For a modern photographer, it is vital to be able to get the camera to quickly and accurately automatically focus. In this note, I’ll give my thoughts on working with auto focus. for simple scenes using the optical viewfinder.
About focusing
The focusing process is called differently by different photographers: focus, focus, focus, get into sharpness, achieve focus, achieve focus, catch focus. When communicating, I most often use the word 'to focus', which creates two meanings at once - to' focus' the camera to achieve optimal sharpness and to 'focus' the photographer on the subject.
Each individual camera and lens needs its own approach and ability to work with them, and such a skill comes with experience .. Also with experience comes a skill that allows you to take sharp shots of almost any task, even with slow-focus cameras or lenses.
I usually allocate focus for two types of tasks - complex and simple. I call simple photo tasks, where the subjects of the shooting move quite slowly, or even stand still. Such tasks include studio, landscape, portrait photography, partly macro photography, subject photography. I call photographic tasks complex, where the subjects are moving fast enough, where you have to often change the composition of the frame, and the shooting conditions may not be the most successful. Such tasks include photography of sports events, night photography, reportage photography, photography of children and animals, and other dynamic scenes.
Depending on the type of shooting, your own approach is developed. I usually notice that for simple tasks, amateur photographers use this focusing method:
- focusing on the center point on the subject
- frame composition (moving the camera to achieve optimal composition)
- shooting (shutter release)
This method is very simple and available at any CPC. For example, we shoot some kind of stationary object (in the photo below it is a plant stem with fluff). Focus is focused on the center focus point (stem is in the center of the frame), after which the focus position is locked, and the camera is rotated to compose the frame (stem to the right) and release the shutter.
I focused on the fluffy stem in the central area of the viewfinder, then arranged the frame in such a way as to get a more interesting composition, where the fluffy stem is on the third of the frame line.
This is a very simple and good method of work. In this case, the center point (or area) of focus is used, which is usually best able to determine the correct sharpness of the picture. This is due to the fact that usually the central focus points are cross-shaped points (Canon is much more complicated, information here), while all the others are of linear type. Almost all consumer digital cameras have only one or a few cross-shaped dots, which are located in the center of the optical viewfinder.
The easiest way to use this focusing method is when shooting in AF-S / One Shot mode (once pressed - once focused). In this mode, after a successful focusing, the camera stops the focusing process, after which you can rotate the camera for any frame composition and the camera will not continue focusing.
However, this method has a serious drawback. When you recompose the shot, focus may be lost due to the camera changing its position in relation to the subject. Even if you rotate or move the camera a little, then it moves with it and RIPcapturing or cutting off parts of the image in the zone of sharpness. The image will help to better understand this:
Sharpness area. When the frame is recomposed, the XNUMXD 'frame' responsible for the depth of field also moves. Thus, parts of the image we need can 'fall out' from it. The plane of the frame is parallel to the focal plane of the camera (i.e., parallel to the camera sensor).
Focusing will not go wrong only when we move the camera strictly in one plane parallel to the camera matrix, for example, strictly left / right, or up / down. Errors from RIP displacement during rearrangement are often imperceptible, but using high-aperture long-focal lenses, you can actually face such a problem at close and medium focusing distances. Due to the fact that the error when recomposing the frame is often reduced to zero, this method of focusing recommended for beginner photographers.
Also, 'old school' photographers very often use this method of focusing, since the first autofocus cameras had only one central focus point and this method just became a habit.
For simple tasks, I use a different focus method:
- center focus pre-focus. In this case, I just focus approximately to see what is happening in the frame.
- frame layout. I arrange the composition of the frame as I need.
- select the desired focus point. I do this using the controls on the camera.
- focus on a key subject... There is always a key subject in the photo, which should be sharp, no matter whether it is a landscape or a portrait.
- shutter release.
This method gives me almost 100% confidence in the accuracy of focusing. I also like to use this method for the following reasons:
- I always know exactly where the rip will be.
- I can use tracking focus AF-C, even with a small movement of the subject or moving my camera with me - the camera will automatically adjust the focus. This is a key difference from the first focusing method.
- can use spot metering exposure immediately on that objectfocused on. Spot metering exposure on Nikon cameras combined with the focus point.
- My Nikon cameras can automatically and quickly enlarge the portion of the image I want right after taking a shot. If I focused on one point, I can instantly check the sharpness of the resulting image. In the case of focusing on the central point, and the subsequent recomposition of the frame, you will have to zoom in and out for a long time and scroll to the desired element. For example, in portrait photography, I often focus on the subject's eyes. After the shutter is released, I can immediately check the sharpness "by the eyes" (the selected focus point), this saves a lot of time when checking the quality of pictures.
Many people argue that it is wrong to use additional focus points, because these points are usually not cross-shaped and give inaccurate focusing. From my experience, I can say with confidence - all this is nonsense, modern cameras do an excellent job of focusing at any point.
Eye-focusing.
A minor drawback of this focusing method, I consider the fact that I have to spend time trying to select the focus point I need with the camera joystick. To save time, I configure the function of looping the focus points on my cameras, and program one of the keys to quickly return the focus point to the center. Another disadvantage is the fact that the optical viewfinder is usually very poorly covered with focus points, and there are no points at all at the edges. If you really need to focus on an object that is outside the coverage area of the focus points, then I use the first focus method :) The number of focus points can always be increased using the Live View mode, in this mode they become an almost infinite number (but the focus speed decreases ) :)
It is seen that the focus points Nikon D600 knocked together in the center JVI.
For simple tasks, almost always, I use one-point focusing. When I use autofocus using all focus points, the camera can display multiple focus points at once that are "caught" in focus. But in reality, this “ripple” of dots in the viewfinder only interferes with simple scenes. The lens has only one plane, which is reflected in the depth of field in the image, therefore it is much easier to focus only on the point "pointed" to the key subject of the shooting and take into account the possibilities of depth of field.
But for complex tasks there will be a separate note on working with focus.
I advise you to look at intersecting articles:
- Depth of field and hyperfocal distance.
- Focus modes on Nikon cameras.
- Focus Bracketing
- Focusing systems on Nikon cameras.
- Set focus traps for Nikon cameras.
- AF-assist illuminator with 'spotlight' flash.
- How to focus on old autofocus lenses.
- Speeding up single-point focusing.
- Programming the AE-L / AF-L knokpi to lock the focus.
- Restructuring AF-S, AF-C modes when working with an external flash. Features backlight focusing.
- The viewfinder size affects the convenience of manual focus.
- Dependence of the viewing angle of the lens on the focusing distance.
- Tracking autofocus with Lock-On.
- Focus modes 'A / M' and 'Memory Recall'.
- About focus speed with non-motorized lenses
- Nikon entry-level cameras and focus priority
- Focus Features 'A', for some Nikkor lenses with the 'A-M' switch
Thank you for attention. Arkady Shapoval.
everything is super, as always, but ... a hundred overwhelming ... my eyes hurt. Thanks for the thought)))))
Fixed
In)) Well, we are waiting for the next note.
“My Nikon cameras can automatically and quickly enlarge the portion of the image that I want right after taking a picture.” - D90 can't do that, or have I not fully studied it yet?
And after what kind of cameras can do that?
D200, 300, d300s, 700, 800, 800e, 7100, d3, d3s, d3x, d4, d2h, d2hs, d2x, d2xs - as far as I know, this is an accurate list.
What about the D600?
As far as I know, the d600 was stripped of this useful feature.
And where is it in d7100?
In the D7200, this is done with the f1 function: OK button -> View mode -> Zoom on / off. -> and then you need to select the% increase: 50%, 100%, 200%.
but I don’t have q90, and most of those that are — can.
OK, we will search.
Where in d700 to do it?
Function f2
Tell me, does the d7000 do that? Very useful feature, but not found.
Can not
ninety can not.
And why is not a word said about manual focus? Or is there no skill needed?)
For example, I use the old manual lens
what did you want to hear about focusing on an old manual lens? By attaching it to the camera, you can shoot in M mode. Accordingly, you have one focus point ... so focus using the first method. That's all.
Well, actually there you can shoot in aperture priority mode.
Oleg, the exposure metering mode (aperture priority) has practically nothing to do with the focusing method :)
it’s just about modes
These are completely different modes, metering has nothing to do with it.
Come on ... attach it to your camera ... well, let's say my favorite Soviet manual Tair 11a and try shooting in aperture priority mode ....
No problem. This is exactly what I do when shooting on manual optics. I put the aperture priority, set its value to the ring on the lens, and the camera selects the shutter speed itself.
not on all cameras.
About manual focus is not said, as the article aims to achieve other goals, namely
But still, if you are at least a little careful, you can see in the 7th link this “How to focus on old non-autofocus lenses” with a direct link to a detailed description of the techniques when working with manual focusing on non-autofocus lenses.
No, I can’t find something. give a link please
At the end of the article there is a list of related topics, paragraph 7 https://radojuva.com.ua/2011/04/optika-na-nikon/#how-mount
found thanks
Arkady, but nothing is said about the manual focus on mirrorless mirrors, for example, picking on the nexes.
Write about it in the comments :)
"And I program one of the keys to quickly return the focus point to the center"
On Nikon, the OK button returns the focus point to the center.
I have this button enlarges the picture at the focus point. As you program, this will be the function of the "OK" button. :)
Someone will explain more clearly how to fill in the Fn button in the D7000? The instructions are dumb. It is multifunctional this button. So what should I set, what should I program it for if I shoot in A-mode (aperture priority)? And what to do if you need to use the button for other purposes?
Arkady, tell me, please, how does the focusing mode “AF with dynamic focusing area selection” differ from single-zone? The description says: “The focus area is manually selected, but the camera uses data from multiple focus areas to focus. Even if the subject briefly leaves the selected focus area, the camera will focus based on data from the other focus areas (the change in focus area selection is not displayed in the viewfinder). Use continuous autofocus when tracking erratic moving subjects or when it is difficult to keep the subject in the selected focus area. ”
How does it look in practice? I understand that if the subject leaves the focus area, then the camera focuses on something else in that area. What is the “use of data from multiple zones”, as I understand it. Clarify please.
Dynamic selection for correct focus takes into account the readings of adjacent focus points to improve accuracy. If you select the 3D tracking sub-function for this option, then in Af-C mode and one point at a time, you can see how the camera tries to “guide” the object in the OVI.
Arkady, how do you choose between single-zone and dynamic mode? Is there any point in choosing a dynamic mode with AF-S single-frame focus? I don't seem to have 200D tracking on the D3.
After all the experiments with focusing for myself, I determined the following:
1. We put the focus function on the AF-L / AE-L button
2. Set tracking autofocus
3. Focus on the center point
4. Let go of the focusing button if the object is motionless, hold it - if it moves.
5. Re-frame
6. Push the trigger.
For me, this is faster than changing focus areas.
About manual focus - the same thing, except for pressing the focus button.
Pros do the same, they usually have a special Af-On button for this.
Aha! But amateur DSLRs were cheated ...
I think that ideally you should shoot in a fully manual mode: focusing, exposure meter, sensitivity, aperture, flash power. Indoors, this is often the only option. There is no need to be afraid of manual focusing - you can learn everything!
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4. Release the focus button if the subject is stationary, hold - if it moves.
5. Re-frame
6. Push the trigger.
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So if you press the shutter release button, the second time the camera refocuses again?
How is this possible for the pros?
The problem in this case may arise in the following. If with a tracking autofocus, you assume that the subject can move, then, accordingly, hold the focus button. However, when rearranging the frame, the subject can move away from the center point, but the tracking autofocus will continue to focus on this very center point where the subject will no longer be, and as a result, say, in portrait shooting, the camera will focus not on the model’s eyes, but on its background, which at this moment will be in the center of the frame.
Useful info, thanks! :)
I would also like articles on the intricacies of focusing with a manual lens.
Over the summer, he mastered the old Helios-44M on the D90 enough and now I don’t even change it.)
But getting into focus quickly does not always work.
http://cs409431.vk.me/v409431146/4641/8UW0hqvu6ZQ.jpg
It was noted very accurately that focusing with a specific camera and lens takes some getting used to in practice. To develop this statement, I can add that the points (focus areas) visible in the viewfinder are just (!) Supposed boundaries (the perimeter can be said), within which the focusing sensor is located (invisible in the viewfinder). In the simplest case, a non-cross sensor is a small horizontal stripe, the location of which can be determined empirically by photographing and carefully analyzing the planned and obtained sharpness in the picture. So in my D7000 (determined empirically) non-cross (horizontal) sensors are located in the upper part of the focusing zones (perimeters), i.e. The “stencil” of (invisible) focus sensors is shifted upward relative to the focus points visible in the viewfinder; therefore, when focusing, I make a correction for this state of affairs, i.e. focusing on the top of the focus point. In other cameras, the focus sensor invisible in the viewfinder can be located, relative to the focus point (area), and in the center, and on the bottom, and on the left (or) right side. If you focus on the eyes of the person being photographed, then it is necessary to position the point (focusing area) so that the detected focus sensor passes over the eye and eyelashes, and not over the eyebrows or cheeks. Then the sharpness will be maximized (subject to all other conditions).
Here is a detailed article on this topic - http://www.fotoscope.ru/equipment/275-chto-takoe-bjek-fokus-i-kak-na-nego.html
Thanks to Arkady and to you, Denis, a very valuable addition to the article.
From paranoia about misses in focusing, a screen with wedges and a microrast greatly rescues. I used to have such annoying little things sometimes, when the most successfully arranged and delivered from the pictures, for example, a portrait, turned out to be with a slight miss in focus. This could not but upset. After installing the screen with the wedges, the problem disappeared forever, since I can now check the correct focusing even at the stage of sighting the OVI cuttings. And now there is no need to constantly check the captured frames and terrorize the viewing screen, constantly turning it on and off.
Share, pliz link, where can I read more about this?
Honestly, I have no idea. Everything is completely tested on its own skin, since the time of the film. Then I had a Nikon EM - a so-so camera, but with an automatic shutter up to 1/1000 s. The camera worked in aperture priority, so I’m much more used to working with it. And there was a wonderful (compared to any CZK) JVI. Naturally, he did not go in any comparison with professional models, but compared to any current screens, he was super-huge and super-light. Therefore, having tormented at first with a standard focusing screen on the Central Control Arm, I decided to change it to a screen with wedges. Naturally, it is much smaller than it was on a film camera, but it added a lot of convenience. At least he didn’t bring anything bad. On the open aperture of aperture fixes (I use just such) it behaves quite dignified. At the very least, checking the accuracy of autofocus on wedges is as easy as shelling pears. And tighten the focus ring a little with a small miss, switching the lens to manual mode is not difficult.
Do_Oraemon, and your camera with a 35 mm matrix or crop? It is interesting to know whether these wedges on the crop will help with something.
on the crop, it is quite difficult to focus on the wedges due to the rather small viewfinder. I put it off in a week.
Crop Enough. It is difficult to focus on wedges only on dark zooms and manual with a covered diaphragm. But for this purpose there is a microraster there. He is incredibly bright. Many times brighter than any focus screen. To me, as a former manual engineer, such a system is much more familiar. I shoot mainly with high-aperture optics, so there are no such problems. To a small viewfinder - there are magnifying eyecups on sale.
And how much does this pleasure cost. Fok. Screen with wedges, as with a guarantee, put in the SC ???
just "from China and put it yourself" - about 6-8 hundred, "like a firm and a guarantee" I think it will be 5-6 times more expensive.
Ess no. From China, there will be no more than from an ordinary screen. Regarding the installation - it depends on the curvature of the hands. The same people work in services, only with straight arms. True, they also give a guarantee. Therefore, if many pens are "curly" then the stump is clear through the service, because how to scratch the screen - like two fingers on the asphalt))
Well, I don’t need show-offs, it worked for me.
China works quite well for itself, but I will stick to my already proven opinion - wedges on small and dark crop viewfinders interfere more than help. And it's definitely not easier to focus on them.
Full frame - yes.
Well, there is someone like that. Taste and color, as they say ... Catching focus on the open hole of a light manual using wedges is as easy as shelling pears and it takes much less time than using a matte screen. Don't even argue. I am not aware of the work of China, because I have never used it. But a good Japanese man is very bright. At fully open aperture, it really doesn't miss. Even at 1.4. Therefore, even manually precisely aiming at such a hole is a matter of a couple of seconds. On autofocus models, I just check the focus, that's all. For more, he is not needed.
Thank you very much, I look forward to a note on working with focus for complex tasks.
Arkady,
"And I program one of the keys to quickly return the focus point to the center."
what is the name of this function? I did not find something like this at myself :( D7100
On my D5100, this is done by clicking on the OK button on the camera body.
On the D7000, pressing the center button on the joystick returns the focus point to the center, I think the same on the D7100.
Oops ... didn't know that. True, the camera has already sold. Valuable remark!
Arkady, I really liked your approach to focusing, but I have a Nikon d80 and the option described by i-hero-in is more suitable for me:
1. We put the focus function on the AF-L / AE-L button
2. Set tracking autofocus
3. Focus on the center point
4. Release the focus button if the subject is stationary, hold - if it moves.
5. Re-frame
6. Push the trigger.
I have a question for i-hero-in or Arkady for you. Please tell me under 1. We hang the focus function on the AF-L / AE-L button, do you mean the AF-ON function?
Yes, AF-ON. In the article, I described the possibility of errors during the rearrangement, it is very strange that no one writes about them. For example, on my 180 / 2,8 focus with rearrangement at close distances it does not roll at all.
A small addition. In Nikon cameras, matrix metering is tied to autofocus. This means that focusing on a certain point followed by cropping can theoretically lead to metering error. Although in practice, I have not yet encountered similar problems. I suspect this can cause problems in high-contrast scenes, and 100% will give problems when focusing on an object that is removed the same distance, but is not the main subject. Details in the fourth paragraph of the following article: https://nikoneurope-ru.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/8995.
This is a bit from another opera.
Article - yes, from another opera, but it says in black and white that matrix metering uses AF data. Therefore, I am a little cautious about focusing and then framing, because in matrix metering, exposure is greatest at the moment of focusing, i.e. before cropping. The effect is clearly visible when focusing on a light subject and then framing on a dark one. On a dark subject, the exposure will be based on the calculations that were made when the light subject was focused.
This is another reason to learn to use the multi-point potential of modern cameras.
Good morning everyone, dear Arkady, but what about Kenon 70d, a few words about this focusing system?
What do you want to hear about 7d?
Hello Arkady!
If it’s not difficult, please explain in detail what it means to focus on the eyes, how to do it right?
This question torments me terribly, I can’t understand whether I’m doing it right or not - after all, there are two eyes, and the focus point is one))) And I always focus on one eye only. Enlighten, please))
Thank you very much for your reply!
Please tell me, in the dynamic focus mode I can’t select the focus area, it stands in the middle and does not move anywhere, although earlier it was possible to move it to all points. Maybe something went wrong in the settings, I just can’t figure it out. Nikon D90 18-105
Arkady, I am now reading Scott Kelby's Digital Photography, vol.4. There he writes how he focuses in portrait photography (with apertures greater than 1.8):
1. Moves the focus point along the viewfinder to the eyes of the subject.
2. Presses the shutter button halfway.
3. Holding the shutter button composes the frame as he needs and then lap.
Is it really not the same as focusing on the center. point and then compose the frame, or am I not catching something? Tell me please.
Try not to delay the answer (last time you answered after 3 months (:). God bless you!
The question is not entirely clear. As for my answers - I am not a support service to answer all and all articles on Radozhiv.
I’ll try to formulate the question again. I want to ask why Kelby focuses on her eyes, fixes the focus by pressing the shutter button halfway and then composes the picture. Isn't it easier to first compose the frame, then move the focus point to the eyes and release the shutter? He considers such a method in the next section with portrait photos with apertures below 1.8. To be more precise, if you take your method for simple tasks:
“1 pre-focusing at the center point. In this case, I just roughly focus to see what is happening in the frame.
2 frame layout. I arrange the composition of the frame as I need.
3 select the desired focus point. I do this using the controls on the camera.
4 focusing on a key subject. There is always a key object in the photo, which should be sharp in any case and it doesn’t matter whether it is a landscape or a portrait.
5 release the shutter. " ,
is it possible to simply omit the first paragraph in your methodology? How important is it?
You may miss it. The main result.
The focus point may not be in the “right place” :)
In online shooting, I select the focus point closest to the (supposed) focus point, focus, re-frame (if there is time), press the shutter release.
When shooting moving objects (sometimes I shoot dances - ballroom, oriental), there is often no time for re-framing, so almost always a little more space around the subject is captured so that arms / legs are not cut off, and I try to focus on the face (in the middle ground), or on the eyes (with a half-length portrait, or larger).
Arkady, tell me how you programmed the Nikon button to quickly return the focus point to the center, I can not find this option in the menu.
she is the default.
on the Nikon d300 :)
The gripe of the model in the photo is very deep!