Pentacon Review 4/200

According provided by lens Pentacon 4/200 many thanks to Igor.

Pentacon Review 4/200

Pentacon Review 4/200

The Pentacon 4/200 is an old solid film fix with an M42 mounting thread. The lens is available in several modifications. The copy from my review has a very good build. Pentacon 4/200 - Made in GDR In my opinion, the lens has a better workmanship than Soviet counterparts Jupiter-21A 4 / 200, Jupiter-21M 4/200, Tele-N 3.5 / 200.

Pentacon 4 / 200

Pentacon 4 / 200

The lens is weighty, all made of metal and glass. The focus ring rotates 360 degrees, the lens from this review has a tight and uncomfortable stroke of the focus ring, apparently from old age. When focusing, the trunk of the lens lengthens noticeably, while the front lens does not rotate. MDF is 2.5 meters. A feature of the lens is a 15-blade aperture, though it forms not quite even circles in the blur zone. The aperture is continuously adjustable, from F / 4 to F / 22. The lens has aperture reset function - to implement it, you need to pull the aperture ring towards the front lens and set the desired value, then release the ring into place. Front filter diameter 58mm. On the scale, infinity starts after 50 meters. The lens has a depth of field scale and an IR correction mark.

Enlightenment of the front and rear lens Pentacon 4/200

Enlightenment of the front and rear lens Pentacon 4/200

The Pentacon 4/200 does not have multi-coating, but, nevertheless, it gives almost no glare in the backlight, although it loses contrast and appears veil in the pictures. Sharpness at F / 4 is slightly lacking, but at F / 5.6 everything falls into place. The combination of this focal length and aperture ratio makes it easy to achieve an emphasis on the subject by controlling depth of field and squeezed perspective.

Pentacon 4/200 aperture

Pentacon 4/200 aperture

How to use with modern cameras?

Lenses with mounting thread M42 (M42 X 1 / 45.5), such as the lens from this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both SLR and mirrorless), for this it is enough to choose the right adapter (adapter). You do not need to carry out any additional steps to modify the lens.

The cheapest adapters can be found aliexpress.com... There are adapters (adapters) with a chip that provide more convenience during shooting, usually chips are used to confirm focus and / or metering exposure, and form the correct EXIF. The chip does not affect the image quality in any way.

For some SLR cameras (for example, Nikon F) it is necessary to use adapters with a corrective lens, which allows correct focusing at all focusing distances. For any mirrorless camera, such a lens is not needed, and the adapter is a simple decorated hollow metal tube with an appropriate mount.

For SLR cameras

  1. Canon: For cameras Canon EOS with bayonet mount EF / EF-S need an M42-Canon EOS adapter, such an adapter with a chip can be found herewithout chip here.
  2. NIKON: For cameras Nikon DX / FXas well as for cameras Fujifilm и Kodak with a Nikon F mount, you need an M42-Nikon F adapter, you can buy such an adapter without a lens and a chip here, with a lens without a chip herewith chip without lens here, with lens and chip here. Why a lens? Why chip?
  3. PENTAX: For cameras Pentax with mount K you need an adapter M42-Pentax K, you can buy such an adapter here.
  4. SONY/MINOLTA: For cameras with a Sony / Minolta A mount, you need the M42-Sony A adapter, you can find such an adapter without a chip at this linkwith a chip at this link.
  5. OLYMPUS / PANASONIC / LEICA: For cameras with a 4/3 bayonet mount (not to be confused with Micro 4/3!) You need an M42-4 / 3 adapter, you can buy such an adapter here.

For mirrorless cameras

  1. SONY: For cameras with an 'E' series mount SonyNEX и Sony Alpha you need an adapter M42-Sony E (aka M42-Sony Nex), you can find it at this link. An autofocus adapter is also available for these cameras. Techart PRO Leica M - Sony E Autofocus Adapterwhich can be found at this link.
  2. OLYMPUS / PANASONIC / KODAK /  XIAOMI: For cameras with a Micro 4/3 bayonet mount (Micro 4: 3), you need the M42-Micro 4/3 adapter, you can find it at this link.
  3. CANON M: For cameras with a bayonet mount Canon EF-M need adapter M42-Canon M, it can be found at this link.
  4. CANON R: For cameras with a bayonet mount Canon r need adapter M42-Canon R, it can be found at this link.
  5. Nikon 1: For cameras Nikon 1 Series need adapter M42-Nikon 1, you can find it at this link.
  6. Nikon Z: For series cameras Nikon Z need adapter M42-Nikon Z, it can be found at this link.
  7. FUJIFILM X: For cameras with mount X need an M42-Fuji X adapter, you can find it at this link.
  8. FUJIFILM GFX: For medium format cameras G-mount need M42-Fuji GFX adapter, you can find it at this link.
  9. SAMSUNG: For cameras with NX mount need adapter M42-Samsung NX, you can find it at this link. For the camera Nx mini adapters do not exist yet.
  10. PENTAX: For cameras with Q mount need an adapter M42-Pentax Q, you can find it at this link.
  11. SIGMA / PANASONIC / LEICA: For cameras with L mount, you need the M42-Leica L adapter, you can find it at this link.
  12. LEICA: For cameras with a Leica M mount need adapter M42-L / M, you can find it at this link.

If you have any questions on compatibility and adapters - ask in the comments (comments do not require any registration at all).

The parameters shown in the photo gallery:
Everything is filmed on Nikon D700 using a simple M42-Nikon adapter. With a lensless adapter, you can focus within 30-40 meters. Everything is shot at F / 4-16.0. On-camera JPEG L ('optimal quality' compression). Functions: vignetting control, ADL, long exposure noise reduction, high ISO noise reduction have been turned off. Everything was shot in SD (standard mode): contrast correction - 0, brightness - 0, saturation - 0, hue - 0, sharpness - 5 to 9. Used white balance: 'Shadow', 'Sunny', 'Cloudy'. Photo size has been reduced to 3MP.

View of Pentacon 4/200 on ZK

View of Pentacon 4/200 on ZK

Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Lenses and promotions on them look at Moyo.ua.

Conclusions:

The Pentacon 4/200 is a pretty good lens, though the sharpness is a bit lacking when the aperture is fully open. In general, shooting with two hundred-millimeter lenses is much more interesting than hundred and thirty-five. You can find interesting bokeh in Pentacon 4/200, there are different opinions on the network about its quality, but I liked the bokeh of the lens. Such a lens can also be perfectly used on cropped cameras, for photo hunting on animals and birds.

Modern amateur photographers are accustomed to seeing stabilizers in telephoto lenses, and some are openly afraid of telephoto lenses without a stabilizer because of the shake. I have no problem using old telephoto lenses on a full-frame camera, which, with auto iso enabled, allows a fast enough shutter speed for blur-free shooting. For full-frame cameras, high ISOs are not a problem. So, for the photo from this review, I used a shutter speed no longer than 1 / 320s, and the camera itself selected the ISO sensitivity value. For connoisseurs of interesting high-aperture manual lenses, I advise you to look at Soligor 200mm 1: 2.8 C / D.

Material prepared Arkady Shapoval... Look for me on Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram.

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Comments: 44, on the topic: Pentacon 4 / 200 review

  • Oleg

    I wonder how this lens behaves on m4 / 3

  • Denis

    Arkady, you write in the reviews of such old lenses, here, in particular, here above - “the lens is not sharp when open”. In them (these lenses) the concepts of back-front focuses do not arise in principle? (due to their "manuality").

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Usually, it is the lens that suffers from the back / front focus, but there are situations when the camera has problems (the mirror is not adjusted, the matte surface, etc.), then the back-front focus will also be on manual optics. If you say that this Pentacon can be sharp enough, but suffer from a focus error, then no, it produces the same image when focusing with the Live View of my d700.

      • Denis

        OK, thanks!:))

      • Artem

        Arkady, they forgot to put “b” in “adjusted”. Thank you very much for your reviews. Always interesting!

      • Leonid

        If we are talking about an AF lens, then it is the lens that really affects the back / front focus. In the case of the MF lens, first of all, you need to make sure that the viewfinder is properly diopter adjusted, then everything else. Thanks for the reviews in which once again you are convinced to be able to take pictures and have good equipment and glass are not the same thing.
        Regards, Leonid.

  • Sergei

    I will sell a rare pentacon 300/4 18 tr in the case as a new mail connection boss.wret@mail.ru tel 9003023540 Voronezh transfer possible

  • Eugene

    Sorry if not the topic. Tell me, if possible, on which sites you can put up for sale in Ukraine two old (in time) lenses from the Salyut S medium format camera:
    1. JUPITER-36V 3.5 / 250
    2. MIR-3 3.5 / 65.
    Both of them with B. mount
    The lenses are in perfect condition and fully equipped (covers, filters, caps).

    Thanks in advance. Evgeny.

  • wicks

    thanks buddy !!!. I have Jupiter 21m and I got a Pentacon inexpensively probably (50 ye) now I’ll go and see.

  • Eugene

    Greetings, Arkady! I'd love your advice. Thanks to your reviews and articles, I became the owner of several manual lenses. When you set them on the camera, you feel some thrill for these great-growing comrades. I have been eyeing 200 mm lenses for a long time, I would like to get one. At the moment (according to the presence in the ads at the place of residence) there are two options: Jupiter-21M 4/200 and MC Pentacon auto 200/4 (with 6 aperture diaphragm). Both options are in very good condition: both cases, the case and lenses are in excellent condition, the jupiter has a passport, several native filters. The German is really more expensive. What do you advise?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      The question is complex, I would probably lean towards the Pentacon.

  • Eugene

    Thank you Arkady for the tip! I also lean towards the Pentacon. Moreover, about a year ago I bought MC Pentacon auto 29 / 2,8 from this seller (also thanks to your reviews). Peace to your home, Arkady!

  • Boron. Alex

    Hello!
    And can I with my problem ...
    I have such a lens (it seems very little was used).
    And he has a built-in hood, but these are trifles.
    So, I bet on Prakticu (mtl 3) and ...
    not pointing to infinity.
    Slightly not enough to combine the wedges.
    The back of the lens is the same as the Pentacon 2,8 \ 135,
    however, the latter is fine.
    Twisted and twisted ... I don't understand what the problem is.
    Something painted a lot. Can you comment.
    Thank you.

  • Dim

    I bought such a practically new one with a case, the focusing ring also goes tight, but the diaphragm settings seem to float so smoothly, sometimes during focusing the lens starts to twist off. The workmanship is excellent, I don’t understand with sharpness yet - it’s hard to adapt to the crop, it seems open is not quite working, like my 50 / 2.8 Meyer-Optik, but 30 / 3,5 - I really like it - everything is as it should.

  • Vladimir

    Welcome all! According to the announcement, I found such a pentacon auto 4/200 lens. I was very confused by the color of the lens. on the Internet did not find any mention of this. I plan to buy it. Thanks in advance if someone gives information on this lens.

    • anonym

      color as color, I hope you bought it ...

  • anonym

    Jupiter-21A is precisely (A) it is not suitable for soles.

  • Alexander

    Jupiter-21A is precisely (A) it is not suitable for soles. ??? And where does (A)?
    Who does not suit anyone? I have a Meyer-Optik Gorlitz Orestegor 4/200 and an analogue-discussed pentacon 4/200 I would not change either one to Jupiter-21. I came to Orestegor 4/200 from Jupiter and have no regrets (I changed two of Jupiter). I use on Canon 50d and Mark II.

    • Rodion

      Despite the fact that Jupiter-21A is one of the best in terms of optical quality, two-hundred telephones and confidently outperforms the modern 80-200 / 2.8 in sharpness.
      What can we say about the Pentacon, which 21A will tear without problems.

      But 21M will really be worse than this Pentacon, because it is made less qualitatively and optically much worse than 21A.

      • Alexander

        I cannot find any serious explanation for the difference in the quality of these lenses. There are some nuances that are insignificant and easily removable. In both factories, the finishing - polishing is functionally controlled using the same measuring instruments and control tables, which determine the accuracy and purity of the glass. Low production discipline among inspectors is the main quality factor. And then, as luck would have it. I would not recommend reading all kinds of reviews and drawing conclusions about the quality of identical lenses without checking what was written with your own eyes (hands). Astigmatism, the absence of a (focal point) point, affects 43% of the population in one form or another. I'm not talking about people over 45 years old. And we arrange disputes about the quality of optical devices. Besides, the so-called “ringing” sharpness is needed only for test shooting of brick walls….

  • Sergei

    Can you please tell me which is better - this Pentacon 4/200 GDR or the Japanese Super Takumar 4 / 200mm - both of these lenses are sold at the same cost.

    • Rodion

      Takumar will be sharper.

    • anonym

      Of course Takumar. And the word is beautiful, similar to the word Kumar.

  • Sergei

    Greetings!

    I’ll supplement the article a bit, perhaps Arkady considers it necessary to add material to the topic.

    This lens has a progenitor, Meyer Optik Görlitz Orestegor 4/200. Under this name, it was produced until 1972 at the company Feinoptische Werk Görlitz, then this company was included in the Pentacon, and since 1972 the lenses went under the name Pentacon 4/200. There were changes in design.

    The version before 1972 has a zebra, from 1972 to 1976 a lens was produced in which the focus ring acquired the shape of a ring with recesses.

    Such lenses, as in the review by Arkady, were produced from 1976 to 1978. Since 1978, the numbers in feet have turned green (before that they were red).

    Since the late 80s, lenses have been produced with a yellow scale, with only one meter remaining (feet disappeared). In addition, the quality of the lenses has deteriorated. The numbers for these lenses are 4-digit or 9.6 **. *** format. The caption on the lens has changed: “German Democratic Republic”. Before that, the inscription was “MADE IN GDR”.

    In the 1990s, Pentacon auto 4/200 lenses with a 6-blade diaphragm, an A / M switch were produced, but they were made completely in Romania, only components were supplied from Germany and in quality these lenses (as a rule) are seriously inferior to their predecessors. The inscription on the lens is only its name, information about the country of production is no longer there.

    If necessary, I can provide a photo of each of the lenses.

    • Passed by .......

      Come on, Seryozha, where did you go?

    • Paul

      compared the last Romanian (MC 5 petals) with the version of 15 petals (green numbers), there is no difference in the resulting picture, maybe the contrast was slightly different on some frames.

      • Paul

        6 petals

      • Alexander

        Well, you bent it. The difference is clear. Especially if you're shooting brick walls. The bricks are gritty.

    • Sergei

      Somewhere you are inaccurate ... I have a lens of 85 years old (8537636), but it fully corresponds to your description for the years 76-78. In any case, my foot scale is red. And there is “MADE IN GDR”.

      • Alexander

        For these lenses, the first two digits do not indicate the year of manufacture. This is part of the serial number.

    • Vadim

      Good day! I would be very obliged and glad to see images of different modifications of this lens. Best regards, Vadim.

      • Alexander

        I have a “Zebra” No. 4567273. The scale is red in ft and white in m. Made in is absent. I know that the issue in 1960 ended with the number 3000000. The issue in the 60s and 70s averaged 1,5 million over 5 years. So my production was before 1970. This is before the merger of Werk Görlitz with Pentacon in 1968 or 1971. from 1971 on lenses there was no inscription "Meyer-Optik". Mine has a corrective lens, and it was patented by the company in 1964. So it was released between 1964 and 1970. Not earlier, because in 1956 the retractable hood was patented. It is on the lens. There is one more guess about the year my lens was manufactured. In 1985 Carl Zeiss combined its industrial resources with Meyer-Optik. In this form, Meyer worked until 1990. In fact, this lens was already produced by Carl Zeiss. I read some reviews describing the glare from the aperture blades. ... In mine they are dark matte (almost black). What can I say about the lens? I have been using it for 8 years. Above all praise.

  • Stas

    My one has infinity on Nikon (lensless adapter). Excellent color rendering, bokeh (and with any aperture), and in general the picture itself.

  • Mikhail

    Hello Arkady. I bought Pentacon 4/200 and 29 / 2.8 lenses. they were given converter 2x as a gift. I ordered an adapter with a lens but without a chip. I have a Nikon d5100. There are a couple of nuances, it is interesting to clarify such questions. The camera allows you to work only in manual mode, the auto iso is naturally not exposed, will the adapter with the chip work in other modes? And the second question, when you connect any lens with a converter and an adapter, you get "soap", maybe the fault is the same lens in the adapter? Check empirically no, the adapter is not collapsible. Thanks for your work, truly your site for me is one of the main search engines. Creative success

    • Rodion

      Both lenses are unsuitable for work with a converter due to their low resolution and low aperture ratio. Modern sharp glasses with aperture> F / 2 work well with the converter.

      • Mikhail

        Thanks. I got it all over 50ue and for a beginner with a DSLR, you need to work with the manual, for the time being they are suitable.

      • Mikhail

        The question about the converter is removed, having examined the photo on the Internet, I found the absence of a rear lens in my sample, sadly, but fixable. The question remains how to make my Nikon work not only in the manual mode, will the adapter with the chip help?

        • Rodion

          There is an article about the operation of Nikon carcasses with manuals, look. It seems that only the chip will help.

          • Mikhail

            Thanks, I'll look for it now :)

  • Sergei

    Please tell me, I want to buy a good telephoto camera for my old Zenith, I want to shake off the old days, and at the same time make my childhood dream come true, you tested 2 lenses with similar characteristics: Super-Takumar 2 mm f / 200 M4 thread and Pentacon 42/4. Which one you like best, and what are the advantages of one over the other or disadvantages. I read a lot of reviews, including yours, but so far I can’t dwell on any one. Whoever writes, even scares with radiation - it’s from the Japanese. Although if only there really was something, the first thing would be the light of the films - I also studied physics at school, In general, I hope for your professional advice. Thanks in advance!

  • Sergei

    I will supplement the article, but I would generally ask respected Radozhiv to insert this into the main text, since not everyone reads the comments to the end. So, first, a little theory. The working distance of the Pentacon 4/200 is 45,5 mm. Nikon's working distance is 46,5mm. The difference is 1 mm. The KP-4 / N adapter screwed onto the Pentacon 200/42 raises the lens by another 1 mm. In total, in order not to lose infinity, we need to sink the lens 2 mm into the camera. What is needed for this? Nothing but fifteen minutes of communication with a smart turner. You have the rest. So, unscrew the flare nut from the lens tail. Remove the tapered insert with M42 thread. We give it to the turner. The turner removes 2 mm from the mating surface of the insert, which is under the thread and shortens the thread by 2 mm. There is enough body for the groove, do not worry. We put the shortened insert on the lens, screw on the union nut, screw the KP-42 / H adapter all the way into the new mating surface, put the structure on the Nikon D80 (for example) and enjoy life.

  • Michael

    The shank itself for this lens is an adapter from some kind of mount (mount) to the M42 thread. Can you tell me the name of this adapter

    • B. R. P.

      Show a photo and we can help.

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