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Every day in the comments on my blog 'Radozhiva' the same question is heard - 'which Canon SLR camera to buy?'. In this article I will share my thoughts on this. Please note that the article is very full of subjective factors, since there are a lot of little things to consider when choosing a camera. I work as a professional photographer, and also do reviews of photographic equipment, shoot on almost all Canon and Nikon SLR cameras, you can say I ate a dog with these cameras and lenses.
All Canon digital SLR cameras can be divided into 3 classes:
- Amateur - These cameras are aimed at people who just need to get a high-quality photo without understanding the intricacies and settings of the camera. Most often, amateur cameras are best suited for people who do not take pictures professionally, but simply want a good camera for home, leisure, travel, family, nature, etc., so that the camera is light, easy to operate and inexpensive. Actually, Canon has the largest range of cameras in this segment.
- Advanced amateur - have advanced functionality with a large number of specific settings that you can deal with for a long time. These cameras are suitable for advanced amateurs who already know the settings, or want to get good potential for mastering skills in photography. Also, these cameras are noticeably more expensive and heavier. A distinctive feature of advanced amateur cameras is the presence of an additional monochrome display on the top panel of the camera, which helps to quickly access a number of settings.
- Professional - these cameras are designed for people who take professional photographs, know a lot about photography and are not afraid of manual settings. Typically, these cameras have a much better body and functionality. A distinctive feature of such cameras is the lack of a built-in flash (for the pros it is not particularly important). Usually these are full-format cameras or cameras with crop factor Kf = 1.3. Also, cameras of the highest price range have a combo case with a special additional handle that helps to keep the camera in portrait (vertical) orientation. I do not specifically touch upon this class of cameras in this article, because there is a million and one nuances in choosing professional equipment, and professionals themselves often know which camera they need.
For beginners and amateurs, I recommend Canon amateur cameras, which are represented in 2017 by 17 models.
The camera is a complex technical device, and the equipment does not stand still. In the tablet I indicated your rating of cameras based on the date the camera was released and its technical characteristics. I think that now the best amateur camera is the Canon 800D, this can be seen from the table below.
When choosing a camera I do not recommend paying much attention to the number of megapixels, in most cases, a huge number of megapixels is not in demand and even unnecessarily, in more detail in sections Battle of Megapixels, Gigapixels и Pixels and Subpixels.
Canon 800D is primarily interesting for its swivel touch screen, fast continuous shooting and excellent video quality.
Rating | Model | Year | MP | Frame per second | Focus points | Video | Dislpey |
1 | 850D | 2020 winter | 24,1 | 7 | 45 (45 k, Dual Pixel AF) | 4K 24p, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels, rotary and touch |
2 | 800D | 2017 winter | 24,2 | 6 | 45 (45 k, Dual Pixel AF) | Full HD 30fps, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels, rotary and touch |
3 | 760D | 2015 winter | 24,2 | 5 | 19 (19 k, Hybrid AF 3) | Full HD 30fps, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels, rotary and touch |
4 | 750D | 2015 winter | 24,2 | 5 | 19 (19 k, Hybrid AF 3) | Full HD 30fps, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels, rotary and touch |
5 | 250D | 2019 spring | 24,2 | 5 | 9 (1 k, Dual Pixel AF) | 4K 25 fpsstereo sound, focus tracking | 3-inch, 1 pixels, rotary and touch |
6 | 200D | 2017 summer | 24.0 | 5 | 9 (1 k, Dual Pixel AF) | Full HD 60i, mono sound, tracking focus | 3.2-inch, 1 pixels, rotary and touch |
7 | 2000D | 2018 winter | 24.0 | 3 | 9 (1 k) | Full HD 30fps, mono sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 920 pixels |
8 | 700D | 2013 spring | 17,9 | 5 | 9 (9K, Hybrid AF) | Full HD 30fps, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels, rotary and touch |
9 | 650D | 2012 summer | 17,9 | 5 | 9 (9K, Hybrid AF) | Full HD 30fps, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels, rotary and touch |
10 | 100D | 2013 spring | 17,9 | 4 | 9 (1 k, Hybrid AF 2) | Full HD 30fps, mono sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels, touch |
11 | 600D | 2011 winter | 17,9 | 3,7 | 9 (1 k) | Full HD 30 stereo sound | 3-inch, 1 pixels, swivel |
12 | 550D | 2010 summer | 17,9 | 3,7 | 9 (1 k) | Full HD 30fps, mono sound | 3-inch, 1 pixels |
13 | 1300D | 2016 winter | 17,9 | 3 | 9 (1 k) | Full HD 30fps, mono sound | 3-inch, 920 pixels |
14 | 1200D | 2014 winter | 17,9 | 3 | 9 (1 k) | Full HD 30fps, mono sound | 3-inch, 460 pixels |
15 | 4000D | 2018 winter | 17,9 | 3 | 9 (1 k) | Full HD 30fps, mono sound | 2.7-inch, 230 pixels |
16 | 500D | 2009 spring | 15,1 | 3,4 | 9 (1 k) | Full HD 20fps, mono sound | 3-inch, 920 pixels |
17 | 1100D | 2011 winter | 12,2 | 3 (2, 0.8) | 9 (1 k) | HD 720p 30fps, mono sound | 2.7-inch, 230 pixels |
18 | 1000D | 2008 summer | 10,1 | 3 (1.5) | 7 (1k) | LiveView only | 2.5-inch, 230 pixels |
19 | 450D | 2008 winter | 12,2 | 3,5 | 9 (1 k) | LiveView only | 3-inch, 230 pixels |
20 | 400D | 2006 summer | 10,1 | 3 | 9 (1 k) | No | 2.5-inch, 230 pixels |
21 | 350D | 2005 winter | 8 | 3 | 7 (1 k) | No | 1.8 inches, 118 pixels + monochrome |
22 | 300D | 2003 summer | 6,3 | 2,5 | 7 (1 k) | No | 1.8 inches, 118 pixels + monochrome |
In the plate in the column about focusing points, the letter 'k' means the number of cross-shaped focusing points. Such points help better cope with focusing in difficult conditions. For details on how focus points work on Canon cameras, see 'Canon EOS Camera Focus Sensors'. Cameras for which 'Tracking Focus' is not specified will automatically focus when shooting video unless the '*' button is pressed or the shutter button halfway pressed.
About the video: I want to convey to buyers that auto focus on all Canon cameras (except for cameras that support focusing Dual Pixel AF) when shooting a video, it works very poorly. This is due to the fact that the mechanism of a digital SLR camera is poorly adapted for focusing with a raised mirror, which requires a video mode. Typically, focusing when recording video occurs in contrast, rather than using the phase sensors of the camera. Canon says cameras 750D.760D 700D, 650D, 100D they use a hybrid focusing system to achieve fast and accurate focusing when shooting video, but in reality the automatic focusing with these cameras is still quite slow.
The same goes for Nikon SLR cameras and Pentax. If autofocus is very critical when shooting video, then I advise you to look towards Canon cameras with focus Dual Pixel AF, which provides high speed and focus accuracy when shooting video.
Various Canon camera names: 'D', 'Kiss Digital', 'Digital Rebel'
Canon in different countries calls its amateur cameras differently: in Japan they are known by the name 'Kiss Digital'and in the USA under the name'Digital Rebel'. Below is a table of correspondences of names. In Europe and other countries, cameras have a familiar name with the letter 'D'after the model number.
EOS 'D' | Digital Rebel | Kiss Digital |
100D | SL1 | X7 |
200D | SL2 | X9 |
300D | Digital rebel | Kiss digital |
350D | XT | n |
400D | Xti | X |
450D | xSI | x2 |
500D | T1i | X3 |
550D | T2i | X4 |
600D | T3i | X5 |
650D | T4i | X6i |
700D | T5i | X7i |
750D | T6i | X8i |
760D(8000D for Asian markets) | T6s | — |
800D | T7i | X9i |
850D | T8i | X10i |
1000D | XS | F |
1100D | T3 | X50 |
1200D | T5 | X70 |
1300D | T6 | X80 |
2000D (1500D for Asian markets) | T7 | X90 |
4000D (3000D for Asian markets) | T100 | — |
Canon EOS 77D for Asian markets may have a name '9000D '.
If you are limited in funds, then a good option for an amateur Canon camera is the simple and affordable Canon 1300D, which, together with a standard (whale) lens, costs about 400 USD.
As for the advanced amateur camera, in my opinion, full-length Canon 6D и Canon 6D MarkII are a very interesting option. If there is no desire to get in touch with the full frame, then Canon is an excellent advanced amateur camera. Canon 7D MarkII.
Rating | Model | Year | MP | Frame per second | Focus points | Video | Dislpey |
1 | Canon 7D MarkII | 2014 | 20,2 | 10 | 65 (65 k, Dual Pixel AF) | Full HD 60fps, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels |
2 | 90D | 2019 | 24 | 11 | 45 (45 k, Dual Pixel AF) | UHD 4K 3840 x 2160 30p, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, touch, swivel |
3 | 80D | 2016 | 24 | 7 | 45 (45 k, Dual Pixel AF) | Full HD 60fps, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels |
4 | 77D | 2017 | 24 | 6 | 45 (45 k, Dual Pixel AF) | Full HD 60fps, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels |
5 | 70D | 2013 summer | 20,2 | 7 | 19 (19 k, Dual Pixel AF) | Full HD 30fps, stereo sound, tracking focus | 3-inch, 1 pixels, rotary and touch |
6 | 7D | 2009 autumn | 17,9 | 8 | 19 (19 k) | Full HD 30fps, mono sound | 3-inch, 920 pixels |
7 | 60D | 2010 summer | 17,9 | 5,3 | 9 (9 k) | Full HD 30fps, mono sound | 3-inch, 1 pixels, swivel |
8 | 50D | 2008 summer | 15,1 | 6,3 | 9 (9 k) | LiveView only | 3-inch, 920 pixels |
9 | 40D | 2007 summer | 10,1 | 6,5 | 9 (9 k) | LiveView only | 3-inch, 230 pixels |
10 | 30D | 2006 winter | 8,2 | 5 | 9 (1 k) | No | 2.5-inch, 230 pixels |
11 | 20D | 2004 summer | 8,2 | 5 | 9 (1 k) | No | 1.8 inches, 118 pixels |
12 | 10D | 2003 winter | 6,3 | 3 | 7 (1k) | No | 1.8 inches, 118 pixels |
13 | D60 | 2002 summer | 6,3 | 3 | 3 (1k) | No | 1.8 inches, 118 pixels |
14 | D30 | 2000 spring | 3,1 | 3 | 3 (1k) | No | 1.8 inches, 114 pixels |
I did not include the Canon 20Da and 60Da cameras in the table because of their specific features, which are of little interest to the ordinary amateur photographer. If you have limited means, then a good option for an advanced amateur camera Canon is Canon 70D.
Usually cameras of advanced amateur and professional classes are sold separately from the lens, such a kit is called a 'body', and when a camera is sold with a lens, it is called a 'kit' (this is how cameras from the amateur segment are most often sold), and the lens from the shipment is called a 'whale lens' (sometimes abbreviated and simply called "whale", which creates confusion - both a kit and a lens from such a kit are called the same word).
Attention: you cannot take pictures with one “body” camera, you should always take pictures with a lens :)
Important: usually, if you buy a camera with a whale lens (the so-called whale kit), then such a kit will cost less than buying a camera and the same lens separately.
There are lenses really different, for different purposes and for different tasks. Usually comes with a camera universal standard lensthat can be used for basic tasks. With a standard lens, you can shoot landscapes, close-ups, portraits - almost anything. Most often, the kit contains the cheapest lens of class 18-55 / 3.5-5.6 - Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6 IS or Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6 ISII... Also, you can find options with better quality options - Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 18-55mm 1: 3.5-5.6 IS STM or Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 18-135mm 1: 3.5-5.6 IS STM.
The choice of other lenses requires a separate large article, but in addition to the standard (universal whale) lens, I recommend getting a fast, discrete fix the lens. Such a lens does not know how to zoom, but has a higher aperture than "whale". This will allow you to easily shoot in low light conditions, control the depth of field (create blurred background in photos), create a 'bokeh effect', get brighter and more vivid colors in photos.
- Canon EF-S 24mm 1: 2.8 STM
- Canon EF 50mm F / 1.8 II
- Canon EF 50mm F / 1.8 STM
- Canon EF 40mm 1: 2.8 STM
- YONGNUO LENS EF 50mm 1: 1.8
- How to check the camera when buying is described in the section Camera check.
- The performance of all Canon cameras can be found here.
- You can read general information on the Canon EOS system here.
- A list of all Canon EF-S lenses will find here.
My experience
I recommend spending less time choosing a camera - more time will be spent on the photo itself. All cameras are presented in tables (except Canon 6D / 6D MarkII) have the same physical size of the sensor, and therefore at low ISO values, you can get good photos with the same probability. The camera is not always plays a decisive role When creating great photos, the skills of the photographer, lens and light sources are almost always more important. For example, below are my shots on the very first digital SLR camera from Canon, produced in 2000, with a simple lens Canon EF 50mm F / 1.8 STM:
![Canon EF Lens 50mm 1: 1.8 STM](https://radojuva.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/canon-50mm-stm-review-sample-2.jpg)
Examples of shots on Canon EOS D30 и Canon EF Lens 50mm 1: 1.8 STM you can see here to register:. increase.
![Examples of images on the Canon EF Lens 50mm 1: 1.8 STM can be viewed here. Click to enlarge.](https://radojuva.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/canon-50mm-stm-review-sample.jpg)
Examples of shots on Canon EOS D30 и Canon EF Lens 50mm 1: 1.8 STM you can see here to register:. increase.
My very useful advice - if there is no money for a new camera, ask your friends for help in buying a used one. camera. Personally, I would opt for the cheapest amateur cameras Canon 1100D, Canon 500D or advanced Canon 60D. If the video recording function in the camera is not critical, then you can stay on amateur Canon models 450D и 1000Das well as advanced models 40D or 50D.
Mirrorless cameras
Canon also launches a range of mirrorless cameras with interchangeable lenses, as cropped (bayonet mount EF-M) and full-frame (R mount) EF-M and R mounts are completely different and lenses cannot be used between them.
List of all Canon EF-M mount cameras
- Canon EOS M
- Canon EOS M2
- Canon EOS M3
- Canon EOS M5
- Canon EOS M6
- Canon EOS M6 MarkII
- Canon EOS M10
- Canon EOS M50
- Canon EOS M50 MarkII
- Canon EOS M100
- Canon EOS M200
An accurate list of all Canon EF-M lenses
Fix Lenses:
- Canon Lens EF-M 22 mm 1:2 STM [2012, 2 colors, AliExpress]
- Canon Lens EF-M 28 mm 1:3.5 Macro IS STM [2016, AliExpress]
- Canon Lens EF-M 32 mm 1:1.4 STM [2018, AliExpress]
Wide angle lenses:
- Canon Zoom Lens EF-M 11-22 mm 1: 4-5.6 IS STM [2013, folding body, AliExpress]
Universal Lenses:
- Canon Zoom Lens EF-M 15-45 mm 1: 3.5-6.3 IS STM [2015, foldable body, 2 colors, AliExpress]
- Canon Zoom Lens EF-M 18-55 mm 1: 3.5-5.6 IS STM [2012, AliExpress]
- Canon Zoom Lens EF-M 18-150 mm 1: 3.5-6.3 IS STM [2016, 2 colors, AliExpress]
Telephoto Lenses:
- Canon Zoom Lens EF-M 55-200 mm 1: 4.5-6.3 IS STM [2014, 2 colors, AliExpress]
Important: using an adapter Canon mount adapter EF-EOS M any lens can be mounted Canon EF, Canon EF-S on cameras with EF-M mount.
+ autofocus lenses from third-party manufacturers:
- Tamron 18-200 / 3.5-6.3
- Sigma 16 / 1.4 | Sigma 30 / 1.4 | Sigma 56 / 1.4
- Viltrox 23 / 1.4 | Viltrox 33 / 1.4 | Viltrox 56 / 1.4
- TTArtisan 32 / 2.8
The choice is not very large. It is also very important that the lenses under Ef-m very few (exact list here), which limits the further upgrade of these cameras.
List of all mirrorless cameras with Canon RF mount
- Canon EOS [September 2018, NO IBIS.30MP AliExpress]
- Canon EOS Ra [November 2019, NO IBIS, 30MP]
- Canon EOSRP [February 2019, NO IBIS.26MP AliExpress]
- Canon EOS-R3 [April 2021, IBIS.24MP AliExpress]
- Canon EOS-R5 [July 2020, IBIS.45MP AliExpress]
- Canon EOS R5C [January 2022, NO IBIS, 45MP]
- Canon EOS-R6 [July 2020, IBIS.20MP AliExpress]
- Canon EOS R6 MARK II [November 2022, IBIS, 24MP]
- Canon EOS-R8 [February 2023, NO IBIS, 24MP]
Mirror or mirrorless?
The exact and correct answer does not yet exist. In each case, the answer may be different.
Full frame or crop?
In each case, the answer may be different. In the general case, full-frame cameras are considered better.
Conclusions
- a great option for an amateur cropped DSLR camera Canon EOS 850D
- a great option for the advanced amateur cropped DSLR camera Canon EOS 90D
- a great option for the advanced amateur full-frame Canon EOS 6D Mark II DSLR camera
All prices for Canon cameras (body or Kit) you can see here. Or maybe someone will like Nikon - you can find recommendations on choosing a Nikon camera here.
I don’t understand anything and I was lost in the choice!
Just tell me the budget that you are willing to spend on the camera and the purpose of buying the camera (what you will shoot for and in what) in the comments and they will tell you the best option. Anyway, ask any of your questions in the comments under this article (the site does NOT require absolutely no registration). You can consult me directly on these contacts.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Good day. Please tell me which camera to switch to canan 1100d more seriously? The segment of advanced amateur cameras is interesting, the camera is needed only for amateur shooting. Video shooting is not very important.
See the advanced camera label. 7D mark II, 80D, 70D
Hello Arkady! I beg for help in choosing the first camera. For two months I can’t choose canon eos 200d, canon eos5m, or olimpus pen pl 9. I need a compact camera for portrait and subject shooting, including evening photography and with poor lighting and close-ups. I understand that you still need a fast lens for these tasks. It is alarming that they write in reviews that canon lenses are not always well-built and flimsy.
First, choose between compactness and shooting under difficult conditions. It will be easier further
Hello. Advise. Facing a Canon 100 or 600? Shooting landscapes and children in the main room of the kindergarten (spouse educator).
There is not much difference there, but I put 100d higher in the rating than 600d because of the better work in Live View, and for beginners this is critical.
Thank you.
Please tell me: what brand and model to choose canon or nikon? We need high-quality portrait photos, macro, landscapes, the zoom function is sharp. The first camera Canon Power Shot A560, despite 7,1 megapixels and 4-optical zoom - photos with zoom are very good, but I want better. Brightly saturated sharply - the price is around 30 tr.
whichever you like, take it. There is no better worse
Tell me, and the sony cuber shot dsc-hx 400 is probably worse in photo quality than a similar nikon. In sony with max quality photos cut eyes look unnatural. And is night shooting worse?
Forget about soap dishes.
Why is this so?
Hello Arkady!
I'm starting to get involved in photography, although there is little experience.
Wanted to ask for advice: Canon M5 \ M6 \ M50 or D200?
In general, there is really not enough information on mirrorless cameras: how good are they in comparison with DSLRs of the same price range?
Question 2: I also really like the Fujifilm X-T20 visually and according to reviews. But, as practice has shown, I am a “canonist” at heart and I am afraid that another camera will discourage the desire to photograph .. Is it worth experimenting ?. In general, I would like to hear a few words about the X-T20 in general and in comparison with the aforementioned Canon's.
If you are a photographer at heart, a good camera will not beat off a desire to shoot.
A hint that "fujik" is still the best of the given list ???
But I would still like to understand who is better in the picture: Canon M5 \ M6 \ M50 or D200?
You are comparing the incomparable. D200 can be bought for pennies at flea markets. But the canon or fuji listed by you is more expensive. Under D200, you can find screwdriver glasses on a flea market in fair condition, but good windows for Canon and especially for Fuji will cost significantly more.
This is a completely different budget - to choose from the remaining barely living D200 and select glasses for it, or just go to the store and buy, let Fujik and Fujifilm XF 16-55mm f / 2.8 R.
I now have X100T and I am looking at X-T3. But damn it is expensive - for its price you can buy a new D750. However, on Fujiki, on X100F, X100T, and for example the same X-T2 / X-T3 camera jpg is such that you can immediately shoot only in it. Without shooting in RAW at all and forgetting about processing. You just need to dig deeper with the settings and constantly monitor the exposure meter. The color is immediately normal. Skinton is great. It's hard to find fault with something.
I ask for enlightenment, my crap. Not a D200. And 200D !!!
The price segment plus or minus is the same for the 200D and the M5 \ M50.
So the question is relevant: which is better: 200D mirror or mirrorless M5 \ M6 \ M50 ????
I don't have glasses yet, so this is not an argument. I like the idea of mirrorless cameras, that the picture is immediately visible “as it will be”, but isn't it a loss in quality ?!
What quality? Images? There are no losses there. Focus? Yes it will be worse
Tell us a little more?
200D, it turns out, it focuses faster through the mirror than mirrorless mirrors?
Yes, phase focusing is faster and works better in low light conditions. The M50 only has contrast autofocus - it is very slow. The M5 will work (probably) quickly enough in good lighting, but it will still yield to the 200D in some situations. mirrorless cameras traditionally lose to SLR cameras in autofocus operation, and there is only one price segment)
Does your answer give the impression that the M5 and M50 have different tricks? You can learn more about how they differ. And then I thought that autofocusing was just accelerated in the M50…. But it turns out they removed something and it got worse ?!
Good answer! I shoot on Canon and Fujifilm, and I like everything. :)
Good evening, Arkady. Please advise from which cameras of the Kenon lineup to choose a camera for portraiture in the interior. I got a gray roll background and buy two more flashes (choose) with umbrellas. Moisture resistance and other bells and whistles are not needed. Photos will be processed in Photoshop (background replacement) for A4 format (21-30cm). Maybe not a canon to take? 50 1,8 lens is suitable or what do you recommend?
There is no such thing as a “portrait camera”. For studio shooting, you can do with old models, the level is better than advanced, for convenient control, you should start with models 50D, 60D and so on.
Hello! Tell me, does the Canon 7D and 7D Mark have one model? If not, then what is the fundamental difference. Thank you in advance.
after the 7D came the 7D Mark II, sometimes the first model is called the 7D Mark I. But simply '7D Mark' is not customary to write and this, in fact, does not mean anything.
Good day, tell me if the technology allows the thought of a pixel to receive confirmation of autofocus when using manual optics (Helios, Industrial, etc.)?
* dual pixel *
no, at least where I saw
Arkady, tell me whether it is possible to use 1100mm35 sigma optics for the Canon 1,4D? Newborn shooting. Thank you.
Yes, you can
Arkady, good afternoon. Please tell me, I am a beginner photographer, I choose my first camera, which advise canon 1200d, 600d, 550d? I plan to shoot exclusively people, children in the opera!) Thanks in advance for the answer!
If you have taken the path of photography, it is better to camera a level higher, such as 80D, 70D, 60D and even the old man 50D. The lens plays a big role. If you prioritize the cameras you specify from larger to smaller, then simply use the rating table in this article and is designed to answer precisely such questions: 650D-> 550-> 1200D
Good evening! I'm starting to shoot, I was before choosing a new canon 350D, I am choosing a camera for landscapes, portrait, and children photography, mostly street, and night photography is not excluded ... Advise you to choose between the models: Canon EOS 80D; EOS 800D; EOS 77D; EOS 7D Mark2
<, or maybe something completely different is needed ... Thank you for your help in choosing!)
EOS 7D Mark2
What's on your glass? The 7D Mark II is the flagship of the APS-C cameras, of course, awesome body, awesome autofocus, two cards, shutter speed, everything. But if your main part of your lens fleet can work at full frame, and shooting in the evening and at night is a priority, look also towards the 6D Mark II. For me, even the ancient 5D2 outperforms the 7D2 when shooting in the dark at a stop or two in ISO, and the 6D Mark II is even higher. Well, the built-in WiFi (in the 7D2 only with an adapter) and a rotary touch screen can come in handy.
80D, 77D.
Other for your tasks is not required.
Feel the difference with 350D immediately.
As option 6d, if there are corresponding FF lenses.
What can you say about the EOS 2000 D for beginners?
It is quite possible to learn on it, an ordinary entry-level DSLR, but I'm not happy with the characteristics. In fact, this is an 1100D with a larger matrix and wi-fi. Somehow insignificant for the 6 years difference. For 12K hryvnia, you can take a used 100D, or even better a 200D with a native lens. They will be more compact and faster (200 also with a rotating screen, very helpful for video). Better to spend money on an additional lens, 50 / 1.8, for example, you will immediately get a good high-aperture lens. Or 24 / 2.8 - a tiny shirik pancake. Lenses last much longer than cameras.
And in no case take a whale kit with 18-55 DC III, a terrible slow buzz without a stabilizer, it was an abomination back in the 12th year, now even more so. Only 18-55 IS / IS II / IS STM.
She has the same size as the 1100, both APS-C
Michael, who are you talking about? 2000D and 1100D are about the same. 100D and 200D are good less.
About any of the above. all have a matrix of the same size
Oh, I get it. A “larger RESOLUTION matrix”, not a size, of course.
Thank you
Hello ! Please tell me, is there a fundamental difference between the cameras 70D, 77D, 80D?
DD: 80D, 77D, 70D.
Better to take 80D. More modern interesting matrix than the previous ones. Finally, a normal DD on a canon crop.
The 77D and 80D are roughly the same generation (77D is the newest), they are closer together inside and have their own minor advantages and disadvantages. The same 24MP sensor (a dubious advantage) compared to 20MP in the 70D, the same focusing system (45 points versus 19 in the 70D) is already significant. 70D and 80D are the development of another line, one of the significant differences is the waterproof case. The minimum shutter speed is 1/8000 - sometimes it is necessary. The 77D has the highest working ISOs. In the 80D, the central point is able to focus at aperture 8. 6 frames per second in 77, 7 - in 70-80.
In general, there is no PRINCIPAL difference between all three. What are the tasks and selection criteria? If you're on a budget, go for the 77D - 70D. If weather resistance and reliability of the shutter is important - 70-80D. Are you planning to focus with converters for dark glasses - 80D. Just a good camera for vacation, video and night shooting - 77D.
Good afternoon!
Please tell me, now I am determined between bu: 600, 60 (it can both take 600 and 60) and 6.
What kind of Glass do you recommend. I am interested in the photo and saw the shooting.
So I realized that by fixes, this is if Canon
* Canon EF-S 24mm 1: 2.8 STM
* Canon EF 50mm F / 1.8 II
* Canon EF 50mm F / 1.8 STM
* Canon EF 40mm 1: 2.8 STM
And the zoom: 24-105 sigma or Canon or 24-70?
Or direct more severe television to watch like 180/200?
Seeds of people, cars
Thank you.
60d is better than 600D definitely. Not much, but better.
60d and 600d are cropped cameras with a small sensor. Both EF and EF-S lenses are suitable for these. 24 and 50mm is a very good start. 40mm - about nothing, I never found a use for it on the crop.
6d is a full-frame camera with a large sensor. In some way it is inferior to 60d, in some way it is superior. It is difficult to suggest something, everyone decides for himself.
Are you going to shoot cars? If in the cabin or in the whole, then the desired lenses are wider. If at the races, then televisions and faster.
Roman, thanks for responding.
I wanted to get it like this: canon 60d and then in the future if things go well 6d should be bought for it. On lenses I thought so:
1) EF 28-70 / 2.8L with 50 / 1.4
2) Canon EF 24-105 / 4 and 50 / 1.8
The wife also wants to do subject shooting (various food, accessories, etc.)
In it, as I understand it, the constant light source, diffuser and reflector is important
People (studio, street photography and weddings)
Machines are mainly outside and video reviews on YouTube
I select the equipment, as they say the golden mean I want to find. To ensure that all the money worked out to the maximum.
Please tell me about this set and / or from you suggestions to hear on the optimal equipment.
Do I need a separate lens in this case for macro photography?
28-70 / 2.8L - advice, be careful when buying.
At the lens, one group of lenses becomes cloudy in the middle and cannot be restored / repaired. The lens is elderly and was not bought for a sideboard, so there are few living and especially in good condition. In the museum state, the units are almost like the 24-70 / 2.8L of the first series, which also have a constructive jamb ..
I don’t know from 28-70, if a person says that he is deteriorating, then it is better to listen.
50 / 1.8STM in sharpness, blur and focusing no worse than 50 / 1.4 without wild fringing. When they say now: “well, 1.4 can be covered,” the question arises - why take it then?
The ideal crop support is 17-55 / 2.8. But this is just for the crop. Shiriki also makes sense to take only for the crop. 16-35 or 17-40 are not the best staffs. Here are 50 / 1.8, 85 / 1.8, 70-200 / 4, 80-200 / 2.8, 135/2, 135 / 2.8 - these are already universal lenses.
Look towards the EF-S 35 / 2.8IS STM. Quite an interesting fix, and a new one - 18th year and quite cheap. This is a fix for crop, but with macro and stabilization, in terms of focal length it will be a good staff, and both video and sharp portraits with some kind of blurring (2.8 after all) will suit my wife. Plus there is a backlight for macro.
The fifty is good for portraits, but on the crop there is a maximum of front-waist, in the room it is cramped with it. 85 / 1.8 is very good, quickly focuses (faster than 85 / 1.2), inexpensive, but also for outdoor portraits.
24-105 and 28-70 are not the best set of focal points on the crop. You can, of course, but a wide angle will always be missed. Usually, if you start with a crop, they take a good crop zoom to it. They are determined with the most commonly used focal lengths and then, when buying a full frame, they take fixes of the corresponding focal lengths (well, in equivalent, if you shoot a lot at 50 - 80mm, 30 - 50, etc.)
Take 17-55 / 2.8IS USM, you will not regret it. And a set of macro rings. Studio, portrait, cars outside and no macro you will have. Blur too. Video from a tripod and with a remote microphone, too (although the glass itself is quiet). Then look what is missing and you will choose from the available options.
https://kenrockwell.com/canon/lenses/50mm-f14.htm
There are no lateral color fringes, even on the 21MP Canon 5D Mark II.
I'm extremely happy for Ken, but I had the opportunity to compare 1.4, 1.8II and 1.8 STM. 1.4 chromatites harder, especially on crop. It is softer in the open, less sharp throughout the field (it aligns somewhere in 5.6-8, while STM is already quite good at 2.8). It is comparable in speed to STM (1.8II is much slower than both and the noisiest).
As a result, he kept STM for himself, gave 1.8II to his father as the cheapest, and refused 1.4. If we already take, then 1.2L. Well, or wait for Canon to give birth to 50 / 1.4IS (and judging by how the fans of Canon shout and how even Tokin is climbing into this niche - it's high time). 1.4 is good glass, but even if glasses of a lower class are already stepping on his heels ...
Some have fringes, some don't have fringes ... In any case, it doesn't smell like “wildness” here. Complaints about fringes on photo sites are mostly related to weak crops.
Well, I'm sorry, not everyone is allowed to use 5DClassic.
And the point is that with an overpayment of two to three times the dry residue remains a half-stop of aperture and a slightly softer bokeh at the cost of a significantly softer picture. And if for normal DOF you also have to shrink to 2.8, there is no sense at all.
The point is that these are optics of different levels. The picture of all canons 1.8 is not just rough - I would say that even on close to open it is on the verge of rough. What is good for 35 mm is not good for 50. By the way, they write about fringing 1.8 at least as often as about 1.4. By the same author, note, the 1.8 grade is formulated somewhat differently: There are no visible lateral color fringes at 22MP full-frame, even without a lens profile. https://kenrockwell.com/canon/lenses/50mm-f18-stm.htm
This is not called “hard,” but “unsharp”. Because 50 / 1.4 is inferior in sharpness, especially around the edge. 1.2L is even "softer" if you go into such definitions with sharper angles.
1.8STM is a modernized glass with an improved aperture, autofocus drive and coating, 1.4 is an old one that needs replacement for a long time, with dubious advantages.
Ken Rockwell's opinion of me personally on the drum, if I can compare the result with my own eyes. 1.4 chromatite is greater than 1.8STM.
Here is just a discussion of the rumor about the new RF 50 1.8 IS USM:
“EF50 / 1.4 is too good… for what?
It's a great lens for bokeh, it is affordable (if not cheap), and it's small. But it has terrible chromatic aberration, it's a bit noisy, has slow-ish autofocus, it isn't in the same league as Canon's new large aperture primes for sharpness, and it the AF mechanism can get stuck. "
Almost word for word my claim. Well, fringing was not confused with fringing, and that’s good, right?
Although what's the point. Recently, a lover in the FB told me something about the 50 / 1.4 COLOR that she felt right in the store. Also some kind of esotericism. Here at 1.8 it is NOT SUCH. For 9 thousand, of course, transfers more than 3.
And 1.4 is needed in order to turn out to shoot animals and children in a cramped dark room. Why not worry about the best lighting, when it comes to professional photography, I still do not understand. And how, again, to achieve a normal depth of field of 1.4 if children and animals are constantly moving. Esoteric is such an esoteric.
There is no need to leave the topic of “wild frigging” at 50 \ 1.4. I have already given a diagram on this site, from which it is clear that at no FF at any aperture of 50 \ 1.4 does not cross the border of “low” HA towards “medium”. https://www.lenstip.com/216.5-Lens_review-Canon_EF_50_mm_f_1.4_USM_Chromatic_aberration.html
At 1.4 crops it really goes slightly - so this is not for a crop lens. Yes, the situation is better at 50 \ 1.8 with HA. This does not at all lead to considerations about a non-working 1.4 and a double or triple overpayment for the same quality.
The question is whether to take the 60D with 1.4 or 1.8. The answer is that there is no point in 1.4, 1.4 is strongly chromatite and not sharp enough for 1.4 (seen personally) to pay so much more for it. Not non-working, not bad, but not enough (doubtfully) worse for its price. Go through the woods, nausea, with your diagrams.
Do you feel any discomfort from the fact that in the singular on this site you use the phrases “photo-fucking”, “faking”, “sick”, “nausea” and so on? - Looks like no. Rather, the opposite is true. Was it said about “wild frigging”? - It was. We do not want to be responsible for the said nonsense. To ignore such speakers ...
You yourself are not tired of walking on my heels and clinging to every word? I do not live on reviews and do not take pictures “leisurely and for the soul”, enjoying the color of the existing junk and protecting the lenses that you have, as the honor of an abused girl. A specific question is asked, I give a specific answer to it for reasons of price and practicality for the specific situation of the questioner and my own experience. There is nothing to do - hold the camera and go take pictures, it will be more useful.
Canon 50 / 1.8 STM is considered a balanced solution, more balanced than 50 / 1.4. And users Andrei T. has already defended 50 / 1.4 many times in the comments, therefore, most likely he will continue to do this, this is a normal state of things
It looks like the gossiped 50 / 1.4IS won't see the light of day even for the RF mount, let alone the EF. That leaves the stabilized Tamron 45 and the unstabilized sigma. Well, further along the growing price tag from Tokina Opera to 50 / 1.2L (well, for fans - 1.0L for 100 UAH, I recently came across OLX). It's bad that there is nothing else in the middle segment. We'll have to leave the 000 / 50 working half, and look at the 1.8 / 35IS as a small stabilized staff. 2 smaller, of course. but at night he is missing. And I want to go out light, with a lens on the device, and the second one in my jacket pocket. By this criterion, the choice is not very good :)
Hello, I can not decide on the choice of the first DSLR (boo), in the future I plan to seriously engage in photography. Do you think it’s too early to buy models like the canon 60d with a 50mm 1.8 lens, or is it worth trying something like a canon 550 d, 700d with a whale lens first? Thank you in advance!
60d and 600d are not fundamentally different. Moisture-proof and 9 cross-shaped focus points (together one) plus a little more speed in serial shooting.
50 / 1.8 is a good lens for a portrait, but not suitable as the only one on the crop. Take a whale, you will not lose, then get a fifty dollars with the next lens (well, or a telephoto, usually it is not enough, it all depends on what you shoot more often).
It's hard to say from the camera. The carcass is usually changed more often than lenses and they become obsolete earlier. You will still find application for the 50 / 1.8 87th year of production, unlike the first film carcass.
Good afternoon, Arkady. Please answer whether the cameras CANON EOS 80D kit 18-200 are comparable and
NIKON D7500 KIT 18-200 VR II. Which is preferable. Nikon cameras aren’t familiar to me. Thank you in advance.
80D is better to compare not with d7500, but d7200.
The 7500 is no better than the 7200. The d7200 is the first among the Nikon and Canon cameras. Paradoxically, the 7200 can be found noticeably cheaper than the 7500.
If you used to work for Canon and are used to raw converter and there are lenses and there is a habit of working with these cameras, then do not fool and take 80d. If there are no habits, then 7200 is more interesting.
Hello. Interested in this question: is it reasonable today to buy a device such as 10D or 20D? Or is it better to take a closer look at newer entry-level DSLRs (like the 1100D)? Megapixels, in principle, are not so important - 6, 8 or 10. There is an opportunity to buy a 10D in almost perfect condition with a mileage of 12000 for 1100 UAH with all the accessories. Personally, I'm more inclined towards the 10D option. What do you think?
Will the lens be in the kit at least some or pure carcass?
In principle, you can shoot on it and everything will be plus or minus in the same way as on the 1100D. Of the potential problems:
- terrible display. What you see on it will greatly differ from what is on the matrix. You can not even count on the correct white balance.
- batteries - this fotik is clearly many years old, it is not known how much the batteries are alive. Although the new one, in theory, can still be found, and analogs are being produced. There BP-511, they were installed up to 5D.
- CompactFlash as a card - but it is available.
With a bunch of limitations, but enough to learn. For that amount all the more. If the desire doesn’t take away, buy yourself a normal carcass later.
Thanks for the answer. Yes, this 10D is "loaded" with the Canon EF 35-80mm III f4-5.6, a 512MB flash drive, a card reader, a bag, a strap and a battery. So I think the kit will do for a start.
Better to look for 20D. The 10 has one unpleasant feature - only EF lenses, 20 is omnivorous.
Help!
I choose between the Canon EOS 800D EF-S 18-55 IS STM Kit and
Canon EOS 750D Kit 18-135 IS STM Black.
I don’t understand anything in photo business, but I’m learning everything fast))
Need a good machine to start +
great photos of nature, household in the bosom of nature / home.
I would be grateful for any advice.
From 18-135 will be preferable.
Thank !!
Hello! Please help me choose a camera and most importantly, a lens. The shooting is mainly nature, a little city, sunsets, sunrises, the night sky (quite a lot), people rarely (mostly as part of the landscape). Soap dishes are not enough already, especially at night. Will be bought B. at. body. better buy a cheaper camera, and a better lens. The challenge is to learn how to use the opportunities and in the future go to the full frame
Samyang 14mm 2,8. Bayonet to choose from.
Thanks! Often I see this name in astrophoto. Is he normal during the day? Can it be left for the full frame, for the future?
I read a review from Arkady. It will not work properly with crop (((
How did you decide? It will work with crop as well as with FF, only on crop it will already have a viewing angle of 1,5 times, a super-wide will be obtained from super-wide.
Thanks! I will consider
A good full-frame lens will not show itself fully in crop, especially for the wide-angle. Therefore, if we want full quality, then we take normal crop glass for crop and normal FF glass for FF.
I would take a Tamron 10-24 SP for your purposes - it has a stabilizer and will give almost Samyang angle on the crop (16 mm versus 14), and at the far end 24 mm - a very good universal focal length for most outdoor shots or tight spaces. Even portraits can be shot with a certain skill (also with some kind of blur, albeit at 4.5 aperture).
Well, or a native Canon lens, 10-24, though without a stub.
You can also use the native Canon 10-18, it is already with a stub, albeit darker, very small and light and quite decent for your money, but it will already be purely wide - the sky, landscapes and all that, not so universal.
Thanks! That's for sure, you know less, you sleep better))) a friend of a friend advises Tamron 17-50 2.8. Type as the first lens
Norm option, good optics, flimsy mechanics. You have to choose, but inexpensive
17-50, 17-55, 18-55, even 15-85 - a universal lens for crop. You can shoot a landscape on it (not very wide) and work well with a person - from a full-length portrait to close-ups. If you need architecture, sunsets, sunrises and everything else that you have listed may not be enough.
In a good way, it would be worth trying to take pictures with a whale, ask a friend for a day for a fotik, or take pictures under his supervision. Well, or on your soap dish, look at the crop factor and focal factors, which were most often filmed. It was unlikely that there was, of course, an ultra-wide angle, but you never know.
Unfortunately, there are no familiar photographers, I would have squeezed out some info)) focal on a soap dish 5.5mm, f from a mobile 3.17. Thanks for answers! I'll think
If you have a soap dish with a matrix of 1 / 2,3 (crop approx. = 6), then EGF 5,5mm = 33mm, on crop 1,5 it is 22mm. Those. starting with the banal whale 18-55, ending with Pts. expensive 24 / 2,8, etc. Or full-frame zoom 17-35.
Thanks! Yes, such a soap box. Here, now I have an idea. I read articles here, I begin to understand what and why. Interesting
Hello. Help with choosing a camera. I have no experience or addiction to a certain company. In the wild youth he was quite fond of photography (Zenit ET and Amateur 166). From the zenith, optics remained in perfect condition. Jupiter 37, Helios 44, Industar 50-2. I plan to use this optics. For the past 20 years I have been photographing mainly with digital mirrorless cameras and a telephone. Very often in manual mode, so the skills and memory of the basics are still alive.
Intended use of the camera.
1. Housing family photos. Group, portrait.
2. Photos in open spaces (cottage, sea, forest)
3. Rare photos in large rooms (mainly in cultural houses) with a distance to the object from 10 to 50 m. Both with and without flash.
4. Video filming in the same place. Sometimes up to 2 hours: tripod, fixed position. Here I have big doubts about the capabilities of the camera. Often in the ads I see “the video was not filmed”. Why?
5. Plus, I want to try my hand at art photography. Echoes of youth.
The ability to work with multiple flashes and connect an external microphone is very desirable.
After a long study of the recommendations of your site, the choice, taking into account your own financial capabilities, fell on the following used models:
canon eos 600d,
canon eos 100d,
canon eos 1200d,
Nikon d5100.
All in a whale configuration, in approximately the same price segment.
Which of my chosen ones, or something completely different for my purposes, would you recommend? I will be very grateful for getting rid of the pain of choice.
And here are a couple more questions on the video. The Canon manual says that the video size is limited to 4GB (as I understand it, the FS FAT32 limit). After reaching the threshold value of the file size, if the recording has not been stopped, the next file is written immediately. About the time limits for the camera in the video recording mode, the danger to the sensor, etc. - nothing is said.
The Nikon manual only talks about limiting video to file size. Details of what will happen after reaching 4 GB are omitted. Where can I find out the details?
Do cameras work with other file systems: NTFS, EXT3, 4, etc.?
The remaining Helios can be used for Canon, but not for Nikon (only dances with tambourines)
According to claim 4. the ads mean that the mileage is not large (when indicated), that the camera was not used much.
Michael, thanks for the clarification about optics. In my subjective rating of the three canons. EOS 600d wins. Two reasons:
1. Folding screen. Whatever one may do when shooting a video - a necessary thing
2. Support Magic Lantern https://builds.magiclantern.fm/features.html
As a result, I took what I did not consider at all - Sony SLT-A65
Good day! I re-read the article many times. thanks! I read reviews on cameras.
but still I cannot but ask my question to a specialist. My goal is to photograph mobile children for myself, home holidays in the apartment and outdoors, travel, nature. I would like to be able to shoot video. Financially I will pull a camera with a whale lens only. I will be very grateful for the recommendation of the model. Thank you!
The plate in the article, especially for you
Please tell me, I choose a camera with a moisture-proof housing, but there is very little choice, is it worth paying attention to this function?
If you often shoot in the rain or snow, or just in cold, damp weather, where you are supposed to enter a warm room (for warming up) and go outside - in the cold, then, yes, you should pay attention.
Lenses then also need to be selected with moisture protection, and there are not many of them.
Thank you!
It depends on what and how exactly you will shoot and how often you will need to shoot in difficult conditions.