Every day I get questions like 'which digital SLR camera to buy Nikon'. In this article I will share my experience on this matter. I have shot with almost all Nikon DSLRs with different lenses and in different conditions. Some things in choosing a camera for beginners may not be obvious, but believe me, in this article, I have thought out everything as much as possible and adjusted it as much as possible for the optimal and truthful options for choosing.
Popular Nikon cameras
To begin, I advise you to understand what is the camera forthen you need to determine the most suitable class of cameras that are suitable for the selected tasks.
All Nikon digital SLR cameras are very easily divided into 4 classes:
- Amateur cameras (entry level) - these cameras are aimed at people who just need to get a high-quality photo without delving into the subtleties and settings of the camera. These are the so-called cameras - 'pointed and took off '. Most often, amateur cameras are best suited to people who don't do photography professionally, they just want a good camera for home, leisure, travel, family, nature, etc.. The main requirements for such a camera are ease, simplicity in management, reasonable price.
- Advanced Amateur Cameras (Advanced) - these cameras have advanced functionality with a large number of specific settings that can be dealt with for a long time. These cameras are suitable for advanced amateurs who at least basic knowledge of camera settings either want to get a good potential for mastering photography skills. These cameras are noticeably more expensive, heavier, but still with the same intuitive controls as entry-level cameras.
- Professional cameras (cameras of the upper price range) - these cameras are created for people who are engaged in photography professionally, they know a lot about photography and are not afraid of manual settings. Typically, these cameras have a much better body, functionality and support additional extensions and capabilities. These cameras are not suitable for amateurs as do not have automatic shooting modes and have a specific professional management with a small number of tips.
- Flagship professional cameras (TOP cameras) - these are cameras with exorbitant workmanship and functionality, are needed exclusively for professional purposes. These are the cameras that everyone else is equal to, like a 'flagship'. These cameras are not suitable for beginners and hobbyists.
Nikon itself makes the distribution even easier, only professional and amateur cameras exist on the official Nikon website, but wikipedia also divides Nikon cameras into 4 levels. By the way, the words 'camera', 'camera' and 'camera' in this article, and in many others, mean the same thing. View a graphical distribution of cameras by category can here.
Basic separation of Nikon interchangeable lens cameras
For beginners and lovers I recommend entry-level Nikon amateur cameras.
A camera is a complex technical device, and technology does not stand still. It so happened that in my rating cameras from Nikon can be traced clear correlation of camera output - the newer the camera, the better it is. For 2017, following this logic and other details, the best amateur camera is Nikon D5600, this can be seen from the nameplate below.
When choosing a camera, I do not recommend paying much attention to the number of megapixels, in most cases a large number of megapixels is not in demand and even unnecessarily (these issues are covered in more detail here, here и here). Once again, in big letters - think about the fact that megapixels in amateur-grade DSLR cameras do not solve anything at all.
Each Nikon camera model is highlighted by a link that leads to its review, which describes all of its features.
The question of choice is very much limited by your budget.. I recommend buying a camera that fits into your budget based on the ratings below:
| Model | Rating | Exit time | The number of MP | Speed c / s | Point focus. | Video | Comment |
| D5600 | 1 | November 2015 | 24 | 5 (4) | 39 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | Very nice amateur cam |
| D5500 | 2 | January 2015 | 24 | 5 (4) | 39 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | A very good option for an amateur camera |
| D5300 | 3 | November 2013 | 24 | 5 (4) | 39 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | A very good option for an amateur camera |
| D5200 | 4 | November 2012 | 24 | 5 | 39 | Full HD 60i with autofocus | Great option for an amateur camera |
| D3300 | 5 | January 2014 | 24 | 5 | 11 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | Great option for an amateur camera |
| D3500 | 6 | August 2018 | 24 | 5 | 11 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | Great option for an amateur camera |
| D3400 | 7 | August 2016 | 24 | 5 | 11 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | Great option for an amateur camera |
| D5100 | 8 | April 2011 | 16,2 | 4 | 11 | Full HD 30p with autofocus | Good option with rotary display |
| D3200 | 9 | 24,2 | 4 | 11 | Full HD 30p with autofocus | Good option, no rotary display | |
| D3100 | 10 | December 2010 | 14,2 | 3 | 11 | Full HD 24fps with autofocus | A good option without a rotary display |
| D5000 | 11 | June 2009 | 12,3 | 4 | 11 | HD 720p, no autofocus | Bad video quality |
| D3000 | 12 | December 2009 | 10,2 | 3 | 11 | No | Old matrix, does not work well in dark conditions |
| D60 | 13 | March 2008 | 10,2 | 3 | 3 | No | Old matrix, does not work well in dark conditions, few focus points |
| D40x | 14 | May 2007 | 10,2 | 3 | 3 | No | Old matrix, does not work well in dark conditions, few focus points |
| D40 | 15 | December 2006 | 6,1 | 2,5 | 3 | No | Slow shooting speed, low ISO, few focus points |
| D50 | 16 | July 2005 | 6,1 | 2,5 | 5 | No | There is a focus motor. Very small display, very old camera |
All these cameras are cameras. Nikon DX (cameras with a cropped sensor format APS-C). All amateur cameras except Nikon D50, do not have a built-in focus motor and should use only lenses to achieve auto focus Nikon AF-S, AF-I, AF-Por lenses third party manufacturersthat have a built-in focus motor. Also, all amateur cameras except Nikon D50, do not have an additional monochrome display for quick setup of basic functions. And yet these cameras do not have an additional front selector (disk), which on more advanced models is located under the power button. Nor do they have buttons for previewing the depth of field, and their built-in flash cannot remotely control external flashes in automatic mode. These cameras do not have a mode high speed sync with flashes for shooting at extremely short excerpt. Most of these functions are not in demand for the amateur and are not particularly critical when choosing a camera.
If there are financial constraints, then good budget option there will be a camera Nikon D3500, which I recommend as Nikon's first DSLR for beginners and amateurs who don't plan on getting into photography in the future. Although she is ranked lower than D3300but it is still available for sale.
It's important: The era of SLR cameras is gone. Mirrorless cameras are all the rage right now. Nikon has a few mirrorless cropped cameras of the Nikon DX series.
All Nikon DX lenses for mirrorless cameras with Nikon Z mount and APS-C sensor
- Nikon Nikkor ZDX 24 mm 1:1.7 [May 2023]
- Nikon Nikkor ZDX 12-28 mm 1:3.5-5.6PZ VR [April 2023]
- Nikon Nikkor ZDX 16-50 mm 1:3.5-6.3VR [October 2019]
- Nikon Nikkor ZDX 18-140 mm 1:3.5-6.3VR [October 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor ZDX 50-250 mm 1:4.5-6.3VR [October 2019]
For Nikon Z DX (APS-C), there are third-party autofocus lenses:
- felttrox: 13/1.4, 23/1.4, 27 /1.2, 33/1.4, 56/1.4, 56/1.7, 75 /1.2
- Sigma: 16/1.4, 30/1.4, 56/1.4
- TTArtisan: 27/2.8, 35/1.8, 56/1.8
- yongnuo: 11/1.8, 50/1.8
- Brightin Star 50 / 1.4
- Meike 55 / 1.4
Cameras Nikon Z DX (APS-C)
- Nikon z50 [October 2019, AliExpress]
- Nikon Z fc [June 2021, black/silver, AliExpress]
- Nikon z30 [June 2022, AliExpress]
Among advanced amateur SLR cameras, the best is full frame Nikon D780. If you don’t want to mess with the full frame, then Nikon is the best option among cropped cameras. D7500.
| Model | Rating | Exit time | The number of MP | Speed c / s | Point focus. | Video | Comment |
| D780 (FX) | 1 | January 2020 | 24,2 | 7 (12) | 51 | 4K 30p with autofocus | The best option for an advanced amateur camera. Full frame. |
| D750 (FX) | 2 | September 2014 | 24,3 | 6,5 | 51 | Full HD 60p with autofocus | A very good option for an advanced amateur camera. Full frame. |
| D610 (FX) | 3 | October 2013 | 24,3 | 6,0 | 39 | Full HD 30p with autofocus | A very good option for an advanced amateur camera. Full frame. |
| D600 (FX) | 4 | November 2012 | 24,3 | 5,5 | 39 | Full HD 30p with autofocus | A good option for an advanced amateur camera. Full frame. |
| D7500 | 5 | April 2017 | 20,2 | 8 | 51 | 4K auto focus | The best option for a cropped advanced amateur camera. |
| D7200 | 6 | March 2015 | 24,0 | 6 (7) | 51 | Full HD 30p (DX) and 60p (1.3x) with autofocus | A very good option for a cropped advanced amateur camera. |
| D7100 | 7 | February 2013 | 24,0 | 6 (7) | 51 | Full HD 30p (DX) and 60i (1.3x) with autofocus | A good option for a cropped advanced amateur camera. |
| D7000 | 8 | November 2010 | 16,2 | 6 | 39 | Full HD 24p with autofocus | A good option for a cropped camera |
| D90 | 9 | October 2008 | 12,3 | 4,5 | 11 | HD 720p, no autofocus | Good option, badly shoots video |
| D80 | 10 | September 2006 | 10,2 | 3 | 11 | No | Old camera with a good feature set |
| D70s | 11 | April 2005 | 6,1 | 3 | 5 | No | Morally obsolete camera, has a small display, few focus points |
| D70 | 12 | January 2004 | 6,1 | 3 | 5 | No | Morally obsolete camera, has a small display, few focus points |
Advanced amateur cameras Nikon D70, D70s, D80, D90, D7000, D7100, D7200, D7500 are cameras Nikon DX. Cameras Nikon D600, D610, D750, D780 are full-length, Nikon class FX. Unlike amateur cameras, all advanced amateur cameras have a built-in focus motor and can use non-motorized, sometimes cheaper type optics AF (optics AF S, AF-I, AF-P may also be suitable). These cameras have a monochrome display for quick setup of all basic functions, an additional selector under the shutter button, a depth of field preview button, and their built-in flash can remotely control other flashes automatically. All advanced amateur cameras except Nikon D70, D70s have very useful high speed sync function when using external flash units.
Attention: physical matrix size all-all Nikon DX cameras are the same. Physical matrix size all Nikon FX cameras, too, are the same. Matrix size Nikon FX is 2.25 times larger than Nikon DX. This is described in more detail in the section Fx / dx.
A good option for an advanced camera would be a model Nikon D7100, which I recommend as the first Nikon SLR camera for advanced users who want to get a huge amount of functionality for a not-so-large amount of money. There is also focus motor and nice control fast flash sync, a huge 3-inch display, the ability to control flashes through Nikon CLS, Live View mode and high-quality video shooting.
About the video: auto focus on all Nikon SLR cameras does not work well or not very well when shooting video. This is because the DSLR mechanism is not well adapted to focusing with the mirror up, which is required by video mode. Usually focusing when recording video occurs by contrast, and not using the camera's phase sensors. You need to be prepared for the fact that autofocus speed will sometimes be hundreds of times worse than on conventional compact cameras. If the speed and accuracy of focusing for video is very important, then I recommend considering buying mirrorless camera cameras Nikon Z6, Nikon Z7, Nikon z50 etc..
I specifically do not affect professional cameras such as Nikon D500, D300s, D5, D4s, D850, D810, Df - because there are very slippery moments among the choice of a professional line camera. For professionals, this will be interesting performance plate.
Mirrorless cameras with Nikon Z mount
Nikon now has full-frame mirrorless cameras Nikon Z6 and Nikon Z7, as well as a small fleet of lenses for them. With these cameras, you can use lenses from SLR cameras using the Nikon FTZ adapter. If there are a lot of problems with accurate information, it’s better to ask me about these cameras in the comments.
It's important: The era of SLR cameras is gone. Mirrorless cameras are all the rage right now.
Full frame Nikon Z mount cameras
- Nikon z5 [July 2020, AliExpress]
- Nikon z6 [August 2018]
- Nikon z6 ii [October 2020, AliExpress]
- Nikon z7 [August 2018]
- Nikon z7 ii [October 2020, AliExpress]
- Nikon z8 [May 2023, AliExpress]
- Nikon z9 [October 2021, AliExpress]
- Nikon Zf [September 2023]
List of all 'Nikon Nikkor Z' full-frame lenses for mirrorless cameras with Nikon Z mount
Fixes:
- Nikon Nikkor Z 20 mm 1:1.8 S [February 2020, Aliexpress Nikon Store]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 24 mm 1:1.8 S [September 2019, AliExpress]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 26 mm 1:2.8 [January 2023]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 28 mm 1:2.8 [October 2021, AliExpress]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 28 mm 1:2.8 SE [June 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 35 mm 1:1.8 S [August 2018, AliExpress]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 40 mm 1:2 [September 2021, AliExpress]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 40 mm 1:2 SE [November 2022]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 50 mm 1:1.2 S [September 2020]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 50 mm 1:1.8 S [August 2018, AliExpress]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 50 mm 1:2.8 MC [June 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 58 mm 1:0.95 S Nod [October 2019]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 85 mm 1:1.2 S [January 2023]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 85 mm 1:1.8 S [July 2019, AliExpress]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 105 mm 1:2.8 S VR MC [June 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 135 mm 1:1.8 S full [September 2023]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 400 mm 1:2.8 S VR TC [January 2022]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 400 mm 1:4.5 S VR [June 2022, AliExpress]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 600 mm 1:4 S VR TC [November 2022]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 600 mm 1:6.3 S VR PF [October 2023]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 800 mm 1:6.3 S VR PF [April 2022]
Zuma:
- Nikon Nikkor Z 14-24 mm 1:2.8 S [September 2020, Aliexpress Nikon Store]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 14-30 mm 1:4 S [January 2019, AliExpress]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 17-28 mm 1:2.8 [September 2022, AliExpress]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 24-50 mm 1: 4-6.3 [July 2020, AliExpress]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 24-70 mm 1:4 S [August 2018, AliExpress]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 24-70 mm 1:2.8 S [February 2019, AliExpress]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 24-120 mm 1:4 S [October 2021, AliExpress]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 24-200 mm 1: 4-6.3 VR [February 2020, AliExpress]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 28-75 mm 1:2.8 [December 2021, AliExpress]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 28-400 mm 1: 4-8 VR [March 2024]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 70-180 mm 1:2.8 [June 2023]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 70-200 mm 1:2.8 S VR [January 2020, AliExpress]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 100-400 mm 1: 4.5-5.6 S VR [October 2021]
- Nikon Nikkor Z 180-600 mm 1: 5.6-6.3 VR [June 2023]
Third party autofocus full-frame lenses for Nikon Z mount
- felttrox: 20/2.8, 24/1.8, 28/1.8, 35/1.8, 50/1.8, 85/1.8
- yongnuo: 35/2, 50/1.8, 85/1.8
- Tamron: 28-75/2.8G2, 35-150/2-2.8, 70-300/4.5-6.3, 150-500/5-6.7
- Meike: 50/1.8, 85/1.8, 85/1.4
- TTArtisan: 32/2.8
- 7Artisans: 50/1.8
- AstrHori: 85/1.8
- laowa: 10/2.8
Equipment
Usually the camera is sold separately from the lens, this is called bodyand sometimes the camera is sold with some kind of lens, this is called Kit, and the supplied lens is called 'whale lens'. Attention: take pictures with one camera body You can’t take pictures always with a lens.
Important: usually, if you buy a camera with a whale lens (Kit kit), then such a kit will cost less than buying a camera and lens separately.
Native (whale) lens
There are lenses really different for different purposes and for different tasks. Usually, the camera comes with a universal standard lens that can be used for basic photographic tasks. With a standard lens, you can shoot landscapes, and close-up objects, and portraits - almost anything. Usually the most common lens is Nikon 18-55 / 3.5-5.6 (one of 6 possible modifications) Instead of this lens, I highly recommend purchasing a kit with one of the following candidates:
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-105 mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-140 mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200 mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical
The above lenses are suitable for all Nikon DX cameras.. In online stores, the names of lenses can be specified differently, but they can be easily determined by the value of the focal length, for example, 18-105, 18-140, 18-200, etc.
Very important: choosing a lens is just as important as choosing a camera. The lens is sometimes so important that it is better to take a cheaper / simpler camera, but with a higher quality lens. Take my advice - instead of buying and using a camera with a lens Nikon 18-55 / 3.5-5.6 (or any modification of it), look for the recommended options mentioned above.
If you're on a budget, the best versatile, fast, professional Nikon DX lenses are Nikon 17-55mm f / 2.8G ED IF AF-S DX Nikkor и Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 16-80mm 1: 2.8-4E N ED VR Nano Crystal Coat SWM IF Aspherical. ask note to the fact that this is purely my recommendations and in each individual case the recommendations can be very different.
What do all these mean incomprehensible coded designations in the names of the lenses can take a look here.
List of all professional lenses for Nikon DX cameras can be found here (there are 4 of them).
The choice of other non-universal lenses requires a separate large article, but in addition to the full-time (universal whale) lens, I recommend getting a fast, discrete fixed lens. Such a lens does not know how to zoom, but it has a very high aperture. Huge aperture will allow you to shoot without problems in poor lighting conditions, control the depth of field (create blurred background in photos), create a bokeh effect, get brighter and more vibrant colors in photos. In good light, such a lens allows you to shoot at a very short shutter speed, thereby 'freezing' objects in motion.
Recommended list of fast fixed lenses:
- Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical (for any Nikon DX cameras)
- Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical (for any cameras)
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (for any cameras with a focus motor)
Usually the first such lens is the so-called 'half a ruble'(the last two in the list). The entire lineup of fifty kopecks for Nikon cameras can be found here.
You will find a complete list of all Nikon DX lenses. here.
Thoughts on optional external flash find in the section Which flash to choose for Nikon cameras?
How to check the camera upon purchase is described in the section 'Camera check'.
Recommendations for choosing a Canon camera can be found in the 'What kind of amateur Canon SLR camera to buy'.
Nikon or Canon? I have touched upon this question in a series of articles on this subject: time, two, three.
My experience
I had many Nikon cameras at my disposal: D700 (about 4 years) D90 (3 years), D80 (2 years), D40 (2 years), D200 (1 year), Nikon D70s (half a year) Nikon D70 (half a year) Nikon D100 (half a year) Canon 350D (2 years), Canon 450D (year), Canon 300D (half a year), Canon EOS 5D (1 year), Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro (about a year) Nikon AF N8008s (2 years), many cameras of other brands (like Sony a7). Due to the fact that I am writing camera reviews and work professional photographer, then in my hands I held and shot almost all models of Nikon and Canon SLR cameras.
Over the past 2-3 years, everything orders I shoot on Nikon D700 or Nikon D610 (I take from friends). Also i like Sony a7which I use for the needs of this site. For home in 2015, I bought myself Nikon D40which I love very much for a pleasant color performance. In 2017, I bought and Nikon D70s, which is not a pity to use in any conditions, the gallery of images from this camera is located just below. In 2018, in fact, I got a gift Nikon D100, pictures from her can be looked here. I do not hesitate to shoot on old cameras, as I know for sure that the final result depends more on other factors (described here).
From personal experience I can add that choosing a camera is not an easy matter, it is especially difficult to choose the first camera, then everything becomes simpler and choosing something else becomes very, very simple. Take my advice - don't chase megapixels, they practically don't solve anything. I wish everyone to find exactly 'their very best camera', and also remember that important how to take pictures, but not by what means.
Alternative versions at the lowest price
If you have a urge to take pictures in your blood, and the budget for the purchase of an SLR camera is very limited, I recommend looking in the direction of used cameras. In used cameras are nothing wrong. For example, for only $ 100 can buy used Nikon D40 (or D50, or D70, or D70s, or D80) with a whale lens Nikon 18-55mm f / 3.5-5.6GII ED AF-S DX Nikkor. Even such an old DSLR will in many ways be better than some modern digital soap dishes and even advanced cameras with interchangeable lenses, such as Nikon 1 J1.
Nikon D40 body on the secondary market can be found for 60-100 ye - this is one of the cheapest SLR cameras of all time. For 80-100 USD you can find a pretty super-zoom to it Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical or Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM IF Aspherical and shoot for your own pleasure.
My practice has shown that The following models may be the cheapest and most functional.:
- cameras with a focus motor: Nikon D200, Nikon D80, Nikon D70s, Nikon D70, Nikon D50, Nikon D100
- cameras without focus motor Nikon D3000, Nikon D60, Nikon D40x, Nikon D40
- focus motor lenses: universal zoom lens Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-135m 1: 3.5-5.6G ED SWM IF Aspherical, versatile zoom lens Nikon AF-S Nikkor 18-70mm 1: 3.5-4.5G ED DX SWM IF Aspherical, fast creative fixed lens YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8 (YN50mm F1.8N for Nikon cameras), fast, versatile fixed lens YONGNUO 35mm 1: 2 (YN35mm F2N for Nikon cameras)
- lens without focus motor (only suitable for cameras with focus motor) - fast creative prime lens Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (any of the versions: MKI 165g, MKI 210g, MKII-MIJ, MKII N.J., MKII MIC, MKIII)
On this link you can see my picture gallery obtained with a fairly old camera Nikon D70 and a fast fifty-fifty lens Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor (MKII, Nikon JAPAN).
All pictures were taken with Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8, MKII, NJ (NIKON JAPAN) и Nikon D70. Enlarge Image or go to large format photo gallery.
On this link You can see my gallery of pictures obtained with the help of an old man Nikon D100 (Nikon's first digital SLR camera in a classic case) paired with a fast fifty-pound lens Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8 (MKII, MADE IN CHINA).
All pictures were taken with Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8, MKII version, MIC (MADE IN CHINA) и Nikon D100. Enlarge Image or go to the gallery with large format photographs.
Imagine what can be removed on a better modern technology?
You will find many examples of inexpensive autofocus photo equipment among my galleries. here.
You can still get old soviet fast lens, such as MS Helios-81H 2/50 or any other inexpensive manual lenssuch as Nikon Nikkor-SC Auto 1: 1.4 f = 50mm и study just super-awesome shots, however, will have to lose auto focus.
Well, if you are a real ninja photographer and want to use some unusually stunning DSLR sword for a small amount of money, then I highly recommend that you look into my article Legends go to battle.
And that's not all, if you really want to shoot on full camera, then you can organize such a pleasure for yourself for just $ 240. How? Read in the section 'Full Frame for $ 240'.
If you’re not comfortable with Nikon amateur cameras, you can take a look a complete list of all Nikon Central Control Unitswhere you can find the top Nikon D1 professional cameras, D1h, D1x, D2h, D2x, D2hs, D2xs, D3, D3s, D3x, D4, D4s, D5, and top-tier cameras Nikon D100, D200, D300, D300s, D500, D700, D800,D800E, D810, D810a, D850. By the way, Nikon has also created a very interesting camera with a retro body design and without the ability to shoot video - Nikon DF :).
Results
Progress does not stand still, basically, the newer the camera, the better it is, but even with relatively old SLR cameras you can get wonderful image quality, since the photo quality affects not only the camera.
To choose the best option, just decide on the budget and use my rating of cameras in the plate.
I am constantly updating and adding to this article. This article was last edited on February 29, 2024.
I don’t understand anything and I was lost in the choice!
Just tell me the budget that you are willing to spend on the camera and the purpose of buying the camera (what you will shoot for and in what) in the comments and they will tell you the best option. Anyway, ask any of your questions in the comments under this article (the site does NOT require absolutely no registration). You can consult me directly on these contacts.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Good day Arkady. I am a layman in the photo, but I have a Nikon D5000 camera. Which advise a budget zoom lens with a wide angle. On the obligatory nikor. Thank you for the enormous work done, for people like me, this is the most useful information.
If you have a stock (ie kit) 18-55 or 18-105 lens, then it has a wonderful wide angle. If not, then any 18-105, 18-140, 18-200. The latter is from Sigma with quite adequate characteristics. A super-budget option and not particularly bad at the same time - the native Nikon 18-70. If you need more than 18 mm, then write.
Thank you, well, try to see there. If that doesn’t work, I’ll write it. And then all hands did not reach and the device was. So I'm a curve.
Hello, Arkady. Ck frames fit in d3500 buffer when shooting in JPEG?
Good, Arkady.
I want to replace my D5100 with 35 \ 2.0 and 18-105 \ 3,5-5,6 with full-frame.
Due to the limited budget, I look towards the cheapest options, like the D610, D750.
Question: what full-frame would you recommend for a photo (I almost never shoot a video)?
Will it be possible to put any of these lenses on it, and what do you advise to buy in addition / replacement?
Camera - which one you have enough money for. The more expensive the better in this case. 35 / 2.0 which one do you have? The 18-105 is not meant to be full frame, but it can still be used on these cameras, but it makes no sense.
Between the D610 and D750 of the significant difference, only the number of autofocus points and the rotary screen in theory.
35ka rather 1,8, wrong. Like this (Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f / 1.8G)
Most likely I will assemble and replace it with the Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f / 1.8G to keep the FR favorite.
I also look towards Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-120mm f / 4G ED VR or Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR for the station wagon.
I can’t decide in any way whether it’s better to take off 24-120, is it worth a smaller margin of FR?
Even if you drive an Audi A6, you still want something more.
I was looking for an article where to put my thoughts, here is a suitable place.
Upgrade or transition from D7200 to D750, my thoughts and impressions. First, let's see this link. https://camspex.com/ru.comparison.php?camera1=Nikon+D7200&camera2=Nikon+D750
in which you can see what is the advantage of the D750 over the D7200 or the FX over the DX, this is twice the ISO with the same SNR - the signal-to-noise ratio at the output. Otherwise, where it is better, where it is worse with almost equal functionality. Looking at this, you come to the conclusion that you can get the same crop quality by compensating for high ISOs, in particular, by increasing the aperture by 1,41 (ex. F4-> F2.8) and decreasing the ISO by one step ( ex. 1600-> 800) we get the same noise level as on the D750 (ISO 1600 - you can see the graphs on DXOMARK) at the output and the same exposure. In this case, the thought of replacing the whale zoom lens with a fast zoom or fast prime is obvious. There are, of course, other aspects associated with compensation for high ISOs through exposure - these are depth of field, bokeh, sharpness at closed apertures due to diffraction, etc.
In this case, I focused on “toad” or “sober calculation” in assessing the winnings. Here I have indicated aftermarket prices when buying a new model and selling an old one
D7200 + Nikkor18-140F / 3.5-5.6 -> D750 + Nikkor 24-120F / 4 + 600 $, weight 1255-> 1550g
D7200 + Nikkor18-140F / 3.5-5.6 -> D7200 + Sigma17-55F / 2.8 + 125 $, weight 1255-> 1330g
I took the second path, leaving myself 18-140, after all, I consider myself to be the category of advanced amateurs, and I need a camera for shooting family, friends, landscapes and architecture when traveling.
At the same time, if the transition is made to new equipment with a guarantee and the sale of the old costs increases, each evaluates its own appropriateness. You can go further and make yourself an assessment table of such Upgrades.
All the same, I want a Mercedes.
Arkady, thank you for your educational efforts and the change of emphasis from technical to aesthetic.
I wish you all hello - a question to experts - a friend just gave me Nikon D80 with a Nikor 18-135 lens - advise an inexpensive lens - the pictures are mostly in nature we are at the sea we are at the dacha - I am not fond of landscapes and butterflies on flowers - I photograph everything in the mode auto)) thanks
this 18-135 fits all of the above
and one more question and is it all worth changing to a lens with an image stabilizer for example Nikon AF-S DX 18-55 F3.5-5.6G-thanks a lot for the consultation
I don’t see much point, 18-135 is much more convenient than 18-55. Only change if stabilizer is important
Thank you - good luck in everything and new successes
For such purposes a kit lens - 18 - 135 will FULLY suit you!
Well, you can still swing at Nikon 28-105.
thanks for the consultation
Hello Arkady. I shoot on the D7200 and less often on the d300. Lenses 85 1.4D 50 1
8g. D7200 in conjunction with 85 1.4d is not bad, but I do not have enough sharpness. There is such an idea to change 7200 to d750. Or d800. Does it make sense? Will the pictures be better.
So the problem is not in the carcass, but in the lens. Your 85 1.4d does not allow the d7200 multi-pixel sensor.
Hello, this is the question: I want to change the d700 to the z50 (yes, yes, the legendary full frame for an untested amateur crop) And I realized that the problem with the Z50 is the lack of lenses. A regular 16-50 from 6.3 to 50 mm is idiocy, so I don't even consider it. I have a full-frame 24-85, but it will be too narrow on the crop, I think it will sell, there is a shitty 50 1.8G (yes, it is a shitty half, half of the frames in the trash.) I also think to sell, at least for 2 thousand UAH. And what to take in return ???? Sigma again with stub 17-50? It's hard to find a good one, Nikon 16-80 is prohibitively expensive ... But through an adapter only motorized lenses are needed ... and the fleet of F optics is reduced. Who can advise what?
And yes I leave the 70-300VR - the best lens in my life, even on the crop, it will be god-like (as you understand, I'm crazy, so sorry)
Sigma 17-50 can be found new, it is not so expensive, the same applies to Tamron 17-50 VC. Completely absolutely the whole list of bright zoom for crop can be found, for example, in the review Sigma DC 17-70mm 1: 2.8-4 MACRO HSM OS (Alternatives section)
Thanks for the answer, I read the reviews, only the question is in full compatibility with the new adapter and third-party glasses, you need to surf the Internet, maybe I can find any feedback there.
16-80 used quite normal money costs, IMHO. I have the next planned purchase in line.
If you took something like the D3200, then yes, it is relatively expensive, but you chose a carcass for ≈ $ 1100. For about half this mumma you can find 16-80 in excellent condition. It's not even "buying a lens, but a carcass for delivery"
Should I change my D5100?
If so, which one? - the choice is between D5600 and D3500
If there is a serious reason for looking for a replacement, it is worth it. If there is no reason, you shouldn't.
Unambiguously, choosing between d5600 and d3500 priority should be given to d5600.
I would recommend changing the d5100 to something more serious, for example, to d7100, d7200. If these cameras are big and heavy for you, then the d5600 will be the best solution.
Good evening! Thanks for your work, a very useful resource, I will hang here for a long time. I have a question: I have D5000, whale 18-55, then I bought 50 mm 1,8g FX. The camera experienced a fall from the top shelf of the cabinet (whimper-whine), the filter shattered to smithereens, after the fall, it did not notice any changes in the work, but over time, the quality dropped dramatically. Namely, now at the extreme value of 1,8-2,0 it is very soapy. before everything was good, I shot at the maximum aperture open. now it's from 2,8, which is very sad. I am an amateur, I take pictures of my children and their all sorts of events, more reportage photography - contests, matinees, walks, birthdays, on vacation, etc. It was the main one, I didn't even put the whale one anymore. And in everything, fifty kopecks suited me, and now a maximum of 1 more or less normal frame out of 5. The text test also gives front focus.
Advise what to do? will help in the service center? buy a new 50 (or 35 mm), or take a sigma 17-50 2,8?
And a familiar photographer offers Mark 2 and with it a tamron of 28-75 2,8 mm for 37 thousand, I’m testing a week, but it doesn’t work out with him. There, the sharpness from 4 begins to be tolerable, and autofocus sometimes catches a very long time. I kind of caught it, I press the shutter again, looking .. After 50 mm I don’t get the joy of the pictures, because there are very few sensible or the hands are crooked.)
The materiel is lame, I say, intuitively and with minimal knowledge)
Or is it better to replace your 5000 with 7100, for example, and take a 17-50 sigma with it?
I’m very used to the quality of fifty dollars.
Thanks a lot for your answer!
It is better to change a broken lens, since everything was fine with you before that. Cheap and cheerful. Just try it first. Does it matter? Service can be tried, if only you live in the EU and that is not a fact
The 5D MkII is a great camera, but that tamron is, of course, a crappy lens.
And the familiar photographer is suspicious. He “shot off” the camera, and now he “vparivaet” the girl.
The usual practice is to buy a new device for yourself, an old one, but still working, sell it to a newcomer, recoup part of the cost of a new one. I was offered the first "penny", for mere pennies, but it looked like a tank that fought from Moscow to Berlin :) And the second bolt was almost over in this carcass. The version was from the same photographer - a zero 30D, brought from the States and stored as a "spare". He bought it, suits it for 100.
That's it, and I'm about the same. Would be a "penny" new, it is unlikely that he offered his girlfriend.
Contact the service to at least find out what is the reason.
In Ukraine, I can recommend the photo-parts service from Nikolaev - they are competent guys, there is a Facebook page.
Thanks so much for the answers! We have a service center in Moscow. The photographer has several cameras, I checked his mileage - 60. But he also took it from a friend, that is, I’m not even the second owner, but the third.
But can I try to identify the problems of the camera by the cetaceans? or comparatively fifty dollars it will be more difficult to do? because, as I understand it, if the problem is in the carcass, then it will be with all the lenses?
Yes, you can. If the problem is in the carcass. All lenses will behave the same (bad). You don't have to give it to the Moscow service - they still won't do it normally - I've already checked
It depends on which service center to talk about. If we are talking about Nikon, then you need to contact only the official Nikon near the Kursk station. Yes, it's expensive there, but they will do everything according to Nikon's quality standards.
Yes, I'm talking about the official one and I’m talking
I would not argue if I myself had not worked there. What did you do wrong there?
The diaphragm on the 35DX crumbled from the fall. After replacing, the aperture “under-closed” to the desired value. The error in overexposure is of the order of 2 / 3-1 steps. After 2 more hikes it became a little easier (about 0.5-0.7 steps), but still not ice. Service, however, was R-Service - not at the Kursk railway station, but also official, according to the nikon-russia website
Well, now it's clear. I said that only in the Nikon office (Nikon LLC) it is possible to have a quality repair. All other services (in Moscow and Russia) are authorized, but they are mismatched, do not have the full set of equipment as in a dealership and do repairs inaccurately. And like all authorized services, they try to make money out of thin air, trying to register any breakdown as a warranty repair, so as not to even disassemble, but to issue papers for Nikon and receive compensation.
Thanks, I'll keep it in mind
Of course check with the whale. The camera could also be injured in a fall.
Thank you!
But is it worth changing d5000 to 7100?
Why does this question constantly arise for you? Does the D7100 also offer you a friend? What do you want from this replacement? You most likely will not see a gain in image quality. This camera is slightly larger in size and weight, has functions and features that the 5000th does not have. But these opportunities are known to those photographers who choose it consciously and do not ask questions like yours. Why exactly 7100? I would choose the D7200. Arkady advises the D7500 - all these are derivative modifications of the older D7100.
And here the limited budget is the decisive factor. And the opinion that my camera is already outdated) means we remain at our place)
If you want to develop in photography, it makes sense to change the camera to one that has more options, and the 7 series has more of them compared to the 5 - "screwdriver", metering with manual lenses, protection from dust and moisture (but then the lenses are needed with dust and moisture protection). If there is no such goal, it is more practical to take, which is good, but easier. For example, if you are a law-abiding citizen, drive around the city without exceeding the speed, there is no point in buying a powerful sports bike - riding it up to 50-60 km / h is masochism (therefore, almost all owners of such bikes are malicious violators of the speed limit in the city). So it is with a camera - if there are no goals to go further, there is no need to chase after professional equipment - it is heavy, cumbersome, expensive. But if there are goals, then there is a sense.
I do not understand your answer. What does the budget have to do with your question about replacing the camera? Whose opinion is that your camera is out of date, your friend?
A camera is not a dress that has gone out of fashion. The camera does not age in this sense, just the owner at some point is no longer satisfied with its capabilities in any way.
Let's say you want to use a large fleet of non-motorized AF lenses. but in the amateur segment, cameras do not have an internal focus motor. Or you want to shoot at higher ISOs without visible matrix noise. Or control the IFC channel flash located spaced from the camera. Or have a high speed sync mode. Or determine the exposure with manual lenses.
And there are plenty of such “ors”.
If there is a need for these functions, the photographer thinks about acquiring more serious equipment.
Write down which parameters do not satisfy you and the advice of your colleagues will become more specific.
I'm afraid everything is completely wrong there. Apparently, Julia’s friend is trying to “strike” her photo equipment.
According to the IFC “out of the box”, not a single camera can, at least - Nikon.
US6IBD, apparently, had in mind the command mode for controlling an external flash with an on-camera flash.
Understanding that this resource expresses the author’s personal point of view, including his view on dividing cameras into amateur and pro, I must say that it should not be excluded from consideration for the purchase of old cameras by D2Xs, D300s and D3s. These are very good, reliable cameras with excellent ergonomics, outstanding frames of excellent quality and at an affordable price at the moment.
Again, the question of expediency arises. The D3s is a great camera, but with a lens it can easily go over two kilos, and the question immediately arises - where and how to carry it?
Our children somehow ran in the summer with a unit of kenon and from 80-200 2.8, shot each other and pestles-stamens-kitties. and not say that it was hard for them. Of course, we are all different, but I mentioned the camera data as an OPTION, which, perhaps, one of the not very well-versed LOVERS will skip when considering. and even three hundred and quite a very light camera, despite the fact that it has a protected magnesium case.
“In the summer, our children once ran with a kenon unit and from 80-200 2.8, took off each other and pistils-stamens-cats. and not say that it was hard for them "
(sorry there are no smiles, I imagined this picture, but oh well)
And what kind of unit was from Canon? Until now, you can find not very expensive film units and cheap 1Ds, 1D, 1D_mk2, 1D_mk3 of varying degrees of usability.
80-200 / 2.8L is about as rare as 28-70 / 2.8L in good condition ...
Interesting children))
The old ones have pretty Byzantine control and ergonomics.
Let's say 1Ds_mk3 is much easier to learn than 1Ds_mk2, but the price is noticeably different.
Older units have more stringent requirements for the experience of the photographer.
(These were not our children, just the children in the park) The camera was some kind of de-esca, as I recall. The girl had a hitch, I walked over and prompted. Then he saw her father, walked over, said hello, talked. He said that he had given the child an old camera to play with. She wanted beautiful photos of her girlfriends, with a blur, as she herself said, so he gave her a magic pipe. In general, this is not the first time I've seen children / teenagers with full-frame cameras and good optics. And I would not say that it was hard or somehow still inconvenient to shoot them.
I re-read the answer - but 28-70 2.8 is much more difficult to find in a good preservation, because the first gluing becomes cloudy there from old age. Only a few people will be able to glue / wash / re-glue :)
D3 and especially D3s, in good condition, is an expensive and not the easiest option for mastering by an advanced amateur (beginners will not take this).
It will be much simpler and easier for many to buy used D700 / D600-D610-D750.
I had D3s and it is really a wonderful camera, from which I have the most positive impressions.
Yes, I saw D3s for some reasonable money, like for such a camera. However, we are all very different :)
About D700 - I do not advise, the camera is officially removed from support and shutters are no longer supplied to it.
Thank you all for your feedback. For professionals, my questions really sound silly) No, my friend doesn’t insist, it's my kind of thinking that over time something new and more modern is needed. While I’m not going to develop further, and thanks to everyone for the advice, they helped me slow down my commitments to the unnecessary. I’ll stay with my D5000, but I’ll deal with the lens or purchase a new one. Nevertheless, such a kit completely suited me. thanks!)
Hello, I accidentally stumbled upon this site while searching for at least some information regarding the choice of camera (Nikon) and lens. This will be my first SLR, but I’ll say right away that I don’t have to judge that I never held a SLR in my hands, you are a beginner, so take a simple one, etc. No, I don’t need a simple camera, I want a good camera, I’m buying it not for 1 or 2 years, I’ll change it if I notice a clear decrease in image quality. And now to the point, my employees custom-made jewelry, you guessed it, you need the same macro lens. We used to use the services of a photographer, but I would like to capture the whole thing myself and work without intermediaries. Immediately, I note the fact that the carcass does not need a full-frame. And another very important question about stabilization, as I understand it, without a tripod (tripod) I can’t take high-quality pictures, right? If so, do you need a stabilization lens? Only one lens is needed (macro), since the camera will be exclusively operational. Also, to take pictures of not very well-lit rooms (and in natural light, say on terraces in daylight). Please advise something worthwhile, the lens should also be extremely good.
For macro photography, a tripod is required (good, stable), and a stabilizer is not needed, as you wrote.
Crop is better for macro. I would recommend the D7100 / 7200 - they have good resolution for macro and good sensitivity for shooting in not very good lighting conditions.
I take off a not-so-small item (nail polishes, etc.), I have enough of Jupiter-37a + macro rings. It is quite enough in resolution (f / 9-f / 11), almost no geometric distortion.
For indoor shooting I would recommend Tamron / Sigma 17-50 / 2.8, or Nikon 16-80 / 2.8-4, or Nikon 17-55 / 2.8
Hello. Thank you for the prompt answers, I myself was inclined to (D 7200 / D7500, but which one is better, although I already know the answer, take the D7500 more or less), the carcass was more or less determined, but the extremely good lens turned out to be extremely expensive, which I was advised :), its price exceeds the price of the carcass itself)) but I need a lens at least half the cost of the carcass and of course I would like Nikkor.
And now the pressing questions, as I understand it, are there no cheap and moderate lenses with a stabilizer too? I have repeatedly seen people in parks shoot insects in flowers without tripods, so they either have a stabilizer in the camera or in the lens, but unfortunately I need to take pictures without a tripod in nature to be able to tell? Indoors, it’s understandable, there’s no problem shooting with a tripod.
D7500 is inferior to D7200 / 7100 in many nuances, it has been simplified and made more “amateurish”.
Shooting insects handheld without a tripod is also a pleasure: in addition to shaking, the insect also moves, and autofocus is also difficult. Therefore - burst shooting, and 90-95% in the trash.
You will not notice a decrease in the quality of images after a few years (if the camera and lens are working, and the sensor is clean, of course). Perhaps you want some buns that are not in your camera, you want to try other glasses with an interesting pattern, well, or light up FF :-)
In general, for average tasks, DSLRs become obsolete slowly, i.e. cameras from 2011-2013 are quite 'modern', and are not much inferior to cameras 2018-2019 of the same price segment
Extremely good lens: https://radojuva.com/2016/02/nikon-n-af-s-micro-105mm-2-8g-ed-vr-if/
Hello! Thanks for the informative article. I ask for advice. I want to buy a good camera for food photography and a lens for it. I look towards nikon. The budget is modest, I will take boo. Tell me which one is better)
Here a lot depends on the requirements for the quality of the photo, for example, how you are going to use them, shooting conditions, for example, whether additional lighting will be used, etc., well, the size of your modest budget itself.
Normal lighting is essential, and good light for food photography is at least 50% of a good shot.
“Correct” light is LED with high CRI (≥95%), or “halogens” (they are good for everyone, but they get hot and warm the subject), or pulsed light + light modifiers (diffusers, reflectors, etc.).
With sufficient lighting, you can shoot with any camera (with an eye on the necessary final resolution of the picture), and even with a whale lens type 18-55.
Arkady, good day.
Please tell me which lenses you can recommend for the Nikon D7100, it is necessary to shoot a person indoors, usually in full growth, the lighting is not very good, respectively, there is no way to use studio light when shooting additionally, the light is only from the window, but not very. The purpose of shooting advertising clothing in social networks.
The budget is limited now, a lot is not ready to spend.
Buy a flash and shoot with kit 18-55. One manual flash in the ceiling + white sheet A5 for reflection is enough (instead of the built-in 'white card').
Even better is a white photo umbrella.
A new manual flash can be bought for $ 50- $ 70, a photo umbrella - $ 10, a photo stand + mount for a flash and an umbrella - $ 25, a total of $ 105, if ordered on Aliexpress - about one and a half times cheaper.
If there is absolutely nothing with light (this happens in museums and churches, but this, it seems, is not your case), then Tamron / Sigma 17-50, But even B.U. will be more expensive than new flash + stand + umbrella. Of the less convenient - Yongnuo 35/2, here just $ 100 can be met, and even change will remain.
But good light + cheap optics will give a better result (and processing will be easier and faster) than bad light and good optics
Good afternoon! What do you recommend Nikon D7500 or Z50?
Watching for what tasks.
Good afternoon, photo lovers. Need some advice.
Now I have d7000, but there was a desire to change it. It doesn’t suit me as a noisy matrix, autofocus. I see the d7500 as a newer model. What do you say, is it worth it? Or shift sewed on soap?
I’m shooting children, street photo. I do not earn a photo
The improvement in noise is negligible.
https://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Compare/Side-by-side/Nikon-D7000-versus-Nikon-D7500___680_1161
I think, sewed on soap. Ff.
And here there is a difference.
https://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Compare/Side-by-side/Nikon-D7000-versus-Nikon-D750___680_975
https://allo.ua/ru/products/photocameras/nikon-d750-body_1.html
That device gray I came across, but what kind of modification? Is it worth the money?
This is not a modification. Most likely they’re selling a camera with a defective Wi-Fi function
There is a modification "K" - for Korea with sawn WiFi (something they have there at the legislative level ...)
Is the price justified, or is it worth looking for something else?
Photosale with WiFi - 28270. If you don't need WiFi, why pay extra for it? During the year of using the camera, I turned on WiFi on it exactly once - when I checked it. On the other hand, the difference between UAH 800 is about 3%.
I can also suggest looking in the direction of B / U, and spend the money saved on optics.
Do you have a d750? And how do you like it? And then the reviews are not very, they write that the closest.
Compared to the D7100 - a small coverage area of AF points, a little less convenient control (due to a slightly smaller additional display), but the working ISO is almost twice as high, and a frame buffer is larger.
In general, I am satisfied with the camera, I bought 24-120 / 4 in the winter, as a result, the D750 + 24-120 bundle is more convenient and better than the D7100 + 18-140, but also heavier.
I will support the used option. Don't be afraid of that. Twisted mileage and camera defects are 99% of the horror stories. Much more often people either cool off to a photo in one or two years or switch to a cooler technique.
It's not horror stories.
And in a large number of scammers and problem / killed goods that appeared after 2015.
Nowadays they are switching to more recent expensive equipment, those who have a lot of free money.
Since I often buy / sell something on Avito, I can say for sure that Avito has significantly degraded over the past 2 years. And before buying, you need to check the goods personally and very meticulously / thoughtfully. No Avito-deliveries and payments on the card before sending the goods and no purchases from another region. You can not buy goods in the cheapest offers. But even in the expensive, it may be unloving.
In a personal meeting, see the goods during daylight hours. Carefully. And do not listen to the seller.
Always bring an LED flashlight with you if you intend to buy a lens.
For similar money, can I upgrade to the Sony a7II?
How is she?
The cheapest deals can really be an ambush. But, buying on OLX, I did not run into deception. 3 cameras and about 10 lenses were in excellent condition. Of course, I ordered either cash on delivery or "OLX delivery" in which the money is transferred not to the seller but to the owners of the trading platform, like on Aliexpress.
But the store in 2013 let me down. I transferred the money, and after 3 days the store disappeared. It was created on the SELBE platform, which, unlike PROM, did not require any passport data or a license for registration. A scammer's paradise. Moreover, everything was organized like a real online store - photographic goods in several categories, contacts, and more. The police openly “scored” the fact of fraud.
change the mileage on any camera in 15 seconds. but, of course, the appearance of a camera with a range of 200 thousand and 20 thousand cannot be changed in any way - everything will be visible with a slap :)
Such a question, please rate this kit here, the seller does not reduce the price, selectively does not sell, sells everything at once and is in no hurry with the sale. I sell practically not used Nikon. (mileage of about 9500). The status of the new device. Included: Lenses: 1). Nikkor AF-S 18-140 VR. 1: 3, 5-5, 6 ED. 2). Helios 44-2. 1: 2. 58mm. (3 pcs of macro rings included) 3). Tokina 35-300 1: 4, 5-6, 7 4). Hanimex tele-auto 1: 4, 5. 200mm. Wansen Trigger Kit, 1 manager, 2 hosts. Flash Triopo SpeedLight TR-988. Flash Yongnuo YN-460-2. Hoods for 67 and 72 mm. Knight X 67mm Filters 2 pcs. CPL + star 4+. Big bag LowePro. Small CaseLogik bag.
The most important thing is not indicated. What kind of camera?
Right, sorry Nikon D7200.
And how much is asking? (in hryvnias, or dollars, preferably)
990 Euro, 1070 dollars, 28490 UAH.
The normal price in bulk for all this stuff is (IMHO, googling OLX, etc.) about UAH 26000, or about $ 970, if everything is in good condition. At the expense of "wholesale", it should be a little cheaper. The question is - do you need it all, will you use everything, or try to sell it?
I take it exclusively for myself, and not for sale, we have a new carcass costs 610 Euro / 17580 UAH., It is new, not gray, but new in the official online store, this is the best offer on the local market, with a 24-month warranty . And this camera, which is bundled still has a 14-month warranty. All documentation and all boxes as the seller told me.
And on the left there is still charging and like 3 batteries in the kit. Naturally, I will feel all this with my own hands before the sale. The price of this kit is equal to the price of a new carcass (equivalent to 1.4), that is, the price of a new carcass is multiplied by 1.4
“The price of a new carcass” - evenly - about nothing, because there are “gray”, “white”, “rakitovka” and various shops ...
I have indicated the price. / 990 Euro, 1070 dollars, 28490 UAH.
If there are also batteries (even if China), then the price is quite good.
I take it exclusively for myself, and not for sale, we have a new carcass costs 610 Euro / 17580 UAH., It is new, not gray, but new in the official online store, this is the best offer on the local market, with a 24-month warranty . And this camera, which is bundled still has a 14-month warranty. All documentation and all boxes as the seller told me. PS I added a photo, aren't the batteries on the left? I just forgot to ask about the batteries.
I repeat the question (ask yourself): do you need everything that is sold in the kit?
You have not announced the purpose of the purchase that you have at the moment, and if the camera is not the first, then you should already be aware of what is missing. I already wrote that the price is good. But if I took myself, then two-thirds of this is not interesting to me.
For example, Wansen triggers - I hear about them for the first time, if you want to buy in addition - will you find more? As a radio system, it is better to take something popular - Yongnuo or Godox, especially since these manufacturers have flashes with built-in synchronizers.
Flash Triopo - dealt, I absolutely do not like it.
The YN-460-2 is the simplest flash ...
Tokina 35-300 - well, debatable, although the FR for the crop is convenient. It seems to me - rather weak for a 24 MP crop, as well as Hanimex, most likely.
"Star" filter - useless toy (one lies)
Filters, bags - maybe useful if you don't have any of these. There are never too many memory cards.
A spare battery is a necessary thing if you go camping without access to an outlet, as well as if you are a “professional photographer” and shoot many thousands of frames all day (> 2000) or video (then not the best choice of camera ...)
I repeat - the adequacy of this set depends on your tasks.
I also forgot to indicate as a gift 2 cards of 32 Gb each.
You are not paying attention. Typically, girls, choosing a camera, “peck” at a handbag and a memory card in the kit. What is the use of a “gift” for two memory cards if, in addition, they offer you a bunch of junk? I agree with BB, for me the only interesting thing here is the camera itself and the “native” 18-140 lens. Why do you need two flashes, especially non-native? And why do you need two bags? Carry the whole set? For what? If you have such a sum, isn’t it easier to just buy a new camera? Believe me, with experience you yourself will figure out what you should buy.
Hello, thanks for the interesting and useful articles. I am new to photography and would like to get professional advice. Objective: remove the goods for the online store and instagram + small video instructions. Subjects for shooting are small from 5 to 30 cm. Now I'm shooting on a Nikon D80 18-135 kit on a tripod with pulsed light.
1. I’m considering or Nikon z50, but I don’t know which lens to use. Can I connect an existing one via the ftz adapter, or take some other one?
2. Or Nikon D7500 18-140
I choose the camera with a margin for the future.
What do you recommend?
So far I do not see any development of the Z50 line, and I consider using lenses through an adapter to be a crutch. Therefore, I personally tend to d7500. But your question is more related to the question of "DSLR / mirrorless", and it does not have a single solution.
Arkady, the latest news:
"Nikon plans restructuring"
The plan of May 28, 2020 sets out the following goals:
The company will continue to focus on mid-range and premium models, and will continue to design new products, reallocating resources to more profitable ones.
https://photar.ru/kompaniya-nikon-planiruet-restrukturizaciyu/
I think this example will be partially followed by Canon, which has too many crop cameras.
Hello, please help, I still can’t decide which camera to take, I want to switch from crop format to full-frame, at the moment I’ve been photographing on the Nikon d3500 for 2.5 years, I really lack dynamic range and don’t like the noise on my camera (the slave iso 400-800 is not suitable further for portrait portraits) because I like to photograph exclusively at night, there is a tripod, but I need the camera to take out night pictures of the city and portraits in sufficient light from my hands. The choice fell on the d750, but then I looked at the d610 and now I don’t know what to choose, the price difference is strong, but according to the characteristics I look it’s not much different, I’m afraid that taking d610 will increase in iso I can take pictures at 800 -1600iso, I did not find any normal tests on the Internet. But taking d750 I will regret for overpaying a couple of characteristics. And in addition, I’m going to take a 35mm f1 lens later. 8 or 24mm f 1.8
sony a7s
DD is not enough on which ISO ..?
If you need a wide DD and have a tripod - there are D810, D850 for that.
Another option is the new Z6 / Z7 with a matrix stub. Their DD is also very good.
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If money is not enough - D610 / D750. The matrix is the same (or very similar).
D750 is preferable due to the operation of the AF module. It works better in the dark. The D610 uses an AF module similar to the one that was installed on the D7000. Less focus points, worse accuracy.
Noises on the D750 did not bother me on the ISO 2500.
Nikita, according to reviews, the D750 copes better with high ISOs (a good review on DPReview), but here it is scolded for color.
The D750's main advantages (relative to the D610) are autofocus (more points, more coverage, better sensitivity in the dark), a rotating screen, work at high ISO, slightly less weight / dimensions.
Of the d750's drawbacks is the price, there are negative reviews (the main complaint is usually the color and the fact that there were several sores requiring service).
On the side of the D610 - the price, and for some reason on the network they usually speak positively about it (except for comments on autofocus).
Personally, I met photographers of the owners of these cameras, who were very satisfied.
Another good alternative can be D3s, if you are not afraid to buy a control unit and the dimensions will suit you.
Thanks to everyone for the answers, I am more inclined to buy d610, I have practically no problems with autofocus with the d3500 even in the dark, I think if you switch to d610, then there should be no problems with AF, because AF is probably definitely no worse than d3500)
https://camspex.com/ru.comparison.php?camera1=Nikon+D610&camera2=Nikon+D750
This is about the characteristics of these two cameras.
As you can see, the ISO workers in them are almost the same.
I shoot with D610 at 3200 without any problems. At higher ISO and higher magnification, noise is noticeable. I don’t suffer from the absence of a rotary display, since I don’t use LiveWiev mode at all when taking photos. Those who are accustomed to “soap boxes” will use the swivel screen, but it reduces the reliability of the device. But I would not refuse the built-in Wi-FI - it is very convenient to immediately view the footage on a tablet or laptop. After all, you notice many details only when transferring to a computer.
I used to shoot on the D80, so there ISO400 is no longer used.
https://camspex.com/ru.comparison.php?ca.mera1=Nikon+D3300&camera2=Nikon+D610
For example, a comparison of the D610 with the D3xxx line.
About the dynamic range.
In reality, the DD of matrices of SLR cameras lies in the range of 11-13EV and this is less than the real DD of the eye - 14EV without adaptation and 24EV with adaptation. And the real illumination levels reach 28-30EV. You will not feel the difference in DD between amateur and flagship cameras. By the way, the films had 7-8EV and nobody suffered.
And the last nail.
In the aftermarket, the D610 and D750 prices are very close for cameras of equal mileage. This is due to the fact that the D750 turned out to be a raw product and was quickly replaced by the new D780 - as happened with the D600 / D610.
750 knocked down the price by 610 and was “knocked down” by 780.
So, if funds allow, the transition to FF will cause a lot of positive emotions and regret that I did not do this before. :-)
Fast - within 6 years?
Well, yes, miss. I did not check the release date.
"You won't feel the difference in DD between amateur and flagship cameras."
This is controversial - it depends on the matrix generation.
“In the aftermarket, the D610 and D750 prices are very close for cameras of equal mileage. "
It is close, as Nikon greatly dropped the price of the new D750 before the release of the D780.
And the secondary housing is overcrowded - for about the same price +/- $ 100-150 D700, D600, D610, D750, D800 / D800E, Canon 6D, Canon 5D mk2, Nikon D3 go. The 5D mk3 and 1Ds mk3 are striving for about the same price category.
+ Relatively fresh Sony A7 / A7R / A7s and ushatannye copies A7m2.
I generally recommend all the secondary. Many people dumped an iPhone 8, bought a year ago, to buy an iPhone 10. And this is also the case with photographic equipment. Marketing is a very thoughtful thing that makes people buy goods that they do not need or are not better than what is available.
50% of the sale of a camera is associated with the release of a new model, 50% - the fact that a person has lost interest in photography. In this case, the real mileage of a five-year-old vehicle can be 3-5-10 thousand kilometers.
It happens in another way. A year ago I was looking for a D610 for my daughter. I came across an advertisement for the sale of the D610, which was in operation for 3 months and was bought for the period of the D750 repair. When asked about the mileage, the owner honestly admitted - 80 thousand (!).
Buying used equipment scares many people and instead of used FF people buy an amateur crop in the store, but a new one ...
I've been buying a variety of electronic products on the secondary market for twenty years now, around the world. ooooooo rarely had a problem. I bought a lot, if we talk about photo and video equipment, personally in Russia, checked it on the spot, but it's a little easier for me - there is all the service software of both kenon and nikon, so I can check everything at all) sometimes I bought a broken one, for ridiculous money , but have the opportunity to repair. in general, it makes sense to buy only professional equipment on the secondary, this applies to everything. it is simply more qualitatively designed and manufactured and therefore serves an order of magnitude longer than the household one.
I wonder where this 5D MkIII and 1Ds MkIII fell into the same price category? all I see is, well, a very significant, at times, the difference in their prices.
1Ds mk3 can cost a lot differently from 40-45 thousand rubles for killed or problematic to 90 thousand rubles, for almost new ones with low mileage in a box.
For 5d mk3, a plug in prices is from 47-48 to 85 thousand rubles. They ask a lot for boxed copies with minimal mileage.
Hello Arkady, tell me please, what kind of optics is needed to get pictures in the kind of those shot by Andy Seliverstoff? For instance:
https://scontent-muc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/34452526_2144879248886391_8800617396592181248_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_sid=cdbe9c&_nc_ohc=c_9YX63JMB4AX-jZR1o&_nc_ht=scontent-muc2-1.xx&oh=5fa158356ebc24a2184e71ec8151b19a&oe=5F0DA2F9
or
https://scontent-muc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/60351046_2868865703154405_5244730452299743232_o.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_sid=cdbe9c&_nc_ohc=pKs8hynhumcAX9rK7oV&_nc_ht=scontent-muc2-1.xx&oh=5a743fd95b81a6b739b545f250b8eda6&oe=5F0DD798
I understand that there is a lot of photoshop, but probably you won’t get so much light on 24-105 f4, but he probably didn’t take pictures in the bright sun?
On what, approximately, is the lens worth starting to save?)
EF 85mm f / 1,4?
Good afternoon. So ask him. But I know that he shoots mainly on Canon 135/2 and Canon 85 / 1.2.
Thank you!
You can get plus or minus the same even at 85 / 1.8, pressed to 2. In principle, you can try 105/4. But there the cut-off pattern is absolutely changed, the light will never fall like that. The faces of children, the muzzles of dogs - everything is highlighted. Plus, in the background, all these streaks of light are drawn, it is very difficult to hit the sun so well so that both the lighting is uniform and the glare - this should be caught at sunset for 10-15 minutes.
Learn to photoshop and shoot. Look for suitable spots - aperture 2 or even 4 will blur the entire background into trash if this background is far enough from the foreground. There the contribution of photographic equipment is 10 percent. The remaining 90 percent is the technique of the photographer.
Here is 85/2 for you as an example (1.8 is not sharp enough) - https://500px.com/photo/1004443801 The setting sun, it would be better slightly through the clouds, the background in the trash. Even 2.8, I think, would not have greatly changed the nature of the blur. Well, I would have to move further from the bushes. It is not enough - you will use the blur in Photoshop, I am sure that even at 1.2 your photographer does the same in some cases. Most of what you see is either wild processing or equally wild preparation, five assistants and ten lights.