For the opportunity to review the legendary Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D MKIII many thanks to Dmitry. Dmitry is engaged in the sale of excellent professional lenses, his catalog can be viewed here.
Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D MKIII review
TTX Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKIII)
Focal length: 80-200mm, 2.5X zoom
Diaphragm: F / 2.8-f / 22
Number of aperture blades: 9 pieces
The weight: 1.3kg
Optical design: 16 elements in 11 groups, with 3 ED elements and SIC enlightenment
MDF: 1.5m (1: 5.9 magnification), the lens has a system CRC
Front Filter Diameter: 77 mm
Optically, the third version of the Nikon AF 80-200 / 2.8 lens is no different from the first two versions of MKI and MKII.
A complete and accurate list of all Nikkon Nikkor class 70(80)-(180)200/2.8 autofocus professional lenses:
- Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8 (MKI) - November 1987 to September 1992, 16 elements in 11 groups (with 3 ED elements)
- Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKII) - from September 1992 to 1997, 16 elements in 11 groups (with 3 ED elements)
- Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKIII) - January 1997 to present, 16 elements in 11 groups (with 3 ED elements)
- Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D Silent Wave Motor (MKIV, AF-S) - from December 1998 to 2003, 18 elements in 14 groups (with 5 ED elements). There are two colors: black and gray.
- Nikon ED AF-S VR-Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 2.8G Vibration Reduction SWM IF (MKV, VRI) from February 2003 to January 2009, 21 elements in 15 groups (with 5 ED elements). There are two colors: black and gray.
- Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 2.8GII ED N VR Nano Crystal Coat SWM IF (MKVI, VRII) - July 2009 to present, 21 elements in 16 groups (with 7 ED elements).
- Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 2.8E FL ED N VR Nano Crystal Coat (MKVII, E) - from October 2016 to the present, 22 elements in 18 groups (6 ED, 1 FL, 1 HRI element). There is a rare subversion Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 2.8E FL ED N VR Nano Crystal Coat Nikon 100th Anniversary (100th Anniversary) - April 2017 to present, features a metallic gray finish with the Nikon 100th Anniversary logo).
- Nikon Nikkor Z 70-200mm 1: 2.8 VR S (MK VIII, Z, S-series) - from January 2020 to the present day. Nikon Z mirrorless version, 21 elements in 18 groups (6 ED, 2 ASP, 1 FL, 1 SR)
- Nikon Nikkor Z 70-180mm 1: 2.8 (MK IX,Z) - from June 2023 to the present day. Version for Nikon Z mirrorless cameras, 19 elements in 14 groups (5 ED, 3 ASP, 1 SUPER ED), diagram from Tamron 70-180mm F / 2.8 Di III VXD Model A056
Old versions Nikon ED 80-200mm f / 2.8D AF Nikkor MKII and MKI are basically different from the Nikon ED 80-200mm f / 2.8D AF Nikkor MKIII using the zoom method and type of enlightenment. The first two versions are often called 'single-ring', since one ring on the lens is responsible for zooming and focusing, and the zoom itself is performed using the piston method. The MKIII version is called 'two roundabout', since there are already two rings on the lens, the first is responsible for zooming, and the second for focusing, while the lens has a classic modern zoom method. All three versions of MKI, II, III have the same optical design, so the image quality of these lenses is quite similar to each other. There are even rumors that the first versions of MKI, MKII are even sharper after the third, I don't believe in that.
Optical design Nikon ED 80-200mm f / 2.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII)
An interesting point is that until now (at the beginning of 2013) only 2 versions of the lens of the 70 (80) -200 / 2.8 class are produced - this is a nanocrystalline Nikon ED 70-200mm f / 2.8GII AF-S VR N Nikkor (IF) and this old Nikon ED 80-200mm f / 2.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII). The MK3 version has been very, very successful.
Lens enlightenment Nikon ED AF review Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D MKIII and aperture view
Nikon AF 80-200mm f / 2.8D ED MKIII made in japanhave been producing the lens since 1996. The build quality is at a very high level, almost the entire lens barrel is made of metal alloy. The zoom and focus rings are rubberized. The lens itself is quite heavy for use on amateur cameras, as it weighs much more than the amateur camera itself. But the appearance of the lens is very 'serious'. The lens uses 'professional' 77 mm filters. On my Nikon D700 sits and looks very nice. Managing the lens is very convenient.
Focusing
Lens does not have internal focus. When focusing, the front lens rides and rotates freely in the lens barrel, but the trunk of the lens does not extendas the lenses are inside the frame. There will be no problems with using filters. Also, while zooming and focusing, the rear lens remains stationary, which reduces the 'vacuum cleaner' effect.
The lens has focus stop. The limiter can switch the lens to one of the modes Full / limit. In 'Full' mode, the lens can focus from infinity to 1.5m. In 'Limit' mode, the lens can focus either from infinity to 2.8m, or from 2.8m to 1.5m. Of course, the lens has a focus scale in meters and feet, as well as an infrared shift indicator for 80mm.
My shabby copy of Nikon 80-200 2.8 MK3
There is a switch on the lens focus mode 'M / A'. In M mode, only manual focus is available. The manual focus ring rotates on 90 degrees in 'Full' mode, and 60 degrees in 'Limit' mode. Manual focusing is quite easy and pleasant. In focus mode 'A', only auto focus is available and the focus ring remains locked. The focus mode switch has a lock button. This button is very inconvenient to use, and the switch itself, which is made in the form of a ring, is inconvenient enough to rotate to switch the focusing mode. The focus mode switch is the only thing I didn't like about this lens.
The autofocus of the lens is fast. When using the 'Limit' mode, little time is spent running the lenses from infinity to the limiting value. In the 'Full' mode, the lenses take much longer to run. Of course, due to the camera's screwdriver being used to focus, the lens emits quite loud noise with auto focus.
View of the Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D MKIII lens from the bayonet side
It's important: auto focus with this lens is available only when using him on cameras with built-in motor focusing.
Exact list Nikon DSLR cameras with a built-in focus motor, on which this lens will focus automatically:
- D1, D1h, D1x, D2x, D2xs, D2h, D2hs
- D3, D3x, D3s, D4, D4s, D5, D6
- Df
- D50, D70, D70s, D80, D90
- D7000, D7100, D7200,D7500
- D100, D200, D300, D300s,D500
- D600, D610, D750, D780
- D700, D800,D800E, D810, D810a, D850
- Fujifilm FinePix S1 Pro, S2 Pro, S3 ProS3 Pro UVIR, S5 ProIS Pro
- Kodak DCS PRO 14n, DCS Pro SLR/n
Exact list Nikon DSLR cameras without a built-in focus motor, on which this lens will not focus automatically:
Only auto focus and sound confirmation of focus will not work with these cameras, all other important functions, such as automatic exposure metering and automatic iris control, will work well.
You will find a lot of useful information on the types of cameras and lenses Nikon here.
Important: the lens has an aperture control ring. In order for the lens to start working normally on modern CZKs, you need to set the f / 22 value on the lens and snap a special switch near the aperture control ring. After such a manipulation, the aperture can be controlled from the camera, in more detail in the section on Non-G type lens.
The lens has tripod socket with foot. The socket cannot be removed. The socket foot can rotate around the lens and be fixed using a special clip.
Sample photos on Nikon AF 80-200mm f / 2.8D ED MKIII and full frame
All photo without processing. All photos in the gallery below were shot with a Nikon ED 80-200mm f / 2.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) lens and camera Nikon D700, RAW, NL image management mode, converted to JPEG using VinewNX 2 with automatic detection BB (Calculate Automaticaly), reduced size to 3MP and imprinted data from EXIF.
Sample photos on Nikon AF 80-200mm f / 2.8D ED MKIII and cropped camera
All photo without processing. All photos in the gallery below were shot with a Nikon ED 80-200mm f / 2.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII) lens and camera Nikon D80, RAW, PO picture management mode, converted to JPEG using VinewNX 2 with automatic detection BB (Calculate Automaticaly), reduced size to 3MP and imprinted data from EXIF.
When using the lens on Nikon DX cameras EGF will be 120-300mm. Even on crop, this lens remains just a gorgeous tool in the hands of the photographer. The lens is well suited for portraiture, wedding photography, for wildlife photography, sports.
Personal experience
There are no significant complaints to the Nikon AF 80-200mm f / 2.8D ED MKIII, it is really a worthwhile lens, a good budget option to replace the expensive 70-200 / 2.8GII N VR. Many people write that the disadvantage of the lens is its weight, for me it is rather a virtue. Great weight helps take pictures with hand without grease. Of course, on F / 2.8 it’s not as sharp as a razor, but picture quality is really high. The lens may still use a lens hood HB-7, with a lens hood, the lens looks generally irresistible. Nikon 80-200 F2.8 MK3 can be considered one of the three lenses of a professional photographer, who should be in a case.
You can see the prices for the lens in popular stores. at this link, or in the price block below:
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Lens view Overview Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D MKIII on Nikon D80
Conclusions:
Nikon ED AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1: 2.8D (MKIII) - great professional lens. Good value for money. I recommend.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
This lens was very interested in the third generation, I read a lot of very flattering reviews, although there was a fly in the ointment. Please advise how and where it is better to buy a used lens and what is the real price? The most difficult thing is that I live in the region, i.e., there is no way to test it myself.
Selling such a new one. 9134147101
write to the mail if still relevant 79207201991@ya.ru
Tell me which model of screwdrivers with the same picture quality but focus DO-80mm
Thank you ...
What would pair him up without a built-in motor ... Maybe there is such a legend up to 80mm?
nikon 35-70 / 2.8
Oh yeah…. The glass is great. He draws perfectly, but because of the ram, he had to sell ... If you find it without fungus, then take it, you will not regret it.
Hello !! I’ll sell version 3, perfect condition, petal hood, boxes, checks and so on. Any verification at your expense. 9851832386. Moscow, without shipments.
Good afternoon.
Nikon 80-200 / 2.8 sold or still sold?
"Of course, because the camera's screwdriver is used to focus, the lens makes quite a lot of noise during autofocus."
And the 4th version of AF-S is less noisy?
Less.
AF-S is noisy like any other autofocus lens.
Good evening, I’m using this lens (I bought a new one, almost like 3 weeks) on the Nikon d750, there were big problems with sharpness (it doesn’t ring 100%). Tell me, how can I solve this problem and can I fix it using the autofocus fine-tuning function?
Try photographing a contrasting target using Lightview and a conventional optical viewfinder. If there is a difference in sharpness, then you can try to adjust it using fine tuning. If there is no particular difference, then the problem is in the lens.
Hello, hello! Did you manage to solve the problem of insufficient sharpness in your bundle D750 + 80-200? If so, how?
How can I find you in contact?
Hello, I plan to purchase Nikon 80-200, I have a d750 camera, tell me how the lens behaves in this bunch. I just saw your posts on the forum where you complain about poor sharpness
I guess finding useful, reliable inofmration on the internet isn't hopeless after all.
And it’s not entirely clear from your description: when buying, the sharpness was 100%, and then it began to fall? Or was the lens initially not sharp enough?
he still misses, and often.
Thank you!
whether suitable for d3100
not fit
and if only in auto mode to shoot?
With this lens, there will be no autofocus on younger carcasses. At least in auto mode, at least in any other
Good day, Andrey. Is this lens suitable for the D610?
Bagodaren in advance
We are waiting for Andrew to answer
I also consider it at 610 as an artistic portrait. While I tried several copies, they all lather. But the 4th version behaved well, but this is already a slightly different glass. We must try and look for a good copy.
Focus speed is interesting. There is someone who filmed sports for them. Acquired - narrowly - winter sports. Also, there are options for tasks with shooting animals. I apologize right away for such a vague request. The experience is only "portrait", I almost did not shoot at short exposures, I am slowly mastering it. I'm not chasing some super-television quality, but maybe there are other options besides this glass. It would just be more logical for me even than the 70-200, since the 85 1.8 is already in stock. PySy - I have a crop, D90
Thanks in advance
I shot sports with this glass and shot a lot on the D90: KHL, volleyball, basketball, etc. The link is good. The result will be at a good amateur level. For serious results, other cameras are needed (due to better focusing systems).
I sold it when I switched to D7100, because 24-megapixel cropped cameras are not allowed by this glass - soap appears.
For the future: keep the glass for yourself - change D90 to D7000 or already to FF, such as D600 and older.
My colleague is shooting on 80-200 and D4. This is an example of compatibility of this old man and a small pixel camera.
And where can I see examples of 80-200 and D4?
https://www.facebook.com/vecherrg?fref=ts
Here are a lot of photos https://www.facebook.com/%D0%A0%D0%B5%D0%B3%D0%B8%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%B0%D0%BB%D1%8C%D0%BD%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%B0%D0%B7%D0%B5%D1%82%D0%B0-%D0%92%D0%93-%D0%92%D0%B5%D1%87%D0%B5%D1%80%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%B9-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%B4-%D0%A1%D0%B2%D0%B5%D1%80%D0%B4%D0%BB%D0%BE%D0%B2%D1%81%D0%BA%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%BE%D0%B1%D0%BB%D0%B0%D1%81%D1%82%D1%8C-259459224194879/?fref=ts
As for me, it’s hard to fall into sharpness on new cameras, because it is by no means ringing very much. At the expense of adjustment, as I understand it, we can’t talk anymore, it has been discontinued. Correct me if I am mistaken. Below is an example, removed in a bunch of 80-200 and d750. It is, although sharp, but not as much as I would like, like in a little haze.
Tell me, why do you “ringing” in portraits? Do you want to show all the cruelty of the deceiving female beauty?
Want a secret? In photography, in general, sharpness is the tenth thing, none of the viewers pays attention to it.
In your case, higher haze is not sharpness, but a loss of contrast. Perhaps because of the backlight. Again, who needs it here when everyone is looking at a beautiful girl, and not at some invisible haze.
And why do I need to sharpen or refine in Photoshop. Under the same conditions, I shot on 3 lenses: 80-200 mm, Tamron 28-75mm, 50mm 1,4. So, 80-200mm completely upset. And at the expense of your If there is no sharpness in the photo at all, I think this is wrong.
You better show examples here, so that we can also see how worse the sharpness is.
Have you checked the focus of your device with this glass (as you were advised above)?
Perhaps there is still a front / back focus?
If there are problems with focusing, then what kind of sharpness can we talk about.
About the haze: dust inside the lens and scratches (even microscopic ones) can very much give such an effect in backlight.
In my focus on the palm.
Does anyone else have problems with 80-200 with a bunch of d 750?
Or am I the only one so far?
On my carcass 80-200 AF-S refused to work. I think to try to reflash the camera. Who knows if it will help?
Knowledgeable people, tell me. When zooming, the ring moves with a sufficiently large force, greater than when rotating the focus ring. Is this normal or is it worth starting to worry? No noise, cod, etc. not visible.
Is it worth buying on eBay?
I bought on ebay from the Japanese, as it was written so it is, the state of the new AF-S, very satisfied.
Something I am in doubt: take this for 40000 on eBay or 70-300mm f / 4.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor new in store for 28000?
And for what tasks do you need one of these lenses?
Shooting birds, nature.
If the stub is not needed and you are sure that you can aim at 200mm without any problems, then take the 80-200 - it is sharper at similar apertures, and it will do just fine for portraits. For birds in general, its autofocus is enough, as, however, the autofocus of 70-300vr was enough for me. Another option is to look at a used 70-200 4vr, it is sharp and with a stub and autofocus is very fast, but still the price for it is more. And yet, are you planning to shoot with crop? If on ff, are not you afraid that 200mm will be too wide? I personally do not even have enough 300mm for ff, usually it is very convenient to shoot birds at 500mm and on a crop - here it is really easy to catch them and you don't have to sneak too close in the hope of not scaring them off. Sigma 150-500 wasps easily fits into your budget. Here and stub and large focal. The aperture ratio is not enough, but in the daytime I calmly shoot with this sigma even on the old d80, on which it is undesirable to raise the ISO above 400. Stub motion does not freeze, but aiming with a stub is much easier - especially on a long focal length.
Well, if there is money, then Nikon recently released just gorgeous 200-500bp 5.6 for birds, albeit not very light, but very sharp (better than 80-400bp) and at the same time at a fairly humane price comparable to the same sigma of 150- 600 ° C
Thanks for the tip, but the latest models are too expensive for me. I have a d7000 crop, I'm an amateur and I don’t earn a photo. I would be cheaper. I think the dark but fast 70-300mm f / 4.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor is fine for me.
Quite fine! I have d7000 and it was 70-300 BP - this set allows you to shoot birds even on the fly. Not swifts, but all sorts of seagulls, crows, ducks and other not very fast birds are very easy to shoot. Well, I also note that bird photography is usually carried out on sunny days, I even noticed that most of the photos in nature magazines were taken not even in the evening, and even less at night. In addition, the structure of the feathers will be much better visible in hard light, or in the shade, but on a sunny day. Therefore, the luminosity of 70-300vr should be enough. And again, personally, the stub helps me a lot when shooting moving objects, even if the shutter speed is shorter than 1/500. It's easier to keep your subject in the frame. Well, a number of birds sitting quietly can be filmed at exposures up to 1/60 without smearing, and here the stub is very useful, especially at 300mm. By the way, I would like to note that 70-300vr shoots a little worse at 300mm, if you shoot in the open, then it is better to slightly undercrank the zoom stopping at 250mm - the approximation is very similar, and the result will be a little sharper. But even at 300mm, covering up to 8, you can get an excellent picture. By the way, with the same 80-200 2.8, it would also have to cover, especially at 200mm and with a close bird location, since the depth of field would be very small and even a medium-sized bird would start to blur :)
Well, let me remind you once again about sigma 150-500os - it is rarely recommended by anyone, but for me it is much better for birds because of a comfortable tripod foot and a large focal point. The price of a used one is even lower than the new 70-300vr costs, but it is very inconvenient to carry this sigma, and it may seem difficult.
Victor, I also recommend considering the Tamron DI SP 70-300mm F / 4-5.6 VC USD A005NII - in the opinion of many, this is an analogue of the native 70-300 with a stub, only for less money. His review is on this site.
I bought this glass, because I knew about it for a long time, but I doubted everything, after a trial shooting, all doubts disappeared. I was surprised by the autofocus - it is very tenacious, the sharpness is excellent, but it drops a little by 200mm, you need to cover the aperture by 4, then everything is fine. As for the weight, everything is uncritical, let the girls worry, and we guys are accustomed to weights.
I would also like to note the picture that can be obtained with this glass, the subject stands out very much against the whole background, which kind of envelops the object and the effect of depth and volume is obtained. At 200mm, the glass begins to twist the background, very similar to the drawing of domestic Helios. The so-called compression is very interesting, which, as it were, attracts objects, increasing them in size, apparently this very compression creates the above-described effects of depth and volume.
I took a used one, the appearance of 9 out of 10 has minor chips of paint, but the metal design creates a reliable impression. Carcass D600.
Arkady, first of all, thank you for your work - your reviews, as always, are very interesting and informative, more than once, before buying something from photographic equipment, I read your articles. Now the question is how to find out the version of this lens, so as not to run into an older version (MKI) for MKIII money (I'm looking now on the ebay site - there are no such markings anywhere, sellers do not write about this either). Thanks in advance for your reply.
They all look different https://radojuva.com.ua/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/all-nikon-prof-tele-zoom.jpg
Arkady, many thanks for the help (and efficiency))) !!!
And if I understand correctly, the last two models are Nikkor 70-200 mm.?
Yes, but the line is the same.
Arkady, good day. The question is, I want to buy this glass from my hands, the seller writes that only autofocus works on the lens, and the manual mode does not work. He has a camera and I have a Nikon D700. It happens?! Thanks for the answer.
then it’s broken
I bought such a glass and managed not to check the focus ring, now I can’t focus in the manual. The ring just scrolls. Has anyone encountered a similar one? I think the other day to get into it and try to fix it ..
Well this is not Jupiter 37a, which can be disassembled and be sure that you will collect it. Maybe it's better to use autofocus and not to steam, that manual focus does not work? It would be worse not to do :)
Arkady, hello! Advise what to take on the camera d610, Nikon 80-200mm f / 2.8D ED AF or Nikon 70-300mm f / 4.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor and for the remaining money for example Nikon 24mm f / 2.8D AF Nikkor
For what purpose?
Mostly sports, reporting, less often portrait / landscape
I would still take MK3, aperture and short shutter speed for reporting is more important than the stub.
Thanks for the advice! I think so. I found an MK3 bu for 35k, now I'm thinking how to check it, by the way I did not find an article about checking lenses (including used ones), which is strange, maybe I was looking in the wrong place ... I have an idea to test a new one on my camera in the store, but then go and watch used lenses, so to speak, compare the sensations) if the difference is not special and nothing fell off, then take it, and of course I found an article from another author about checking used lenses, but I would like to hear your opinion on on this occasion, if there is a similar article, I would be glad to link! Thanks again.
Arkady, hello! Advise what to take on the camera d610, Nikon 80-200mm f / 2.8D ED AF or Nikon 70-300mm f / 4.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor and for the remaining money for example Nikon 24mm f / 2.8D AF Nikkor, forgot to say, focusing on shooting (in descending order) sports, landscape / portrait reporting
Internal focusing - movement of a group of lenses, and not the entire optical unit when focusing.
Nikon AF 80-200mm f / 2.8D ED has internal focusing (front unit), so it is very fast. Autofocus speed is independent of Full-Limit position. In the Full position, the autofocus time increases in case of autofocus flight when the focus on the subject fails. Autofocus speed largely depends on the class of the camera, i.e. from the internal drive of the camera itself