answers: 45

  1. Edgar
    20.09.2013

    Arkady, you did not indicate in what position the zoom sb 700 can illuminate 28 meters ...

    Reply

    • Arkady Shapoval
      20.09.2013

      It’s logical that it’s strictly forward, because in this way you can get the maximum distance.

      ... flash output is measured at ISO 100 or ISO 200 and at the wide-angle flash zoom position and flash head straight ahead...

      Reply

      • Edgar
        20.09.2013

        in the penultimate article, it would seem that there was a mention of Sat 900. Which supposedly could have broken 35m by 38mm (as I understand it, zoom). So after that I wanted to clarify what you mean

        Reply

  2. Alexander
    20.09.2013

    Usually the “welders” aim their flash at the ceiling and hit it hard. How justified is this?

    Reply

  3. pilotkins
    20.09.2013

    Yes, welders, they are ... welders :)

    Reply

  4. Alexander
    20.09.2013

    Good article. I completely agree with Arkady!
    I rarely use my SB600 at full power. In manual mode I often use about 1/8 - 1/16 power. And if I also take a high-aperture fix, then even 1/32 of the power is enough in the “shoot at the ceiling and walls” mode. So it goes.

    Reply

  5. Tatyana
    20.09.2013

    Very true noticed. I would like to shoot without a flash at all, but, alas, sometimes you can’t do without it.

    Reply

  6. anonym
    20.09.2013

    When I was engaged in advertising, I used this picture to advertise one desk))) The article, as always, is a class. And, on occasion, I want to say thanks to Arkady for the advice regarding shooting in the M and TTL modes on the flash.

    Reply

  7. anonym
    20.09.2013

    Thank you for a good review. My question is whether the auto mode (TTL) works if you send a pitch to the ceiling?

    Reply

    • Denis
      20.09.2013

      Works

      Reply

  8. Denis
    21.09.2013

    I apologize for the tediousness, but in the phrase "since TTL spend part of the full flash power" IMHO, a soft sign in the word "spend" is superfluous

    Reply

    • Arkady Shapoval
      21.09.2013

      Fixed

      Reply

  9. Kostya
    21.09.2013

    As always a very good article! Since I don’t have a good external flash, I’ll tell you about the experience of using the built-in flash (Nikon D90 camera). I always use in manual mode approximately 1/128 of the power (or more if necessary) just to extinguish harmful shadows from the sun or other light sources. So this power is always enough for me, and once there was even something remarkable.

    Reply

  10. R'RёS,R ° F "RёR№
    21.09.2013

    Thanks for the article. I'm going to buy something for the D3100, I decided to stick with the SB-700. After the review, I understand that I won't "shoot" the crowd and just a little is enough.

    Reply

  11. Jury
    21.09.2013

    “Even when shooting 'from the ceiling and walls', the power is sufficient from any external flash.”
    Well, I wouldn’t say that. Have you tried shooting in a huge and darkened audience?
    With us, only Sigma with the declared leader in 60m was able to normally expose everything from one wall.

    Reply

    • Lynx
      23.09.2013

      let's go right away for shooting in complete darkness from the mezzanine in the hall of the Bolshoi Theater of the shoulder portrait in the back of the stage against the backdrop of the latest scenery.
      What is the little things?

      Reply

  12. Terms and conditions
    26.09.2013

    Outside, in bright weather, you often need full power, given that high-speed synchronization is almost always used. I'm not a pro, maybe I'm doing something wrong :)

    Reply

  13. Ilya Shakirov
    22.12.2013

    I slightly disagree with the author, who concluded that HF ​​is not particularly important. After periodic repairs of equipment, all masters advise not to shoot at maximum flash power. Apparently, the greatest wear and tear occurs at high capacities. And the work of any reportage photographer is a big wear and tear. I shoot this almost every day, I only use the flash indoors, and even then rarely, and not on the forehead. when shooting at the ceiling, well, this is not a power of 1/64, it is rather 1/8, / 4 and higher. If you do this on sb700, the wear will be higher than 900. Fewer frames in a series (don't say that series are not needed, they are still needed). For the sake of HF, I personally am ready to sacrifice functionality, but take something like the 76th Metza. And to lift the ISO up to 2 thousand and above in order to regret the lamp or the model is sometimes completely stupid, because in most cases the photographer is required to have the quality of the photo, and not the comfort of the “victim”

    Reply

  14. Stas
    27.03.2014

    Thanks a lot! The best photo business blog site. I constantly go out to him. This article helped determine the choice of flash.

    Reply

  15. Andrey Super
    29.04.2015

    I rent periodically in a darkened room without windows (a club), the hall is small, even rather small, a flash Sigma leading number 61 !!!
    I put a maximum on the flash and with full afterburner, and ISO 400 and oh how do I lack power!

    Reply

    • lech
      20.05.2015

      I would like to know what kind of Sigma. by chance not 610?

      Reply

      • Andrey Super
        20.05.2015

        Incidentally, she is the most Sigma EF-610 DG Super.

        Reply

  16. lech
    22.05.2015

    looked at the parameters of this Sigma. it turns out like Nikon-910, only three times cheaper.
    I wonder how Sigma works? on some forum I read that the menu is a bit confusing. it’s also interesting to know how constant the impulse is. that is, is there a large spread in the strength of the breaths with, say, a certain chosen parameter. and does it even make sense to take Sigma instead of the native Nikonovskaya.

    thanks in advance

    Reply

  17. ars
    15.08.2015

    everyone has their own approach and manner of shooting and different requirements ... but I have not met photographers who shoot in the forehead with sb-700 and raise the ISO, sparing the lamp or paying attention to everyone ... crap and nonsense! In most cases, the opportunity to use diffused, bounced light is always sought. In rooms with low or poor lighting, high ceilings and dark walls, for the best result I always go with the METZ-76 “hammer.” And with high-speed synchronization, the 700 is not a fighter at all ... and not for these purposes, it is so-so, perhaps -to gently illuminate for amateur needs or on the pupils with direct aim to give from 12 meters at the maximum.

    Reply

  18. Sergei
    25.08.2015

    I read a lot of things about outbreaks, opinions are diametrically different. Some say that the more powerful the puff the better, others say that a little power is enough. How to choose the right Sb 910 or stop on the SB 700?

    Reply

    • Pastor
      26.08.2015

      If for work, for frequent photo reports under adverse conditions, for filming in large halls and for frequent weddings, then sb-910. If for amateur purposes, then the SB-700 is enough with the head.

      Reply

  19. Mitiai
    30.01.2016

    I would like to see the photos taken with the sb-700 very late in the evening at a distance of> 10m, provided that there is a working video wall behind the subject ...

    Reply

  20. Lina
    17.03.2016

    Can I ask you for advice? I have a Nikon D 7000. I want to buy a flash for taking portraits (beauty) at home. The purpose of the photo is to convey a clear and bright makeup. The budget is not big, because of this I think about Speedlight SB-300. Do you think it will be enough? Thanks in advance for the answer)

    Reply

    • Pastor
      17.03.2016

      Considering the staggering ruble price of the new sb-300, I'd rather take a used sb-700. And the power is higher and there are more possibilities for working with light. Well, purely my opinion regarding the makeup shooting. I'd rather save even more and take two manual flashes - for example, Jungnuo 560-3. Power in such shooting conditions can be easily set manually. Arrange the flashes on both sides (try at different angles) to get a more voluminous photo, hold down the aperture to get maximum sharpness. Sat-300 for what it is necessary at all I hardly understand. For a non-poor and lazy amateur, most likely who are too lazy to carry a large flash and who will not turn their flash head. But the Jungnuo type 560-3 was created the other way around for poor and non-lazy photographers who are interested in working with light by hand, rather than hammering in a machine. But these are just my thoughts, if you need to take a couple of photos quickly and run on, then without automatic flash it will be tight.

      Reply

      • KalekseyG
        17.03.2016

        Well said. An additional "little thing" on top of the carcass will not help, you need 1 or 2 normal ones, even if manual

        Reply

      • Valery A.
        17.03.2016

        Why a trifle will not help? I put sb400, the direction to the ceiling, on it a homemade reflector forward (with an area of ​​a couple of matchboxes) and a stable and satisfactory result in TTL. True, the orientation is only landscape. And you push the girl to a deep study of the materiel, it may be better for her to comprehend consistently.

        Reply

      • BB
        17.03.2016

        The flash mounted on the camera gives almost no volume.
        To draw volume, the flash needs to be pushed back a certain distance.
        Yes, a diffuser card is not bad for quick shooting, but for good soft light you need a larger illuminating surface - at least 30x40, preferably 50x70 for a front or chest portrait.
        I really don't like the square glare in the eyes, the rectangular one is tolerable + the rectangular softbox turns out to be a little more compact, convenient for small rooms.

        Reply

      • Valery A.
        17.03.2016

        You are right, of course, but I do not create voluminous portraits, but a home (or non-domestic) reportage, if only the pictures are clear and colorful.

        Reply

      • BB
        17.03.2016

        The question was not about the report:

        I want to purchase a flash for shooting portraits (beauty) ...

        In my opinion, in order to convey the "quality of makeup", lighting should emphasize the volume.
        There was no talk about the report, there are completely different requirements)

        Reply

    • Alexey
      17.03.2016

      Yongnuo YN685 Wireless TTL Speedlite
      Yongnuo YN-568EX Speedlite
      the price is about $ 100.
      Nikon smokes nervously on the sidelines)))

      Reply

      • Lina
        20.03.2016

        Thank you.

        Reply

    • anonym
      18.03.2016

      And YOU by chance are not the Lina who is hiring a retouch?

      Reply

      • Lina
        20.03.2016

        no

        Reply

    • lech
      25.03.2016

      at least two sb-700s are needed. on one softbox as a drawer, on the second grid as a control one. this is the absolute minimum with which a portrait really begins to be called a portrait and not just a memory photo.

      Reply

  21. lech
    27.03.2017

    To make portraits of black people without additional lighting is generally an empty number. On this profile picture, the power of the softbox was higher than the required one, I also put one grid behind my head (later I needed to put two grids). If the model was white and with blond hair, then with the same settings, everything would go into overexposure.

    Reply

  22. Denis
    29.05.2019

    “14 meters @ f / 2.0
    7 meters @ F / 4.0
    3,5 meters @ F / 8.0, etc. (almost 4 meters when shooting at a closed aperture of F / 8.0!) "

    It seems to me that you have a mistake, the aperture limits the light in half in the footsteps of 1.4, 2.0, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6, respectively, if 14 meters at 2.0, then 7 meters at 2.8, and 3.5 meters at 4.0, etc.

    Reply

    • Michael
      29.05.2019

      The aperture limits the light in half, and the guide number is the distance, not the flash output. Everything is written correctly, there is no mistake. If we want to double the guide number, we increase the exposure by 2 stops.

      Reply

    • US6IBD
      29.05.2019

      In general, I think that one should not operate with such a term as "changing the leading number". Guide number is a conventional value for comparing the power of different flashes. Like the number of "parrots" when comparing the performance of computer graphics cards.
      Under equal standard conditions, it is easier to compare different flash models: ISO-100, F / 1. And under these conditions, we get at what distance the object will be normally lit. The truth is not taken into account when comparing that flashes have a different zoom.
      Another example is the fuel consumption of a car per 100 kilometers. From here you can calculate how much gasoline you need at least 50 km, at least 1000.
      Therefore, there is no need to talk about changing the guide number. It sounds something like this: "How will the fuel consumption change per 100 km if I drive 1500 km?"
      And regarding the linear change in the distance to the number F, Arkady was not mistaken.
      If the distance to the object changes by 2 times, then the area illuminated by the flash changes by 4 times. Accordingly: when approaching, the illumination increases, while moving away, it decreases. So it is with the diaphragm - a change in the linear size (diameter) of the "hole" changes the amount of transmitted light by 4 times.
      Therefore, it is true: at F / 1 - 60 m, at F / 2 - 30, at F / 4 - 15.

      Reply

  23. Vyacheslav
    07.03.2020

    Well, a larger guide number, in my opinion, at least allows more economical use of batteries. Well, I think so. Since puffing more often will have to be incomplete.
    Secondly, a larger HF will extend the lamp life. For the same reason.
    Well, if you puff into the ceiling, then a larger leading number will “break through” the greater height of this very ceiling. Maybe HF is not an end in itself, but all other things being equal, I would get a more powerful flash. Yes, and acquired.

    Reply

    • BB
      07.03.2020

      About battery consumption - by (rather, on the contrary - more powerful impulse - more consumption) :)
      Other things being equal, for a light pulse of a certain “light power”, you need a precisely defined amount of electricity divided by the efficiency of the electrical circuit. About the lamp resource - most likely yes. If the lamp is rated for more power, it is more likely to live longer. Although in inexpensive studio cameras the lamps for 200-300-400 joule flashes are the same, I don't know about on-camera ones.

      Reply

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