A small article note on the topic in which modes I most often shoot.
Burst Mode
Most often, photographers use two types of shooting modes - single frame and continuous. In 99% of cases I use continuous shooting mode. This does not mean that I shoot in long bursts at a speed of 10 frames per second, it only means that most of the time my camera is set to continuous shooting. This applies to my cameras and Nikon and Canon.
Many Nikon CLCs have three standard shooting modes:
- S - singlemode, standard shooting mode... Once pressed, I received one frame.
- Ch - continuous high speed high speed burst shooting - once pressed, received a lot of frames.
- CL - continuous low speed, low speed burst - pressed once, received a lot of frames at a given shooting speed.
Shooting mode switch on the Nikon D600
Some cameras do not have Ch, CL modes, but only have S mode and burst mode. These cameras include Nikon D40, D80, D5000 etc. For such cameras, in burst mode, which is indicated by the icon 'three shots, one on top of the other', the camera works at its maximum possible speed. But if the camera has CL, CH modes, then in most cases you can adjust the shooting speed using the menu for them.
Shooting Modes on the Nikon D800
Why do I always use CH, CL or burst mode? It's very simple, I do not like to switch modes on the camera again. In burst mode, to stop shooting, simply remove your finger from the shutter button. But in S mode, you have to press the shutter button 5 times at a frantic speed, which negatively affects the entire shooting process.
So switch modes on the Nikon D90
Many photographers use S mode for thoughtful photography and to extend the life of the camera shutter. It is assumed that from rapid-fire use the camera shutter will wear out quickly. I agree with this, but nevertheless my tasks are often associated with the reportage style of photography, where very often it is necessary to make a 'broach' in several frames. Usually I take a series of 2-4 frames of key moments in photography. At the same time, I do not need to poke around for a long time and move the camera from S mode to Ch, CL mode. Most often I use the CL mode with a speed of 2 to 5 frames per second.
Select a shooting mode on Nikon D5100. CL, CH mode replaced by one burst mode
In many cameras, you can set a limit on the number of frames in a series, this serves as a kind of 'foolproof', so as not to take a million extra shots, or to prevent accidental pressing of the shutter button. For example, if the limitation has 20 frames, then this means that after 20 shots in a series, the camera will stop shooting and will not waste the shutter resource empty.
All the same applies not only to Nikon cameras. In general, to understand this advantage, you need to have some work experience.
Conclusions:
The continuous shooting mode is very convenient in that it can be used both as a regular mode with single-frame shooting, and with the ability to immediately receive several pictures in a series.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
Thanks for the article, Arkady! also in 99% I’m shooting in Ch mode, Сl somehow didn’t take root, so the fuji camera, it’s slow, and increase 1.5 frames per second. it makes no sense) but the drawback of the S mode is that in addition to clicking the button, you need to adjust the focus each time, since the lens focuses again, which is very inconvenient.
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And on the contrary, it’s a plus for me every time that it refocuses, and in the series at least one or two frames will be sharp (D7000)
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Similarly. The charm, re-focusing is undeniable!
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For example, I use AF-C focusing, focusing is monitored all the time and almost all frames are sharp at the output.
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Thank you for the next thought and the time spent on us readers. I watched the advertisement :-)
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Hello everyone!
With single-frame focusing, the ph (D5100) starts to go dull.
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On my canon there is no Cl, Ch, only a series. So I turn off the series when I work with a flash, external or built-in, because I did not have time to let go, I got a black frame. I also turn off the burst in poor shooting conditions, when autofocus does not have time or cannot aim.
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I use only manual optics!
My stopper, limiter, from unnecessary serial shots, is a good aim and the price of replacing the camera shutter. It turns on when you switch to serial shooting and works as I think about the price, so the finger from the button and it goes off :-)
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It is also worth noting that there is a memory limit on the camera. And he takes the first few frames with the set speed, and then the memory ends and the shooting speed drops sharply.
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This is called a buffer.
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Oleg, well, it depends on the device, my old Nikon D200 spars about 25 frames at maximum speed until it starts shutting up, but I use it very rarely, since the main genre I work with is reporting in a dark room, and I have a SB700 flash, it’s serial shooting does not support
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I also often use manual optics. Almost always I shoot in continuous shooting mode, and while pointing the sharpness, I slowly twist the focus ring, and then from 3-5 shots I choose the sharpest one. This helps me save time and not use LiveView to get a sharp shot.
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This is called focus bracketing - https://radojuva.com.ua/2013/04/focus-bkt/
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Arkady, tell us in more detail why you still need the CL mode with an adjustable burst speed. In what cases do you bet 2 fps? In which 5 fps? For example, I don’t use this mode at all, always either single or CH.
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Particularly important points registration statement from the genus. at home, etc. where it is not forgivable to either miss something I only shoot a series then choose where it is better so that the mouth is not open, the eyes are not closed, or vice versa ...
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Hello ! I have a Nikon d5100, I just bought it, but I can’t set up the sport mode for photos of moving elements, I'm a beginner newbie). Tell me how to configure! Thanks in advance for your reply!
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You put the device in S mode and pull the shutter speed to 1/2000 or 1/4000 if there is, ISO on the machine and you will be happy)
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Hello, Arkady, I like your articles very much, after reading this I tried to shoot "serial shooting" - it worked, but after a while the camera began to eat .. how to explain it .. in general, after pressing the shutter button, the camera "stupid" for a few seconds and only then photographs .. maybe I clicked something of course (I read some of your articles and immediately experimented).
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The delay may be due to the following reasons:
1. Red-eye enabled with flash
2. The shutter delay is enabled in the menu to avoid blur
3. But most likely the problem is either with the card or just the frame buffer does not have time to be freed.
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you have turned on “shooting at an interval of 2-3-10 seconds, underline the necessary”. take the instruction, find the item "shooting with a timer" and turn it off
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Well 3 - vryatli .. deleted the pictures so .. there is something else .. thanks!
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All the same, it was 1..and the question is - is it possible to take pictures in the “burst shooting” mode with a flash?
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With built-in - it is impossible, with external - you can.
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Thanks a lot:)
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Probably already tired of asking questions ... but even so I need a couple more tips :) Well, in nature, you get cool photos, but indoors, well, somehow .. sad .. in general, no pictures at all: (do not tell me how best to take pictures indoors if you can't use flash?
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Increase ISO. Open aperture. Increase exposure time.
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can I somehow configure in d5100 to press once, immediately 5 frames happened?
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Hello! I have a Nikon D 800 camera, the Ch and Cl mode does not work for some reason. And in the settings it costs 4 frames per second, for example. It just produces 1 frame during the descent. I don’t understand what could be the problem. What tinctures is still connected to serial shooting? Or carry to the service? (
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Does not work with the flash on.
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Arkady, hello!
Many thanks for your articles. Everything is very clear and simple language.
A little comment: I think that in relation to the shooting mode, S means Single (single) rather than Standard.
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Recently on this very useful site, especially for dummies and newbies. On the topic of burst shooting ... How would you recommend shooting sports events. It's all the same - volleyball, football. F / a Nikon d7100 ... I shoot in the “Sport” mode, but are there any manual settings?
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There is a whole shooting technology. To do this, you need to understand the focus and exposure, and this is difficult. Best with this article start and read related topics on the links.
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Thanks! I will read it with interest, I already see many interesting moments that I did not know about) I shoot on “Sport” by serial shooting, when to press the shutter - I know))) each sport has its own characteristics
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Learning to shoot from beginning to end.
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???? What does it mean from beginning to end? I can show the frames I shot in these shooting modes (volleyball)
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it means "from the fence to the grave."
Sports shooting is one of the most difficult sections of professional photography from a technical point of view.
The requirements are high both for technique and for knowledge of it, settings suitable for a particular situation, objectives, requirements, as well as reactions, and also - developing your own style of shooting.
it usually takes more than one year of hard work
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Well, about the complexity, technique, style and reaction, I had no doubts - I know everything very well ... but my shooting is unprofessional, I don’t earn money with this (yet)))) I think that someone who earns money for a living with this profession can call himself a professional (I work for others) - the rest are "amateurs", although many "love" will give odds to some "pros", IMHO
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well, for sure you can ... why would you show them?
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Well, to bring to court (tribunal) ...
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Perhaps I will not - otherwise the court (tribunal) is too harsh here ... they will also be sentenced to something ... (if only in a private conversation, for those who wish)
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Well, I joked about humor. Show, do not be afraid.
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For those who wish - for example, here are sports photos ... Nikon D7100 was shot - Sport mode, something in Jpeg, something in RAW. Slightly processed in the standard Nikon program
Lens - Nikon 70-200 VR II
http://volley-foto.ru/zareche-odincovo-vs-dinamo-krasnodar/
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Well, the Sport mode coped well with dynamic scenes - aperture at full: 2,8, shutter speed 1/500, auto ISO up to 1600, you would have set something like this yourself, maybe the aperture would have been tightened for sharpness. It is not clear why VR is turned on, with FR 70mm and 1/500?
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Thanks for the comment - VR is on - because I didn't know at that moment that it was better to turn it off - the experts later enlightened))) I'll try to manually set such settings, because tomorrow I will shoot in the same room and under the same lighting. How to tighten the diaphragm - to reduce it?
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Well, yes, reduce to 3,5 for example. True, I don’t have such a lens :(, I don’t know its properties, but usually with sharpening the hole the sharpness increases (and the depth of field too). And can the shutter speed be increased to 300-250 to show the movement somewhere? Honestly I don’t know, I’m not from the sport, so Mr. Pastor, if he responded, he would enlighten me.
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Yes, I shoot in series - there is CH mode, then the selection of the best shots ... thanks for the comments
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not bad
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I also often use continuous shooting, and who will tell you what to do with the flash? It does not have time to recharge so quickly and it turns out one frame is good, the rest is dark.
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Use external flash
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Hello everyone. Arkady (or someone who knows), please tell me why in the "single-frame" mode, sometimes a series of frames is shot. Nikon cameras.
Thank you
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"1. S - standart mode "
“Single”, not Standart
–High speed ...
–Low speed ...
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Fixed
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Thank you very much. Sensibly, only you found how to enable continuous shooting on the D90
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Arkady I have a question. He shot a photo shoot with serial shooting. The model made 5 images of 150 frames each. Then he took off the next model and then the third. In the same mode. And suddenly, when you press the shutter, it stops working. Turned off the fotik. After a couple of minutes, turned it on again. Working. Again begins to refuse. In single-frame mode, it works. What was it? Tell me. Isn't Nikon D-7100's camera broken?
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Hello, thanks for another helpful article!
I wanted to ask.
Is the “rate of fire” the same for continuous shooting in aiming modes through OVI and through LiveView? Subjectively, it seems that when using LV, the shutter clicks occur less often than when aiming through the OVI, and the first click with LV occurs after a longer interval of time. When using JVI, the first click is instant. However, then you look at the pictures - and you see that at LV as well, everything moving was successfully photographed ... Some kind of paradox.
Your opinion is interesting.
You can take the Nikon d3500 / d3400 as an example.
Thank you.
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