Cleaning the matrix is a vital necessity. Below are examples of a dirty matrix not for the faint of heart who suffer from heart disease, please do not read further.
Matrix cleaning. Article from Radozhiva.
One of the disadvantages of modern digital SLR cameras compared to film, is that camera sensor gets dirty over time. In film cameras, a new piece of film is allocated for each frame, so there is simply no problem with pollution for the film.
How to check the matrix of the camera for contamination?
Very simple. For this you need take a picture on the closed diaphragm of a plain background... The easiest way to do this is to put the camera in aperture priority mode (mode A or Av on the mode dial). Set the minimum allowable aperture value, this means that the F number should become the maximum, most often F16, F22, F32, F36. Turn off auto ISO and set the minimum allowable ISO value: most often it is ISO 50, ISO 100, ISO 200. After that, just take a picture.
Please note that the focal length of the lens does not affect the check of the dirtiness of the matrix. A solid background should be photographed only to make it easier to notice dirt on the matrix. When the aperture is closed, it will be long excerptIt’s best to mount the camera on a tripod or on a stationary object. Length excerpts does not affect validation. If there is no tripod, you can simply take off the blue sky.
Dirt on the matrix
In the photo above, I made the settings ISO 100, F16, 50mm. In order to more clearly see all the fear and horror of a dirty matrix, you can set the maximum image contrast in the program editor. See below.
Dirt on the matrix
By arrows I showed the dirt that I had on Nikon D200, my camera Nikon D200 not cleaned for more than a year.
Attention: Do not be afraid of a dirty matrix. At open apertures (at apertures up to F / 8.0), dirt will hardly affect the quality of pictures. You can shoot your whole life on F1.4-F4.0 and not worry at all about the cleanliness of the sensor.
Contrast enhancement to see dirt
Do I need to clean the matrix?
Everyone decides for himself. I need a clean matrix, as I earn money for a living by photography. I often have to shoot scenes with a closed aperture (group portrait, landscape, photo for reviews), so I monitor the cleanliness of the matrix and try to take my cameras every 6 months to clean the matrix. Cleaning the matrix costs from 40 to 100 cu and takes 1-2 days. It is quite expensive, and the cleaning result does not always suit me. Therefore, I decided to do this business myself. For a more or less reasonable price of 60 cu I came across the Green Clear Sensor Cleaning System (Non full frame Size) for DSLR Cameras. The system allows cleaning about 80 times with a bottle and 3 times with special cleaning mop brushes.
Integrated matrix cleaning systems
Now it has become very popular to install matrix cleaning systems in CZK (digital-mirror cameras). My practice shows that such systems cannot completely protect the matrix from dirt. Basically, cleaning systems are based on the fact that the matrix vibrates and shakes off the dust. But dirt is not only dust, it can be streaks from condensation or something else. Cleaning systems simply cannot cope with this. On my Nikon D90 with the cleaning system I had to take it to the service after a year of use and the active cleaning function. I often fall into the hands of cameras with cleaning and I always see dirt on the matrix. So, cleaning systems for 2012 cannot provide the quality of cleaning that is so strongly advertised by manufacturers.
For owners of CZK Nikon will be useful article about the software method of combating dust and dirt on the matrix.
Green Clear Sensor Cleaning System (Non full frame Size) for DSLR
How I cleaned the matrix:
The Green Clear Sensor kit includes a can of some kind of gas, three dust suction tips and three sets of mops for cleaning. You need to read the instructions for the Green Clear Sensor or watch the training video. I also had a small Russian-language instruction in the kit. Most of all, it was difficult for me to install the valve on the cylinder - you first need to strangle it, and then tighten it.
- I collected a vacuum pump. By simply attaching a valve to the cylinder, to the valve an extension tube, to the tube one of the cleaning tips.
- Set up the camera in order to clean it.
- With the help of a pump, I sucked up dirt.
- Using a mop, I cleaned the sensor.
In fact, it’s a little scary to go to the matrix of the camera, but when you do this often, all fear disappears.
Before and after cleaning
Attention: I advise you to read the instructions for your camera. In order to clean the matrix of the camera, you need to raise the mirror in front of the matrix. There is a special function for this, usually called “mirror up” or “mirror up for cleaning”. On Nikon, when this function is activated, when you press the shutter button, the camera raises the mirror and remains in this position until the camera is turned off. If the battery charge is less than 60%, the mirror up function will be disabled. Do not use slow shutter speed to clean the sensor. My friend was cleaning the matrix on shutter speed at 30s and got carried away, the camera lowered the curtains and the mirror - nothing good came of it. Also, in the specialized mode, the camera does not take a picture - no voltage is supplied to the matrix, which also reduces the risk of damaging something.
Conclusions:
Sometimes you need to check the camera matrix for contamination and take the camera to a service, or clean the matrix yourself. Self-cleaning is 3-4 times cheaper for after-sales service. Built-in systems for cleaning the matrix from dirt can only postpone serious cleaning of the matrix in time.
Thank you for attention. Arkady Shapoval.
Hello!
I bought cheap mops on the net, after cleaning the matrix on the D600, there were small scratches. Do not save on mops.
Hello. I want to share my experience. To clean the matrix I took a hand pump to inflate the balls. They are of several types. Took a powerful one for tight balls. He's with a hose. One person rocks and the other blows off the dust. There is a special funnel-shaped nozzle (nozzle) on the hose. With this nozzle, I blew it off at an angle to the matrix for better blowing out of dust both from the matrix itself and from the camera in general. The jet is powerful. Much more powerful than any kind of pear (incomparable). A turbulent stream from the chamber blew noticeably into the face. The result is a pure matrix. The pump costs 45 UAH. Maybe this will help someone.
And BECAUSE A REALLY INTERESTING WAY, USE THE PUMP, THERE IS ALMOST EVERYONE, AND DOES DECENTLY. THANKS GREAT!
Do not try to use hand pumps !!! They can be oiled, and microscopic drops of oil can get on the matrix, then they will not be washed off.
This is a cheap plastic ball pump. They are not lubricated with oil.
I went and checked. It produces a characteristic sound of the friction of a piston against a cylinder during operation. There is no oil in it. And THANKS for the comment !!!
And if you vacuum out the particles with a vacuum cleaner ?!
I’ve already cleaned it two times, attached a soft rubber hose (bought in a pharmacy) to the vacuum cleaner’s hose using electrical tape, diameter about 8mm. According to the instructions, he lifted the mirror and vacuumed the whole chamber. Using the lens as a magnifying glass, I looked over the entire surface of the matrix, where the dust particles did not clean, went through with a dry brush, and then repeated the procedure with a vacuum cleaner, it turned out fine. The main thing is not to touch the matrix hose, and that would not shake hands. Good luck.
Any executions with any wonderful pear-pumps-vacuum cleaners should be carried out only where there is no dust of her majesty. And it is ... everywhere, even in spacecraft (ask the astronauts). Then, before cleaning the inside of the camera, thoroughly vacuum your room with a vacuum cleaner with an aquafilter. Wipe everything that is wiped with a damp cloth, then rinse the vacuum cleaner again for an hour, just shake the air in the room. Then remove everything from yourself to the swimming trunks, spray the closed room - from the ceiling - with a spray bottle. Let the moisture and dust particles settle.
And then, without fussing, start gradually casting a spell over the camera.
Remove the lens, cover the body with the cap. As number one - externally spray the body (both tools and hands) with antistatic agent, wipe with a new special. a Chinese rag from the smallest drops of static ...
And here, dear ones, I do not advise using anything cooler than a good photo pear (the very strong empty air in the room is dangerous!). If the pear does not help, be aware that a serious cleaning of the matrix is required. Still dry? Or is it already wet? The master knows best (this is my opinion) ...
If your camera is relatively expensive and you earn money with blood and sweat, stomp to the workshop. Even if she, the workshop, is in another city!
... Tell me, will you even cut your appendix out of a big drunk? But the simplest operation!
Well you spun.
Yah. I wet the mop with the product, took off the lens right at the computer - wiped it - put on the lens.
Made test frames, checked. Not perfect? Again.
It's 3 minutes. 80% of times in 1 pass everything becomes perfect. 99% - for 2.
Why so much drama in the form of swimming trunks?
I won't cut the appendix myself. How I will not replace a cracked lens in a lens or a dead transistor / capacitor on a motherboard.
But to wash your head with shampoo is easy. It is not necessary for specialists to take it to a service center.
what mops did you use?
it's easier to go to the pool there is no dust)))
Good day! Who used the Lenspen SK-1A SensorKlear II for matrix cleaning? What can you say about him?
http://fotomag.com.ua/lenspen-sk-1a-sensorklear-ii-info.html
I join the question. Everything just goes on the video.
Another question: does the matrix tend to get dirty only during frequent changes of lenses? Or can you use one lens and still this procedure can not be avoided?
If you do not remove the lens, the probability of dust ingress tends to zero ... another question concerns the wear of the camera mechanism and the presence of lubricants in the mechanical assemblies ... which can get on the matrix over time. Temperature drops, which cause both the optics and the matrix to fog up, crystallize on the surface and are deposited. But these are all secondary and less dangerous cases, when spots that interfere with the image will appear on the matrix. - nonsense.
Do not remove the lens - then you do not need to clean)
I have been using this system for over a year. I often change lenses, I do not observe sterility conditions. So, a thing convenient for fine dust. I blow off a large amount of dirt with a balloon of air, then I pass this pencil under the Lenspenovskaya magnifying glass. Naturally no pressure, everything is very gentle. It takes about 15 minutes, once a month you can afford.
The illuminated magnifier in this set is Lenspen's coolest invention.
I don’t know about oil and stains, but small debris is easy to clean. In general, you can use it, only for the first time you need to breathe deeply so that your hands do not tremble)
He asked a question in the photo forum, many say that you can use it (but without fanaticism of course). Although adhering dirt is difficult to wipe, it is more suitable for cosmetic care of the sensor.
PS Some are categorically against the use of such a Lenspen.
Tell me, please, how soft a brush should be used so as not to damage the matrix, preferably exact names and terms to ask in the store.
Kiba - take it to the office. service, and it is better that it was not Nikonovsky))) do not climb with straight hands to the matrix - you will look at it from top to bottom when cleaning .... you will breathe ... saliva or whatever will get in - (and this is for anyone - such particles that cannot be seen with the eye at close range) and on the diaphragm 19 it will be seen .... then - in order to clean the matrix with any means - it must be degreased .... but you won't find such a tool ... (you also need to dry it correctly! Only the handles from the Lens Spin set for cleaning matrices can do this ... and then they are not recommended to be used for total matrix cleaning .. (only single large dust particles should be removed - which are already on the diaphragm 5.6 Give it to the service so that the soul was in place and then they did not regret it. I checked it myself on a killed DSLR for the sake of practice ... it's good that there was old stuff - I don't mind ...: I dirtied it.
Exactly! It's nice when smart advice comes across ... You can also clean it yourself, but, you must admit, the master will do it (at times!) Better than you, a beginner. It's like laying tiles ... It seems that everything is simple, understandable, and I've read and seen enough advice, and stocked up on various tools, even practiced ... But you will definitely screw up something! Even for the third time laying and laying ... Experience, like skill, is a gain.
EVERYONE! ! !
If you BLOW or BLOW on the matrix “you can blow a pear to the pentaprism system !!”, but NO on the matrix: you just aim STATIC ELECTRICITY on the matrix - didn't you go through physics at school ???? after cleaning, in an instant, new dust will fly in even more than the previous one ... ahaha, I cried when I made myself such an entertaining thing :), so you need to blow in some sterile box - probably))))
I advise everyone to give it to the service and after cleaning the matrix to check the quality of work !! in Nikon's official service - they work badly !! their work needs to be monitored constantly, with regard to cleaning .. and in general ... they do it through J. "a stone was thrown into their garden"
Blowing another thing through a straw or a hose ... as the craftsmen advise on the topics above, you can probably ... only here they are craftsmen ... and YOU? _? (: HZ: how it actually turns out.
It’s better to poke and remove the lens less and do not worry about cleaning for 4 years. (Then buy a new one, and sell the old one as zero, with a clean matrix)
Good evening!
Arkadiy, I read it constantly, I will re-read your blog, and that’s what I want for everything. May I have a meal for you to the guests of the site: I have seen a problem on my D90, одна in the photo there is one and the same blue (violet) speck, one and one hot pixel, I’m pink, no other, I’m all in love, I’m all fond of it to scrape the axis, the circling speck is absolutely invisible when vitrimcy is more than 2 seconds. for any ІСО, nі іnі bіnі nі sinyoї, a noise suppressor for a window of exceptions (tayin znіdno іnstrucії pratsyuvid 8 sec. window-boxes), a noise suppressor for ІСО animages, I can’t see it so much. Dyakuyu for vidov!
I bought a set of two green-wedge mops, but I cleaned my Nikon D600 with “half-frame mops”. I think that's not the point. The main thing is that after wet wiping, large stains remained, which could not be completely removed with a dry mop. I came across such an article, it may be useful http://awo-onyshchenko.livejournal.com/2145.html
Of all that I managed to read, I liked it
http://fotochisto.com.ua/chistka_right.html
clearly and specifically, although I still did not dare
I handed the camera down to a private service, in the company I didn’t like the attitude (I was not allowed to talk to the master)
Alexander, what is the result of cleaning? I also have a D600 with a bunch of oil stains.
In private, they showed and cleaned everything in 40 minutes. I watched the process. They gave a guarantee for two weeks.
Good day everyone. I shot more than 90 thousand frames on the Nikon D110, and a little less than 600 thousand on the D30. I have never cleaned the matrix, here are some comparative photos ...http://s53.radikal.ru/i139/1401/45/be207d95ce01.jpg
http://s020.radikal.ru/i705/1401/31/36dc0f6bda9e.jpg
The first frame with the Nikon D90, as you can see, shot 110 thousand frames with 3 lenses, constantly shifted, and the matrix, like new, pleases, but the second link, this frame with the Nikona D600, shot only one wedding season, and 24-70F2.8 was almost a staffer, sometimes the sweat caught, but rarely, the matrix in the trash, here you have stories about the matrix on the 600th!
Good afternoon, I bought myself a mirrorless Samsung NX200, only at home I noticed that there was a fingerprint on the matrix. This does not affect the quality of the photo, is it necessary to clean and generally what to do in this situation?
I don’t remember now where it was, in my opinion at the Kharkov forum. There a man told me how somewhere in the wilds, a hundred kilometers from civilization, he decided to blow on the matrix. He blew, and at the same time spat there. Accidentally. Nothing to do, took either a cotton pad or a cotton swab - and wiped it off. And nothing. Kind of like a sensor, i.e. matrix, the top is still glazed. Fool-proof type. You still have to try to damage the matrix. And we, amateurs, have nothing to do with this. As long as the clods of dirt cannot be seen with the naked eye, there is nothing to deliberately check. Who, in fact, closes the diaphragm to 16-22 for you? Me not.
I bought a pencil for cleaning in the M-video for 800r, 2 times already used it, specifically I have enough
I don’t earn photos and therefore it’s inexpedient to clean the matrix in the service. On all my photos I see a little dust only from aperture 11-16. And I have to use such diaphragms at best every couple of months. Even for landscapes, enough for me is 8. I myself do not differ with straight hands and there is no special desire to clean by hand yet.
But I am especially surprised by the advice of some people both on this site and on others - to change optics less. What then is the point of buying a DSLR and using it with one single lens? For each camera I have a simple cheap set for two main occasions in the life of a photographer - a set of zooms for well-lit places and reportage, a set of fixes for subjects, portraits and twilight. But even with only two lenses per carcass, you often have to shoot with one glass during the day and with another glass in the evening. And what about people who have one carcass and need to use either a shirik, then a telephoto, or a standard? And what about people with sets of fixes? For myself, I found a simple way out - do not take a steam bath. You just need to remember that technology works for you, not you for it. That cameras quickly become outdated and cheaper - there is no point in grooming and cherishing them. In 5 years your super-sophisticated fotik for 40 thousand will reluctantly buy for 5-7 thousand at a flea market. Look even at the professional equipment - nikon d3 can already be bought at the price of d5300 with a whale. In general, worse than advice not to change the glass can only be advice - take care of the shutter and click less often, do not use the series. If you are poor and it is a pity for you to snap off the entire shutter resource on d7100 or 70d (and this is extremely difficult to do), then take something simpler, which you will not worry about as a small child. There are people who take on credit or with their last money the most sophisticated DSLR with a whale and then spread this nonsense about the fact that there is no need to change glasses and no need to shoot in series. So why take an expensive camera down? My photo is just a hobby, and not the main one and not the most expensive one. Therefore, I decided for myself that it is better to buy a more modest camera than to be afraid for it. A year ago I could have taken the d600, but I changed my mind and bought a used d5100 and I am glad about it. I would have spent a lot of money on the d600 and would have worried about it, but I am not at all sorry to take the d5100 with me, carry it in a bag with other cameras and glasses, even without any covers. And I don't mind using the recently bought small 400d even in the light rain and carrying it everywhere - after all, its price is less than $ 100. In general, what did I bring all this to? Do not feel sorry for the technique, its purpose is to work and please you. Happy shots!
And the Pastor is right, but not quite - as it were, it seems to be ... That is, the Pastor is not completely right. And that's why…
If you don’t save, do not spare the equipment, the tool (your own or government boat, a shovel, a tractor, a rake, an ax, a bicycle, a camera), then you are worthless as a worker, a user.
Yes, and about the main thing. And which of you, if you look seriously, will you get a creator-creator ?! Weekly chickens laugh.
Exactly. Cleaning the sensor of my d80 will cost a little cheaper than the d80 itself :)
This is if you do it in the service. But you can do it yourself, if the upper limbs are not anally deployed. I somehow had D70s (got a cheap deal), so there the matrix was such as if it were sneezed on it. Nothing, completely cleaned up in a couple of hours (this time included constant tests).
And I once had the imprudence to clean the matrix on my own Canon 40D. Having carefully studied a lot of forums and "wise" advice on the topic, I bought Pec-Pad lint-free wipes, ideally, according to the size of the matrix, cut a plastic card so that, by winding a napkin on a strip, make a "correct" and inexpensive mop. I bought an expensive, special liquid Eclipse, turned on the shower in the bathroom so that there was as little dust in the air as possible, put the device on a tripod, took off almost all my clothes (after all, there was always a lot of dust on it :)) turned on a bunch of light, put on a jewelry eyepiece… inhale-exhale, a drop of liquid on the “mop”, careful, trained movement back and forth and that's it - no dust! As well as there was no coating (Indium Tin Oxide) on the matrix ... Eclipse liquid dissolved it quickly and irrevocably! There was a heavy shock, especially after so many preparations ... Then I realized that for optics - Eclipse, and for matrices Eclipse E2. So, one letter "E" ruined my device. The cost of repairs was incommensurate with the cost of the device, and I had to sell my favorite forty cheaply. Later I bought a seven (7D) and decided to never clean the matrix again :)
I have been using the device with varying intensity for almost four (!) Years. I change glasses often, if possible, change them on a tripod, necessarily - mount down. When there is no tripod, I also try to keep the camera mount down when changing lenses. If outside, then also with your back to the wind. There is practically no dust on the matrix! At f 16-18, etc., two or three specks of dust can be seen, but now I don't bother with that anymore. Really, you shouldn't pay attention to such nonsense, because, even for shooting small objects at 100 mm focal length. f 9-14 is enough for the head, and then diffraction is all the same. Such is the story :)
On the website of the company Photographic solution, INC, which produces matrix and optical camera care products, it is reported that at present only the only E-Clipse liquid is available, which is used to clean both lenses and matrices (E-Clipse E2 has been discontinued). Moreover, manufacturers of equipment such as Eastman Kodak, Fuji and Leica officially in their recommendations offer a means of cleaning the matrices and lenses of this particular company. Yes, Canon and Nikon do not have official recommendations, but a large number of owners of these cameras have successfully used PSI tools for a long time, and there have never been complaints from them.
Here's another faithful voice to be heard! On their own mistakes - both fools and clever people learn! A wise person avoids mistakes.
How did you know that there was no coverage? Can it be visually determined?
Please tell me, is it dust? http://vk.com/kashchej?z=photo11546877_329670929%2Fphotos11546877 (100% crop). What to do about it? Thanks.
People ... people do not be afraid to clean the matrix and do not listen to those who (for some reason) did not succeed.
Here is my experience:
I noticed spots in the sky, in other photos it was not visible or did not pay attention. Here I tried to clean with various improvised means, but I did not try the chisel: http://fotki.yandex.ru/users/ur7iod/album/443766/
All the same, it did not work, I just drove it all from place to place.
Our city is small, some guys work in services, asked ... somehow hesitantly promised to clean it, realized that they were afraid, and the price was turned down.
I climbed into the forums, including in this thread I was and decided to buy a set: http://fotki.yandex.ru/users/ur7iod/album/443767/ and clean it with your non-crooked hands (as people say) to clean the matrix. Everything turned out quickly, this illuminated observation apparatus is a very simple and powerful thing! By the way, I can advise you to use it not only for cleaning the matrix, but also to check the quality of the matrix, when buying a new camera, with it you can see every speck of dust, even microscopic, there is an adjustment for vision, by the way, I have +2,5 glasses. I did everything without them, of course.
The date of the cleaning shows when I did it. I began to notice again - there are a couple of spots in the sky, but knowing from previous experience that this pair, only the largest "garbage", turned out to be so. The pencil for cleaning has dried up during this time, so nothing works with it, I can only drive a little dust back and forth.
Here's what happened, this is again: a vacuum cleaner, a pear, a brush and a dried "pencil": http://fotki.yandex.ru/users/ur7iod/album/443769/
As you can see, the dust moves a little, but new spots are formed. In short, I drove the dust as best I could, so that it would not be too large, I will order a new "pencil" or "mops" with cleaning fluid. Camera automation is generally useless.
I confirm the words of Arkady: “In fact, it's a little scary to climb to the camera matrix, but when you do this often, all fear disappears,” the second part of his statement. True, I had no fear, the main thing is to understand how to raise the mirror during cleaning. I have Nikon D7000 and it is easy in it, I haven't seen it in others - I don't know.
Feel free to buy the kit and try, why pay the wound money for what you can do yourself. Once done and you will like it. I have not tried mops, but the pencil collects well.
I read that you can also use a cleaning cloth wrapped in a piece, cut to the size of a bank card, it is elastic and tough. Also information for thought. Do not be afraid - "it is not the gods who burn the pots."
If there is an opportunity not to clean the matrix, then there is no need to climb there, I read it and put my hands in it. He cursed everything in the world, instead of just one speck, he fucked up the matrix, so I don’t know how to live on! Our Nikon service is shit. It can be seen that the deferred capital will have to be spent on new glass, spent on a professional set for cleaning matrices.
It is better to regularly clean the velvet “casing” of the mine from dust with the sticky side of a narrow scotch tape up, collecting a lot of fine dust, including poorly adhering pile of the velvet coating itself (relevant for newly purchased cameras). And when the mirror moves, all this garbage drives all over the mine! It is better not to climb to the matrix, maximum blow off the dust with a pear after the above cleaning, then repeat the cleaning.
Arkady, your material is used by English-language sites! http://hardware-today.com/articles/cameras/how_to_clean_ccd_sensor_on_digital_slr_cameras
Here it is, glory and recognition!)))
you can remove dust from the matrix with an electric pump for inflating lifebuoys and so on, a silicone hose, go to the dropper hose and gently suck the dust, you can raise the dust from the matrix with a column brush and suck out the dust again, remove one spot with a lenspen with a pencil, do not wipe it, just touch it Blowing with a pump is raising all the dust
By the way, in any room there is 50 times more dust than on the street! It’s easy to check: turn on a spotlight or lamp at night in the dark and you will see everything yourself. I try not to change my optics often without special need and do my cleaning in the warm season after rain in the nature in a deserted place (or in the country house) right on in the open air. I use the good old method described here: http://fotochisto.com.ua/chistka_right.html