Every day on the website of Radozhiv they ask me how to check the SLR camera and lens when buying, especially when buying a used one. photographic equipment. Digital cameras are complex devices and it is simply not possible to check all the functionality of the camera “quickly” when buying.
Checking the camera. In this figure, the insides of the Nikon D700
Often, the difficulty of verification lies in the fact that there is neither time nor appropriate funds for full testing in the store. Therefore, I advise you to perform a basic check in the store, and a more detailed one at home. For example, in Ukraine, you can return the goods without any problems within 14 days. You just need to save all the papers and boxes, and within 14 days of using the camera, any 'critical bug' will appear on its own.
Recommendations for the purchase:
- If this is a new camera, be sure to check what warranty comes with it. Usually there is a guarantee from a seller and an official guarantee from the manufacturer. I recommend the equipment with an official guarantee. You can see what the Nikon or Canon 'official coupon' looks like on the Internet, however, according to the official warranty, in the event of any malfunction or malfunction, the repair will have to be carried out at the manufacturer's service center. Service centers are not available in all cities; in small cities, at best, there will be a “reception point” that will send the equipment to the nearest large city, but not the repair shop itself.
- Next, you just need to inspect the appearance of the camera, the new camera should be absolutely clean, like jewelry, without any scratches. Most importantly, look at the battery, it usually has a sticker with the manufacturer's hologram on it. Often, instead of a native battery, they slip in cheap Chinese batteries. However, lately modern cameras have good protection against “non-native” batteries. In most cases the warranty does not cover the battery as the battery can wear out. The battery has the property of 'dying' and the service center will not change it under warranty. It is not so easy to check the battery, for this you need to completely discharge it while shooting and then charge it.
- If this is a used camera. - then you need to pay attention to the anti-slip rubber bands on the case, they usually swell and peel off, and on the screws, they must be clean, otherwise there is a risk that the camera was disassembled, which means that everything may not be all right with it. Usually, the appearance of the camera immediately shows how hard the camera has been used.
- The shutter of each SLR camera is designed for a certain number of actuations (that is, an SLR camera, or rather its shutter, can make a certain “manufacturer-guaranteed” number of shots during its life). So, amateur cameras have a limit of 100-150.000 shots, after which the shutter may break. If the camera has run more than 50.000 frames, you should think about whether you need to buy it, since it has already worked out half of its life resource. Checking the mileage of some cameras (especially Nikon cameras) is very easy - just open the last image from a RAW, NEF or JPEG camera using a special program, for example, such as ShowExif, and in the 'Total Number of Shutter Releases' field, see the number of frames taken. I don't know if the counter can be rolled back.
- Others worth checking the heart of the camera - its matrix. To do this, on a camera without a lens, with the bayonet cap on, in M mode, take several pictures with a long shutter speed, and all noise reduction functions should be disabled. The following parameters are best used: ISO 100, excerpt - 15sec. Then view the result with maximum magnification on a camera or on a computer display, while there should be no bright luminous dots-pixels. In fact, hot, broken and colored pixels can appear over time and if the camera has several of these pixels, then you don't have to bother and buy a camera. In any case, the decision is yours.
- Also, you can take several pictures of a homogeneous object at the maximum closed aperture to check the contamination of the matrix. Usually cameras are sold with standard 18-55mm lenses. With this lens, the easiest way to capture the sky is at ISO 100, f / 32, 55mm. The new camera shouldn't have any extra 'trash' in the picture. BOO. a camera usually has a whole bunch of debris on its sensor. If the matrix is heavily littered, you should think about whether such a camera is needed. Matrix cleaning is not easy and expensive.
- When checking the lens, you should pay attention so that it does not make unnecessary sounds when focusing, and the lenses are clean. Checking for back and front focus requires a separate article. I do not write about checking for back and front focus, since I know many cases where amateur photographers incorrectly checked the lens and then complained about its work. Photo enthusiasts often have a bunch of invented problems with the camera :)
- I also need to check the built-in flash. One shot with the flash is enough to make sure it works. If you only buy a 'Body' (camera without a lens), then put the camera in 'M' mode, turn on the flash by pressing the flash pop-up button (usually located on the side of the built-in flash and has a 'lightning bolt' icon) and press the shutter release. True, some cameras take their very first picture only with the 'native' lens on the camera.
My experience:
DSLRs and other cameras usually either work or don't work. If the camera has problems, then in just 1 hour of actively poking around in the menu and taking test shots, you can confidently find the problem. Usually the problem is all sorts of errors that appear on the camera's display and after which the camera stops working. Errors after shutdown may disappear and then appear again. Another pitfall may be a non-obvious problem with a sticking mirror or shutter. Typically, a mirror or shutter can stick with burst shooting and with different orientation of the camera in space. I know of cases when the camera worked fine in the vertical case, but did not work in the horizontal case at all.
SLR cameras can be crammed with a huge number of mechanical parts that can fail. You can look at my insides Nikon D700 In chapter 'Disadvantages of modern DSLR cameras'.
Conclusions:
Detailed camera checks are tricky. Not every person will be able to understand the intricacies. Therefore, I recommend to amateur photographers to 'drive the camera' as much as possible in a variety of shooting modes for several days. If after such a 'run' everything works fine, then 99% that everything is in order with the camera. It is very good if you have a friend who understands cameras and who will help you test the camera.
In the comments, you can write down your verification methods and nuances that you have encountered in life - help others not to step on the same rake. Thanks for attention. Arkady Shapoval.
I don't see any point in buying a used camera. Today the cost of even a new FX camera (Nikon D600, Canon 5D MarkII ...) is comparable to the cost of a good mountain bike, but only some 5-8 years ago everything was much "sadder". And such cameras as D7000, D7100 and their Canon classmates generally fell in price.
Not everyone has funds for a good mountain bike.
You are mistaken, at the height of the crisis of the end of 2008, I took a new Nikon D40 in the store for only 200-220 bucks. Now this is not, alas. Everything is significantly more expensive.
Nikon D600 costs 2 pieces of greenery - where is the general availability? I generally keep quiet about the fifth Mark and D800 - they are more expensive.
A good mountain bike (new) can be easily taken for $ 800, and used even less (300-500). IMHO.
And I, for example, do not see any point in buying a new one :) in 2-3 years the digital camera will become obsolete. Besides, if we are talking about amateur cameras, then the probability that they were “bombed” is extremely small. Usually they are removed by amateurs, and they do not kill the shutter much.
Here is Nikon D200 on ebay you can get for 8-10 thousand. This is a decent camera. If you know how to photograph, you will shoot masterpieces of your level with it. If you don't know how, then D3 won't help you either. Therefore, it makes no sense to pay 4-5 times more for d7000. I have a d50 and I have enough of it for my eyes, but I want the d200 to measure on old lenses and some functions are not in the menu, but on the switches.
At the same time, of course, a professional who makes money from photography should have the best and most expensive equipment, because it is a working tool and affects the development of business.
Expensive equipment affects the quality of filming. Business development is influenced by completely different factors.
Denis, some people have a salary of 15-20 thousand in rubles, count, cool, right? Mark 2? Yes, some Canon 1100D buy on credit. And I want to develop. For such people, the author of the site writes articles and spends his time. And you say Mark2.
It’s better to buy and shoot on an old camera today than save on D4 and 1DX. Of course, if you take prof. photographers, then everything is different :)
I don’t see any reason to buy a new camera for a new student in photo-making.
The price of the new d3100 is about 14 thousand, used shnoy - 8,5-12, on average, you can find it for 11 thousand rubles with a range of 5-12 thousand frames (which is not a run for a camera at all).
The price of the new NikonD90kit is about 25 thousand, from the hands (with a run from 5 to 20 thousand) - you can find from 13 to 16 thousand.
At the same time, most cameras are MORE than in a normal state (they did not really use them), since the secondary market of initial and advanced amateur DSLRs is formed just by “lovers of buying new, and then suddenly discovering that the DSLR also needs hands, and it weighs not like an iPhone ”but not“ camera shooters ”at all. And their cars are practically new.
For comparison - I have two acquaintances who bought Nikon D5100 in the store “because I want a new one without marriage”. For almost a YEAR that has passed since the purchase, I never saw any sane photos from them, and indeed a photo in general.
And another friend, whom we found “stored on the shelf”, D40 (with a range of 30 thousand frames) for some 5500 rubles, plus 50 / 1,8g taken from the hands, also for 5500 rubles (from a girl who decided that she had unsuccessful pictures precisely because of the lens and wants to itself 50 / 1,4). Plus "data for unlimited use 18-105" and China-pyha with TTL.
And for 4 (!) Past months the girl already has her own photo-group, quite suitable and high-quality photos for a beginner, and even the first earnings thereof. At the same time, about 12 thousand were spent, with all sorts of consumables (which is more than a tangible amount for her, yesterday's student in a provincial city) and a person who removes is received at the exit, and has a quite good set for this, judging by the results.
Here is a really good comment with good examples! Essentially a great addition to the article :)
Have you ever thought before writing such nonsense ?!
Not everyone has such means. If it’s a penny for you, can you have a chance?
Denis, not everyone can even afford a camera like the D7000, not to mention the FX format. Therefore, you have to buy second-hand options. Anyway, why if used is so bad? You can buy a used camera and enjoy its work for many years. I think that Arkady well done, helps people not step on other people's rake. Arkady thanks for the article.
Hello! I will describe my recent purchase experience, the first time I used the FF camera, the most important thing is to calm down and tune in to a serious analysis, do not boil))) ask the seller to shut up))) and carefully inspect everything, the case is scratched, chipped, cracked, worn, scratched on the case screws , contacts presence, oxidation of stains, I recommend taking a small LED flashlight so that you can use it to look into the battery compartment of the connectors, inside the camera, if the case is excellent, go to all the rocker buttons, everything should work perfectly without sticking and crunching, including turn off the camera, then pull out the memory card, let the battery lie down for a couple of three minutes, then run everything to look at the screen and the additional screen if there is, it is desirable that there are no dust and stains under them, then we photograph for hot dead pixels, it is desirable to check the number of frames take your laptop with you, take a flash if there is, to check the contacts in the shoe, if there is a motor in the carcass, a lens without a motor, to check how the camera rotates and drive the electric motor, let it buzz))) then check the mirrors oh, matrix, if there is a video, shoot a video, see how it is displayed, if there are any artful artifacts in the image. Be friendly but persistent, listen to yourself and if you are embarrassed by something voiced, look at the seller’s reaction, if there is an alarm that something is wrong with the device, do not persuade yourself to refuse, there are a lot of offers on the market, it’s advisable to read before buying instructions for the device, well, so that they themselves could climb the menu, etc., and not the seller showed you everything, he can bypass the problem areas, well, the best option for such an acquisition is to go with a friend who knows about photographic equipment and he he who understands the shooting, says about the new technique I will not; this is an ideal option. Good luck I hope someone comes in handy, sorry for the long post .. Thanks to Arkady for an interesting blog I read with pleasure.
And thank you for the good advice. I've forgotten to mention the motor and video in the article.
Sergey, so you bought a camera after all? And what, if not secret?
Sergei, about checking the mirror, probably not everyone will be able to do this, but everything else to the point. I bought a Canon 7D in Krasnodar, I also looked closely, watched and twisted. I looked at everything, asked to check for broken pixels, I did not take the laptop, they took a picture and the card was inserted into a store computer, they allowed it without any problems, in the end - 5 red dots, refused, went to another store of this company (for some reason they have 7D one copy each in stock), they checked it - everything is clean, Hurray, I bought it. By the way, in the M-VIDEO store, a check for broken pixels on their computer costs 900 rubles. Together with the camera, I bought a Canon 430EX flash, everything is fine, it works, at home I found that the instructions are in English, there is no Russian, of the most understandable there is only Polish. I downloaded it on the Internet in Russian without any problems.
The camera was, incidentally, completely new.
Dear Sergey!
I read your post ".. well, and the best option for such an acquisition is to go with a familiar person who understands photography equipment and has an understanding of shooting ..". It will become relevant for me next month. I have a simple request: would you deign to act as an expert in photography? My choice is NIKON D90 KIT 18-200VR II. Of course I will be grateful to you.
Best regards,
Alexandrov Sergey Alexandrovich
8-925-208-21-64
It was a sad experience, but thank God the camera did not disappoint.
I bought a not-so-native booster for the camera, with which an extremely and extremely Chinese battery came to boot.
So this battery, when it sat down, made the camera glitch, hang, even the pictures were halved, normal from above, and from below, exactly in half, another color or even a dull white background. After the "whims" it turned off altogether and did not react in any way. After I stopped using it, the camera felt great. Apparently she did not like the alien battery, she will have to buy a normal second battery)))
Py.Sy. Along the way, my D300 really justifies its popular name "armor-piercing", that even in such cases it just "swears" and continues to work)))
Even with “normal” Chinese batteries, even on old cameras, on the same d300, problems may arise when the battery charge goes to zero. Very often, when the battery is discharged, a mirror can stick on Nikons. This is due to the fact that on many cameras the mechanism of the diaphragm and mirror striker is mechanically connected, and the striker requires a colossal amount of energy and with a weakened battery, the mechanism does not work completely, leaving the mirror in a raised state. I observed this effect on all cameras from d1 to d3. Perhaps only the new line d4, 800, 600, 7100, 5200 does not suffer from "sticking", since it is stipulated that the mirror and the diaphragm are controlled by different mechanisms. This innovation was most likely made due to video shooting, now the d4 and d800 can control the aperture when recording video.
... and no one will say a word or deed about the SIGMA SD-15. Do you have any experience? Curious camera!
What does the SD-15 have to do with this article?
We have a strange situation with the secondary market of photographic equipment in Moscow. Or I came across that all the time. If the laws of commerce such as “price = new - 30%” still work with glasses, then carcasses and whales on Avito are priced at $ 20-30 cheaper than you can buy in ten online stores to choose from, with delivery tomorrow. In such a situation, it makes no sense to take risks and buy used equipment.
In general, when I am faced with a choice, having a certain amount, I prefer to buy a new device, even if its characteristics are weaker than that of the BU for this money. It is not known what has passed.
In Ukraine, a similar situation - if a used carcass is in normal condition, then the price is almost like a new one, and if everything is glued, worn with scratches and chips, then about 50-60% of the cost of a new one (I mean photographic equipment that is sold with documents ...)
This situation with prices touches me too. But who is stopping us from bargaining? Not the fact that they sell photographic equipment at such prices.
The other day I saw d80 with mileage 95k! The price is the same as with mileage 15-20k
probably after repair, since the D80 has a massive factory defect in the shutter mechanism
Arkadits, thanks for the article, I think it will be useful for everyone to read the purchase of the camera, so as not to lose sight of any trifle in anticipation of the purchase!
I apologize for the mistake, Arkady. I wrote from the phone.
Everyone decides for himself which option to prefer. I am more willing to buy a 2-3-year-old car in which all the diseases have already got out and eliminated under warranty. Its mileage is trifling, and the price below is very significant.
I bought my D5100 body a year ago three months old, with a mileage of less than a thousand operations and in perfect cosmetic condition, with a valid guarantee for $ 370. So why doesn't that make sense? ))))
I wrote that it makes no sense to buy used DSLRs because they in the secondary market practically do not differ from the new ones in price. There are happy exceptions when, for example, a girl wants to quickly get rid of an unnecessary gift or someone dumps a clearly stolen equipment. But the first case is rare, and the second is better not to mess with.
PS With cars, too, is not unique. At least I don’t know a single person who used to drive a bu, then bought a new one in the cabin and the next one wanted a bu car. Usually there is no turning back.
Why buy a new car when in the first year it loses 20% of the price. Always better than a year old ..
Sorry for the offtopic, but fuck like this promise is already tired! Well, who buys a new car for a year ??? Show me such an idiot. Unless the majors. But they take major cars to merge them immediately as something newer comes out. And how many of those majors? ..
And ordinary people at least get a factory warranty. 2-5 years old. And if an ordinary car is sold for a year, it means something is not clean there, all sorts of excuses like money are very necessary, they should cause only suspicion.
+1, and I also noticed that hull insurance for a car under 1 year is cheaper than from 1 to 2 years and from 2 to 3
I also recently bought a used camera.
It would seem that I checked everything, but, damn it, I already found a jamb at home. One of the two wheels worked incorrectly, namely the one under the thumb. In short, now upset, the repair is from 2500 to 5000. So far I have scored
I would also add - when buying, you need to check the USB connector - connect it with a wire and merge the photos to a computer. Otherwise, it is not always correct to pull the card, especially if it is Compact Flash.
I will also share my experience. I really wanted the Canon EOS 50D, but we have them expensive and, as a rule, very worn out. On Ebay I met an acceptable used version for $ 420, and in perfect condition. Received, checked for the number of captured frames - 755! Includes a new bag, a packed belt ... Where is the catch? Hot pixels at long shutter speeds up to HUNDREDS (often happens with this particular model). Everything else is ideal. However, I was mentally prepared for the fact that for that kind of money there could be some problems. I'm happy with the camera, LR copes with dots. And yet I consider my purchase to be the greatest recklessness in my life.
I can only buy a used camera from a photographer I know personally. In all other cases - review personal items of expenditure and try to carve out for a new DSLR :))
Do you often buy DSLRs? Just the same, it is not recommended to take from photographers. The probability of extremely heavy use is higher than the roof. You can just run into a dead device with excellent appearance.
I see nothing scary when buying a used one. In an hour or two of use, you can identify almost any problem. And agreeing with the seller about a manback is as simple as that. To the seller who does not agree to a manback - obviously has something to hide. I always pay attention to the complete set in the last turn. I'm not interested in the presence of belts, cords, memory cards, eyecups and hoods - that's all there is. You can buy it at extreme places anywhere and at any time. But the condition of the glass or carcass is another conversation. Sometimes in used devices the firmware is crookedly updated by the previous owner. But you just need to know about the symptoms of a firmware glitch. Reflashing is no longer a problem. Especially if such an apparatus, due to malfunctions in normal operation, is given almost for nothing.
In the trouble-free purchase of used copies, only experience with such equipment will help. Then you will definitely already know about all the pitfalls and how to get around them.
Alexander, Yes, I bought a D700 camera
Of course, it's better to take a new DSLR, albeit a D3000, than a used D200 - it was probably used for the most not indulge. That's just in the store you can fit a slightly used ear device. and it will be lucky, if only slightly! I think you need to take relatively fresh models from a trusted store. pay attention to the frame counter and matrix contamination. and for the rest, there must be a guarantee. second-hand only if a friend gives for a box of beer - then it will go!
Then it’s better to have a used D3000 :-) The probability of its intensive use tends to zero. It is a rare case that such relatively fresh cameras are often used. Especially simple inhabitants. Because amateur photographers with experience (and professional photographers even more so) do not buy such cameras. Yes, and rarely sell. Only if you really need money or have matured to buy a cooler device (it is not clear why, but there are such unique ones). I recommend looking at the shooting mode before buying. Advanced enthusiasts who can drive the camera to death usually have a serial shooting mode. Everyday people usually don't use serial shooting. Yes, and shoot in JPEG. Although, to find a used D3000 at an adequate price - you still need to try.
Well, I may have two cameras, if you want to buy a used D300 and D200, a couple of assets and everything from -40 to -60% of the prices for new ones. Two great shots, so I went to the middle of 14-17t shots in the skin. Іncoli have enough to look at the camera, shob zzumіti, yaka її bula share up to you. And the distance went dancing with a tambourine and the steepness of the camera, to the appearance of which was a sign of being knocked out / drowning. Well, I will turn out to be a new one and will work until now.
Don't tell. For example, professional cameras are almost always in excellent condition externally (there are three wedding friends). But the shutters ... Surely after buying such a device, the shutter will have to be changed soon. A rare occasion for prof. cameras were not used up to 50 thousand. This is usually the case for successful photographers, whose business is rapidly progressing and he has the opportunity to quickly improve his fleet of equipment.
That de ix should be taken quietly by professionals :)
Infected skin buy professional crop - tse "professional", ff - tse even mega cool photographer. And on the day, not everything is so smooth, as with the photo, as well as with the technology ...
By the way, there is a lot of technology to marry off the Zakordon, and then there is a tendency to change for a new technology. Mash D300, D300s came out and also sold and copied D300s…. I think the main criteria will be professional cameras with a small run.
Full of. Weddings today, like dirt. Good or bad is another question. For half a year of using the camera, 50 thousand frames are already run (under the condition of regular work). A professional is a person earning the main occupation of his life. This does not affect his qualities as a specialist. That is, an amateur can shoot better than a professional, but at the same time he will remain an amateur only because he earns his living with the help of other skills, and photography will remain just his hobby.
I would also advise you to pay attention to the shutter button so that the focus is fixed clearly. And then when I bought my d90, I just ran into such a jamb, but I realized this only after a week of use, because Thought something was wrong in the settings. Now, with burst shooting, in the next field of the first frames, the focus flies.
Thanks Arkady for the article, I have a nikon d80 bought used on a hammer, I was terribly afraid, risked, but pah-pah cost. the camera works well, I’m not straightforward. There is one significant negative score for frames for half (as it is written in the article) but for 7.800 rubles. I think no problem, I’m just ripening for the purchase of a new camera.
Arkady, tell me please, the D700 camera shoots normally. When checking the state of the matrix according to your method, it turns out that the JPEG file captured at a shutter speed of 15 seconds. with a cap instead of the lens, a closed eyepiece, at any increase and adding brightness, the noise canceled, the frame is visible on the monitor as absolutely dark, that is, there are no dead or hot pixels, and a raw file about viewing both on the monitor and in the editor when you start adding brightness is filled with horizontal stripes with many blue and red dots.
The inclusion of noise cancers does not give any result.
Sincerely.
If you pull the picture strongly, you can get noise and stripes. But usually stripes appear very rarely.
In Picasa, these bands and noises are just twisted, I switched to View NX2 file in RAV absolutely black, only when the brightness increases more than 10 noises begin to appear, I think this is normal, as you think.
Thank you.
Picasa has a very bad habit of showing RAW “tweaked” to his liking with its auto levels.
I understand that the thing in the editor.
Nikon RAVs only View NX2 and Сapture NX2 correctly process, other programs always try to make something of their own when converting to JPEG.
Maybe you’ll do a review of the editors.
Thank you for your reviews.
There should be some sense in purchasing used cameras. For example, I really liked the Fujifilm S5 pro camera (experts know what this is about). But where can you get it, if even on eBay the price reaches $ 1600. And this is for the 2006 camera! So, after all, there is a person in Tashkent who sells it to me for some $ 400! Yes, I am well aware that at such a price for "The Legend of Color", for sure, something is wrong with it. But after turning it in my hands, looking at the test photos on my computer, I took this camera, because I know that it can’t be cheaper, even if broken pixels are found there later.
WELL DONE !!!
I took a brand new d7100 more than a month ago. I checked everything and everything was fine. Later I revealed a glitch .. If after a series of shooting, immediately start viewing and start zooming in, then the camera SOMETIMES hangs for a long time ... For some reason, it doesn't bother me much, I think it should be treated with firmware, but because does not bother, then I did not even look for the firmware about the firmware.
Maybe the whole question is that during continuous shooting, a lot of frames have accumulated in the buffer and they are written to the card. This does not happen instantly - it seems that the camera freezes.
I was probably lucky. I bought a "pig in a poke" - my D200 camera on ebay two years ago. I paid on Wednesday, the seller sent Fedex on Thursday, on Monday I already had it in my hands in Chelyabinsk. It cost $ 14000 with shipping. The camera is in perfect condition, the mileage is 15000. But I will not do this anymore.
Arkady, hello. A question. How many frames should there be on the counter of a brand new camera purchased through an online store, ideally?
Ideally 0)))
Arkady, hello and thank you for your work, very useful for a beginner.
Arkady, good afternoon. Thank you very much for such a relevant post for me. I want to buy a full-matrix camera, but I can not make a choice. At the moment I have a D 7000. For some internal feelings, I like Nikon more. But the bulk of the familiar photographers are the lucky owners of Canon. Accordingly, all my questions regarding Nikon are made with round eyes. In view of this fact, I am considering the option of buying a used Mark 2 (I’m still not pulling on a new one financially) Or is it still better to take the Nikon d600? Or advise another option.
Thanks a lot in advance!