What flash to choose for Nikon cameras

Very often worth selection external flash for Nikon digital SLR cameras... In this article, I will only discuss the native Nikon SB-series Speedlights that can operate in modern i-TTL mode.

Choose an external flash

Choose an external flash

Before the purchase external flash I advise you to think about whether you need it at all. To do this, I advise you to read the materials in the article on the topic 'Why do I need an external flash'. If the purchase of a flash is justified, then Nikon provides the following external flashes:

Flash Weight, g Zoom Master Slave backlight V.Ch., m  Comment
SB-300 97 27mm, no zoom no no no 18 Lightest Nikon flash. Very simple. Uses small AAA batteries, does not support FP.
SB-400 127 27mm, no zoom no no no 21 Very simple flash. No FP mode.
SB-500 226 24mm, no zoom yes (only on older cameras) Yes Yes 24 A small flash without a display, but capable of a good set of basic functions.
SB-600 300 24-85mm no Yes Yes 30 Morally outdated amateur flash, good functionality for the money
SB-700 360 24-120mm Yes Yes Yes 28 Lightweight functional flash. A very good option. I recommend.
SB-800 350 24-105mm Yes Yes Yes 38 Powerful but outdated professional flash.
SB-900 425 17-200mm Yes Yes Yes 34 Good professional flash.
SB-910 420 17-200mm Yes Yes Yes 34 Flagship model. One of the best
SB-5000 420 17-200mm Yes Yes Yes 34.5 Flagship model. Best of its kind.
SB-R200 120 35mm, no zoom no Yes no 10 It can only work as a slave. flash using Nikon CLScannot be used on camera. No display for flash control. This flash is for macro photography.

Zoom - the limits of zooming the flash head, Master - the ability to remotely control other flashes, Slave - the ability to work in a slave mode, backlight - Possibility of auxiliary illumination for automatic focusing, V.Ch - guide number.

In a nutshell, the best external flashes are Nikon's flagship professional Speedlight SB-5000 and SB-910. Difference between SB-900 и SB-910 not so great, about the differences between the 900s and 910s I described in detail in the review SB-910. For professional shooting, there are no other native alternatives, since SB-800 morally outdated, and do not release it anymore. Outbreaks SB-800, 900, 910, 5000, unlike all the others from this article, have automatic shooting mode without TTL.

If you don’t need to shoot for days on end with a flash, then for more simple tasks, flashes are very suitable SB-600 и SB-700. Sorry, but SB-600 no longer being released, this flash is quite light, functional, but does not know how to control other flashes with Nikon CLS. Flash SB-600 It is cheap enough, but finding it new is very difficult. Unlike SB-600, new SB-700 It has a wider zoom, easier control through a large display and can work in Master mode.

SB-400 and SB-300 are the simplest and the cheapest external flash from Nikon. These flashes are very light, and therefore there will be no problems with them weight distribution when used on amateur cameras by type Nikon D5100, D3100 etc. These flashes are ideal for Nikon Coolpix cameras. True with SB-400 and the SB-300, you will not be able to experience all the benefits of external flash operation, such as focus assist, quick sync, or remote control. Attention: Nikon SB-300 flashes and Nikon SB-400 cannot be used with non-studded lenses (Ai-s lenses Soviet lenses etc.) and some cameras (Nikon D80, D70, the exact list is unknown).

Personal experience

I used almost all Nikon flash units, they all have their own characteristics. Recently, I have had two flashes in my service: SB-900 и SB-910. A very good option for amateur and uncomplicated professional shooting can be SB-700. If you ignore very much, then you have to choose from 900 \ 910 and 700tk.

I believe that Nikon SB-700 for 2017 is the best option for the price / quality criterion.
All Nikon SB-700 Prices

When choosing a flash and for general familiarization, I advise you to look in such sections on Radozhiva:

  1. Why do I need an external flash
  2. AF-assist spotlight with flashlight, flash diffuser, SU-4 flash control mode
  3. Increase flash range; thoughts on flash distance indication
  4. Manual flash power control; problem of exposure 1 \ 60 seconds; flash in S and M modes
  5. TTL working principle; benefits of manual flash mode
  6. Flash lock
  7. Nikon Flash Color Filters
  8. Simple built-in flash diffuser
  9. Aperture-priority auto for Nikon flashes and auto flash mode without TTL
  10. Command flash mode. Nikon CLS. Remote flash control
  11. Fast FP flash sync; how to use flash in the afternoon
  12. Flash and high ISO
  13. Leading number - is it that important?
  14. Nikon Flash Modeling Function
  15. RPT mode. Multiple flash

Conclusions:

Based on the tasks to be performed external flash, and their complexity, you can easily choose an external flash for Nikon cameras. I think flash is a great option SB-700which has a good price / quality ratio. Who faced flash for Nikon from third-party manufacturers, do not hesitate, leave your impressions of working with them in the comments.

All Nikon flash prices can be viewed here.

↓↓↓ like :) ↓↓↓ Thank you for your attention. Arkady Shapoval.

Add a comment: Lynx

 

 

Comments: 310 on the topic: Which flash to choose for Nikon cameras

  • Paul

    I have been using sb-700 for several months already, I took it based on your article. I am completely satisfied with the flash operation, even exceeded expectations. I bought up to a couple of Meike 951 fkr nikon (d5100) I ignite remotely for complex lighting, for example, back or side lighting. In such a tandem, the second flash "not native" is appropriate and even very. And as the main one, of course, 700th. I used the 900, it overheats very quickly and had to wait, while the 700 was ready for battle. These are the conclusions.

  • Anna

    Hello! I want to take a flash, it’s really used, there are 2 options sb 700 and sb 800, both in good condition, I still don’t know which one to choose better.

    • Pastor

      I would take a newer sat-700. I had three of these - no problem, they work fine. They are even suitable for reporting, although I overheated once in the dark at a corporate party, but there I clicked series for 15 minutes. It cooled down in 5 minutes and worked fine again.

      • Anna

        Pastor, thank you so much for the advice!

  • Kirill

    Hello, tell me please !!!
    now I use a Nikon sb-25 flash (I use it on a nikon d200 and sometimes on a radio synchronizer) ... - faced a serious drawback - slow recharging (even at minimum power), but on reportage photography this is critical!
    ... what kind of flash could be replaced (with a good rate of fire), but with a budget of up to 1000-1500g. ??

    • Kirill

      PS: with such a budget, it is assumed used ...)

      • BB

        The most budget-friendly option is to try adding a 5th battery (similar to the SB-800). After all, the flash is designed to work with batteries: 1,5 * 4 = 6 volts, and for batteries 1,2 * 4 = 4,8. If instead of 4 batteries we use 5, then we will get the coveted 6 volts of power.

        • Kirill

          Thank you) ... what does the 5th battery mean? where to? as? I've never just heard of such a thing…. and how to do it technically ...

          • BB

            In sb-800, instead of a cover, additional compartment for the 5th battery.
            But you definitely shouldn't put the fifth battery - you can burn the flash.

            But try to put good 'Ready-to-use' batteries instead of batteries - they can give a large current to the load (at the first moment of charging it can be 7-8 amperes!), Maybe your batteries are very 'sagging' under a high current.

          • BB

            here

            • Alexander

              All the time there is a fifth battery on the Sat 800 and everything works fine, but you don’t recommend installing it, then why did they make it additionally?

        • Kirill

          ... by the way, I use alkaline batteries

    • BB

      With such a budget - only BU and search. With a good rate of fire - this is prof. flashes: SB-900/910/800, or TOP Chinese, for example Nissin Di866, but they won't even fit into your budget.

      With an average rate of fire, for example, Nikon SB-700, or again the Chinese: Nissin Di700, Di622, Di600.

  • Vladimir

    For flashes, take normal batteries, from DYURASEL or ENERGYZER, or at least GP, and not alkaline bullshit, from PANASONIK and others, 5-10 rubles each, which are not designed for high inrush currents ...
    It is very useful to have at home, for monitoring batteries and batteries - a cheap, Chinese, digital tester (200 rubles, the size of a pack of cigarettes, they are in radio products and car dealers).
    Turn on the tester's current probe 10A and see what the batteries give in short circuit mode. The current should be more than 6 amperes and all are approximately the same. For batteries, the current may be weaker, but not less than 4 amperes. Then it will be possible to calmly go to reportage filming.
    And the voltage of freshly charged batteries will be 1,42 - 1,45 volts, not lower.

  • Lena

    Good hour! Help me please.
    At work, sometimes you have to photograph events with very poor lighting. Can you recommend any external flash on the d5200 no more than 15 thousand?
    Thank you

    • Dmitry

      Nikon SB-700

    • anonym

      Lena, please specify 15 thousand of what? Hryvnia, rubles, dollars, tugriks?

  • Jalonna

    Hello! Please tell me for the NIKON D3100 which flash can I buy for professional shooting?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Sb-700 or sb-910

  • Suitcase

    Dobrij večer. Pomagite s vibarom vspiski, u menja Nikon 5110.

    • BB

      If you speak Russian, then write in it, here is a Russian-language blog.
      And the answer to your question is given in the article. Read it.

      • Lynx

        He speaks Russian completely, just does not own a keyboard with a Russian layout.

  • Flash detector O_o

    Question to Understanding:

    Need a little light flash.
    It is necessary:
    - full manual control (required - power, preferably - zoom)
    - movable head (required - vertically, preferably - horizontally)
    - compactness (like the 400th, probably)
    Do not:
    - electronic control (TTL, HSS, even a slave)
    - power (HF 20 is enough with a margin)

    Everything I watch - either without a manual, or with a rigidly fixed head.

    • Lynx

      Meike from 300 models and above

      • Flash detector O_o

        Does 300 have a complete manual?
        Personally, I didn’t grope, but people said that only from the camera.

        • Lynx

          Make and not Sat, do not confuse. But at 300 the head still does not turn, but at the next mrdel it is already turning

          • Flash detector O_o

            I realized that make :)

            The next one is 310?

            • Lynx

              the next one is 320

              • Flash detector O_o

                In general, Nyssin 40 was taken.
                Meike tried it - in principle, a good crumpet, adequate to the price, but some things didn't like it.
                Especially stupid battery compartment.

  • Vladimir

    Good day! I would like to purchase a flash inexpensive for my Nikon D3000 camera, for weddings. Recommend a better ACHIEVER 260AF for Nikon or Nikon SB-20 Speedlite

  • Vladimir

    and this

  • Kirill

    Good evening! need advice:
    if you choose between nikon sb-600, metz-44 af-1, nissin di622 markII? - which is better to take (first of all, the speed of reloading and reliability are important (for reportage photography, weddings))?
    thank you in advance :)

    • Lynx

      SAT-900

      • Kirill

        “Witty” - all of them together don't cost as much as 900 ... and for those who choose between crops, do you recommend hasselblad?

        • Lynx

          Well, how would you decide for yourself what you need - checkers or go?
          And then you are like those dudes who ask to “show the settings” so that you can shoot “like that dude on 135/2” with a broken whale.

          • Kirill

            excuse me, but I didn’t seem to ask how to make studio lighting with the puff of the middle class ... I focus on the means that I can afford and asked "WHICH OF THE THREE SPECIFIC MODELS IS BETTER?"
            and if you cannot answer the question, then why insert your “five cents”?

          • Kirill

            ... by the way, as I understand by "broken whale" you mean puffs below 900, and "like that dude on 135/2" - these are weddings .... So, I took off 25 weddings with the SB-3, but on it I did not have enough reload speed and FP does not work, BUT I HAVE REMOVED and now I want a flash faster and more reliable ... that's why I'm asking about the choice between def. models
            ... and I hope for the answer of a KNOWING person, and not “someone who wants to show off”
            So the question for those who know remains valid))

          • Lynx

            no, it means that you go from three, at the present time quite poor wretches, requirements of at least half-top.
            And in terms of "crap" they are about the same and are very close to Sat25.
            So either moderate your appetite for requests, or earn yourself a normal flash.
            so the “knowledgeable passans” will answer you, of course, “on the case” - on a Zaporozhets, check or ten, you can enter the race, and those in the know will say the same thing as me.

            • Kirill

              my "appetites" are not your concern ... and what did you see top-end in the desire for puff to be a little faster than slow ???? ... and when I earn money for 900, the question will no longer arise to take her or nissin ...
              ... and it looks like a pity to increase your self-esteem by trying to humiliate others!

              • Lynx

                no sir, if you please answer for your words.
                You asked which of these fires is better for reporting and weddings (reliability and speed of reloading are important first).
                Here is your answer: of the puffs listed by you - not one is better to take for these tasks in general.
                If you asked “which one is simply better”, you would have been given a different answer.
                If you asked “I'm sitting on Sat25, I need at least something more powerful, but the budget is limited” - you would have been given a different answer too.
                But you asked exactly what you asked.
                And my self-esteem is none of your business.

            • Kirill

              First of all, I asked which one is better (in some respects)!
              the fact that the budget is limited is understandable for the chosen models!
              ... and judging by your words, if there is no full frame with the top puff, then not a photographer already ?? ... 900 was released in 2008 - before that, no one filmed weddings according to you ??

              • Lynx

                First, second. Let's not excuse "I didn't mean it".
                And do not ascribe to me your wet fantasies about the full frame, huh?
                ……
                and before it was 800tk for example. ;))

            • Kirill

              no excuses, I asked what I asked, but you suffered somewhere to the side!
              and what has to do with wet fantasies, this is your position that if not top, then nothing ...
              AND ENOUGH TO CLUTTER THE FORUM ... there is nothing to say in essence - it is better to be silent!

              • anonym

                Come on, Cyril, do not feed the troll! It is absolutely clear that you will not find anything intelligible from Ryska. But the list of applicants could be slightly expanded towards the used SB-700. Both FP and CLS are present in it and TTL is adequate. With good batteries, it’s enough to remove it and take off the wedding (from personal experience)

              • Lynx

                they told you the essence in the first post.

              • Alexey

                "Lynx
                07.02.2016/22/12 at XNUMX:XNUMX Reply
                SB-900 ″
                ================
                Ryska, as always, is not in the subject. What do you want from a troll?
                SB 900 is a super buggy product from Nikon, suffers from congenital diseases of overheating, refusal and other joys.
                Nikon naturally released a modified version - SB -910, with a cosmic price.
                there is no special meaning in it, except if the money is immeasurable and the fingers are fan-shaped.
                Today, the Chinese make excellent puffs, for example, one of the newest - Yongnuo YN685 Wireless TTL - compare with Nikon SB-910, while yongnu costs about $ 100)))) and there are also mettsy, nisin and others.

                “Come on, Kirill, don't feed the troll! It is quite clear that you will not hear anything intelligible from Ryska. "
                =====================
                100%.

    • Maugli

      And if you look for used Sat 800?

      • Dim

        Metz do not advise, I have 44 and 52. From time to time they give powerful impulses, I don’t know if all step-parents behave like that or not. At 52, automatic zoom does not work.

        • Oleg

          some garbage. I have 52 and 58. No problem. Maybe the zoom is not automatic?

    • Oleg

      Metz-58

  • Yar

    What about the Vivitar 273? It is still the time of film cameras (it also works on two 9V batteries), then most likely there will be a kirdyk digital camera?

    • Yar

      on the flash, the voltage between the central contact and the side (hook under the camera) when ready to fire is about 65 Volts ... I don't like it))

      • BB

        It will burn the control transistor / thyristor of the device - this is at best.
        It is necessary to modernize the flash circuit a little - to lower the voltage on the synchrocontact, then safely use it on any modern device.

    • Lynx

      will be.

  • Vesta

    I choose between Nissin Di-866 for Nikon and Nikon Speedlight SB-700.
    Knowledgeable people, tell me which one is better ?!

    • Flash detector O_o

      The Nissin I have tried have a rather peculiar handling. Something can be changed only on the donut, something - both on the donut and on the camera, some - only on the camera.
      I had no complaints about the quality of Nissin, but the controls didn’t seem convenient.
      The native menu is more thoughtful and intuitive.
      HMV, if you can take your own, you need to use it.

      • Vesta

        Thanks for the opinion! And what is the NIV?

        • Flash detector O_o

          In my opinion :)

    • Alexey

      did not work with nisins. There were two Nikon SB 700s, one stopped working after 14 months, the second began to freeze after a year and a half.
      switched to Yongnuo, very satisfied! )))

      • Flash detector O_o

        Aw, maladez! :)))

        Six months for a crumpet is a replacement period. For a new one.

      • Alexey Polyntsev

        How much do the Chinese pay? I have been plowing Nikon Sat 910 for 2 years now. No problem

    • anonym

      It seems to me that Nikon will be better than Nisin, in TTL mode Nikon works better, Nisin is worse.

  • Peter Sh.

    I have sb-700 and two more Yonguo in use. In general, I do not see the difference in lighting.
    Not a single one without fuss and trial shots immediately gives an optimal result.

    And most of all I use a simple manual, with an umbrella. In this case, there is no one else to blame except yourself.

  • Anastasia

    Hello. Tell me. There are d5200. It is necessary to shoot competitions in rhythmic gymnastics in large halls. Tell me about the settings? And which flash to choose 700 910 or YONGNUO SPEEDLITE YN568EX?

    • BB

      SB-900/910 will be the best choice, perhaps SB-700 will suffice. The Chinese suffer from impulse instability, they make mistakes more often, I do not recommend it for shooting sports.
      The settings will depend on many factors: the illumination of the room, the lens (FR, aperture), shooting distance.

      Most often I shoot indoor sports in M ​​mode, shutter speed 1/160 - 1/250 (X-Sync), aperture - depending on the number of people - singles, couple, or group - from f / 4 to F / 8, ISO - depending on the available light, shooting distance and aperture - from 400 to 3200 (on your camera it is better not to use values ​​higher than 2000). The flash does the rest for you.

      All of the above is deduced 'with his own hand', by trial and error. Take advantage of the advice, but nothing can replace your personal experience.

  • Ruslan

    Hello ! who understands the topic deeper answer! I'm interested in how to choose a puff boo !? that is, what is the duration of the flash? does the lamp burn out there or what ?? I want used for weddings! I’m eyeing the sb-800! Who will tell in more detail what to look for when choosing !? Thanks everyone for the answer!

    • BB

      It all depends on the operating conditions: for example (offhand) a lamp can make 200'000 puffs at minimum power, and will continue to work, while another photographer will blow the lamp after 5000 puffs, since he uses it at maximum power.
      Look at the appearance (fumes on the lamp, a fused reflector or glass, signs of falling). Most often, a lamp flies from the branded fires, and the electronics are pretty reliable. Replacing the lamp is inexpensive.

      I do not recommend the SB-800: for a quick recharge, it needs a 5th battery, it looks not so hot, you can also hook it.

      Look for either the SB-700 or SB-900/910.

      • Valery A.

        It is unlikely that the possibility of installing the 5th element is a harmful sign, it is also said to be more powerful than 4 with 900. It is used mainly with 4. Functionally cooler than 700s, at the level of 900s.

        • BB

          “On paper” - yes, it is more powerful, but the difference of 4 units in real conditions is difficult to notice. But the 800's zoom is much less, and when used in conjunction with optics longer than 105 mm, the 800's power will be spent "by".
          The 5th battery is needed firstly to reduce the charging time (because at the same current the batteries give more power), and secondly to extend the operating time from one set. The 5th battery does not in any way affect the pulse power.
          Well, the old one, it was designed for film cameras, the beginning of sales - autumn 2003.
          To find it in an unkilled state - you still need to try (I myself was looking for a film player - I did not find it for adequate money).

  • Ruslan

    Like 700ka weaker than 800ki! At 900ku I do not pull within your means! And how much is a 900ka reload faster than 800?

    • BB

      And where are you going to puff, that you need huge power?
      The difference in power (according to the nameplate) between 700 and 800 is 1,35 times. Those. to get the same exposure at maximum flash output when using a 700-ki, you need to raise Iso 1,35 times, or open the aperture half a stop.

      The recharge time depends on the pulse power and the quality of the batteries. For fast recharging, you need to take 'Ready-to-Use' batteries, because they are capable of delivering a large current in a short time. Of the tested ones - Eneloop and Panasonic, but sometimes the Chinese are quite good (in Ukraine I took ExtraDigital - the capacity is lower than the declared one, but in terms of price / real_capacity - good, the current is good, the charge is kept for a long time).

      For an adequate comparison of the recharge time, you need to check at full pulse power, on the same set of batteries. Accordingly, you need to have both flashes available. I have Nikon SB-900 and Nissin Di866. The recharge time is almost the same.

  • Ruslan

    Can anyone write a thread more specifically about the recharge time at 800k and the recharge time at 900k?

  • Ruslan

    Guys and another question, if I look, you can ask for thanks!)) In general, at first I was thinking of taking a Chinese! There is such a company SHANNY there are opinions that the best fake, so to speak! But here’s how that forums read the latest reviews and something is also glitchy at times a lottery, so to speak! The question in general is this! The price of a good Chinese as the price of 800ki in perfect condition! Who will say so to speak in this comparison if the goal is commercial shooting of corporate events in weddings and in the studio! ??? Thanks guys for the answers! And all with the holidays!

    • BB

      The “original” will always be better than the Chinese (especially the little-known ones) - both in ergonomics and in pulse stability.
      For responsible events, it’s generally good to have a reserve (for example, a Chinese as a reserve to a company brand).

      For a studio, it is worth getting studio lights, otherwise the point of a studio? All studio light modifiers (softboxes, curtains, cymbals, etc., except for umbrellas) are designed for studio lights, and they need a lot of power (well, except for a subject - for it and the built-in flash may be enough).

    • Jury

      for the studio Shanny SN910EX-RF (Nikon) - a very good option, because has a built-in radio synchronizer receiver. For reportage - it has a zoom up to 200mm, rubber seals, even on the shoe, imitating (or really providing?) Weather protection, high-speed synchronization, a convenient lock. For $ 700, you can build a set of 4 pins and one controller. I can't say about reliability and real weather protection - I haven't used it a lot yet, but it still works.

  • Ruslan

    Yuri, by the way, here on the forum one famous about shanny reviews like lottery! )) That is, the people at least the one that wrote was not satisfied!

    • Jury

      new flashes, so anything can be. My first impression of the Shanny SN910EX-RF flash is slightly better than that of the YN-568EX, in everything, even in the absence of the smell of plastic, and the built-in radio channel control is generally superb. You can write on the forums, just like on the fence, believe it or not - everyone decides for himself :). I need a flash for my infrequent hobbyist off-camera use, so Shanny is the perfect budget option. Ps native flashes are probably better and more reliable.

  • Ruslan

    By the way, about the working angle! at 900ke 17mm wide at 800ke 24! It turns out if you remove the vignette at 18mm 800 ??? Or not so! ?? thanks for the answer!

    • Valery A.

      And so and not so. If you lower the built-in diffuser, the angle increases by 17mm FR. Didn't you read the instructions? It's 24mm:

      • Valery A.

        Same with diffuser:

  • Alice

    Good afternoon) I can’t find sensible test photos on the Internet with a sat 500 Nikon on the Internet, please tell me if it is enough for shooting in a night club, for example (on d5100) or is it better to choose something more expensive? thanks in advance)

  • Vladimir

    Good afternoon!
    There is a Nikon 5100 camera and a Meike Speedlite MK-431 flash with a hot shoe for Canon.
    Will both devices be compatible in TTL mode if I use the adapter between the contacts directly?
    Or electronics will not allow?

  • Bach

    Good day, I’m all worried about vibora spalakhuyki. I am inserting 5 kopiyok i zvogo opita about nihon nikon and nikon bula. I have 400 money in me, I recommend it is more economical, I have 700 money in me, I have less money for me за за є за за є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є є ’ . Regarding the Sat 600 matches, the best yak in terms of dimensions is so ı in terms of parameters, but, in a bag of functions, there’s no need for an amator, there’s no need for a professional, because 5000 € of wikidata isn’t necessary. Yak until Sat 900 , then look for the victorious її in the pair of yak unit donors, the Konik machine. I have a worse complaint for Sat 910, I think I’ll come back to nothing and buy another collection of Sat 5000-ku, so I can also match the size and functionality. In the meantime, I’m starting everything at the vibrator. I recommend Sat 500, do not regret it !!!!

  • Ravil

    Arkady, friends, hello everyone again.
    I have been shooting for a long time on the Nik-f100 and Nik-f6, for the Nik-f100 I bought the SB-28, with the flash I shoot very rarely. Recently I bought Nik-Df thanks to its frenzied ISO, however, sometimes it is necessary to highlight and freeze a dynamic scene on it.
    Question:
    With modern flashlights, everything is clear, but does anyone know at what settings Nik-Df will work correctly with the SB-28? I shoot either puff on the ceiling with a softbox on the flash, or, if further away, on the forehead and also with a softbox on the flash.
    Thank you.

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