For the opportunity Nikon Speedlight SB-700 Flash Review many thanks Sergey Svirida.
Type of flash Nikon Speedlight SB-700
Nikon SB-700 is an advanced amateur flash. An excellent alternative between professional SB-800, SB-900, SB-910 and unpretentious SB-600. And the Nikon SB-700 is much better SB-400.
The flash has a fairly compact size and a number of good properties, such as:
- Flash zoom from 24 to 120mm... This is a good indicator. Often amateurs use lenses like 18-55mm, 18-105mm, 18-135mm, for such lenses the Nikon SB-700 flash will be enough for head-on illumination.
- The flash may work in command mode Master and control other flashes that support the creative lighting system Nikon CLS. The flash can control two groups of flashes A and B. More advanced SB-900, SB-910 can control three groups of flashes simultaneously.
- The flash works perfectly in slave mode with Nikon CLS. I set fire to the SB-700 without any problems using the built-in flash on my Nikon D700.
- Unlike SB-600The SB-700 has the ability to work in SU-4 mode and set on fire by any pulse flash.
- The Nikon SB-700 has a built-in reflector card and built-in diffuser, which are hidden in the flash head. A diffuser is a very useful thing that helps out in difficult flash conditions.
- Comes with a flash two filters and a large diffuser. And in the kit there is a foot stand for the flash and a square case. It’s convenient to mount the flash on the foot and place it on a tripod to create creative lighting. But SB-900 has a cover that can be comfortably worn on a belt, unlike a cover Sb 910, SB-700. The Nikon SB-700 kit is pretty decent.
- The flash works on 4 batteries or rechargeable batteries. Recharging is fast, recharging is very dependent on the flash mode and the quality of the batteries or batteries.
- Of course, the SB-700 supports FP fast sync mode, which will allow you to shoot at any shutter speed up to 1 \ 8000s, which is very important for daylight.
- The SB-700 has a huge display on which all the settings are accessible shown. The SB-700 has a very nice flash switch.
- SB-700 has overheat protection. Bringing the SB-700 to overheat is very difficult, much more difficult than SB-900, SB-910. The overheat function is not disabled.
- The flash head rotates all 360 degrees, it is very convenient when working with lighting from the ceiling and walls. Also, the head rotates 97 degrees up / down.
Personal experience:
The Nikon SB-700 is a great value for money flash. It is lightweight, fairly cheap, and very functional. Nikon SB-700 works great in i-TTL auto modes. Prior to Nikon SB-700, to be able to remotely control Nikon flash units on unsupported cameras Nikon CLShad to buy expensive SB-800, SB-900. Nikon SB-700 was able to collect pleasant controls SB-900, SB-910 and ease of use by amateur photographers with the ability to work with Nikon CLS. I am often asked what kind of flash to purchase, I always recommend to fans and advanced users of the Nikon SB-700. Professionals themselves all know what they need. I personally use SB-900, SB-910 due to slightly more power and uptime in all conditions.
[Poll id = "5"]
And here are the prices for the Nikon SB-700:
All Nikon Speedlight SB-700 Prices
Conclusions:
Nikon SB-700 is a great flash. Best price / quality option from Nikon. The flash works in slave and master modes, has good power, quick recharge and compact size. Recommend.
Help to the project. Thanks for attention. Arkady Shapoval.
Tell me! I do not know what happened in the settings, but when shooting, the flash blinks three times. How to do what to remove? ((
On the camera, turn off red-eye reduction
I was tortured with the D5100 menu. There is Red-Eye Reduction in the retouch menu, but this is working with ready-made images, as I understand it. I can not find where you can remove (((
foundaaaaa, thanks!
A bit about zoomErr (zoom error).
For many, this error pops up after a fall, impact, or simply during operation.
In the flash head, a mechanism is responsible for positioning (zooming) the lamp, which includes a flash position sensor at the top point. This is the “weakest link”. The flash falls, and a small plastic (4x4mm) breaks off, on which the position sensor is oriented. for clarity, it is made in the form of a letter P, in the middle of which, in the upper position, this plastic comes in. If the flash turns on, puffs, the motor buzzes, but the lamp in the head is frozen in the upper position, you are guaranteed to have a problem with its position sensor. It is treated, in principle, either with superglue or fusing a new plastic, I do not recommend repairing it on my own, although if your hands grow from the right place and are not afraid that you will be electrocuted a couple of times, you can climb)
On YouTube, there is an instruction on how to reset the voltage in capacitors, though not for the sb-700, but in essence the principle is the same for all flashes.
SB-700, in principle, is quite reliable, I personally have a claim to plastic and a swivel mechanism, but regarding microchips and assembly inside everything is on par.
Tell me, the problem has appeared! Over the past couple of weeks, I had to photograph events a lot. Especially after one event, the flash began to overheat. Accumulators or batteries become so hot that they cannot be picked up ((at the same time, it started to happen when I start taking pictures every time, although not much in time, after half an hour, an hour, the flash overheats and turns off ((It’s fast It’s possible to be connected, for example, with batteries ?! Perhaps you need to use batteries no higher than how much mAh is there? Or does it still have no effect? Although they were previously used in this flash. Or, perhaps with a new charger device ?! Help once brother! It is terrible to lose a flash, and with such prices.
Hello everyone! This is how it happened. I took off the sb600 on the nikon d5000 and I didn’t know grief for half a year. I became the owner of the second-hand d700 camera and I was horrified to notice that the flash doesn’t work randomly with different frequency and power. I put a Kenon flash on the d700 friend. with this all the norm. there’s no place to get a nikon flash to check if the shoe sins. sold hearts sb 600 in the hope that the new will not be naughty. there are 2 questions !!!! 1) who knows what the problem is most likely? 2) I look at the sb700 and sb900 on the alder, the difference is not big in price. But only 900 type pros and 700 advanced amateur. To d700 and not super pro shooting what to take? shooting dusty banquets and private photosets
In continuation I am writing that I sent a camera from Odessa to the capital. Through the Paparatia store. As the diagnosis will be announced, I will unsubscribe. And while on the forums I read that there are problems with shoes in the D200 and d700.
and so friends. replacement of a shoe !!! 1600 UAH
Congratulations. Good luck to you pictures.
Good day! Tell me, please, is it worth taking the sb700 flash to nikon5200? Thank you in advance for your response!
I just had such a kit D5200 and SB-700, works fine in such a bundle. If the money is normal, then take it.
After repairing the SB-700 at the company's service center (batteries leaked), the flash was restored, but a strange thing happens: when working with the Nikon D5100 in iTTL mode, the flash occurs, but the object is illuminated by it only when shooting from a short (up to 1 m) distance, at at a greater distance, despite the flash, the effect is the same as when shooting without the flash (only the color balance is slightly shifted towards red) - both in the camera's automatic mode and in manual modes. At the same time, the indication on the flash fully corresponds to the correct TTL-BL mode, the lens zoom (18-55 nominal) is worked out. In manual flash mode (M), everything works flawlessly, in GN mode, the distance to the object is taken into account - in general, a mystery. It does not depend on the exposure time, at 60 the flash occurs, and it is quite bright, but in the iTTL mode the impression is that someone is covering the flash with a hand. No flash advance or delay is observed, contacts are cleaned, batteries are charged. Should I take it to the repair shop again to check the TTL system, or maybe there is some secret in the camera setup? I reset the flash to the factory settings several times, it does not help.
yes, carry in ss
Hello Arkady. I have a Nikon 3100, tell me, in order to use the SB 700 remotely, will I need to use the built-in flash to light the external one? I don't understand anything about this ... At what distance will it fire with the minimum power of the built-in flash of 1/32, and will such a tandem work at all?
Yes, it will work, su-4 mode. More details (paragraph 5): https://radojuva.com/2011/11/photo-idea-set-1/
Who met with the error: the big letter “M” and the exclamation mark are on the screen. Type you need to go into manual mode. And during this the shutter is fired and the flash does not puff. After 10 minutes everything started working fine. Vdoma decided to repeat, took 300 frames at different focal lengths with different impulses, nothing like that happened ... in general, I summed up Sat 700 at the most important moment.
I also encountered this when the flash was installed on a radio synchronizer (receiver), and the transmitter was turned off. Turned on the transmitter - the flash went to TTL
So it turns out that if the flash is installed in the camera’s shoe, then for some reason the flash most likely does not see the camera, therefore, it says that it can only work in manual mode, which is logical. Those. classic: either there is contact where it should not be, or it is not there where it should be
I have not bought a flash yet, but it’s interesting to know whether it is possible to use flash bracketing from a distance of 3-5 meters on a sunny day, in high-speed flash mode? And will the photograph taken blink before or during the second frame, the shooting speed is 6k / s? Tell me how to set the flash correction, if the sun illuminates the photograph at an angle of about 45 degrees and the flash shines on the forehead?
Hello. Recently, more and more people are invited to shoot at home, but usually there are big problems with lighting in the premises. Here I choose a flash. I can't decide between 700 and 900 in any way. Under what conditions might 700 not be enough? I shoot children, families with Nikon d700 ... I really look forward to your reply. Thanks a lot in advance!
For home, i.e. small rooms - SB-700 is enough for the eyes. I recently bought it myself, I'm not overjoyed)
It is felt that Arkady rested on this review ...
There is not even a leading flash number and descriptions of basic functions.
And the flash is very good, not very different from the top in capabilities
and strongly - for the price. I also have sb-800, so I know what I'm talking about.
And it is quite different from the top ones (although the sb-800 is professional, but not at all the same as the top-end sb-910), and the leading number is manipulated by different manufacturers as convenient for them. Nevertheless, the leading numbers of flashes are indicated by Arkady in the comparison table from the article “Which flash is better for Nikon”. Perhaps yes, the sb-700 can compete with the sb-800 in some way, but it is decently weaker, which actually feels good in a number of situations. For an amateur, a very good option (and quite compact, and suitable for a large number of tasks, and CLS, which is actually very good), which is indicated (and not only on this page). She worked on other systems for me, and not only in M, but, for example, in an interesting GN mode.
Hello! I am the owner of this model. Once I was interested in the opportunity to set fire to this flash in su mode from the flash of a smartphone, but this attempt was unsuccessful. The built-in flash of the camera fires without problems. What could be the problem?
The flash of the smartphone, most likely a diode, does not create too sharp an impulse. The smartphone should have a xenon flash. But even so, the SU-4 operates on the first pulse, and the camera works with trial pre-pulses.
Hello everyone! From film times, the Fil-107 flash (without a camera trap) has remained. Hiring a Nikon D5000. Please advise how to cross a hedgehog and a snake? Through r / s (Yang Nou) with connection via sync cable does not work. Perhaps you need high voltage ignition? And what design? Sorry to throw away the old woman.
Sorry, but have to.
Maybe this will do: https://fotofond.com.ua/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=29519
I want to buy Nikon F4 and I'm interested in the question of its compatibility with the SB-700 which I own, is it compatible? If so, how much? In the article, this issue was bypassed. On the Nikon website and in the flash manual, I did not find clear information. I would also like to know its compatibility with old, manual Nikon film cameras, as well as autofocus amateur film SLRs of the latest generations
There is no full compatibility, as the SB-700 belongs to the new I-TTL flashes, which we learned to work with only from Nikon D70, D2x. But it will work in manual mode.
The best option SB800- great for both film and digital SLRs !!!
I have 2 flashes of sb-600 and sd-700. set them in manual mode at full power. And I can say for sure that the 700th is a little brighter (about a third of the step). And according to the leading number, it turns out the 600th. How can this be explained. The flashes are both serviceable and the lamps are in excellent condition.
Will the SB-700 or SB-600 work with the Nikon F-301 film? (aka N2000)
Only in manual mode! SB800 to help !!!
An important minus point is the absence of a battery charge indicator - how can we do without it? This already tends to cancel the purchase. Why didn't you write? I thought you were an honest dude, but it turns out that you, like everyone else, need to be filtered. Basically, the whole class, all the articles are good, but you need to filter - I didn't expect ... well, nothing - all people are the same - some have more, some have less ...
Honest dude, find at least one Nikon flash with this indicator. Yes, and others, too, not everyone has. Yes, and to make such an indicator honest does not work, given the variety of power supplies that you can put there. At least 4 different types.
WITH AN INDICATOR, NOT AN HONEST DUDE, THERE IS, EVEN MY YUNGNO 685 WITH AN INDICATOR, WHICH I WANT TO SELL for the reason - it's getting hot - another scam, so I'm trying to choose. How to shoot a wedding without an indicator or something else? No answer. There are moments that must be covered in the description, because of their great importance, and I noticed behind HIM a manifestation of cunning at different moments - it does not fully cover, only the obvious negative sides cannot be bypassed - we have to say - well, he does not like it, he even tries an explicit guno to overshadow the type, it will go. Noticeable - strongly noticeable, so I put it on his mind and I think it will be corrected. He does not want to offend the manufacturer either, but even if he lies strongly in the direction of goodness, then whoever will come after that, so he maneuvers. I would write honestly, but I doubt that he forgot about it, that so and so - well, there is no indicator and how to be - but the hell knows. Oh, you better shut up - don't make me nervous - dude
Nervous dude, I repeat - Nikon does not have a charging indicator. Buy another Chinese and Uzbek.
That's just your Chinese with an indicator and there is. All native Nikon-Canon flashes do NOT have a charge indicator. You don’t even have to light it, it’s like having a diaphragm in the lens.
Please be more polite in communication. You can express your thoughts and opinions about the technique and the review calmly, but without going over to insults. The following abusive comments have been removed.
Of course, here is not all the information on the flash, but only an overview. All details, only in the manual on many pages.
By the way, yes, most likely due to different chemistry (and, accordingly, different voltages and discharge characteristics), this indicator is not installed. Although it was possible to make a pre-critical indicator that would warn that the battery was about to go down. Or, as in bat.blocks - choose the type of batteries through the menu.
And so, the garbage comes out of the user's side: you learn about the dead battery when the flash turned off. When shooting in series (2-3 frames of Ch), you can still understand that the flash is on the verge of missing the second or third puff. When shooting frame by frame you will not know about it.
find out when it starts slower
Hello Arkady. I need your advice in such a situation. Recently got a Nikon D300S, which advise flash sb-700, or sb-900, both offer in the same condition at the same price, I am an advanced amateur photographer, which will be more suitable?
For professional d300s it is better to take professional sb900
Thanks a lot Arkady! My inner pros and cons (I was still thinking about sb-700) coincided with your advice, so now it’s good that I was not mistaken!
Good evening, Arkady! Can you please tell me what could be the problem? I recently acquired an SB-700 flash and bought a control unit. I use it on Nikon d 90. In general, the flash fires once, or even less. After one operation, the overheating indicator appears and you have to wait until it disappears, which is half a minute or more. And then again for one or two operations. Am I doing something wrong or is it a malfunction of the flash? Is it possible to do something about it ?! Tell me please. In despair, just .... ((
Most likely this is a flash problem, the path to service.
Thanks for the answer!)
Tell me, please, which sb 700 or SB-910 flash will work with the D3100? I need a flash to work in food photography, namely to freeze motion. I read many articles, I realized that my camera does not synchronize via TTL without the help of an additional synchronizer, but in this case there will be problems with the pulse? I'm already confused, please help me figure it out!
The D3100 cannot control external flash units using the built-in flash.
This feature is available on the D70, D80, D90 and D7000 and above.
The options are:
1. Use the SB-700 or SB-910 on the camera in master mode (or an external SU-800 unit) to control other flash units (if you have several). Then you will need at least 3 bulbs: 1 on the camera as a master gives a control pulse to the other two (for example, on the right and left). The difference between 700 and 910: how many groups of other flashes she can control as a master: (SB-910: 3 groups, SB-700: 2 groups). Each group can have an unlimited number of flashes. A group is 1 or more flashes that receive their special power settings from the master. (e.g. exposure compensation -1)
2. Use the internal flash + external SB-700 or SB-910 as a regular light-trap (on external flash units we set the SU-4 mode, on the internal flash - manual mode and minimum power: 1 \ 128).
It will work only as an ignition, the power of the impusus on external flashes must be manually adjusted.
3. Use a radio synchronizer. One piece fits on the camera shoe, the other on the flash shoe. Available with or without iTTL support - just like lighting a flash. In this case, you will have to use the flash in manual mode and set its power manually (determining it experimentally from test shots). If you are lucky with the iTTL synchronizer, then the flash will work normally in auto mode.
4. Drive on CLS and just rent for an hour or two a studio with professional flash lighting and manually adjust the power of each device. The synchronizer will be given there.
By the difference between the SB-700 and SB-910: the maximum pulse power + the number of flash groups that it can control in master mode if you use CLS. SB-700 (or a couple of these) for a home studio, I am sure, will be quite enough.
Still forgot about the sync cable)
5. Buy a cable. Insert it into the shoe of the camera and flash. Everything will work as if the flash is on the camera. The only inconvenience in the wire
This is a very good comment, but a person writes about TTL (not about CLS) and it is unlikely that he immediately realizes all these things.
Both flashes fit. The d3100 does not have high-speed synchronization, but you can freeze without it. Take sb-700 and train.
Tell me. When operating as a slave flash in SU 4 mode, if the flash mode selector is in the TTL position, Auto mode is displayed on the flash monitor. No corrections can be made in this mode. How the parameters are measured, because, as I understand it, in the full TTL mode, the flash working in SU 4 does not work.
SB-700 with SU-4 mode turned on must be switched to “M” mode and power can only be controlled manually
See page 81 for instructions that the flash can also be used in Auto mode. Judging by the text, does the flash work with power equal to the control power? Do I understand correctly?
Here
See page 81 for instructions that the flash can also be used in Auto mode. Judging by the text, does the flash work with power equal to the control power? Do I understand correctly?
!!!!! Experimentally figured it out myself. And I can state the following.
Apparatus D 5100.
In SU-4 mode, the Sb-700 slave flash turns on Auto mode when the switch is set to TTL mode. In this mode, the SB 700 operates at a power adequate to that of the control flash, incl. built in both manual and TTL. Those. when set to manual, the built-in flash output of the SB 1 also gives 32/700. When the built-in -TTL is installed - the corresponding power selected by the camera.
I covered the built-in hand - the result did not change.
Thus (probably) it can be argued that in the SU 4 mode, the SB 700 slave flash can be controlled in TTL mode with the built-in flash even by the younger Nikon models. ???
Unfortunately, this is not so, although it may seem so. I answered what's the matter below
See page 81 for instructions that the flash can also be used in Auto mode.
!!!!! Experimentally figured it out myself. And I can state the following.
Apparatus D 5100.
In SU-4 mode, the Sb-700 slave flash turns on Auto mode when the switch is set to TTL mode. In this mode, the SB 700 operates at a power adequate to that of the control flash, incl. built in both manual and TTL. Those. when set in manual mode, the power of the built-in flash is 1 / 32- SB 700 also gives 1/32; 1/1 - respectively 1/1. When the built-in flash is set to TTL-control mode, the SB 700 will fire at the appropriate output as matched by the camera.
I covered the built-in hand - the result did not change.
Thus (probably) it can be argued that in the SU 4 mode, the SB 700 slave flash can be controlled in TTL mode with the built-in flash even by the younger Nikon models in both manual and automatic modes. ???
Maybe I was wrong. Check, please.
This is an automatic mode for older Nikon cameras. With new cameras (with all digital cameras except the D100) this mode will not work. In this mode, the SB-700 turns on when the control flash fires (for example, on-camera) and immediately turns off when the control flash turns off. Old cameras were able to dose the amount of light with a pulse duration, this is how the AUTO mode in SU-4 mode could be implemented. Now this is not relevant and it remains only the M mode for SU-4 or to switch to CLS already.
Arkady, sorry. While you answered, I edited the message. Experiment and comment please.
The fact is that I have a bunch of D 5100 and SB 700 working. And the flash power (slave SB 700) I can adjust remotely from the camera. Theoretically, it turns out that if you put an IR filter on a built-in flash (a piece of illuminated film), then without the built-in flash affecting the exposure, the command mode for one group will practically work.
This is great, but it still works within the margin of error due to the principle described above)
The fact is that this “error”, when using the proprietary nozzle SG-3IR, can make life easier for owners of SB 700 and Nikon junior models that do not support the full-fledged CLS command mode.
It will be necessary to make a separate note about this, it has always been considered that this is only on paper "auto" for old cameras
Maybe you’ll conduct an experiment, because maybe it’s really an error and only for me? In order not to mislead people.
I loved with the D750 and the choice is very complicated - sb900 (discontinued) or sb700 (new or supported) are supported. The price is the same for the supported ones.
The SB-700 is a very good option.
I have a problem with the flash, it stopped even turning on on rechargeable batteries with 1.2v, but with ordinary batteries at 1.5v it works without problems, although until recently everything was fine. I have not cheap 1.2v batteries imedion, varta and beston. What is the problem I xs. The charger is also normal extra digital for 4 batteries.