According provided by lens Pentacon 2.8 / 135 (black, Pre-set with 15 blades) huge thanks to Igor.
![Pentacon Review 2.8/135](https://radojuva.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/pentacon-pre-set-135mm-2-8-test-2.jpg)
Pentacon Review 2.8/135
The Pentacon 2.8 / 135 is the legendary 'bokenator' lens that has been highly regarded and appreciated by some photographers for its bokeh quality. There are many modifications of this lens, for example, a newer model once visited my review - Pentacon auto 2.8 / 135 MC, and option Pentacon 2.8 / 135 with zebra rims.
![TX Pentacon 2.8 / 135](https://radojuva.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/pentacon-pre-set-135mm-2-8-main-info-2.jpg)
TX Pentacon 2.8 / 135
The version from this review is called preset (or Preset) for the ability to preset aperture. For presetting, pull the ring aperture towards the front lens and set the desired value, then release the ring into place. Using the preset, you can set only fixed values of the number F. But the aperture control ring rotates smoothly and you can set any intermediate aperture.
![Three Pentacon](https://radojuva.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/pentacon-pre-set-135mm-2-8-test-6.jpg)
Three heroes'
The preset function is very convenient, for example, if I perform a preset at F / 5.6, the aperture ring will only rotate between F / 2.8 and F / 5.6. You can focus on the full aperture of F / 2.8, then quickly transfer the value to F / 5.6 and take a picture. Exactly the same aperture control mechanism has an older brother Pentacon 4 / 200.
![Pentacon 2.8 / 135](https://radojuva.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/pentacon-pre-set-135mm-2-8-test-3.jpg)
Pentacon 2.8 / 135 when focusing on MDF
The Pentacon 2.8 / 135 is very well built, pleasant to work with and produces interesting XNUMXD photos. True, the specimen from this review is heavily shabby, has a frayed rear lens and generally does not deliver the expected 'legendary' image quality. Of the serious shortcomings of the lens, I want to highlight the fear of backlight and chromatic aberration (especially 'blooming'). The specimen in this review has weak sharpness at F / 2.8, which returns to normal at F / 4.
![Pentacon 2.8 / 135](https://radojuva.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/pentacon-pre-set-135mm-2-8-test-4.jpg)
Pentacon 2.8 / 135. Enlightenment of the front and rear lenses
The focusing ring rotates 360 degrees, focusing is nice and easy. MDF is 1.5 meters. The lens does not have multi-coating, and it seems that the front lens is not covered with any special anti-reflection layer at all, so it is best to use a lens with a hood. They sent me a Pentacon 2.8 / 135 with a metal hood that screwed into the front filter, but I shot without it to get the most out of the lens. The Pentacon 2.8 / 135 produces images with the slightly yellow-green 'bottle tint' found in many older lenses, especially those without multi-coating.
![Aperture blades](https://radojuva.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/pentacon-pre-set-135mm-2-8-test-5.jpg)
Aperture blades
How to use with modern cameras?
Lenses with mounting thread M42 (M42 X 1 / 45.5), such as the lens from this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both SLR and mirrorless), for this it is enough to choose the right adapter (adapter). You do not need to carry out any additional steps to modify the lens.
The cheapest adapters can be found at Aliexpress.com... There are adapters (adapters) with a chip that provide more convenience during shooting, usually chips are used to confirm focus and / or metering exposure, and form the correct EXIF. The chip does not affect the image quality in any way.
For some SLR cameras (for example, with the Nikon F-mount), you need to use adapters with a corrective lens, which allows you to focus correctly at all focusing distances. For any mirrorless cameras, such a lens is not needed, and the adapter is a simple decorated hollow metal tube with an appropriate mount.
For SLR cameras
- Canon: For cameras Canon EOS with bayonet mount EF / EF-S need an M42-Canon EOS adapter, such an adapter with a chip can be found herewithout chip here.
- NIKON: For cameras Nikon DX / FXas well as for cameras Fujifilm и Kodak with a Nikon F mount, you need an M42-Nikon F adapter, you can buy such an adapter without a lens and a chip here, with a lens without a chip herewith chip without lens here, with lens and chip here. Why a lens? Why chip?
- PENTAX: For Pentax cameras with K mount, you need an M42-Pentax K adapter, you can buy such an adapter here.
- SONY/MINOLTA: For cameras with a Sony / Minolta A mount, you need the M42-Sony A adapter, you can find such an adapter without a chip at this linkwith a chip at this link.
- OLYMPUS/PANASONIC/LEICA: For cameras with a 4/3 bayonet mount (not to be confused with Micro 4/3!) You need an M42-4 / 3 adapter, you can buy such an adapter here.
For mirrorless cameras
- SONY: For cameras with 'E'/'FE' mount series SonyNEX и Sony Alpha you need an adapter M42-Sony E (aka M42-Sony Nex), you can find it at this link. An autofocus adapter is also available for these cameras. Techart PRO Leica M - Sony E Autofocus Adapterwhich can be found at this link.
- OLYMPUS / PANASONIC / KODAK / XIAOMI: For cameras with a bayonet mount Micro 4/3 (Micro 4:3) you need an adapter M42-Micro 4/3, you can find it at this link.
- CANON M: For cameras with Canon EF-M mount need adapter M42-Canon M, it can be found at this link.
- CANON R and RF-S: For cameras with Canon RF mount need adapter M42-Canon R, it can be found at this link.
- Nikon 1: For cameras Nikon 1 Series need adapter M42-Nikon 1, you can find it at this link.
- Nikon Z: For cameras Nikon Z series (FX/DX) need an adapter M42-Nikon Z, it can be found at this link.
- FUJIFILM X: For cameras with mount X need an M42-Fuji X adapter, you can find it at this link.
- FUJIFILM GFX: For medium format cameras G-mount need M42-Fuji GFX adapter, you can find it at this link.
- SAMSUNG: For cameras with NX mount, you need an M42-Samsung NX adapter, you can find it at this link. There are no adapters for the NX mini camera yet.
- PENTAX: For Q-mount cameras, you need an M42-Pentax Q adapter, you can find it at this link.
- SIGMA / PANASONIC / LEICA: For cameras with L mount you need an M42-Leica L adapter, you can find it at this link.
- LEICA: For cameras with a bayonet mount Leica M need adapter M42-L / M, you can find it at this link.
If you have any questions on compatibility and adapters - ask in the comments (comments do not require any registration at all).
The parameters shown in the photo gallery:
All shot on Canon EOS 350D. EGF lens on Canon 350D is 216 mm. All shot on F / 2.8-F / 8.0. On-camera JPEG L, high quality (without any processing). Noise reduction at slow shutter speeds was turned off. Parameters: contrast correction - 0, sharpness - 0, saturation - 0, tone color - 0. Used white balance: 'Sunny'. The size of the photos has been reduced to 2 MP.
![ZK lens view](https://radojuva.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/pentacon-pre-set-135mm-2-8-test-1.jpg)
ZK lens view
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions:
The Pentacon 2.8 / 135 is an interesting high-aperture prime, great for portraits. The lens has a characteristic bokeh pattern, and a 15-blade diaphragm allows you to get rid of nuts in the out-of-focus area. Among the shortcomings - a drop in contrast in side and backlight and sometimes strong chromatic aberration.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Gorgeous photo session !!! Who else but I, to be honest, I just fell in love with bokeh ... ..That's where the goal appeared :) Arkady, for the next millionth time, Thank you for your efforts !!!
Hello Arkady, thanks for the next useful article. I looked at the photos from this lens, well, bokeh as bokeh, nothing special, I don’t know why there is so much noise around the Germans.
Thanks Arkady! I also did not seem outstanding lens (apparently due to wear).
We are waiting for the "zebra")))
Hello Arkady, the article, as always, is at its best, but I would like to read more articles about photos, interesting solutions, new ideas, to learn something new, so to speak, and not about the photographer’s technique.
Vladimir, what you want to know can be found at master classes in photography, ...
not always…
Arkady, how would you rate the purchase of this lens if you already have Jupiter-37? What are its advantages besides aperture ratio a bit more? You shot both, how much more beautiful is the bokeh of the hero of the review? Thanks.
I don’t see the point in buying to s37.
and here the winter tail can actually be installed any favorite, so what’s the reason for picking the tail and the tail can you know the tail ??
I like the photo
Sorry if not the topic. Tell me, if possible, on which sites you can put up for sale in Ukraine two old (in time) lenses from a medium format camera "Salyut S":
1. JUPITER-36V 3.5 / 250
2. MIR-3 3.5 / 65.
Both of them with B. mount
The lenses are in perfect condition and fully equipped (covers, filters, caps).
Thanks in advance. Evgeny.
and here is the winter tail actually possible to establish any favorite, so how much for picking the tail and the tail can you know the tail ??
And what will be better
Jupiter 37 a
Or Pentacon from the review.
There is a battered Jupiter, and a more or less normal pentacon.
Jupiter is cheaper. What do you think? Or are the photo lenses identical in quality?
The Pentacon from the review will be better than Jupiter, it is lighter and more interesting bokeh, the 6-petal version of Pentacon has worse sharpness and bokeh, if not sorry for the money - MEYER OPTIK 15 petals, sorry - Jupiter 37 a.
I fully support Ivan! In the distant 80s, I had in use at the same time 4 pieces of "135-ok" (Yu-37, Tair-11-a, Pentacon 2.8 \ 135 (as in the review, with a preset aperture, but without a jumper, and Meyer Orestor). - best of all, although strange, it seems like Pentacon and Meyer merged into one enterprise and the scheme of the lenses is the same, only Meyer was produced in Dresden, and Pentacon in Jena. In addition, Tair 11, although he did not draw such beautiful round highlights in the out-of-focus area like Orestor, but he “flattened” them and “fanned out” over the model's head (especially if you shoot a full-length portrait on an alley going into the distance), which also looked quite impressive. than the respected Arkady in the review - you can see scratches on the rear lens, the picture was "softened", he even gave better edge sharpness on the "legendary" shovel DS-4. But if this is the only problem, then "wind up" sharpening in the camera settings is not problem, and he has very, very bokeh! What about Yu Peter 37, then you need to take into account its initial covered aperture of “3.5” it is still not “2.8” and, therefore, his “field of activity” is somewhat different, it is not for nothing that he is called a “male portrait painter” - but he is much cheaper than the first three, yes and finding it in perfect condition is a snap!
In conclusion - to the Author another respect for the most useful review, and special thanks to Ivan for the useful and accurate comment, I read it already ... I wanted to buy Orestor again, not for the sake of selfishness, but for the soul!
Tell me, what is better to take Tair-11-a or Pentacon 2.8 \ 135 zebra? under Canon?
I would choose Tair even, probably. Still, the preset version is very demanding on light. Yes, and Tair pattern seems to me more interesting.
Strange, I met both lenses here in the St. Petersburg photographer. Tair11A cost twice as much (10k versus 4k Pentacon). Is this objectively or is it due to the popularity of the former? I don't want to overpay, of course, but you never know.
thanks in advance
Hello. Now, in 2020, I would choose the Pentacon zebra)
Tair-11 is clearly overpriced today, although the picture of the two 135 / 2.8 is very different in general. I don't know what about the popularity there, rather, Tair-11 was mythologized, like the G-40.
I can't make friends with this lens in any way. It is extremely difficult to get into focus, the light does not hold any at all. I agree, the drawing is beautiful, but if you are lucky or completely confused. When they say “for a leisurely shoot,” I imagine walking with a camera and enjoying leisurely shooting. But trying to cope with the subject, all the pleasure from the process disappears, a struggle begins) as a result, I freak out and return home in a bad mood))))
When buying, the seller honestly warned that it was only for "ideal", almost studio conditions, they say it is very difficult with him, but the result will exceed expectations. I believed it. For three years now I sell it, then I change my mind) Sometimes I want to put it in my bag before a walk, but remembering the ordeals, I prefer not to ruin my day.
Thanks for your reviews. So I’ve read it, I’ve seen enough examples of pictures and again there is a desire to throw a couple of manuals in the bag and into the park)
Igor, if the vision is good, then there are no problems, I get through the viewfinder, focus on the open one and then clamp it to the desired mark (it has a preset aperture), I turned off focus confirmation, it is inaccurate and distracts from the process ...
I have a Chinese adapter with a chip (customizable), I adjusted it to focus accuracy and that's it. Now 85% of hits! I have canon 85 1.8, by the way, although it has AF in it, it’s still 10% of AF rejects (cameras: canon 5d mark3 and eos 500d). I rent weddings and portraits, when I walk and take a large space, I take the Pentacon, and I put 85 1.8 away! By the way, the Pentacon has almost no aberrations when compared with the modern 85 1.8 usm.
Beautiful lens. Lucky to buy it in very good condition for only 5000 rubles in 2014.
Alteration with preservation of infinity on Nikon, works on all Pentacon and Orestor with this design back. We need ordinary macro rings (non-auto focus) for Nikon. From a set of macro rings you will need: a ring at number one and a backdrop for attaching to a bayonet mount. Unscrew the native back from the lens and instead, from the set of macro rings, twist the ring at number one and the back with Nikon mount from the same set of macro rings. Everything, you can use the lens with infinity! Photo below.
Photo #1
Photo #2
Photo #3
Photo #4
Thanks for the advice. It turned out to make infinity on Nikon with a 15-petal Pentacon in half a minute!
P050WbNuItpNXUs0NHJJ
I bought such a lens with mold.
1. Do I need to get rid of mold.?
2. Is it possible to put a large lens from another lens, if yes, from which lens is suitable.
Years have passed)))
1. No, not necessary. We achieve the necessary effect of the monocle as follows - for a year in an unheated humid room with a sharp change in daytime temperatures. Fix the resulting effect.
2. If not. Can. Take a donor. Razebaem both object on the wall. We buy Helios and for a long time remember what happened. Longing for the light with the legona.
Oh yeah!!!
I have in my arsenal TAIR-11A No. 861922 with a shank KP-A / H and Meyer-Optik Gorlitz Orestor 135 / 2,8 (zebra) No. 5080317. I shot them on the Nikon D7100 and Nikon D610. Compared to the TAIR-11A, the Orestor keeps side and back light perfectly. On the crop and on the full frame slightly twists the background, TAIR-11A also twists. On the open aperture, both gently draw, a female portrait, I don’t want to close the aperture with a depth of field. Both have amazing bokeh. In cloudy weather, when the light scattered (soft) on the open diaphragm TAIR-11A lost contrast and Orestor copes well, but maybe I have such an instance of TAIR-11A. I had Jupiter-9 MS 92 years old on an open diaphragm the same. And it seems to me that low-contrast optics do not really like diffused (soft) light. Although the TAIR-11A low-contrast, I would not call. Sometimes there is a desire to part with Orestor, but considering all its advantages, it’s a pity, I don’t like it just that there is no infinity with Nikon, sometimes the scene needs to be taken on a larger scale.
Arkady, hello!
Your advice is very necessary.
I want to buy a portrait on Nikon DX and face a difficult choice for myself, there are three options:
1. Nikon Nikkor 135 mm f / 2.8 Ai- S, new for 8500 p. (3600 gr.)
2. Meyer-Optik Grlitz Orestor 135 mm f / 2.8, a little shabby, but, in general, normal, for 7500 p. (3200 gr.)
3. Pentacon black, 15 aperture leaves, 135 mm f / 2,8, new, for 6000-7000 p. (2500 - 3000 gr.)
Prices are in last place, the difference is not great.
I want to buy a portrait lens with a fixed focal length of 135 mm, but I don't know which one to choose from ...
Please advise what would you choose? I will be very grateful.
Can I consider some other option besides 50 mm lenses?
I would add and take autofocus YN100 / 2 or native 85 / 1.8AF
Of these Nikon 135 AI-S, as for me, in general will be excellent.
Tell me, they write a lot of different things. Here is a pentacon for a wedding. Will the aberrations on the edges of the white dress be annoying? I want exactly 135k with 2.8 on the budget.
I'm just a mother of two children, not so rich with a penny, I got the lens, I got stuck in order to get into focus more often and then I don’t know how else to know such a large photo. viide))))
All your “volume” is driven in by vertically retouching a horizontal photo and “unremarkable” logo is good.
To saturate the world like that, you don’t need to start it.