Review Tokina AT-X 116 PRO SD 11-16mm F2.8 (IF) DX II

For the opportunity Tokina AT-X 116 PRO lens review SD 11-16mm F2.8 (IF) DX II Aspherical Many thanks to Nikon for Artyom Salekh who sent me a lens for viewing from another area.

Tokina AT-X 116 PRO SD 11-16mm F2.8 (IF) DX II Aspherical Review

Review of Tokina AT-X 116 PRO SD 11-16mm F2.8 (IF) DX II Aspherical

Tokina AT-X PRO Lens SD 11-16mm F2.8 (IF) Dx ii and his younger brother Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-16mm F2.8 (IF) DX Are unique wide-angle APS-C cameras. Why unique? Because neither Nikon nor Canon has such an ultra-wide angle for APS-C cameras with such aperture.

Main technical characteristics of Tokina AT-X 116 PRO SD 11-16mm F2.8 (IF) DX II Aspherical N / AIS:

The name of the instance from the review (as it is written on the lens itself) Tokina AT-X 116 PRO SD 11-16mm F2.8 (IF) DX II Aspherical N/AIS
Basic properties
  • lens designed for cropped cameras Nikon DX
  • built-in micro focus motor
  • low dispersion elements are used in the optical design tokina SD (Super low Ddispersion)
  • aspherical - the optical design uses aspherical elements
  • special enlightenment of Tokina lenses MC (Multi-Coating)
  • the lens belongs to the professional Tokina line AT-X Pro (Advanced Technology - EXbetween PROprofessional)
  • One-touch focus clutch
  • internal focus
  • actually internal zoom
  • lack of an aperture control ring, analog Nikon G
  • Maximum relative aperture 1: 2.8 over the entire range of focal lengths
Front Filter Diameter 77 mm
Focal length 11-16 mm EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 16.5-24 mm
Zoom ratio 1.45 x
Designed by for Nikon APS-C digital cameras
Number of aperture blades 9 rounded petals
Tags window with focusing distance in meters and feet, focal lengths for 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 mm, bayonet mount mark. Hood Attachment Mark
Diaphragm from f / 2.8 over the entire range of focal lengths to f / 22
MDF (minimum focusing distance) 0.3 m, the maximum magnification ratio is reached by 16 mm and is 1: 11.6
The weight 550 g
Optical design 13 elements in 11 groups. The scheme includes 2 low dispersion elements (shown in blue on the optical diagram), as well as 2 aspherical element (shown in pink in the optical diagram). The presence of such elements is indicated on the body by the abbreviations 'SD' (Super Low Dispersion) and Aspherical.

Optical design Tokina 11-16

The image of the optical circuit is clickable. Optical design similar to lens Tokina 116 AT-X PRO SD 11-16mm F2.8 DX (first version, for Nikon cameras without inboard motor focusing). Also, the same optical scheme is used in the lens Tokina Cinema 11-16mm T3.0.

Lens hood BH-77B
Manufacturer country JAPAN
Period Issued since September 2008. Original non-motorized version Tokina 116 AT-X PRO SD 11-16mm F2.8 DX was introduced in 2007. Subsequently, a replacement / addition in the face Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-20mm F2.8 (IF) DX.
Price

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Tokina AT-X PRO SD The 11-16mm F2.8 (IF) DX II is a wide-angle (ultra-wide-angle) zoom lens that is perfect for anyone who likes to put more space in the frame. The Tokina AT-X 116 DX II is very well made, it immediately feels pleasant in your hands japanese lens... The Tokina AT-X 116 DX II weighs about 560 grams. The optical design consists of 13 elements in 11 groups, 2 elements are aspherical and 2 elements are made of low dispersion glass (Super-low Dispersion - letters SD in the lens name). The Tokina AT-X 116 DX II lens for Nikon cameras is automatically AF-S, G and DX compatible.

Optical design Tokina AT-X 116 PRO SD 11-16mm F2.8 (IF) DX II

Optical design of the Tokina AT-X 116 PRO SD 11-16mm F2.8 (IF) DX II lens

The lens has built-in focus motortherefore Tokina AT-X 116 DX II will automatically focus with all Nikon central locking cameras. When focusing the motor is pretty noisybut auto focus on the lens fast enough. When focusing, the front lens does not move, as the lens has internal focusing system (denoted by 'IF' in the name). Tokina AT-X 116 DX II has very convenient focus mode switch ring (called One-touch Focus Clutch Mechanism - one-touch focus switching mechanism).

Tokina 11-16mm DX II - rear view

Tokina 11-16mm DX II - Back View

To set the manual focus method to 'MF', simply pull the focusing ring towards you. To enable automatic focusing 'AF', simply pull the focusing ring away from you. In manual focus mode, the focus ring rotates 90 degrees. The focusing ring is rubberized, and manual focusing on a wide-angle lens is a snap. In focus mode 'AF', the focus ring rotates freely and does not affect the focus itself. The lens has a focusing distance scale in meters and feet. On the focusing scale, infinity 'starts' at just 1.2m. The minimum focusing distance is 30 centimeters, you can forget about macro on a wide-angle lens. The Tokina AT-X 116 DX I gives an approximate maximum magnification of only 1:12. I wanted the lens to have an even smaller MDF.

It looks like a lens with a lens hood

It looks like a lens with a lens hood

When zooming, the front lens does not remain motionless, and performs light translational movements back and forth. Roughly speaking, when the filter is dressed and / or with a hood on, the lens does not change its physical size. The zoom ring is also rubberized.

Aperture has 9 rounded petals. It was very difficult for me to achieve star ray effect with this lens.

But the lens does not have a depth-of-field scale. When focusing, the lens often freezes in the extreme position, you need to press the focusing button several times for the lens to 'come to life'. The lens uses a 'professional' diameter at 77mm for the front light filter.

Difference between DX and DX II lens versions

  • DX II has a built-in focus motor
  • DX II has improved enlightenment, DX II is already on with such an icon
  • DX II has a different coloring of indicators on the lens
  • According to the description, the DX II has a slightly improved production quality, but I do not really believe in it
  • The weight of the lens differs by a few grams
  • DX II has more microprocessor pins
So different versions of DX and DX II

So different versions of DX and DX II

For Canon, in the new version of DX II, only the enlightenment and the color of the letters on the lens have been changed. When used on Nikon DX cameras EGF lens will be 16,5-24mm, and for Canon APS-C EGF will be 17,6-25,6mm.

Canon Camera Ownersthat came to me to Radozhiv, where the second version of the Tokina AT-X 116 PRO SD 11-16mm F2.8 is described for Nikon cameras, it will be interesting to read the review and test of the Tokina AT-X 116 PRO SD 11-16mm F2.8 of the first version for Canon Systems Online vlador.com.

The lens comes with a BH-77B lens hood. The hood can be worn back-to-front, while losing access to the focus ring.

Sample Photos

All photos taken using protective filter Marumi DHG Super UV 77mm Made in Japan, photo without processing. The lens has a very well corrected distortion of 16 mm and a slightly noticeable distortion of 11 mm. For such an extreme wide angle distortion indicators are very good. Vignetting on Nikon DX cameras is no problem. The lens normally tolerates back and side light, but can catch hares. Lens very sharp, in the corners the sharpness is a little worse. In general, image quality on high.

Additional interesting and useful information (though everything is in English):

  1. Ken rocwell responds well to this lens
  2. Information on the official website
  3. Charts, MTF tables, but only for the first model on Photozone.de
  4. Video - boring lens comparison with Nikon's flagship 14-24mm full frame
  5. Kai wong can always have fun
Full-frame camera example

Full-screen camera example with a hood and filter

Lens may work well on full-frame camerasif used only at 16mm focal length. I used Tokina AT-X 116 DX II on a full-format camera Nikon D700, wherein:

  1. In the range 11-15, a strong darkening of the edges of the image is visible, as shown in the photo above.
  2. At 16mm and a minimum focusing distance, vignetting is noticeable and intensifies when the aperture is closed
  3. At 16mm and focusing on infinity, there is weak vignetting at F / 2.8, when the aperture is closed, the vignetting disappears completely

I was very pleased with the opportunity to shoot with this lens in full frame. True vignetting is enhanced by the use of filters and a hood.

Full-frame camera example

An example on a full-format camera. Left and right are strong sources of backlight. Visible glare bunnies.

Personal impressions

The Tokina AT-X 116 PRO SD 11-16mm F2.8 (IF) DX II is a great lens. Native alternatives for Nikon DX cameras can be Nikon 12-24mm f / 4 DX AF-S и Nikon 10-24 / 3.5-4.5 DX AF-S... In search of a good 'shirik', I advise you to look away Tokina AT-X 124 PRO DX II 12-24mm f4 и Tokina AT-X 128 PRO DX 12-28mm f4.

Real prices for the Tokina AT-X 116 DX / DXII lens can see here, or in the price block below:

All Tokina 11-16 prices

Sample photo on an FX camera

Sample photo on an FX camera. Corners are corrected in the editor.

Using Tokina AT-X 116 DX II is very easy take off, since the wide-angle lens does not require fast shutter speeds. You can even at night take off at 11mm focal length and f / 2.8 aperture. Working with such a wide-angle lens opens up a huge field of creativity - from playing with perspective for small objects to super landscapes.

The lens has everything 1,45x zoomWhen photographing with the Tokina AT-X 116 DX II, you hardly feel the ability to zoom. This is probably the lens with the smallest zoom ratio and this is one of the disadvantages of the Tokina AT-X 116 DX II. With such a lens, you always want to shoot at 11 mm, and sometimes this is not enough, so I do not recommend worrying about the low zoom ratio. A similar zoom ratio is available for the darker analog - Tamron Aspherical LD ​​DI II SP AF 11-18mm 1: 4.5-5.6 [IF] A13... Also, the Tokina AT-X 116 DX II does not have constant manual focus control, such as on Nikon lenses, which have a focus mode 'M / A' (not to be confused with 'M' - 'A').

Alternatives

Below is a list of all ultra-wide angle lenses with auto focus support for cameras with an APS-C sensor (crop Kf = 1.5-1.6X) whose focal length is less than or equal to 14 mm.

Tokina (for different mounts):

With moderate aperture:

  1. Tokina 124 AT-X PRO SD 12-24 mm F4 (IF) DX Aspherical, for Nikon F, Canon EFS
  2. promaster Digital af 12-24 XR EDO F4 Aspherical, previous lens under the 'ProMaster' brand
  3. Tokina 124 AT-X PRO SD 12-24 mm F4(IF)DX II aspherical, for Nikon F, Canon EFS
  4. Tokina 128 AT-X Pro SD 12-28 mm F4 (IF) DX Aspherical, for Nikon F, Canon EFS
  5. Tokina AT-X PRO SD 12-28 F4 (IF) DX V, Canon EFS only

Aperture:

  1. Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-16 F2.8 (IF) DX ASPHERICAL, since 2007, for Nikon F, Canon EFS, Sony A
  2. Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-16 F2.8(IF)DX II ASPHERICAL, since 2008, for Nikon F, Canon EFS, Sony A
  3. Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-16 F2.8 (IF) DX V, for Nikon F, Canon EFS
  4. Tokina atx-i 11-16mm F2.8CF, since 2019, for Nikon F, Canon EFS, black/white
  5. Tokina atx-m 11-18mm F2.8E, since 2022, for Sony E, black/white
  6. Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-20 F2.8 (IF) DX ASPHERICAL, from 2014, for Nikon F, Canon EFS
  7. Tokina atx-i 11-20mm F2.8CF, since 2020, for Nikon F, Canon EFS, black/white
  8. Tokina AT-X PRO SD 14-20mm F2 (IF) DX, from 2015, for Nikon F, Canon EFS

fisheye:

  1. Tokina 107 Fisheye 10-17 mm F3.5-4.5DX AT-X, for Nikon F, Canon EFS
  2. Tokina 107 Fisheye 10-17 mm F3.5-4.5 DX NH AT-X, for Nikon F, Canon EFS
  3. Tokina 107 Fisheye 10-17 F3.5-4.5 DX AT-X V NH, Canon EFS only

Tamron (for different mounts):

  1. Tamron SP 10-24 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 Di II B001, from October 2008, for Nikon F, Canon EFS, Pentax K, Sony A. Japan / China / Vietnam
  2. Tamron 10-24 mm F/3.5-4.5 Diii VC HLD-B023, from February 2017, for Nikon F and Canon EFS
  3. Tamron Aspherical LD ​​DI II SP AF 11-18 mm 1: 4.5-5.6 [IF] A13, since 2005, for Nikon F, Canon EFS, Sony A. Konica Minolta AF DT Zoom 11-18mm 1: 4.5 (22) -5.6 D and Sony 4.5-5.6 / 11-18 DT (SAL1118) lenses are built on the same optical scheme )
  4. Promaster Digital EDO AF Aspherical LD ​​(IF) 11-18 mm 1: 4.5-5.6, previous lens under the 'ProMaster' brand
  5. Tamron 11-20 mm F / 2.8 Di III-A RXD B060, from April 2021, only for Sony E

Sigma (for different mounts):

  1. Sigma 4.5 mm 1: 2.8 EX DC HSM CIRCULAR FISHEYE, since 2007 for Canon EFS, Sigma SA and Nikon F. Since 2008 for Pentax K and Sony / Minolta A
  2. Sigma 10 mm 1: 2.8 DC FISHEYE HSM, from 2007 for Canon EFS, Sigma SA and Nikon F. In 2008 a version for Pentax K and Sony / Minolta A was released
  3. Sigma 8-16 mm 1:4.5-5.6 DC HSM, since 2010, Canon EFS, Nikon F, Pentax K, Sigma SA, Sony/Minolta A
  4. Sigma 10-20 mm 1: 4-5.6 DC EX [+ -HSM, + -D], since 2005 for Canon EFS, Sigma SA, Nikon F, Pentax K and Sony / Minolta A. Since 2008 for 4/3 SLR system. 'D' prefix for select Nikon and Sony / Minolta A only. HSM motor only available for Canon EFS, Sigma SA, Nikon F and 4/3. The Pentax K and Sony / Minolta A versions have a different appearance (there is no focusing distance window). There are two sub-versions: with a matte finish and with a velvet finish on the body.
  5. Sigma 10-20 mm 1: 3.5 DC HSM EX, since 2009, for Canon EFS, Nikon F, Pentax K, Sigma SA, Sony / Minolta A
  6. SIGMA 10-18 mm 1:2.8 DC DN C, from 2023, for Sony E, FujiFilm X and Leica L

Nikon DX (for Nikon F mount):

  1. Nikon DX AF Fisheye Nikkor 10.5 mm 1: 2.8G ED
  2. Nikon DX VR AF-P Nikkor 10-20 mm 1: 4.5-5.6G
  3. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 10-24 mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED SWM IF Aspherical
  4. Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 12-24 mm 1: 4G ED SWM IF Aspherical
  5. Nikon Nikkor ZDX 12-28mm 1:3.5-5.6PZ VR

Canon EF-S / EF-M

EF-S (Mirror APS-C)

  1. Canon Zoome Lens EF-S 10-18 mm 1: 4.5-5.6 IS STM
  2. Canon Zoom Lens EF-S 10-22 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 USM

EF-M (Mirrorless APS-C)

  1. Canon Zoom Lens EF-M 11-22 mm 1: 4-5.6 IS STM [2013]

RF-S (mirrorless APS-C)

  1. CANON LENS RF-S 10-18mm F4.5-6.3 IS STM [2023]

Pentax DA (+ Samsung / Schneider-Kreuznach, for Pentax K mount):

  1. SMC Pentax-DA 1: 2.8 (22) 14 mm ED [IF] (Pentax 14)
  2. SMC Pentax-DA FISH-EYE 1: 3.5-4.5 10-17 mm ED [IF] (Pentax 10-17) (FISHEYE, most likely optically identical Tokina Model 107)
  3. HD Pentax-DA FISH-EYE 1: 3.5-4.5 10-17 mm (FISHEYE, most likely optically similar to Tokina 107 NH)
  4. HD PENTAX-DA * 1: 2.8 11-18 mm ED DC AW
  5. SMC Pentax-DA 1: 4 12-24 mm ED AL [IF] (Pentax 12-24) (most likely optically identical Tokina Model 124)
  6. Samsung Zoom Lens Fisheye D-Xenon 10-17 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 AL, copy Pentax 10-17optical scheme from Tokina Model 107
  7. Samsung Zoom Lens D-Xenon 1: 4 12-24 mm ED ALcopy Pentax 12-24optical scheme from Tokina Model 124
  8. Schneider-Kreuznach D-Xenogon 1: 3.5-4.5 10-17 mm ED AL, copy Pentax 10-17optical scheme from Tokina Model 107
  9. Schneider-Kreuznach D-Xenon 1: 4 12-24 mm ED AL, copy Pentax 12-24optical scheme from Tokina Model 124

Sony / Minolta (A or E):

E-mount (E):

  1. Sony E 4 /10-18 OSS (2012)
  2. Sony E 4 /10-20G PZ (2022)
  3. Sony E 1.8 /11 (2022)

A-mount (A):

  1. Sony 4.5-5.6 /11-18 DT (SAL1118) (most likely optically identical Tamron model a13)
  2. Konica Minolta AF DT Zoom 11-18 mm 1: 4.5 (22) -5.6 D (most likely optically identical Tamron model a13)

Samsung NX

  1. Samsung Lens 1: 3.5 10 mm Fisheye
  2. Samsung Lens 1: 4-5.6 12-24 mm ED I-FUNCTION

Fujifilm x

  1. FUJINON ASPHERICAL LENS SUPER EBC XF 8 mm 1:3.5RWR
  2. FUJINON ASPHERICAL LENS SUPER EBC XF 14 mm 1: 2.8 R
  3. FUJINON ASPHERICAL LENS NANO-GI XF 8-16 mm 1: 2.8 R LM WR
  4. FUJINON ASPHERICAL LENS SUPER EBC XF 10-24 mm 1: 4 R OIS
  5. FUJINON ASPHERICAL LENS SUPER EBC XF 10-24 mm 1: 4 R OIS WR

Zeiss (E / X)

  1. ZEISS Distagon Touit 2.8 /12 T* (Sony E-mount, Fujifilm X-mount)

VILTROX (E/X/Z)

  1. Viltrox AF 13mm 1: 1.4 STM ASPH ED IF C (2021, Sony E-mount, Fujifilm X-mount, Nikon Z-mount)

Leica CL/TL/T/L

  1. Leica SUPER-VARIO-ELMAR-T 1: 3.5-4.5 /11-23 ASPH. (2014)
  2. Leica SUPER-VARIO-ELMAR-TL 1: 3.5-4.5 /11-23 ASPH. (2014)

Samyang (E / X)

  1. Samyang AF 12/2E + Samyang AF 12/2X (2021, Sony E-mount, Fujifilm X-mount)

Yongnuo (E/X/Z)

Yongnuo 11mm 1:1.8 DA DSM WL S/X/Z (2023, Sony E-mount, Fujifilm X-mount, Nikon Z-mount)

Do you know more similar lenses? Or do you have experience with any of them? Then be sure to share your thoughts in the comments.

Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.

Conclusions:

If you need good wide-angle aperture zoom for Nikon DX cameras - for these purposes Tokina AT-X 116 DX II fits like no other.

December 24, 2014 lens Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-16 F2.8 (IF) DX II ASPHERICAL has been updated to version Tokina AT-X PRO SD 11-20 F2.8 (IF) DX ASPHERICAL.

Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram

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Comments: 131, on the topic: Tokina AT-X 116 PRO SD 11-16mm F2.8 (IF) DX II Aspherical review

  • Vladimir

    I’ve been looking at this lens for a long time, but I don’t know whether to buy DX or DXII (Nikon D90 camera), advise. And Tokina has released a new lens with FR 12-28 / 4, but so far it is not on sale, and even more so reviews, very interesting FR.

  • Jury

    I have been dreaming about this lens for a long time, I’ll definitely buy it somehow. Arkady, if you compare it with 12-24 / 4 of the same Tokina, which one do you like more?

  • V.

    For example, I took only because of the aperture ratio the astro-landscapes of the Milky Way draws abruptly but this is a fix lens

    • Vasil

      Photos can you share?
      PS Це не фікс обєктив (:

    • anonym

      Anal to be done! .. Well, how can you see the Milky Way? ..)))

  • Stanislas

    Duc "let's say so")
    Given that he has a constant aperture and such a micro-zoom, it’s more like just a fix)

    • Vasil

      Fiks obktiv tse obktiv with post, fixed focal views 20, 35, 50, 85 ... And given Tokina can focalize 11-16 tobto ce not fiks obєktiv, but a zoom lens. And those with an aperture of 2.8 and a zoom of 1,45x cannot be hampered by a zoom lens. It's just that a lot of people think at a time that the zoom lens is on the 18-135, 18-200, or 50-300, or 11-16, the same zoom-lens (:

      • Arkady Shapoval

        Just because almost everything is removed at 11mm, it’s a joke (from a practical point of view) that many chuckle that this is a fixed lens :) I think that everything on Radozhiv is distinguished by a fixed and a zoom :)

      • Igor

        Well, if on a Russian-language site - on "mov", I answer in Chinese -

        只是 由於 這樣 的 事實 , 即 幾乎 所有 的 東西 毫米 , 笑話 (視 點) 很多 這 是 我 想 對 所有 和 變焦

        • Vadim

          And you are a boor, dear. The owner of the blog, Arkady, does not allow himself that, although it could be his territory. The word MOVA, to which you belong with obvious neglect, is familiar to you, I dare to hope that you understand everything else. The fact that Vasily is not all right with a sense of humor or too literal understanding of the issue cannot cause no respect for the person. Your Chinese, however, indicates your upbringing, or rather, its insufficiency. I don’t think that my words will help you with something, but maybe others will think about elementary tolerance.
          Arkady, sorry for the deviation from the material. I have owned this Tokina for two years and I can note the excellent quality of the photo - already sharply from 2,8. Aperture is often in demand when shooting in churches and museums, but you wrote absolutely correctly about the narrow focal range. But what to do - there is no perfection in nature;)

        • anonym

          The mind cannot understand Russia, so the Photographer obviously did not think with his head when he scribbled the hieroglyphs ...

  • Vladimir

    only the price probably will not add up

    • Victor

      Yes, the price “bites”, despite the fact that the lens is not native and for a “cropped” camera.
      I bought my copy at a well-known online auction, it cost me 26 thousand rubles + protective / polarizing filters for it for 1,5 thousand rubles. each. Diameter 77 mm., Perhaps the most expensive. The non-motorized version (for a “screwdriver”) also costs about 22 thousand rubles.
      The lens is well assembled, you hold it in your hands and you understand that this is a THING! Sharp, excellent color reproduction, the main field of application of this lens in my opinion is landscape, interiors and architecture, although portraits can be shot, but carefully.
      However, due to my gaps in theory, this lens turned out to be not as wide as I expected, because despite the fact that it is “cropped” and sharpened for a “cropped” matrix, its real FR is about 16-24mm. Now I don’t know whether to keep it, or look for a buyer for it ...

      • Vadim

        "... real FR it is about 16-24mm." Of course, it’s strange to answer in a year, but… I don’t know how to understand this statement. Have you even tried to compare it with a whale 18-55 by focus, or what?

      • Radda

        Sell ​​to me.

  • Sergei

    Of course, I wildly apologize, but did Samyang seem to have forgotten the widths ?, or they say Toko Zoom with autofocus.

    • Victor

      Sergey, provide the author of the blog with some SHU lens from Samyang, I think he will not refuse to make a review in the near future.

      • Sergei

        Well, if I had it ..., but I only read reviews. And in those rare situations when it is necessary to take a wide photo of a bed on its side, a carcass and take 18-4 frames at 6 mm, or I do not lie on its side and do 6-8x2. And then Photoshop, and one thing I like more in this method - less geometer. distortion and somehow the final photo is more pleasantly perceived.

        PS. Arkady, you write reviews mainly only about photographic equipment - parameters-sizes-color, but you also communicate with people - models, customers, partners. Why not write a couple of articles about this - about people who surround, help, weird - because there is probably something to remember, smile and maybe even give advice. Perhaps this will open up your site from a new side. ;) Happy spring to you.

        • Arkady Shapoval

          It's hard to write about a lot of things, a lot of things can not be described, a lot of things just can not be described.

    • Artem

      Samyang has a width of 14 mm, but on the crop it is not so wide. But it costs 400 cu against 700 cu for Tokin.

      • Jury

        If you take DX, not DXII, then for 600 with a penny you can find. With this difference, I would rather take it than the manual Samyang, unless, of course, it has some special advantages.

        • Victor

          I agree with Yuri, if I were buying this lens now, I would take the first version, because I have a “carcass” with a “screwdriver”, and I focus more manually.

  • Александр Смирнов

    > Ken Rocwell speaks well of this lens
    - Who is Ken RocKwell? He has already shown his inconsistency when describing the properties of the Nikon 24-85mm f / 2.8-4D IF AF Zoom-Nikkor lens and other optics ... It makes no practical sense to cite his statements as an example, because for a true understanding of the quality of glass, you need to face it yourself ...
    Also, numerous “clever men” claim that many “old” glasses will not understand the resolution of modern multi-pixel cameras, and I’ll tell you friends that in most cases practical experiments prove the opposite ...
    http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Camera-Lens-Ratings choose a lens, choose a camera on which this lens has been tested and look at the indicators. The higher the DxOMark Score, the better it behaves on a particular sensor size.
    Hope my advice will help someone. No thanks, all the great shots ...

    • Arkady Shapoval

      > -And who is Ken RocKwell?
      This can be said about any of us.

  • Edward

    Thanks for the review!
    I just have a DX AT-X 116, pleased to the point of horror.
    Now almost like a staffer;)

  • Eugene *

    Hello Arkady. Thank you for everything you do, your site is like a reference book, open all the time. Just a couple of days before this review, such a lens came to me from Hong Kong. Question - which filter would you recommend UV, polar or just a protective one?
    I myself am inclined to this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Marumi-DHG-MC-CPL-PL-D-77mm-77-Slim-Thin-Filter-Digital-High-Grade-Japan-/360427669919?pt=Camera_Filters&hash=item53eb29c99f

    • anonym

      Eugene, you’ll excuse me for the question, but what exactly do you need a filter for? Any filter performs a particular task. Read here: http://foto.potrebitel.ru/data/4/79/094.shtml It is interesting. From myself, I will advise you on optical filters from B + W, Rodenstock, Schneider, Formatt, Leica, Nikon. Expensive of course, but they will not spoil your mood from loss of image quality;)

    • Sergei

      The operation of a polarizing filter is highly dependent on the angle of incidence of the light. Therefore, putting polarics on the width is a direct way to obtain a frame of different colors and tones in the center and at the edges. Any filter, even the highest quality filter, gives a sharpness reduction. Therefore, in my opinion, the best lens protection is a hood. I myself rarely even put on a hood and with intensive use of the camera I have not damaged (scratched, etc.) ANY LENS !!! Lenses are pretty durable. So the problem of protecting it is mostly far-fetched.

  • Eugene *

    A filter to protect the front lens of the lens in the first place, in the second one which is most often used with a wide angle. Well, the possibility of using Tamron 70-200 2.8 with a telephoto because he also has a 77mm thread. I would like some kind of universal option for these two lenses. I don’t know what to do. I ask for advice on what to do in such a situation.

  • anonym

    Eugene, most often with a wide angle circular polarizing filters are used. They allow us to achieve high-quality images when shooting landscapes and architecture (read the page about the properties of these filters, the link to which you were given). I’ll say from myself that I, like many other professionals, put a polarizing filter on my favorite glass and forgot about it forever :) As for your TV set, the best protection for the front lens will be the lens hood and lens cap, but if not so hesitant, then buy a UV filter with a thin frame from the companies in the list above. Please note that low-quality UV glasses can ruin your mood (Arkady wrote about this in one of the articles). Other types of filters can be purchased for a more creative approach to photography.

    • Igor

      Very strange statements of a professional (it seems to me that it doesn't smell like professionalism). For example - “I, like many other professionals, put a polarizing filter on my favorite glass and forgot about it forever”. It feels like a filter for every day. Complete nonsense.
      Second - why advise a person to buy a UV filter with a thin frame on a telephoto lens? What is the advantage of a thin frame on a telephoto lens? The answer is no. For a telephoto lens, a thin frame is a waste of money.
      This is how people of the so-called “professionals” read, and then buy what they don’t need.

  • Ilya

    Will Tokin 11-16 be better in picture quality compared to Nikon 10-24 3,5-4,5?
    About this nikon in general on the Internet there is little that :(, and I ordered myself a native 10-24!

    • Andrei

      He rented icons 10-24, after which he bought Tokin. In my opinion Tokin is significantly better.

  • Ivan

    Hello everyone! Can someone explain one point. When installing this lens on a camera with a built-in motor, will it be possible to choose which one (motors) to use, intracamera or what is in the lens? In general, in which case will focus be faster?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      With lenses with a motor, the lens motor itself is used. There can be no choice. Speed ​​depends on each type of lens separately.

  • Ivan

    Clear. Thank you Arkady! Then it's better to rely on the camera and take the first version ...

  • Echo

    Gentlemen, this must be screwed up by Tokina:
    http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Compare-Camera-Lenses/Compare-lenses/(lens1)/486/(brand)/Tokina/(camera1)/680/(lens2)/872/(brand2)/Tokina/(camera2)/680

    Five years after the release of the original model, all that Tokin's engineers could do was to worsen the already far from outstanding performance.
    And if you can at least try to justify the appearance of the “updated” version of the classic shirik with an eye on the reduced price tag over the hill, then in our unwashed only possible reaction of an amateur photo to marketing chaos can be only one thing - buying the previous version, boycott of the “updated” (voting wallet has not been canceled) and search, search, search for the very best available ...

    • Boris

      “Both the Tokina AT-X 116 Pro DX (AF 11-16mm f / 2.8), a 17-25mm equivalent and the slower Tokina AT-X 124 AF Pro DX (equivalent to a 18-37mm f / 4), are better optically and occupy the second and third places in our rankings, respectively. "
      What fucked up? In the tests for the 7100, Tokin lenses took 2nd and 3rd place after the excellent 14-24 / 2.8, which costs three times more ...

  • Jury

    Native places) Are you from Vyshgorod?

  • Alexander

    Good evening.
    First of all, I want to thank you for your work and for your disinterested desire to share your experience. Thanks.
    For a long time I have been a devoted reader of your thoughts)
    On the topic-question: you can't achieve sharpness when using the aforementioned lens ... can you nitpick compared to the 50mm prime? But still)
    Nikon 5100 camera, the experience of using 2 years, but even on kit 18-55 it turns out more beautiful.
    Thanks in advance for your reply.

  • Oleg

    I choose between this glass and Sigma 10-20 \ 3.5. Not planning a review of Sigma in the near future? Or if someone used both lenses, share their impressions which one is better in your opinion.

    • Alexey

      I shot this panorama of work on Tokina ( http://www.180o.ru ). There is a negative nuance. When I switch the “proprietary” focusing ring from Auto to Manual, the focus (found by autofocus) gets lost. The ring crunches and twists. Look at something crunching inside. Got enough. I bought Nikkor, in all respects it is slightly better. About a third. As well as its price one third more expensive than Tokina.

      • Arkady Shapoval

        Which one is Niccor?

        • Alexey

          10.5mm

          • Arkady Shapoval

            Well, fisheye and diagonal shirik are very different things.

            • Alexey

              Likewise - different lenses. The panoramas turn out to be the same :) Here is filmed with a fisheye Nikkor 10.5mm http://180o.ru/kode/kode.html with software distortion compensator (everything is orthogonal on the ceiling, contrary to the stories about “blurred nodal point”)

              • Alexey

                PS I look - sometimes people come from your site to look at my panoramas using the link in the previous comment. Here is my recent work by Nikkor 10.5mm on a cropped Nikon D90 http://180o.ru/uli/uli.html

              • Good Fairy

                here’s a panorama of the Tokina AT-X 116 DX II Canon 400D without flash
                http://dobrofei.ru/blokhouse

              • Alexey

                Good Fey: solidly glued, did not find any seams at all.

          • Igor

            Tell me, how and how did you do such panoramic work?

  • Sergei

    Hello!
    The AT-X 128 PRO DX's official Tokin website says “The new optical design is designed for cameras with high-resolution sensors”, while the 116 does not have such a phrase ... Does this mean that the 7100 is more preferable for the Nikon 128?

  • Alexander

    Good day! I am interested in the question of correcting the distortion of this lens ... Ie. does the camera (Nikon) correct the distortion itself or does this function work only with native lenses?

  • Alexandra

    Thanks to the author and everyone who works on this project! There is a small question, and since I have been reading your blog for a long time, I decided to consult: I want to shoot night landscapes, is this lens suitable for my purposes? In addition, I consider the options of Tamron SP AF 10-24mm f / 3.5-4.5 Di II LD Aspherical (IF) and Sigma AF 10-20mm f / 4-5.6 EX DC HSM. I can’t choose which one is better, I will be grateful to the reasoned advice. My device is Nikon D90

  • anonym

    Good day. Please advise on Nikon d3100 SIGMA AF 10-20 mm F3.5 EX DC HSM or Tokina AT-X 116 PRO DX AF 11-16 mm f / 2.8? Thank you in advance)

    • Yana

      Tokina if the 1st version, then autofocus will not work on your camera, you need the 2nd version, or you will have to manually focus.

  • Radda

    Thank you for the article. I have a question. Is it necessary to recalculate the focal length on the lens if it is indicated that it is for a DX camera! e.g. Tokina AT-X 116 PRO SD 11-16mm F2.8 (IF) DX II needs to be multiplied by 1.5

  • Robot1524

    Yes. More precisely, the focal length of a lens is a constant thing. But for the Lens-Camera combination there is the concept of an equivalent focal length. To calculate the EGF, multiply by the crop (x1,5 for Nikon DX).

    • Radda

      Thanks. I understood from the article about crop factor, but they convinced me of the opposite, so there was doubt.

  • anonym

    Well, please tell me what version of my lens is 1st or 2nd ?? the marking is silver, but the focusing drive is available and working .. I use it with the 70d .. it buzzes a little but along the way ultrasonic .. but they write that in the first version there is no motor

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