answers: 8

  1. Jury
    08.11.2013

    Arkady, what do you think, is it worth buying the RMC Tokina 24mm 1: 2.8 N / Ai or Nikon 24mm f / 2.8D if there is a modern and good kit, say, 18-105 or 18-70? Will RMC Tokina 24mm 1: 2.8 N / Ai be any better in terms of sharpness, aberration, backlighting, etc.? Of course, apart from the luminosity, this is understandable.

    Reply

  2. Andrei
    08.11.2013

    Samyang 16mm F2.0 ED AS UMC CS is more than 5 times more expensive than this Tokina. I used it on a crop D300, vignetting by me was not noticed.

    Here are photos taken of this particular Tokina from a review in May with the same neutral camera settings:
    full size without any processing, only conversion to jpeg bp CNX2, handheld, 1/60 sec, f / 5.6, ISO: 1000: http://img.fotki.yandex.ru/get/9256/209875682.15/2_WmSbGdd28jHXZPWGIjZRHRMR5vE=_a24f7_23080c9b_orig

    Here, except for frames with bricks (chamber jpeg), with a little processing: http://fotki.yandex.ru/users/tyrson/album/362368/?

    The lens is for sale.

    Reply

  3. Yuriy75
    08.11.2013

    Thank you Arkady for the work, oddly enough, I liked Tokin more than Nikon, and the distortion seems to be less.

    Reply

    • Arkady Shapoval
      09.11.2013

      Yes, Tokina is better at that.

      Reply

  4. Roman
    09.11.2013

    Lavra is a great place.

    Reply

  5. Alex storm
    10.11.2013

    Arkady, can you tell me how this "kid" works on film cameras? Recently I have been shooting relatively a lot on film and this lens does not want to work correctly with my F90x ... Everything is clear in numbers - you just program the carcass and everything. To be honest, I took this lens for a landscape, just under the film, and it is a "parasite" that seems to be in conflict with exposure metering and the aperture values ​​are not displayed on the LCD monitor. Of course, I could spit on the LCD indicators and, as in the good old days, everything is by sight and from experience .... but I'm afraid suddenly the jump rope won't work and I'll have to throw the already expensive slide into the furnace. Of course, you can check everything, but the film is now loaded in the device, so the actual question is - so as not to wait until the frames, so to speak, end ...: 0)
    Thanks in advance.

    Reply

    • Arkady Shapoval
      13.11.2013

      I didn’t use it on film, but I think that everything will be fine there.

      Reply

  6. Roman
    17.02.2016

    Hello Arkady, thanks for your reviews, it’s always very interesting to read, I have such a question, I sold Nikon 35 1.8G, and I bought a Nikon 70-210 f4, a d7000 camera with a little extra money, now I want to replace the 35-ke with a manual lens a full frame, in general I want a lens with a viewing angle of a full-frame fifty dollars, advise lenses costing up to $ 100 so that they are no worse than 35-ki, on a fully open aperture, I photographed mainly at 2.8, because 1.8 is soap and not a photo, I look at Tokina rmc 28 2.8, Tokina rmc 24 2.8, or maybe the Soviet WORLD 20H, Is the world 10A. I didn’t find any really on sale, maybe you will advise something, thank you in advance.

    Reply

Reply

 

 

Top
mobility. computer