For the ability to review this camera Nikon D7100 body gratitude to the network of stores "Paparazzi", where you can purchase this camera and other photo equipment - http://www.fotomagazinpaparazzi.ua
Nikon D7100 body review
Nikon D7100 is a very interesting camera, it is a fresh breath of air among cameras Nikon DX Series. An absolutely new one with a standard lens came to me to review the Nikon D7100 Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical. This review provides information on the camera itself. Nikon D7100 body.
Nikon D7100 rear view
Matrix Nikon D7100
Nikon D7100 uses a 24.7MP sensor, only 24MP is effective, which allows you to take pictures of 6000 * 4000 pixels. Sometimes they indicate a size of 24.1MP, but these different numbers 24.7, 24.0, 24.1 do not matter, anyway, the picture is created using 24.000.000 pixels, so I will talk strictly about 24MP. Most likely, the Nikon D7100 uses the same matrix as the Nikon D5200 и D7200. A complete list of all used sensors (matrices) on the Nikon central control center can be viewed here. True, due to the different matrix body kit and different processing of the output signal, in the end we can get a different image. Now megapixels you won’t surprise anyone, and they are not always so useful, I advise you to look into my section Battle of Megapixels.
The main feature is not 24MP matrix, but lack of an optical low-pass filter in front of the matrix (OLPF - optical low-pass filter, LPF - low-pass filter). Speaking very roughly, the absence of an OLPF filter will help to squeeze the maximum sharpness out of the lens and get the maximum details in the photo. I wonder why the camera was not called Nikon 'D7100E' after Nikon D800E.
The camera can use ISO 100-6400 and expand its value to ISO 25.600 (ISO HI2). There is no great benefit from ISO Hi1, HI2, it is also strange that the Nikon D7100 does not use ISO 50 (Lo 1) how to do it Nikon D600, D610, D800, D800E, D4, D4s an extra ISO stop would be nice. Nikon D7100 works very well with ISO auto control function and can independently select the desired shutter speed for each lens. In automatic mode excerpts for the Auto ISO function, 5 steps can be set for fine tuning, from a shorter automatic excerptsup to a longer automatic excerpts. You can also set the range of the automatic ISO, for example from ISO 800 to HI1.
Another hallmark of the Nikon D7100 is dotted white balance in live view. The function is very useful and you need to get used to it. In Live View, just select white balance PRE, hold down the WB button and wait for the yellow rectangle to appear, moving the rectangle, you need to set it to the point at which measurement will be performed white balance. To measure in this selected zone, you need to press the shutter button, while the camera will not take a picture, but only take a measurement BB.
This is how two cameras look like - Nikon D7100, Nikon D5200 with similar matrices
Nikon D7100 Focus System
Nikon D7100 uses an updated focus module Advanced Multi cam 3500DX with 51 focus points, 15 of which are cross-shaped. Rumor has it the Nikon D7100 is small Nikon D4. Do not believe it. Although Nikon D4 and Nikon D7100 use 51 focus points, they have different focus modules. Nikon D7100 uses Advanced Multi cam 3500DX, While Nikon D4 - Advanced Multi cam 3500FX. The difference is that Nikon D4 can focus with F / 8.0 lenses using 11 points, and the Nikon D7100 using only one point. I have written in more detail about the focus modules here... Still, Nikon D7100 has a paper focusing module that looks better than Nikon D300, D300s, D3, D3s, D3x, as it can work with dark F/5.6-F/8.0 lenses with a single center focus point. To put it bluntly, the D7100 should focus better in poor lighting conditions. In fact, I did not notice much difference.
It's very nice that the Nikon D7100 good viewfinder coverage with focus points, same as Nikon D300, D300s. And most importantly, when working in 1.3x mode, coverage with focus points becomes simply wonderful. Even Nikon D2xs cannot boast of such a high-quality coverage of the focus area in its High Speed Crop mode. In fact, the quality of tracking moving objects in focus, the ability to compose a frame, etc., depend on the coverage area with focus points.
Nikon D7100 performs very well in dynamic focus area selection mode. In this case, 9, 21 or 51 focus points can be used. I advise you to play around with these modes. Another important method of autofocus is the 3D tracking function, which is very useful for shooting objects moving in the frame. 3D tracking works in tandem with the metering system exposurethat can recognize the type of scene being shot and improve the performance of the auto focus system.
Nikon D7100 has fine tuning of focus. You can also set the priority of the focus mode for AF-C, AF-S, in more detail about focus adjustment on Nikon cameras you can find here. Of course, the Nikon D7100 has a built-in focus motor that allows you to use a bunch of lenses AF type.
Optional Accessories for Nikon D7100
Crop mode 1.3x
The Nikon D7100 came up with one tricky mode of operation. You can shoot using the entire area of the sensor in the normal DX mode (24 x 16 mm), or you can select the crop mode 1.3 x (18 x 12 mm). In 1.3x mode EGF lenses equals FR multiplied by 2. For example, if you install fifty dollars on the Nikon D7100 Nikon 50 mm f / 1.4G AF-S Nikkorthen EGF becomes equal to 100 mm. This is logical, because 1.5 x 1.3 \u1,95d 2 (approximately 1.3). This mode can save some money for those who like to shoot from afar. In XNUMX mode, you can take pictures 4800 by 3200 pixels (15.3MP)That is enough even for serious post processing. Personally, I liked the mode because of the increase in the coverage area with focus points and the increase in shooting speed up to 7 fps. By the way, this mode also works when shooting video.
1.3x mode the inactive area does not darken in the viewfinderfor example in the camera Nikon D2xs in the high speed crop mode, the inactive area is darkened, this increases the usability of such a cropped mode. To start the 1.3x crop mode, just press the INFO button and select DX <-> 1.3x there.
Two brothers - Nikon D7100, Nikon D7000 with 18-105 VR lenses
Nikon D7100 Speed
The camera can shoot at a speed 6 frames per second, the predecessor had the same speed Nikon D7000. But there was an opportunity expand the shooting speed to 7 frames per second in 1.3x mode.
Attention: 7 frames per second in 1.3x mode is only available when shooting in JPEG or RAW 12 bit, only 14 fps is available in RAW 6 bit mode.
Attention 2: in normal DX mode, 6 frames per second is only available if RAW 14 bit mode is turned off. If you shoot with RAW 14 bit quality, then the maximum speed is only 5 frames per second.
In total, with the best image quality (RAW 14 bit, RAW 14 bit + JPEG), the shooting speed is lower than that of Nikon D7000 with the same settings. Where is the world heading?
In general, this speed will be enough for almost any situation. 7fps is pretty good, but still not 8fps like older models Nikon D300, D300s, D700.
Nikon D7100 with battery pack and 16-85VR lens
Buffer
The buffer at the camera is small. With one memory card, if you turn off all additional functions that improve the quality of pictures, such as
- Active D-lighting
- Auth. distortion management
- Under. noise for lengths. exposure.
- Under. noise for high. ISO
- Auto ISO
That in JPEG mode is placed in the buffer
- 9 shots, JPEG L optimal quality
- 12 shots, JPEG L size priority
- 12 shots, JPEG L optimal quality in 1.3X mode
- 15 shots, JPEG L size priority in 1.3X mode
- about 4-5 JPEG pictures L Optimal quality with all additional functions switched on at maximum at ISO HI2
RAW:
- 6 shots, 14-bit, lossless compression
- 7 shots, 14-bit, conventional compression
- 7 shots, 12-bit, lossless compression
- 8 shots, 12-bit, conventional compression
- 7 shots, 14-bit, lossless compression, 1.3x mode
- 8 shots, 14-bit, normal compression, 1.3x mode
- 8 shots, 12-bit, lossless compression, 1.3x mode
- 10 shots, 12-bit, normal compression, 1.3x mode
- 5 shots, 14-bit, lossless compression, DX RAW + JPEG L quality priority
- about 3-4 snapshots, 14-bit, lossless compression when all additional functions on ISO HI2 are turned on to the maximum
It turns out that the maximum buffer can hold in RAW format only 10 shots, and with the best shooting quality '14 -bit, lossless compression '- the buffer contains total 6 shots. Due to the fact that the pictures are very heavy, the camera after 6 pictures in RAW (NEF) format will not take the next frame until it writes at least one picture to the memory card from the buffer. With my ADATA SDHC 32GB class 10 card, the camera pauses for a long time while shooting. I checked if using two memory cards, this does not save the situation with the camera stopping during serial shooting. In order to maximally prolong burst shooting, you should use the fastest memory cards, or shoot in JPEG.
RAW files with 14-bit color depth, lossless compression in DX mode weighs up to 40MB. Unlike professional cameras, such as Nikon D300s - Nikon D7100 cannot use uncompressed RAW format. For huge, heavy files on the camera, you can find two nests for cards of type SD, SDHC, SDXC UHS-I... You can set up work with cards for:
- Overflow. When the first card is filled, recording is made on the second.
- Reservation - the same picture is recorded on both cards. Very useful for capturing very important events, where you need to ensure that the data is not lost in any way.
- Record RAW on one card, and JPEG files on another. Just a convenient feature.
Nikon D7100 shows off its super performancewhich he gets through the EXPEED 3 image processing system. Roughly speaking, EXPEED 3 is the processor that does all the calculations in the camera. But in fact, this EXPEED 3 cannot squeeze out 6-7 fps at 14-bit color depth. If EXPEED 3 is as good as they write, then I could have worked hard and removed this limitation without spoiling the overall good camera performance.
It's strange for me that Nikon cannot normally solve the speed problem with 14-bit color depth, this problem is still very acute in models Nikon D300 и D300s, forcing them to work at a snail speed of 2.5 frames per second. And then she migrated to Nikon D5300, D5500 и D7200.
Nikon D7100 with 18-105 VR side view. Plugs for different connectors on the camera.
Shooting, metering system, turn-on speed
Can be shot at shutter speeds from 30 seconds to 1 / 8000 withit’s good that the Nikon D7100 has no stripped down excerpts in 1/4000 s, which is set to Nikon D600. The camera shutter must work at least 150,000 cycles - pretty good for an amateur camera. Also, Nikon D7100 uses independent control of the mirror and apertureThis allows a very small shutter lag. The lag is only 0,052 s... Unlike many cameras, the Nikon D7100 may not lower the mirror to capture the frame in Live View - it will simply release the shutter. In other cameras, for example Nikon D90, D700 responsible for controlling the mirror and aperture general mechanism, which operates in a standard cycle and the Live View should always lower the mirror, only after which shooting can be performed.
Measurement exposure based on 2016-pixel RGB sensorsame as cameras D600, D7000, D5200. In more detail about measurement exposure can read here. The camera can easily work with non-chip lenses, for example, with old AI-S lenses or with Soviet lenses. You can configure the soft key to quickly select a lens from the list.
With one battery charge, the camera can easily squeeze over 1000 shots. The number of photos that can be obtained on a single battery charge depends on many factors. By the way, the EN-EL15 battery itself is exactly the same as that of Nikon D800,D800E, D600, D610, D7000.
У D7000 there was a cover for the display :)
Video
In normal mode, you can shoot with a maximum quality of 1920 x 1080; 30p, 25p, 24p or 1280 x 720; 60p, 50p format H.264 / MPEG-4 AVC. It is important that in 1.3x mode you can shoot video with quality 1920 x 1080 60i, 50i... You can choose high or normal video quality. It's also nice that the Nikon D7100 has a built-in stereo microphone. In AF-F focus mode, continuous focus tracking is available when shooting video, tracking focus works just awful, When recomposing an AF-F frame, it often does not respond at all. Recording video on a DSLR camera with auto focus is a very unpleasant task for me, it’s better to use manual focus when shooting a video.
To shoot video, you must set the Live View lever to 'camcorder' mode. Recording is done using the red button next to the shutter button. It is possible to record video via HDMI to an external device without video compression, and work via HDMI with a large TV while Live view is on. There was no HDMI cable in the package, I really wanted to, but could not test this function to the level of its convenience.
In the manual control mode of the camera 'M', shooting video with manual control is available excerpts and ISO. Exposure can be set from 1 \ 30 to 1 \ 8000 seconds. When shooting a video, you can immediately change the ISO value. It is convenient to shoot video in manual mode and the Auto ISO function is on. In P, A, S modes, you can shoot video and make corrections exposure for video using the '+ \ -' button on + -3 ev In other scene modes, correction exposure not available.
Attention: while recording a video do not change aperture value, which will be filmed, therefore, you need to set the aperture value before turning on Live View.
Display, housing
Nikon D7100 has a new display with 1.229.000 points and measuring 3.2 inches (8cm). The number of dots on the display of the Nikon D7100 is even higher than that of the Nikon D4 / D4s, D800 / D800E, D600 / D610. It is also very important that the display itself is made on the basis of an RGBW matrix. Prior to this, the display matrix was manufactured using conventional RGB pixel technology (red green blue - red, green, blue). The new technology allows for better display of information in bright light.
New matrix on the display Nikon D7100
The display of the Nikon D7100 turned out really шикарный. But the display does not have a protective cover, such as Nikon D90, D700, D7000.
That's not all, the new Nikon D7100 uses information display in the optical viewfinder. Now bottom info bar glows white, not green, new organic EL technology has improved the perception of information in bright shooting conditions and reduced the 'brakes' of such a display in cold weather.
Indicators of a new type based on EL are shown in yellow
The case at the camera is half done magnesium alloy. The case has special rubber seals. The most important thing Nikon D7100 has weather and dust protection, it is alleged that camera security is no worse than D800, D300s. The camera is pleasant to the touch, well assembled. The front and rear control dials are rubberized. The camera has a comfortable grip. In severe conditions, I did not test the camera :), but for complete dust and moisture protection, appropriate lenses are needed. I don’t know where to look at the list of dustproof or waterproof Nikon lenses.
Housing Nikon D7100. Yellow seals for weather and dust protection
Weighs a 765g camera with a battery.
Sample Photos
All photos were shot on a Nikon D7100 and lens Nikon 85mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor. Photos without processing, on-camera JPEG Fine L, VI, only reduced to 3 MP and data imprinted EXIF. Here is the original ISO 6400 image (VI, matrix metering).
Useful Features and Functions
- Active D-lighting, automatic control of chromatic aberration and distortion. True, these functions reduce the number of frames in the series, although the official website says that EXPEED 3 copes with this.
- Optional monochrome display for quick camera use. The display has a green backlight, the backlight is turned on using the camera's power button.
- HDR with different levels, you can set Moderate, Normal, Amplified, Super Amplified and Auto level. The camera takes two pictures in a row and combines them into one.
- For lovers of photo processing and shooting with various interesting filters in the Nikon D7100 installed a whole bunch of them. There are even two effects for shooting video.
- For easy camera setup without extra efforts, there are special automatic modes, such a set: Portrait, Landscape, Child, Sport, Macro, Night portrait, Night landscape, Party, Indoors, Beach, Snow, Sunset, Twilight (almost a saga :)) , Dawn, Pet Portrait, Candlelight, Flower, Autumn Colors, Products. I am often asked if a level camera is suitable for a beginner Nikon D7000, D7100 - I answer that it will do, now you understand that it will be easier for a beginner to shoot with such a huge set of automatic modes.
- Ability to use the booster MB-D15. Can connect the Nikon D7100 from the network using an EH-5b AC adapter with an EP-5B connector.
- I like very much shooting mode locks on the control wheel. Some write that this interferes with quick access to different shooting modes, but in fact this is a very useful function. Very often you can accidentally knock off the shooting mode, for example from 'A' to 'M', which can lead to a bunch of defective photos. I really missed such a blocker on my Nikon D90.
- Outputs for an external microphone, USB, HDMI, 3.5 output for headphones. Another connector for controlling the camera.
- Flash Nikon D7100 can remotely control other external flash units. You can read more in the section Nikon CLS. Nikon D7100 also supports fast synchronization with external flash units, in more detail here. Minimum sync with the built-in flash is 1/320 s.
- The camera can work remotely using the WR-1 module or the WR-R10 + WR-T10 kit, which use radio control. WR-1 allows you to remotely control almost all the functions of the camera. I did not use this device, but it should be something interesting. Also, the Nikon D7100 can use the WU-1a adapter to transfer files and control the camera using devices based on iOS, Android. And you can also use the UT-1 module to transfer data from the camera using WLAN (wi-fi). And finally, you can use the GP-1 / GP-1A to record GPS data for each shot. In short, they made a lot of new trinkets for the camera, now the main thing is to deal with them all.
- The virtual horizon in Live View and in the optical viewfinder. True, you need to try to turn on the virtual horizon in JVI.
- Interval Timer Shooting multiple exposure.
- Of course, the camera has a matrix cleaning system.
- Nikon D7100 has 3 programmable buttons, only the functions that can be hung on them are not very useful in operation.
- In RGB view mode bar charts You can view the histogram for any selected image fragment.
- You can set the center button in image review mode to quickly enlarge the image. This is a very, very useful feature. I advise you to turn it on. This is done using the f1 setting -> View mode -> Zoom on / off. -> desired magnification. The same can be done for fast Live View zoom. In shooting mode, I advise you to set the button to 'Select center. focus points. ' (the third trick is in this article).
- Bracketing exposure, white balance и ADL.
- The camera uses a pentaprism with special enlightenment in the optical viewfinder. Coverage of the field of view is 100%.
- Quiet shooting mode 'Q'. And modes for U1, U2 for convenient customization of the camera.
- The easiest method to remotely control the shutter is to use the remote ML-L3. The camera has two remote control infrared signal receivers, front and rear.
Camera wheel and new 'I' button
Nikon D7100 Personal Impressions
The camera is great, but still I expecting an heir Nikon D300s with its full magnesium body, 8 fps, and a bunch of fine useful little things, as a result received a very good upgrade Nikon D7000. Because Nikon D7100 is still namely an amateur camera. It is very strange that the Nikon D300s are not debited, but they also do not replace it. Users Nikon D300, D300s are forced to either go full frame or go down to level D7100. The same situation is with Canon, where the advanced 7D can not be replaced with a new APS-C camera. Apparently, a serious plot is being prepared against photographers who want to use the highest quality APS-C cameras.
Nikon D7100 is an amateur camera, this indirectly confirms the location of the camera on the official sites
The division into classes is not only a convention, but also a huge number of subtleties, about which it is sometimes very difficult to write, but which with experience become very useful and felt in practice. Therefore, be extremely careful which camera to buy.
In general, the situation with the choice of a good advanced Nikon camera has become more acute. Of the new advanced Nikon cameras, I personally see a dilemma - either Nikon D600 / D610 with its full frame and 39 focus points in the center, or the Nikon D7100 with a cropped matrix, but with an excellent focus system and a bunch of small buns. Personally, I believe that the D7100turned out very pretty, with fewer claims than Nikon D600. And if earlier the issue of switching from D300 / D300s on the Nikon D7000 was controversial, now the D7100 should not disappoint owners D300 / D300s (though disappointing though).
UPD: many do not like the color in Nikon D7100 pictures, especially skinton (skin color in portraits). There is a specificity with color.
To whom there is little information, I advise you to look at the reviews (part in English):
- Classic review from DPreview
- Wikipedia no surprise
- The camera scored 83 points on DXO
- Here comparison on snapsort.com with the D7000 и comparison with D7000 on dxo
- Key features on the official website nikon.ru
- Noise test here и here
- Official Nikon video camera presentation
- Немного about D7100 from Kai Wong
- Lovers of boxes - froknowsphoto
- Photo examples at low ISO from the official site
- Others one reviewer
- И Ken rockwell did not pass Nikon D7100
It looks like a Nikon D7100 with a standard (whale lens) Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical from the delivery
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions:
Nikon D7100 - best advanced amateur DX camera for 2013 (at the time when I write a review about it). Nikon D7100 in 1.3x mode has best viewfinder coverage with focus points, does not have a low pass filter and can accelerate to 7 frames per second. Here's what's new in the Nikon D7100:
- New 3.2-inch display with 1.229.000 dots of the new RGBW type
- Spot metering white balance in real time via live view
- New WR-1 radio remote control, new MB-D15 battery pack
- New UT-1 Wireless Fast Data Device
- The new Advanced Multi-CAM 3500DX focus sensor is the first Nikon DX camera to focus with 'dark' lenses up to and including F / 8.0.
- New mechanism for separate mirror and aperture control
- The new 1.3X framing mode, which also works in video mode (before that, among DX cameras, something similar was only in Nikon D2x, D2xs)
- New i-button control (in addition to the Info button)
- The first DX camera without a low pass filter
- New organic EL display for the optical viewfinder (instead of Transmissive LCD)
In general, it turned out to be a good camera. If there is money, then as an advanced amateur Nikon DX camera recommend Namely Nikon D7100, perhaps in the choice will help here is such an article.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
I photograph only in RAW, I use the camera in all weather conditions and in extreme conditions when hiking
Arkady, hello!
You have a great blog! I discovered it for myself a long time ago, so I read if not all, then most of it, including dozens of pages of comments on many articles ... Thanks to you, I have greatly increased my level of knowledge)
Before asking a question, a little background - I think it's important!)
I have been fond of photography for many years, although only 30 myself))) If you take the last 15 years, then in terms of technology I started with a film “soap dish” Olympus, then digital Olympus SP-510uz (by the way, there was a cool camera down!), Then switched to Nikon D3100 (also good memories, sold), a few years ago I took a second-hand Nikon D300 from a friend (sold, maybe in vain?), about 1,5 years ago I changed it to D7100, which I still use.
I changed D3100 to D300 - there was a lack of efficiency in settings, exposure, high-speed shooting. I wanted a "screwdriver" for old lenses, but hardly came in handy (except for Tokina).
I sold the D300 - there was a lack of video + some flaws in the quality of that particular copy (I took it cheap, did not look too closely - it looks like a "drowned man").
- I shoot primarily landscapes
- I also often write videos on trips
- I am fond of photography of wild fauna, in particular, birds
- I plan to shoot high-quality macro
- I want to pay more attention to portrait photography
Over the years, I have accumulated, I think, a good fleet of equipment:
1-17mm f / 55G ED IF AF-S DX Nikkor
2-200mm f / 500E ED AF-S VR Nikkor
3mm f / 35G AF-S DX Nikkor (for sale)
4mm f / 50G AF-S Nikkor
5mm f / 85G AF-S IF Nikkor (rides to me)
6. Tokina AT-X 124 Pro SD 12-24 F4 (IF) DX Aspherical (for sale)
7. Helios-44m-4 58mm f / 2
I want to switch to the FF (or maybe not switch, but add a second device) for portrait shooting (I plan to get a little involved in infrequent paid shootings). But there is no money for a new device of the D750 level or higher.
The questions are:
1. Which ONE device would you choose (D700, D610, some other Nikon, albeit a little later), or advise you to stay on KROPE, or KROP for livestock / macro / trip + OLD FF for portraits?
2. Planning to buy a macro lens, but can't choose between 105mm f / 2.8G ED VR IF N AF-S Micro Nikkor and 60mm f / 2.8GN AF-S Micro Nikkor ED IF Aspherical (MKII). For the first MDF 0,314m + VR, nafig is not needed in a macro like, for the second MDF - 0,185. In theory, the second is better. But for some reason everyone is talking about 105mm.
3. What set of lenses would you prefer for my purposes (what would you leave, sell, buy)?
In all these matters, the following strains:
1. You can sell D7100 + 17-55mm + 35mm + Tokin and buy, for example, D750. But then I am left without a travel lens. You recommend the 24-120mm f / 4G N AF-S Nikkor ED VR IF Aspherical, but this thing will be out of my way for a long time ...
2. The D610 does not like weak coverage with focus points (not convenient when shooting portraits like), the lack of shutter speed is shorter than 1/4000, and the lack of a rotary screen. Or give a damn about it?
3. The D750 is not satisfied with the lack of shutter speed shorter than 1/4000, and the price, of course) But I like its average megapixel, which should have a positive effect on the final result + a rotating display, which is often lacking (macro, video ...).
4. D800-850 - exorbitant megapixels (however, as in the D7100), in connection with which you either have to put up with frequent, not sharp pictures, or go broke for very high-quality optics, which in my case will drag on for several years ...
5. You can try to look for a live D700, but is it worth it? Although I am a fan of the "old school", and enjoy including. and from the feeling of "reliability" of technology. But the DD of this camera, the image size ...
In general, I apologize for the bulk, but if you tell me, I will once again be grateful to you!
PS: Of course, there are my own considerations in this regard, but if suddenly they converge with yours, I will consider this a sign from above!)))
To the question of short shutter speeds: https://radojuva.com/2015/01/4000-vs-8000/ Or read?
Read. With the lack of 1/8000 I will put up without problems! But between 1/4000 and 1/8000 there are 2 more steps that are required, especially when shooting small birds, especially in sunny weather.
In any case, exposure is only one of many choices.
There are no two steps: between 1/4000 and 1/8000 exactly 1 shutter speed.
And you don’t have such optics, so that you can allow you to shoot birds, even small ones, even at 1/4000, not to mention 1/8000 - your 200-500 has a maximum aperture of 5.6 - this means that with this lens exposure in the summer midday sun is yes in clear weather it will be 1/1000, well, the edge - 1/2000. With the rest and lenses, you shouldn't shoot in bright sunlight anyway.
Focus points - as anyone, of course, but for many, one central is enough. If there is no Eye-af or analogue, everything else is a tough compromise, at least 9 points, at least 30, at least 154.
Doubt crept in that you know what you are talking about ...
D7100 allows you to choose shutter speeds 1/5000 and 1/6400.
Aperture from 5.6 to 8 - normal working!
Exposures 1/1250 - 1/2500 are generally working when shooting most birds of my latitude.
If you want to shoot a flying kingfisher or tit - the speed increases!
Re-composition of the frame with insufficient coverage of the focus points of the frame area leads to a shift in the grip at small apertures - this is a well-known fact.
And what is wrong with the rest of the lenses in the bright sun?
Everything can be, only 1/5000 and 1/6400 are THREE steps and not a step.
If you want to continue an empty argument about the shutter speeds you do not need, please first attach an overexposed (or at least just normally exposed) photo at 1/4000, f / 5.6 and ISO 100
Yes, the depth of field is shifting, but not so much that it is noticeable in real conditions, even with an ultra-thin depth of field. I speak as the owner of 135 / 2,0 and 180 / 2,8
With lenses in the bright sun, everything is fine (well, basically). Your portrait photographs will be out of order and 1/8000 will not do them better, I can guarantee this.
The fact remains that there are such excerpts, they are available. And no one would want to lose them.
I clearly wrote my opinion about 1/8000 - it is useless.
Moreover, I don't need portraits for 1/8000 ...
As for 5.6, 1/4000 and others:
https://onfotolife.com/sample_image?photo_id=259018631&lens_id=549&page=10&focal_min=0&focal_max=800&aperture_min=0&aperture_max=32
https://onfotolife.com/sample_image?photo_id=213171629&lens_id=590&page=2&focal_min=0&focal_max=800&aperture_min=0&aperture_max=32
https://onfotolife.com/sample_image?photo_id=257064495&lens_id=596&page=2&focal_min=0&focal_max=800&aperture_min=0&aperture_max=32
https://onfotolife.com/sample_image?photo_id=269365667&lens_id=590&page=4&focal_min=0&focal_max=800&aperture_min=0&aperture_max=32
https://onfotolife.com/sample_image?photo_id=221676577&lens_id=590&page=9&focal_min=0&focal_max=800&aperture_min=0&aperture_max=32
https://onfotolife.com/sample_image?photo_id=258040683&lens_id=549&page=2&focal_min=0&focal_max=800&aperture_min=0&aperture_max=32
https://onfotolife.com/sample_image?photo_id=251303773&lens_id=549&page=5&focal_min=0&focal_max=800&aperture_min=0&aperture_max=32
https://onfotolife.com/sample_image?photo_id=257878535&lens_id=596&page=3&focal_min=0&focal_max=800&aperture_min=0&aperture_max=32
In this genre of photography is used often enough.
And I repeat, in any case, endurance is only one of many points when I choose!
But thanks for the arguments. I also listen to them!
Regarding the 105mm f / 2.8G ED VR IF N AF-S Micro Nikkor and 60mm f / 2.8GN AF-S Micro Nikkor ED IF Aspherical (MKII). Why do you think that the less MDF, the better? These lenses give the same scale (1: 1). If, when working with the second, you will almost rest against the subject of shooting with the lens (the insects will not be happy about this :)), then with the second you will have a greater distance, and less likely to frighten off the living creatures. I have a 105mm f / 2.8G + D810, I bought a very good Raynox MSN-202 (4X) macro lens (which fits only lenses with focal length> 100mm, otherwise vignetting will occur).
Here is a snowflake with this setup
Raynox MSN-202
—
so what does this thing do? reduces MDF? :)
In fact, yes :)
Thanks for the advice! I have not tried to shoot with any of these lenses (there is nowhere to drive), so I don’t know how it will be in practice. There were only purely theoretical reflections. I looked at examples of photos both at one and the other - all are excellent (if the photographer's hands are straight)))!
And 105mm, as I understand it, will have a bonus in the form of good focal and sharpness for portraits?
0) I support Onotole and Alexei regarding exposure (8000 is certainly good, but in my opinion this is not critical at all), AF for portraits and close-ups.
1) There is a subtle point that multi-pixel cameras make more noise or make a "soapy" picture. This is partly true when viewed pixel by pixel. But if we bring the picture to a common denominator (resize), then the noise level is usually no worse than that of a “less pixel” camera of the same generation of the same size, and the detail is better (if the lens allows) or approximately similar (if the lens “does not allow ”). This is not at all a reason to buy a multi-pixel camera (it has other drawbacks, for example, the file size, or that it will show shoals, which the “small-pixel” one will hide), it is just like that. https://www.dpreview.com/articles/5559775087/choosing-a-camera-should-i-worry-about-pixel-size
2) In my opinion, out of the above, the D750 is the optimal camera for you if you want FF. It has an excellent AF system which will be important for birds. And an excellent matrix (despite the age of 5).
3) I really like 80-200 (MK3) for portraits. With a pretty good 85 1.8d on hand, buying an 80-200 (MK3) gave me more for portraits than switching to FF. But this is my experience (yours may be different), from which I want to say that maybe you should first try the 85mm f / 1.8G lens that comes to you. Maybe you will have enough for portraits.
For birds, crop will be preferable when paired with your existing 200-500mm f / 5.6E, if there is enough light. If there is little light, then I’m not sure that FF will save you. In such situations, you need both FF and a lighter lens.
4) The worm of doubt called "FF" will gnaw you until you try. If you have friends, photographers, borrow from them or rent a similar camera for the weekend, shoot different scenes to understand whether you need a full-frame sensor or crop that is optimal for you (quality / weight / price ratio).
I hope the tips come in handy.
Good shots!
I agree!
I also think the D750 is good! But its price makes you choose it as your only camera, which will entail additional costs ...
As for multipixel, I also agree - the volume of their Ravs will entail problems - I think my i5 will not be able to cope much with them. And D810-850 is too expensive for me.
As for the portraits, the following thought was: I am buying an “inexpensive” carcass, for which there are already 1-2 normal non-display lenses (50mm and 85mm). I get the correct depth of field control at the output, beautiful bokeh. So? Or is it not worth it all?
There are no friends with such devices, and there are no friends with FF, so there is nothing to try ... This is the whole thing - everything is only in theory. If I had the opportunity to try, I think I would have decided long ago.
85 mm is a wonderful thing on a crop. Usually, the details of the eyes come out sharp.
I tried FF for the sake of sports interest, if I shot only portraits, then, in general, one 85mm would be enough for me.
The D800 is a good thing, it gives a great advantage for shooting both landscapes and animals (it is an expensive pleasure to shoot a bird more than a hundred meters, then crop and get a normal picture)
But if the portrait is not a purely artistic approach (staging, complex effects, blurring), then in ff I don’t see much sense.
PS Now they rent equipment. Otherwise, as you understand, without a test drive.
Hello!
I have a photograph similar to your story and D7100 in use. I also wanted portraits like on FF. I solved the problem by acquiring the Fujifilm X-T10 and the LensTurboII adapter (https://dphotoworld.net/news/adapter_mitakon_lens_turbo_ii_n_g_fx_dlja_kamer_fujifilm_x_i_optiki_nikon_dx/2017-03-18-4957)
I use Nikkor 50 / 1,4G, Zenitar 85 / 1.4 and Tokina 11-16 / 2.8 with Fujik in manual focus mode (very convenient for focus picking or wedges with magnification - this is a built-in function of Fuji).
Already a couple of years, happy as an elephant and FF no longer attracts me.
Who knows, the frame buffer was increased on the D7200? And then at 7100 in RAW it is completely sad: you press the button in small series, and the buffer is still full - for shooting sports events it is very important, you have to shoot in JPEG
I bought a D7100 on OLX. First impressions after D5100: 1) everything is much more complicated, but quickly figured out. Access to quick settings was even a little easier, but in a completely different way; 2) ceteris paribus, the photos come out much better, this can be seen immediately.
In general, I have never regretted that I spent. Now I decide the question - what to do with the D5100? Sell or keep the second camera? You can't sell it for a lot, but you don't want to give it away. What do you advise?
'much better' - how is it manifested?
I don’t see the difference in quality between 5100 and 7100. We shoot in the same, relatively good conditions at 5100 and 7100, scrolling through the photos - and you will not distinguish the pictures.
There is no particular difference there.
Maybe because on d7100 DD is wider on ISO up to 400?
There is no AA filter, so pictures even whales seem to be cut.
On the d7100, diffraction limit occurs earlier and is more sensitive to movement and lubrication. The difference in dd is visible only in the pixel drock lab. In reality, there is not much difference.
But the d7100 has a pentaprism and not a pentamirror and fine tuning af, as I recall.
I can’t justify this correctly. I can tell you about my impressions. Room, lighting - LED lamps in the chandelier, photo from the middle of the room to the desktop. Nothing artistic. The same lens. Both built-in and outdoor flashes were used. At the same time, photos from 5100 are not bright, not expressive, require editing (if the goal was to keep the picture), and from 7100, save it as it is. Roughly the same - a photo of satellite dishes on the roof of the house opposite. Filmed from my balcony, naturally without flashes. The 7100 delivers crisp, sharp images with proper exposure. In comparison with the same 5100 images, the difference is immediately evident. Well, these are my personal subjective first impressions. I am very pleased with the purchase. Still, I'm interested in the answer to the question - how would you do with an old carcass?
um, do you shoot in JPEG? If so, let me remind you about such a thing as 'Picture control'
PS I didn't have a 'Wow Effect' when switching from 5100 to 7100.
Yes, the device is better in many ways, and yes, there were cases when the 7100 took pictures that were not available for the 5100 (very high ISO, difficult focusing), but no 'Wow'
Sell both and buy ff. Will wow. )
Yeah, at the same time sell old optics and buy 24-70 / 2.8G, 70-200 / 2.8G and other kid's set. Wow, the effect of the "frenzy" on $$$ will definitely be)
I switched to FF a long time ago and can do just fine without "24-70 / 2.8G, 70-200 / 2.8G and other kid's set".
cheap manuals work much better on ff, starting with a penny helios, their drawing is revealed precisely at the full frame. then there are for 3000grn and a little more fast fifty dollars. there are other fixes. For reference, patsian zooms 2.8 on crop are by no means cheap, they cost about 35 000 UAH and more.
So if you turn on the brains, then “Wow, the effect of the“ waste ”on $$$” will definitely NOT be)
An interesting phenomenon, for some reason, the transition from crop to fF is considered: crop + kit lens to ff + the most expensive fast ff zoom and it is concluded oh how expensive! )))
Anonymous, I guess how much worthy optics cost. Optics must meet the challenges. I am simply of the opinion that optics should at least match the camera or exceed its capabilities. Those. take with reserve. Shitty glass will give a corresponding picture on the D850.
I didn’t sell it, but I also bought D750. There is no 'Ah' effect. Got what I expected + some downsides compared to D7100.
The 'Ax' effect was observed when switching from a superzoom (not bad overall) Panasonic FZ50 to Nikon D5100 - yes, the difference is dramatic in all respects.
Higher resolution and slightly better detail (due to pixels) - visible only at 100% magnification and good optics. The working ISO is higher, pentaprism, AF adjustment, metering with off-chip optics, AF motor and other small buns.
That is, when you squeeze the maximum out of the device, the difference is noticeable (but you can squeeze more with the d7100). But on an average survey, the difference in 'picture quality' is not visible to the naked eye.
At the moment, both cameras are available, I write as a practitioner.
I really shoot in JPEG. Picture control in both is on SD (in the settings everything is zero). ISO in both of 100. In general, everything is the same. Most likely also leave both. I’m not impoverished. Moreover, at 5100 the spring of raising the flash loosened. And at the same time some kind of mikrik does not work. It is necessary after pushing the button a couple of millimeters to push the flash up. After that, everything works fine. It would not be a problem, but when selling immediately for this cant will have to be inferior to the market value.
Therefore, the difference is that the cameras have different engines, developers of jpegs.
Remove the equal in zeros and get about the same picture.
But to be honest, because of the curved colors of the matrix, a third-party profile is highly recommended for a better result and not a native jpeg.
Anonymous, FF does not pull - there is no desire to fuck with the purchase and sale of a park of optics - a good collection has already gathered. Yes, and there is an opinion that if the photo is not earnings - FF is not so necessary and the crop has some of its advantages. By the way, purely out of curiosity in our provinces, I look closely at what is in the hands of photographers who shoot various events (weddings, christenings, reports). And what do I see? 7000, 7100 and even 5X00! But of course I won't argue - FF is cooler. But for me it is reasonable to go no - at the beginning I described it.
Just for earnings it doesn’t matter, you correctly noticed that the bombers are removed for anything, just to get more profit.
But if for a hobby, for myself, then ff is clearly better. There is a normal wide angle, much more volume of the picture, etc.
Once again I agree. But still it does not suit me with all desire. If you sell both, it will hardly be enough or not enough for 610. And there you will also have to tinker with glass. Most of my kit is for DX.
Well, yes, definitely more expensive.
Although I here assembled a friend’s kit ff for the occasion with glass at a low price) but you need to catch this and be ready to fly to Europe.
I also used d7100, I got the desired picture only when shooting in equal terms. Moreover, it is better to process the rabbits in Nikon's Capture NX-D or Capture One. I liked the color rendition more in the "portrait" mode. There are some nuances in the sharpness level settings (on a computer it is also better than on a camera). After the processed rav, the jeep from the camera serves me only for sorting frames into good / defective
Flour of choice. The main use of animal photo cameras is now the Canon 60d. Not satisfied with the detail. Now I am faced with the choice of Nikon d7200 or Canon 80d. Maybe someone used both cameras, what do you recommend. I am considering only a SLR.
I don’t know if the 80d has an anti-flow filter, the d7200 does. If the first one has it, then, theoretically, with the details there is a little worse.
In general, if you have a goal in detail, then choose a lens, because the detail depends on it even more than on the carcass. And then, take the corresponding carcass to the lens
Yes, this option is being considered, but will the result be comparable to Nikon?
I will buy a Russian paper manual for the D7100. There is an electronic version, I want a paper one. donkarloson (dog) list.ru
Isn't it easier to print?
Not easier.
The question is as follows. I bought a used 7100. Now I’m trying to set it up by reading sites. There are 2 cards of 32 each: one on equal access without compression, the second on max. I read somewhere that it’s better to choose not the maximum resolution, but somewhere around 10 megapixels (that is, the sharpness is better for the gpeg from the camera) Is this correct? while standing L
what for? I have both NEFs, in case I forgot to put the second one) or one will break
And if you shoot a lot, you will get tired of raking this heap over time. One NEFC is almost 40 meters. (and still need to process). And if you just shoot (just to be), then what for both NEFs ???
Please tell me, Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm f / 1,8G - is it suitable for this camera?
Yes fit
Hello! Clarify: Does the D7100 have metering and confirmation of focus on manual lenses?
There is. For AI lenses
So what about the "carrot" skin tone like in the D7000? Does this camera solve this problem, or is it the same crap as in 7000? Pixels increased and with color do what you want.
The problem is resolved. Instead of carrot-pig, skinton became a carrion-gray
For the D7000, the skinton problem is resolved, try the same on the D7100.
1. For in-camera jpeg - use the picture control profile Canon 5D M2 from the nikonpc website. com
2. For a more thorough processing of NEF and previously filmed JPGs, we use a preset from Varezhkin for the native developer of Capture NX-D. In this case, in the settings, we reduce the saturation -40, contrast -10. Adjust the white balance and contrast to taste, in especially severe cases, turn off Active D-lighthing.
Both options give very good results, the second is slightly better, the first is camera jpeg of normal quality at once.
The wax coating leaves the skin when shooting with a flash or in the sun, the contrast is added to the skin, the grayish-yellowish-greenish coating on the whole photo is slightly tinted, the picture becomes cleaner, more voluminous due to the contrast.
Even if you drive an Audi A6, you still want something more.
Upgrade or transition from D7200 to D750, my thoughts and impressions. First, let's see this link.
https://camspex.com/ru.comparison.php?camera1=Nikon+D7200&camera2=Nikon+D750
in which you can see what is the advantage of the D750 over the D7200 or the FX over the DX, this is twice as much ISO with the same SNR - the signal-to-noise ratio at the output. Otherwise, where it is better, where it is worse with almost equal functionality.
Looking at this, I came to the conclusion that, you can get the same quality on crop by compensating for high ISOs, in particular, by increasing the aperture by 1,41 (ex. F4-> F2.8) and decreasing the ISO by one step ( ex. 1600-> 800) we get the same noise level as on the D750 (ISO 1600 - you can see the graphs on DXOMARK) at the output and the same exposure. In this case, the thought of replacing the whale zoom lens with a fast zoom or fast prime is obvious. There are, of course, other issues associated with compensation for high ISOs due to exposure - these are depth of field, bokeh nature, sharpness at closed apertures due to diffraction, etc.
In this case, I focused on “toad” or “sober calculation” in assessing the winnings. Here I have indicated aftermarket prices when buying a new model and selling an old one
D7200 + Nikkor18-140F / 3.5-5.6 -> D750 + Nikkor 24-120F / 4 + 600 $, weight 1255-> 1550g
D7200 + Nikkor18-140F / 3.5-5.6 -> D7200 + Sigma17-55F / 2.8 + 125 $ weight 1255-> 1330g
I took the second path, leaving myself 18-140, after all, I consider myself to be the category of advanced amateurs, and I need a camera for shooting family, friends, landscapes and architecture when traveling.
I will not be offended if this calculation can be attributed to the article choosing a camera and lens. At the same time, if the transition is made to new equipment with a guarantee and the sale of the old costs increases, each evaluates its own appropriateness. You can go further and make yourself an assessment table of such Upgrades.
I still have Audi but I want to drive a Mercedes. :)
... and the D750 also has a much worse field coverage with focus points :)
Have you used a Bat.lock on the D7200? Today I bought a BU D7200, everything seems to work, but the battery block (which works fine with my D7100) - only the shutter button and AE-L work, the wheels do not work, the joystick does not work, the battery is “discharged” (despite the fact that if you rearrange it in carcass - it works). I'm wondering if this is a problem with a non-original bat.block, or a carcass problem?
Good people ... Save help! The D7100 does not see the Nikkor 50 1.8f D. The aperture is set as it should, the flag is down. On D90 I checked the glass itself is normal. What can be wrong?
Wipe the contacts on the bayonet with alcohol
On the D90, the glass itself was checked normally. From other glasses, information about the diaphragm is transmitted. I rubbed it with alcohol.
I don't dare to doubt your skill, Arkady, but if we abstract from everything and look at pictures from different cameras: for example, D700 and D7100. In fact, the pictures from the D7100 are much shittier. I now have a D7000. Photos turned out +/- the same as here in the example. I immediately noticed that the camera is “very afraid of overexposing everything,” so in fine adjustment of the exposure I almost immediately added a brightness of about 20%. I understand that the D700 has probably been the main working tool for a long time and a lot has been shot on it, but nevertheless “one hands, one head”, and the result is different. Even on D90 the examples were better, although the last IMHO is a frank outsider.
Every camera needs a habit
The images in this review were shot indoors with green economical lamps with a torn spectrum. In principle, a light meter can also lie, and the color will be disgusting, and the plots are not very diverse. Plus adaptation to the camera, plus mood, state and desire to create. Too many factors to compare cameras on the forehead.
Good afternoon. I have such bokeh in the optical viewfinder, is it a breakdown? I took a used one, did not immediately check with this lens, the old sigma 18-200 DC, on Nikon's fix 50 - 1,8G is also there, but less - I checked it with it, I didn't pay attention right away
To be honest, I didn’t understand anything. some rag with different light around the edges. and what should be? it is easier to photograph (through the JVI) a page with text evenly lit.
It shoots well, the question is what exactly in the optical viewfinders is the dark edging, when you get the battery out, the edging disappears. I took a picture of the viewfinder myself
still did not understand anything. Nikon has no OVI battery at all dark and matte. this is their feature, on other cameras this is not.
and what is wrong in this photo? that the picture is round and does not occupy the entire field of the JVI?
Maybe the person means the 'grid' of the viewfinder?
Or the AF frame, which is replaced by a dot on younger cameras?
I asked questions and suggested an answer. so we are waiting for the author in the studio with comments :)
About the dark matte OVI with the battery removed - this is not only for Nikonov (only with pentaprism, by the way, but with a pentamirror - without darkening), at least for some Canon - he also held in his hands, it seems, 60d, he also has such a 'trick' (only with a delay - apparently the capacitors hold power for another 10-15 seconds).
I have a 60D - there is no such effect, and it cannot be, because there SI LCD works differently.
in fact, the 7100 has a crop mode 1.3x, maybe it is he who is included.
This is not crop mode, everything is fine on the D3000 with these lenses. It is the black edging in the viewfinder itself
There is NO crop mode on the D3000.
here is the answer http://www.dummies.com/photography/cameras/nikon-camera/reducing-the-image-area-on-your-nikon-d7100/
If I look through the optical viewfinder, I see this picture (dark edges, like strong bokeh in the photo), on a zoom lens there are even more dark edges. in Live View - everything is fine, bokeh is not visible in the pictures. I did not find my problem in the search engine.
In the course of the LCD screen is covered
But what is visible in the JVI if you remove the lens, with an open bayonet mount? and what can you see if you switch the mode to crop?
and what can be seen in the OVI if you remove the lens - everything is uniform, there are no dark edges
what can be seen if you switch the mode to crop - nothing changes
is the camera turned on? (when with an empty bayonet mount)
They wrote that the problem with the focusing screen - I will take it to the service, they will look
The eyepiece lens may be biased.
Yes, the problem was in the focus screen, or rather in its absence. We put it on - everything is fine now.
It’s good that the problem is resolved. I wonder only where the original screen went?
Colleagues, your advice is required.
I am a professional photographer in the past, 20+ years on film, at the beginning of the century I haven’t switched to digital, I went into another business. A year ago, I bought 5100 for my granddaughter, she became interested in photography, began to teach it, and struck such nostalgia that she decided to try to return to the profession after an 18-year break. Three old Nikon glasses have remained from the old days: 80-200 / 2.8, 28-70 / 3.5-4.5 and fifty fifty.
To begin with, I tried to take my strength 7000 with a screwdriver with a whale of 18-105, gave the whale to my granddaughter at 5100, she had a very simple 18-55, which was absolutely nothing :), and put my old glasses at 7000. I shot several classes, on general and portraits, 80-200 worked perfectly, but parents liked the general photos, but I myself didn’t. Well, not the quality that I'm used to giving to the customer.
This is the prehistory, now the actual question. What will give a greater increase in quality, a change of carcass to 7100 or a change of glass to 17-55 / 2.8?
And I won't pull the carcass and glass at the same time now, everything that I earned went to light: 3 AD200pro, racks, software ... and the spring was lost because of the pandemic ...
Who owned 7000 and 7100 with glass 17-55 / 2.8, give good advice please.
Of course, change the glass, not the camera, if you stay on the crop.
though buying D3s would be a different story. it is now not that expensive and worth it. paired with 80-200 2.8 will be perfect. and for group photos - 24-70 2.8G, used. can be found for not very expensive.
Most likely you are not satisfied with the sharpness of the pictures.
You have a good set of lenses for shooting portraits, including group ones. Of course, the most popular among all photographers is the 24 (28) -70 (75) / 2,8 zoom for FF. Many “weddings” use 70-200 / 2,8 VR (!) On the same FF.
In these conditions, the D7100 will not give any increase in quality. Also does not help and 17-55 / 2,8. A studio portrait does not need high-aperture optics. And for a group portrait 17-55 is too close. When shooting a class, the distance from the center of the group and its flanks to the apparatus is very different and with a sharp center, the edges can be in the soap. Therefore, the farther you are, the smaller the difference in distance.
There are online depth of field calculators to pre-determine shooting modes.
Or maybe it’s worth doing lens alignment? It seems the D7000 has a fine-tuning for autofocus lenses.
Try shooting in LiveView. Focusing will be more accurate, although slower.
Pay attention to the fact that before you shot 35 mm on film, and now on 1,5 crop. On crop, it is more difficult to remove from hand without grease at identical shutter speeds with FF.
ISO is better than the minimum possible, and a short shutter speed will be extended by the flashes - one will be the key, the other, with a low power - the fill.
Maybe you should look at the Н.600 / 610? Glasses under your FF, 28-70 will not suit you for general plans - contact 24, 28 / 2,8.
If in September schoolchildren will be removed from a remote control, then I will earn money for the FF during the season, no question, now there is no money for it, about a hundred went into the world, a tripod, software and racks. There is 30k left, you can’t buy a normal FF carcass for this.
And the question is, is FF really needed?
He paints 80-200 portraits and is awesome on the crop, I have only a wide-angle problem. Well, I myself don’t like it, either the sharpness or the clarity is not enough, it can’t seem to resolve this old film glass normally, so I will unambiguously remove my old man 28-70 / 3.5-4.5.
Now I’m thinking about what to do, buy to 7000 17-55 / 2.8 or take 7100 and for now put on it a whale 18-105, which now stands at 5100 from the granddaughter.
I hope all glasses are checked and adjusted for front / back focus.
I own a d7000 and purchased a d7100, for me - the first one perceives old glass better. Perhaps this is due to the number of pixels, or maybe I'm not used to 7100 yet. And I like 17-55, 2,8 by 7000 more.
At 7100, the Sigma 17-55 / 2,8 or 17-70 / 2,8-4 will be better. For a 24MP sensor, 18-105, 18-140 are not sharp enough, especially for portraits and indoors.
Thank you very much for the fact that you Arkady so lucidly and cleverly illuminated the subject of Camera D7100. I am 74 years old I have a large amateur and professional practice of working with digital cameras. cameras and I have two of them d90 and d7100. but because of bad English, I soon do not understand the settings well and thanks to such smart people as you, it comes to me that something doesn’t come to me sometimes by the stick method. Of course, if you could help me set up my D7100 for work I use SB800 at home .Tipe file JPEG normal Question are you doing classes for people like me I would gladly be your student NOT FREE.
Do you have a camera menu in English? In the settings, you can change it to Russian.
Hello! Your advice is very necessary. Should I change my D3200 to D7100? Will there be a noticeable difference in the picture? I shoot family photo sessions + indoor reporting of holidays. Nikkor AF-S 35 f1.8 lens, I also plan to purchase Sigma 17-55 f2.8. Thank you in advance for your response
There will be no tangible difference in the picture. The difference is more in control, convenience. If you shoot a lot, then it makes sense to change.
Good afternoon. Help with the choice. Not long ago I had a d3100 with a kit lens 18-55. I didn't use it especially, from the word at all. I didn't like the picture, it was pale. On the advice of a friend who is fond of photography, including shooting to order, I bought a nikon 35mn 1.8. And I felt the difference in comparison with the kit lens. But they broke my camera, they offered to buy the same one. I want to take it with money, add and buy d 7100. The same friend insists on a full frame. I'm confused. I will shoot a child, family, rest, matinees in the garden, etc., that is, for myself. I am inclined to believe that the crop is enough for my eyes. Arguments for ff - the picture is juicier and brighter, less processed. I am not a professional, and I do not strive for this. Therefore, I'm leaning towards 7100. But maybe you should pay attention to some other model? From Nikonov, since there is a fix 35. And the most important question - if you still take the 7100, then what kind of zoom lens should you take? I plan to photograph mostly children. Both indoors and outdoors.
The difference between full frame and crop is not exactly measured, it is “brightness” and “richness”. These are smartphones that color the picture in their own way, while cameras, by default, are designed to transmit the image in a neutral way. And that's a matter of taste, which preset to wind in the camera or in the editor for the sake of visual appeal. Therefore, the real arguments for FF are that it will be easier to separate the subject from the background by blurring and the image quality will be better at high ISO (which you will inevitably have to use in low light / dynamic scenes).
The image quality will also be higher at low ISOs.
But it would be good for Evgenia to think that both lenses are needed for a full shot, and not cheap.
I would vote 7100 + sigma 17-50
“I will shoot a child, family, rest, matinees in the garden, etc., that is, for myself. "
The key is for yourself.
If you choose for yourself, then you can get by with b / y.
Or something not very expensive, if there is a fear of second-hand.
From Nikkor new relatively inexpensive 24-85 / 3.5-4.5, 24-120 / 4.
If used, then 28-105 / 3.5-4.5 are criminally cheap, which is enough for the first time.
"Juicy" and "brightness" ... I will not comment on this. How to compare a camera with a mobile phone.
d7100 is good for everyone, except for one thing: if the picture is taken in the dark and you have to pull it out in post-processing, the so-called `` black '' appears in the shadows. "Banding" - nasty light stripes. Although even at 6400, you can take quite acceptable pictures - if you do not draw shadows.
Therefore, if possible, take 7200, there this jamb was fixed. Or really FF - all other things being equal, work in poor lighting conditions (matinees) will be better. For example, d610 + Tamron 2.8 / 28-75.
Hello.
Nikon D7100
Please advise which lenses are more practical to buy.
Now kit 18-105 (the bayonet needs to be changed, so I don't use it)
AF Nikkor 35-80 mm (1: 4 -5.6D) - I don't know why I bought it. Money down the drain.
And one of these days there will be Young 35mm
I will be glad to any advice.
Usually there should be a good all-rounder: nikon 17-55 / 2.8, nikon 16-80 N, Sigma 18-35 / 1.8, Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 OS, Tamron 17-50 / 2.8 VC and one for creativity, usually this is something then from light fixes: nikon 35 / 1.8 DX, nikon 50 / 1.8G, nikon 50 / 1.4G, nikon 85 / 1.8G, etc.
Tell me, who shoots with the d7100, say, if you shoot in room light in the evening (whale or 35mm 1.8) with a built-in flash, faces are pink, red? Often problems with skin tone are real? And I look at Nikon's hair in the photo, even under good conditions, is it red? I have an old Canon under difficult conditions, the face turns yellow, in an apartment without a flash in the evening in winter there are noises at fifty dollars. Tell me how things are with faces, hair on Nikon.
I don't know if it's relevant, but let it be. I shoot with a 7100 and use the built-in flash very rarely, only if the light is in trouble. Let's say, even in a regular library, the lighting is sufficient to shoot somewhere in the range 1/100 + F4 + ISO 800-1250. Although I shot even at 6400 - it comes out quite digestible (see example). With a flash I can illuminate a little, and then only with a diffuser.
I didn't notice any regularities in color distortions, and I didn't bother trying to get the right picture right in the camera. In any case, such pictures have to be properly edited, and not so much so that the skin tone is “correct”, but so that it is the same for the same person in different pictures.
In addition to distorted colors, the built-in flash often produces ugly oily reflections on the skin and harsh shadows. In general, the built-in flash is a last resort.
The only real jamb with the matrix in the 7100 is the sometimes appearing "banding", that is, noticeable stripes in the shadows when you try to stretch them. The rest is +/- like everyone else; the main thing is the light and the lens.
Oops ... The example can be ignored, it was filmed on "Fuji" ... I slowed down a little: D
Hello) Can you please tell me if the Samyang 85mm f / 1.4 AS IF UMC lens will work with Nikon D7100?
Hello, if the lens is under Nikon and it is working properly, then yes.
Yes, I have a new and Nikon mount. It's just that d3000 is very difficult to focus on right now.
for ease of focusing, it is better to take an autofocus lens. It is unlikely that switching from D3000 to D7100 will greatly simplify the focusing process with this lens.
I also have a Samyang 85mm f / 1.4 and also plan to upgrade to the D7100. The lens is simply amazing, the only subtlety is manual focus. So with the D3200, when focusing through the viewfinder, the confirmation indicator lights up at a certain range of rotation of the ring, that is, within a small angle of rotation of the focusing ring, the camera sees that the object is in focus, but we understand that the focus can only be in one position. As a result, misses. Therefore, I focus only through live view, except perhaps for facial and waist-length portraits.
So it’s interesting how the D7100 will work when focusing through the viewfinder, how much more comfortable it will be to see the “hit” with the eyes, as I understand the D7100 has a more advanced viewfinder. And will the camera also see confirmation in what interval of the ring stroke, or is it still one single point?
Love, if you have already bought D7100 and tried it with Samyang 85mm please write your impressions of this bundle.
1. The viewfinder of the 7100 is larger, but not drastically. aiming with pure eyes is just as difficult at distances other than the near-minimum.
2. There will be no confirmation at any one point. The prompt will flash in the same way and light up in a certain range. You have to get used to it. When I was shooting at d3000, the exact hit was not at the moment of a confident glow of the point, but as soon as it starts blinking, and only if you rotate the focusing ring from MDF to infinity. If rotated in the opposite direction or tightened to a steady glow, 99% of the time there will be a miss. Experiment with your camera, it may have a different algorithm.
Thank you.
I tried everything, of course, the best option is only through live view, but I'll try the technique described by you. And I think in tandem with the focus break, you can get at least one accurate shot out of three, four.
Focus bracketing (when you hit with a series of shooting and rotate the focusing ring) is a really working thing, but then you are reluctant to rake 5-10 times more shots, and the shutter resource is depleted as much faster. And if you do this in the cold, then you can completely kill the camera, especially if it is old (I ran into this last winter). I'd rather slowly aim and get into focus from 1-3 frames, especially since my objects usually don't run away anywhere.
Give advice to understanding people.
My two main directions are astrophotography and portraits, now I shoot with the D3200, and a couple of years ago I realized that I grew out of it. I want to change and I liked the D7100. Basically I want to change the camera for three reasons: 1. I really lack high-speed sync with flash (well, very much) 2. Portrait optics are manual, so the possibility of shooting through live view without lowering the mirror will be relevant. 3. I would like to have a higher working ISO for shooting the starry sky.
I even thought about purchasing a second D90-type camera for portrait photography due to the high-speed sync in it.
I began to study the reviews and reviews on the D7100 and began to doubt. I'm afraid to be disappointed. What it is: incorrect white balance and long work with images in the editor, stripes when lightening dark areas, the noise level is the same as in the D3200.
I even thought about the D610, but my budget will only pull a completely ushatched one.
Thank you for the article. Help me choose, I got carried away with the photo from the D3100 + (kit 18-55), now I want something more serious. I'm looking closely at the D7100 / D5200 / D610 + fixed f / 1.8 35 or 50mm. An important criterion is shooting at night with hands, with landscapes and portraits, in general, 3100 will cope, but more difficult conditions are a problem for him. Working ISO 800 is very limiting, well, optics without a screwdriver are more expensive. In the 5000s, the rotary screen is very attractive, is it much worse than the 7100? And is 610 much better than all these crops?
D610 is definitely better.
The D600 / D610 are generally among the best affordable cameras in terms of working ISO. You cannot compare with any crop. I also had a D5100. This is nothing at all when it comes to working with low light. If you are not embarrassed by the size of a full-frame camera and the fact that it will require appropriate lenses, then the choice is obvious.
What to shoot at night? If there are black cats, then 610 is unambiguous, if there are black trees, then it is better to look towards cameras with a stabilizer or a tripod.
Night streets, nature without a tripod, in order to be more mobile and not spend several minutes for one shot in the evening.
Better then, look towards the crop with built-in stabilization. Plus the lens is lighter. The same Sonya, Olympus, Fuji. Well, or Pentax (current is not older than K-5). ISO will be less when shooting, and DOF will be more open.
On double crops, handheld night photography is not very good - how many examples I have seen - the picture turns out to be loose (noise reduction), with floated flowers and poor DD.
By itself, any crop will produce a flatter image than FF.
For walks at night, it is better to choose something like Canon 6D + 35/2 with a stub, as an option D610 / D750 + Tamron 35 / 1.8 with a stub (as an option, 35 / 2D may be suitable - it is very light).
Of the crop, there is a back-illuminated matrix on Fujah (X-T4) and on the New Pentax K3 MK3. They say both there and there ISO1600-2000 working. But they are expensive.
As a result, I would recommend the author to stop at the D610.
There ISO 400-800 maximum is obtained at night and there are no problems until 1600. Noise control is how to set it up and in general it is relevant for JPEG. There are no special problems with DD (it is clear that not FF). But at the FF ISO will have to bully, so in such conditions there will be at least parity (and in my experience it works out even better). That's when from a tripod - then yes, 750 gives odds
"But at the FF ISO will have to bully, so in such conditions there will be at least parity"
There will be no parity between FF and Crop. If taken for comparison, the camera is about one generation.
On doublecrop, most handheld photos in the dark look bad.
Even if an expensive high-aperture fix is screwed on. The picture is strained, loose, with acid colors and bad DD.
From ISO800 onwards, as a rule, it is almost unusable. Or of little use.
At 1600, almost always horror without noise.
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Crop / 1.5 is better. The picture is more collected. The colors are not so acidic. DD is better. Working ISOs are generally similar to double-cropping, but the picture on the same ISOs looks more adequate. The new Fujahs are backlit ISO 2000 workers.
I'm just planning to buy an X-T4 for my travels and test it. I had X100T, my friend X100F - you can shoot at night, but I liked the picture less than with ff. On any crop at night, a matrix stub and a stub in the lens are almost mandatory. The lens is again desirable for a sharp high-aperture.
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FF cameras of the same generation are always better than crop / double-crop of the same generation for working at night. This is physics.
There are exceptions - small-pixel D800-810, D850, 5DS-5DSr.
On 5DSr-DS ISO800 threshold, 1200 noise. On the D800-810 iso1600 the threshold, after which noise usually creeps in and the picture degrades.
On old FF, depending on the camera, the ceiling is ISO 800-1600, sometimes 2000.
D3S ISO3200 working.
On old FFs and small-pixel FFs, as well as on all crops, a sharp high-aperture fix is needed for handheld shooting at night, preferably with a stub. Or just a modern lightweight fast zoom lens with a stub
Recently I managed to shoot on 1Dsmk3 at night on ISO 800. And the picture as a whole was on this ISO
I repeat under the budget of the vehicle, for night walks there is nothing better than the D600-610-750 or Canon 6D with fixed lenses.