Overview of Jupiter-11A 4/135

According provided by lens Jupiter-11A 4/135 many thanks to Vitaly Semenyuk.

Overview of Jupiter-11A 4/135

Overview of Jupiter-11A 4/135

There are many modifications of the Jupiter-11 lens:

  • ZK 1: 4 F = 13.5cm P (1948), rangefinder version, M39 mounting thread, the so-called 'Zonnar Krasnogorskiy'
  • Jupiter-11-1 4/135
  • Jupiter-11A 4/135 black, with interchangeable shank, presented in this review
  • Jupiter-11 4/135 white, with a landing thread M39 for SLR cameras
  • JUPITER-11 4/135 AUTOMATIC, with a specific mount for the Kiev-10 and Kiev-15 cameras
  • Jupiter-11 4/135 for 'Start' cameras with its own specific bayonet mount
  • Jupiter-11 1: 4 f = 13,5cm P white, with M39 thread, for SLR cameras
  • Jupiter-11 4/135 white, with M39 mounting thread, for rangefinder cameras of the 'Zorky' brand
  • JUPITER-11 1: 4 F = 13,5cm P with Contax-Kiev RF bayonet for rangefinder cameras 'Kiev' manufactured by KOMZ
  • JUPITER-11 1: 4 F = 13,5cm P with Contax-Kiev RF bayonet for rangefinder cameras 'Kiev' manufactured by KMZ
  • JUPITER-11 4/135 with Contax-Kiev RF bayonet for rangefinder cameras 'Kiev' manufactured by KOMZ

I haven’t come across variants of the lens with the name spelled in the Latin alphabet 'Jupiter-11', but they say that there were also export Jupiter-11. The most interesting option is Jupiter-11Apresented in this review - it has a replaceable shank and is the easiest to install on any modern SLR camera. Different lens options differ in body frame, MDF, aperture method and flange distance. Jupiter-11 has not been updated to the multi-coated version and has the usual single-layer coating. And here is his 'older' brother, Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 can be found in multi-enlightened version.

How to use with modern cameras?

'A' lenses with an interchangeable shank, such as the one in this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both DSLR and mirrorless), just select correct adapter. Soviet interchangeable shank 'A' is similar to 'T2 Mount'. The cheapest adapters can be found aliexpress.com

For use on modern digital SLR cameras Canon EOS need adapter T2-Canon EOS, you can buy such an adapter (interchangeable shank) here. Such an adapter can still be replaced with a set of shank KP-A42 + M42-Canon EOS.

An adapter is required for use on Nikon SLR cameras T2-Nikon F, buy such an adapter (interchangeable shank, analogue KP-A / N) it is possible here.

How to use this lens with cameras of other systems (Pentax, Sony, Fujifilm, Olympus, Panasonic, Samsung, Sigma etc.) - ask in the comments and you will be prompted. If you have any questions on compatibility and adapters - ask in the comments (comments do not require any registration at all).

Jupiter-11A 4 / 135

Enlightenment of the front and rear lenses of Jupiter-11A 4/135, view of the aperture blades

The lens has a metal focus ring that rotates approximately 270 degrees. The minimum focusing distance is only 1 meter, in contrast to 1.2 m Jupiter-37A. When focusing, the front lens does not rotate, and the trunk lengthens noticeably. For focusing, a conventional linear lens block movement scheme is used. On the body there is a focus distance scale and a depth of field scale for F4, 8, 16 and 22. There is an infrared shift mark.

A distinctive feature of the lens is 12 blade aperturewhich creates almost even 'circles' in the out-of-focus area. The diaphragm can be adjust smoothlywithout stopping at fixed values. Sorry, but the aperture blades have metallic reflectionthat only creates unnecessary reflections in the middle of the lens. To control the diaphragm near the front lens of the lens there is a special ring. Few people know, but using the aperture control ring aperture preset can also be performed. To preset the aperture, you need to move the aperture to the F / 22 position, then press the aperture ring toward the bayonet, rotate to the desired value and release. After this manipulation, the aperture will operate in the range from F / 4 to the set value. This is a very nice and useful feature for quickly sharpening at the maximum open position, and then shooting at the desired value for the photographer F. The exact same mechanism is also available Jupiter-37A.

Jupiter-11A 4 / 135

Jupiter-11A 4/135 with an installed hood when focusing on MDF

The copy that I visited has a serial number No. 741021 (judging by the number and logo, it was made at the Kazan Optical and Mechanical Plant), its case is badly worn, but the paint did not begin to peel off. The entire lens is made of metal and glass, the assembly at a very high level is an honor and praise to former standards. On the lens case is the inscription 'Made in USSR'. Jupiter-11A may suffer from an excess of oil on the blades of the diaphragm - oil may enter the inner surfaces of the lenses.

The lens came to me for a review in black native case along with wonderful metal hood. The lens hood is screwed into the thread under the filter (diameter 52mm) It is very rare that the hood can be screwed back and forth, however, at the same time, access to the focus and aperture ring rings is completely lost.

Jupiter-11A 4 135

Jupiter-11A F4 135mm and Jupiter-37A F3,5 135mm are almost the same size

Now Jupiter-11A is sold a little cheaper than Jupiter-37A. The difference in aperture ratio between F / 3.5 and F / 4.0 is only a third of a stop, so Jupiter-11A can be a normal replacement for Jupiter-37A, but I still advise you to spend a little more money and get MS version of Jupiter-37A. I recommend a small note by Dmitry Evtifeev about Jupiter 37A 135 / 3,5 vs Jupiter 11A 135/4.

Jupiter-11A 4 135

Jupiter-11A 4 135 on the ZK

On cropped cameras Nikon DX EGF lens will be almost 203mm, which may seem to many users too long and not a practical focal length. I really liked the lens for its small size, but it's still 135 mm focal length!

The parameters shown in the photo gallery:
Everything is filmed on Nikon D700. On-camera JPEG L ('optimal quality' compression), no processing. Functions: vignetting control, ADL, long exposure noise reduction, high ISO noise reduction were turned off. Everything was shot in SD (standard mode): contrast correction - 0, brightness - 0, saturation - 0, hue - 0, sharpness - position 5 of 10. Used white balance: 'Auto'. The size of the photos was reduced to 3 MP.

More sample photos on Canon EOS 600D (with processing) and this lens for Radozhiva was kindly provided by Alexander Frolov.

Sample photos on Nikon D40.

Jpeg source photos view and / or download from this link (80+ photos, Google Drive gallery).

Enlightenment objective Jupiter-11A and Jupiter-37A

Enlightenment of the lenses Jupiter-11A and Jupiter-37A

Results

Jupiter-11A 135/4 can serve as a lens for creativity. Has a rather weak fix aperture... There are many inexpensive Japanese lenses of the 135 / 2.8 class that are faster than this Jupiter, and because of this they are more preferable. The lens itself is well made, but optically not quite perfect due to poor backlight performance and chromatic aberration. Also, the lens has a yellow-greenish Soviet 'bottle' color rendition, which is typical for many old lenses with single-layer coating. In general, the lens is a lot like its older brother - Jupiter-37A 3.5 / 135... It is considered that Jupiter-11 is one of the the best soviet portrait lenses.

Material prepared Arkady Shapoval... Look for me on Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram.

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Comments: 89, on the topic: Overview of Jupiter-11A 4/135

  • Nicholas

    I have 37A - I tried it, chose from two copies, put it on the shelf. Not impressed. Then I came across a white SLR Ju-11. I lay idle for a long time, I was too lazy to buy a 39-42 ring, because I had read reviews about “37 is better”. But somehow he bought the ring in passing, put it on camera ... Miracle! And then 11A got caught. While lying, waiting. In general, I am thinking about testing everything that I have for 135 mm: Yu-11A, Yu-11, Yu-37A, Yu-39, Tokina RMC 80-200 / 4, Tokina RMC 100-300 / 5, Tamron SP 60 -300, Sigma 135-400. So far, of all this menagerie, I definitely like the U-11 and Tokina 80-200, and the U-39, if you need to shoot in a tough counter.

    • SergeyM

      I tried three Jupiters-11, two rangefinder m39, and one mirror, but also m39, all white.
      I bought for 500-1000, sold for 1500-2000 rubles. I tested and got rid of. All of them shit ... An indistinct picture, on an open soap, dark.
      Then on the occasion I bought a brand new Jupiter-1000 for 37 - that's a bomb!
      Juicy, three-dimensional picture, super sharpness on the open aperture.

  • Sergey

    Good day :)

    Thanks to Arkady for this and other work. Thanks to you, the masses are enlightened! :)

    Small additions regarding the twisted hood, twisted lens block and fanaticism. The design of the 58mm ring (on which the hood is attached) provides two small (1mm diameter) through holes. These holes are diametrically opposed to each other and are intended for a special optical key. If you find a thin but strong wire / rod along the diameter of the hole, you can try to unscrew the ring from the lens block / hood, etc.
    And another tip, if there is a problem with a tightened thread, then use, as mentioned earlier, a mixture of WD-40 (but without fanaticism). You can still, before wrapping, go through the thread with a regular pencil (if there is no grease). Graphite between rubbing parts will help reduce friction.

    Thank you all success!

    • Andrey Vyunenko

      The fact that the lens hood turns out to be sorted out is news for me!

  • Andrey Vyunenko

    Good day to everyone! From my father’s classes in film photography, I have Jupiter-11A; judging by the first digits of the serial number, 1970. I installed it on the Nikon D70, I didn’t find any problems when shooting. Here are some test shots from a tripod.

    • Artyom

      Can I have a more detailed number?

  • Andrey Vyunenko

    Sorry (-: Pictures are not uploaded. In the evening I’ll try from the computer.

  • Peter

    Good afternoon, can anyone tell me how to completely disassemble this lens for alignment, cleaning and lubrication? I got it cheaply, but the focusing ring is very difficult to scroll in certain areas ...

  • Vlad

    Hello!
    Tell me, please, how to choose an adapter for the Panasonic GF3 mirrorless camera for the monitored lens?

  • Karen

    Hello, Arkady, I didn’t find my lens on your list - Jupiter 11 is white with a thread on m42, so I’m putting his photo. On the case there is an inscription - Made in USSR.

    • Bercoot

      Judging by the photo, white 11th 42 mm in perfect condition. My same one got in the worst condition. Tell me, do you have the same infinity does not focus? I tried to shoot the moon - no sharpness. The rest - like it. They offer another 11a black, I think is it necessary?

    • Rodion

      It just black ring M39-M42 stuck and can not be removed. A frequent occurrence.
      To obtain infinity on these lenses, sometimes it is necessary to unscrew the lens block and grind the adjustment ring by 0.3 mm.

  • Vladimir

    Useful article, thanks!

  • Nastya

    hello) can you still tell what kind of adapter you need for Canon? if I put it on the M42, is it suitable?

    • KalekseyG

      Modifications with m42 will do

      • Nastya

        thank you)

  • Anatoly

    Good evening, Arkady!
    There is a Jupiter-11 4/135 lens white (with a M39 mounting thread, from 'Sharp').
    If you are interested, I can submit it for testing and review.
    Regards, Anatoly!

  • Tessai

    I bought 11A. Surprised. Okay, smooth, creamy, like Carl Zeiss Jenna Sonnar 135 / 3.5 - like a thick glass behind the object. Or ice. The picture is contrasting, sharp. My copy is 70, but works perfect. True, the aperture ring is a bit tight. But this is not critical. I'm using a crop (Sony A77) and there is no desire to return to the Ju-37A. Maybe because I don't have the MC version, or maybe because with 11A the pictures seem to me more folly. Everything is subjective.

    • Novel

      So this is practically Sonnar.

  • Paul

    Good day. I have the following lens JUPITER-11 1: 4 F = 13,5cm P. (Metallic or white ?!)
    Exactly the same as yours in the review, but only with Contax-Kiev RF mount, I accordingly have NO mount.
    The next question is - HOW do I understand, before buying adapters, my lens for SLR cameras or rangefinder type Kiev, Zorkiy?

    And another question.
    Share the link to the M-39 adapter with a lens and / or with a chip. Like M-42s.
    Thank you.

    • B. R. P.

      A lens without a mount? Show.

    • Denis

      And it’s better not to fool yourself and buy something from which all these Jupiters ripped off. I took a Carl zeiss sonnar 3,5/135 zebra. Ideally, of course, it is better to take the MS version. But even this option is just great. The purest, just the same watercolor Zonnar blur is something.

  • Jury

    Hello. I bought an adapter T2 - Nikon F for this lens (photo attached), but for some reason it did not fit. A shank with an M42 thread is screwed onto the lens, there is no endlessness with it and this adapter. If you remove this shank from the lens and unscrew the threaded ring from the adapter, the hole in the adapter is larger than the ring with a groove on the lens, which makes it impossible to install it. Can someone tell me which adapter I need?

    • Oleg

      1. Remove the M42 shank from the lens. 2. Screw the T2-Nikon into its place (without a ring in the middle). It is a little wider, they are all like that. Here, either figure out some kind of gasket, or find more authentic screws, or screw it as it is, placing it in the center and carefully tightening the screws in turn. I did so in a situation with a similar Ju-37A. Everything works, there is infinity (with a slight overshoot). The lens does not fall off from the shank. In any case, if you do not twist too much, when the focusing on the edge rests (which, as it were, does not need to be done at all, but you never know who is used to it). You also need to place the adapter correctly before screwing. This does not affect the technical moment, but it can be inconvenient if the scale with different numbers turns out to be in a wrong place.

  • Andrei

    About the T2 adapter is not entirely true. T2 adapters are a transition from a 42mm thread with a pitch of 0.75mm to the required bayonet or thread. It always consists of two parts, an inner one with a tapered surface and an outer mating cylindrical surface with 3 clamping screws. This is necessary so that you can turn the lens to a comfortable position. So it looks like the T2 standard requires the presence of such an element in the adapter, but the size of this pairing does not specify. At least I came across adapters that did not fit the shank under the CPNA. Loose and the length of the clamping screws was not enough.

    • Andrei

      So I use the m42-EOS adapter in the KPNA-m42 bow. But what to do for Nikons? Most likely you will have to buy CPNA for nikon. Or fit the T2 backdrop onto elongated screws plus cold welding.

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