Nikon AF Nikkor 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D is Nikon's only autofocus lens with a focal length range of 28-105mm.
Review of Nikon AF Nikkor 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D
TTX Nikon AF NIKKOR 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D (IF MACRO)
Focal length: 28-105mm, EGF for Nikon DX APS-C is 42-157,5mm
Optical design: 16 elements in 12 groups, one of which is a hybrid aspherical
Diaphragm: F / 3.5-F / 4.5 to F / 22-F / 28
Number of aperture blades: 9 pieces
Front Filter Diameter: 62mm
The weight: 450g
MDF: 22 cm in macro mode at 105 mm
Maximum magnification: 1:2
The lens has a system Close range correction (adjustment at close focusing distances), which allows you to get high-quality images in macro mode.
Optical design Nikon AF Nikkor 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D. The aspherical element is highlighted in blue.
The lens was released in 1998. Nikon AF NIKKOR 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D has a metal mount and is very well assembled, no backlash. The lens in the hand feels like a very high-quality thing, especially the Nikon AF NIKKOR 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D Made in Japan.
Nikon AF Nikkor 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D
Focusing
Nikon AF NIKKOR 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D has very fast focus in normal mode Normal. In Macro mode, the auto focus speed is average. Normal \ Macro Limiter allows you to work in Normal mode from infinity to 50cm, and in Macro mode from infinity to 22cm. The lens has internal focusbut when zooming, the front lens rotates. Unlike many other specialized macro lenses, the focusing speed in macro mode is enough for convenient operation.
Nikon AF Nikkor 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D
Important:
Auto focus with Nikon AF Nikkor 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D lens available only when using him on cameras with built-in motor focusing. An exact and complete list of Nikon CZKs that support auto focus with 'AF' lenses can be found in the 'Auto focus on Nikon cameras'. There is no focus mode switch on the lens itself, to translate the lens into manual mode focus should put the camera in manual mode focusing using the switch located near the camera mount.
Nikon AF Nikkor 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D
With manual focus, the focus ring rotates in Normal mode by about 45 degrees, and in Macro mode by about 90 degrees.
Nikon AF Nikkor 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D
Important:
You can switch the lens to Macro mode only when the focal length is set to values from 50 to 105mm. If the lens zoom has a 28 to 50mm focal length, then it will be impossible to switch the lens to Macro mode. Also, in order to switch the lens from Macro mode to Normal mode, it is necessary for the lens to be focused from infinity to 50cm, otherwise switching the mode will fail. But auto focus is available in any mode.
Nikon AF Nikkor 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D and Nikon AF Nikkor 35-135mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKI)
Important:
The lens has an aperture control ring. So that he starts working normally on modern Nikon cameras, you need to set the value F / 22, using the aperture control ring on the lens itself, and fix it with a special lever, which is located near the F / 3.5 mark. After such manipulation, it will be possible to control the aperture directly from the camera, for more details in the section about Non-G Lenses.
Nikon AF Nikkor 28-85mm 1: 3.5-4.5 and Nikon AF Nikkor 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D and Nikon AF Nikkor 35-135mm 1: 3.5-4.5 (MKI)
Diaphragm
The lens aperture has an unusual maximum setting from F / 3.5 to F / 4.5. F / 5.6 is 1,55 times 'darker' than F / 4.5. The lens has a good 9-blade aperture, which makes it possible to form fairly smooth discs in the out-of-focus area.
Nikon AF Nikkor 28-85mm 1: 3.5-4.5 and Nikon AF Nikkor 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D
About image quality
On a full-frame camera, the lens is sharp with F / 3.5-F / 4.5 in the center of the frame. In the corners, the sharpness drops, and in macro mode a strong vignette is visible. The lens conveys contrast very well, has excellent color reproduction, is not afraid of side and back light, especially when using the lens hood that comes with the kit. The 28mm lens has distortion, but the distortion level is surprisingly very small. The lens can still boast not the worst bokeh.
Here is the lens in combat conditions:
Sample Photosobtained using the Nikon AF Nikkor 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D full-format camera lens. All photos in the gallery below are shot on camera Nikon D700 FX. No processing, converting from RAW - JPEG, Q80%, downsized to 3MP and imprinted data from EXIF.
Another gallery, all photos in which are also shot on camera Nikon D700 FX.
Another gallery, all photos in which were shot on camera Nikon D80 Dx. Without processing, on-camera JPEG, Q80%, reduced to 3MP size and imprinted data from EXIF. On Nikon DX cameras, vignetting is almost invisible.
And examples of photos on film:
Personal experience
For a long time I was looking for a universal lens for a full-frame camera. It took me a lot of time. Nikon 24-70mm f / 2.8G ED AF-S N Nikkor turned out to be very expensive, and Tamron AF 28-75mm f / 2.8 SP XR Di LD Aspherical (IF) for Nikon I was not satisfied with the flimsy body. It was decided to take only 'native' Nikkors. This AF NIKKOR 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D attracted aperture and f / 4.5 aperture at 105mm focal length. The capabilities of 105mm at F / 4.5 showed themselves very well in portrait shooting, and the wide angle at full frame is quite sharp already at F / 3.5. I got a lens for about 250 cu
For cropped cameras, the analogue of Nikon AF Nikkor 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D is the lens Nikon 18-70mm f / 3.5-4.5 AF-S DX. For crop it is better to use universal lenses of the type 18-105, 18-135, 18-140, 18-200, 18-70, 18-55, 18-300, 16-85, 17-55 due to a more convenient wide viewing angle than the 28-105.
Nikon AF Nikkor 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D
Lens prices in popular stores can look at this link.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
List of all Nikon FX 28-XXX autofocus lenses:
- Nikon 28-70 mm 1: 2.8D AF-S Nikkor ED SWM (black / white)
- Nikon 28-70 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 AF Nikkor (MKI)
- Nikon 28-70 mm 1: 3.5-4.5D AF Nikkor (MKII)
- Nikon 28-80 mm 1: 3.5-5.6D AF Nikkor (MKI)
- Nikon 28-80 mm 1: 3.5-5.6D AF Nikkor (MKII)
- Nikon 28-80 mm 1: 3.3-5.6G AF Nikkor (MKIII, black / silver)
- Nikon 28-85 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 AF Nikkor (MKI)
- Nikon 28-85 mm 1: 3.5-4.5 AF Nikkor (MKII)
- Nikon 28-100 mm 1: 3.5-5.6G AF Nikkor (black / silver)
- Nikon 28-105 mm 1: 3.5-4.5D AF Nikkor (Japan / China)
- Nikon 28-200 mm 1: 3.5-5.6D AF Nikkor (Japan / China, Black / Silver)
- Nikon 28-200 mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED IF Aspherical AF Nikkor (Japan / Thailand)
- Nikon 28-300 mm 1: 3.5-5.6G AF-S Nikkor ED SWM VR IF Aspherical
The catalog of modern universal lenses for Nikon can be see here.
Conclusions
Nikon AF NIKKOR 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D (IF MACRO) - excellent universal zoom for full-frame cameras... The lens is lightweight, gives a sharp picture and fast autofocus, has the ability to macro photography with a magnification of 1: 2, but requires a focus motor in the camera. By the way, Tamron also has a very interesting lens with the same focal length range - Tamron SP AF Aspherical LD [IF] 28-105 mm 1: 2.8 276D.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
I bought this lens the other day. Used in good condition. I decided to replace the heavy and bulky nikon 27-70 2.8 I took a hundred test shots (D700 camera). I don't know, maybe I got one, but nikon 24-70 is a different category. 24-70 consistently sharp at all focal lengths. While in 28 - 105 I do not observe a completely sharp picture. In-camera “fine-tune autofocus” didn't help. If the pictures are not compared with 24-70, then it seems to be normal. But when you start comparing, you understand that it is not sharp. The bokeh is not bad, but at the same focal and the same aperture, the depth of field and the blur zone are different for them. At 24-70, DOF is clear and small. At 28-105 DOF is almost the same, but the blur zone is somewhere further away. Therefore, at medium aperture values and higher, the bokeh is weaker by 28-105 and it is more difficult to achieve blur in a small space (room, nearby objects). I would say that at 28-105, the blur builds up smoothly as you move away from the depth of field. While at 24-70 it comes almost sharply.
Strange (at least) comparison give ... a $ 150 lens & a $ 1000 lens. This is roughly how to compare BMW with Renault. If we speak for 28-105, then the review has a remark about its not razor sharpness. And often you need this razor sharpness? If you need it right now, then you need to look towards new fixes.
Vitaly, this lens should be at least no worse than 17-105. And he concedes to him. And precisely in sharpness. What I liked about the 28-105 is just a hint of vignetting on all focal lengths, fast focusing even in low light, small size and weight. In my opinion, in terms of sharpness, it is inferior to such glasses as 24-85 2.8 / 4 and 17 - 105. 24 - 70 has never been considered super sharp either. It is stable, reliable, but not harsh. A similar 24 - 70 tamron, much sharper. Sharp lenses that I have personally used are Sigma 50 1.4 and Nikkor 85 1.4.
On all of the above lenses, if the focus was on the pupil, when you zoom in, you can see all the capillaries, the iris and the pupil, they will be sharp. In 28 -105 this clarity you will not see.
You do not enlighten me, but what kind of lens is 17-105? 28-105 does not have a focus motor, therefore the speed af is more likely related to the camera. Are you shooting crop? On my d700, the vignette is visible (open) from 28mm to 55mm. This lens was designed for film, to require permission from it (not sharpness! In the figure you can only talk about resolution), which is in modern lenses with a bunch of nano / aspherical elements? Are you serious, or are you trolling? At what distance and at how many megapixels do you photograph the eye, with such detail as you write? I close-up with a close-up lens to take pictures like that. And in the end: sharpness in the photo, this is not the most important thing (far away!). Many respected photographers shoot with monocles, buy expensive soft filters. What do you think, for what?
17 is a typo. 18 - 105. This is for the cropped matrix. I had two cameras. D300S and d600. For three hundred square meters I had 18-105mm 1: 3.5-5.6G ED Nikkor VR AF-S SWM DX IF Aspherical, TAMRON AF 17-50 mm F / 2.8 Di-II LD Aspherical. On D600, nikkor 24 - 70 2.8, sigma 50 1.4, nikkor 14-24 2.8, nikkor 85 1.4 100 2.8 and 24 - 85 2.8 4. This is first. Secondly, why should I troll someone? What a stupid fashion to throw newfangled words? If you know the meaning of the word trolling, then of the two of us, you are most likely involved. After all, it’s not me who’s writing to you under your comments to challenge you to dialogue, but you. Anyway. Now with regards to our question, which we are discussing here with you. In my opinion, this is a purely reportage lens. I wrote my comment so that those who are looking for a multifunctional lens for everyday life would understand that this lens is not for portraits and not for serious macro. So that people don't have disappointment. There is a lens with better performance and for little money. This is a Nikkor 24 - 85 2.8 lens.
https://radojuva.com/2012/07/nikon-af-24-85mm-f2-8-4d-if/
Now I am shooting at d700. So I decided to take 28 - 105, disappointed. I thought I was so caught, it turns out not, they are all like that. Yes, it will work on a 20X15 card. But I used to print formats and A1, and A2 and A3. Yes, you can “turn up” the sharpness in the software, but that's not it. But that's not it, I don't respect such methods. Now about “respected photographers”. I don’t care who is shooting with what. Many "respected" photographers, having earned a name for themselves, begin to suffer from all kinds of bullshit. It's like with artists. There is a name, a stupid black rectangle has been painted and everything is a masterpiece! So it is in photography. They will put up a frank marriage, and everyone groans. I understand that art is abstract, but everything also has a chapel. I am one of those who do not create idols for themselves and do not engage in idolatry. Pablo Picasso wrote: every day I write worse and worse. I throw out frank scribbles to the public and wait for them to finally shout - that's enough! But no, they perceive my frank mockery of them as masterpieces! I will spit, they shout - bravo! This is the spitting of the maestro himself! When I tell this at the artists 'house at my friends' houses, they answer me: he was wrong, this is a masterpiece! That is, “connoisseurs” of art know better than the author himself.))) I often go to all kinds of photo exhibitions and museums. I have many friends of photographers all over the world.
ps
If you are interested, I can send you a personal note from these lenses, compare it yourself.
Regards Ali
Well, what did you want? This is not a purely reporting lens, but purely amateurish. Crop with 24 m.p. he will not allow, f.f. from 24 mp permits. 24-85 is a newer model with higher resolution, with a front lens diameter of 72 mm. versus 62 for 28-105. Compare 28-105 then with 28-85, but both do not have 105. And compare with 24-70. Yes, after buying 24-70, I take it off. but I don’t like portraits from him, precisely because of excessive sharpness and focal max. - 70. 28-105 is a great travel-zoom for an amateur, which can be used for prof. shooting, which Arkady successfully demonstrated. it is not surprising that after 24-70, 50 \ 1.4, 14-24 and 85 \ 1.4, he did not look at you. It is not clear why they bought it; I would not have looked at it with such a park.
I know what trolling means. What you write here looks more like it: replace professional glass of a premium class (24-70 2,8, as you write), with an amateur whale glass of film times, wind it on a 24MP digital (!) Camera (d600), that even 12MP (d700) and compare the result for "lightness"? How is it? I don't understand at all. Everything else (artists / museums) - please. To discuss this offtopic on this resource (also, by the way, a "newfangled" expression, yeah).
Mistake above (sorry): trollLing, of course.
Ali, I disagree with you in terms of "best" 24-85 2,8-4. I have both 28-105 and 24-85, and I will say this - for 24-85 it is more or less suitable if you close one eye and squint the other - the picture is kind of dirty or something. But on a full frame at 24-85 at a wide angle there is such a distortion, and not even, in waves (it is clearly visible on the lines parallel to the horizon in the frame), and it is not just that such waves cannot be corrected, even with the omnipotent photoshop.
28-105, it has the usual barrel-shaped distortion at a wide angle, it is easily corrected by 1 click in Camera Raw. With the same sharpness from 24-85, 28-105 transfers better micro-contrast, the picture has more details, compared on the same subjects.
Hello Arkady! I recently purchased this lens on my Nikon D600 camera. When shooting at various focal lengths, the EXIF camera constantly writes a focal 75 mm. Cleaning contacts did not help. Maybe you know the solution to this problem? Thanks in advance.
I do not know the solution to the problem, maybe SC will help.
Hello, please tell me how it will work on the d7000.
It will work like any other cropped camera.
Hello Arkady. If you compare a picture (a portrait, for example) between Nikon AF Nikkor 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D and Tamron SP AF Aspherical LD [IF] 28-105 mm 1: 2.8 276D - which one is more interesting and better in terms of the picture?
Thank you.
By Sigma, I meant used 24-70 / 2.8 EX DG, not ART :)
Good day! Arkady, tell me, please, how on f8-11 at full frame things are with sharpness in the corners. Interested in the landscape. Thank you in advance!
Sergey, evaluate for yourself, on Flickr, here’s a link to the pictures with this lens, you can watch in full resolution of a 12 megapixel matrix:
http://ru.pixelpeeper.com/lenses/?lens=196
But still, which is preferable in terms of artistry. This lens or 24-85 2.8-4. It seems to me that this lens is its competitor. Moreover, it is still being sold new. Now I decide for myself. Either 28-105 or 24-85. By the way, I also had a tamron 28-75 2.8. It’s good for everyone, but can’t cope in combat conditions, only a leisurely shoot. I sold it.
Tamron was sold in vain. In terms of AF, it is not worse than the lenses you quoted for comparison, but it has an excellent picture when open. 28-105 at 105mm and Ф4.5 is soft, even slightly soft (at FF), at 85 and open (by the way, Ф 4.5 at 28-105 starts already from 65mm) - sharp and excellent micro contrast. I personally did not shoot 24-85, but judging by the examples from the network, then it is optically not a brilliant option. Plus 24mm & 28mm, but who is fond of the landscape (not me))) is important.
Yak and front Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor, I bought a miracle sklo from a quarter of your emoticon look. Especially, they added instructions and comments and a detective history of victories no worse than a fair seller. Win pov, bov, having tried to sell on the photo hobby, but on the other hand, they got the information and proved that they were able to do it on the side of the page. For this Santa Barbari, I’ve already booted the songs, so I’ve gotten tsikaviy, please brothers! :)
The asset was delivered for me for $ 165, in the ideal stand with a light filter Promaster Spectrum 7 UV. Okremo for 120 UAH adding this to the original HB-18 hood. Vikoristovuyu wiklyuch with Nikon. The focus was seen on the styles with the hand, but from the office of the day I never knew from the camera. Likewise, once I’m not stuck with such a problem, I’m guilty, moving, “dark”. Maybe I’m going to “stretch out my clothes”, but I can cope with all my tasks. Maybe three more years later I'll buy up to a new 24mm f / 2.8D fix, maybe 135mm. Todi can be used as a complete set of optics park. :)
Here, in the comments, after reading the feed about the drop of readiness from one side of the frame with the victorian object with a bit of digital ink. I have the same history itself. A friend pozichiv at the men tsi ob'єktiv for a corporate party. Hair up to Nikon D750. On a wide cut, they spared a fall of readiness from the left side on some (not all) svitlins. The axis is visible here.
I don’t know how I can explain such a vibrating effect by using a float camera to drive myself around all the focal points.
Fokusna v_dstan 28mm. Bulo is lined with odovnoyuyu dormant. Kodak ColorPlus 200:
Fokusna v_dstan 35mm.
Fokusna v_dstan 105mm:
Not having a photo. Kodak ColorPlus 200:
Rіvnі circles in the zone of rozfokusu.
Fokusna v_dstan 90mm. Macro mode.
Kodak ColorPlus 200:
The photo wasn’t finished yet.
I took it for a test. Camera D200
Recently bought one copy of this lens for a friend, in a new condition, as straight from the factory. But it turned out that this instance has a kind of defect - at focal points from 85 to 105, it cannot focus on inflexibility, even in manual mode. In macro mode at these re-focal lengths it gives out just excellent sharpness, and also focuses perfectly. UP to certain distances, somewhere up to 20-25 meters, it focuses on these focal lengths and gives out a normal picture, and then it does not focus and gives out a very blurry picture at all apertures. Dear Arkady, we need your advice - this is a clear defect of the lens itself, right? The seller will change it, I just would like to make sure once again from a knowledgeable person, I myself have never encountered such a problem before. The camera is also almost new - the D700.
Yes, there’s no other option.
We changed the lens, sent another one in a new state (from where only sellers can’t get their minds, but the lens is really new), it works fine, the brightness is level, but, of course, as they wrote here, they sag at open angles, but the picture is very good , and the lens works very well, focuses very quickly, and the macro actually works perfectly, did not even expect such a quality of the output picture, the focus speed in the Marco mode drops but not much, in any case it does not create any discomfort. The D700 does not have a built-in profile for this lens and it cannot correct vignetting and not much more distortion by 28mm, but in general there is no distortion in this lens or it is very insignificant, and then by 28mm. Also, there are no profiles for it in Lightroom and ACR, but they are also available and work perfectly in Dxo Optics Pro and Capture One. According to my personal observations, Capture One and DxO Optics Pro work with Nikon D700 files much better than Lightroom and Adobe Camera Raw.
Lightroom CC 2018 has a profile for it, in addition, it has become much closer in color to its native Nikon than other developers (just change the camera profile from Adobe Standart to any other).
Thanks you!
By the way, here is the profile for this lens made for Nikon D700 by a kind person in the internet, it’s hard to find it directly, but I caught it through the program and then removed it from the corresponding folder. I checked on my lens, it works very high quality.
Sorry, I did not watch that it is possible to publish only photos here. If the owner of the site does it, I will send him this profile so that he posted it here, otherwise it is not among the CameraRaw or Lightroom profiles by default.
Interestingly, if you compare it by the main parameters (sharpness, contrast, backlight and auto focus) with the Nikon 28-100mm AF 3.5-5.6?
28-105 will be better, but it’s understandable, just look at the photos from both.
It happened by chance that I bought this lens from good hands for 5000 rubles. I haven't tested it yet ... but it is well assembled. As good as new. Let's see how it behaves on the D700.
In Nizhny Novgorod, 28-105mm for 4-5 thousand rubles is sold, depending on the state and seller, in the fall it went through a flea market. For this money, a good choice is obtained, it is not a pity to take it in any weather, and it is difficult to kill.
Nikon AF NIKKOR 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D (IF MACRO) is a lens for film cameras, don't forget about it. Put it on film cameras and everything will be fine. The sharpness of all Nikon lenses is a moot point. Nikon has always struggled for frame clarity (not sharpness) and cameras are “sharpened”. But, for example, Leica - that for the sharpness in the Center of the frame, exactly in the center. Everyone has a different philosophy and approach. Anyway, in most cases, all matrices are from Sony.
Hello brothers .... I bought myself this miracle. I don’t know what to do. On d700 soap soap….
Sell, apparently unsuccessful caught, because d700, in principle, should allow. And buy 24-70 2,8G, preferably VR.
I don't even know ... I think I'm just picking on. or hands are crooked. for 24-70 with vr there is no money yet.
I've been crawling for two months now. I am completely satisfied. Yes, I had to change the first purchased copy, which the seller did without problems, it’s after all China, giving 7 days to leave the purchased items or return. I bought a lens in a new state and it is. I didn’t find a frank soap in it either, on the contrary, there is soap in the corners of the open ones, but not strong. It even helps those shots who need open apertures. There is a wonderful macro. The background blurred at an average level, it does not have cream bokeh, despite 9 petals. It focuses very quickly on the Nikon 700. I’m sending this because, prior to version 10.1, the ACR did not have its profile for automatic correction of distortions and vignetting, it was necessary to use a third-party profile, it was very good, but it didn’t reach its native Edobov ones. BUT here is the good news, today I installed a new 10-1 version of ACR and please, such a film appeared. I checked on the Adobe website and yes, I confirm the information. So now the owner of this wonderful lens can fully use it. By the way, the profile for him was built into Dxo Optics pro, and of course in his new and just super-duper version of DxO Photolab, but in Capture One it is not and probably never will be.
“You can switch the lens to Macro mode only when the focal length is set to values from 50 to 105mm. If the zoom lens has a focal length of 28 to 50mm, then it will not be possible to switch the lens to Macro mode. Also, to switch the lens from Macro mode to Normal mode, you need the lens to be focused from infinity to 50cm, otherwise you will not be able to switch the mode. But auto focus is available in any mode. ” An incomplete description of switching the macro mode. The fact is that returning the lens from macro mode to normal mode is not possible only if, after macro shooting, focusing at a distance of 2 feet (that is, approximately 60-65 cm) or longer. Otherwise, the macro switch is blocked. When working personally, at first I did not understand why sometimes I could switch it back, and sometimes not, but then I find such information from old Ken and everything fell into place. This is very important to know, otherwise you might think that the lens is wrong or that the macro switch itself is faulty.
Hello! I have such a question about this lens: no one has ever had any problems with switching the normal-macro mode ... I switched it to macro mode and it stuck in this mode. Does not switch back by switching to Normal mode. Don't know what the problem is friends?
Understood after reading the previous post! Thanks Koba !!!
Bought on ebay. Got sharp, on the d700 completely satisfied, the focus is really very fast. Thank you Arkady !!!
I bought this lens last year and wrote a review in which I pointed out insufficient sharpness. Fine-tuning the autofocus did not help. But there was an incident recently. I changed the lens on the d700 carcass. Laying out the lenses from the table, I dropped 28 - 105 on the floor from a decent height. The damage check showed that the camera stopped “seeing” this lens. Through a series of different manipulations (zooming in both directions and removing and reinstalling on the camera), everything returned to normal. I took some test shots and noticed that the focus was out of focus. I decided to try fine tuning. And lo and behold! The lens was adjusted. As a result, I got a “ringing” sharpness! It turns out that the lens was damaged as a result of (probably) an identical drop. The second drop brought the lens to life. Something most likely (after the fall) fell into place. I apologize for the undeserved criticism of this excellent lens. I just fell in love with him. Lightweight, small and razor sharp!
Hello everyone! Tell me, who knows how this lens will work on the D610? I mean the sharpness and clarity of the resulting image at 24MP.
I drove him, as a whole I was fine.
Thank you)
at 36 megapixels, my sharpness is perfect from 28 to 50 mm. Before that, I used it at 12 megapixels, it was ideal somewhere up to 70 or even more, now there is definitely no way to check.
Good afternoon, Arkady, I came across such an unpleasant thing in this lens. From 28 to 50 mm it falls into sharpness perfectly, and at large focal lengths the accuracy decreases, it is especially noticeable (even too much) by 105 mm. Tell me, please, can this be a problem of the specimen, or is it still a matter of the lens design itself? Is it possible to fix such a flaw in it?
As I already wrote, this problem was also with me when I bought the first copy, but it was almost like new, apparently this problem existed in some lenses and that is why they were returned at the time, and now they are walking on the manazin of used equipment. Of course, the sellers know, but someone is trying to bring down their Avos and they will not notice. Your lens must be changed to another!
I have such a question on the lens. The zoom ring does not rotate smoothly, but in jerks. Shooting does not interfere, but the impression of Japanese quality spoils. Is there any way to fix this?
Nowhere is it written whether this lens has a so-called hard stop. He doesn’t have a trip, but he experimentally established that every time they manually try to focus on infinity, I get to the point at the stop mark of the focus ring to infinity, and rotation is impossible. At all focal distances, the same thing happens and at infinity, everything is in focus. I tried to do it the other way, say, to focus somewhere far, closer to infinity and see the results. Not always infinity is in focus, but I set the focus ring manually to infinity (it always stops exactly at the infinity mark, as is the case with lenses with a hard stop mechanism), and everything is in focus. Maybe this lens still has such a mechanism? What do people think here? What do you think, Arkady? I surfed the Internet and did not find confirmation of such information anywhere.
Honestly, there are some doubts about the subject of parfocality of the lens, respectively, and doubts about the hard stop. Maybe a good instance?))
It is not parfocal, definitely. This is easily verified. When you change the focal length, the focus goes astray, not very much but noticeably. Maybe this is not a very strong change in focus, you can somehow use it to simulate parfocality, that is, do not change the focus after changing the focal length on closed apertures, relying on the fact that anyway the desired object or objects will remain in the field of sharpness, especially if not bring the zoom to 75-105mm. from experience I can judge that it also does not have a real hard stop, but it definitely focuses on the limit of rotation of the focus ring to infinity, and confirmation of aphthofocus appears there, so you can freely neglect some error, and so on up to 50-40 mm. Personally, at 28mm, focusing on infinity is given just before reaching the infinity mark with a stop (in any case, how much zooming beyond the infinity mark does not rush), but at such a focal point a little less than infinity or to infinity still does not change anything, at aperture 8 we have about 34 meters depth of field.