For the opportunity Nikon D3s Camera Review many thanks to the project Photo rental.com.ua.
Nikon D3s Review
Nikon D3s Is a professional full-frame flagship reportage camera, that says it all. The camera was released in the fall of 2009, two years after the first full-frame Nikon D3.
Sample photo on Nikon D3s
The main feature of the Nikon D3s is a matrix with very low noise at high ISO. Even after the release Nikon D4 Nikon D3s camera remains one of the best for working in poor lighting conditions. Nikon D3s has a 12.87MP sensor at its disposal, of which only 12.1MPforming images 4256 on 2832 pixels (totaling 12.052.992 pixels in total). Exactly the same number of megapixels have cameras Nikon D3 и Nikon D700.
Nikon D3s uses Nikon's proprietary matrix. Often lovers think that in all three chambers Nikon D3, D700 and D3s use the same matrix, but it’s not, Nikon D3s use modified matrix from Nikon D3 и D700which really works much better at high ISOs. I can judge this from personal experience with Nikon D700 and Nikon D3s. Although the development of the sensor is Nikon's business, the sensor is manufactured at the SONY factory (information may not be accurate). Nikon D3s uses a sensor codenamed Nikon NC81361A, and the two previous models Nikon D700 и D3 use Nikon NC81338L. Letter 'S' in the name of the camera, Nikon D3s just talks about finalizing the camera Nikon D3True, other cameras Nikon D300 / D300s, Nikon D70 / D70s, Nikon D2h / D2hs, Nikon D2x / D2xs in the first and second versions use exactly the same matrix, therefore, I separately dwelled on this feature of Nikon D3s.
Nikon D3s camera sensor can work at ISO 200 – 12,800 and the range can be extended to ISO 100. (called Lo1), and before ISO 102,400. (called Hi3). For example, full-frame cameras Nikon D3, D700, D800,D800E, D600 can only squeeze ISO 25600, which is 4 times lower than the limit value of Nikon D3s. Nikon D3x generally has a maximum ISO of 6400 (Hi 2 mode).
Photo on Nikon D3s
Only high ISO speeds for Nikon D3s Nikon D4, which is a new round of development of this line Nikon D4 accelerates ISO to 204,800 (Hi4), such an ISO figure is also 2 times higher than the ISO limit for Nikon D3s. Although the base ISO limit for Nikon D3s and D4 the same - 12.800. Important Noticee - the limiting ISO values very poorly reflect the real picture of the noise level, it is rather difficult to navigate by them, a more real picture in terms of the noise level can be viewed here.
Example photo on Nikon D3s
Before the release Nikon D4 the Nikon D3s camera could be safely called best reporting camera. Nikon D3s can shoot at speeds:
- 9 frames per second in FX mode (full-format mode), and in 5: 4 and 1.2x crop modes.
- 11 frames per second in DX mode (in cropped mode), while the image size is reduced to 5.1MP (2784 by 1848 pixels)
Believe me, the speed of 11 k / s is just an incredible achievement. The Nikon D3 predecessor has exactly the same continuous shooting speed. True, for such a huge shooting speed, a good frame buffer. Frame buffer - is one of the most important indicators of camera performance.
Sample photo on Nikon D3s
The buffer is
- 35 frames per RAW (NEF) out depending on compression level or color depth, when additional settings are disabled, such as noise reduction at slow shutter speeds, noise reduction at high ISO, ADLauto ISO
- 14 frames per RAW (NEF) regardless of the compression level and color depth, with all of the above additional settings turned on.
So 35 RAW frames at a speed of 9k \ s can provide continuous shooting in the best quality for as long as 6 seconds. Such a continuous shooting duration does not have any camera level lower.
Example photo on Nikon D3s
According focusing module Multi-CAM3500FX on 51 focus points, 15 of which are cruciform. About focusing on Nikon cameras in more detail here. The same focus module is used by all professional full-frame cameras from Nikon - D3, D3x, D700, D800, D800E, D3s (from this review) and Nikon D4. Nikon D600 refers to amateur full-frame cameras and uses a simpler focusing system from Nikon D7000. It’s a pity, but since the release of the Nikon D3 Multi-CAM3500FX has undergone only minor changes to Nikon D4where it can focus lenses with apertures up to f / 8. Of course, 51 points is a lot, but all focus points are in the DX area of the image. The same module called Multi-CAM3500DX is used on camera Nikon D300, D300s and there the coverage area is just wonderful, as the focus points cover the entire viewfinder. Focus speed is very dependent on the lens used. Focusing methods have several operating modes for use in various conditions.
Photo at Nikon D3s at high ISO
Of course, as befits a professional camera, the Nikon D3s has fine focus adjustment (focus adjustment), which is very useful when using lenses with rear or front focus. I really run into the flaws of the optics and focus adjustment is a very nice feature. The camera's viewfinder covers everything 100% coverage frame that is missing in the Nikon D700. Of course, in Live View, contrast focusing is available.
Nikon D3s is Nikon's first full-frame camera with the ability to shoot video. Of course, video is not the best horse of the camera, and the maximum quality that it supports is 720p AVI (Motion-JPEG) 1280 × 720 at 24 fps You can set the video to 640 × 424 at 24 fps and to 320 × 216 at 24 fps
Example photo on Nikon D3s
Display the camera has a large, 3-inch on 921.000 points. The same (or very similar) display can be found on Nikon D3, D3x, D700, D300, D300s, D90, D7000, D3200, D5100 and D5200.
Ergonomics. The optical viewfinder has a green information panel not only from below, but also to the right. The camera is equipped with an additional handle for portrait shooting, this handle is very convenient and helps to quickly switch from the landscape normal orientation of the camera to portrait orientation. For simpler cameras, a special battery pack (booster) is required, which acts as such a handle. Due to the huge size of the camera, a rather large and capacious battery is placed in it, which can squeeze out very, very many pictures on a single charge.
Example photo on Nikon D3s
In general, all controls are brought to their right places. Nikon D3s has two additional monochrome displays. One in the usual place on top of the camera, and the other under the main large display. Through additional displays, you can quickly adjust the basic functions of the camera, they do not lose their contrast in bright sunlight, do not consume the battery and are very convenient to use. True, Nikon D3s does not have a built-in flash, for me this is a slight inconvenience, since the built-in flash is a free trigger based on the system Nikon CLS.
Sample photo on Nikon D3s. High ISO photos.
Two slots for memory cards CF with different settings for shooting on two memory cards. My Nikon D3s made friends with 32GB memory cards without any problems. Measurement exposure It is based on a 1005-pixel RGB sensor, 3D Color Matrix Metering II works flawlessly. Most likely the same 1005-pixel metering sensor exposure also available in Nikon D3, D3x, D700, D300, D300s, D2x, D2xs, D2h, D2hs, D200.
Nikon D3s has a focus motor and allows you to use AF lenses. The camera needs FX lenses, with DX lenses the camera can work in a special cropped DX mode. Of course, Nikon D3s works with manual optics without any problems, you can find more details in the section on AI-S.
Example photo on Nikon D3s. When filmed for review, pretty frozen.
Nikon D3s has many settings and features, about which you can write a very, very long time:
- ADL, various image management modes, image processing menus, in particular RAW
- Vignetting control
- Matrix self-cleaning system
- Bracketing exposure, BB.
- Virtual horizon
- Weatherproof, however, if only used with weatherproof lenses.
- Shutter withstand 300.000 operations
- Live View
- Special connectors for controlling the camera and external light, USB and HDMI outputs
Example photo on Nikon D3s. Test hours Radozhiva.
Personal experience
The Nikon D3s is simply a chic camera, really made for professionals. The camera is very responsive to any reaction, with instant activation. The shutter does not work loudly. I do not recommend chasing the flagship Nikon D3, D4 line of cameras, as it requires considerable photography skills to unlock their potential. After an hour of working with Nikon D3s, I don’t want to part with it. Nikon D3s loses a little in terms of dynamic range Nikon D3x, D800, D800E, but these cameras have slightly different tasks. Whether it is worth changing Nikon D3, Nikon D700 to Nikon D3s, everyone must decide for himself. I believe that Nikon D3s - one of the best cameras from Nikon.
Sample Photos on Nikon D3s
All photos in this review were shot on Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 85mm 1: 1.4G and Nikon D3s, on-camera JPEG L High, VI, SD. No processing, reduced size to 3MP, imprinted data from EXIF.
If you are facing a camera choice, then in Photo rental.com.ua You can rent one of the cameras in real conditions, and not by reviews, to find out all its capabilities.
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions
Nikon D3s - professional full frame camera, will good helper in the hands of a photojournalist and in any tasks that create a heavy load on the camera, including for wedding photography and for shooting sports. The camera attracts low noise at high ISO. I recommend.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Took d3s in 2016 with 16k mileage and excellent condition, buzz, dominate and humiliate !!!
At first I wanted d810, but the skill guys advised d3s and I do not regret a drop!
NEFS of this camera need to be processed in Nx-2
If your shooting day is worth ... eleven thousand euros, then you can slowly poke around in Nx. In general, the D3s has a very good color!
I have such a friend d4 so it seems to me D3S does the FOUR on microcontrast and color
It was possible to take inexpensive D3s with low mileage.
Sensations after the D700:
1) "Screwdriver" is faster!
2) AF is faster and faster.
3) ISO 2500 without noise reduction looks much better than the horror that was on the D700 (also without noise reduction).
4) At high ISOs, the picture does not fade as much as on the D700.
5) Ergonomics class!
6) The ability to use two CFs at once.
7) 64GB 1000x flash drives without problems.
8) Machine gun
But there is one BUT - the DD is the same as on the D700.
Good afternoon, please advise :) I have a Nikon B7100, but there was an opportunity to change it to Nikon 3Ds with significant mileage, is it worth changing my 7100 to an old full frame?
Angelina:
Watching what you use the camera for.
D3s is a big old heavy machine gun.
This is a good camera, but for reporting in poor lighting conditions in all weather conditions.
D3s will require appropriate lenses and not the fact that what you have for the D7100 is suitable for full-frame D3s.
D3s is definitely not worth buying for shooting “me and my family / cat / dog”, “me and a palm tree” etc. etc.
This is a camera for work and for making money with it. Moreover, finding well-groomed D3s in good condition is now very difficult.
I also faced this dilemma. Change my still very good 7000 for a full frame. It is in order to make money. In the process of these fluctuations, I bought one unique manual lens and 2 professional lenses for a full frame. I use them on crop right now, but they are eager for a full frame battle. Now that I have decent optics for both crop and full format, I do not want to change my crop for anything. This is a very good camera on the subject and macro, well, if you do not want to carry a heavy bag for a not very serious shooting (serious, I explain, this is when you can not go back and shoot). And for serious shootings, one camera is not enough. So, do not change, but save for the second camera. You can’t imagine how nice it is to have 2 cameras on a trip! And it’s not so difficult if you approach the issue creatively. I am also a woman and, I think, older than you, it hurts there, it hurts here, but when there is an interesting shoot, nothing hurts, you run around like a girl. And about weight, a bunch of 80-200 2,8 with any carcass is WEIGHT, you just need to be friends with the gym.
“You can't imagine how good it is to have 2 cameras on a trip! And it's not so hard if you approach the issue creatively. "
If all this is a disgrace to carry in one sports bag (so that you can then put it on the shelf on the plane, and not put it in your luggage) and plus a bag on wheels weighing about 25 kg ...
2 carcasses - one with a butblock, the other - ff weighs like a crop with a butblock and rather heavy glasses like Sigma 35 / 1.4.
Okay, there’s just a hotel with a beach.
This is how I went and next time I’ll think about what to take with me. A bag (bags) with photographic equipment requires attention, a bag on wheels also requires attention, you always think about a wallet, passports and a / b ...
So it’s not up to you at the gym, but that the rest should remain the rest.
And each one has his own. For example, I like active travel around a foreign country, light, for my two, by public transport.
Tatiana, good to you! I also have Nikon D7000. And I also want FF. And I have a question: what kind of FF lenses did you buy? Thank.
You are absolutely right. On a trip, my electronics, photos, videos and laptop need a normal one to analyze RAW, it takes all the hand luggage, 10 kg. And in the hotel it is desirable that there was a safe, well, or have a suitcase with a normal lock. A hotel, preferably not a bedbug, is the cheapest. Once, in Dusseldorf it was, I was left on the street alone, hung with all this optics. In broad daylight, in the city center, citizens of suspicious appearance, such as in Moscow, have already begun to pester me, for example, the police stop at every intersection. Traveling light, sleeping in a tent, this is with a soap box. In addition, traveling is always better together, I even know the person who chose his wife, given this condition. I am a photographer, my task is to fix the maximum, the organization of travel is not my business. But you are absolutely right, this is not rest, this is hard work. I would like to lie on the beach a couple of days, but longer it’s boring.
In a certain situation of removing the camera from the camera bag and not only with heavy lenses, sometimes it turns out to grip the body with a spontaneous pressing of the lens release button, this has happened with this model before, but it was in a calm environment and I noticed the start of optics disconnection and avoided unpleasant situation, the designers made this button very large in comparison with the early models. But all the same, IT happened, in a hurry I removed the camera from 24-70 \ 2.8, apparently by pressing the button, the lens partially disengaged and when I started to take the camera into the “firing” position, 24-70 completely turned around and suddenly collapsed to the floor, I I didn't even have time to substitute my leg (when I did, plus it was over the flower bed) On the street, the replacement operation always, whenever possible, I try to do not over asphalt, concrete, but over a lawn, for example. I have a phobia - I am constantly checking the tightness of the mountings. I wanted this huge button to have some kind of lock, on early models this button had to be accidentally pressed. Nobody has come across this? Can the springs in the bayonet weaken, that from one press of the button, without rotating the lens, it starts to rotate randomly from the bayonet?
Straight fantastic! Never noticed this, maybe you are left-handed? I take the camera out of the bag with my right hand, and always take a “fighting” finger on the ON lever.
Once upon a time, on the D200 several times by accident, and did not understand why, I switched the autofocus mode to M. On the D3s I never touched ...
Small mistake: So 35 RAW frames at 9 frames per second can provide continuous shooting in the best quality for as long as 6 seconds.
Probably still a little less than 4 seconds, no?
Do not forget that the camera uploads images to the memory card continuously - therefore, the shooting time will be longer.
Turn on the stopwatch in your iPhone, and press the shutter, see what happened?
You did not understand. If you count, then for 4 seconds the buffer is completely filled. But in the same 4 seconds it is emptied.
It's like a puzzle about a pool - flows in through a thick pipe, out through a small one. If you plug the drain, the “pool” will fill up in 4 seconds. And if you simultaneously collect water into the pool and drain it, then it takes 6 seconds for the pool to overflow.
Arkady, a question for you: D3s run 152 thousand frames…. Should I take it? asking for 110 thousand rubles. The camera is very necessary, but here's the mileage ...
D3s runs well, 110 for her are seeds.
I think that taking any old professional carcass (especially outdated) at the price of a new full-frame camera is not worth it! And that's why:
1. Pro-camera is taken from scratch by pros who operate it in the tail and mane.
2. 150-200 thousand frames run very fast, and most likely this is not the first shutter.
3. They throw off such a device only if it is impossible to use it normally (obsolescence or physical deterioration).
4. As a rule, in our countries they are still trying to make good money on the sale of a device that has paid for itself! Generally nonsense!
Yes D3s is good, D3x is even better! But modern cameras are better than it in terms of picture quality. Comfortable body, good viewfinder - you cannot argue with that! But I'd rather buy a D750 with a battery pack. Yes, it's not about a carcass. Yes 6,5 frames versus 9 and 1/4000 s. But the D750 is more modern. With better picture quality at low ISO and not particularly losing at high ISO. The same autofocus and 24 MP.
If this is not an option, save up for D4 (s). And be careful when buying!
Thanks for the thought.
Let me disagree about comparing the picture quality of d3s and d750. I think, and not without reason, that it is generally not correct to compare these devices ... since it is by the picture, and not by the numbers from the Internet, that the D3 +++ line has no equal yet in the Nikon system. Especially when it comes to shooting people. And for the accuracy of white balance, focusing speed, durability and much more, I'll just shut up. These cameras are durable and in good demand. With all due respect to the d750, these are sooo different classes. By the way, having played enough with mirrorless cameras, many again buy old d700, d3 +++
Wedding photographers vote in rubles for d750. The camera is faster, better AF, wider than DD, ISO 2500-3200 for d750 without problems. The color without processing is different for them. A friend has d3x. But she has flaws. And now, compared to the d750, it looks like an outdated camera. The collapse of prices for used d3x on Avito over the past 4 years is a signal. They don’t want to get rid of the d750, and the d800 is full and the d3x also often pops up at a similar price.
D3x has the same problem as S5pro has a thick filter on the matrix. The D750 is also better with an AF module. The exposure meter on the d750 is also more accurate. The weight of the d750 is less.
Yes, and d3x is no better than d3s. These are just cameras for different tasks. Well, the color line is d4 +, in my opinion no better than d3 +. I have both.
Podzniy ovtet but still. I myself took a camera from a Chinese Bank. And besides mine, they had 3 more of them lying around, the mileage was less than 17000, and on mine it was 11434 at all, the cameras were in a new state, even under the lupe it was impossible to see at least one scratch. And my camera has been working like a clock for several months. So you have to look at the mileage and condition, and not at whether the pros have used them ...
Thank you for your reply, Arkady.
Thoughts aloud: if so, then more than 150 thousand starts a worm of doubt somewhere inside ... I will look for a mileage of up to 100 thousand.
I have been using d5 in the tail and in the mane for the 700th year already. The speed of fire is not enough (animalist), I do not have time to focus and I miss 7 frames per second. I thought about changing the camera (more precisely, take the second one) and got stuck with a choice ... Who will give a constructive answer, what is better to take: D3S, D3X (between them I could not understand the difference, to be honest), D4 or D4S. As for me, they are all almost the same (especially 3S and 3X). If someone says where there is information in comparison, I will also read it with pleasure, tk. all the reviews that I found are comparative in characteristics, and not in shooting and in practice. I would gladly take the D5, but the budget is already too big for me. For now, I'll take an intermediate link. (For me, it is important to shoot a running animal with maximum speed and number of frames, almost without stopping to catch the right moment). Thanks in advance for your reply.
Buy Sonya and shoot 4K videos
Do not be shy, share in what conditions you shoot, what is the budget?
Otherwise, somehow it is not clear what to advise.
If the light is good, then the D500 is better, everything is clear.
If not, then D4 / D4s.
Only now, maybe this is not the case with the D700 AF.
I shoot on Nikon D700 + Nikon 70-200 2,8 VR II.
San Disk extreme pro card 160 mb / s at 32 gigabytes.
10 frames per second is not enough for me. I often lose frames due to the fact that the camera was taken, and it takes too long to process. I don't have that much time to wait, every second plays a role, and 1-2 seconds of waiting very often cost me good shots. I shoot both at dawn and at sunset (ISO often goes beyond 2000, and in dark arenas I shot up to 4000). Noise Maker Mouse, but there's nothing you can do about it. Therefore, I would like to take something faster and faster. I don’t disdain the equipment, the size of the camera doesn’t matter either (it’s either a reinforced battery or a butblock), so I would like something up to 100 thousand, of course. But if there is something about 200 thousand, but much better, I will dig it. I will not pull higher at all.
For the first time I hear about d500 (apparently lagged behind life at all), you will need to read what kind of animal this is. I shoot mostly horses and dogs. Sometimes the shooting is creative: at 4 am at dawn, or indoors - equestrian / dog shows. Many thanks for the answers.
If you shoot with Nikon D700, then there is 8 fps, an increase up to 2 fps is unlikely to change things much. I guess there is more of a buffer problem here. The focus module of the D700 is the same as that of the d3s, and if it is not enough, then, most likely, it is a matter of the ability to focus (settings and method, etc.).
For starters, I recommend this:
1. If you shoot in RAW, set this format to “12 bit” and “normal compression”, 2.5 times more frames will be placed in the buffer, small files will be recorded much faster, and a series with a 160 Mb / s card (if real speed) must be infinite
2. Turn off the noise reduction function at high ISO and / or at slow shutter speeds, this will increase the buffer by another 2-3 times. Disable ADL. Even if you shoot in RAW, these functions eat up the buffer and reduce the burst.
3. If you are shooting in JPEG format, turn on the JPEG L Normal mode - you will not lose quality, and the buffer will grow 2 times, in this mode (with the enhancements disabled) with the specified card the buffer and the series should be endless
4. Perhaps the memory card is worn out and does not show the real speed - try with another card, better with a smaller volume, d700 with 32 GB may dull and not show super-high write speed
If something is not clear from the above, ask again.
I did not see your comment.
Focusing - on the way there is a problem with the lens, I'll take it to the service, it buzzes strangely and sometimes refuses to focus.
Thank you so much for the advice!
Noise reduction is turned off, and reduce RAW information ... I'll try, but I don't know if I can then deal with over- and under-lighting in post-processing? Sometimes I have to shoot at noon or against the sun. You can try, anyway.
A new card, I bought last week, before that there was a transcend speed of 400x.
And what is ADL - I do not understand, to be honest. It seems that there is no such reduction in the cell.
Active Day Lighting, you can lose a little when pulling, but try :)
AND! Indeed ... I am very grateful for the advice!))))
I hope that these tips before buying 4S are enough)))
the difference between D3S, D3X is rather big) .D3S-reporting camera with high burst speed, 12 megapixel sensor, high working ISO, and D3X-studio camera with 24 MP matrix, with lower working ISO and lower rate of fire. Those. in your case, it’s better to have D3S all of them D3 .., or, as Peter S. said above, well, it would be nice to understand which lens you use as well.
Special thanks for clarification!
The D3x is not a reportage camera, choose between Nikon D4 / D4s.
Well, at first I thought about D3S, and then I saw D4 at one good photographer and thought ...
You are probably right. It is worth putting an eye on d4S and digging it up. It seems to me the best option.
I also shoot a lot of animals. Hiring a D7000, but I’d like to add D3s. To add, because macro (insects are also animals, and even very beautiful), it is better to shoot with a larger matrix. And with the movement, everything is very simple. Shoot at high ISOs, very fast shutter speeds and open apertures. So the lens should be decent. Now I shoot at ISO 400, (I tried it at 1000, but it makes noise), it’s a sunny day, the shutter speed should be shorter than 4000. It’s unlikely that the flying swallow can be removed satisfactorily, but ducks, geese, even gulls, if they fly next to the boat :), this easily. I am talking about birds, they fly faster than other animals run. But if you have D3s, then you can, I think, set the ISO much higher (for example 2000), respectively, the shutter speed can be set much shorter. And, of course, the lens. I have 80-200, 2,8. I would like telemacro, but it is very expensive. I’m also shooting a video, but the camera is small, although the glass is Zeiss, the quality of the picture is stunned! To carry a large video camera, just not enough hands.
I would like to draw your attention to one detail regarding the D700 and D3s. In the D700, the signal-to-noise threshold of 32 dB comes somewhere in the ISO 1000 region, and this is a very good indicator. For comparison, Canon 5Dm2 has ISO400, and Canon 5Dm3 has ISO650. The Nikon D3s has the highest rating - ISO 1267! If you look at the dxomark comparison tables (do not believe those who say that they are lying, they do not lie, they just do not know how to correctly read and understand the results of dxomark measurements), then this is confirmed. Even the subsequent D4 and D5, as well as any other cameras, cannot give such a result, and this is due to the fact that manufacturers began to increase the matrix resolution, that is, they reduced the size of the light receiving cells, compensating for noise with digital algorithms for primary image processing. The high performance of the Nikon D3s matrix (by the way, manufactured by Panasonic and not Sony as some sometimes write) is also manifested in the fact that it still surpasses the performance of any other matrices and cameras in all other points - in terms of linearity of DD loss (that is, on ISO1600 when all other cameras warm up the DD significantly, the D3s doesn't even jerk!), tonal sensitivity and color sensitivity. In short, frames shot before ISO1250 do not contain noise as such, that is, you can draw out everything from them - both from shadows and from overexposures, and since his shadows are simply wonderful, you can simply set the camera always on exposure compensation at -0.7 and you will get wonderful in all respects frames with a DD of about 14EV, and more is not required, since our eyes perceive such images as the most natural. Moreover, the Nikon D3s sensor is designed in such a way that the next image degradation threshold starts from ISO 3270, that is, you can use ISO signs up to 3200 more or less freely! And that's more than enough for most situations where maximum detail and dynamic range are required. That's all, actually! Unfortunately, no one will probably put such a matrix into cameras, the race for resolution and stupidity of consumer photographers have done their job and now we have a Nikon D5 with banding when pulling out details from shadows, by the way, for the first time in the history of Nikon cameras. the hope remains that in Nikon D5s they will correct this mess ...
I want to draw attention to the fact that the D5 has much less noise than the old d3s, its colors are much better, the BB has become adequate. and if noise is important to you, then measure them further in dB
That's right, in the end the D5 works just fine, but at the expense of signal-level image pre-processing. And sometimes it just gives good results if you need to pull out the shadows. I used it too. Of course, if you have money, you have to take D5, but personally I would take D4s, after all, prices for older cameras are always draconian. And so, if you forget the video (for some it is a significant moment!), Then the D3s can replace all subsequent cameras in most cases, and taking into account the price for practically new copies in the region of 1100-1300 dollars, the answer is obvious. The D5 is less noisy at iso25000, and higher, but the fact is that in most cases quality work is required up to iso6400, including sensitivity to colors and less loss of DD, which the D3s does perfectly. Of course, the D5 has other advantages - gorgeous autofocus, automatic focus adjustment to the lenses (this is a very serious motivation for buying it!), The body is stronger and more durable, the rubber bands don't seem to come off, and the shutter with an increased resource of 400000 actuations. And the resolution is higher. And the price is 5 times higher. I also think that D3s will be an excellent second camera for D4s and D5 too ...
First, the company made its own sensor for d3s (Nikon NC81361A). Secondly, turns on D3s without any repairs go under a million. For example, my acquaintances have already “packed” under 900 thousand. I compared the colors in high ISO D4 and D3s, I personally like the triple more in color rendering.
ISO 4500 no noise reduction.
[url=https://radikal.ru/big/pvpan09awbj6v][img]https://a.radikal.ru/a42/1906/d5/5996ef5ad794t.jpg[/img][/url]
It has long been found out that the matrices on D3, D3s and D700 were produced by a subsidiary of Panasonic - TowerJazz, and their matrix was again installed in the D850, but assembled by Sony as a complete matrix mechanism. What Nikon says is that he develops matrices himself and others produce it later, well, let's believe, although you have to be naive not to guess that this is just a marketing ploy based on the technical coordination of some matrix properties with the supplier, as well as for camera buyers Nikon was calm at heart, they say everything is controlled by the Nikon company. It is also interesting who Nikon bought the shutters for the D600, which sprayed oil onto the matrix? Did you also take part in their design? In the world of manufacturing cameras and various mechanisms for them, there is the same close technical integration as in any other type of production - that is, manufacturers of various microcircuits and electronic parts (the same Leica has been purchasing almost half of the spare parts for its cameras from Panasonic for 50 years) , patents, developments, close and long-standing business ties, even family ties (Panasonic and Sanio are companies owned by cousins), as well as hostile sentiments, clan and banking interests (especially in Japan and Korea), etc. And all this is then hidden behind a beautiful marketing facade, which are transferred from one browser to another. By the way, they also carefully hide how much and what they buy from Chinese companies, although this figure is increasing every year, and Chinese companies have made optical glass so cheap that the devil only knows how many Japanese manufacturers are already buying them. Please note that if in other spheres of production the main suppliers of spare parts are somehow known, then in the world of the photo industry all this is very, very carefully hidden, like Apple, so that people do not get nervous about their draconian profits (do not believe either and the fact that they work for nothing is also a marketing trick - to show a small profit through the withdrawal of money to offshore so as not to pay taxes, recently all companies have resorted to this).
I'm used to believing the data, and not the gossip in which someone told the godfather in secret. And the category of gossip from “competent experts”. If there are facts, discard the link to the resource. Nikon company uses third-party manufacturers. Even if they take someone else's matrix and modify it, they write about it. The company uses its own developments and inventions in the field of sensors. But the company does not have its own sensor manufacturing facilities. Therefore, they turn to companies such as Toshiba, Sony. In the future, they will switch to a completely own production cycle. The head of the company spoke about this in 2018.
https://nikonhacker.com/wiki/Camera_Matrix
https://vasili-photo.com/articles/nikon-dslr-sensors.html
Good evening .. your advice and opinion is very necessary ... there is an option to buy a nikon d3 with mileage 320t in good tech. condition. .. the price is 550 ye. Is it worth it? Now I have d7000 but I want to ff for a long time .. or is it worth digging up on Nikon d600? ... in the whole range of 800-900 ye. For used I have all glasses under the ff matrix ... thanks to everyone for the help
Hello .. I really need your advice and opinion ... there is an option to buy a nikon d3 with mileage 320t in good tech. condition. .. the price is 550 ye. Is it worth it? Now I have d7000 but I want to ff for a long time .. or is it worth digging up on Nikon d600? For used I have all glasses under the ff matrix ... thanks to everyone for the help
Old flagship or simple entry-level ff? It seems the choice is obvious)
Begin with needs. If you need a reliable brick, D3s is for you, if a compact FF with a sufficient set of functions is definitely D600.
The shutter speed for D3s is two times shorter - 1/8000 versus 1/4000 for the B600. The number of megapixels in the flagship is more of a psychological factor.
The choice is very mixed. 320k run does not bother? He will not die today like that tomorrow, and again he will have to part with a nth sum of money to replace the shutter or something else.
Shutter replacement for both cameras is about the same. In addition, used equipment is originally a lottery. Even with a 400k shot, the flagship can plow the same amount. I can't vouch for the version for enthusiasts))
320t - mileage is too big, not worth it. Better save up))), and during this time, you look - what other options will appear on the second-hand (d700, for example, other things being equal, cheaper for d3, and even more so for d3s. And more compact).
I have D700 and D3. After I bought D3s in 2017, I realized that this is a real professional camera. The battery lasts for 2-3 thousand shots. That is, for 2 sports photo sessions - a football match, or 2 hours at the stadium.
ISO 12800 is completely working, you can safely print on A4 without any problems - a reportage photo for a newspaper or magazine.
http://ukgallery.srichinmoyraces.org/London/2017/7-August-HASTY-HARE-5k-Race-/Running/i-LM8xhbC/A
If you need to shoot sports - running, basketball, soccer in low light conditions, and “catch” good sports moments - this camera is for you. Thanks for your review!
Hello!
Arkady, is it possible to use Nikon D3s together with an external recorder to get high-quality video? I cannot find information anywhere on the net.
Probably not. Yes, and D3s video only 720p pulls, any other cheap camera can easily pull 1080p.
wise men from the Nikon marketing department at one time for the first time in the history of DSLRs gave the world the function of recording video. And the D90 soared into the bestseller. But then they began to be greedy. I thought so until now. But recently a Japanese man who knew the backstage life of Japan, who worked almost as a manager of a very, very famous company, said that the problem was not in the managers, but in the press that was brought to Nikon by the bosses of a much larger and more influential company, behind which in turn, is one of the most influential banks in Japan. I mean Kenon. So they agreed not to give their cameras top-end video functions, otherwise, apparently, due to the fact that Nikon himself was not a manufacturer of video equipment, he initially intended to generally provide the ability to record RAW video in all his cameras. By the way, he told me that the matrices for D3s, D3 and B700 were made by Panasonic and not Sony, and together with them then Nikon was developing embedding top-end video in his cameras with support for recording RAW video. Then I searched the Internet and found Ken Weller, an educated person in the field of technology, after all, instantly mentions that yes, these matrices were produced by Matsushita, that is, Panasonic. So, here is the result of the full clan and mafia of Japanese capitalism, as well as some clarifications on the history of the production of matrices for Nikon cameras.
Hello! I shoot an air show, often a lot. I need a camera with good rate of fire and autofocus for inexpensive. I understand that the decision is entirely my responsibility, but I still ask. Does it make sense at the end of 2018 to buy Nikon D3? As I said earlier, not for everyday use. every day there is a Nikon D800. Regards. Denis.
Yes, it makes sense. They are long-working horses. If anything - the shutter / mirror changes and they run another half a million.
Thank you Arkady! Photography is my passion, not a means of earning. Therefore, I am looking for cheap options for solving problems. Nikon D500 certainly came out, but the price will be three times as much.
And yes, I forgot to say. I took three prizes when shooting a Nikon D2Xs camera. He just shoots 8 fps on the HI Speed crop. I would like something faster and without loss of quality.
Arkady good afternoon! Does it make sense to switch from nikon d7100 to d3? It really hurts me the color on the d7100 doesn’t like; I have to straighten it up a lot. There is another option d600.
This is more to the question of the full frame. Color with d3s is also not ideal, but still there is nothing bad in it in general. D600 and d610 with the right approach can also give a good color. You can even squeeze what you need with the d7000 and d7100.
After six months of use, I can say the following: this camera, in fact, has one significant drawback - getting off it is extremely difficult, practically impossible, if you do not need a high matrix resolution, as well as an extremely high dynamic range. As a result of its work, it has nothing to do with the D700, which I also have. It is better to invest money in some really cool lenses from Nikon than in cameras, for example, 80-200 / 2.8D, some fixes, Marko 100 from Tokin, Voigtlander 58 / 1.4b Tshlsht 50b 1,8D ...
Hello. They gave me a Nikon d3s camera, but, alas ... without lenses. Actually the question is popular, about the acquisition of optics for this unit.
Conditions for filming: Arctic. Svalbard Archipelago, Franz Josef Land. Landscape, portrait, animals (at a remote distance) Due to the location, the choice of photographic equipment and accessories is not rich)))
Offer to purchase Nikon 70-210mm f / 4 AF Nikkor and Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S Nikkor. Is it worth it to buy?
I will say right away - I have no experience of filming with devices of this class, but I want to))
Thanks for the reply.
These are good lenses, take them. 70-200 for portraits is very even. For landscapes, you may need something wider than 50mm, and for photographing animals - longer than 200mm.
Cheer up, warto switch from D300s to D3s?
Yes, the transition is justified
Arkady, tell me, please, with the choice of camera as of the time of writing this comment. Now torn between the D3S with low mileage and the D500.
90% I shoot reports for a news publication, during which I make large-face reportage portraits for the site. The remaining 10% are exhibitions, squirrels in parks and street photography. Now my working tools are D5100 + nikkor 24-70 2.8 + 55-300 4.5 - 5.6 + 35 1.8 DX. In the near future we are planning to take Nikkor 70-200 2.8 VR II and one of the two above-mentioned carcasses. I asked several famous photographers on YouTube on their channels and live in photo equipment stores. The votes were divided approximately equally. The price of the cameras is almost the same at the moment, I don't plan to shoot a video. Thanks.
D500 is preferred only for squirrels, for the rest of the list, IMHO, D3S.
Flagship cameras have their own specifics. You need to know how to reach their full potential.
If you are wondering if D3s is needed or not, then it is not needed.
By and large, on the D610 / D750 you can get all the same, for less money, lighter weight and ease of handling.
I would like to give my opinion about dust getting inside the camera. Over the past 3-4 years I have actively used the following cameras - Canon 5D3 (lenses from Canon - 16-35 / 2.8L ii, 24-105 / 4L, 28-300 / L), Pentax K-01 (Tamron 17-50 lens ), Nikon D700 (Nikon 28-105D lens), Nikon D3s (24-85 / 3,5-4,5G lens). So, many here write and hope, and I also thought for the time being that if the lens has a protective elastic band on the mount, it protects the matrix from dust. This is true but only partially. According to my experience, the main part of the dust enters the camera as if not from the lens side, for example, my Nikon D3s with the above lens without an eraser for 10 months did not add even one speck of dust on the matrix, and this despite the fact that in most cases over the past months I had to work in a dry, dusty place, and even always with the wind, in addition, the same with the Pentax K-01 and Nikon D700 (the D700 and Pentax still had a couple of dust particles added), but Nikon D3s, which I mostly work with and practically I always carry it with me in any weather, not even one extra speck of dust yet. But Canon 5D3 is just like a sieve, and this with its protected 16-35 / 2.8L ii! In fact, its matrix has to be cleaned every 3 months. By the way, lenses on Canon did not change often, even very rarely, in most cases they cost either 16-35 or 28-300 (24-105 is such rubbish from the manufacturer, faceless and with a self-extending trunk, it is also called elka!). By the way, in addition, I will express my opinion about the aforementioned lenses from Kenon - 16-35 is very comfortable and fast in operation, 2,8 is completely inoperative in the corners, and so a normal lens (after comparing it with Tokina 16-28, the latter was surprised so much better it optically, and by 2,8 and a whole head, and in detail, and in microcontrast!), but at first I disliked 28-300L because of its size and weight, but now I think it is the best superzoom in the world and very convenient to work with , with excellent autofocus and stabilizer.