For the opportunity review lens MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135 Many thanks to Igor Tihan.
This review presents a multi-coated version. The 'MC' in the lens name stands for 'МtionСloyal permeation '(often also called МultiproСbranching from an English like 'MC' - Multi Coating).
There are several modifications of JUPITER-37, produced at different times:
- MC Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135, 1990-2002 (the prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name, this lens is shown in this review)
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 MS, 1983-1986
- MC Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135, 1986-1989 (prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name)
- Jupiter-37A MS-N-30 3.5 / 135, 1983-1984
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135since 1978
- Юпитер-37AМ 3,5/135, 1990-2002
Perhaps the weight of different versions is slightly different, you won't feel it to the touch. The letter 'M' most likely stands for 'Upgrade' the lens. If someone has more detailed information on the design difference, add it in the comments.
Therefore, in this review I will not dwell on a detailed description of the lens, but I will focus only on the difference in versions. If you read Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 review, you will know everything about MC Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135.
Jupiter-37 is a legendary Soviet lens, super portraiture, easy to use, relatively cheap with excellent image quality. Both versions of 'MC' and 'Not MC' are good.
The MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135 lens is very well made, it is pleasant to work with it.
Enlightenment of the front lens MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135:
Enlightenment of the rear lens and the look of a chic 12-blade aperture lens:
This is what a lens with a native metal hood installed looks like:
At one time, the MS version of the lens cost a lot of money. For example, the version without MS was several times cheaper, you can see for yourself... There is also the 'Olympic' version of the Jupiter-37A lens, it is no different from the usual Jupiter-37A except for the original olympic case and production around 1980. I would not bother looking for either the 'Olympic' or 'MC' versions of the lens, but would take the first successful copy of any of the Jupiter-37A.
The difference between MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135 and Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135
The MC version is marked in red, white and yellow. In the 'Not MC' version, all markings are in white. This is clearly visible in the photo below. Although there are variants of lenses with slightly different designations than the one shown below:
The difference is enlightenment. The 'non-MC' version has a lilac (violet-bluish) enlightenment. The 'MC' version has a greenish enlightenment. This is clearly seen in the photo below:
Enlightenment of the rear lenses is also very different:
Another difference is that the 'MC version' hood cannot be installed backwards. The non-MC version can be installed backwards, making it easy to carry with you at all times. When back-mounted hood access to the focus ring is not lost, but in this position you cannot put the protective cap on the lens.
Sample photos on MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135
All photos taken on Nikon D700without processing. How to use interchangeable shank lenses on modern Nikon cameras read here, and on Canon here.
How to use with modern cameras?
'A' lenses with an interchangeable shank, such as the one in this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both DSLR and mirrorless), just select correct adapter. The replacement 'A' shank usually has an external M42 thread and an 'H' mount (similar to Nikon F). For use on modern cameras, the easiest way is to add the required adapter from M42 to the desired system or from Nikon F to the desired system to this shank.
Catalog modern brand lenses 'Zenitar' и 'Helios' can look at this link.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions
MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135 and Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 - excellent lenses. Both options are good. I recommend this lens to all interchangeable lens camera owners.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Hello. Is it worth overpaying for the “MS” version or not. Because, as I heard that MC ENLIGHTENMENT is erased. What are your opinions?
not worth it. Here it is more likely that a specific instance was sharp and without problems and with a hood in the kit.
Soviet enlightenment is usually quite easy to wear off. Soviet optics is always a tape measure, and a successful copy of the non-MC version will give a picture better than an unsuccessful copy of the MC version.
IMHO, you should not overpay.
Does he hold backlight very poorly?
Normal a37
he shoots well, only on the crop it turns out so focal that you won’t get too fast with it, only in nature if there’s little use in the room, so I rarely use my 37a to skip the picture, but I don’t shoot 44m-4, Sonya even abandoned his native fix because of the cups
Please tell me Jupiter 37 on the crop (nikon d 7100) is suitable for shooting a portrait? or something else to watch?
It will do just fine as a portrait painter. Only on the crop the EGF is large - you have to step as far as possible and remove it preferably from a tripod to avoid grease from stirring. Even better - Tair-11A. Very good Kaleinar-5N. If you have money, you can look for Nikon 105mm f / 2.5 (AI, AI-S or the old Nikon-P zonar), this is a different quality level, but also a different price.
The Chinese adapter is of course installed, but there is no infinity with it. I had to mill about 1,5 mm thick from the inside and re-drill the fasteners. But the trouble is worth it - it turned out to be an interesting lens for staged street photography.
Please tell me, are such traces on the rear lens significantly affect the result? And is it possible to remove them without damaging the coating?
Unscrew the circlip, wipe with microfiber and do not suffer.
I suspect that the imprint from the outside does not look like the lens was removed. Lenzpen doesn't help.
I took out the lens, it was not possible to clean it with standard means ...
Do not influence, do not wipe anything
Tell me please! How can I attach a protective glass to Jupiter 37a?
About some points in this article ...
I have Jupiter 37a that does not match the description.
There is no MC symbol on it - and I do not see either a blue or a green tint at the lenses at all, although the lens is new, not used.
Wherein:
- the symbolism is applied with colored paint, like in the MC versions
- the hood is not installed in the transport position, as in the MC versions.
Enlightenment is always there and always has some shade. If there is no enlightenment, it is marriage. Most likely, you just did not see it, because it is single-layer and does not have a strong ebb. Look at an angle, change the light.
bought ms installed on the Panasonic Lumix DMC-G6. through the adapter FOTGA M42-M4 / 3
pluses are over
Minuses: Mom must not go back ... quality ... well, at the level of helios 44m-6, just don't run back ...
fit two people into the frame when they are standing side by side - run over to and fro ...
Quality would not say space ...
Question: Maybe we need to put a shorter adapter in order to reduce these 135? or even not a telephoto lens and not a portrait lens -?
Special thanks to the author and his models!
You can purchase a Chinese SpeedBuster, for example, this: https://goo.gl/VVNJVM
Only it costs more than Jupiter itself :)
But there will be not twice a crop on the EGF micrometer, but somewhere and a half (in the viewing angle).
the question arises whether these 135mm on panas
comrade offers a German F2.8 135 mm and they take my doubts - the same binoculars will be like Jupiter ... are there examples of where to use them? or is it better to save up for decent optics ...
are there thin adapters on the M42-M4 / 3 will work with them? Who used please unsubscribe pliz
Hello, Dima.
If you mean Pentacon, don't mess with it. It is inferior to Jupiter both in HA and in sharpness - http://evtifeev.com/20492-pentacon-auto-135-2-8-mc-vs-yupiter-37a-135-3-5.html
I’ll add from myself that all Soviet lenses are inferior to modern ones in sharpness and contrast. I’ve been doing photography for about 50 years. Therefore, I dare to give advice: do not waste precious time and money. Save up for decent optics, bad optics can discourage the desire to engage in this wonderful hobby.
Yeah, just what are we comparing to? With discrete Nikkorovsky boots Sony and TD?))) 135 ideally can be found for 20ue. Top glass on which type ,,, save ,,, are four-digit amounts. What is true boot 135 2.0 is 50 times better for LOVER? Tie up with insanity. It is strange that for 50 years in photography she didn’t teach you anything. IMHO
I didn’t see insanity in the comment you evaluated, although I do not completely agree with him.
All modern glasses are of a class higher than “kit” - better than the old “Soviet” ones - definitely. To say otherwise is silly. The difference in price is different. You can see that photography taught Wladimir a lot, and your attacks are connected not more than with the inability to buy and save, although your hobby for photography should have taught you this!)))))
If we approach from the side of economy, then Jupiter 135 can be taken to FF, but definitely not to the budget KROP. It makes little sense - you have to hold down the shutter speed, increase the ISO, the photos will not please.
It is better to work with Jupiter-37A and be convinced of its merits on personal experience ...
about the guardians arrived)))
They'd put it on Nikon One ...
If people with experience, then I will not have problems with the manual, a sistemnik and Canon mirrors, and sometimes both are mowed on auto focus ... if the nerves are okay, the manual is the most ... the main thing is a diamond eye
The main thing is that they are still Jupiter-37A
I got Jupiter-37A from a relative of the photographer, the 1976 lens is still in perfect condition
Hello everyone,
what kind of material is glued inside old blends?
Thank you for the information. You can imagine how much effort it took you to collect it. Thank you!
The lens is a nightmare !!! Getting them into focus is a great success.
I had two such lenses, both MCs, one from my father in 1986, the second mine, from 1990. In those years, they cost 110 Soviet rubles. On film, both lenses showed good results. They are not suitable for digital cameras: it is impossible to focus through the viewfinder window - constantly focusing from the side of the object (back focus), so that you need to take a shutter speed of 1/1000 from your hands, no longer, otherwise there will be blur.
I have a strong opinion that these lenses are praised either by those who sell them (to be more expensive), or those who have never removed them.
If I were to be returned to those years, then I would have typed Helios-40-2 instead. Then, at the price of one Jupiter-37A MS, you could buy as many as 3 !!! Heliosov-40-2
If you have back focus on the camera, then with any fast lenses there will be problems with focusing, you need to adjust the carcass.
I have a non-MS version, I shot it on Nikon-crop (I haven't installed it on FF yet) - everything is fine there, both by the confirmation point and by LiveView. The shutter speed is about 1 / 200-1 / 320. And when shooting handheld, especially people, focus bracketing is done. The tripod is fine the first time. If without taking into account the features of focusing, then both in quality and in the picture this glass makes 70-300G
Comrades, what is the back focus with manual lenses? Back focus is talked about when using autofocus. I shot with the Ju-37A (and other 135+ lenses) on the Sony A6400, I didn't notice any particular problems with focus. In addition to the fact that it is always more difficult to focus on telephoto lenses. And, of course, exposure 1000+, tk. shaking hands has a stronger effect on the result than fifty dollars. ))
back as well as front focus with manual glasses can easily be.
if you focus exclusively on the matte FE, then, even at 100% vision, there may be errors if the distance from the mount to the sensor is not exactly the same as the distance from the mount to the FE. if you focus using the confirmation of the phase-detection AF system, then the error can be, and it can be reduced by programming a correction to the chip on the adapter. and only when shooting in LV there are no mistakes :)
Good day to all! I am faced with a choice on the nikon D 7000! Jupiter 37a or Tair 11A!? Does it make sense to overpay for tair 11a
It depends on how much to overpay, but I think there isn’t much sense.
Roughly speaking, from 1000 gr. and more
It depends for what purpose. Jupiter is more versatile and harsh. Tair's picture is more beautiful, softer / softer when open. But the difference in price can be several times.
On the D7000, both lenses are difficult to shoot.
What can you advise! Long-focus portraiture (non-commercial)
If you feel sorry for a pittance, take the U-37A, you will still wear it 3 times a year - a narrow angle, manual focus.
Available there is a sigma 17-50 2.8 I plan nlkon 80-200 2.8 mk lll and above. But while the family budget does not allow my beloved for myself, I want to interrupt with something cheaper, but I also want a beautiful picture! And what can you say about this instance of Tele-N 3.5 / 200. Tripod is available!
I have Tair-11a, Jupiter-11a, and there were several Jupiters-37a, including the rare and other MS-N-30, so I can say for sure that there is no point in overpaying for Tair. In the open, many Tahirs are very soft, in most situations you need to hide behind for half a stop, and it is compared in terms of aperture with Jupiter-37a, which is very sharp already with the open. Already at 37a, in the open, there is excellent even sharpness over the entire area of the frame; in Tair, at the same aperture, it decreases to the periphery, even noticeably on the crop. Well and mass dimensions, Tahir weighs one and a half times more and is noticeably larger. The only plus for Tair for me is the larger diameter of the focusing ring, it is easier to focus on sharpness.
And at prices 37a at flea markets, it’s full and easy to find for 1500r, and if you're lucky, then for 500r. They want at least 6t.r. for Tahir, as for me, it is greatly overrated, probably due to rarity.
Also, be prepared for the fact that you have to buy a KP-A / N tail, and this is 1000r for a remake or 1500 for an original Soviet one. You can't get off with an ordinary adapter for 60r, there will be no infinity. You can try to get by with a T2-mount adapter, but this is a lottery, long screws will have to look for 100%, and some are still “lucky” and there is no infinity, on a lathe you need to grind T2 inside to sit a little deeper.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wt5SG7rpvrA&feature=youtu.be
Indeed, it’s quite an option if it is not intended to be used on other systems.
As in the video, everything is much easier or rather cheaper!
Tell me what a beast!
Could you give your opinion on versions 37A?
I have a regular 37A version. I like the lens very much, the sharpness is gorgeous across the entire field of the frame straight from f3.5, “3D-shnost” is great! But the only thing that saddens is how the tone and color reproduction of photos comes out without processing. The contrast is very low, the colors are somewhat bluish. In post-processing, both colors and contrast, on the contrary, become simply extraordinary in beauty! But you have to poke around hard every time.
Thinking that the MS version could improve the situation, I purchased the MS-N-30. However, no matter how much I compared it with my usual 37A, I did not see any improvements at all! Moreover, detailing was even worse. Sold it, left his first lens. But from time to time I still think, maybe the pictures from the same MS 37AM will be better? It is in color reproduction and contrast. Or is it not worth jerking?
If you draw an analogy with the 9th, then you should not twitch
Thanks! It's a pity. In theory, in Soviet times, they didn’t take money for nothing. And in the case of this lens, the MS version was much more expensive.
More expensive does not mean better. MS-N-30 cost about one and a half times more expensive, and, as you noticed, the picture quality from it is not higher.
If cyanosis is annoying (which, by the way, does not always manifest itself and is eliminated if the BB is not installed correctly in the camera, then in the editor for sure), change 37a to 11a with violet-orange enlightenment, it takes pictures with a warm shade.
Most likely, you had an unsuccessful instance of the MS version. I had both, tested in pairs.
The MC version is noticeably less glare if there is a bright light source in the frame, for example, a flash or a light bulb. In practice, there will be no noticeable halos from night lights in the MC version. But, with a modern whale zoom, of course, even the MC version in terms of contrast and glare resistance was not close, so you should not shoot against the light with the MC.
The veil in the lateral flare is the same as in the single-layer version - the wide end of the lens and its blackening are to blame. If you shoot at 45 degrees in the sun, so that the sunbeam is concentrated on the end of the lens, then there will be a veil, regardless of the MS version or the usual one. Here only use the hood and avoid hitting the bunny on the end of the lens.
Further, in low light, it is clear that the colors in the shadows on the MS are somehow cleaner. And the histogram shows that the shape of the blue and green color curve is slightly more contrasting.
In practice, it is noticeable that on a cloudy day or when it dawns and is not so light, the green foliage on the MS looks somehow fresher and richer than on the single-layer version.
(But in the single-layer version, you can twist the vibrance during post-processing)
I did not notice the difference between the 2 versions in sharpness.
When shooting on a sunny day, and not against the sun, I did not notice the difference between the versions either.
Verdict:
It makes sense to take MS if they offer no more than 25% of the price of a single-layer version. If not, then you can stay on the single-layer version, you will not lose much.
Where do you get such "flea markets" and adapters for 60 rubles?
My trunk has a slight backlash, and it scrolls a little bit when you twist the diaphragm. That is how it should be?
No, but I don’t advise you to climb it yourself. First you need to study the design and understand what's what.
Good day! Please tell me which adapter is suitable for installing this lens on Fujifilm xt-2?
If a KP-A \ N shank (i.e. Nikon bayonet), Nikon F-Fuji X adapter is installed on the lens, if the tail is M42, then, respectively, M42-Fuji X.
I had different Jupiter 37, but the AM version is the highest quality, I don't even think to sell it. Enlightenment is of the highest quality, that's why it cost in the USSR as 3 Helios-40. A very rare lens on the market.
Quite a strange lens. Photos from it are excellent, but it is not portrait - the 3.5 aperture cannot be portrait. In practice, the lens is in the cabinet, its hood is screwed to Jupiter-9. It is convenient to take pictures at full frame with a 50mm lens. Do portraits at 85mm. Shoot discreetly with lenses with a focal length of 300 to 500mm. 130mm with 3.5 aperture - neither this nor that. But his picture is really beautiful.
Where do you get this? With my 100-300 / 5.6L, it perfectly shoots portters on both the wide and the long ends. The whale lens allows you to shoot portraits even at 55 / 5.6. In the studio, the most popular lens is 24-105 with aperture covered up to 8-11. Or do you only have a portrait when the model's ears blur along with the background greenery?
For half of the last century, people shot portraits on something like 135/4, then bringing the aperture to 2.8 - for a long time these were the most popular moderate telephoto lenses with a bias precisely in a close-up portrait. I use 135 / 2.8 with great pleasure, often covered up to 3.2-4 so that the depth of field is adequate and do not even look towards 135 / 2.0L, it will be much more expensive, but not much better.
There is no link in the article. So I ask. For Nikon d3300, what kind of adapter is needed, if the thread is 42 on the lens. The kit includes a converter k-1 2x. Has anyone used a converter with this lens?
M42-Nikon F
Adapter M42 - Nikon F. Converter - angle. https://radojuva.com/2015/05/mc-konverter-k-1-2x/
Better not an adapter (there will be no infinity with it without some modification of the lens), but a KP-A / N tail.
I came across an interesting version of MC Jupiter-37A. The name is spelled out as MC U-37A. What is this version? Do you have any information?
Most likely, everything is the same, only the name is different.
Jupiter 37a, Olympic 1978, is roughly new. There is no infinity. Why? Later with infinity.
There can be many reasons. You can't diagnose by photography)
Alternatively, the helicoid was assembled incorrectly, did not hit the required loop.
I got two copies of MC version, one is 37A, another 37AM.
I had a friend got a 37AM which manufactured in 2004.
this is definitely a good lens.
I won't agree that the AM modification stand for reduce the material quality by plastic.
I once disassembled the lens, nothing plastic from AM version.
the one difference I found is one ring/tube missing the back optical element.
I am still very curious what other modifications have been made.
when the aperture wide open, the resolution in center is still good, although can not compare with my Sigma 135 art.
but the bokeh , I do love this 135/3.5 and it's weight. sigma 135 almostly kill itself about the 1kg weight
all wide open
one question I had.
my friend's copy which produced in 2004, has a blue enlighenment.
when my two copy one is 80s, one is 90s, are all green enlightenment
2004? can you add a picture?
J-37A were produced till ~2007 in Kazan.
here you go, the enlightenment is blue.
I also found some 90s MC J-37AM has blue, not all Green.
I am not sure which enlightenment is better.
and I am really curious, what was modified from A to AM, the “suspicious of quality fall by plastic” is not ture, I disassembled it myself.
any people can share more info from Russian language world?
The only one way to say that 1 type of coating is better than another is to use UV-visible spectrometry to measure the quotient of transmission and color profile of both of lenses.
About AM and A marks I have no idea.
from a subjective observation is that my friend's copy is also not very well performed under backlight situation
In the most of situations a bad behavior in complicated light conditions is a consequence of bad quality of blackening of inner surfaces in lensblock, not due to low-quality lens coating. Using black pen and charcoal you could make a better mate blackening and get unbelievable for old picture contrast even without MC.
I assume the issue is this area
picture is here
try again
again
desperate to upload a picture
You have a lens with a violet-green MC coating, whereas your friend has a pure green version.
I do not know which one is better, probably the difference in behavior is marginal. What I can tell for sure is that your version is indeed MC, not single-coated with a fake shield, so do not worry.
I have my Jupiter with the same violet-green coating (see pic attached) and I tested it against a true single-layer coated version, so MC behaves a bit better in counter light, is less flare-prone, and has a bit better contrast.
my two copies of MC, the MC J-37A “86xxxxx” is very green, a little blue or purple.
the MC J-37AM is “93xxxx”, coating is a little less green than version A, but I would say, there is no difference against the back light.