A good focusing system on the camera is the key to correct and fast focusing.
Focus systems on Nikon cameras
Nikon DSLR instructions usually indicate that the camera can only work with lenses with a maximum effective aperture of F / 5,6 or higher. That is, the use of many cameras with a lens with a maximum aperture of F / 6.3 will already be difficult. This is due to the fact that with a smaller aperture, for example, with F / 11, the lens gives a weak luminous flux and the focusing module simply cannot normally focus.
I met a lot of complaints that the focus system of many cameras, such as Nikon D90, D3000, 'freezes' when using dark lenses such as Nikon 70-300mm f / 4.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkorin low light. This is not surprising, since at maximum focal lengths, the maximum aperture on the lens becomes F / 5.6 (the maximum for a particular focusing system) and the camera does very poorly with focus.
For focusing in the camera meets a complex set of devices, which are usually called focusing system. Focus system uses additional mirror for redirection of a light stream from lens to self focus sensor. Where is this focus sensor in the Nikon CLC can see here... Nikon focus sensors are commonly referred to as'Multi cam'.
The focus sensor focuses only on specific points (areas) in the frame. For example, if a camera has 11 focus points, this means that it can focus only on the fact that those points are 'seen'. If you delve into the intricacies of the work, I will add that the focusing system is closely related to metering system and has its own sophisticated algorithms.
Focus points linear and cruciform... Linear points come in vertical and horizontal orientation. Dots with horizontal orientation focus well on subjects with vertical lines. Vertical dots focus well on subjects with horizontal lines. Cross-shaped dots (zones) have both vertical and horizontal components at the same time and do better at focusing, especially in low-light conditions and in conditions with complex compositions. For example, when focusing a scene 'wires against a blue sky', the cross points should focus better than the line ones. Usually all cruciform dots are in the center of the frame... To understand more about the work of points and the Nikon focusing system in general, I recommend my article 'Focusing on Nikon Cameras'.
Below is a label where you can find all of the Nikon focus modules and cameras that use them. For the sake of this tablet, I did this article.
| Module | Total points | Cr | (f / 5.6-f / 8.0) | [f / 8.0] | EV range | List of cameras with this module |
| Advanced AM200 |
1 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
-1 to +19 | Nikon E2, E2S, E2N, E2NS, E3, E3S + Fujifilm Fujix DS-505, DS-515, DS-505A, DS-515A, DS-560, DS-565, Fujifilm FinePix S1 Pro |
| Multi-cam 530 |
3 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
-1 to +19 | D40, D40x, D60 |
| Multi-cam 900 |
5 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
-1 to +19 | D100, D70, D70s, D50 + Fujifilm FinePix S2 Pro, Fujifilm FinePix S3 ProFujifilm FinePix S3 Pro UVIR, Kodak Professional DCS Pro 14n (and its modifications), Kodak Professional DCS Pro SLR / n (and its modifications) |
| Multi-cam 1000 |
11 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
-1 to +19 | D200, D80, D90, D3000, D5000, D3100, D5100, D3200, D3300, D3400, D3500 + Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro, Fujifilm FinePix IS Pro |
| Multi-cam 1300 |
5 |
3 |
0 |
0 |
-1 to +19 | D1, D1h, D1x |
| Multi-cam 2000 |
11 |
9 |
0 |
0 |
-1 to +19 | D2h, D2hs, D2x, D2xs |
| Multi-cam 4800DX |
39 |
9 |
0 |
0 |
-1 to +19 | D7000, D5200, D5300, D5500, D5600 |
| Multi-cam 4800FX |
39 |
9 |
33 |
7 |
-1 to +19 | D600, D610,Df |
| Multi-cam 3500DX |
51 |
15 |
0 |
0 |
-1 to +19 | D300, D300s |
| Multi-cam 3500FX |
51 |
15 |
0 |
0 |
-1 to +19 | D700, D3, D3s, D3x |
| Advanced Multi-cam 3500DX |
51 |
15 |
1 |
1 |
-2 to +19 | D7100 |
| Advanced Multi-cam 3500FX |
51 |
15 |
15 |
11 |
-2 to +19 | D4,D4s, D800,D800E, D810,D810a |
| Advanced Multi-cam 3500Fx ii |
51 |
15 |
15 |
11 |
-3 to +19 | D750, D780 |
| Advanced Multi-cam 3500Dx ii |
51 |
15 |
1 |
1 |
-3 to +19 | D7200, D7500 |
| Multi-cam 20K |
153 (55) |
99 (35) |
37 |
15 (9) |
-4 to +19 | D500, D5, D850 |
| Multi-cam 37K |
105 |
105 |
? |
15 |
-4.5 to +20 | D6 |
| Hybrid system for Z6 |
273 |
- | ? | ? | -4 to +19 LLF | Nikon z6 |
| Hybrid system for Z6 |
273 |
- | ? | ? | -4.5 to +19 LLF | Nikon z6 ii |
| Hybrid system for Z7 |
493 |
- | ? | ? | -4 to +19 LLF | nikon z7, Nikon z7 ii |
| Hybrid system for Z50, Zfc |
209 |
- | ? | ? | -4 to +19 LLF | Nikon z50, ZfcMore |
| Hybrid system for Z50 |
273 |
- | ? | ? | -3 to +19 | Nikon z5 |
| Hybrid system for Z9 |
493 |
- | ? | ? | -8.5 to +19 LLF | Nikon z9 |
As you can see, Nikon CCDs use 3, 5, 11, 39, 51 or 55 focus points. The choice of sensors is not very large. The table includes digital SLR cameras Fujifilm FinePix, Fujifilm Fujix and Kodak Professional DCS, which were built on the basis of Nikon cameras with Nikon F mount and other Nikon internals, including those with Nikon focus modules. Also included Nikon quasi-full-format digital SLR cameras.
No need to confuse multi-cam 2000 on cameras D2h, D2hs, D2x, D2xs with multi-cam 1000 on other cameras. Often confused, since both Multi-CAM modules have the same number of focus points, only Multi-CAM 2000 uses 9 cross points, and multi-cam 1000 just one cruciform point. D2 Series cameras have excellent focus frame coverage, use focus on D2h, D2hs, D2x, D2xs very very comfortable and nice.
Interesting, but actually multi-cam 3500DX on cameras D300 и D300s Is the same Multi-CAM 3500FX on cameras D700, D3, D3s, D3x. True, on cameras D300, D300s the module provides just a chic frame coverage with focus points, and on full-frame cameras D700, D3, D3s, D3x all focus points are in the DX area of the image.
Multi cam 4800DXwhich is used on D7000, D5200, D5300, D5500 different from multi-cam 4800FXwhich is available at Nikon D600, D610, Df in that Multi-CAM 4800DX can only work with lenses no darker than F / 5.6.
Nikon D600, D610 and Df can use 33 center points focusing with lenses with aperture from F / 5.6 to F / 8.0. And at F / 8.0 it is responsible for focusing 7 center points focusing. Nikon D600, D610 and Df has a small coverage of the frame by focusing points, since roughly speaking it uses the focusing module from a cropped camera Nikon D7000.
Difference in frame coverage areas
Advanced Multi cam 3500FX different from regular multi-cam 3500FX and multi-cam 3500DX so that cameras using the updated module can focus at aperture values up to F / 8.0. Advanced Multi cam 3500FX can work with 15 center points focusing at aperture value from F / 5.6 to F / 8.0. And at F / 8.0 they are responsible for focusing 11 points.
Advanced Multi cam 3500DX different from regular multi-cam 3500DX and multi-cam 3500FX the fact that cameras using the updated module (so far this is only Nikon D7100), can focus at aperture values up to F / 8.0. Advanced Multi cam 3500DX can work with one central focus point with aperture value from F / 5.6 to F / 8.0 inclusive.
Little conclusion: Advanced Multi cam 3500DX worse Advanced Multi cam 3500FX in that FX can operate at low aperture values of F / 5.6-F / 8.0 using 15 focus points, and DX can only use one focus point at F / 5.6-F / 8.0. Advanced Multi cam 3500FXII differs from Advanced Multi cam 3500FX different range of illumination values, 3500FXII one stop better (works from -3 / -4 to +19 EV)
Cropped camera Nikon D500 uses exactly the same Multi-CAM 20K focusing module as used in the top Nikon D5 camera. It is indicated that the Multi-CAM 20K has 153 focus points, but only one of the 55 can be manually selected. Apparently, the remaining points are auxiliary.
The ability to focus at low F values is very popular when working with teleconvertersthat lower aperture a bunch of lens + teleconverter.
Please note that this is the maximum value of the relative aperture (aperture value F), and not the value apertureon which shooting will be made. Focusing is always carried out with the aperture fully open, and it must be taken into account.
Personal experience
With good lighting and simple scenes, it is quite difficult to notice the difference between the cross-shaped points and the ordinary ones. But the coverage area of the frame is quite important, especially when dynamically tracking moving objects. Well, if on simple cameras like Nikon D3100, D5000 has few points, then you can use the Live View mode, which allows you to get an uncountable set of them and focus on any of them :)
Conclusions
The best focusing system available on cameras D6, Z9... Due to the fact that the focus module is a complex device, many cameras use the same focusing systems, over time Nikon's 'junior cameras' use modules from the 'older cameras'.
Mirrorless Cameras Z5, Z6, Z6 II, Z7, Z7 II, Z9 + Z50, Zf have a slightly different focusing principle. In general, their focusing capabilities are also very good.
Additionally, you can look at the article "Focus Sensors for Canon EOS Cameras".
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Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Thank you for the article.
I haven’t read about it anywhere, but I practically concluded that linear sensors are horizontal and vertical (this can also be seen in the shape of the focus areas in the viewfinder), which slightly affects focusing.
Tsіkava article for vlasnikіv nikon, although I was honored. І zavdyaki tsіy statі Winiklo bazhannya poshukati netі skіlki dots i yakih in my camera. Poshukav i Nayshov 5 focus points and all five crosses (:
Good article ! Thanks ! I would like to clarify for normal focusing does the aperture set on the camera matter, or does the actual aperture on the lens mean? If the aperture of the lens is important for reliable focusing, then fast aperture zooms (constant f2,8) are logically faster in focusing compared to lenses with f3,5-5,6. Although (!) Fixes (for example, a fifty-fifty f1,4G) are really slower to focus (and re-focus) compared to 24-70 f2,8 for example.
And for some reason, it’s really strange that in the Nikon D600 (FX cameras) focus areas are the same as in the Nikon D7000. Although on the D7000, even the extreme corner (non-cross) focus areas allow you to focus with your native f1,4G fifty dollars even in dynamic scenes.
This refers to the actual maximum aperture value on the lens. All modern cameras focus when the aperture is fully open and close it to the value set on the camera only at the time of shooting.
Focus speed and focusing accuracy are different things. Fifty uses f / 1.4 to focus at this aperture, the usual focus points work well too.
I don’t have a good idea of how it all works technically, but I’m just wondering ... What about chromatic aberrations on such diaphragms? Or is it all taken into account, and therefore focuses slowly? Just on one of the forums (http://forum.photokaravan.com/default.aspx?g=posts&t=698) write that Nikon autofocus is set to f / 5.6. Or is this the case when you should not go to the forums? =)
Better take a look here - https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/12/nikon-multicam-all/
Yes, this is a link to the same page =) I read everything carefully, but I'm not interested in covering the frame with the focus points, but the aperture at which the focus occurs. You wrote in the comments that the camera focuses on the maximum open aperture. Others write that Nikon’s autofocus sensors are set to f / 5.6, regardless of aperture. Where is the truth? I'm just curious to know what affects the accuracy of autofocus. High-speed lenses are said to have more accurate autofocus. If we take into account that autofocus works on a completely open aperture, what about chromatic aberration, front / back focus, etc.? Does this mean that aperture gives autofocus more benefits than harming aberration, etc.?
Modern lenses have a fairly good CA control, and the focusing system in certain cases is much better at working with such lenses. A huge number of photographers shoot at open apertures and have a perfectly suitable picture for their tasks. As for the fact that they are rigidly attached to 5,6 - I consider it complete nonsense.
Just look at the lens while focusing, and you will see that it uses a fully open aperture.
Clear.
Thanks for the interesting article!
But one question remained unclear: are there Nikon AF sensors for high-sensitivity lenses with fast lenses with F / 2.8 and higher?
The presence of such sensors allows you to stay within the depth of field at F / 2.8, while the standard sensor corresponds to F / 5.6, even if the real aperture is higher.
For EOS Kenon cameras, such sensors with an enlarged base for the F / 2.8 aperture are usually located in the center, except for the most initial models.
Arkady, thanks for the article. The last comment clarified the term maximum aperture. I have long been interested in this question, because the instructions for the camera usually write the range of effective apertures for the focus module, but the principle of operation was not clear. It is necessary to clarify the term maximum effective aperture at the beginning of the article.
“… At F / 11 the lens gives a weak light flux and the focusing module simply cannot focus properly” Here, I think, your last comment should be included in the article.
Already managed to make in table 7100, here it is efficiency!
There are also descriptions of Advanced Multi-CAM 3500DX and there is a comparison)
Please tell me which cameras have autofocus adjustment for the lens,
to fix the brek-front focus, on Nikon.
Thank you in advance.
D300 D300s D700 D800 D800E D600 D7000 D7100 D3 D3x D3s D4
Arkady, thanks for the article, it is very useful not only for beginners. I believe that the competent, confident work of the photographer with the autofocus system of his camera is one of the main components of the success of photography.
Arkady, I wanted to know the planned review of the D7100?
It all depends on whether someone will provide me with a camera for review.
Arkady, I do not see a single cross-shaped focus point in my D5000. All 11 points in the viewfinder look like rectangles))
They should look ordinary. The cross-shaped sensor, which is responsible for the point, it is simply customary to write that the point is also cross-shaped.
Arkady, a question for you as an experienced D700 user.
Today I ran into a problem with a one-time focus mode (middle switch position). Select 51 points.
In two situations, a strange thing happens.
At the high contrast transition of the window, it is literally dark and light (the transition to the camera’s DD is included) and in simple contrast, white and black, on the door jamb.
Illumination is moderate, light from the window, not direct sunlight, at about noon.
In the vertical direction, only 15 points work confidently including the central one. Three columns of 5 rows (central area). The rest just crawl.
But when the camera is tilted 45-50 degrees in any direction, the points worked uncertainly, function correctly.
* so the rest, those that are not in the center, not cruciform.
In the horizontal direction, all points work more than confidently.
My conclusion, the cross points are only those in the center.
D700 camera, 50 1.8G lens, firmware extreme 1.02, 1.03.
Your opinion, I don’t understand something or is everything right?
All right. https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/12/nikon-multicam-all/
Thank you.
Forgiveness forgiveness, I completely blossomed, I didn’t read it, everything was on the surface.
If you are fueled by a lofty character, I’m less likely to have a Nikon D7000 camera, I’ve got a better comment on the focus on the camera for D90, judging from your table, it’s technically impossible to fix the focus on the D7000, it’s more efficient
So how do we compare the D7000 with the D7100, is it okay to overpay 3 thousand for a new focus and video at 60fps? What are the reasons why the D7100 has no “anti-aliasing filter” What characteristic is it poured into the photo?
Filter є, filters of the type)
In my opinion, autofocus in the 7100 works at the center point much worse than the 7000.
It was checked on 2 cameras by different people. I didn't believe it until I tried it myself. Creeps, but does not induce even in normal light, not to mention the darkness ...
Has anyone come across?
Thank you for the article! Does anyone have infa, which of the points of the focusing system are cross-shaped? Interested in where they are with the Multi-CAM 3500. In other words, which points are better to use in order to achieve better focusing accuracy.
good day.
in me camera nikon d90.
Activative:
-nіkkor 50 mm 1,8 d
-tamrun 17-50 mm 2,8 (without stub)
-nіkkor 80-200 2,8 units
-helios 44-2 58 mm 2,0
spalach sb-700
synchronizers Yongnuo YN-622N
I photograph in the main weight, urochistі podії. I want onovity technology, and the very new camera.
for an hour, I need a camera for an hour, but I need a camera, in which in Persian - a quick autofocus, in a different way - the ability to know about high ISO, on the third - you need to be able to adjust the focus) (start to use the front
I stand in front of the vibor at once - d7100 chi d610. d90 I will definitely play it.
1.variant d7100 - I fill all the lines, save a penny
2. option d610 - I add a wide cut. then you will have to buy an asset. (hocha d90 on pіdstrakhovtsі)
ale pitannya polyagaє in that, more beautifully, as a result, will I paint the picture as a result? Chi Warto buy a new frame?
“This is due to the fact that at a smaller aperture, for example, at F / 11, the lens gives a weak luminous flux and the focusing module simply will not be able to focus normally” - it’s not a weak light flux (otherwise, on a bright sunny day, the limitation would be different) , and in the angles of divergence / convergence of rays. Such a feature of the principle of operation of phase autofocus ... that's why they make different sensors for different apertures.
It seemed to me that the discussion about the effect of the aperture on autofocus is not entirely correct.
Therefore, let me quote a well-known resource http://www.vlador.com/info/просто-об-автофокусе/, on which it is quite simply said about the principles of phase autofocus:
“Phase detection autofocus is based on the principle that, outgoing / reflected from a point in focus, the beams will equally illuminate the opposite sides of the lens (“ will be in phase ”). If the lens is focused in front of or behind this point, these light rays pass through the edges of the lens differently (“out of phase”).
Most existing phase detection autofocus systems use mirrors, lenses, or prisms (beam splitters) to split beams passing through opposite edges of the lens into two beams; and a secondary lens system to re-focus those beams on the AF sensor. This sensor detects where light beams are falling through opposite edges of the lens. If the point is in focus, the beams hit the sensor at a certain distance from each other. If the lens is focused closer or farther than the desired point, the distance between these beams will be less or more. ”
It is clear that the further these areas (zones) are located on the lens, the more accurate the autofocus system will work. However, lenses come in with different lens diameters and different, respectively, aperture. Therefore, we agreed to consider the standard (naturally, relative) distance between opposite zones on the lens to be equal to the diameter of the lens with aperture of f / 5.6. Then it’s clear that on lenses with a lower aperture, the light from the areas that the AF sensors are aimed at will simply not hit the lens and it will simply scour. On more powerful lenses than f / 5.6, it would be possible to increase the accuracy of autofocus, but the standard is in the way. Therefore, they began to come up with improved autofocus systems, placing additional sensors and focusing on them beams from the extreme zones of such lenses.
This is my IMHO.
I am interested in the question of the accuracy of the sensors of the autofocus systems of Nikon cameras. There is information about Kenon cameras, about which they write that autofocus should fall into the DOF, and in more advanced cameras even in 1/3 of DOF. I didn't have to read such information about Nikon. I am interested in comparing my Nikon D5100 with other models of Nikon and other brands, since I almost always want to be the best, even with a fast prime. It seems to me that an accurate autofocus system is not as important as the sharpness of the lens itself, since what good is this lens if it is not fully used. At the same time, there is a lot of information about the lenses, and almost nothing about the accuracy of autofocus systems.
in practice, the autofocus of the nikon d800 (d700 d600) is an order of magnitude !!! slower and worse than nikon d3 (d4) and other professional DSLRs. although in theory the module is "the same" ... alas.
I’m not saying anything, but as a photographer with 15 years of experience and a very large fleet of cameras.
As a photographer with almost 10 years of experience, and as the owner of Nikon D700 and Nikon D3S, I will say that there is no tangible difference, let alone 10x, in autofocus operation. There are very big differences in the operation of the autofocus of a new camera, and a used one for several years, which are manifested in the fact that when shooting at 1.4, for example, with an 85mm lens, the camera “holds” the subject (AF-C focus mode), or its “ rips off ”, or it“ rattles ”near the focal point instead of standing dead. At one time I compared the almost new D3S and the 4-year-old D700, on the D700 the autofocus was noticeably worse. After purging the AF sensors (when repairing the shutter), it got much better, although not as accurate as the new one. Then a similar situation was with D3S
Good afternoon!!! Maybe a really super stupid question. Where is the focusing speed faster - in cameras with a “screwdriver” or in a camera without, but the lens is naturally with a motor? And will a motorized lens work on a camera with an "overturn"
AF speed is more dependent on the lens than on the camera. A lens with a built-in focus motor will work on any camera.
Arkady, when manually adjusting the lens according to the indicator, does the focus accuracy depend on the focus module used or does it work only in the machine?
When manually frucing is better to use LiveView
with manual focus, the quality of the frame depends on the block but it only works manually
the question was not about that
The autofocus system comes into operation when you press the shutter button halfway. Also, on some devices there is a special autofocus activation button. The focus module tells the camera how far the lens needs to focus in order to get a sharp image at the selected point. To do this, a special motor is launched, which moves the lens of the lens, aiming for sharpness.
All the same, questionable information about the range of autofocus. The d3100 and d700 have the same range from minus 1 to plus 19. As the owner of both, I can say for sure - d3100 in the dark focuses on the word “no way”. At 6, it is also not a demon of focus, but clearly better. Took to drive 3d from canon - there is minus 6 declared. There may be a difference with the 600, but I did not notice it. At the same time, there is a video on the network, where 1d in dXNUMX (also up to minus XNUMX) wins in terms of focus in the dark. It can be clearly seen there. In short, all of these response ranges can and do reflect something, but definitely not the quality of focus.
I will support.
For example, on the D200 and D5100 there is the same, logically, Multi-CAM 1000 focusing system, but the two-hundredth compared to the D5100 focuses simply megastremely and very accurately.
Good day. Recently I bought a Nikon AF-S lens Nikkor 55-200 1: 4-5,6G ED VR (I use nikon D5100) and noticed that it stops focusing at the maximum FR of 200, the motor works but to nothing, the focus stops. Then I turn the FR somewhere up to 135 and again begins to focus on norms. And this is also noticed on the street. Do you think this is normal for such a bunch of lens + carcass? Or maybe what you can pay attention to determine if the lens is possibly defective?
Thank you!
Hello. No, this is not normal - I myself have such a bundle, there are no problems. And also on d200, d40x. If possible, return the lens to your dealer or service.
the lens is exactly defective. If it is possible to return, return it. If not, try wiping the lens contacts - chances are it will help. If it doesn't help, then disassembly and repair, or just buying a new lens. Faced such a problem on Canon 18-135.
Yes, all the same, I also tend to marry. The motor is running with a bad sound. Campaign gears broke teeth. I will return. Thanks!