For the opportunity review lens MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135 Many thanks to Igor Tihan.
Overview of the MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135 lens
This review presents a multi-coated version. The 'MC' in the lens name stands for 'МtionСloyal permeation '(often also called МultiproСbranching from an English like 'MC' - Multi Coating).
There are several modifications of JUPITER-37, produced at different times:
- MC Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135, 1990-2002 (the prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name, this lens is shown in this review)
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 MS, 1983-1986
- MC Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135, 1986-1989 (prefix 'MC' is placed before the lens name)
- Jupiter-37A MS-N-30 3.5 / 135, 1983-1984
- Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135since 1978
- Юпитер-37AМ 3,5/135, 1990-2002
Perhaps the weight of different versions is slightly different, you won't feel it to the touch. The letter 'M' most likely stands for 'Upgrade' the lens. If someone has more detailed information on the design difference, add it in the comments.
Therefore, in this review I will not dwell on a detailed description of the lens, but I will focus only on the difference in versions. If you read Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 review, you will know everything about MC Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135.
View of the MS Jupiter-37AM 135mm F3.5 lens when focusing on infinity
Jupiter-37 is a legendary Soviet lens, super portraiture, easy to use, relatively cheap with excellent image quality. Both versions of 'MC' and 'Not MC' are good.
View of the MS Jupiter-37AM 135mm F3.5 lens focused on MDF
The MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135 lens is very well made, it is pleasant to work with it.
MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135
Enlightenment of the front lens MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135:
Enlightenment of the front lens of the MC Jupiter-37AM 3,5 135 lens
Enlightenment of the rear lens and the look of a chic 12-blade aperture lens:
Enlightenment of the rear lens of the MC Jupiter-37AM 3,5 135 lens and aperture blades
This is what a lens with a native metal hood installed looks like:
MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 135 lens with a clad native metal hood
At one time, the MS version of the lens cost a lot of money. For example, the version without MS was several times cheaper, you can see for yourself... There is also the 'Olympic' version of the Jupiter-37A lens, it is no different from the usual Jupiter-37A except for the original olympic case and production around 1980. I would not bother looking for either the 'Olympic' or 'MC' versions of the lens, but would take the first successful copy of any of the Jupiter-37A.
Case from MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135
The difference between MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135 and Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135
The MC version is marked in red, white and yellow. In the 'Not MC' version, all markings are in white. This is clearly visible in the photo below. Although there are variants of lenses with slightly different designations than the one shown below:
Two lenses Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 and MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135
The difference is enlightenment. The 'non-MC' version has a lilac (violet-bluish) enlightenment. The 'MC' version has a greenish enlightenment. This is clearly seen in the photo below:
The difference in the enlightenment of the front lens Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 and MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135
Enlightenment of the rear lenses is also very different:
The difference in the enlightenment of the rear lens Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 and MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135
Another difference is that the 'MC version' hood cannot be installed backwards. The non-MC version can be installed backwards, making it easy to carry with you at all times. When back-mounted hood access to the focus ring is not lost, but in this position you cannot put the protective cap on the lens.
Sample photos on MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135
All photos taken on Nikon D700without processing. How to use interchangeable shank lenses on modern Nikon cameras read here, and on Canon here.
How to use with modern cameras?
'A' lenses with an interchangeable shank, such as the one in this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both DSLR and mirrorless), just select correct adapter. The replacement 'A' shank usually has an external M42 thread and an 'H' mount (similar to Nikon F). For use on modern cameras, the easiest way is to add the required adapter from M42 to the desired system or from Nikon F to the desired system to this shank.
Catalog modern brand lenses 'Zenitar' и 'Helios' can look at this link.
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Conclusions
MS Jupiter-37AM 3,5 / 135 and Jupiter-37A 3,5 / 135 - excellent lenses. Both options are good. I recommend this lens to all interchangeable lens camera owners.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Today I purchased version n-30)) I found about it: “MC Jupiter-37A N-30 (rare beast). They have better resistance to side light, slightly more contrast. Different color rendering ”. :)
Often such phrases are written by sellers to attract attention. It would be nice if such a copy visited Arkady for a review. Here he would receive an objective independent assessment. In any case, congratulations on your purchase, I think you will be satisfied, a decent lens.
Regarding the comparison of two versions: “MC” and “MC-
H-30 ".
About the comparison of MS and simple 37A there are not enough
info on the internet. I happened to have right away
two different versions of MS.
MS-N-30 was produced for only about one year -
in 1983, and judging by the numbers in early 1984.
I met copies with numbers up to
834283. I suppose that it was released
about 5-6 thousand pieces The price for them was 120r.
Today prices depend on the impudence of sellers -
from 2500 to 12500 p. Find in excellent
condition is possible, but difficult.
According to unverified data used
some kind of special enlightenment (or
vacuum, or “nano-sputtering”). In total
discontinued due to expensive
production, leaving the production of ordinary
MS.
Enlightenment, in addition to a greenish tint,
also blue. It is a distinctive exterior
hell. Also, the rear lens is not biconvex, but
almost flat on the outside. IN
the rest in appearance and design is ordinary
37A.
.
Based on the test results, I came to the conclusion:
+ open a little lighter (somewhere a quarter
foot), but not always;
+ much better holds back light;
+ contrast on the open is better (as against
there is no light);
+ sharpness on the open above;
.
- a rarity;
- price.
.
I definitely recommend this version
enlightenment!
Is anything known about the raspberry-colored version?
well there: differences in image quality, etc.
Please tell us more about your impressions of him. I saw the price for it at 15.000r. How much did you manage to buy? Thanks!
Good evening. The MC Jupiter 37A lens is really very constructive. I know from my own experience. He filmed it for many years. But once he fell from a height of 1 meter onto the asphalt and the rear lens began to dangle, that is, there was a fact of poor-quality lens assembly. Gently tightening the clamping nut, I found that (visually) the quality of the pictures taken with this lens did not deteriorate. Later I tested it on a digital Sonya, comparing it with Tair 3FS at a distance of about 50 meters - the picture quality with Jupiter 37A turned out to be higher.
The lens is undoubtedly good, but for its price, it is very far from the manual Nikkor 135 \ 2. The "native" Soviet adapter KP-A \ N, which came with the lens, also, like the Chinese ones, does not allow it to "fly" to infinity , so when buying, you need to try on your camera. But how great, emphasized textured, he shot courageous male portraits in the style of socialist realism on bw film! Personally, as for me, for a romantic female portrait, his picture is somewhat harsh, even on an open one, but for a group portrait, shooting children and animals - that's the very thing, but for his current price, with its dimensions and constructiveness, he simply has no equal ! (IMHO)
PS To your message. Everything that I wrote is true for crop. At the full frame, like Arkady in the photo, the depth of field is naturally smaller, and the picture becomes much more beautiful!
I successfully corrected the "undershoot" of infinity in 20 minutes. It turned out that in spite of the "Quality Mark", it was caused not by a defective KP \ AN adapter, but by a crooked Soviet factory assembly "after lunch", when installing the lens unit, they simply "missed" with a multi-start thread for one "run", and was induced lens no further than 30 meters. A detailed description of how to fix it here: http://ru-d70.livejournal.com/2193178.html, maybe someone else will help.
All “comrades” of successful pictures!
Arkady - Many thanks for his work!
And the 7th photo of a boy with pigeons is just a BOMB!
Thank you very much for your great work. Everything is very interesting. please tell me how to install MS Jupiter-37AM on a CENON EOS 600 D camera
http://m42-eos.ru/adapter.php Here, look at the choice. Delivery on delivery. payment, 1st class, convenient.
Arkady! Thank you for your work, for the information - clearly and informatively. I accidentally went to Radozhiva - I will read on.
Good day everyone! Who will tell you why the flash on the D90 with Jupiter-37AM does not fire, like all flash modes and shooting have tried, even shooting does not take place when the flash is open.
"It seems" does not count, but the answer is here https://radojuva.com.ua/2011/04/optika-na-nikon/#how-flash
Arkady, thanks for the prompt help, I will figure it out, I think everything will work out. I really liked your site, to be honest, I looked at the process of shooting with different eyes, discovered lenses that I didn’t know existed (MC MTO 1000/10 is the brightest example). Good luck!
Is it worth taking such glass on a double-crop without a stub? Wouldn't it be too hard to aim at 270mm EGF?
Good afternoon!
A few days ago, the MS Jupiter 37AM lens fell into my hands, abundantly smeared in the tail, with a hood in an ordinary black case, it can be seen that the screws did not twist especially or in general, the slots were all smooth, there were no scratches around. Proceeding from this, I think he was cherished, but here's the bad luck, there are some kind of mirror spots in the amount of two pieces on it. On the front lenses from the inside ?? perhaps. Be kind, share ideas, what is it? Does it affect the quality of the pictures, and is it treated at all? There is no opportunity to test these issues in practice now: / Thank you for your reasoning. Have a nice week! :)
Are these spots exactly? more like ordinary glare (reflection) from external light sources.
Thank you Arkady for responding. That's right, I put it badly, these are transparent spots that when viewed from the outside under most of the angles glare, even if it’s difficult to capture the camera of a mobile phone. If you look through the lens, you can see only one of them, and then only in the form of a darkened area. I uploaded a short video, I think it will say more than me! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FO-vIPTVJRY
Most likely oil on the lenses.
This is an air bubble in the gluing of two lenses, there was an impact that moved the lenses - falling or heating, maybe
Or at the factory they glued it badly - little glue or poorly ground.
Thank you so much for your work - the best site that gives a huge amount of extremely detailed and accessible information submitted, especially for beginners. Thanks to you, I gained a lot of knowledge and debunked many myths regarding Soviet optics. Now I use Helios 44-2, Industar 50-2, and recently acquired, thanks to your reviews, Jupiter 37A MC. He did not open it with a rhinestone, because his hands were sharpened under a fifty-dollar lens and a whale lens. Great picture, sharpness and bokeh. True, I had to buy a hood separately, it was not included with the lens. There is the same problem, as Alexander wrote above - the back lens has stains. This is oil. There is a video on YouTube of a man taking off his lens and washing off this oil with an alcohol wipe. Removing the lens is elementary, just take a caliper and unscrew the ring with jaws to measure the inner diameters. I really didn't do it, because I don't see any effect on the picture.
Gorgeous glass! How I shot the video so I realized that I won’t shoot it with another glass! Nature is gorgeous! Portrait is gorgeous! In general, take it you won’t regret it for 100% !!
I used two used 37a for tests, took control shots and saw complete horror.
Neither sharpness nor contrast, only chic bokeh, even the whale was much better.
a masterpiece of Soviet cast-iron optics. After that, the word Jupiter ceased to sound to me.
And recently I tested its Japanese counterpart, which showed an excellent result, the man who gave me it for a test also proposed a new MS 37a. Without any desire, only to respect a person, he made control shots on the frames of the Japanese. III! I’m stunned, the pictures are gorgeous, they are not inferior to the Japanese in anything, everything is sharpness, contrast, colors. I think the whole problem is in the Soviet scammer, I need to sort out a few pieces when buying. I take without a conversation.
So for the "spread" of the quality of Soviet products, they have already written repeatedly, and this applies to absolutely any technique - in the 90s, the Vesna-212 tape recorder worked perfectly for some acquaintances, only the belts were periodically changed, for another friend the same spring every six months in the repair was rolling, and for various reasons ...
Vigorously, on internal lines (with diaphragms) - є oil. For 30-40 years, it was sublimated from the children of Ukraine, from Adnan to the linzi. Slid about, ktiv rozibrati, promiti linzy white spirit і once again carefully celebrate. Nichogo folding in the whole mute.
What can you say about Kaleinar-5N in comparison with MS Jupiter-37A?
these are two lenses with similar tasks, focal, but somewhat different in work.
Which one is a matter of taste. I like jupe better, though ...
Which one will make the Helios-81N campaign better
For a wider range of shoots: landscape, portrait (full length), macro
Bogdan, it would be more correct to start with which camera you are going to use (ff, crop) Shooting a landscape that is 100 mm or 135 mm is a hell of a trash. Also these lenses are not suitable for macro. For a full-length portrait, it's best to use 50mm (whatever you're looking at). If we compare Kalainar and Jupiter, then, in my opinion, Jupiter will be more interesting. Kalainar loses a little in sharpness, and 135 mm is 135 mm. I recommend reading the articles on this site, you will not ask such questions.
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I recently bought a brand new MC Jupiter-37A. I was delighted with the smell of Soviet solid oil - the lens is completely new. I screwed him an adapter to my favorite Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro and went for a walk. Since I have been “suffering” from photography for 38 years already, from the very first shots I realized that something was wrong ... not comfortable when focusing on focus ... Then again there were pictures and again, and it seemed like nothing, but internal discomfort remained. Today I couldn’t stand it and did a comparative test for sharpness with my whale Nikkor 18-55 and was surprised on the one hand, and on the other my disappointing forebodings were confirmed. I give you for review what happened - it's like food for thought for you ...
Vіrogіdno, on the lenses є oil. Treba rose and purity.
Crop
Most likely a grease or an unsuccessful instance, what was the shutter speed?
He described the situation for a long time and you tell me grease ...
Nikkor
crop of nikkor
And where does the autofocus check table?
And you don't look at it ... you look at the sharpness ...
So nothing surprising, quite natural test results. Nikkor's focal length is about 2,4 times shorter, naturally, the depth of field will be much larger. And if suddenly they were filming “in the open”, then even more so, Jupiter is much “lighter” - 3,5 versus 5,6. If you come across a "soft" Jupiter 37, then you can only envy it kindly. Personally, I think that the "U-37" suffers from excessive sharpness, which is why it was called the "male portraitist", in contrast to Tair, which is much "softer" in terms of sharpness and contrast. So do not worry, colleague, but use your Yu-37 for its “intended” purpose - as a wonderful portrait lens for medium distances (IMHO). Well, if you categorically want to “cut your fingers on the edges of the image”, then close the aperture to 5,6 and add sharpness in the camera settings, I'm sure it won't seem like a little. All comrades of good pictures and positive New Year's emotions!
Jupiter 37A was brought. Set. Condition for - 5! Most likely he “dressed” several times ...
But on the walls of the front gluing of the formation there are “white balls” up to 2mm in size.
Disassembled. The blackening of the gluing is perfect ...
See snapshot.
??
... here's another photo
Maybe it's air bubbles. D. Evtifeyev has an article about them; they do not affect the quality of the photo
Although it may be a fungus
About the fungus - it is doubtful ... When I opened the "container-case" there foam rubber turned into a kind of "thick jelly" and a strong special. smell, and the decay products of foam rubber are the strongest fungicide!
“Maybe it's air bubbles. D. Evtifeev has an article about them, they do not affect the quality of the photo ”- bubbles ..., perhaps. But blackening is PERFECT. Most likely, there should be CHANGES on the blackening (similarity - “plus fabric” or something similar) in the projection of the bubbles, but there is nothing there! Tomorrow I will try to "open" the blackening ... Unsubscribe ...
"Opened" blackening! The gluing end was clean, the paint came off with a scalpel easily, the color of the cleaned area was of the same tone with these “balls” ... I cleaned where the manifestation was most pronounced ... Then I tried to wash it with ethyl alcohol (96%) - the paint washes off easily ...
Blackening is scraped off and washed off easily ...
The gluing butt becomes uniformly translucent.
It looks like a new blackening will rid the glass of these “balls”.
Oops! I’ll try to hand over the scraping of the problem area to the laboratory, see what grows up ...
I’ll unsubscribe in a week ...
… one more photo
Sergey, how did it end? I have the same white dots))
Who is looking for an adapter KP / an it is sold in the online store "18-300ru" tel. 89780327142. the price is 800 rubles. I ordered it there myself. Factory-made adapter with a passport. I got on Nikon without problems. There is infinity!