Perhaps this article will help determine the portrait portrait for Nikon FX cameras.
Nikon Fixed Focus Lens
Of course, a good portrait can be shot on almost any lens, but it is generally accepted that there are special lenses that can do this task with the highest quality. Typically, such lenses for full-length cameras include fast lenses with a focal length of 85mm. In this article you can find full list of all Nikon Nikkor native full-frame autofocus lenses with focal length from 85mm to 200mmthat counts or can be counted as portrait lenses.
Nikon NIKKOR Z 85mm 1:1.2S (85/1.2S)
Lens for Nikon Z mirrorless cameras. One of the newest and fastest autofocus lenses of all time. So far, there is no exact data on the lens.
Nikon NIKKOR Z 85mm 1:1.2S (85/1.2S)
Announcement lens design here.
Nikon Nikkor Z 85mm 1: 1.8 S
Lens for Nikon Z mirrorless cameras. One of the most advanced Nikon Nikkor portrait lenses.
Nikon Nikkor Z 85mm 1: 1.8 S
Nikon 85mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor
Lens Non-d type. More represents collector's optionthan a working thing. This is the previous version of Nikon 85mm. 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor. In terms of price, the 1.8D AF Nikkor and 1.8 AF Nikkor are practically the same. The only difference is that you won't find the new 1.8 AF Nikkor, since the 1.8 AF Nikkor was discontinued back in 1994.
Nikon 85mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor
Nikon 85mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor
It differs from the previous version in the ability to transmit the focusing distance to the camera (D lens) and another release button on the aperture ring. Optically exactly the same as the 1.8 AF Nikkor. This is the cheapest 'real' Nikon AF portrait lens. This lens is produced to this day, the first versions were made in Japan, all the rest and modern ones including - in Thailand.
Nikon 85mm 1 review: 1.8D AF Nikkor.
Nikon 85mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor
Nikon 85mm 1: 1.8G AF-S Nikkor
The newest 85mm fast prime for SLR cameras. Produced in China. Gives a great picture. The best 85 in terms of price / quality ratio. Has M/A focus mode and built-in focus motor. I recommend this lens to anyone who wants to have an inexpensive lens with a high-quality picture. The price is slightly more expensive than 1.8D, but it surpasses the old 1.8D version in picture quality.
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.8G IF review.
Nikon 85mm 1: 1.8G AF-S Nikkor
Nikon 85mm 1: 1.4D AF Nikkor
The legendary portrait lens. Has a prohibitively high aperturebeautiful drawing. Issued from 1995 to 2010. This is the most affordable 85-millimeter portrait of Nikon with aperture F1.4 and auto focus. True, 85 mm lenses with F / 1.4 and auto focus are only two pieces.
Nikon 85mm 1 review: 1.4D AF Nikkor
Nikon 85mm 1: 1.4D AF Nikkor
Nikon 85mm 1: 1.4GN AF-S Nikkor
The most expensive and optically the best Nikon 85 for SLR cameras. It has a special nanocrystalline lens coating. Among the shortcomings, I highlight the fact that auto focus is slightly slower than with versions 1.8 AF, 1.8D AF and 1.4D. Will work on all Nikon Central Control Units, has an M / AM mode.
Nikon 85mm 1: 1.4GN AF-S Nikkor review
Nikon 85mm 1: 1.4GN AF-S Nikkor
Here is a general plate comparing all 85-current, which may help to understand the nuances.
Differences Autofocus 85-current Nikon
It is typical that all 85 Nikons do not use special elements in their optical design, such as ED, A.S.P. etc. Next come the longer telephoto lenses:
Nikon 105mm 1: 2.8 AF Micro Nikkor
In fact, this is a macro lens, but can serve as a portrait lens. Non-D version. Same as the Nikon 105mm 1: 2.8D AF Micro Nikkor, manufactured in 1995. I would not include 105mm F / 2.8 AF in this list, but I couldn’t get around 105mm F / 2.8 AF-S, because here are two versions of 105mm F / 2.8 AF. Macro lenses are very sharp, this can be a hindrance for some types of portraiture. But the focal length of 100-105mm is considered by many to be traditionally portrait for full-frame cameras.
Nikon 105mm 1: 2.8 AF Micro Nikkor
Nikon 105mm 1: 2.8D AF Micro Nikkor
This is an updated version of the previous lens. It was produced until 2006. Macro lenses boast excellent micro-contrast.
Nikon 105mm 1: 2.8D AF Micro Nikkor review.
Nikon 105mm 1: 2.8D AF Micro Nikkor
Nikon N AF-S Micro Nikkor 105mm 1: 2.8G ED VR SWM IF Micro 1: 1 Nano Crystal Coat
Modern professional macro lens. It is still being issued. Many photographers assure that this makrushnik can be a wonderful portrait painter. The lens itself is very unusual, here is the nanocrystalline coating of the lenses, and the image stabilization system (in the fixed lens!) And the focus mode M / A. But Nikon DX AF-S Micro Nikkor 85mm 1: 3.5G ED VR SWM IF Micro1: 1 I did not include in this list because of the DX factor and low aperture.
Nikon N AF-S Micro Nikkor 105mm 1: 2.8G ED VR SWM IF Micro 1: 1 Nano Crystal Coat Review.
Nikon 105mm 1: 2.8GN AF-S Micro Nikkor ED VR
Nikon Nikkor Z MC 105mm 1: 2.8 VR S
Modern professional macro lens. Announcement here.
Nikon Nikkor Z MC 105mm 1: 2.8 VR S
Nikon 105mm 1: 2D AF DC-Nikkor
This is a unique 'super' portrait lens with a unique Defocus Image system. Considered one of the best Nikon portrait lenses. Some sneer at 105 DC as a cut from 135DC. The DC system allows you to control the level and nature of blurring of the foreground (F) and distant shots (R). Owners of Nikon cameras without a focus motor will not be able to use the legendary Nikon DC 105 and 135 cameras.
Review of Nikon AF DC-Nikkor 105mm 1: 2 D Defocus Image Control.
Nikon 105mm 1: 2D AF DC-Nikkor
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 105mm 1: 1.4E ED N
New lens introduced on 27.07.2016/100.000.000/XNUMX. Not enough information. Should be a legendary portrait lens as it was released for Nikon's “XNUMX” lens event.
AF-S NIKKOR 105mm f / 1.4E ED
Nikon 135mm 1: 2 AF DC-Nikkor
The first version of the legendary Nikon 135/2 DC. Non-D type lens. Has been replaced with a new D-version.
Nikon 135mm 1: 2 AF DC-Nikkor
Nikon 135mm 1: 2D AF DC-Nikkor
This is another unique true 'super' portrait lens with Defocus Image System. Considered an icon among Nikon's portrait lenses. Oddly enough, it is still available, and Nikon will not release an updated version with an integrated focus motor in any way. Many swear at this lens for scary HA, many extol his drawing. For example, Ken Rockwell considers him the best of its kind.
Nikon 135mm 1: 2D AF DC-Nikkor
Nikon Nikkor Z 135mm 1:1.8 S Plena
A special lens from the Nikon Nikkor Z line.
Nikon Nikkor Z 135mm 1:1.8 S Plena
Nikon 180mm 1: 2.8 ED AF Nikkor MKI
This is already a 'long' 180mm portrait lens. First autofocus version. This lens has undergone a number of changes from this very first MKI all the way to the MKIV.
Nikon 180mm 1: 2.8 ED AF Nikkor MKI
Nikon 180mm 1: 2.8 ED AF Nikkor MKII
The second version. Another body, a nice focus ring.
Nikon 180mm 1: 2.8 ED AF Nikkor MKII
Nikon 180mm 1: 2.8 ED AF Nikkor MKIII
The third version. Already in the classic design, but still without the possibility of transmitting the focusing distance to the camera.
Nikon 180mm 1: 2.8 ED AF Nikkor MKIII Review.
Nikon 180mm 1: 2.8 ED AF Nikkor MKII
Nikon 180mm 1: 2.8D ED AF Nikkor MKIV
Latest version 4th version. It is produced and sold to this day. Nothing of the kind can be found for such money. True, 180mm needs to get used to shooting. A not-so-useful portrayer for Nikon DX cameras and just a chic lens for Nikon FX cameras. Strange, but Nikon is greedy and does not update the legendary 105, 135 and 180 fixes.
Nikon 180mm 1: 2.8D ED AF Nikkor MKIV review.
Nikon 180mm 1: 2.8 ED AF Nikkor MKIV
Nikon 200mm 1: 4D ED AF Micro Nikkor
This is a macro lens. One of the sharpest lenses of all time. It can only be considered portraiture very conditionally.
Nikon ED AF Micro Nikkor 200mm 1: 4D review
Nikon 200mm 1: 4D ED AF Micro Nikkor
Nikon 200mm 1: 2G ED AF-S Nikkor VR MKI
Extremely high quality lens. A completely different price range and very different sizes compared to previous options. This lens will only fit the 'true' professional who knows how to handle 'jewelry'. The lens has been upgraded to version N GII.
Nikon 200mm 1: 2G ED AF-S Nikkor MKI
Nikon 200mm 1: 2GII N ED AF-S Nikkor VR MKII
The second version of the lens. Optically the same as the previous one, but with the addition of a nanocrystalline coating and an improvement in the VR system. This lens (its two modifications) is the only copy from this list, which uses ED and SED elements in the optical scheme. Nikon only has 3 lenses with SED elements, two of which are these 200mm monsters, and the third is Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 80-400mm f / 4.5-5.6G ED VR
Nikon 200mm 1: 2GII N ED AF-S Nikkor MKII
Lens selection. Personal experience
As with any other lens, choosing a portrait lens is primarily aimed at determining the focal length and aperture you need, and secondly at optical properties, including the lens bokeh pattern. I did not shoot with all these lenses, but I shot with so many similar fixes, which is why some of my recommendations were born.
Focal length is, in my opinion, the most important thing in choosing a fixed portrait lens. The focal length determines how far or close your camera will be from the person or group of people being portrayed. So it is convenient to shoot with an 85-piece in small rooms, because you don't need to go far. 135mm and 180mm will be much more convenient and effective in places where there is room to turn around. Portraits are different - shoulder, front, waist, generational, full-length, group, and a lot depends on the direction of portrait photography. For example, in nature, an 85mm lens turns out to be a fairly short lens for a shoulder portrait, while a face portrait at 85mm (and even at 105mm) is inconvenient to shoot. If it is difficult to tinker with a 135-fabric, but with an 85-fabric it is already 'short', that is, a weave option - 105mm. Many photographers shoot with lenses of the 300 / 2.8 and 400 / 2.8 classes. The longer the focal length, the more blurred the distant shot, the easier it is to convey the person in the picture. They say that the teleband makes the face look flat and unnatural, but in fact, the teleband has many other advantages. Many photographers replace the 85-200 range with a single 70-200 / 2.8 or 80-200 / 2.8 zoom and in addition take some exquisite portrait lens for the sake of a beautiful picture. For work, my main kit for a portrait consists of a fix 85 / 1.8 and a fix 180 / 2.8. But if I had my way, I would shoot everything at 300mm and higher.
Once I got into studio shooting with only a 105 mm lens, and the task was to shoot face and shoulder portraits, after that I once and for all hacked on my nose that for a shoulder and face portrait you need much more than 100 mm. In the studio I almost touched the model with the front lens for 2 hours - it was just crazy discomfort.
The difference in aperture between F / 1.4 and F / 2.0 is 2 times, between F / 2.0 and F / 2.8 is 2 times, and between F / 1.4 and F / 2.8 the difference is 4 times. Therefore, if you need aperture for short exposures or portraits in natural 'low' light (indoors, morning, evening, night), the 85mm 1.4D, 85mm F1.4G is the best option. F / 1.4 can provide the finest depth of field for the most unusual photo ideas.
I can’t say which of all these lenses will be the most-most, this is everyone’s choice. But in any case, all of these lenses deserve due attention and respect. For Nikon DX cameras, a fifty lens can often be a portrait lens, you can see thoughts on choosing a fifty here... Please do not litter this article with the slogans "fifty dollars is our everything!" You can also read interesting thoughts about 135 ok и confrontation between Nikon / Canon systems - discrete portrait photographers.
On the topic, you can see reviews of lenses from third-party manufacturers that fall under the parameters described in this article:
- Sigma EX 85mm 1: 1.4 DG HSM
- YONGNUO LENS 100mm 1: 2 (YN100mm F2)
- Tokina Macro 100 F2.8 D AT-X PRO N / AIS
- Sigma 180mm 1: 3.5 APO Macro DG HSM D EX
- Tamron SP AF 90mm 1: 2.8 Di MACRO 1: 1 272EN II
- Yongnuo 85mm F / 1.8N
Conclusions
Choosing a portrait fix is always difficult, but reasoning soberly, you can very quickly and simply decide on the right lens. Professionals usually do not bother at all, they know exactly what is best to choose, and for ordinary fans, Nikon has many pleasant options both in price and quality. You can share your impressions about these lenses in the comments.
Budget options of more or less tolerable portrait painters are discussed here.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.com.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
"Fifty dollars is our everything!" !!!!!! down with 135 ds
fifty dollars is our everything!
two from the box, the same from the face)) Next time I will write “do not like the article” :)
Hello. I have a Nikon D5000 18-55 mm camera. Please advise what is the best lens to choose for him? I’m an amateur, I don’t really understand any qualities and peculiarities of lenses. I just want beautiful, clear, model photos. In the likeness of these
http://cs411421.vk.me/v411421705/e4bf/w8aXeJLHrKc.jpg
http://cs417023.vk.me/v417023552/86b8/eQutagR_dec.jpg
http://cs406322.vk.me/v406322552/d2d/-kz4e-81kzU.jpg
http://cs307704.vk.me/v307704738/735a/tjUnt5s1vhA.jpg
http://cs417330.vk.me/v417330618/5e25/WnJM9VapLH8.jpg
Thanks for the help. :)
Dear Katya. As far as I can see by blur, this is our shovel Helios. He will become Nikon, but there is no autofocus in him!
You are doing well and whale. I WILL ADVISE FOR 2-2.500 GR. BUY NIKON 70-200 4.0 AF, OR 80-200 2.8, BUT HE WEIGHT 1350GR. And it costs 3500GR.
There were times ...
That yes
Mojna uznat kak vam udalos takoi rezultat???
po skype ili po mailu ...
I want to buy Nikon D7100 body. Tell me, which lens is better to take for portraiture and nature photography?
The law is not written for fools….
It's about two of the casket….
If you shoot a portrait at 200 or 300, you also need a loudspeaker, otherwise you won't shout to the models ... As for me, this is already nonsense. For full-frame 85-105 is quite enough, but on the crop - fifty is our everything)
About the loudspeaker you said that funny! In my opinion, as the article says, depending on where to shoot. A matter of habit and need. As for me, 50mm indoors (on the crop) is good. And in nature, street photos and 200 and 300 really love!
And why only fifty dollars on the crop? 105 micro is also great for crop and 60 micro too.
fifty kopecks are cheaper than 105 micro. In addition, fifty kopecks can be removed both indoors and outdoors.
I completely agree, but 105 mm has a stub, which is great on the fix. Well, the background blurs on the same f5-5.6 105mm and 60 mm much more beautiful than fifty dollars.
Help me choose a lens. You wrote that it’s easy, but I can’t choose.
No problem, write what you expect from the lens and what a budget.
Oh, but what about 105 / 2,5 - Ai (non-Ai) and some other modifications? I have such a manual, but good drawing.
At the beginning of the article it is indicated that the choice is an autofocus lens model.
I would also like advice or some comparative reviews specifically on portraiture. consider options 85D 1.4; 85G 1.4; 105DC 2.0; 105 AF-S 2.8
in principle, 85D, 105 AF-S and 105DS are in the same price category. and 85G is one and a half times more expensive. Is there any difference in quality between 85D and 85G in 650 ye? or is the difference not significant? as in the picture 85ki in comparison with 105kami?
the budget is not the most important thing, but I don’t want to overpay for a non-significant difference. I unfortunately have no way to rent them and test them all, so I ask for your help.
85 1.4G is slower for 85 1.4D, I would not overpay for 1.4G. I haven’t tried how these 105tk behave, I won’t write anything extra.
It would be nice to include several non-Nikon lenses in the list for a more visual comparison. For example:
-Sigma 85mm F / 1.4 EX DG HSM;
-Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm F / 1.4;
-Carl Zeiss Apo-Sonnar 135mm F / 2;
-Samyang 85mm F / 1.4;
-Tamron SP 90mm F / 2.8;
-Tokina AT-X M100 AF Pro D 100mm F / 2.8 Macro.
But even without them, the article turned out to be very interesting.
If you carefully read, this article applies specifically to relatives, namely autofocus lenses. If you add here manual and all modifications from third-party manufacturers, you will never make a choice.
give half a toss! fifty dollars is our everything!
As Lelik said - "If a person is an idiot, then this is for a long time"
ten)
Arkady thank you very much for the article! I agree with you on all counts, by the way on the crop fifty kopecks are not mine, that's all for sure. My D7k shoots fine at 135 and at 200 fifty compared to them shirik. Pictures are very different. I like to take facial portraits more, so I think that for facial the best range is 85-200.
Well, actually because I only included 85-200 lenses here, below 85mm is inconvenient, and more than 200mm is rarely needed.
By the way, Arkady wanted to ask you for advice ... one very good photographer advised me to buy AF-s 85 1.4G instead of AF 85 1,8 ... citing the fact that the latter is much sharper and cheaper ... but on the first one you still won't shoot at 1.4 because the depth of field very small and very difficult to focus .. is that so ????
As I wrote in this article - 85 1.8G is the best value for money. At 1.8, the depth of field is also not very large.
85s (1.4G and 1.8G) seem to be the best quality lenses on Nikon, but my soul lies more with Nikon 105mm 1: 2.8GN AF-S Micro Nikkor ED VR - less chromatite and can shoot macro. And on the crop, of course, fifty is a portrait lens and 90% a staff.
PS: It would be great if the kit kits for DX were with fifty dollars, and for FX - with 85.
yes, it would be cool, although people often ask me on Radozhiv “Arkady, why doesn't my 50 1.4G bring the birds closer ...” :)
Lord, what can you not meet))) "does not bring the birds closer"…. original !! ))) I laughed to tears !!!! you probably have a lot of patience to read this)))
Yes, sometimes I can’t sleep because of the comments.
nothing funny (my nikon 100-300 also does not give a wide angle (which I won’t fit my mind ((((((
For DX, in my opinion, 35mm 1 / 1,8 is ideal as a staffer both indoors and outdoors at any time of the day with a fifty-fifty at home it’s hard to shoot already.
Great article, Arkady, Happy Photographer's Day! Creative victories, inexhaustible inspiration for the benefit of us!
Thank you.
Hello, the question is of course off topic, could you write a statue on how to shoot the sunset and dawn, I’ve been trying for the umpteenth time since I can’t achieve such an effect as if it’s in reality, thank you in advance
To shoot, as described in the articles by which you are guided. But the big secret is that because of the relatively small photo latitude of the cameras, nothing can work out, and in order to get a “tasty” picture, you need to play a little with RAW.
A fifty-kopeck piece on the crop gives face distortion, and this is always noticeable for a somewhat experienced eye (not even a photographer). 85 1,4G gives a completely different picture on the crop and in terms of distortions (their almost imperceptible minimum) and quality. Having shot half an hour on the Nikkor 85 f / 1,4G, I realized that I had lost a lot of time with the fifty-dollar camera on "portrait" shoots. School with fifty dollars for that very experience gives a lot :)) ...
I also understood this for a long time and for a long time did an excellent job with 85 1.8d on the D200, and now, it’s embarrassing to say, I have no fifty dollars besides Helios-81N at all.
I think there will be many who wish to speak out, Arkady thanks and bravo!
It would be great.
Thank you Arkady for your painstaking work.
Faced with the fact that b-ke is not particularly interested in anyone except photographers. The beauty of the drawings is also for connoisseurs. The average consumer knows little about this. That is why your article, Arkady, is USEFUL. This is the first article to raise the issue of focal length as one of the decisive factors for a particular type of portrait. From my little experience I know that this is often more important than the luminosity and the bo-ke. At 18-200 in nature, I shot very good portraits of simply unsuspecting acquaintances about the shooting. Every 20th was successful. I threw out the rest, but people really liked it.
This is the best photo site. With thanks.
Yes exactly. I will say more, for many people, even a slightly blurred background (even where it is technically and aesthetically necessary) causes some confusion among people when viewing my portfolio, often the client asks to make everything sharper so that everything is sharp in the photo. Well, it's even easier for me. Many people complain that something for all the photographers (with whom they met) is all 'blurry' precisely because “where people are” everything else is blurry.
Do you remember how Zoshchenko has it? Two traded for a picture with a birch grove and the main argument was the number of cubic meters of wood depicted in the picture. Nothing has changed.
Yes, often the client wants everything sharply as it turns out on minimatrices. It's definitely easier to shoot - you have clamped the aperture and you do not have to suffer trying to get into focus on open apertures. Oh, how much of a photographer's work is not obvious, it is not obvious that you can work on one photo for 3-4 hours.
I will share my modest experience, I do not pretend to be an adviser at all, I just bought several lenses and have some impressions:
1.Helios 81
2.Kaleinar 5n
3.Jupiter 37 ms n-30
4.Nikkor 105f / 2.5
5.Nikkor 35f / 1.8g
The worst result in proportions of the face-fix Nikkor 35 / 1.8g, sharpness +5
boke +2; then Helios 81 (although a very beautiful twisted boke, the best is + 5); Kaleinar 5n gives a very saturated color, sharp picture, you even need to lower it in PS, the proportions are correct bokeh +5; Jupiter37 ms-true proportions, saturation real, bokeh +4; Nikkor 105 / 2.5 - the correct proportions, even bokeh + 5, the color is true. This Nikkor 105 / 2.5, as for me, is the best.
Hello! Arkady, what would you recommend to choose as a portrait zoom from:
Nikkor AF 24-85mm f / 2.8-4
Nikkor AF 37-70mm f / 2.8
Tamron AF 28-75mm f / 2.8
Tokina AF 28-70mm f / 2.8-4.5
Thank you!
It would be nice to have the same reviews of wide-angle lenses.
And not only for the Nikon system, but in general.
I understand that it is an exorbitant work, but still - a request.
I understand that I ended up in the Nikonist camp, but a very big request: Is it possible to do something similar according to Canon? Very interesting topics. I myself use for the portrait mostly Helios 44-2 and Yu 37-A, but I would like to know about alternatives.
yes, okay, most of my reviews are filmed on canon :)
Nobody's perfect. The point is probably not in the name of the camera, but in the gasket between it and the world, IMHO.
Good day, Arkadiy. Yak tіlki having stumbled upon the topic of statistics in his own signature, then virishiv, then your daughter will see you here https://radojuva.com.ua/2011/03/obzor-nikkor-af-s-35mm-f1-8-dx/comment-page-3/#comments statty, that statty appeared about the software for single-frame cameras. After reading it, nevertheless, not rozcharuvavsya (all your statistics), but the comments confirmed that, in the first place, portrait photographers for DX cameras can also cite people; in a different way, your readers have a lot of comments in their comments, it's great to update the article with valuable pleasures, clarifications and visnovki; by third whispering your "obitsyanka" in the comments before the statti about Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G the D3100 camera is overlapping as one of those found most often "will need" replace your whale asset 35 50th. Recently, I had a chance to hit a yak rosmivє von 50 on D90. I think it’s okay to reimagine the depth of 35s in my viborie of a lightweight fix. The good price has gone too far. It seems like it’s going to take hours, if 50 hryvnias cost 1600 UAH, and at a time - 1950-2000 UAH.
I have a choice: to buy another lens (50mm 1,8) because the whale 18-105 no more matches the desired result or puff. What do you advise to purchase?
puff, puff, but to get half a hint, this is a good thing, I myself have one and the other, after 18-105 a fifty dollars just do not pop off the camera, but I use my puff rarely, I advise you to take an objective, it will bring you more positive moments than a puff but she is needed too
How to bring all the details into focus of the camera so that the whole picture is clear? I tried to set the “M” mode, but it lights up strongly.