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Nikon D7100 body review
Nikon D7100 is a very interesting camera, it is a fresh breath of air among cameras Nikon DX Series. An absolutely new one with a standard lens came to me to review the Nikon D7100 Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical. This review provides information on the camera itself. Nikon D7100 body.
Nikon D7100 rear view
Matrix Nikon D7100
Nikon D7100 uses a 24.7MP sensor, only 24MP is effective, which allows you to take pictures of 6000 * 4000 pixels. Sometimes they indicate a size of 24.1MP, but these different numbers 24.7, 24.0, 24.1 do not matter, anyway, the picture is created using 24.000.000 pixels, so I will talk strictly about 24MP. Most likely, the Nikon D7100 uses the same matrix as the Nikon D5200 и D7200. A complete list of all used sensors (matrices) on the Nikon central control center can be viewed here. True, due to the different matrix body kit and different processing of the output signal, in the end we can get a different image. Now megapixels you won’t surprise anyone, and they are not always so useful, I advise you to look into my section Battle of Megapixels.
The main feature is not 24MP matrix, but lack of an optical low-pass filter in front of the matrix (OLPF - optical low-pass filter, LPF - low-pass filter). Speaking very roughly, the absence of an OLPF filter will help to squeeze the maximum sharpness out of the lens and get the maximum details in the photo. I wonder why the camera was not called Nikon 'D7100E' after Nikon D800E.
The camera can use ISO 100-6400 and expand its value to ISO 25.600 (ISO HI2). There is no great benefit from ISO Hi1, HI2, it is also strange that the Nikon D7100 does not use ISO 50 (Lo 1) how to do it Nikon D600, D610, D800, D800E, D4, D4s an extra ISO stop would be nice. Nikon D7100 works very well with ISO auto control function and can independently select the desired shutter speed for each lens. In automatic mode excerpts for the Auto ISO function, 5 steps can be set for fine tuning, from a shorter automatic excerptsup to a longer automatic excerpts. You can also set the range of the automatic ISO, for example from ISO 800 to HI1.
Another hallmark of the Nikon D7100 is dotted white balance in live view. The function is very useful and you need to get used to it. In Live View, just select white balance PRE, hold down the WB button and wait for the yellow rectangle to appear, moving the rectangle, you need to set it to the point at which measurement will be performed white balance. To measure in this selected zone, you need to press the shutter button, while the camera will not take a picture, but only take a measurement BB.
This is how two cameras look like - Nikon D7100, Nikon D5200 with similar matrices
Nikon D7100 Focus System
Nikon D7100 uses an updated focus module Advanced Multi cam 3500DX with 51 focus points, 15 of which are cross-shaped. Rumor has it the Nikon D7100 is small Nikon D4. Do not believe it. Although Nikon D4 and Nikon D7100 use 51 focus points, they have different focus modules. Nikon D7100 uses Advanced Multi cam 3500DX, While Nikon D4 - Advanced Multi cam 3500FX. The difference is that Nikon D4 can focus with F / 8.0 lenses using 11 points, and the Nikon D7100 using only one point. I have written in more detail about the focus modules here... Still, Nikon D7100 has a paper focusing module that looks better than Nikon D300, D300s, D3, D3s, D3x, as it can work with dark F/5.6-F/8.0 lenses with a single center focus point. To put it bluntly, the D7100 should focus better in poor lighting conditions. In fact, I did not notice much difference.
It's very nice that the Nikon D7100 good viewfinder coverage with focus points, same as Nikon D300, D300s. And most importantly, when working in 1.3x mode, coverage with focus points becomes simply wonderful. Even Nikon D2xs cannot boast of such a high-quality coverage of the focus area in its High Speed Crop mode. In fact, the quality of tracking moving objects in focus, the ability to compose a frame, etc., depend on the coverage area with focus points.
Nikon D7100 performs very well in dynamic focus area selection mode. In this case, 9, 21 or 51 focus points can be used. I advise you to play around with these modes. Another important method of autofocus is the 3D tracking function, which is very useful for shooting objects moving in the frame. 3D tracking works in tandem with the metering system exposurethat can recognize the type of scene being shot and improve the performance of the auto focus system.
Nikon D7100 has fine tuning of focus. You can also set the priority of the focus mode for AF-C, AF-S, in more detail about focus adjustment on Nikon cameras you can find here. Of course, the Nikon D7100 has a built-in focus motor that allows you to use a bunch of lenses AF type.
Optional Accessories for Nikon D7100
Crop mode 1.3x
The Nikon D7100 came up with one tricky mode of operation. You can shoot using the entire area of the sensor in the normal DX mode (24 x 16 mm), or you can select the crop mode 1.3 x (18 x 12 mm). In 1.3x mode EGF lenses equals FR multiplied by 2. For example, if you install fifty dollars on the Nikon D7100 Nikon 50 mm f / 1.4G AF-S Nikkorthen EGF becomes equal to 100 mm. This is logical, because 1.5 x 1.3 \u1,95d 2 (approximately 1.3). This mode can save some money for those who like to shoot from afar. In XNUMX mode, you can take pictures 4800 by 3200 pixels (15.3MP)That is enough even for serious post processing. Personally, I liked the mode because of the increase in the coverage area with focus points and the increase in shooting speed up to 7 fps. By the way, this mode also works when shooting video.
1.3x mode the inactive area does not darken in the viewfinderfor example in the camera Nikon D2xs in the high speed crop mode, the inactive area is darkened, this increases the usability of such a cropped mode. To start the 1.3x crop mode, just press the INFO button and select DX <-> 1.3x there.
Two brothers - Nikon D7100, Nikon D7000 with 18-105 VR lenses
Nikon D7100 Speed
The camera can shoot at a speed 6 frames per second, the predecessor had the same speed Nikon D7000. But there was an opportunity expand the shooting speed to 7 frames per second in 1.3x mode.
Attention: 7 frames per second in 1.3x mode is only available when shooting in JPEG or RAW 12 bit, only 14 fps is available in RAW 6 bit mode.
Attention 2: in normal DX mode, 6 frames per second is only available if RAW 14 bit mode is turned off. If you shoot with RAW 14 bit quality, then the maximum speed is only 5 frames per second.
In total, with the best image quality (RAW 14 bit, RAW 14 bit + JPEG), the shooting speed is lower than that of Nikon D7000 with the same settings. Where is the world heading?
In general, this speed will be enough for almost any situation. 7fps is pretty good, but still not 8fps like older models Nikon D300, D300s, D700.
Nikon D7100 with battery pack and 16-85VR lens
Buffer
The buffer at the camera is small. With one memory card, if you turn off all additional functions that improve the quality of pictures, such as
- Active D-lighting
- Auth. distortion management
- Under. noise for lengths. exposure.
- Under. noise for high. ISO
- Auto ISO
That in JPEG mode is placed in the buffer
- 9 shots, JPEG L optimal quality
- 12 shots, JPEG L size priority
- 12 shots, JPEG L optimal quality in 1.3X mode
- 15 shots, JPEG L size priority in 1.3X mode
- about 4-5 JPEG pictures L Optimal quality with all additional functions switched on at maximum at ISO HI2
RAW:
- 6 shots, 14-bit, lossless compression
- 7 shots, 14-bit, conventional compression
- 7 shots, 12-bit, lossless compression
- 8 shots, 12-bit, conventional compression
- 7 shots, 14-bit, lossless compression, 1.3x mode
- 8 shots, 14-bit, normal compression, 1.3x mode
- 8 shots, 12-bit, lossless compression, 1.3x mode
- 10 shots, 12-bit, normal compression, 1.3x mode
- 5 shots, 14-bit, lossless compression, DX RAW + JPEG L quality priority
- about 3-4 snapshots, 14-bit, lossless compression when all additional functions on ISO HI2 are turned on to the maximum
It turns out that the maximum buffer can hold in RAW format only 10 shots, and with the best shooting quality '14 -bit, lossless compression '- the buffer contains total 6 shots. Due to the fact that the pictures are very heavy, the camera after 6 pictures in RAW (NEF) format will not take the next frame until it writes at least one picture to the memory card from the buffer. With my ADATA SDHC 32GB class 10 card, the camera pauses for a long time while shooting. I checked if using two memory cards, this does not save the situation with the camera stopping during serial shooting. In order to maximally prolong burst shooting, you should use the fastest memory cards, or shoot in JPEG.
RAW files with 14-bit color depth, lossless compression in DX mode weighs up to 40MB. Unlike professional cameras, such as Nikon D300s - Nikon D7100 cannot use uncompressed RAW format. For huge, heavy files on the camera, you can find two nests for cards of type SD, SDHC, SDXC UHS-I... You can set up work with cards for:
- Overflow. When the first card is filled, recording is made on the second.
- Reservation - the same picture is recorded on both cards. Very useful for capturing very important events, where you need to ensure that the data is not lost in any way.
- Record RAW on one card, and JPEG files on another. Just a convenient feature.
Nikon D7100 shows off its super performancewhich he gets through the EXPEED 3 image processing system. Roughly speaking, EXPEED 3 is the processor that does all the calculations in the camera. But in fact, this EXPEED 3 cannot squeeze out 6-7 fps at 14-bit color depth. If EXPEED 3 is as good as they write, then I could have worked hard and removed this limitation without spoiling the overall good camera performance.
It's strange for me that Nikon cannot normally solve the speed problem with 14-bit color depth, this problem is still very acute in models Nikon D300 и D300s, forcing them to work at a snail speed of 2.5 frames per second. And then she migrated to Nikon D5300, D5500 и D7200.
Nikon D7100 with 18-105 VR side view. Plugs for different connectors on the camera.
Shooting, metering system, turn-on speed
Can be shot at shutter speeds from 30 seconds to 1 / 8000 withit’s good that the Nikon D7100 has no stripped down excerpts in 1/4000 s, which is set to Nikon D600. The camera shutter must work at least 150,000 cycles - pretty good for an amateur camera. Also, Nikon D7100 uses independent control of the mirror and apertureThis allows a very small shutter lag. The lag is only 0,052 s... Unlike many cameras, the Nikon D7100 may not lower the mirror to capture the frame in Live View - it will simply release the shutter. In other cameras, for example Nikon D90, D700 responsible for controlling the mirror and aperture general mechanism, which operates in a standard cycle and the Live View should always lower the mirror, only after which shooting can be performed.
Measurement exposure based on 2016-pixel RGB sensorsame as cameras D600, D7000, D5200. In more detail about measurement exposure can read here. The camera can easily work with non-chip lenses, for example, with old AI-S lenses or with Soviet lenses. You can configure the soft key to quickly select a lens from the list.
With one battery charge, the camera can easily squeeze over 1000 shots. The number of photos that can be obtained on a single battery charge depends on many factors. By the way, the EN-EL15 battery itself is exactly the same as that of Nikon D800,D800E, D600, D610, D7000.
У D7000 there was a cover for the display :)
Video
In normal mode, you can shoot with a maximum quality of 1920 x 1080; 30p, 25p, 24p or 1280 x 720; 60p, 50p format H.264 / MPEG-4 AVC. It is important that in 1.3x mode you can shoot video with quality 1920 x 1080 60i, 50i... You can choose high or normal video quality. It's also nice that the Nikon D7100 has a built-in stereo microphone. In AF-F focus mode, continuous focus tracking is available when shooting video, tracking focus works just awful, When recomposing an AF-F frame, it often does not respond at all. Recording video on a DSLR camera with auto focus is a very unpleasant task for me, it’s better to use manual focus when shooting a video.
To shoot video, you must set the Live View lever to 'camcorder' mode. Recording is done using the red button next to the shutter button. It is possible to record video via HDMI to an external device without video compression, and work via HDMI with a large TV while Live view is on. There was no HDMI cable in the package, I really wanted to, but could not test this function to the level of its convenience.
In the manual control mode of the camera 'M', shooting video with manual control is available excerpts and ISO. Exposure can be set from 1 \ 30 to 1 \ 8000 seconds. When shooting a video, you can immediately change the ISO value. It is convenient to shoot video in manual mode and the Auto ISO function is on. In P, A, S modes, you can shoot video and make corrections exposure for video using the '+ \ -' button on + -3 ev In other scene modes, correction exposure not available.
Attention: while recording a video do not change aperture value, which will be filmed, therefore, you need to set the aperture value before turning on Live View.
Display, housing
Nikon D7100 has a new display with 1.229.000 points and measuring 3.2 inches (8cm). The number of dots on the display of the Nikon D7100 is even higher than that of the Nikon D4 / D4s, D800 / D800E, D600 / D610. It is also very important that the display itself is made on the basis of an RGBW matrix. Prior to this, the display matrix was manufactured using conventional RGB pixel technology (red green blue - red, green, blue). The new technology allows for better display of information in bright light.
New matrix on the display Nikon D7100
The display of the Nikon D7100 turned out really шикарный. But the display does not have a protective cover, such as Nikon D90, D700, D7000.
That's not all, the new Nikon D7100 uses information display in the optical viewfinder. Now bottom info bar glows white, not green, new organic EL technology has improved the perception of information in bright shooting conditions and reduced the 'brakes' of such a display in cold weather.
Indicators of a new type based on EL are shown in yellow
The case at the camera is half done magnesium alloy. The case has special rubber seals. The most important thing Nikon D7100 has weather and dust protection, it is alleged that camera security is no worse than D800, D300s. The camera is pleasant to the touch, well assembled. The front and rear control dials are rubberized. The camera has a comfortable grip. In severe conditions, I did not test the camera :), but for complete dust and moisture protection, appropriate lenses are needed. I don’t know where to look at the list of dustproof or waterproof Nikon lenses.
Housing Nikon D7100. Yellow seals for weather and dust protection
Weighs a 765g camera with a battery.
Sample Photos
All photos were shot on a Nikon D7100 and lens Nikon 85mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor. Photos without processing, on-camera JPEG Fine L, VI, only reduced to 3 MP and data imprinted EXIF. Here is the original ISO 6400 image (VI, matrix metering).
Useful Features and Functions
- Active D-lighting, automatic control of chromatic aberration and distortion. True, these functions reduce the number of frames in the series, although the official website says that EXPEED 3 copes with this.
- Optional monochrome display for quick camera use. The display has a green backlight, the backlight is turned on using the camera's power button.
- HDR with different levels, you can set Moderate, Normal, Amplified, Super Amplified and Auto level. The camera takes two pictures in a row and combines them into one.
- For lovers of photo processing and shooting with various interesting filters in the Nikon D7100 installed a whole bunch of them. There are even two effects for shooting video.
- For easy camera setup without extra efforts, there are special automatic modes, such a set: Portrait, Landscape, Child, Sport, Macro, Night portrait, Night landscape, Party, Indoors, Beach, Snow, Sunset, Twilight (almost a saga :)) , Dawn, Pet Portrait, Candlelight, Flower, Autumn Colors, Products. I am often asked if a level camera is suitable for a beginner Nikon D7000, D7100 - I answer that it will do, now you understand that it will be easier for a beginner to shoot with such a huge set of automatic modes.
- Ability to use the booster MB-D15. Can connect the Nikon D7100 from the network using an EH-5b AC adapter with an EP-5B connector.
- I like very much shooting mode locks on the control wheel. Some write that this interferes with quick access to different shooting modes, but in fact this is a very useful function. Very often you can accidentally knock off the shooting mode, for example from 'A' to 'M', which can lead to a bunch of defective photos. I really missed such a blocker on my Nikon D90.
- Outputs for an external microphone, USB, HDMI, 3.5 output for headphones. Another connector for controlling the camera.
- Flash Nikon D7100 can remotely control other external flash units. You can read more in the section Nikon CLS. Nikon D7100 also supports fast synchronization with external flash units, in more detail here. Minimum sync with the built-in flash is 1/320 s.
- The camera can work remotely using the WR-1 module or the WR-R10 + WR-T10 kit, which use radio control. WR-1 allows you to remotely control almost all the functions of the camera. I did not use this device, but it should be something interesting. Also, the Nikon D7100 can use the WU-1a adapter to transfer files and control the camera using devices based on iOS, Android. And you can also use the UT-1 module to transfer data from the camera using WLAN (wi-fi). And finally, you can use the GP-1 / GP-1A to record GPS data for each shot. In short, they made a lot of new trinkets for the camera, now the main thing is to deal with them all.
- The virtual horizon in Live View and in the optical viewfinder. True, you need to try to turn on the virtual horizon in JVI.
- Interval Timer Shooting multiple exposure.
- Of course, the camera has a matrix cleaning system.
- Nikon D7100 has 3 programmable buttons, only the functions that can be hung on them are not very useful in operation.
- In RGB view mode bar charts You can view the histogram for any selected image fragment.
- You can set the center button in image review mode to quickly enlarge the image. This is a very, very useful feature. I advise you to turn it on. This is done using the f1 setting -> View mode -> Zoom on / off. -> desired magnification. The same can be done for fast Live View zoom. In shooting mode, I advise you to set the button to 'Select center. focus points. ' (the third trick is in this article).
- Bracketing exposure, white balance и ADL.
- The camera uses a pentaprism with special enlightenment in the optical viewfinder. Coverage of the field of view is 100%.
- Quiet shooting mode 'Q'. And modes for U1, U2 for convenient customization of the camera.
- The easiest method to remotely control the shutter is to use the remote ML-L3. The camera has two remote control infrared signal receivers, front and rear.
Camera wheel and new 'I' button
Nikon D7100 Personal Impressions
The camera is great, but still I expecting an heir Nikon D300s with its full magnesium body, 8 fps, and a bunch of fine useful little things, as a result received a very good upgrade Nikon D7000. Because Nikon D7100 is still namely an amateur camera. It is very strange that the Nikon D300s are not debited, but they also do not replace it. Users Nikon D300, D300s are forced to either go full frame or go down to level D7100. The same situation is with Canon, where the advanced 7D can not be replaced with a new APS-C camera. Apparently, a serious plot is being prepared against photographers who want to use the highest quality APS-C cameras.
Nikon D7100 is an amateur camera, this indirectly confirms the location of the camera on the official sites
The division into classes is not only a convention, but also a huge number of subtleties, about which it is sometimes very difficult to write, but which with experience become very useful and felt in practice. Therefore, be extremely careful which camera to buy.
In general, the situation with the choice of a good advanced Nikon camera has become more acute. Of the new advanced Nikon cameras, I personally see a dilemma - either Nikon D600 / D610 with its full frame and 39 focus points in the center, or the Nikon D7100 with a cropped matrix, but with an excellent focus system and a bunch of small buns. Personally, I believe that the D7100turned out very pretty, with fewer claims than Nikon D600. And if earlier the issue of switching from D300 / D300s on the Nikon D7000 was controversial, now the D7100 should not disappoint owners D300 / D300s (though disappointing though).
UPD: many do not like the color in Nikon D7100 pictures, especially skinton (skin color in portraits). There is a specificity with color.
To whom there is little information, I advise you to look at the reviews (part in English):
- Classic review from DPreview
- Wikipedia no surprise
- The camera scored 83 points on DXO
- Here comparison on snapsort.com with the D7000 и comparison with D7000 on dxo
- Key features on the official website nikon.ru
- Noise test here и here
- Official Nikon video camera presentation
- Немного about D7100 from Kai Wong
- Lovers of boxes - froknowsphoto
- Photo examples at low ISO from the official site
- Others one reviewer
- И Ken rockwell did not pass Nikon D7100
It looks like a Nikon D7100 with a standard (whale lens) Nikon 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical from the delivery
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
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Conclusions:
Nikon D7100 - best advanced amateur DX camera for 2013 (at the time when I write a review about it). Nikon D7100 in 1.3x mode has best viewfinder coverage with focus points, does not have a low pass filter and can accelerate to 7 frames per second. Here's what's new in the Nikon D7100:
- New 3.2-inch display with 1.229.000 dots of the new RGBW type
- Spot metering white balance in real time via live view
- New WR-1 radio remote control, new MB-D15 battery pack
- New UT-1 Wireless Fast Data Device
- The new Advanced Multi-CAM 3500DX focus sensor is the first Nikon DX camera to focus with 'dark' lenses up to and including F / 8.0.
- New mechanism for separate mirror and aperture control
- The new 1.3X framing mode, which also works in video mode (before that, among DX cameras, something similar was only in Nikon D2x, D2xs)
- New i-button control (in addition to the Info button)
- The first DX camera without a low pass filter
- New organic EL display for the optical viewfinder (instead of Transmissive LCD)
In general, it turned out to be a good camera. If there is money, then as an advanced amateur Nikon DX camera recommend Namely Nikon D7100, perhaps in the choice will help here is such an article.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
It seems to me that the resolution on the D7100 is greater, the center of the frame is not very bad at influx of magnification, so the matrix allows, it remains that the edge lens does not pull.
and as always brain EGF)))))
Fixed
Arkady Good afternoon. My first d5100 camera without a focus motor. Now I changed to d7100 how to use the built-in motor correctly, how to properly wear and remove lenses so as not to damage the motor. On af-s lenses, you need to hide a screwdriver before removing or putting on the lens and in what position to put it when working. And how to wear or remove AF lenses? Will the AF-S screwdriver damage the lens if the screwdriver is extended during operation. And vice versa, will the screwdriver break in the extended position using AF-S optics? Thanks for the early ones.
Let me answer, because others are silent.
If I understood the question correctly, then there is no need to think about it at all and nothing needs to be hidden. The screwdriver itself will be in the right place when attaching (or removing) the lens. The main thing is to put on and take off this lens correctly and not go there with your hands. And if the lens is the only one and you are just a photo amateur, then there is nothing to shoot and climb there ...
And how the lens is removed and put on is well described in the instructions for the camera (have you read it?)
I do not think that anyone on this (or any other) site will tell it better than the manufacturer.
Arkady, we need a second camera and there is a dilemma.
Or take the D7000 for $ 350-400 with a mileage of 15-25 thousand after amateur use with whale glass in the load after amateur owners, or take the d7100 for $ 550-600 with the same mileage. They say that the D7000 has a problem with AF - and for some reason on high-aperture glasses there is a drift into the green (like on the D800), and also, like a shake. Should I pay extra for the D7100?
There is little money and the toad croaks. The second camera is needed to replace FF for something not very important. Because ff old and I take it. Will there be a difference on glasses of type 35 / 2D, 28-105 / 3-5-4.5D and old Sigme 28-70 / 2.8? The glasses are old and soapy ... I know. But I don't want to put something expensive on a replacement camera.
My advice is this - do not spare a full-frame camera and use it everywhere and always. It is better for this money (or even much less) and then change the failed assembly (shutter or mirror or whatever). Some cameras can unexpectedly run half a million safely. Set yourself up psychologically that the camera should work constantly.
If we talk about the difference, then the difference will and will be noticeable.
Those. in the picture and in the AF / metering module, the d7100 is noticeably better than the d7000 and is this difference worth the money spent?
But what about the small pixels on the d7100?
Get used to quickly hold tight and gently press the trigger. Plus shutter speed can be slightly reduced.
Once again - no need to look for new adventures, but to shoot with your favorite camera. If initially some camera did not suit, then there was no need to put it out in the proposed options. There are a lot of factors here, a lot. nobody knows what you are shooting, what you are paying attention to, etc.
In general, d7100 is better than d7000. Whether it is worth overpaying is up to you.
Ok, thank you!
I will look at the situation.
The second camera is needed, because need a camera, which is not very a pity if suddenly the police / special forces pinched at a rally. Rally rented. Need fast and accurate AF. Rate of fire is not particularly needed. Need an accurate BB with Nikkor. Preferably the lack of movement.
I shoot on the street (smile) and mostly during the day.
Then take the simplest one, in which case you can finish it. D90 and d7000 just right. And in case of emergency again take your favorite camera.
I used to bother with different cameras and there were situations when troubles helped me (when one of them crashed, I could calmly finish the other). But now I try to work always alone, the second just as a spare, it can be any. Any camera, with due skill of the photographer, will help to shoot the shooting.
Thoughts on this here.
I have a cropped camera, and the TAMRON SP 70-200mm F / 2.8 Di VC USD G2 full-frame lens. Will the effect of the 1,3X crop mode be with him?
Be.
Thank you, Arkady, for the prompt and comprehensive :) answer!
Yesterday I bought a D7200. And I did not see the need for a 1,3X framing mode. I tried to remove one object in it and in 24x18. Then I cut identical fragments from both formats and they turned out to be exactly the same size in pixels. Those. You can shoot everything 24x18 without bothering, and then crop as you like. And the extra frame in the series means practically nothing to me.
Actually digital zoom.
The point of cropping is that the rate of fire increases. Well, more frames go into the buffer.
Hello. Can you tell me if the difference in the final image quality between the d7100 and d5300 is strong? Now I have a second device in my hands, but the presence of a screwdriver is very attractive. How much will I lose if I purchase it instead of the d5300?
Lose mostly whistles greatly facilitating the shooting process. The difference, if any, is only when shooting in JPEG.
You don’t lose much, but you may not gain anything. D7100 is an advanced device, but you need to understand and be able to use all this. Often the D5200 / D5300 or D3300 / D3200 model is more than enough. According to a screwdriver, there are suspicions that I want to buy an inexpensive 50mm 1.8D. In principle, you can take about the same money with the built-in motor Yongnuo 50mm F1.8, with about the same result.
There were two devices on hand at the same time, these are the D5300 and D7200. Unfortunately, the D7100 did not own, so the review can be considered incorrect, but still.
1) 7200 sharper, I noticed during operation: when I looked through the photo, I could accurately tell from which carcass the photo was. Plus I spent an experiment: I attached an 5300-18 lens to 140, and to 7200 18-200 and at full zoom I photographed the opposite balcony with linen. Bottom line: at 5300 the company could not read the T-shirt, but at 7200 with ease. Then I swapped the lenses. Bottom line: I could not read the firm on both. At 5300, it's like interpolation up to 24MP.
2) Next, autofocus: at 5300 there are much more misses and, sometimes, it stupidly cannot hit. For example, on 5300 the Nikkor 35 mm f1.8 dx lens, on 7200 sigma 18-35mm f1.8 set at 35mm. Focusing on the center point, open. Photographing a brand of TV hanging on the wall. 5300 hits the wall only, 7200 hits exactly the brand. I change lenses - the same thing.
3) Next, the viewfinder. Damn, well, after 7200 to 5300 I do not want to watch.
4) Management. Two wheels and a monochrome screen decide on any. It’s like a car with basic equipment and complete. Plus, at 7200, when viewing a photo, you can assign a center key to a 1: 1 scale in order to see focus, shake, etc. At 5300 figs, click the magnifying glass until blue. At 7200 it is easy to turn on burst shooting, or a timer. At 5300 you have to climb the menu forever. And so in everything.
5) Minimum shutter speed 1 \ 8000. Basically, of course, it is not needed, but if there is a good lens, for example, a sigma 50mm f1.4 art (in no case an old horror), then in the sun, hunting is to shoot in the open. Sometimes, of course, 1 \ 8000 is not enough, but very rarely, which can not be said about 1 \ 4000 to 5300. For bad lenses, it is not important, since there will be soap in the sun in the open.
6) High speed flash sync. It’s nice to have such a function in stock.
7) Screwdriver. Screwdriver lenses are sometimes very cheap to sell, but I want to try))) I picked up all sorts of widths and makriki.
8) Shutter sound. After 7200, 5300 sounds like plastic.
9) Battery. One 7200 battery is almost two 5300 batteries, including the operating time.
10) Management of Nikon cls native flashes. Before the acquisition of synchronizers used constantly.
11) There is an opportunity to buy a handle. Yes, it increases the size and weight, but it’s a convenient thing when you shoot directly.
In short, I sold 5300 to hell with dogs and 18-140 there. Draw conclusions
Very informative. Here we must take into account that 5300 is 100% amateur (which is declared by the manufacturer). 7100 - with the habits of a professional. I think about 18-140 you got excited. This glass is considered one of the best. 18-200 is more versatile, but also heavier and the trunk climbs out.
In defense of 18-140, I can say that it is more convenient to twist the zoom, since the site is simply huge.
Will the trunk climb out by weight? Or just when zooming out? So, with a zoom of 18-140, he also climbs. Plus, I remember with horror his motor)) Really, how many glasses I have now and how many were - none of them had such an unpleasant sound. Even a screwdriver buzzes much nicer
I read more than once that 18-140 is one of the best ... Is this marketing such ...? Why is it better and how can it be better for such a price ...? It's just that Nikon set such a low price for him and shouts at every corner that it is the best ...? Today I read about Sergei's experiment and remembered my own experiment ... What did this happen quite by accident and well, what happened, otherwise the irreparable could have happened ... Last year, having 18 -140 and 18-200, I thought that two zooms were superfluous and maybe sell one ... Well, I attached an 7100-18 to the D200 and snapped some box with inscriptions at a distance of 200 meters for 5mm ... Then I attached 18-140 and took a picture of the same box at 140mm from the same distance and was horrified ... From 18-140 soap soap, and at 18-200 clearly ... I put on again 18-200 on the D7100 and took a picture of the same box, but already by 140 mm, everything was also clear ... I put on again 18-140 mm and again shot from different distances and on different focal points - a little soapy ... If there is no small text, then it seems normal ... And I realized that 18-140 is even worse than 18-105 ... I tried 18-140 on the D7000 and now it is much better and there is practically no soap ... The conclusion is unambiguous ... 18-140 does not resolve the 24MP matrix, but 18-200 perfectly resolves ... It would seem that this should not be, because 18-140 was done when it was already 24MP, but 18-200 was done when it was not yet ... The conclusion is disappointing ... Nikon, claiming that 18-140 allows large matrices, turns out to be deceived ...? I don't know what Nikon thought when he stated this, but the fact is obvious ... And I sold this 18-140 after that, because its quality is lower than the baseboard ...
Good afternoon! There is an obsession with buying a new nikon d300s ... (I myself am very surprised, but we still sell it in one online store) At a price it is $ 100 less than the price of 7100. The most important question !!! Is it worth it? And also, since I take pictures only in Jpeg and do not process photos, what's the difference in the quality of the picture ??? I've read a lot about the pros of one or the other ... so it's not worth answering about it .. Only about the final result of the photo in JPEG. Will I notice the difference, say, after nikon d3200? And which way?
Good day! Maybe not the topic, but I don’t know where to look! A crack appeared on the camera body (where the strap is attached, near the additional screen). Interested in the question, the eye itself is attached to the body or top panel, I'm afraid it will come off! Thank you!
Tell me, is it better for a beginner to take the D7100 or is it still the D700? I can not decide. I plan to do this professionally over time.
These are two different in level cameras.
Professionally, you can do this when you physically complete one of them.
Therefore, do not worry, and take the D7100. The matrix is newer, DD is wider than that of a pensioner D700.
Yes, this is not a full-frame camera. But finding live D700s with mileage of about 50 thousand frames or less is very difficult. It was not easy even 3 years ago, and now even more so.
An excellent AF system with the D700 will not come in handy for a very long time, so your first camera may well be the used D7000 from a flea market. For a novice photographer, her capabilities or the D7100 are more than enough for the eyes. During this time, save up money, buy good lenses, gain experience and go to the full frame.
https://tehnobzor.ru/foto-video/nikon-d7200-obzor-fotokamery/ This review presents a picture of a comparison of additional displays Nikon D7200 and Nikon D7100. About reducing the information content of additional. display in the Nikon D7200 model, you can find some general information, which is read visually from the picture. But how informative the Nikon D7100 display is is not entirely clear. A question for specialists or owners of this model: "The area shown in this figure is not active, is it fully used in Nikon D7100?" or “The active zone shown in the figure is the maximum additional information. display for this model? ”.
Weird question. On the D7100, functions corresponding to all inactive icons are present, why not show them? Of course, they all work and are displayed. The display of the D7200 is also actually clogged with icons tightly, but it is simply not shown in the figure. Well, of course, 7200 sawed a lot of useful icons
Sergey, thanks for the answer.
Good evening!
I am very pleased with your site, because I’m constantly looking for and wrapping all the important information on my mustache. Thank you so much for your diligence.
At the moment I have a nikon d3100 and an af-s 50mm 1,8g lens. But, I understand that the technological capabilities of the device are not enough for me. I’m thinking about buying a new one in the future. But before me is a dilemma. Stop at 7100, and continue to use your fifty dollars with pleasure, or switch to ff, which of course you will also need to buy lenses and this will fly into a pretty penny.
Since I do not engage in professional photography, this is more of a hobby, which will probably be profitable sometime, then probably buying a d7100 will be a more reasonable solution. Yes, and with a screwdriver, you can save on future lenses.
What would you advise?
I thank you in advance for your reply.
A fifty dollars will work on a full frame, but you can take any budget lens as a universal, like old people, such as 28-105 or 28-200, they can be found for $ 100, or some kind of simple 50- 28 / 70-3.5. If you take the d4.5 / d610 + 600 / 50g + some kind of station wagon, in many ways it will be better than the d1.8.
Thank you very much.
“And with a screwdriver it will be possible to save money on future lenses” (c)
Do I understand the savings?
In the sense that it is more profitable to overpay for a carcass of 300 dollars, then to save 10-15 dollars on a lens without a motor?
The difference between lenses with a motor and without a motor, if you look at the old screwdriver lenses, can reach not more than $ 10-15, but more. In addition, lenses without a motor are more reliable than motor lenses and can work in more extreme temperature conditions.
Hello Arkady! I would like to know your opinion about the Nikon D300s and Nikon D7100. I wonder if there is a difference in the quality of pictures taken in the same conditions. I have a dilemma: I already had a D7100, I sold it in connection with the transition to a full frame. Now I turn to the crop. I really like the quality of images on the D7100, but not very constructive. I want to buy D300s on Avito. Tell me, the quality on the D300s is different from the D7100. Thank you in advance for your reply.
Sincerely, Vladimir.
Good day. Yes, it’s different, the d7100 is significantly better.
Many thanks! I thought so.
Tell me, why go from FF to crop?
Good day to all.
Over the years 6 used d3000. And now it seems to me that it's time to grow.
The D7100 attracted a little more features and a separate screwdriver, because you can buy old good lenses at a lower price.
Could you tell me if it is worth it? Or maybe take something else.
I plan to give 30k to the carcass, but this is used.
I am just a student and there is no opportunity to buy expensive equipment, but there is a desire to grow up a little.
If you don't have enough money, you can 7000, or 7100-7200 standing cameras
30k is it in what currency? For if hryvnia, then take D7500, for 23k you can take a new one. And so - 7200 is better than 7100, strive for it.
D7500 is worse than D7100-D7200
The D7200 is generally the leader in all respects today (see the statistics on the DRL) - ahead of even most full-frame ones.
“The D7100 attracted a little more opportunities and a separate screwdriver, since you can buy old good lenses at a lower price.” (C)
Is this a basic fact that outweighs the benefit of the D7100-D7200?
I understand correctly your incentive for wanting D7100 - To overpay $ 300 for a carcass now to be able to save a couple of times later for $ 10-15 on lenses without a motor?
Hello.
So I bought this camera with my hands in excellent condition.
But there is a suspicion that the seller deceived me a little, saying that everything is just perfect.
In general, ABW didn’t work for me at all, it turns yellow and orange in a terrible way. It seems like nothing on the street, but I really don't like the room with a flash on the ceiling, especially people.
I will show examples with Sigma 17-50 f2.8 lens with D7100 and D90 (normal WB)
All settings are the same and default.
And the multi selector on the D7100 then scrolls through the menu and enlarged photos in viewing without lifting a finger, then no, only by pressing.
So did I get a bad copy, or is it the way it should be?
Thank you.
try spinning the twist front and back, so you can also flip frames / switch between recognized faces in the photo
Is the flash Chinese or native? I have SB-800, everything is fine. I didn’t like Yongnuo
by the way…. known glitch that when Sigma 17-50 is installed, it is on d7100 that something is wrong with looking at the photo, it freezes
Damn, I didn’t.
I sold it. Now I regret it. The condition was just ... the store is worse)))
Thank you.
Well, the d90, though old, but in terms of colors and lights creates a more correct picture, although sometimes there is not enough contrast.
Compared d90 and d5200.
Approximately the same errors as in your examples.
On the same settings of the camera and flash (all in the manual), I compared the photos and saw the same result as you had on the d7100. I think in this case, it’s not a Sigma lens, because for an example on both cameras I used Nikon 17-55 2,8.
As a result, photos from d90 seem unsaturated in my opinion, and at 5200 they seem to be oversaturated. The sharpness of a ringing 24 megapixels in comparison with 12 does not give either.
Somehow, I did not see the middle ground. It goes without saying that global post-processing will fix everything and sharpness incl.
But the essence of the experiment was to get an initially more correct picture. It seemed to me the most correct on d610 and 17-55 2.8
At the output, d90 is low-contrast, does not yellow at all, d5200 is very very warm (yellow), the 610th yellows but much less (it is close to the golden mean).
By the way, the Nikon SB600 or 700 flash was not exactly remember (I think no difference) sent to the ceiling (white matte).
It is unfortunate that I do not have the opportunity to compare the d7100 or 7200. It would be more informative, and I myself would have known to leave 17-55 or dive headlong into the full frame.
Maybe someone has such a bunch, I would be glad to see examples.
By the way, I’ll add, for general information, that the TTL mode on the SB600 in the d90 and d5200 works differently, and it is noticeably naked, the d90 is very correct and light card, there is not enough light for 5200. All on the same settings. Why is the 5200th processor so disordered (perhaps the algorithm is built so that the number of apertures according to ISO is higher), and in order to get the same light, you need to set the flash in manual mode.
I also noticed from the flash (SB-910) that everything was always and without any problems on the D90, even with the darkening 18-105, and on the D7200 there were constantly oversights in the TTL and even with the Sigma 17-50 f2.8.
So what to do, sell an almost new device (3500 frames) and use the D90? It seems to me something completely toy after the D7200. How much I do not force myself to come to terms with yellow yellowness, I just can’t do it, it’s impossible to straighten my eyes and infuriate me.
Rather, change the matrix metering to another. For many cameras, matrix metering gives an oversight, saves light and works well only in conjunction with ADL.
“And the multi selector on the D7100 either scrolls through the menu and enlarged photos in the view without lifting your finger, then no, only by pressing.” (C)
Also on the D7100 was exactly the same.
Then after it disappeared (it became possible to scroll normally in the photo) - I suspect, after turning on LiveView (there I zoomed and returned to the list of photos and for some reason it became normal to scroll)
That is, it has passed
On the issue of Auto White Balance - check if Auto2 is worth it (with warmed shades)
Change to Auto1 (Normal) - may be fixed
in the picture with the D7100 the focus is lost, the picture with the D90 is sharper, even if you resize it to the size of the picture with the D7100, then it exceeds it. Or maybe the sigma lens could not resolve the matrix from the D7100?
Arkady, good afternoon ... I had a problem on the D7100 (the camera is 3 years old and I think it was from the moment of purchase, since I just tried it now), the camera does not control the external flash Sb910 remotely ... And I reset and updated the firmware and checked all the settings ... And at the same time, my second camera D7000 of the same Sb910 operates normally ... As a result of experiments, I found out that in the D7100 camera the built-in flash in CMD mode at any settings for the built-in flash (TTL, manual or dash) always works the same - as in manual mode it blinks on 1/128 power and does not give out control impulses ... I live not close to the Moscow service center and wrote to them about this problem, the answers I received were such that it felt like they had heard about the CLS system for the first time ... I understand that this is most likely , a software problem, but I updated the firmware to the latest one, did resets both cameras and flashes and the result remained the same ... Maybe this is still something I don't understand, not a malfunction ...? What do you think about this ...? Or maybe some of the site users have come across this ...? Please tell me ...
I have not encountered, it is difficult to accurately tell what exactly the problem
So I haven't found information about this anywhere on the Internet ...
the same nonsense was on d800, moreover, sometimes he controlled the flashes on the CLS, and sometimes not, at first he sinned on the flashes, and then he noticed that if there was no control, then there was no mark in the info in the photo that the flash had fired in the CLS. And also the built-in flash sometimes overexposed the frame. At the same time, C5pro managed these same flashes easily, always and in 100% of cases. I could not even solve the problem with the service software - I made a complete reset of the camera, after the reset, even all languages appeared, except for English and Japanese, which were originally, but the problem with the CLS and photo overexposure with the built-in flash did not go away. I sold flashes and bought others - with a built-in radio channel and a radio synchronizer for them. Well, I never used the built-in one, I drew attention to the problems with overexposure by chance, when I was dealing with the problems of the CLS. The radio channel is many times more convenient, especially if the receiver is built into the flash. Nikon hung some glitches in the CLS.
Yes ... And it's interesting that the support service doesn't seem to know about these glitches ...
Yes, and in addition to my previous note about the problem with the remote control of an external flash with a D7100 camera ... The built-in flash often overexposes the frame in any mode (PASM) ... The lenses are my own ... And at the same time, my second D7000 camera never overexposes on my relatives lenses, neither on Tamron, nor on Sigma ... I'm already thinking - why I bought it ... The further into the forest - the worse Nikon makes cameras ...
Hello, tell me please, I recently took the d7100, I read a bunch of everything, but I still could not figure out the problem, but here's the thing:
When focusing, there is no sound, I turn it on in the settings on the screen there is an icon, the mode is Af-S, Cl, Ch, but alas, it doesn’t appear, there may be a malfunction, although there is a squeak when setting the sound itself, but when photographing there isn’t, please help sort out!
Check the F4 menu option, there should not be “AF lock” for autofocus to work from the shutter button ... And second - check if you have disabled autofocus either on the camera or on the lens ...
Unfortunately:(
Did not help…? Something Nikon messed up in the D7100 specifically ... My CMD mode does not work and RPT does not work - multiple flash ... By the way, the CMD mode works on my D7000, but RPT does not work either ... I wrote to them in support, they rested like rams, in service, in service ... And I do not live in Moscow - not a dipped beam ... If this is the case, then there are jambs in the firmware ... And what, no one knows about this ...? I don’t believe it ... And also the repair is paid, since the warranty has already ended ... And why should I pay for their jambs ...? I found a way out differently - in the room you can remotely ignite the flash in SU-4 mode in manual mode ... Well, if you really need TTL, you will have to buy a radio synchronizer, for example, Yongnuo yn-622n ... Well, if you use the flash on a bracket on the side of the camera, then it's better just a lace, because especially on the street, this CLS will probably mow anyway ...
Fuh, thanks, cured!
People, do not take it by the hand., Help who can, with the profile settings, or what is the task there, due to the fact that when I take portraits, the photos are not sharp, flat, the dynamic range is not significantly visible, more soapy, with shutter speed everything is in order, not lower than 1/60, I control the aperture and ISO, please tell me about the settings, how many I have not read, reviewed, but ...
And what was ...?
In autofocus settings
Nikon D7100 camera. I dumped the photos on my computer and found that some of them are not in the order of numbering (for example:… 83,… 84,… 86,… 85), and 16 frames in a row were not recorded on the card at all?
Tell me what the failure is and how it can be fixed.
See how file sorting is enabled in the program in which you are viewing these photos ...
Hello. Please tell me who has experience using non-native batteries. Which company is better to choose an extra battery?
I bought on ebee for $ 30 the type of original Akum, with a gallogram sticker, etc., as a result of Chinese garbage, it holds 2 times less than the used original.
over the past 12 years, I have only used non-native Chinese, only from normal manufacturers. They work better than relatives and last longer, you need to look at the container. On my Nikon D3s I also bought a new Chinese one and works like a clock. Almost all batteries in the world are manufactured in China (although factories have survived in Japan and Korea!), And in this case, the Chinese have reached almost 100% of the level. But you don't need to take the batteries collected by the boys in the vicinity of Shenzhen ...
My old Nikon 7100 seems to have started to take, mileage 100k, 18-140, visited everywhere. Two problems drew up:
1. often mistaken in focus - the main aperture is 5.6, 2 frames out of 10 stops will not be sharp.
2. focusing slows down, that is, here's the moment, I press the shutter button and…. we think ... the frame is gone, bang is removed, sometimes hangs for 2-3 seconds. This is not always there, but often. Pisses me off to horror, I threw off the default settings, I turned off all the buns, I tried it with different focus modes, the card was 32 GB. 95 mb. I tried it on 16, it did not help, the same problems, and that's it. Can I reflash it or your options :)
Try another lens.
Try another flash drive.
Update firmware to a more recent one.
If all of the above does not help, bring it to the service.
surprisingly, my old D5100 shot 480000 only in my hands, and still they are being robbed by everyone who is not lazy. Have you tried rebooting the camera, or updating the firmware? Maybe something went wrong in the program, and not in the hardware?
Hello Arkady! Thank you for your work and a wonderful site that I have been visiting for several years :) I want to ask for advice? I am the owner of the Nikon D90 camera, I previously shot on the D3000, now I have a desire to change the camera to either the D7100 or the old D700, I really want the FF, but I doubt the choice, since the 700 has already become old. From the lenses there is auto focus 50mm F1.8, Chinese 100 mm F2.0 and sigma 17-70 mm. What do you recommend in this choice?
In many ways, the old d700 will be better than the d7100, but the choice is always difficult. It’s better to save money and take d600 / 610 / d3 / d3s
Thanks for the answer! The choice is difficult when you want a full frame, but not enough money :) there are also not enough focus points, frame resolution and sharpness. Most likely I will follow your advice and switch to the D610, the main thing is not to break prematurely and not to buy the D7100 :)
But where is the review on the d7200 ???
it would be very interesting to read ...
I now have d90, it seems like I grew up with her. I want something better, but not a super-pro either ... and money plays an important role.
I am the owner of d7200. In my subjective opinion, this review is practically about him. Besides, of course, the d7200 has a really wide DD. This is especially felt when processing contrasting scenes in Lightroom. It would seem that the sky is knocked out, “everything is gone, the client leaves, the plaster is removed” (C). But no. A slider to the left - and a miracle: texture and even color appears. I personally do not need buns with wireless communication, gps would be more interesting. Before that there was d5100. (before him there were still budget Nikon) and now there are still. I don't see much difference in the picture jpg, intra-camera, made with the same settings, from one point, with one lens, at first sight. A very noticeable plus in the d7200 is focusing without autofocus illumination in “bad” conditions.
I don't see any sense in a crop on a crop. Burst shooting speed is not important to me, and it is extremely inconvenient to compose video on “crop in crop” without darkening the frame.
It is inconvenient for me to decide the placement of programmable buttons for ISO. Even the d5100 was more convenient.
This is an amateur impression.
I will clarify the phrase "and it is extremely inconvenient to compose video on" crop in crop "without darkening the frame". Composing a frame on a crop without shading is extremely inconvenient. Especially going from viewfinder to live view for video shooting
Hello, tell me what to choose, nikon d7100 or d7000? I photograph a lot of nature and people. Now I generally photograph on the Canon 600d. There is no money for a full frame) and another question, is the absence of a low-pass filter a problem or not?
I also face such a choice. I know about all the pros and cons of both cameras. Interested in the opinions of those who owned these two cameras
The lack of an AA filter is not a problem. With this pixel density, the vast majority of the photo will not be moiré, and the photos themselves will be slightly better detailed.
I also read that there are problems with the white balance? I photograph mainly in RAW and processing in the lightroom, I think there shouldn’t be any problems with this?
Raw grabs data as is. White balance is the result of manipulating RAW data based on how correctly the color temperature of the light was determined by the camera. So fix it yourself as needed.