In this part of the photo tricks, I want to share my thoughts on the convenience of some functions of modern Nikon cameras.
Photo Tricks for Nikon. Part 15.
Advanced Nikon CZKs have a very convenient feature quick format memory card... This feature is very useful for me. I usually dump photos to my computer via a card reader, then I make a backup, insert the card into the camera and format it. To format, just hold down two buttons marked on the camera body with red marks for a few seconds. The display should show the message 'Format'. Before shooting, I always know that my cards are formatted and ready for battle. Since I have to dump material to the computer every day, I format the cards every day and I really like this two-button quick method.
Combination for pressing and holding. The photo shows the camera Nikon D90.
Also, almost all Nikon cameras have the ability quick reset. When resetting the camera, the camera resets almost all the settings, putting the camera in a state with factory default settings. Some settings may not be resete.g. custom shooting mode settings. To perform a quick two-button reset, you need to find on the camera two buttons marked green dot and hold them at the same time for a few seconds. Sometimes this function is very useful, for example, when you accidentally add something to the menu, and the camera refuses to shoot, or does it in an incomprehensible way. This is usually useful in emergency situations where you need to quickly get the camera to 'wake up'.
Two-button quick reset. The photo shows the Nikon D700 camera
I also want to talk about one nuance when working with a flashlight. When using the flash in poor lighting conditions, the exposure meter in the optical viewfinders, or the camera’s display will be show underexposure of a picture (they say this scale is driven to the left). This is normal, as the exposure meter displays deviation from normal exposure for current settings excerpts, aperture, ISO, but with the flash turned off. Roughly speaking, by the deviation of the scale exposure you can find out what share in the total exposure the flash will take over (what compensation exposure will give a flash).
In Nikon cameras last generationSuch as Nikon D4, D800,D800E, D600, D7100, D3100, D7000, D5200, D5100, D3200 organized the possibility of shooting in Live View without lowering the mirror. On these cameras, only shutter fires in live view. On other cameras that have Live View, such as Nikon D3, D3s, D3x, D700, D300, D300s, D90, D5000, make sure the camera lowers the mirror before taking a picture. This is due to the specific mechanism structurethat controls the mirror, aperture and the specifics of the shutter. In new cameras, when shooting in Live View mode, the noise level decreases, the life of the mirror mechanism increases, this method of operation is very pleasant for shooting in HDR, when the camera needs to shoot several pictures very quickly in a row.
These are the subtleties of Nikon cameras. Help to the project. Arkady Shapoval.
Thank you so much - as always, everything is concise and clear
Hello, good day) Which camera is better canon 650d kit 18-55 mm or is it better to buy canon 60d kit 18-55mm? For a novice photographer, I used to shoot on nikon coolpix p510. Now I decided to purchase a more functional camera. I like to shoot nature, portraits and close-ups. Thank you in advance)))
Canon 60D will be shortened (::
http://snapsort.com/cameras/Canon/EOS_60D/specs
http://snapsort.com/cameras/Canon-EOS-650D-specs
Now there is a change in the lineup for Nikon. Take a closer look at the discontinued and sold at a discount of 3100 and 5100. Features are similar to canon and the price is interesting.
Thank you, reminded of a convenient reset function. It can be easier to change a couple of factory settings than bring your experimental designs back to their original state.
Thanks!! Useful, useful as a "Nikonist"
When shooting in live view, the d3100 does not lower the mirror before taking a picture.
Thanks for the HDR with LiveView. Really helpful.
Thanks for the quick reset, it helped).
About resetting was useful! Did not know(((
Speaking of settings. Who can tell what the exposure is changing in the manual: I set the exposure pair, but after the descent, the exposure itself jumps absolutely unpredictably, it can calmly jump from 1/320 to 1/40.
I work in studio conditions with monoblocks, set fire to micropro radio synchronizer, carcass - D80.
Perhaps you had exposure bracketing turned on and every two out of three frames had exposure compensation set in the bracketing settings.
I do not use bracketing so I did not pay attention to it.
You are absolutely right. Thank you
I have a standard set for a beginner (Nikon 5100 18-55), I have never managed to take a photo so that it is crystal clear, sharp, I don’t know what else to call, like this:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/raodk45/8639141251/in/explore-2013-04-11/
There are 2 options: 1. With such a lens, such photos will not work. 2. The photographer does not know how to take pictures) I bow to the 2nd option. The sharpness is set to maximum on the camera, I focus automatically and manually. But even automatically, after the focus points in the lens blink red, i.e. the camera focused, I take a photo, then I download and still there is no such sharpness. I took photos of children on the street, it was a very sunny day, i.e. a lot of light, all the same, when viewing photos of sharpness 100 percent, as in the example, there is no photo (((What to change? What to work on? I will be grateful if you help with advice.
Mira, first of all, check your camera and lens for back- or front-focus, often DSLRs require adjustment (adjustment) of afto-focus (you can check very easily by the example - https://nikoneurope-ru.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/52161/related/1). The service will be able to configure (if necessary) the D5100 camera, and starting with the D7000 model and older, you can adjust the focus yourself through the menu in the camera. Also read articles about using a tripod, remote control, flash in rear-curtain sync mode. Be sure to pay attention to the distribution of highlights and shadows when shooting - it also affects sharpness. Try using a polarizing filter. And do not set maximum sharpness in the camera settings (most likely “maximum” is already a software sharpening improvement) - set it to one or two stops less.
The D5100 is perfectly configurable without service, it has an open service menu there and everything is built simply accessible ...
Good afternoon! Stas (or Arkady, maybe you are also in the know) I'm interested in the mentioned service menu. Something I have not seen anywhere how to get into it on D5100 ... (((Tell me?
There is no service menu there, the entire menu is the service with the camera. Mira advised to adjust the autofocus in the service center, Stas a little misunderstood.
Not Mira, but Denis.
Understood thanks!
Mira, show the original photo of what you get, be sure to save the current exif.
PS in secret - very often crystal clarity and sharpness are added to post processing. And the smaller the image size, the sharper and more crystalline it is;).
Thank you very much for the advice, look, read and I will try further. Link to one of the photos:
http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/4490/dsc0114lvh.jpg
I looked at the photo and didn’t understand what the camera was on, some kind of mess. So you're right, there is a problem).
Perhaps your lens at its long end of 55 mm and with a minimum aperture value of 5,6 cannot produce a normal picture, the so-called soap.
Try to squeeze the aperture. This can be done in A mode on the camera. Set the value to 6,3 or 7,1, maybe 8,0 or 9. But it’s also not worth closing too much otherwise you will get the opposite effect, the picture will deteriorate due to diffraction, and there will be very little light entering the sensor at these values.
Second option: reduce shutter speed. You have 1/50 on this picture. For a focal length of 55 mm this may not be enough for such a plot, even with a stabilizer. Here the breeze may affect a little or you are uncomfortable standing and all sorts of things. Switch to S mode on the camera and set the shutter speed to 1/80 or 1/100 (and for the sake of experiment, 1/250), though the ISO value will increase, but the D5100 will do it perfectly.
“There is a wonderful golden rule. "You need to shoot with handheld shutter speeds, the numerical value of which should be greater than the effective focal length of the lens."
You have a focal length of 55 mm, which means you need to set the shutter speed shorter: 1/60 and even shorter. For the D5100, this rule changes slightly, the shutter speed is one and a half times shorter than the focal length. (55 * 1,5 = 82, round off and get an extract no shorter than 1/80).
You can also combine both methods: switch to M mode, set the shutter speed + aperture, and the camera will adjust the exposure for you due to auto iso.
Read this article carefully:
https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/01/how-to-make-photo-by-hand/
https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/02/what-is-shutter-speed/
Thank you very much for the details, the flowers are still in place, so I will experiment, then to compare the result with the first photo, now I will know what to work on from your comments. I read the site if possible, very useful, thanks to the author!
Mira, my kit 18-105 gives maximum sharpness at F8,0-F11,0. On the open, it significantly loses in sharpness. Well, it is better to set the exposure with a margin, in your case - 1 / 100s and shorter. And pay attention to the process of pressing the shutter button itself. It should be smooth, without a jerk, from which the camera will twitch, which affects the sharpness.
Good day, with a little buzdaska, with a little turned off, exponometer, wait for me to show you underexposed, how can I fight it? I will be sluggish to you.
Arkady, have you ever had such a case when, after formatting a card, you discovered that you forgot to copy the footage?
For myself, I decided the problem of a clean memory card and, at the same time, duplicates / lost photos in a different way - by copying photos from a memory card I “transfer” them, that is, I immediately delete them from the card and write them to disk. This way I always know what I have transferred to disk and what has not. Interesting opinion of experienced, than such approach is bad?
I don’t cut out due to the fact that cutting may fail (the lights will be turned off) and there will be no photos on the memory card or on the hard drive. I always make a backup on a spare hard drive, usually a session takes several minutes, and I always know for sure what I copied and what I did not copy.
Guys tell me how to switch to black and white on Nikon5100
Tell me, because of what may reset all the settings in manual mode, after each shot taken?
it's about the Nikon D90 camera
Hello! Please tell me, Nikon D3200, in “M” mode, after adjusting the shutter speed, aperture, ISO and other parameters, after turning on the liveview mode, all settings get lost: shutter speed 1/30, aperture 5, ISO 200. How can you fix this situation?
Thanks in advance!
Another victim of regime M)
And rightly so - we are not looking for easy ways - even if it's bad, even if it's hard - even if it's worse - but we'll stubbornly put only mode M anyway)))
Amuse such herd representatives)
Anatoly, you did not understand and immediately the victim. It may be a manual lens for video. Have you thought about it? The same problem. Less than 1/30 and the iso 200 does not drop
Hello! Please tell me, there was such a problem with the Nikon d90 when shooting with the built-in flash in TTL mode, there was frequent re-light before this was not what could it be?
I express my deep gratitude, Arkady, for the information about a quick reset of the settings! On Nikon D90 autofocus did not work with one of the lenses. Repeated checking and changing the settings did not help ... and after the reset, everything worked!
Please tell me how you can reset all settings to Nikon 3200, that is, custom ones (there are no red buttons on it)
Please tell me how you can reset all the settings on the Nikon 3100
Please tell me what is the trouble? In live view, Nikon D5100 camera clicks when shooting, as if taking 2 pictures
So it should be, this is the standard mirror and shutter cycle in Live View for d5100, it lowers the mirror again)
By the way, why does the D5100 really click 2 times (everything is in order)
And the D5200 device clicks only once (at the end of shooting and exiting back to Live View - !!!!)
In Live View returns normally ..
Is this a design feature? Or a bug of a separate device? (I read that the D5200 seems to have improved the Live View function, but it is not known exactly where and how this improvement was)
I'm just used to the fact that Nikon D5200 clicks twice when exiting filming back to Live View - and therefore it is alarming that D5200 clicks once and somehow dullly (unpleasant sound) exiting filming back to Live View