This photo trick gives alternative automatic flash method and a simple radio synchronizer.
A simple method of working with a radio synchronizer
Cheap radio synchronizers for external (e.g. Yongnuo RF-603N or Yongnuo RF-602N) flashes do not know how to work in TTL auto modes... This means that these synchronizers can only 'ignite' the flash when the shutter is released, but they prevent the camera from calculating the required flash output for the correct exposure... Usually the camera does not even 'know' that a radio synchronizer is being used, and the shooting itself is performed with a flash. In practice, to solve the problem correctly exposure you just need to install on external flash desired pulse power, and select the shooting parameters on the camera - at the moment of shooting, the radio synchronizer (trigger) will simply launch a remote flash, which will fire with a predetermined power.
So that the remote flash can work in TTL auto modesExpensive TTL synchronizers exist, just as an extension cord for a flash allows. They allow you to make 'online' radio contact between the flash and the camera, as if external flash It would not be 10 meters from the camera, but on the camera itself. But the price of such devices sometimes rolls over.
For flash owners Nikon SB-800, SB-900, SB-910 you can still get the flash to work automatically when using a primitive trigger. For example, I use a simple trigger Yongnuo RF-602N (receiver and transmitter). On the external flash mode 'A' is activated - aperture-priority auto without TTL. The light indicator on the flash itself calculates the desired flash pulse power when a signal is triggered by a trigger.
In order to set the correct operation of the flashes Nikon SB-800, SB-900, SB-910 you need:
- On the flash, turn on the mode indicated by the letter 'A'
- In the flash menu, set the ISO at which you plan to shoot
- On the flash, set the value of the F number at which shooting is planned
- Set the zoom position of the flash head according to the lens
- Turn the flash with the illumination indicator in the direction in which shooting will be performed.
In this way, the ISO, aperture, and zoom are programmed in the flash itself. Using these parameters and the built-in sensor, the flash can independently determine the pulse power. This method is very convenient to use in low light conditions.
This method of working with flash has several limitations:
- Automatic aperture-priority mode for Nikon flashes only works for flashes Nikon SB-800, SB-900, SB-910 and does not work on amateur flash units SB-400, SB-600, SB-700
- When changing settings on the camera, you need to approach the flashes and make your own adjustments
- The mode works worse than TTL mode
- You need to manually set the exposure pair on the camera, since the camera does not know that it works with the flash. It turns out that you need to shoot in manual mode on the camera.
- For each external flash requires your own radio receiver
- This mode does not support high speed flash sync and a bunch of other subtleties
Personal experience:
Personally, I do not use such a trick, but perhaps it will be useful for many amateur photographers who are not used to the full manual exposure control when working with flashes. It’s more convenient for me to use a trigger with manual flash output adjustment or use Nikon CLS. When using this photo-trick with an umbrella to the light, the flash very poorly guesses the desired pulse power.
Conclusions:
Some Nikon flashes can make work in automatic modewhile using cheap radio synchronizers without TTL modes. How to do this is described above. This method has limitations, but it can sometimes help out the photographer :)
Do not forget to press the buttons ↓↓↓ social networks ↓↓↓ - it is important for me. Thank you for your attention. Arkady Shapoval.
I actively use this method of lighting, especially indoors. A flash with a photodetector on a monopod from above (right-left according to the situation), the second (on the camera) I highlight the shadows received from the first.
As always - interesting! And I have this question: how to make the D5100 and SB-900 synchronize with shutter speeds greater than 1/250? If it has already been discussed, you can link how to implement it?
Unfortunately - in any way, the camera does not support high-speed sync, which Nikon calls FP.
Hello Arkady)
I would like to ask you about a sore point) If you or someone from your acquaintances has dealt with the replacement of the focusing screen in the central control center with that of the KatzEye company, Chinese manufacturers or alterations from Soviet film cameras (Zenith, in particular, I read about the 19th, or Kiev), could tell us, lovers of manual optics, how to make this change. It is painful to focus well on the micro-raster and Doden wedges when working with non-autofocus lenses compared to what is in the current CZK. On the Internet, everything is piece by piece, but how to make such a pleasure is to eat.
I'd love to get such information from you ..
We hope, we wait)
I sawed through the zenith on the canon 400d. I ordered a Chinese one with wedges - it's generally bad, you can't really see anything on it. Zenith, though dark, but it shows a micro-raster and focusing on it. on the Chinese microraster some kind of left, really nothing is visible, on a closed diaphragm the wedges turn black. in the end I threw out the money, I use the self-made Zenit one.
Thanks for another piece of information) So, with ET it is also possible .. And the wedges darken everywhere with a diaphragm larger than 5.6 and higher. KatzEye has models that don’t get dark until f11, but I don’t have that kind of money. So I think from Kiev 19M take f. screen, a clean raster spot. I found out, then at z. They still have an arsenal of 120UAH (or an inoperative carcass of 19m Kiev with such a screen at the same price). At the zenith, the raster is small, larger in Kiev. the process of replacement in digital is a little scary))
It is not the replacement process that should scare you, but the sawing process. The problem is that not only is the Zenith larger, but it is also thicker and stands the other way around. That is, you must first cut out the contour. I took my multi-point one, applied it to the zenith one to hit the center, then outlined it with a sharp needle. Then he filed the contour with the ears with a file. But after that, he falls into place, but the focus does not fall. It needs to be deepened closer to the prism, but how? You need to shoot 0.5-1 mm in the plane (I don't remember exactly how much). And then you wrap it with scotch tape (paper or ordinary) and sharpen the plane from the edge. But then there is a trick - tk. the screen itself is thick, red dots are visible on it as on a native one. Blurred of course, but nevertheless, focus confirmation works and is visible.
Sawing was no more difficult than pulling it out of the zenith. Look for the instructions before that, I didn’t succeed, although I have always been repairing any complex devices and it is not a problem for me to disassemble them. But with the zenith came a quirk. Unpredictable thoughts of Soviet developers ...
Hello. I am also very interested in the question of replacing the focusing screen. Information is fragmentary. But if with lenses I risk and saw through, because the price of a penny on Soviet lenses, or in general a bunch of houses lie, then climb inside the camera oh reluctantly)) And there are also devices that increase the visible part in the viewfinder. They also say that they help to cope with focus. Do people have opinions on this?
No. If it shows 0.95 images, then you can increase it, but expensive. Approximately 500-1000 usd. :) Just buy a camera where it is 100%. You can increase using eyecups with increase. they are described on the pages of this site or Yevtifeyev (I do not remember). With an increase, it’s easier to focus on the manual.
By the way, Yongnuo got a TTL radio synchronizer YN622N for Nikon and YN622C for Canon, respectively, cost 100 US rubles per pair, as they say, it works for all 400 American rubles, so if anyone suits the price, I advise you, I plan to order it myself in speed
About the trigger: yes, some kind of garbage. Couldn't the Chinese just provide a radio channel extension cord before the outbreak. Why expose something if all parameters are transmitted via the interface ...
I see, just did not encounter such a problem.
No, I haven't. While photographing with the device. Remote start is triggered by the first puff that measures, so I can't use it remotely with a DSLR, but I tried it with a phone - interesting pictures are obtained. Well, about the extension cord - so, reasoning out loud. Perhaps in the future they will still think out their schemes. The mice are wireless, so you can do it. There, too, the parameters are transmitted coordinates and movement speed.
It seems to me that the whole problem of expensive radio synchronizers is in the marketing policy ... The prices for them are overstated on purpose ... In fact, they should have been built into cameras for a long time and puffs from the very beginning ... It's very simple now)))
trigger (Pixel King) on the camera and on the flash (in master mode) => 2 flashes in slave mode ... .. Question: is there such a scheme? Will 2 flash fire in CLS mode?
PS camera d7000, flash sat 700
PS PS I want to try it myself, but unfortunately there are no 2 flashes and no one has taken it yet)))
Thanks, Regards Eugene.
Hello. I have a Nikon d750 camera, Nikon 900 flash, Sync Youngnow 560 Pro. How to connect a flash through sync? Is this even possible?