Canon EOS 5D with lens Canon Macro Lens EF 100mm 1: 2.8 L IS USM
Canon EOS 5D - this is a legendary old full frame semi-professional camera (or advanced amateur - as it is convenient to count), which was produced from 2005 to 2008. My version made in japan. Canon 5D became the third camera after Canon EOS 1DS и Canon EOS 1Ds Mark II with a full-frame sensor, the Canon EOS 5D is the first in a new class of professional cameras with a lightweight body (often referred to as 'semi-pro'). Canon EOS 5D has direct descendants: this 5D MarkII, 5D Mark III и 5D Mark IV... Canon EOS 5D is often referred to simply as'first dime'or' 5D classic '.
The Canon EOS 5D has a 13.3 MP CMOS sensor, of which only 12.8 MP, which by today's standards is not so much, but 12.8 MP is enough for comfortable shooting of most photo tasks. I rarely find it necessary to use cameras with a large number of megapixels. Canon EOS 5D Captures Images 4368 by 2912 pixels (total - 12.719.616 pixels), which is enough to print pictures even on the A3-A4 format. I rarely print pictures larger than 20 x 30 cm.
Canon EOS 5D can use ISO from 100 to 1600 and expand the range to a value ISO L (ISO 50), ISO H (ISO 3200). Today you won’t surprise anyone with ISO 3200, even modern Canon cropped cameras with APS-C format sensors, for example Canon 650D, can overclock their ISO up to 25.600. But still, I want to pay tribute to the old lady Canon EOS 5D: unlike the 'inflated' ISO values of many cropped cameras, the Canon EOS 5D can actually use its ISO 1600 and even ISO 3200. In terms of noise level, the Canon EOS 5D still bypasses a lot. (if not all!) cropped cameras, such as Canon 7D, Nikon D300, Pentax K5, Sony SLT-A65 etc.
Canon 5D with booster and Canon Lens EF 50mm 1: 1.4 lens
Canon EOS 5D can shoot at speed 3 frames per second. Some argue that the speed is around 3.5 to \ s. The camera shows in the lower right corner. frame bufferequal to 9 shots (8 frames when using the ISO extended range function), but when shooting in Drive mode, you can take about 17-20 pictures in RAW format until the camera starts to slow down. In JPEG L mode, a series of shots reaches 60 frames. Generally, pretty large real frame buffer I was pleasantly surprised.
But when shooting in RAW + JPEG mode, after filling in the frame buffer, the camera goes into a stupor for a long time. In this mode, the buffer is 12 shots, the camera takes the next frame in only 10-15 seconds, which is an eternity! Using a fast memory card does not solve the problem.
Canon EOS 5D can use RAW (CR2) format only with 12 bit depth of color. RAW (CR2) files average 11 to 19 MB. JPEG L files are 2 to 10 MB on average. Canon EOS 5D uses fast cards CF. My Canon EOS 5D easily made friends with a memory card CF Transcend 32GB 400x and Transcend 32GB 133x.
Important: The data recording speed, which depends on the camera itself, is very low on the Canon EOS 5D and this cannot be corrected by using a faster memory card. One RAW file weighing about 10 MB, the camera records about one second even with the fastest CF cards.
Canon 5D Display
I liked the Canon EOS 5D excellent ergonomicsa, large monochrome backlit secondary display. The camera weighs about 900 grams with the battery and without the lens. Almost a kilogram of weight is not scary. Canon EOS 5D does not have a dust and water resistant body. Camera display 2.5 inch with 230.000 points. When working with the display, I noticed that it reproduces the real color rather poorly in the obtained photos - it is too faded. The camera's menu is quite simple, it is very easy to understand it, in this camera it became available in Russian as well.
Canon EOS 5D supports shutter speeds from 30 s to 1 \ 8000 s. For measuring exposure 35-zone sensor responds, a large number of amateur Canon cameras have a similar sensor, more about it here.
Canon 5D has just 9 focus points (and 6 more invisible auxiliary)... In the Custom Functions menu, I recommend adjusting the focus point selection with the joystick. You can read more about the focusing system installed on the Canon 5D in the 'Canon EOS Camera Focus Sensors'.
But the Canon 5D has a good large optical viewfinder with 96% coverage, working with such a viewfinder is pretty nice. The battery holds up to 1000 shots, which is pretty good.
Sample Photos
All sample photos located in the gallery below were obtained using a Canon EOS 5D camera and lens YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.4. Some photos were taken using a polarizing filter. HOYA 58mm PL-CIR.
Personal experience
Canon EOS 5D can be regarded as used. camera option for people who want to immediately start shooting at full frame. In nature there is no cheaper and more practical option for a full-frame camera. Although, for about the same cost you can find Canon EOS-1DS. Personally, I think Canon EOS 5D is preferable Canon EOS-1DS due to its smaller size, lithium-ion battery, larger display, larger frame buffer, more adequate work with memory cards and, most importantly, more flexible capabilities for processing RAW files.
Among the shortcomings of the Canon EOS 5D, I would like to note the absence of the Live View mode, which is very useful when working with manual optics, and the small number of focus points. At the same time, the camera does not have fine adjustment of automatic focus. True, Canon EOS 5D supports replacement focusing screens.
Many people complain that the camera sensor gets dirty quickly - Canon EOS 5D does not have a matrix cleaning system. Also in the camera no HDR, built-in flash, automatic ISO control in modes P, Av, Tv, M and many modern 'gadgets'. Many photographers have easily and painlessly switched to Canon 5D after crop cameras. Personally, I liked the color rendering of the Canon 5D much more than the color rendering on my 'workhorse' - Nikon D700.
At one time, I made a mistake - instead of Canon EOS 5D (even in the used version) I bought another cropped camera. Now i highly recommend to all novice photographers who are limited in funds and who do not need various 'gadgets', including video filming, instead of buying a 'mediocre' cropped camera, get a used one. Canon EOS 5D (not new). I think that for the growth of a photographer, immediately shooting in full frame is very, very important and useful. If you are looking for some interesting and inexpensive camera with a 'beautiful pattern', then I recommend looking at the 'Legends go to battle', as well as 'Full Frame with 28 megapixels for 240 cu :)'
More examples of photos, as well as source files in RAW format, can be viewed or downloaded in the following reviews:
- In my gallery at 500px
- In the video review
- Yongnuo 35mm 1: 1.4
- YONGNUO LENS YN50mm F1.4
- ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN SMC PENTAX-M 1: 1.7 50mm
- SMC PENTAX 1: 1.8 / 55 ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN
- Canon Zoom Lens EF 20-35mm 1: 3.5-4.5 Ultrasonic (there are examples at high ISO values)
- Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1: 1.4 / 50 ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN
- Canon Macro Lens EF 100mm 1: 2.8 L IS USM
- Carl Zeiss Makro-Planar 1: 2,8 f = 100mm T *
- Carl Zeiss Sonnar 2.8 / 135 T * (C / Y)
- EBC Fujinon.Z 1: 4.5 / 75-150 Fuji Photo Film Co. Lens-japan
- Vivitar 75-205mm 1: 3.8 Close Focusing Auto Zoom
- Hanimex Automatic 1: 2.8 f = 100mm (there are portraits)
- Sigma 70-200mm 1: 2.8 APO EX HSM (portraits available)
- MC Helios-44M-4 58mm 1: 2
- Auto Super-Lentar 1: 2.8 f = 35mm
- Travenar wide auto 1: 2.8 f = 28mm (colorful photos)
- Era-6M 1,5 / 50
- Nippon Kogaku Japan Micro-Nikkor Auto 1: 3.5 f = 55mm
- TAIR-3-FS 4,5 / 300
- Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1: 4 / 200 ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN
- Vivitar 17MM 1:3.5 AUTO WIDE-ANGLDE
- A. Schacht Ulm Edixa-Mat-Travenar-A 1:3,5/135
- Olympus OM-System G.Zuiko Auto-S 1:1.4 f=50mm
- Olympus OM-System E.Zuiko Auto-T 1:2.8 f=100mm
- Olympus OM-System Zuiko MC Auto-W 1:2.8 f=28mm
- Spiratone Tc 1:2.8 f=135mm Japan
- FUJINON 1:1.4/50 FUJI PHOTO FILM CO. LENS-JAPAN
- LEITZ CANADA SUMMICRON-R 1:2/90
- LEITZ WETZLAR SUMMILUX-R 1:1.4/50
Nowadays, the Canon EOS 5D is morally obsolete, but still attracts with its full-frame sensor and affordable price per second. option. Canon 5D only requires full-frame Ef lenses. Canon EOS 5D even nowadays shows a great picture at low ISO. Many appreciate it for its nice color rendering.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
And what color are you guys !!! Such a “thick”, juicy, alive, you look at the photo and just enjoy the color, for this you can forgive him anything, any shortcomings, today he cleaned the matrix himself, with a lens, not crystal clear of course it became, but better than it was, there were no large particles, I also removed the dust on the focusing screen, well, you can see it when you look in the VI it was not pleasant a little. In general, there are only positive emotions from the device, the fact that the model is 10 years old, I did not feel, the only thing that it lacks is auto-ISO, but even then this is a dubious drawback, for rapidly changing shooting conditions and scenes, the patch may seem slow and inconvenient , but for a leisurely, “creative” shooting, “for yourself”, this is the ideal camera. The main thing, it seems to me, is not the functionality and modernity of the model, but the result at the output and here there are no complaints about the patch.
Do I understand correctly that when speaking about the color of the camera, it means Jpeg in the first place? I’m interested in this, if you throw this Jpeg back and shoot only in Raw, will there be a significant advantage to 5D in color over other cameras? In the same AKP, you can wind any color. As an example, I often use various film profiles during processing (even if this is pseudo-imitation). Ultimately, will there be a difference between 5D and something else (let this other one also be full-frame).
In RAW, too, the colors are superb. All in fun in tonal transitions, they are very smooth in the old 5d and the color itself is very pleasant
I don’t think it’s worth opposing ff and crop, I have 5d and 550d (Kiss x4), each for my tasks, from the kenon crop I can recommend 1100d to beginners and that’s all, look at examples at 35photo.ru
Sometimes it is a pity to take a top-end FF camera, for example, shooting a friendly company in a bar, taking a photo walk in the cold, and then the “good old penny” comes to the rescue.
I do not oppose ff crop, I'm talking about color only.
I recently bought myself an A five, upgrading from the 550D. As for me, this is heaven and earth in terms of the resulting picture, convenience and ease of use. I shoot on Industar-61 l / s and I have a question for the owners of the camera - it seemed to me that the camera has difficulties with confirming focus in low light conditions, has anyone encountered this? Could the sensor be dirty or something and therefore have difficulty clinging to? And a question to the dear Arkady, what are the general lighting requirements for phase sensors and are there any tricks on how to focus in the dark?
most cameras have difficulty focusing
For me, on the contrary, in manual mode with confirmation, focusing is more accurate than under the same conditions with autofocus.
Gentlemen, is it worth changing 50D to 5D? I mainly shoot on the manual.
If mainly on the manual, it is better to take a Fujik or Sonya mirrorless.
but five is better than fifty.
Just for the manual, the full frame is better than crop
I choose my first SLR, before that I used the advanced digital zoom for a long time, I mastered the basics of photography, so to speak. Now I am faced with a choice, either Nikon d7000 bu, or this rarity, which costs about the same, but I like the photos from it much more. I plan to photograph for myself, landscapes, family.
For yourself, landscapes and family it is better to take Nikon D5200 from 18-140, or Canon 650d,
or even Fujik X-A2, X-e2, X-m1.
Definitely 5D. Yes, there’s more trouble with it than with more modern cameras, but if the result is important to you, and not the shooting process itself, then there is no alternative.
Well, if you like the photos, then the choice is obvious. I switched to it from 5100, there is the same matrix as in d7000 and I am very pleased with the result. But AF, especially in poor lighting conditions in Nikon is certainly better, plus AF backlighting, it doesn’t have a piglet without an external flash, so I take 5100 with me at dusk))
But how about 5d in terms of ease of use? the same auto focus in normal lighting how it behaves?
Under normal lighting, everything is fine, but with poor lighting here 5100 is definitely ahead, it also has a backlight. Convenience 5D ahead.
For several years now I have only been cleaning my matrices myself - I have never had any problems.
Friend, tell me how and with what to clean, it is very necessary!
I'll come home from work in the evening - I'll see what it's called. There are 4 (maybe 3 or 5, I don’t remember exactly) mops and a small bottle of liquid. About 1 tr. worth it. I have enough, if not for a year, then for half a year for sure.
Now I don't clean at all - I found my ideal lens, which I can't remove from the camera.
Isopropyl alcohol, a lint-free cloth and a plastic card mop.
I clean it with a lens, but honestly it doesn’t really help, the dust is not completely removed.
brought the first guy from the Pindos. mileage is insignificant, about 16 thousand compared to a crop of 600d ff pleases everyone, but you want more. I want to put ml in it and shoot on a balba for 3-5 minutes of exposure. at 600d there is a magic lantern, it pleases, it remains to find a program under 5d and that's it. but about pixels and noise is true. a fat natural pixel is very similar to a film, and if you put expensive good optics, then the plastic on your new 18-24 megapixels will look like I don't know. the photo must be natural. it doesn't matter where it was made, but it should be natural. the time of plastic has passed)) We will also regret that the production of these FF carcasses (5d and d700) has been discontinued ... the world is rolling towards marketing, and not towards quality, as before.
+100500
+100500
60D and 70D Dull G
I agree, now I’m selling my Nikon 5100 with a fifty-fifty to buy a fix for a penny.
4,5 years was the owner of 50d. The last year of the 50s began to create darkness - we climbed out incomprehensible shades in the photo. Sold it. The choice was either a bu 70d, or a new 700d, or a bu 5d - all of them on a budget of $ 500. I decided all the same for 5d, and did not regret it.
I chose from several samples, all were killed in the trash, until I got 1 virgin copy from the states, not a single scratch externally, the mileage of course would still be known, but by sight it is not 20000. the menu suits perfectly. The raves are stretching! Combined with the 85 1,8, it's just super. Of the minuses of the nickel, I will note only one - the screen. He is poor, nothing is clear. Does not convey colors. Autoiso, live view, development in a carcass, xdr, built-in flash to me is useless. Now I sell EF-s lenses and have no regrets. There is no return to the crop.
I apologize, but now the one to whom you sold the 50D will start to write that this device is no good and all that, and not that he bought an expired product ... But everywhere the spattered 50D is not at all such a bad camera, with good lenses it gives up to ISO800 excellent sharpness and detail, as well as colors ... It cannot reach 5D, but for a crop and at its ridiculous price it is very good ...
After a long time using 60 and 70D, only positive emotions, supported by a detailed comparison of the picture. I understood what sharpness is - and in comparison with the second penny (with surprise) to the ball ahead. I clearly saw what a so-called bold pixel is. Achromatic contrast, detail- +!
Over the years, the trick, accustomed to sniping around the central point - there is practically no misses here, which finally felt like a cowboy :-)
I finally realized that I do not have an abnormal tremor of my hands - I can almost double the shutter speed, which is also a plus of a large sensor.
In addition, the fd 135ka here clearly came to life and stopped soaping in the open, but just beautifully soft focus and further delight with sharpness.
Well, as for the cons, it is said in the article and in the comments ... I almost got used to the screen - and taught me to see the exposure and even the color with the eye - here it is more likely not to see, but to transform in my head :-)
In general, after some time, this entire line of pyataks, from the point of view of evolution, will be put on a par, with the advent of new products, every little thing is felt as an innovation, even if later it is understood that what for is a good majority.
tell the piglet DD is wider than fuja 5 pro or not?
It’s unlikely that Fujah almost like d4 has a range due to a cunning matrix. And the pyatak and 12 EV do not
So, in thought, what to take either fuj or kopeck .. Chamber jeepeg on fujik will be better?
I'm crazy about you. Choose between crop for nikon and ff for canon. These are not apples and oranges. This is an airship and a fishing net. Take whatever lenses or flashes are. I'd take a penny if in a vacuum - purely because of ff. Anyway, these dinosaurs will fall apart some day. With Canon, you don't need to reassemble the lenses. And with fuj, cropped sell, ff buy
The logic is iron)) I would take it just for the fact that ff)) from it that the photos are golden or if ff is a masterpiece by click?)) Even now prices are at least $ 500 at least, probably just for those who think if ff is incredibly cool and all photos are a masterpiece by definition
my logic is this: soon both the nickel and the fuj will die - they are already 10 years old. Or want something more, maybe this technique will not be enough for you. You just change the penny to 6d or whatever else is there. And you only replace the fudge with a crop, and it will not be enough. So you have to sit on the crop or change the crop glass for FF. So yes. In such a choice I would take a nickle - then it's easier to live. Well, you can continue to chuckle
+1 to logic.
pfft ... crop - like something bad!
crop is not as bad, but as a clearly less promising direction in development. Poke as much as you like
how little crop can there be? )))) Does it shrink over time to one pixel? ))) I'm more confident that show you 2 identical photos taken from ff and crop, you in your life will not distinguish what was shot, ff or crop, as someone said above, the full frame is more scratching its own CSV, you are not a pack of masterpieces get it only because it is ff, It is to such “logical” comrades that they sell carcasses of ten years ago for half a thousand green minimum. it's a full frame! and nothing that he is 12 years old! and that's interesting about what kind of development speech?
why do you ask then? You all decided about ff and crop .. And about the differences - I can't tell it during the day, but in a room for 1600 or 3200 ISO
In general, clever men have already strangled them with words about hands in the wrong place and about the best camera that is with them. Yes, there is no difference with good lighting. But as soon as you start shooting in bad conditions (and this is basically necessary for work, you can wait for yourself and the operating time) and everything falls into place. I really do not understand, you first ask, and then pour out dismal counterarguments. Are you asking to argue? My logic is not alone - Arkady's opinion is symmetrical. Is he also a “logical comrade”?
Considering that Arkady took with the second camera not at all FF but a crop - your words are funny.
* third or then even * fourth
So then it might initially be correct to ask for what purpose the apparatus is taken? but you categorically stated that crop y and only ff. compared oranges and apples. but the question was, "is the DD patch wider than the fuja 5 pro or not?"
Already.
But not dd single. For example, the pyatak iso 1600 has quite a working one, especially in tight lighting conditions
Well, looking even at the local examples of the photo, it’s impossible to distinguish what the ff or crop is shot at all, in general I look ff as some kind of fitish .. It matters to me what colors will be output at the same time, and not that it's a full wow frame! And then sit and photoshop for half a day. Here in the examples, photos like the color is nothing like that, of all the kenons, usually everything is faded. Nikon D200 is still nothing like that .. Well, Fuj is everywhere praised, but I have not seen comparisons with the nickle, only compared with the ancient kodak that is already impossible to find at all ..
And the quality of the photo does not really depend on the size of the matrix. Especially the final image. But the convenience of obtaining is yes. The two main advantages of ff relative to crop, in my opinion, are thinner DOF and higher working ISO. With DOF, everything is simple - for less money, you can take a less fast lens and get, all other things being equal, the same grip as on a crop with a higher aperture glass. That is, you can save on ff. Well, ISO. Even the ancient 5d iso workers are higher or about the same as the newest crops. I compared d3300 with 5d - a very elusive difference. It's a pity the 5d 3200 limit. But if we compare Fuj s5pro and 5d, then the difference in work at high ISO is noticeable. On c5, even ISO 800 is not always great for me, but on 5d 1600 it is always okay, and 3200 most often without problems. But the dd of c5 is wider. And there is practically no opportunity to pull overexposures in 5d, while in c5 it is easy. As for the camera jpeg, here 5d is not far behind c5pro. Not as colorful and fun, but not as dull as the d5100, for example.
now at least something on the case, atoms of airships, nets and oranges ..
that is, after reading the reviews of these cameras and the article “crop identification” you did not even know about the existence of the facts described by the Pastor?
The pastor expressed his opinion and observations on the use of crop and ff, what are the pros and cons from his point of view, his comedian has more meaning than in your comparison of the airship with a fishing net and fruit))
I still can not understand why thin depth of field is considered an advantage of FF?
Half face out of focus - is that cool?
This is a constant headache!
A face portrait is a special case, if you take a full-length portrait, the whole person will already be in the grip. And facial, when not the whole face is in focus, look good.
http://photo-monster.ru/videolessons/read/v-gostyah-u-mishi-burlatskogo.html
this is an opportunity to more finely control the frame.
I went over 5 carcasses of Fujiks, all of them had broken pixels ((from 10 or more, but in a nickle (I checked a couple of carcasses) for the sake of interest, I looked really not at all ..
By the way no one tried the Kodak SLR? too ff but painfully rare
There is one, I saw it in the photo store, I did not dare to buy it, it was very battered.
Hello. Help solve the following problem: Reflections below (who are not too lazy to read) + unwillingness to part with a large amount for the camera itself (photography is a hobby that I am not going to translate into the profession, so I try to limit the budget) led to the thought: Why not sell your D3100 + cropped glasses , add money and instead take this cheap, outdated Canon eos 5d + already to nim 50mm f1.4 as a staff + sovkovsky park + in the future native fixes 35mm and 135mm. I shot a video on the d3100 for 3 years 1 time for the test ... 90% of all photos in M mode. The only tangible loss is the lack of live view, which is a serious help for focusing manual optics, but in the EOS 5d the viewfinder will be better? Tell me, please, I haven't missed anything important? Is it worth doing such an exchange at all? Morally outdated crop for an even more outdated full frame?))
I have a Nikon d3100 - the 4th year, the lenses are mostly Soviet (they can be easily transferred to another carcass), the other day, reluctantly, I decided to buy my own good glass like 50mm 1.4 nikkor, 35mm 1.4. Sigma. But while the thought of expediency is hindering - some parameters of the camera itself have long been "constrained". Namely, there is a lack of high-speed flash sync, the absence of a motor in the camera covers many interesting lenses. And of course the camera crop - over time it became cramped. They say that 35mm on the crop is about 50, but this is true only for the size of the frame, the lens pattern will be the same as on the FF that on the crop and 35mm will not give better bokeh, less distortion in the center of the frame due to the fact that it has become “like 50mm on the crop ”. In addition, on the same helios 40-2, the crop seriously spoils the raspberry in the form of bokeh, simply “cutting off” the most intense twist, because it falls on the edges of the frame. Even the same Gaelic 44 in comparison with my crop and 5d mark II of a friend gives much less interesting bokeh. We can say that on a 35mm crop the glass gives a picture like 50mm on ff but with all the disadvantages of 35mm without the advantages that fifty dollars should have had.
In addition, I also noticed the influence of the size of the matrix (I won’t say the question can be the quality of the matrix and not the size) on the semitone and volume, especially noticeable in large facial portraits. The sharpness of the same lens, also at full frame, seemed higher.
Dragging the motor, the nickle does not - and “many interesting and inexpensive non-motorized ones” are therefore also absent.
There is no "control of external flashes" either, high-speed - well, if the flash is native too.
So, the nickel camera is interesting, and the full frame, yes. But the lack of an alvue on the manual ones can greatly upset you.
On the other hand - an awl for soap, you can give up if you bother using manuals. But there will be no “tasty and cheap” lenses, alas, Canon is not Nikon for you.
Thanks! I will consider and I will look more closely at d700, avaricious pays twice)
nuuu…. seven hundred will immediately tell you "saw through all Soviet garbage glasses to infinity." and it costs 1,5-2 times more than a penny.
those. “If you just shoot on manuals in your own buzz and inexpensively, without bothering with puffs, then a penny.
If for something more sane, for other lenses, too, for working with off-camera flashes, and so on - then seven hundred or six hundred.
Option 3 - for manual lenses, take a good mirrorless camera - Sony Seven, or Fujik XT10 (not cheap but extremely suitable), or a kid X-M1 with a rotary screen.
I can't take mirrorless cameras seriously, kill me. There may be outdated stereotypes from the days of the first "soap boxes" but ... no. Especially considering that the HT10 is like a bu 700)))
In general, the “penny” was interested in the set with native glasses (maybe some sigma), Soviet plans to gradually displace native fixes (Except that the glasses are almost all with infinity ... for Nikon. Ken has a different working distance!). If without a screwdriver, then you have to take the lenses with a motor, you can put up with something like that. The flash is just a simple one, if only in some cases the shadows are superfluous in a daytime portrait (here with the D3100 and the shutter speed of 200 at an aperture of 1.8, at least some amusement)
As a result, with a nickle I get:
+ Full frame
+ Puff like speedlight with shutter speed up to 1/4000
+ The picture, all other things being equal, is more interesting due to the fact that the matrix is better than on the d3100.
+ Exposure without puff to 1/8000
+ Wireless IR remote for $ 1 with ali will work (?)
+ Viewfinder is better.
+ The camera is a class above.
- No Live
- work with sovkovo manuals
- video (and not even a minus)
- built-in puff
- More noise at high ISO
- My camera is ideally and with the purchase of "Strongly bu" you can get it.
If you haven't missed anything, then the pluses seem to outweigh? There are also options for D90 or D7000 (there is a screwdriver here) - but it certainly sewed on soap (crop to crop - no noticeable progress)
and forgot the cons - cleaning the matrix sometimes.
"I can't take mirrorless cameras seriously, kill me."
pff. And you look at the tests and images from the same Xt10, xt1, with its picking, work in manual modes and huge EVI.
not counting more than professional external settings on wheels as on old film machines and an awesome range of native lenses (it’s only worth it ..) But with puffs they have some kind of plug, alas.
“In general, I was interested in a penny set with native glasses”
- then you have some kind of mess.
As a result, with a nickle I get:
+ Full frame - well, full frame and cho?
+ Puff like a speedlight with a shutter speed of up to 1/4000 - we drag most canons with two (type 60d) and one-letter indices, as well as most nikons except for the “younger series”.
+ All other things being equal, the picture is more interesting due to the fact that the matrix is better than on the d3100. - oh, yes, a bunch of devices with a picture and a matrix are better than those of the d3100
+ Exposure without puff up to 1/8000 - pfff .. most professional nikons (from two hundred or three hundred and beyond) have it.
+ A $ 1 wireless IR remote control will work with Ali (?) - I don't know.
+ The viewfinder is better. - Yes. However, in almost everything, the viewfinder is better than that of the younger crops.
+ The camera is a class higher. - and what? Put a new avatar in kontaktek "I have a new class of SLR"?
- No Liveview - well, no ... my current apparatus does not have it either. Not deadly, although it's a handy thing.
- work with sovkovo manuals - is this a plus ???
- video (and not even a minus) well no, yes ...
- built-in puff - also no, you don't control external native flashes, it's not always convenient, but for a rented studio it doesn't matter.
- More noise at high ISO - ??? in general, it is quite working at the penetration up to 1600 ISO.
- Ideally, my camera, and with the purchase of "Strongly bu" you can get there. —- well, buy a new mark 2 then. ))) Yes, and an ideal, a loose concept.
If you haven't missed anything, then the pluses seem to outweigh? There are also options for D90 or D7000 (here is a screwdriver) - but this is certainly an awl for soap (crop for crop - no noticeable progress) d90 does not work with manual lenses in semi-automatic modes. d7000 works, but it has an ugly skin tone. D200 - here it is interesting, d300s, interesting, although they make a lot of noise on ISO above 800.
I think you yourself do not understand what and why you need to completely.
Hah, 7000 and 3100, sewed on soap, but do not tell
the main sadness of 5d is not even live view. There will be no auto iso - you have to turn it with your hands. And since there will be laziness, they usually set 400 and adjust the exposure. Then it will be a shame to look at the photo with exposure 1/4000 and ISO 400, instead of reasonable ISO 100 and 1/1000. The viewfinder is gorgeous for the top five, but a dandelion is still needed, because on a hole even at 2 you can miss it due to the sharpness of the viewfinder for a hole 2.8. what can we say about 1.4. In short, for manual glasses, a blown or replaceable screen. And do not forget to rearrange the ISO on the fly. And there will be norms. Well, clean the dust))
Hello! I decided to seek advice before putting my recently purchased 5D on the service, in the hope that someone was facing similar problems. The first thing that upset me very much was the soapy, out-of-focus image (photographing people), lens 50 1.4. And on 600d with the same lens there were no problems with sharpness! And the second point - the Speedlite 430EX II does not fire on this camera. I suppose it might be due to the fact that 5D is technically outdated. I would be very grateful for your feedback!
Are you shooting at autofocus? switch to manual focus mode and try to visit by hand. In my midway, such misses on AF are wild, on a manual one, out of 10 photos 9 are right on target. As for the flash, everything works, even the nameless Chinese crafts. Check the flash and camera settings. The camera cannot become outdated, in any way. Is she a map on which objects that actually exist are not marked? No. The camera takes frames, and the 5d camera does it even by the standards of the 15-16th year PERFECT. Despite his age. And do not try to say something like this about antiquity to those who shoot on medium format on film. They will laugh at least. As for the blunders of the camera, a stretched myth. There may be slight malfunctions in the system, but you have eyes - trust them.
Good day! I could not resist, I didn’t pass by, the topic was too interesting for me. For quite a long time I shot with the Canon 650D, the lenses are different, I know well what I can do. But, having grown out of him, the quality of his photo began to categorically displease me. There was a choice. There is enough experience to understand that one pataparat -) everything cannot be removed, and glamor / landscape and movement / sport. Of course, you can buy 1Dx or 5Dm3 at worst and that's the end, they will pull both. And there are funds for this, but I went the other way, I think it was more rational. I am an amateur, i.e. I don't make money by photographing, but I also love beautiful photos. For landscapes, I bought myself an old 5D penny, bought from a dealer in Germany with notorious mileage. I am only interested in the quality of the picture, goodies and bells and whistles that I do not need in the form of life view, auto iso, autofocus adjustment ... 5Dm2 or m3 are not of interest to me. To complete the picture, I purchased a program to expand DD, dynamic range, that's all, for today the theme of landscapes, portraits, sunsets as well as leisurely) sunrises are closed. For sports, and I love this too, birds, animals, I have 1Dm3, perfectly, wonderfully copes with an owl
"For completeness, I purchased a program to expand DD"
And do not tell me what kind of program?
flew off, please forgive ...
perfectly copes with its task, completely. Moreover, the latter can be nature, the only minus weight and a small crop, the angle is not so wide. Depending on the tasks I take either 5D or 1D.
Canon EOS 5D + Helios 44-2 58mm f / 2