VR [gold ring]
- 16-85 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 17-55 mm/2.8G AF-S [gold ring]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S [black / silver]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S [black / silver]
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S VR
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-P
- 18-55 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-P VR
- 18-70 mm/3.5-4.5G AF-S
- 18-105 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Thailand / China]
- 18-135 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S
- 18-140 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Thailand / China]
- 18-200 mm/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR [Japan / China]
- 18-200 mm/3.5-5.6GII AF-S VR
- 18-300 mm/3.5-5.6G VR
- 18-300 mm/3.5-6.3G VR
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6G AF-S [black / silver, Japan / China]
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6G AF-S VR
- 55-200 mm/4-5.6GII ED VR
- 55-300 mm/4.5-5.6G AF-S VR
- 70-300 mm/4.5-6.3G AF-P
- 70-300 mm/4.5-6.3G AF-P VR
Results
Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical turned out to be a worthy super-zoom. Such a lens is suitable for most photo tasks and will be damn useful on vacation or outdoors.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Does it make sense to change 18-135 to us 18-140 to improve the parameters of ISO? D7000 carcass is not enough in the premises
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The exact same dark lens, only better and with a stabilizer. The stabilizer will certainly help to increase the shutter speed and lower the ISO, provided that you are not photographing people. And so - a flash to help or a fast fix.
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Interestingly, did anyone compare with the more expensive 16-80? Strongly he loses to him, or comparable?
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It seems like 16 80 is significantly better
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but according to tests on the Internet with examples of photos, at a wide angle it is much inferior to the old 16-85
well yes the long end is superior
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Is it suitable for Nikon D3100?
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Yes
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Suitable for
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I work with Tamron 18-200. From the pics, I noticed a more interesting drawing from the presented Nikon. True, it’s difficult to judge, because carcasses are different. I'm using the D5300. Objectively, there is an opinion that focal lengths work only up to 130 mm. Yes it is. Verified personally. But, there is a need for 200 mm.
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The question is - what is, focal lengths work fine (abnormal)?
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Does anyone use a 39-16 HB-85 lens hood on this lens? For some reason, the ordered duplicate snaps crookedly. Differences in blends or a feature of Chinese manufacture?
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Hello! I am looking for zoom for Nikon crop. Options Nikon 16-85 and Nikon 18-140. My desire is the sharpness of the frame!
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Hello! I ask for your help, I bought a Nikon DX VR AF-S Nikkor 18-140mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical lens from Avito. Obviously, I do it with hands, it seems that the glass is so scratched that the pictures are cloudy (I wiped the lens, wiped it), of course, I pull it out in the FS, but can I do something so that the pictures are not so dark? Or is it a property of this lens?
I have 55-200, and then it is not so dark (so I think, maybe it is scratched, it is not visible to the eye ... Just do not swear, but if you can tell me.
Thank you
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So cloudy or dark? An example would be nice
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I can't attach a photo, it throws it out of the site, what should I do?
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It turns out it was necessary to reduce the size of the photo)))
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How can you suggest something without seeing either the lens or the photos taken by it ?! Give us something already.
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Barely added a photo)
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Thank you)
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The darkness of the lens is unclear. Did you shoot with the 55-200 lens under the same conditions? By turbidity, you mean the blur of objects that are not in the depth of field? For the open aperture in the last two shots, the quality for this lens is normal. If you want more objects in depth to be sharp (fall into the depth of field), close the aperture to 10 or more, but at the same time the shutter speed will become very long, there will be smudges from the movement of hands and from the movement of objects, the way out is an inexpensive flash that can puff into the ceiling for TTL, i.e. on the machine.
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There and in the grip everything was soapy and there was a flash - there was no shake. The right side of the frame is sharper than the left and center
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Thank you so much! You answered in such detail, let me ask you one more question, already about the video on this camera (I have a Nikon-1) ... due to the lack of a video camera, I shoot the holidays in kindergarten on a camera, tell me if there is any trick so that focus does not run out during shooting? Still, it is not clear on the display, I only see how the squares are running ((((... Sometimes I take it off, but on my computer I am completely out of focus ... Please tell me how best to shoot video with Nikon-5100 with this lens?
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Focus, then press the AE-L (AF-L) button at the back. You can change the function of the button to AF-ON in the Custom Settings item f2, then autofocus will turn on only when you press this button.
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Guys, thank you all the more for your help! You helped me a lot!
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You know, it's still not entirely clear to me how to correctly change the focus in video mode, is it possible to zoom in or out of an object during shooting and focus on it? It's hard to judge by the screen. In order not to get into a mess at all, you have to shoot from the same distance, but you really want to zoom in to better see the emotions of children ...
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You can try zooming in with autofocus enabled in AF-C mode. If not, then by hand. Or close the aperture a little, so that at different focal points the object does not fall out of focus
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Thank you very much for the tips, they helped me a lot! I have an inexpensive flash, but somehow I did not feel its help in poor lighting ... if you puff at the ceiling, which is very high in kindergarten, then there is no sense, and if you tune directly to the children, then they all wash away with tears (there was bitter experience ...)
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He fell on the march. Pictures are NOT normal. Something cannot be done - you need to carry it for repair
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Yes, it is also possible that the rear lens is very dirty (this is the one on the side of the camera). If it has not been wiped, then it is worth doing it
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In an amicable way with a special lens. If not, use an ear stick. Front and rear lens. To better remove the fat - on any candle, collect the soot on a tablespoon and wipe it with this soot. This is atomic carbon, the same carbon used on all LensPens - it removes these impurities well and does not scratch the glass. Just be careful. But I agree, the lens shoots like a tilt-shift, tilted to the left, DOF is not flat. The lenses are clearly displaced after falling.
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Ugh. "For a good special lens" - for a good special pencil. I read the message and realized that it was not clear. Ear stick - plastic, cotton wool on both ends. There is soot on the spoon. We collect black soot from a spoon with this stick and blow it over the dirty lens, then brush away the collected dirt with the clean end of the stick, blow it off. Everything is very neat. Fingers and injuries on the rear lens contribute most to the sharpness of the picture.
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Thanks everyone for the help! I'm afraid of wiping the lenses from the side of the camera, what if I'll make it even worse? Maybe you should buy what special means? We have nothing, well, order on the internet, right? I'm afraid to breathe on mirrors, not like vazyukat with a cotton swab)))
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Maybe wipe it from this side? Tell me please
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Here, wipe with a cotton swab. Do not touch the camera itself
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Front and rear objective lens, yes. If you do it carefully, only with a cotton part, everything will be fine. You can do it without soot, but grease from fingerprints sticks to it well, cleaning is faster. There are special pencils called LensPen. They can consist of two parts, on the one hand a brush, on the other - something like a porlon with carbon on it.
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https://www.takefoto.ru/articles/svoimi_rukami/991_chistka_obyektiva_kopotyu - here is a detailed instruction.
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There is nothing to do here
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Thank you very much! So many people tried to help me - it's very nice, I learned a lot from the explanations!
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I wonder why Avito is full of ads for the sale of 18-140 in almost new condition. Maybe someone in the know?
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It is quite possible that many lenses were standard lenses included with cameras and the owners did not really need them. And since the price of a bundled lens is lower than separately, there is a hope to sell it at a higher price.
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For the same reason why it is full of almost new condition and 18-105, and 18-55.
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Arkady welcome! Tell me if it makes sense to buy it with 35k mileage. for 7250 rubles? Doesn't fold under its own weight. The whole. A set, except for a bag + a hood from China. There is a whale of the third version and fifty dollars. Thank you!
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Explain how mileage in the number of frames taken affects lens wear?
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the degree of wear of the AF drive motor and the diaphragm drive can be estimated. a number of new canon ef lenses have counters for the number of times the AF motor is turned on and the number of aperture actuations.
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It's clear. You can also turn the focusing ring for days until the rubbing elements are completely worn out. The question is that the questioner indicated a mileage of 35 frames. If you follow the logic, then after 000 frames the lens can be safely thrown away?
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I do not know. I asked kenon and nikon about the optics resource, but they did not answer anything intelligible. except for the self-evident - its resource is 10 years, which is directly written on it.
By the way, manual focusing can also be purely electronic. so just turning the focus ring (with the optics off) will not lead to anything))
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Well, how does it not lead, if you connect it to the electric motor through the pressure roller, then you can scroll all the moving elements into the trash.
And 10 years, indicated on the label, is to the problem of "tin mustache":
https://alex-avr2.livejournal.com/211190.html
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I think everything is much simpler. a regular change of technique is needed to increase the blachable state of the production))
from there, the legs of a poor-quality shutter canon 6d, an erasable optical ruler canon 85 1.8 and so on grow.
“Planned obsolescence” is a reality in our life.
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Well, “limited product life” is an old song. Capitalism has not been canceled. And the problem of tin crystallization is a real thing. NASA conducted research after short circuiting in instruments due to this phenomenon.
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about tin whiskers, of course, I know everything. we take this into account when developing.
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To be honest, I didn't see the logic of why exactly 350000, and not 150 or not 500, let's say, however, the frames are different, and in different conditions. In any case, the mileage of the lens does not say practically anything by itself, but the appearance and the picture that the lens gives out can already say a lot.
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the manufacturer did not give me a clear answer for what the operating time counters were introduced. and what their values are. maybe they are collecting statistics.
although in many lenses it is not the motors that are subject to greater wear, but the helicoid position sensors - the optical ruler for the kenon and the magnetic sensor for the nikon.
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I just multiplied by a factor of 10. I'm talking about this and say that the mileage does not matter, as Dima pointed out in his question. You can take a million shots in the studio and the lens will be in perfect condition. And you can drown, drop, stain, and so on in the first trip.
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Of course, it does not have it directly, especially since you cannot check the mileage on this lens.
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I get the impression that some citizens have done whatever they can think of with lenses. We counted the frame counters, measured the distortion, learned to clean and repair, measured, and tweaked the support. Only they didn't shoot anything.
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I didn’t shoot, because this is not interesting to me at all. I had a purely engineering interest. received authorization and satisfied him.
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Some more speedboosters played.
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Ivan, oga. A very strange curiosity, I saw many Western fans of technology, but it did not turn into an end in itself. I can still write off my interest in professional deformation, but when these inquiries, these pangs of choice, the analysis of hundreds of variables, so that “here's my worn-out cabinet, on it books, an icon, a dim lamp - tell me why I have such noise in the shadows on my still life ”. And then the lens on the shelf. Well, why?
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2Roman
reply to the last message.
I have never had the agony of choice or desire to ask such strange questions.
there was a list of questions, the answers to which were interesting to me. I did not ask anyone, for it was obvious that the answers to them would not be freely available. and therefore took a number of actions, and gained access to classified information, service documentation and hardware and software. having received answers, he stopped further research.
now, from time to time, I repair their photo junk for friends. It's easy for me, but they are pleased and economical))
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2Roman, yes, in general, everything is just like everywhere else, in F-1, too, someone got to drive the cars, and someone turned the wheel nuts in the pit stop zone, there is nothing reprehensible in this.
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Of course, this does not apply to medium-format lovers of cats with railway tracks.
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Cats with a pewter mustache.
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Hello. I have a Nikon DX VR AF-P Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G lens, would it be better to change it to AF-S DX 18-140mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR nikkor?
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If you need focal lengths longer than 55mm. will be better.
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As if with focal points, everything is clear. It is not clear how sharp it will be compared to the Nikon DX VR AF-P Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G and how it will be at focal lengths greater than 55mm. I’m taking pictures now on the Nikon D 5300, the Nikon DX VR AF-P Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G lens, with the right settings and focus, the pictures are very good, the sharpness is excellent, at least on the subject. Nikon AF-S DX 18-140mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR nikkor, of course, in terms of focal lengths, it is much more interesting, but the quality of the photo is much more important, higher focal lengths. That's why I asked if Nikon DX VR AF-P Nikkor 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6G should be changed to Nikon AF-S DX 18-140mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR nikkor.
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The quality will be approximately equivalent, subject to equally successful copies.
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Thank you
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Will he be able to reveal the sharpness of the d7200 matrix?
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Matrix sharpness?)
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I didn’t write it that way, I don’t know what it’s called, but I wonder if this lens will be able to properly realize and reveal the potential of the matrix in terms of sharpness? I know that the fix will be better, but it's interesting about the zoom lens
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Honorable community and dear Arkady Shapoval!
I bought a Nikon 5300 with a regular Nikkor 18 -55. And I wanted a little more: 18-140 or 18 - 200 The final focal length is not so important. like a picture, sharpness, detail, saturation, contrast and less distortion)))))
To complicate the issue, there are 18-105 available for me to use. but it is not enough
I am an experienced amateur, I shoot for myself, not for making money. So price matters too.
What do you advise, dear Arkady and society?
Second question. From old stock I have a Rikenon 1.7 / 50 lens for M 42 thread
Would you advise a master in Kyiv to transfer it to the Nikonovsky mount?
Thanks in advance for your replies
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18-105 of the entire list of "whales", the most balanced, in my opinion. The picture is definitely not for such lenses, the greater the zoom ratio, the more distortion, the other parameters you specified are quite easily wound up during processing. What do you recommend? buy some telezoom in addition to 18-105.
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https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=662&Camera=614&Sample=0&FLI=4&API=1&LensComp=665&CameraComp=614&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=3&APIComp=1
Compare according to this table_ so 18 -105 is better than the rest - 18-55, 18-140, 18-200
But by eye in the viewfinder it seems not
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By eye, in the viewfinder, all lenses are the same.
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I compared the sharpness of 18 -55 and 18-105 at a focal length of 55mm ... The object is a distant turret with a balcony. The sharpness is almost the same. did not see a significant difference compared on the computer screen
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At infinity, and even on such a class of lenses, you will not see.
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Nikon 5300 camera
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Please tell me if anyone has experience: I bought a new D7500 with 18-140 yesterday. At some point, when moving the zoom ring, clicks appear. That is, I turn it from 18 to the maximum and when moving there are sort of stepwise clicks, I didn’t count the number. Both in that direction and in the opposite direction. Sounds like a diaphragm. Is this normal or shouldn't it be like this? The clicks are not constant, I could not determine the dependence of their occurrence. Let's say I turned it on, the zoom moves with just a rustle, I took a few pictures, then when I zoom, these clicks appear
It shoots fine.
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I forgot to add, sorry - this only happens in live view mode, when shooting through the viewfinder there is silence.
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Hello, will this lens work fully with the NIKON D90?
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yes it will
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Thank you very much, otherwise on the Internet some write that it will not fit the mount, others write that it will fit, but either the stabilization will not work, or autofocus, or that it is designed for multi-pixel matrices and should stay away from matrices like the nikon d90 So I'll buy it
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Everything will work perfectly, no options
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