The essence of a polarizing filter is very simple - such a filter is capable of delay reflected polarized light... For example, reflected light from water, glass, etc. can be blocked, thereby making water and glass transparent. But the filter's capabilities are not limited to this.
Polarizing filter
The polarizing filter itself consists of two parts - movable and fixed. The fixed part of the filter is screwed into the thread of the lens filter. The movable part can rotate 360 degrees freely. Through front rotation polarization filter is the adjustment of the filter for a certain type of polarized light, and at the same time with its delay by such a filter. Due to the fact that the filter is connected with the rotation of the front part, such a filter is best used on lenses with an internal focusing system. If the front lens of the lens rotates with the lens at the lens, this introduces inconvenience when working with a polarizing filter.
The polarizing filter can be wound onto protective filter. You can wear a lens cap on the polarizing filter, or you can add some other filter. The only thing, the more filters are screwed into each other, the greater the probability of getting vignetting at the corners of the image. Some polarizing filters may not have threads on their front.
That pick up a polarizing filter for the lens, you must know the diameter of the thread of the lens under the filter. For example, a standard lens for the Nikon CZK Nikon 18-55mm f / 3.5-5.6G VR has a diameter of 52mm, and it needs a polarizing filter with a diameter of 52mm. This may seem ridiculous, but many people can’t choose a filter because they don’t know if it fits their lens. The effect of the polarizing filter can be seen on any lens.
Some features:
- The polarizing filter does not transmit reflected polarized light. This is the main property of the filter; it can be used in a large number of situations. For example, using a polarizing filter, you can remove glare from the water (light reflected from the water) and photograph the bottom.
Sea bottom with different position of PL-CIR filter
- The filter also removes reflections of the blue sky from the earth, grass, leaves. The sky adds extra cool tones (blue, cyan) to the photo. When using a polarizing filter, everything acquires a warmer and more natural color. Lung color changes can be traced to other examples.
Different colors at different positions of the polarizing filter
- When using a polarizing filter for subject shooting, it is possible to reduce glare on the subject.
- Such a filter allows you to achieve a pleasant blue sky with white clouds. Due to the small particles in the air, the light of the sky is partly polarized. In general, the effect appears more saturated colors.
Sky when using a polarizing filter. The filter allows you to align the luminosity of the sky and provides a slightly different color rendering of greenery.
- In general, a polarizing filter works like a neutral filter, passing less light. For example, with a polarizing filter you can easily shoot on a bright dayusing aperture F / 1.4 with a shutter speed of 1/4000 s and ISO 100 will be enough for correct exposure without overexposure. Many people overlook the fact that, in any case, a polarizing filter reduces the luminous flux. In low light conditions, I recommend shooting the polarizer so that the lens can receive more light. A combination of ND and PL filters is very interesting to use.
Long excerpt. When using a polarizing filter, you can significantly increase the shutter speed, which can serve, for example, for the effect of smoothness of water in photographs.
- If you turn the circular polarizing filter back to front, you can get a neutral filter, when you rotate around its axis, you can shift such a filter white balance in warm and cold tones, while the polarizing filter stops blocking polarized light.
The color of grass and leaves when using a polarizing filter on a bright sunny day
- When using polarization filters with a linear type of polarization on modern digital SLR cameras, serious measurement errors can occur exposure and focus accuracy. It is treated by manually adjusting the focus and exposure. But when using filters with circular polarization some special problems with measurement exposure and focus accuracy I don’t observe.
Water clarity by filtering glare from the filter
The operation of the polarizing filter is easy to see using a conventional computer monitor. The display light is always polarized in a certain plane, and with the help of a polarizing filter it is easy to remove it as shown in the example below:
An example of a polarizing filter
The polarizing filters themselves are of two types - with linear and circular polarization. In general, circularly polarized filters are better. I don't want to repeat myself, this has already been written many times, for example here.
An abbreviated polarizing filter is called a 'PL filter' or simply 'polarizing'. A good polarizer is not cheap. As usual, the more expensive the filter, the better it is. However, inexpensive polarizers are also suitable for amateur photography. For example, I am using Hoya 58mm PL-CIR Made in Japan. My colleagues say that very high quality polarics are B + W and Rodenstock, but very often the difference between the cheaper Hoya, Marumi, Kenko is very difficult to feel.
Conclusions:
A polarizing filter is an interesting and useful device for achieving unique effects in photographs. Such a filter is an indispensable thing for shooting landscapes, outdoor work in sunlight, etc.
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Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
And here the sun falls at an angle of 45 degrees and not even that, although the water turned out to be transparent
The people, if anyone spoke with the polar explorer Kenko, I ask for impressions.
In my city I saw only Kenko, when checking for "lice" on the monitor, did not pass the test ...
I have Kenko Pro1D and Marumi - both work great. But Flama deshovaya does not completely filter and in addition distorts the color. Pictures have a dirty brown tint.
Kenko has competing filters only on the Pro1D series, the rest is very different in quality.
My brother brought to me from Germany the polarist GODE CPL SLIM, on a TV set with a radiation tube it did not work. Although I tried to take a picture, it turned out even nothing, excellent.
And why should he "work", the picture tube light is not polarized.
Come to the mirror, turn on the light, although it is better in the reverse order, it’s cheaper. Look at the filter like a monocle. The outer side of the eye, the inner side of the mirror. If the filter in the reflection is opaque, turned into a black circle, then this is a filter with circular polarization. If the filter in the reflection is transparent, then either you turned it on the wrong side or it is a linear filter.
Tell me, those in the know! My polarizer significantly "removes" the sharpness of the photo .. Is this filter not of high quality or am I doing something wrong?
That's right, cheap polarists are guilty of this, but this is noticeable mainly when used for macro or vice versa in telephoto at distant objects. If you use such a polarizer at a wide angle for the landscape, then it looks very good, well, except of course in cases when the polarik is openly defective.
Many have heard about polarizing filters, about which legends already circulate and to which mystical properties are attributed. Why do we need a polarizing filter and how to use it?
That is, you write a comment on an article that you have not even read?
Why read it. This is harmful to health and the psyche)))))))
Arkady, will he replace a polarik - an ND filter, especially on a width (17-35 mm)? Dyakuyu.
Only in part and only a little, if you shoot in the shade and with a covered diaphragm. The polarik has a slightly different function.
And if two polariks at the same time? ;)
hundreds of different options: from zero to completely black. depends on polarization angles.
if you use two pieces with linear polarization, rotating them relative to each other, you can get the necessary shading
Where can I find them now, linear, only circular around.
Two in one sold. You twist the thread and it darkens to black. I took a Vivitar 77mm for myself, I used the prada only once and now it is lying around idle.
In the circular one, the front is linear, followed by a depolarizer.
Two doesn't roll, three just right.)
For complete blackness, you can simply use the lens cap.
There are two polariks, one was presented, the second came with a bonus with 35 1,8, / g, a couple of words about the first one:
GREEN.L CPL SERIES dND Digital RoHS Standartds. and
2nd: MARUMI 52mm MIC CP.L made in Japan - (this inscription on the filter housing)
yes and still please, as I understand it, adjusting the polarizer, you need to rotate the front glass, the windows in it are double, I understood correctly. and how to rotate, gloved, w / h handkerchief or what? sorry if that stupidly wrote.
Enough clean fingers, I think. It is appropriate to use it when the sun is shining from the side, and it makes sense to remove the reflected light from water, greenery, sky, for this purpose, frame the frame and rotate the ring to dim the light (and change color) of the indicated objects.
Valery A. Thank you, I will know, otherwise I remembered a case from the Soviet period, my brother and I came to my parents in the village. brother brought a gun with him and left it in the room. returning to the room, he was stunned: his father examined the gun while holding it in his hands, his brother shouted: “Dad, you washed your hands”! so I am talking about glass S / F-ra ...
Of course, not for glass, but for the frame on the sides they are taken, keep in mind.
Thanks! looked and tried ...
Thanks for the very helpful information.
I am pleased to re-read your articles. The manner and logic of the presentation of the material in an easy and understandable form impresses. Many seemingly familiar technical issues,
disclosed from a different, more understandable angle.
Greetings. But nevertheless, with external focusing, you can apply polarics. And how? In the process, you will constantly need to tighten up? And what about round gradients? Already in any way? After all, they are completely twisted along the thread. Please tell me for a beginner
The polar can be gently held by the outer ring in the selected position when focusing. By turning after focusing, you can knock it down.
I am writing here because I do not see the topics on the nd filter separately. The problem is as follows. To the lens 18-35 I purchased a variable density md filter. But at all values it gives the so-called X effect. The seller honestly returned the money and assures that out of the sold (!!! 400 pcs), only 4 including mine gave such a marriage. Allegedly a wide angle can give such a result paired with an nd filter. But 18-35 can be positioned as landscape. What to do? Buy top filters? Or is it a matter of compatibility of this lens with an nd filter?
Buy a permanent ND filter. And no X effect.
Che the author smoked. The sixth point is generally nonsense.
For those who read in the future)
If you turn the filter over and rotate it, the color shade of polarized light will change! This can be clearly seen if you do this in front of the monitor.
Hello. Can you say something about the ExtraDigital CPL polarizer (http://got.by/2o7axg) Ukrainian manufacturer. I choose between him and Hoya TEK Pol-Circ Slim (http://got.by/2o7aze) Maybe tell me something else from the amateur polarists of this price category.
Also a question about pencils for cleaning lenses and filters, is there any difference which one to take (manufacturers, specifications, etc.). Can I just use a cloth. Generally interested in your experience and recommendations in this matter.
Thank you.
These are budget filters, + are similar. Do not rack your brains, take any. Pencils - no difference. Better with a cloth (more comfortable and lasts for a longer period).
the whole point of the polarizer is not in suppressing glare, but in the ability to set a slower shutter speed. You can draw out more shades in bright light. A short shutter speed will not give that depth than a good shutter speed with a polarizer.
Unfortunately, the direct purpose of the polarik is still different. You are more describing the work of the polaric as a neutral ND filter. Polarik is primarily for re-reflections (this is not necessarily glare), color control (just the depth appears due to the fact that there are no stray lights), and lowering the exposure is already a by-product.
Do you think that a short exposure camera is enough to capture more shades?
With such thoughts, we can say that fast lenses with wide apertures will give a bad image, because you need to shoot with them at very short shutter speeds. But with dark lenses there will be many shades, because you need to use longer shutter speeds with them.
Only on very ancient cameras, such as Kodak 14n or the very first ssd cameras, there was a slight dependence in noise and dd on exposure, there was a slight decrease in quality at short exposures, in the region of 1/2000 s. In modern cameras, with the same values of ISO and equal exposure (histogram, roughly speaking) dd, noise and color do not depend on shutter speed.
Hello! Tell me, please, with what (which items) does this filter not work?
Reflections from metal surfaces, for example.
And here is an unusual use of polarizers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTOKZtRkW2I
Do you know that with their help you can
getting completely different images ...
Hello.
Tell me a normal polar with Ali for Nikon, glass 18-140.
I will be grateful for the reference.
Ali has no normal polarics. A cheap polaric gives parasitic shades (yellow, for example) and absorbs too much light. I was not satisfied with any "Chinese", they spoiled the picture more than helped. The really “normal” ones are Hoya, Tiffen or Marumi. I have a lot of lenses, so I did it simply - I took a set of adapter rings for all sizes and two polarizers - 77 and 58 mm + two non-brand caps. Since they are used very rarely (a landscape at a not very wide angle or a shiny surface), and my main glasses are just in size 77 and 58, it suited me.
I have only one hoya hd cir-pl 77 mm pole and adapter rings up to 52 mm. Satisfied with the result. When buying Tiffen did not consider at all.
I recommend to view
http://evtifeev.com/11245-pro-polyarizatsionnyie-filtryi-carl-zeiss-b-w-hoya-marumi.html
Tell me please, is it possible to simply use the 67mm pole to use it on a 50mm lens?
You need to learn the mat part. The diameter of the thread for the filters is in no way connected with the focal length of 50mm of the lens itself. Suppose you have a canon / nikon lens with a focal length of 50 mm and a thread diameter of 58 mm for filters. Also you have a 67 mm PL filter. Diameters are different, right? 58 and 67? The easiest option is to buy an adapter ring 58-67 mm. Screw it on to the lens, and then a light filter.
Is it possible to apply (a filter to the lens)?
It is possible, but how will you twist one of its parts, leaving the second motionless. That you need to grow the 3rd hand, well, or buy an adapter for 100r. I don’t even know which is easier)).
Fixed part - threaded frame. You need to twist the entire light filter (actually - a glass). If you just apply, you can get extra flare if you do not fit tightly
And the filter damaged due to scratches ...
Knowledgeable people tell me whether a polarizer kills a boke?
Do you need to? Why?
Partly yes. It kills glare, which in the blur zone turns into bokeh.
Yes, an acquaintance of mine once did 10 bokeh in a row and that's it - a polarik for emission
I don’t get it.
Hello!
I ask you to tell me, who knows, is it possible to somehow distinguish the original filter from a fake by external signs? Or in practice when photographing, the result will be the same from both filters? Found Kenko on Avito, and I don’t know the real one or not.
In most cases, you will not notice the difference between a cheap and an expensive filter. Both perform their task in the same way, but ... you will not shoot in the backlight yet. Expensive filters (including UV filters) have high-quality multilayer coating. Cheap ones do not have enlightenment at all and can catch "birds with one stone."
Therefore, there is no concept - the original and the fake. There are cheap and expensive ones.
It is very easy to determine the visual quality by looking at the glass of the filter with the reflection of light from a table lamp. Cheap has no color. Enlightened has a color.
The cost is several times different. For example, 77 polarizer B + W on Ali took for 25 cu
The same “no name” - $ 3-5
On Ali, by definition, there are no original filters B + W
I am trying to understand, to find out ... In the editor, can you solve the problem with which the polarik copes? For reference: marumi costs 30 bucks.
Probably not editable. I will add. I read that the entire filter is for about a year, then for discharge, because wear out.
The first polarik took the year that way in 2008-2009. Nothing happened to him, it works.
In addition to darkening the sky (which can be done in the editor, of course, if there is no overexposure), the polarik removes the blue on the foliage of the trees, makes it greener, and this is not so easy to do in the editor. In short, in some cases it is possible to simulate the operation of the polarizing filter using a photo editor, and in some it is not.
Regarding the original non-original: for a long time (approximately 2011-2012) I took a Hoya UV (0) protective filter, and in 2018 I took the exact same filter, the same size 67mm. The boxes are the same, there are holograms. The filters are very similar, but the font on the rim is different. So, the new filter glare a little more than the old one, although the MS is visually present (checked on one lens).
Yes and no. It depends on what problem you are trying to solve them. If you remove the glare and make the water (glass) transparent, then no. If you make the sky more contrasting, then you can wind something similar. Filters do not last a year, unless you wipe them on your pants, of course. In inexpensive models, as a rule, the coating is poorly protected and they “wipe off”, but about a year is very strong
You cannot get this effect in the editor. The polarik removes glare from the surface of the water so that the bottom of the reservoir becomes visible. See an example.
And now with the filter
I have two lenses Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G DX and Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G. I was looking for a polarizing filter on them 52 and 67mm. On Avito in a nearby town there are Marumi 52mm and dicom 58mm. I don’t need 58mm as a be, but the owner doesn’t sell one at a time, only in bulk for 900r.
Says he didn't use them. How much lies, did not answer. Is this filter worth it? What should I pay attention to when buying? Does this filter degrade on its own over time?
I read the thread, but it was about this filter that there was meager info only on the first page.
If possible, describe step by step how to test these filters before buying. Haven't dealt with them before.
There is also a Polarizing filter Fujimi CPL Slim 67mm, but in another city. Is it suitable for Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G?
Hello, friends. The question is. 2 lenses: 55-240 (sony) and 70-300 (nikon). Both, respectively, on their cameras. Hoya pro polars on both. The problem with sharpness at large focuses: everything is blurry. If you close the aperture by 16-18 or more, then sharpness appears. Naturally, without filters, all the rules and it's not in my golden trembling hands. In general, the essence of the question is: is this normal in general, is it supposed to be like this, or are the filters guano? On Sonya I put 18-55 on the lens - everything seems to be normal. And at 55-240, it blurs somewhere at 240. For the purpose of verification, I put exactly the same filter of the appropriate diameter on Nikkor 70-300vr and here the picture is the same ... Help me figure it out and if there are filters without loss of sharpness on televisions - advise. It’s a pity sometimes to lose cool shots, and indeed, there shouldn’t be such a disgrace