Cleaning the camera sensor

Cleaning the matrix is ​​a vital necessity. Below are examples of a dirty matrix not for the faint of heart who suffer from heart disease, please do not read further.

Matrix cleaning. Article from Radozhiva.

Matrix cleaning. Article from Radozhiva.

One of the disadvantages of modern digital SLR cameras compared to film, is that camera sensor gets dirty over time. In film cameras, a new piece of film is allocated for each frame, so there is simply no problem with pollution for the film.

How to check the matrix of the camera for contamination?
Very simple. For this you need take a picture on the closed diaphragm of a plain background... The easiest way to do this is to put the camera in aperture priority mode (mode A or Av on the mode dial). Set the minimum allowable aperture value, this means that the F number should become the maximum, most often F16, F22, F32, F36. Turn off auto ISO and set the minimum allowable ISO value: most often it is ISO 50, ISO 100, ISO 200. After that, just take a picture.

Please note that the focal length of the lens does not affect the check of the dirtiness of the matrix. A solid background should be photographed only to make it easier to notice dirt on the matrix. When the aperture is closed, it will be long excerptIt’s best to mount the camera on a tripod or on a stationary object. Length excerpts does not affect validation. If there is no tripod, you can simply take off the blue sky.

Dirt on the matrix

Dirt on the matrix

In the photo above, I made the settings ISO 100, F16, 50mm. In order to more clearly see all the fear and horror of a dirty matrix, you can set the maximum image contrast in the program editor. See below.

Dirt on the matrix

Dirt on the matrix

By arrows I showed the dirt that I had on Nikon D200, my camera Nikon D200 not cleaned for more than a year.

Attention: Do not be afraid of a dirty matrix. At open apertures (at apertures up to F / 8.0), dirt will hardly affect the quality of pictures. You can shoot your whole life on F1.4-F4.0 and not worry at all about the cleanliness of the sensor.

Contrast enhancement to see dirt

Contrast enhancement to see dirt

Do I need to clean the matrix?

Everyone decides for himself. I need a clean matrix, as I earn money for a living by photography. I often have to shoot scenes with a closed aperture (group portrait, landscape, photo for reviews), so I monitor the cleanliness of the matrix and try to take my cameras every 6 months to clean the matrix. Cleaning the matrix costs from 40 to 100 cu and takes 1-2 days. It is quite expensive, and the cleaning result does not always suit me. Therefore, I decided to do this business myself. For a more or less reasonable price of 60 cu I came across the Green Clear Sensor Cleaning System (Non full frame Size) for DSLR Cameras. The system allows cleaning about 80 times with a bottle and 3 times with special cleaning mop brushes.

Integrated matrix cleaning systems

Now it has become very popular to install matrix cleaning systems in CZK (digital-mirror cameras). My practice shows that such systems cannot completely protect the matrix from dirt. Basically, cleaning systems are based on the fact that the matrix vibrates and shakes off the dust. But dirt is not only dust, it can be streaks from condensation or something else. Cleaning systems simply cannot cope with this. On my Nikon D90 with the cleaning system I had to take it to the service after a year of use and the active cleaning function. I often fall into the hands of cameras with cleaning and I always see dirt on the matrix. So, cleaning systems for 2012 cannot provide the quality of cleaning that is so strongly advertised by manufacturers.

For owners of CZK Nikon will be useful article about the software method of combating dust and dirt on the matrix.

Matrix Cleaning System

Green Clear Sensor Cleaning System (Non full frame Size) for DSLR

How I cleaned the matrix:

The Green Clear Sensor kit includes a can of some kind of gas, three dust suction tips and three sets of mops for cleaning. You need to read the instructions for the Green Clear Sensor or watch the training video. I also had a small Russian-language instruction in the kit. Most of all, it was difficult for me to install the valve on the cylinder - you first need to strangle it, and then tighten it.

  1. I collected a vacuum pump. By simply attaching a valve to the cylinder, to the valve an extension tube, to the tube one of the cleaning tips.
  2. Set up the camera in order to clean it.
  3. With the help of a pump, I sucked up dirt.
  4. Using a mop, I cleaned the sensor.

In fact, it’s a little scary to go to the matrix of the camera, but when you do this often, all fear disappears.

Before and after cleaning

Before and after cleaning

Attention: I advise you to read the instructions for your camera. In order to clean the matrix of the camera, you need to raise the mirror in front of the matrix. There is a special function for this, usually called “mirror up” or “mirror up for cleaning”. On Nikon, when this function is activated, when you press the shutter button, the camera raises the mirror and remains in this position until the camera is turned off. If the battery charge is less than 60%, the mirror up function will be disabled. Do not use slow shutter speed to clean the sensor. My friend was cleaning the matrix on shutter speed at 30s and got carried away, the camera lowered the curtains and the mirror - nothing good came of it. Also, in the specialized mode, the camera does not take a picture - no voltage is supplied to the matrix, which also reduces the risk of damaging something.

Conclusions:

Sometimes you need to check the camera matrix for contamination and take the camera to a service, or clean the matrix yourself. Self-cleaning is 3-4 times cheaper for after-sales service. Built-in systems for cleaning the matrix from dirt can only postpone serious cleaning of the matrix in time.

Thank you for attention. Arkady Shapoval.

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Comments: 214, on the topic: Cleaning the camera matrix

  • Julia

    Thank! =)

  • Denis

    Arkady tell me.
    Were there traces of oil (from the shutter) on your matrix (as pollution)? And is it really possible to distinguish the origin of the dust on the matrix (villi, oil drop, dust)?
    Also tell me, at what aperture you can (or even need) to photograph a beach or a snowy mountain (all in sunny weather)? If it's up to F8, then I think the thought of "dust" can be discarded as a major headache.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      If you try very hard, then you can track, but it's not worth it. Take a look at the page on how to photograph the landscape.

  • template

    Arkady, what do you recommend wiping the lens glass with?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Special wipes for optics with microfiber.

  • Novel

    Tell me how to clean the mirror of the camera, otherwise it became noticeably dirty after a Lenspen pencil and a napkin.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      The same microfiber cloth, only gently.

  • Jury

    Hello, Arkady.
    On some of my photos I began to notice horizontal or vertical stripes, what caused this?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      At high ISO - signal readout tracks.

      • Jury

        that's the problem that I put 100-200 units.
        Canon 7, camera 1 year, run 8000

      • Jury

        Appears on a black or dark background?

        • Arkady Shapoval

          Send an example to me in the mail, we'll see.

  • Jury

    sent to your Vkontakte page

    • Arkady Shapoval

      I asked for mail, in contact I cut the photo to 1000 pixels, you can’t say anything about it.

  • Jury

    Threw you in the mail

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Answered.

  • Dmitriy

    And if I need to clean it now, like you did after?)

    • Arkady Shapoval

      It is necessary to clean if dirt is in the way, if it is not in the way when photographing, you can not clean.

      • Dmitriy

        It's just a d3100 camera and it's only a year old. Purchased in March. If you let it clean up in the service, will it not remain and everything will be at the same level? And yet, will dust get in anyway, or if my lenses are not on the street but at home - will there be less dust?

        • Arkady Shapoval

          Contaminates not only dust, but also moisture. If you change it carefully, there will be less problems.

  • Arkady Shapoval

    Most likely, ordinary dirt, if cleaning does not help (and this trash is in the upper right corner of the matrix, in the image it is also in the lower left), then there may be a marriage.

    • anonym

      Thanks. Resolved, mopped with eclipse.

  • Sasha

    I changed the lens and drew attention to the mirror ... There was a big byaka below and a couple of smaller ones in the middle. Somehow it became bad from what he saw. But when he raised the mirror, he was close to losing consciousness: a multi-colored spot was visible on the matrix (1/3 mm in the eye). On test photos I fell into despondency ... the left side was covered in artifacts.
    At my own peril and risk, I had never done this before, I took a medical pear and ... cotton swabs in my hands. He blew out what was possible, when he raised the mirror, very carefully began to wipe the stain. I managed to remove everything, but next time I decided not to climb there without Green Clean. Arkady thanks for the article! Helped 100%

  • Stanislas

    Thank you for a good little article. Actually, you rarely shoot on f22, so I completely refused to clean it. I have only 3 points. There are no hairs)

  • bessarabkin

    Arkady, and if on a shot to determine the contamination of the matrix, I found a circle in the center of the image, what could it be?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Anything you need to watch.

  • bessarabkin

    I can show if there is a desire

  • bessarabkin

    ??

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Show.

  • bessarabkin

    Sent by mail. THX.

  • Salavat

    And I just have a separate "carcass" for each of my lenses, and I never change lenses)))

  • Novel

    Arkady! Good evening. Faced with dust and dirt on the matrix, the Nikon D7000 camera. I have been using it for 1,5 years. The first manifestations appeared after 2-3 months. I carried it to the SC to clean. After 1-2 months, spots appeared on the matrix again. Carried again. One cleaning comes out 250 UAH. I want to add that the spots are views on the diaphragm from f / 4,5. So I periodically wear the D7000 for cleaning. As for me, a little expensive, so I decided to learn how to clean the matrix myself. There is a lot of information on the subject in networks. Most advised to use eclipse E2 and mops (or PEC * PAD wipes). Have you cleaned like this? If so, which eclipse was used: eclipse E2 or just eclipse. I ask because the D7000 matrix is ​​covered with a layer of Indium tin oxide. As I understand it, eclipse erases it, but eclipse E2 does not. But over time, the eclipse E2 was discontinued. Remained a simple eclipse, and as I understand it, it is suitable for all matrices. But one thing, but. Nowhere do they write that it is safe for coating Indium tin oxide. The question is, is it possible to clean the D7000 matrix with it (eclipse)? And will he harm this special? coating?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      I can not answer this question.

    • Andrei

      Good evening Roman,
      just like you asked a similar question, found such a description (http://goo.gl/ffGl6):
      Eclipse fluid
      The highest purity specialized liquid for cleaning matrices from Tin Oxide. The impurity content in it is less than 5 parts per million. Eclipse dries so fast that it can be the recommended cleaning agent for tin oxide matrices (Indium Tin Oxide CCD or CMOS). After application together with the Sensor Swab, it evaporates with absolutely no visible residue, which makes this liquid optimal for this type of matrix. Please note that it is not recommended to use this liquid for cleaning lenses and filters.
      Note: Photosol no longer releases Eclipse and Eclipse 2 fluids - Eclipse replaces all these fluids.

    • Alexey

      Hi, I have exactly the same problem on the D7000, but the spots appeared a bit later, a year later, I didn’t even notice at first, then I took a closer look. He wiped the lens up and down, realized that it wasn’t the matter, got to the matrix and saw 2 dirty spots there, at first thought it was dust, climbed there with a brush and pear, it got even more dirt, at first he got scared, thought that it damaged the coating with a brush, but I only slightly touched it, apparently there was dirt or grease on the brush, because I just keep it in a bag from under the camera. Then I read the article and found a similar problem. In general, I took fiber and cotton wool on a stick, I almost wiped everything with fiber, and I finished off what was left around the edges with a cotton wool stick, and as a result, not a single speck * ___ *, I'm really happy.

  • Victor

    Hello!
    1) Has anyone used a special Lenspen SensorKlear Loupe to clean the matrix? The right thing or consumer divorce?
    2) With the purchase of a used 5-ka, there was such a problem. Buy mops - it is not clear where. What can this mop be made of?

    • Eugene

      I have a Lenspan set with a magnifying glass. “Old-style” magnifier with four LEDs.
      I liked the magnifying glass very much, you can see everything, the sharpness in the zone, but the matrix pencil is full of slag! I left more trash on the matrix ...

  • Maksim

    I cleaned the matrix with mops, less dust. But looking at it several points are visually visible, it feels like dust particles have not been wiped off, but everyone on the internet writes that they cannot be seen with the naked eye, so I think I have it and how to deal with it.

  • Alexey

    Arkady, why put the camera on a tripod? After all, the dust is on the matrix and not on the white wall. If you install the camera motionless, then we just risk photographing the dust on a white object, and not on the matrix. On the contrary, it’s best to look at the white screen of the same monitor and move the camera when shooting to exclude this.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      The point is to achieve a long shutter speed, without a tripod.

      • Alexey

        Then the sentence “Excerpt length does not affect validation” can only confuse ...

  • Dmitriy

    And I use microfiber and a bit of "Mister Muscle" (green). I tried it with isopropyl - stains, but the muscle dries instantly and there are no streaks.
    On the matrix there is a filter made of glass to scratch it is difficult, so do not be afraid of wet cleaning, the main thing is not to overdo it with the pressure and the amount of liquid. If there are a couple of points left, do not worry too much.
    To check, pinch on the maximum aperture, set the shutter speed to slow, turn off autofocus and BEAR in front of a blank sheet (say Word) open on the monitor (so that the unevenness of the monitor's lighting blurred)

  • Dmitriy

    I add that I cut off a strip from a napkin and put on a mop that got with thermal grease for a computer cooler. You can cut a mop from an unusable plastic card.
    And a little trick. I have a nikon d5100 and its shaft is covered with fleecy material and it collects great debris, which in the future will be on the matrix, and so I clean the shaft with adhesive tape wrapped on tweezers with the sticky side up.

  • Nicholas

    Arkady, good day! After cleaning the matrix with the means of the camera itself, all the dust is shifted except for one spot in the middle. D7000 camera. I heard it has problems with oil splashes on the matrix. But what the oil looks like, and how the dust is - is not clear. I am attaching a photo. http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/819/matrixao.jpg/
    And it’s not yet clear what to consider as the standard of a clean and dirty matrix (the photos are small in the article). For example, the matrix in my picture is very dirty or in tolerance?

    • Max

      It might be butter. I myself have a D7000 and I myself have encountered the same spots. The pear is not blown out of the way. I'm not particularly worried because it is visible only at extreme values ​​of apertures like 22 and more, on which I do not shoot. For myself, I decided that I would use the camera for a month or two or three, maybe more, and even then I would go over the sensor with a mop (or some other means) - at the same time, the oil will be sprayed out, if this is it :)

  • Alexander

    Hello! the other day I bought a canon 1100d, found broken pixels on the matrix, went to change it, changed it, but from the window, they said no more. In general, I am afraid to take it from the window, I know that marriage is often put there, and even they are gathering dust without a box. But, there is nothing to do, I ventured. I did not find any broken pixels, but when I read your article I decided to check the cleanliness of the matrix. I took a white background, aperture 29, 22, 16, 8. At 22 and 29, a dark risk is visible from below, and a dot in the right corner. At aperture 8, smaller but visible. Please tell me, does this apply to a warranty case? I doubt that they will change me, because the photo is not yet visible. And yet, is this normal for a new camera? or does this only appear after prolonged use? It looks like a new camera.

    • establishment

      IMHO do not worry, you almost never have to take pictures with a diaphragm of more than 10, and after a while, the matrix will still settle on the matrix.
      And yet, if the dirt is not visible on ordinary photos, it is better not to go to the matrix because there is a chance, by inexperience, to dirty it even more strongly instead of cleaning. You need to climb when the dirt is really noticeable in photos taken in normal mode.

      • Arkady Shapoval

        In the studio I often shoot on F / 8, blots are already visible on a white background. Landscapes in the closed, also, blots are visible in the sky. Not so simple.

  • Alexander

    Another snag ... I checked the matrix again for hot pixels. Canon EOS 1100, I shoot mostly at ISO 100. By chance, I set 800, 1600, 6400 for the experiment. In addition to wild noises, red and blue dots appeared. Of course, what to expect from a budget DSLR, at 3200 ISO !. I dropped the ISO to the minimum -100, set the shutter speed to 30 seconds, the dots are visible when zoomed in. when you turned on noise reduction at a shutter speed of 10 seconds, they disappeared. On short exposures, there are no problems. Although, in principle, a 10 second exposure will be enough for an amateur. Who faced this? Is this the norm, hot pixels at slow shutter speeds and higher ISO? Does this happen in expensive DSLRs?
    Maybe the matrix deteriorated from shooting in sunny weather, although the lens did not direct directly to the sun, otherwise I would be blinded through the viewfinder.

    • Victor

      “Defective” pixels are not a defect, they can appear both on TV and computer monitors, and on any other equipment that produces a picture by pixels.

      At certain exposure values, a colored dot or “hot pixel” may appear in the image. This is caused by electrical noise and is not associated with “hot pixels” that appear only on the monitor. There are 2 factors that cause the appearance of "hot pixels" in the image: long exposure and dead pixels.

      Hot pixels when shooting images with long exposures or high ISOs:
      “Hot pixels” may appear when shooting with long exposures and shooting at high ISOs, as all electrical circuits create arbitrary noise. If the sensor is exposed for a long time, the charge accumulates in the pixel, even if no light comes in. This is called dark noise and appears in the image as multi-colored pixels. This effect can be corrected using the noise reduction modes presented in the camera menu. Recorded multi-colored dots will be deleted during noise reduction. This phenomenon is not a manufacturing defect and can be eliminated using the noise reduction parameters offered in the camera menu. For more information, see page 291 of the instructions for the D3S.

      Broken or “hot pixels” in normal exposure conditions:
      In some situations, “hot pixels” may appear in images if you did not use a slow shutter speed during shooting. Such pixels are visible in every image and are sometimes called “dead pixels”. Such pixels can be removed at an authorized technical support center by matrix conversion. This service is called "Technology for recalculating and masking" broken "pixels" and is performed using computer programs. Recalculation and masking of “broken” pixels does not affect the quality of the captured images or the functionality of the camera. During operation, the camera can go through the process of recounting and masking “broken” pixels several times; this procedure does not have a detrimental effect on camera functions or images.

      The appearance of “dead” pixels can be caused by many external factors, such as being at a high altitude, external radiation, or even flashes in the sun. Since these factors are not under the control of users, the appearance of pixels should not be regarded as a product defect, but in some cases they can be eliminated at an official Nikon service center.

      If “hot” or dead pixels appear on images shot at shutter speeds shorter than 1/15 of a second and ISO below 600, contact a service center to recalculate and mask the dead pixels. Detailed information about the direction of the camera to the service center and possible payments in this case can be found in the service center.

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