For the opportunity review of the lens Jupiter-21M 4/200 Many thanks to Vadim Shkurat, who sent me a lens from another area for review.
Overview of Jupiter-21M 4/200
Jupiter-21M 4/200 and Jupiter-21A 4/200 - outwardly two different lenses, their bodies are very different. The only thing that remains the same with lenses is optical circuit, and the color of the DOF indicators. Jupiter-21M 4/200 is a newer modification that was produced at the Vologda plant, version Jupiter-21A 4/200 was produced at the Krasnogorsk plant. There are versions with the spelling of the name in Latin: Jupiter-21M, Jupiter-21A. About Jupiter-21A and Jupiter-21M is well described on the website of Sergei Elizarov here.
View of the depth of field scale on Jupiter-21M F4 200mm and the diaphragm mode switch
Jupiter-21M 4/200 can be much more often seen in the hands of amateur photographers than the more rare Jupiter-21A... I used two versions and got the impression that the 'M' version is not that much inferior to the 'A' version. The 'M' in the name of the lens refers to the blinking diaphragm and M42 mounting thread, and the 'A' refers to the replaceable shank. Generally 'A' lenses are considered more successful modifications than others.
Enlightenment of the front lens of the lens Jupiter-21M F4 200mm
The focusing ring of Jupiter-21M 4/200 is very smooth, rotates approximately 270 degrees, while the front lens does not rotate, and the lens trunk is noticeably lengthened. When focusing, the entire lens unit moves. The minimum focusing distance is 1.8m, versus 1.7m for the 'A' version. Sighting is pleasant and easy.
The weight of the Jupiter-21M 4/200 lens has increased to 980 g, compared to 740 g for the 'A' version. Jupiter-21M has a built-in retractable hood, the hood is metallic and short. The diameter of the lens hood is 67mm, and the diameter of the front filter is 58mm. The lens that is presented in this review is numbered 83018196.
Jupiter-21M F4 200mm when focusing on MDF with an extended hood
Jupiter-21M has an automatic blinking aperture. The lens has a special ring that can be used to switch to manual 'M' or automatic 'A' aperture control. The aperture ring itself is in the middle of the lens, you can only set fixed F-numbers from F / 4-F / 22. The 'A' version had a smooth aperture change and an additional ring for its preset. Also, the number of diaphragm blades was cut off for Jupiter-21M, now they have become 8 pieces, compared to 10 in the 'A' version. When the aperture is closed down to f / 8, the lens produces nuts with serrated in the out-of-focus area (the so-called circular saw, see for yourself). The 'A' version has smoother circles in the out-of-focus area on closed diaphragms.
Jupiter-21M F4 200mm when focusing on a digital camera
Sample Photos
Photos without processing.
How to use with modern cameras?
Lenses with mounting thread M42 (M42 X 1 / 45.5), such as the lens from this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both SLR and mirrorless), for this it is enough to choose the right adapter (adapter). You do not need to carry out any additional steps to modify the lens.
The cheapest adapters can be found at Aliexpress.com... There are adapters (adapters) with a chip that provide more convenience during shooting, usually chips are used to confirm focus and / or metering exposure, and form the correct EXIF. The chip does not affect the image quality in any way.
For some SLR cameras (for example, with the Nikon F-mount), you need to use adapters with a corrective lens, which allows you to focus correctly at all focusing distances. For any mirrorless cameras, such a lens is not needed, and the adapter is a simple decorated hollow metal tube with an appropriate mount.
For SLR cameras
- Canon: For cameras Canon EOS with bayonet mount EF / EF-S need an M42-Canon EOS adapter, such an adapter with a chip can be found herewithout chip here.
- NIKON: For cameras Nikon DX / FXas well as for cameras Fujifilm и Kodak with a Nikon F mount, you need an M42-Nikon F adapter, you can buy such an adapter without a lens and a chip here, with a lens without a chip herewith chip without lens here, with lens and chip here. Why a lens? Why chip?
- PENTAX: For Pentax cameras with K mount, you need an M42-Pentax K adapter, you can buy such an adapter here.
- SONY/MINOLTA: For cameras with a Sony / Minolta A mount, you need the M42-Sony A adapter, you can find such an adapter without a chip at this linkwith a chip at this link.
- OLYMPUS/PANASONIC/LEICA: For cameras with a 4/3 bayonet mount (not to be confused with Micro 4/3!) You need an M42-4 / 3 adapter, you can buy such an adapter here.
For mirrorless cameras
- SONY: For cameras with 'E'/'FE' mount series SonyNEX и Sony Alpha you need an adapter M42-Sony E (aka M42-Sony Nex), you can find it at this link. An autofocus adapter is also available for these cameras. Techart PRO Leica M - Sony E Autofocus Adapterwhich can be found at this link.
- OLYMPUS / PANASONIC / KODAK / XIAOMI: For cameras with a bayonet mount Micro 4/3 (Micro 4:3) you need an adapter M42-Micro 4/3, you can find it at this link.
- CANON M: For cameras with Canon EF-M mount need adapter M42-Canon M, it can be found at this link.
- CANON R and RF-S: For cameras with Canon RF mount need adapter M42-Canon R, it can be found at this link.
- Nikon 1: For cameras Nikon 1 Series need adapter M42-Nikon 1, you can find it at this link.
- Nikon Z: For cameras Nikon Z series (FX/DX) need an adapter M42-Nikon Z, it can be found at here to place a catering order..
- FUJIFILM X: For cameras with mount X need an M42-Fuji X adapter, you can find it at this link.
- FUJIFILM GFX: For medium format cameras G-mount need M42-Fuji GFX adapter, you can find it at this link.
- SAMSUNG: For cameras with NX mount, you need an M42-Samsung NX adapter, you can find it at this link. There are no adapters for the NX mini camera yet.
- PENTAX: For Q-mount cameras, you need an M42-Pentax Q adapter, you can find it at this link.
- SIGMA / PANASONIC / LEICA: For cameras with L mount you need an M42-Leica L adapter, you can find it at this link.
- LEICA: For cameras with a bayonet mount Leica M need adapter M42-L / M, you can find it at this link.
If you have any questions on compatibility and adapters - ask in the comments (comments do not require any registration at all).
They say that there is still a Jupiter-21 lens in a white frame under M39 (mirror), Jupiter-21M-2 and Jupiter-21A MS version, if anyone has data on these modifications, add them to the comments.
Crop (cropping) 1: 1 (720x479) image on the Jupiter-21M lens and camera Canon 350D. ISO 200, F / 5.6, 1 / 400c.
Catalog modern brand lenses 'Zenitar' и 'Helios' can look at this link.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment.
Conclusions:
Jupiter-21M 4/200 is an excellent lens, it gives a very nice drawing, good image quality, it is much easier to find than its brother Jupiter-21A.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
Yes, I tried the hood, there is no effect, if only the camera is upside down, the light disappears, as I understand it, from somewhere inside it glare in a horizontal position, only from which everything seems to be black inside))
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I found everything because of what the light, by trial and error and 5-7 times of lens analysis, found the reason and eliminated it, everything is much easier than expected, you need to unscrew one extra spare part
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Colleagues, good afternoon everyone! M. b. who knows - I took off the jump rope (to increase the contrast), collected everything and forgot it for a couple of days. and at 4 and at 5,6 and even at 8, the diaphragm is fully open, the closure begins only after 8 ... perhaps it has something to do with the return spring? mb who has already encountered ?? (I completely removed the jumping mechanism) ...
Thanks in advance for good advice!
p / s if it's not difficult for anyone, send me a photo of the assembly of the jump rope, otherwise I forgot to take a picture of it completely before disassembling it ...
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Yes, there you need to lengthen the switching hook M A inside the lens when the focus is on, it falls and the aperture opens
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Let’s throw you where I made myself mail or social networks
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Your experience is also interesting .. if anything, write here iii-ooo97@mail.ru
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Good day.
I also could not have thrown off my works on U21m.
Thanks in advance.
Casper22-80@mail.ru
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thanks, I already figured it out ... everything is fixed with a wire there is easy)
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In general, it’s not bad, but to run far. There is one in excellent condition in a coffer and a native box, converted to Nikon. Lies unnecessarily. Long for me. If anyone needs it, I will give it at a reasonable price. Ukraine.
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Kayfovy drawing on plastic gives, like all zones, but it is the "M" - the wildest picture yellows! In comparison with the A version, the contrast is significantly reduced (including micro-contrast) and is less sharp. But what can I say, these are essentially completely different objectives. 21A (if you shoot a video) is perfectly compatible with Tair 11A, I would say this is his older brother, only with a different name, the picture is one-to-one, the design and details of the body repeat each other.
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I got this glass today, I will use it with a lens. The look is monstrous, the weight is significant (twice as heavy as the d60 crumbs, at 3,5 - the f55 crumbs with its plastic bayonet), the combat run-in will be later. Thanks to Arkady for his efforts in the formation of the amateur photographers!
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Remade this under Nikon, a heavy bandura. Faded picture, crap full 37 and even better. Sprinkle from it and it will be better than that. Five pieces were in a different state. The use of it only if you hit someone, and even then, there are more convenient items. I don’t see the point at all, the price is adequate up to $ 20, more it’s just a robbery. It’s hard to sell it later, no one needs it
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Is it possible to insert the lens block from Jupiter 21t into the body of Jupiter 21m
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That is unlikely. The mechanics of the diaphragm drive are completely different.
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heverybodyy cialis
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I have no manufacturer factory badge
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A few shots for those who are interested in this lens
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U21M
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Distance 100 m
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Color correction in fs in all photos
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The only and important minus of the lens is that it does not hold backlight at all, the built-in lens hood is completely useless in this case. It is better to shoot using the U21M in the shade in the evening, otherwise the photos turn out to be practically non-contrast.
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You need to glue the glare plate, which covers the jumping mechanism with black velvet, and you will be happy. Plus buy a long Chinese hood at a size of 58 mm.
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Thank you!
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Hello! I bought the lens, I am very satisfied! I bought for “sony a7”, photos are sharp at full aperture, I was actually surprised. The price is a penny, but the glass is decent, I don't even touch the white balance in the editor.
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I tried during shooting in the back, in addition to the hood, to put my palm with a visor :) - it helps a lot! (although holding a phot with a lens with one hand is like swinging a dumbbell).
Love the lens design! Unless Kaleinaru 3B inferior, but that's another story.
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I got this lens of 78 years, the Krasnogorsk factory. It looks like some kind of transitional model. There is a quality mark of the USSR on the lens. The diaphragm does not rotate smoothly, but is placed along the entire course of rotation in intermediate positions, i.e. in average values between the numbers of the aperture written on the lens. Bought somewhere for 23 American rubles. The photos are good. But heavy. I need to find a mount for the video (tripod lens). Can someone tell me what? I looked at Ali, but I did not find the exact ones. The picture is not very bad for a focal of 300 on my crop.
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The photo is not sticky
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A good lens, but the designers did not provide a platform for attaching it to a tripod. I have to make a homemade clamp
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Please tell me which screwdriver is needed to disassemble this lens? There, like hexagons, how much is it?
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Everything there is on micro-screws, well, almost.
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