This article will be useful for Nikon Digital SLR owners. Automatic ISO sensitivity control is a very interesting thing, I’ll even say that this is one of the key things in modern Nikon digital SLR cameras. If you understand how automatic ISO sensitivity control works, you can simplify your work very much with a camera and pay more attention to other key points when photographing. It is very strange, but I have never seen a detailed explanation of how automatic ISO sensitivity control works.
How Automatic ISO Sensitivity Control Works on Nikon Cameras
In order not to write the phrase 'Automatic ISO sensitivity control' for a long time, I use a shorter and more understandable expression Auto ISO (in Russian it reads as 'auto iso'). This function can be found in the camera menu under the 'ISO Sensitivity Options' setting. Each Nikon camera hides Auto ISO differently.
The essence of Auto ISO is very simple. The camera itself selects the desired ISO sensitivity for the correct exposure.
In the 'Auto ISO' setting menu, set maximum ISO и maximum excerpt... The 'Auto ISO' function can be either enabled or disabled. Please note that on the CZK, automatic ISO control on cameras occurs only in modes P, A, S, M. In the future, I will write about the work of Auto ISO in these modes.
The maximum ISO value makes it clear to the camera that you cannot set the ISO above this value. Often the maximum ISO value is called the threshold, which can not step over the camera automation. For example, if you set the maximum value to ISO 3200 (the ISO threshold is 3200 units), then when working with the Auto ISO function, the camera will not exceed this threshold. Under no circumstances will automation be able to use an ISO above 3200. Maximum ISO Is a very important parameter for setting the Auto ISO function, as it allows you to control the noise level. Photographs suffer from digital noise at high ISOs. For each camera, I recommend calculating a certain ISO value at which you can get a good image result, after which this value should be set for the Auto ISO function.
If, with the Auto ISO function turned on, it is forced to set the ISO value higher than the maximum set for the Auto ISO function, the camera will only work at the forced ISO value. For example, when I shoot in Auto ISO mode, and I really miss the maximum ISO value, I force the value to be greater than the desired value and the camera uses only this one forced ISO value. Important: this principle does not work on all cameras.
You can set and Minimum ISO. This is done not entirely obvious and not for all cameras. When you manually set some ISO value on the camera, it immediately becomes the minimum automatic value. For example, if the camera had manual ISO control, and the ISO value was equal to 800 units, then when Auto ISO was turned on with a maximum ISO value of 3200, the camera will only work at values from 800 to 3200 units. It is very convenient to use in low-light conditions, with telephoto lenses, etc.
Another key point in setting automatic ISO is setting maximum excerpts. Maximum excerpt important in A (aperture priority) and P (program) modes. The Maximum Shutter option allows you to tell the camera the shutter speed to which the ISO value should adjust. It's quite difficult to figure it out without an example.
Auto ISO in aperture priority mode (Mode A)
In 'A' mode, the aperture value (F-number) is set, to which the excerpt and ISO. In Auto ISO mode, the camera tries not to use a shutter speed slower than the Auto ISO function specified in the settings, and the ISO itself will be set only in the selected range (from minimum to maximum).
Example. Let's set Auto ISO like this: the minimum ISO will be 800, the maximum ISO will be 6400, and the maximum excerpt 1/100 second, set the aperture to F / 5.6. The camera algorithm will be something like this:
- F / 5.6 calculated excerpt at a minimum value of ISO 800.
- If calculated excerpt at ISO 800 longer than 1/100 of a second, the camera raises ISO by a minimum step.
- At the new increased ISO again the shutter speed is calculated, if it is 1 / 100s, then the camera was able to choose the optimal ISO. For example, the camera picked up ISO 2500. Then the shooting will be carried out at a value of ISO 2500, F / 5.6, 1 / 100c.
- If the camera went over all ISO values from 800 to 6400 and the calculated shutter speed was constantly longer than 1 / 100s, then shooting will be performed at ISO 6400, F / 5.6 and the calculated shutter speed with these parameters. In this case, the ban on the minimum shutter speed will be canceled and the camera will set the shutter speed longer than 1 / 100s, for example 1 / 40s. In this case, the picture will be taken at ISO 6400, F / 5.6, 1 / 40c. A 99% camera can select the desired shutter speed, as the shutter speed range is very large. This allows you to almost always get a correctly exposed frame.
- If the calculated shutter speed at ISO 800 is shorter than 1/100 second, for example 1/250 second, then the camera does not raise ISO, and shooting will be performed with the settings F / 5.6, ISO 800, 1/250 second.
In fact, the camera does not go through the ISO value, but calculates everything in its own way, but the effect is exactly the same as I described. In words, this turned out to be a very long algorithm of work, but in practice it is easier to understand. It is very convenient to use the aperture priority mode with the Auto ISO function, it is enough to try several times.
Auto ISO running in program mode (P mode)
In P mode, the camera itself determines the optimal aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. The algorithm of Auto ISO in P mode is quite difficult to write. The meaning of it in a few words is this: the camera tries to lower the ISO so as to 'fit' into the minimum shutter speed and aperture the lens. If the maximum aperture of the lens is not enough, the camera raises the ISO. If the maximum aperture and maximum ISO are not enough, the camera lowers the shutter speed below the set. If on the contrary, there is a lot of light, then the camera can set any shutter speed and aperture value with a minimum ISO value. Auto ISO in P mode is intuitive after a few test shots.
Auto ISO in shutter-priority mode (S mode)
In S (shutter priority) mode, the photographer sets the shutter speed, and the camera determines the optimum aperture and ISO. Let us have the same initial data: the minimum ISO value will be 800, the maximum ISO will be 6400, and the maximum aperture The lens will be f / 2.8. We set the shutter speed to 1/320 second and shoot in low light conditions. The camera algorithm will be something like this:
- When the shutter speed is set to 1/320 second, ISO 800 is set and the desired aperture value is calculated.
- If the desired aperture value is less than F / 2.8, for example F / 7.1, then the picture will be taken at ISO 800, 1/320 s, F / 7.1
- If the desired aperture value is required more than F / 2.8, then the camera raises the ISO. Let the camera choose the value of ISO 4000, while the picture will be taken at ISO 4000, 1/320 s, F2.8. As soon as the camera starts raising ISO, the aperture value will always be maximum.
- If the camera was unable to find the right ISO, then the image will be taken at ISO 6400, 1/320 s, F2.8 and the image will not be correctly exposed.
Auto ISO in manual mode (M mode)
In M mode (manual camera control mode), the photographer himself determines the shutter speed and aperture value, and the camera only calculates the optimal ISO value. The algorithm here is very simple. For example, we set F / 16.0, 1/1000 s, the camera will simply try to pick up the ISO value from the given range at which we can get the correct exposure. The mode is very, very convenient in low light. When there is a lot of light, Auto ISO mode is useless when operating in M mode.
Important: modern Nikon cameras have the ability to automatically determine the maximum shutter speed for each individual lens. To do this, specify the value 'Auto' in the minimum exposure settings field. Only some Nikon CLCs have this feature: D3200, D800, D5200, D7100 etc.
How does the camera select the maximum shutter speed for setting Auto ISO? Very simple, the camera adjusts the maximum shutter speed to the focal length of the lens. For example, take a camera Nikon D3200 with lens Nikon 50 mm f / 1.4G AF-S Nikkor. For a focal length of 50mm, the camera will select an automatic maximum shutter speed equal to 1/80 second.
Shutter speed in '1 / x second' is roughly calculated as: x = mm * 1.5, where mm is a numerical value for the focal length of the lens. In our case, x = mm * 1.5 = 50 * 1.5 = 75, which is approximately 1/80 of a second. The camera cannot set the shutter speed to 1/75 second, as this is not the standard shutter speed.
If your camera does not have automatic maximum shutter speed when setting the Auto ISO function, then ask her yourself easy peasy. You need to take an approximate shutter speed of 1 / x, where x is numerically equal to the focal length times a certain factor. For example, I do this if I have a lens Nikon 28-200 mm f / 3.5-5.6D AF Nikkor and a camera like FX, then I take a larger number, which is responsible for the focal length of the lens - 200, and I look for a shutter speed equal to 1/200 second in the setting. If I have a DX camera, then I take 200 * 1,5 (mm * coefficient) and get 1/300 second, you won’t find 1/300 second in the camera menu, so I set 1/320 second.
Important: when working with lenses with a stabilizer, the coefficient value must be selected based on the situation. The same goes for tripods.
Maximum shutter speed is very important when a person photographs while holding the camera in his hands. I have a separate article about this, you can find it here.
Auto ISO has some interesting features.
- Auto ISO can accept any intermediate ISO sensitivity values with a very small step from a given interval. This will help to squeeze the maximum quality out of the existing lighting level in photos. For example, when Auto ISO is running, the camera can independently set the values of ISO 110, ISO 360, ISO 1400, etc. These ISO values are not available with manual ISO sensitivity settings. Some amateur cameras have an ISO sensitivity step of 1 step. This means that you can manually set only ISO 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200 and the like, that is, the ISO sensitivity values in such cameras differ by half, and you can not set something in between. These cameras include Nikon D40. On more advanced Nikon cameras such as Nikon D90, D7000 etc. You can set the ISO sensitivity step equal to 1 \ 2 and 1 \ 3 steps, this allows you to use the manual ISO setting with intermediate values. For instance, Nikon D80 can afford to set the following range of ISO values: 100, 125, 160, 200, 250, 320, 400, 500, 640, 800, 1000, 1250, 1600, 2000 (hi0.3), 2500 (hi0.7), 3200 (hi1). For example, when in poor lighting conditions ISO 1250 is too low for the shutter speed and aperture required by the photographer, and ISO 1600 is already unacceptable for obtaining low-noise photography - then the automatic system can help the photographer and set a compromise average value of ISO 1400 for the exposure. photo, I do not resort to an ISO value higher than necessary.
- Automatic ISO is just very convenient in that the camera can select the very lowest ISO on which you can get a photo.
Every single Nikon camera has a lot of its subtleties when working with Auto ISO. Here are the ones I've come across:
- Камеры Nikon D1x, Nikon D1h, Nikon D1 does not support the auto ISO function.
- Nikon D100 supports function only in S, M. modes
- Nikon D2H, D2H support the function only in modes S, M. For modes A and P, you need to update the firmware.
- On most cameras, in automatic camera modes (Auto, portrait, sport, macro, cute cat with a flower) Auto ISO always works and its work cannot be controlled. That is, you can not set a threshold or shutter speed. Usually the camera sets the lowest possible ISO value and uses the built-in flash.
- Some cameras, such as Nikon D100 they do not allow you to set the maximum ISO value for the auto-ISO function and at the same time use the entire range of basic ISO values. In case of Nikon D100For example, this is ISO 200-1600.
- Auto ISO often cannot use lower ISO values, for example Nikon D90, D700 in Auto mode, ISO cannot use the lower limit of ISO 100 (lo1) Also, some cameras, for example Nikon D80cannot use upper ISO values such as Hi1 for Auto ISO to work.
- Most cameras allow you to set only the limits of the ISO value, which differ by one step (twice). For example, you cannot select a ceiling for ISO 5000, but only ISO 3200 or ISO 6400.
- It is very strange, but for different Nikon central control centers, the Auto ISO setting is in different menu items. This is not always convenient, for example, I have several cameras and sometimes I get confused in the menu of different cameras.
- Many cameras have a very meager range of minimum shutter speeds for setting Auto ISO. For example, for Nikon D80 You can select the maximum shutter speed for Auto ISO from 1 second to 1/125 second. For Nikon D200 - from 1 second to 1/250 seconds. Believe me, 1/125 seconds - in many cases this is a lot, for example, such exposure is sorely lacking for convenient adjustment when working with telephoto lenses. At the same time, many Nikon cameras can use almost the entire range of maximum shutter speeds, for example, Nikon D700 can take a maximum shutter speed from 1 second to 1/4000 second - it's damn convenient for working with telephoto lenses.
- Auto ISO often behaves unpredictably when working with flash. Usually, when the external or built-in flash is turned on, the camera selects the minimum set or available ISO value, but sometimes when shooting with the flash, the camera automatically picks up the ISO value. Usually, ISO is raised at the maximum focal length of the zoom lens and with a long focusing distance.
- Many cameras have one or more programmable buttons. It is very convenient to configure the programmable button to turn on and / or control the Auto ISO function. This is sometimes difficult or not possible at all.
- Some cameras show 'ISO AUTO' in the optical viewfinder, and some cameras also show the value at which the picture will be taken. This can be used very well, for example, immediately change the shutter speed / aperture and achieve the lowest ISO values.
- Auto ISO does not work on younger Nikon cameras when using non-chip lenses, such as AI-S lenses type
- When working with external flashflash shows distance of his work (GN) only for the maximum ISO that is selected for the Auto ISO function. This is not always convenient.
- Some Nikon CZKs themselves choose a threshold for the minimum ISO value, for example Nikon D7000, D5100, D3200 when Auto ISO is on, it always uses the ISO 100 - ISO maximum range.
- In camera control mode M, the Auto ISO function may ignore set minimum ISO and use ISO from 100 (or 200) to the specified maximum value.
- When viewing data for pictures that were shot using the auto ISO, ISO value is highlighted in red (usually highlighted in red if the ISO is greater than the minimum value for this function, but there are nuances for different cameras).
If you know some of the nuances of Auto ISO for your Nikon camera, leave them in the comments.
Personal experience
I understand that there is a lot of boring text, but just understand how Auto ISO works on Nikon cameras and everything will become very clear. Instead of rereading the algorithms I have described, I advise you to simply experiment on your camera. Impressions and questions ask in the comments.
Conclusions
Auto ISO - very useful feature, access to Auto ISO on Nikon cameras is carried out only in P, A, S, M modes. The function works quite specifically, but intuitively.
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Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Well told! well done)
I have a Nikon D70S SLR Kit AF-S DX 18-70 mm 67mm, which ISO range should I use for outdoor portrait photography with ambient light and indoor portrait lighting under artificial lighting?
The more ISO, the more noise. Use minimum values. I have Nikon 7100, I try not to go above ISO 800. Each camera has its own ISO threshold. For a portrait, learn to use flashes, octaboxes, umbrellas ...
Tell me, all exhausted. What are the maximum sensitivity and shutter speed to be set on the Nikon 17-55 2.8 lens. Thanks.
I would set the maximum shutter speed to 1/80 (with a margin of 55 mm), and the sensitivity would go out of what kind of camera it is (you didn’t specify a camera, but different cameras have different noise thresholds).
Nikon 7100 camera
Arkady. Tell me more, there in the camera settings (Nikon 7100) you need to set the sensitivity, and maximum sensitivity. If I understand correctly, then the sensitivity should be set to 100? And how much maximum sensitivity?
Arkady, another question. Does the filter also play a role? Now there is a polarik Marumi.
Yes it's good! Thank you Arkady! Such a question: When shooting in the “M” mode (with obviously somewhat insufficient values of the exposure pair) and the set maximum ISO (obviously low for dark conditions - 200 units), the exposure compensation in “+” saves. At the same time, the entire Expotriad remains unchanged. Where does the camera get the ability to make a picture lighter? Thanks!
Denis, are you shooting without a flash? Formally, the picture should not change. Of course, we can assume that something similar to what photoshop does when adjusting the exposure, i.e. the brightness of all pixels in the picture is shifted by a certain amount, but nothing came across to me about this.
In M mode with auto-iso off and without flash, exposure compensation + - does not affect exposure itself. If a flash is used, the correction is taken by the flash.
Yes, flash photography, I forgot to point out the main thing (I was in a hurry to ask). On the flash (SB-900) installation M1 / 128, ISO avto and limited to 800 units. Although somehow difficult to perceive the ISO on the camera and ISO on the flash. There were no ISOs on Soviet outbreaks.
It is not clear why there are ISO settings on the flash, if they are on the camera. I almost always have an ISO limited to 400 on my camera. (and set to auto ISO). The flash is limited to ISO 800 units. (I took this figure “from the ceiling”, where the flash usually hits :)))). The frames are exposed enough in a variety of shooting conditions with low lighting.
Apparently this is necessary for working with old film machines that do not convey the ISO value for the flash. This helps to operate in auto flash mode without TTL metering. On modern CZKs, the ISO value is taken from the camera, and the one set on the flash is ignored.
Oil Painting.
Interesting on Kenon Auto ISO function is available
There is. And there are also a lot of problems.
On the Canon 1100d, auto ISO works in a similar way. First, the camera tries to achieve the desired exposure by changing the shutter speed and aperture, if this does not smoothly increase the ISO. The highest possible ISO is selected in the menu. The maximum shutter speed is calculated automatically depending on the focal length of the lens, for example, for 50mm max shutter speed 1/60.
On my Canon 350D there is no automatic ISO in PASM modes, in automatic modes Auto ISO works by itself without settings, while only a range of 100-400 units is used.
On the canon 1100D, auto ISO is present in all modes including M. The range is from 100 to the maximum set in the menu. Auto change is smooth, intermediate ISO values can be used. Auto ISO is activated by the button for selecting the value of ISO, i.e. when you press the button, you can choose either a specific value or auto ISO.
Arkady, many thanks for the article!
Yes, they just said “a bunch of problems” ... In general, when I switched to Nikon (D7000) from Olympus, I was surprised by the cut off capabilities of AUTOISO. Surprised by the dullness of the automation that does not understand the focal length (I'm sure in fact this is marketers tried), on Olympus all DSLRs had it. I am even more surprised that it is impossible to get to AUTOISO when scrolling through the ISO values! This is very convenient at times. And I am even more surprised that when AUTOISO is installed on my D7000, it is useless to change the value manually - it will immediately switch back to AUTOISO. Ugh damn what insanity! You have to go to the menu and turn it off there ... These are the "troubles". Implemented for a solid two in D7000, I hardly use it.
Most likely this is marketing. New cameras already understand the focal point, encouraging the buyer to choose a newer camera at 50MP. And senility is enough))
On NikonD7000, the minimum acceptable ISO value cannot be set in the manner described, well, or I didn’t succeed.
Perhaps it didn’t work out.
Good day. Arkady, Thank you for the article. I think you are mistaken, it is impossible to set the minimum acceptable ISO value for Nikon D7000. I went through the menu and manual, it turns out the minimum auto ISO value is automatically set to ISO100. I don’t quite understand with the maximum shutter speed, I need it change for each lens, or does it all depend on the shooting conditions? I had 1/30 (apparently the factory setting)
Yes, 'the minimum auto ISO sensitivity is automatically set to ISO 100' for the Nikon D7000, which is very strange. Yes, the maximum shutter speed must be changed for each lens. 1 / 30s is the default.
I understood this: the longer the lens (focal length), the shorter the maximum shutter speed should be for it. Probably this will help to avoid “shake”? or I'm completely confused)))
Yes, that's exactly it.
I would like to look into the eyes of Nikon marketers about auto exposure for focal lengths. The SLRs Olympus and Sony, which are in a much lower class (for example, the Sony A550), have this function, but the D7000 does not! It's just insanity ... I'm already thinking if I did the right thing, that from Sony I switched to Nikon .... Sony has much more necessary and useful features in any cameras, but Nikon, at the level of the Stone Age, feeds its users with its marketing ... I can't really understand why auto-exposure was not done in the D7000 ... Probably to annoy people once again ....
Sony, especially if you shot at least a month, but through decent glass, no one will be able to forget!
Non-mirrors (DSLRs) from Olympus, Fuji, Pentax, Panasonic also have their cool features ... I'm not talking about the technique a la Lake ...
And Nikons-Canones of mass tailoring (an indisputable fact) are good only with their dear native optics.
There is nothing strange here ... The minimum ISO is the established ISO, which was before the auto ISO was turned on .... With AUTOISO enabled, we change the ISO in the usual way - this will be the minimum ISO ... Another thing is that if you manually set the ISO value higher than the maximum ISO value, then this will be ignored and the ISO value will be set, which is in the MAXIMUM ISO ...
It's strange. The D5100 is sort of like the * younger * sister of the D7000, and in it the minimum allowed ISO value is set exactly as described in the article: i.e. you simply set “ISO Sensitivity” in “Sensitivity Settings”. ISO ”- this will be the minimum ISO value for Auto ISO. I mean, as I understand it, there is no such thing as “minimum auto ISO value” - in fact, this is simply “ISO sensitivity”.
Yes, that's right.
In the D7000, “ISO sensitivity” is this minimum ISO value ... But if the “ISO sensitivity” value is set higher than the “Maximum sensitivity” value, then the value in the “Maximum sensitivity” item will be used ...
Especially useful, checked. Even for a laugh, I clicked three times ... The minimum value (100) still exists, BUT if it is set by me, the owner, it will mean - in fact - we will only remove it at ISO 100. Or go from Auto to M (handbrake). I hope you understand where to pick raisins?
I installed 200, then 600, 800 (I thought that the picture would be of better quality), and now - 6400. Frames at 3200-6400 are not masterpieces, even on D7000 with light glass, if they were filmed in a forest or indoors, but let will ...
So, today I set the ISO 6400 limiter. This means that in mode A (aperture priority, I mostly shoot in this mode) with an open hole (my declared aperture of 1,8) the camera will work with any shutter speeds and in the “fork” ISO 100 - 6400 units As it was intended by me.
When shooting in an over-light or over-dark environment, my camera will go on strike. But it will definitely give a sign ...
Good day to everyone. By observing the auto ISO score, the Nikon system in low light first increases the shutter speed to the maximum set values, then raises the ISO, if necessary, to the set limit. Having stepped into it again, it starts to lengthen the shutter speed. At least on budget DSLRs.
It depends on the shooting mode.
I also noticed that it can increase shutter speed without increasing the minimum ISO, for example ISO 200. This can occur when shooting indoors in the direction of the window (backlight). Fotik D5100, mode A, the minimum shutter speed is set to 1/15.
* maximum shutter speed 1/15
Good day. Thank you for the article. AutoISO on its D3100 studied the features of work experimentally. But I just noticed that there is a difference in the operation of Auto ISO in viewfinder mode and LiveView mode. For example, in M or A mode, with F / 1.8 and 1/60 and other identical settings (metering, PictCont, exposure compensation = 0), the camera sets ISO 720 when shooting through the viewfinder, switches to LV, takes a picture and voila! under the same shooting conditions, the camera sets ISO 1250-1400! And the picture accordingly looks brighter. What is a bug or feature?
An idea came up with exposure through the viewfinder, but it was not confirmed, I closed the viewfinder from the light - nothing changes, in the LV AUTOISO mode it sets 1 stop more.
It’s hard for me to say, because before shooting, the camera should generally lower the mirror and measure using the usual method.
I can say why so.
In LV mode, the exposure meter works by matrix metering. In usual - point, center weighted or “matrix” (in quotes, because it is not matrix, but multizone).
Do this: select a frame with a uniform image, in other words, point the camera at the white ceiling, so that nothing but white appears in the frame and conduct your experiment again. I think in this case the results will be the same or close
Thank you for your site and for the article in particular. I am studying digital photography with the D200 and your site helps me a lot in this. Thanks again.
Pros, Likes, Tweets, etc. with gratitude to you, Arkady! All your articles are good, and this one is especially like a balm for the soul. In the instructions for the camera (D5100) - on this issue the darkest forest (some kind of continuous Google Translate), here - a clear field :-). One interesting little "difficulty in translation": in the Russian menu - Maximum shutter speed ("Max. Shutter speed"), and in the English menu - "Minimum shutter speed" (Minimum shutter speed). In the sense, everything is correct, but the correct perception of words - there is Maximum, and there is Minimum - requires thoughtfulness ... :-)
A very necessary article, somehow completely this opportunity fell out of memory, due to the "fixation" on the maximum ISO (ie on noise). Just now I remembered about the need to set the range of values ... for which - many thanks)
I have come to the conclusion that it is better to limit the DX format camera to ISO 800. and “help” the correct exposure in difficult conditions with an external flash, rather than shoot at high ISO with all the consequences (it is clear that except in cases where the use of flash is limited).
Not quite true, for example, new cameras behave quite well with ISO 1600 (I mean when using these values without regard to noise), I put up to ISO 300 on the D800, but ISO 7000 on the D1600.
In addition, even on my 3100, under certain lighting conditions, it is possible to get enough high-quality pictures at ISO 3200, but not always ... It's just that when shooting animals with a telephoto lens, the flash helps a little.
Arkady, thank you so much for the article! It is very good, if not fully described, the work of such a wonderful function as Auto-ISO, which I use regularly (in 95% of cases). From personal experience: I previously took pictures with old manual lenses and set the ISO value manually. And I set the lowest ISO 100-200. Over time, I changed my view on noise, switched to autofocus native lenses, switched from “M” to “A” mode, and almost always use the “Auto-ISO” function. For my camera (d90), I defined the following thresholds: min - 200, max - 800, shutter speed - 1/30 (for 50mm). On the crop at iso 800 - a completely low-noise picture comes out, although I do not turn off the noise reduction in the camera, tk. became much less likely to edit photos on a computer. Although I think if you remove noise in the editors, you can achieve an even lower noise level.
On a full-frame carcass, I think you can safely set the maximum threshold at 1600, or even more. Share your experience on the d700?
Thanks again for the very helpful article! I think it will be useful to many, because I didn’t fully understand how this function worked before. And now I trust her 100%, because The function works exactly the same way as I myself would put ISO in all situations!
On my D700, the maximum ISO is often limited to 3200, it all depends on the situation, sometimes I put 6400, for example, for reviews on dark lenses. I set the threshold on D80 to 800. I don’t use ISO on d40, there is either ISO 200 or ISO 400, everything else is noisy. On Kenon, I don’t have an ISO car.
Thanks for the information, it was interesting :)
Thank you for the article. I didn’t know a few things.
I’m not quite sure, because I didn’t notice, but you circumvented the situation with minimal exposure on the new Nikon devices (D5200, D7100).
After all, they know how to increase the shutter speed threshold automatically when increasing the focal length at zooms.
I did not go around, I wrote about this in an article.
Clear. You just wrote in general, but it is, the details. Thanks for the info on Auto ISO.
just yesterday I had the opportunity to shoot (nikon D7000, nikkor 50mm 1.8g, F 2,8, 3.6, 4.0) with the settings that are given in the text: max. shutter speed 100, ISO 800, sometimes 1600 and shot in aperture priority, sometimes in shutter priority. and shot kids and their moms, there was a children's party in honor of one girl’s birthday. friends, I ditched ABSOLUTELY ALL PHOTOS !!, it seems that the pictures looked nothing like that on the display, and I continued to stamp in A further. but upon arrival home, and when examined on a monitor, I realized that it was a disaster. all the same, do not abuse high iso. Yes, the thing is that I did not shoot so much before in A, only in M. well, we can achieve our goals through mistakes and disappointment. Good luck in the photo industry :)
What is the manifestation of the photo?
IMHO when shooting indoors with insufficient lighting, the photos in any case will be either noisy (high ISO) or blurry (long exposure) - the main thing is to find a compromise. As for me it is better to be noisy than blurry.
Yes, there is a third option to use flash.
Roman, everyone has been in your situation at least once. On the D7000, even with a 50 mm f / 1,4 G lens, I had to raise the ISO to shoot indoors (without an external flash). Yes, the pictures do not shine in this case with detail and sharpness, unclear in one word, especially if you look at the eyes of the subject. There is no stub in fifty dollars, and every movement and trembling of hands affects. Mode A or M is not very important in this situation. It is necessary to get rid of noise (from its appearance) or not allow it during the shooting. Noise reduction in programs leads to loss of sharpness of the picture. FX cameras can afford to shoot at high ISOs and that's not always buzzing. You need light, light and only light (external flash, for example), and then even with dark lenses you can get high-quality photos.
just “make noise” the picture. I am generally against high ISO, I set a maximum of 200, and that is rare, but in the room 400. So when I looked in exif and there ISO 800 (!), a chill swept down my spine !! :) but unfortunately I don't have a cool flash like Nikon SB-910.
Manifest in C1, there is good noise.
I once shot on film and maybe it affected (the old film standard in terms of sensitivity is approximately equal to the new one), but I'm not a fan of high ISO either. My favorites were 64 ASA and 125 ASA films. There were both 250 and 400 - standards for evening shooting, so to speak, but with "grain" (especially 400). Therefore, I am wary of ISO over 400 on DSLRs. Perhaps the modern quality standard allows some noise in the picture, but I really don't want to give the client “noise” :). And I strongly recommend purchasing an external flash (I do not impose or advertise :)), I use the SB-900 (by the way, a paradox: the newer SB-910 is cheaper than the SB-900). As a user of D7000 + 18-105 + SB-900 + shooting in RAW from practice, I will say that you can actually shoot in almost complete darkness at ISO 640 (and even 500). In the converter, "pull out" the shadows a little and that's it - the picture is ready, not a magazine-quality masterpiece, of course, but excellent in terms of detail and noise. So, take an external "light bulb" - do not waste your time, you will take pictures at the level.
When training various modes, I had questions:
1) On most cameras, in automatic modes of the camera (Auto, portrait, sports, macro, cute cat with a flower) Auto ISO always works and its operation cannot be controlled. That is, neither the threshold nor the shutter speed can be set. Usually the camera sets the lowest possible ISO values and uses the built-in flash. - on my Nikon D5100, the camera does not use the minimum shutter speed, but selects from 640-2000 depending on the illumination.
2) in A mode - the photo turned out to be overexposed (ISO 6400, F / 5.6), and in S mode - on the contrary, a very, very dark photo. What did you do wrong?
And yet, what is the best value to set for a minimum ISO?
And another question, for beginner talents))) is it better to turn on the ISO auto or disable it for the M, A, S, P modes?
The ISO camera starts to increase only if it is impossible to achieve the desired exposure using shutter speed and aperture, therefore it is better to turn on the auto, it will not be worse, but you can quickly take a picture in poor lighting.
I accidentally found your site, read some notes and realized that this is the best site that I have seen. Many thanks for the clear and clear explanations. Very well helps to understand many issues. I have a Nikon d5100 with an AF-S nikkor 18-105mm lens. 1: 3.5-5.6G ED. The lack of sharpness of the pictures was somewhat frustrating, with any shooting parameters, I have to sharpen everything in Photoshop. Apparently a more advanced lens is needed. And the camera is noisy already at ISO-800, which greatly limits the shooting conditions.
hello Arkady! On my d700, in “A” mode, when the flash is on, Auto iso does not raise the sensitivity in low light, so if you want to illuminate, in slow sync mode, you have to select iso manually. Can this be treated in the settings? I did not find! Thanks in advance!
This is a feature of the camera.
An informative article, I will know when choosing a camera :)
Good afternoon Arkady! I really liked your site. Tell me how to set Auto ISO in Nikon D5100 in modes A and S. Many thanks!
When shooting with an external flash, the D7000 camera in M mode and set auto ISO 800 persistently does not raise ISO above 140. The histogram is “correct”, and the picture is very underexposed and dark. If you set the ISO manually, 400 for example, you get a normal picture.
When shooting (with a flash) in A mode and the auto ISO 1600 is set, the camera automatics does not exceed the 1000 ISO threshold - it's also funny somehow, i.e. even 1100 or 1400 ISO is not exposed.
Hello, I have such a question.
D7000 when installing Auto ISO can not choose ISO more than what is set in the settings.
Well: In Auto ISO there is a maximum of 1600, I want to take a frame with ISO 3200 by exposing it with a button and a wheel, but the photo is still taken with ISO 1600. Mode M.
What could it be? The camera defect is either okay, or I didn’t figure it out.
While I set the manual ISO, it turns out 1000 times more convenient than an automatic machine.
Thank you.
Good afternoon, I have such a question, what is the maximum shutter speed for a car and put a nikon d5100 camera lens 18-105, it turns out the maximum focal lens is 105 * 1.5 = 160. Do I understand correctly.