For the opportunity Nikon D7000 Review many thanks to Igor
Review of the Nikon D7000 body. Near Vega-11U.
Nikon D7000 is a very unusual digital SLR camera. On the one hand, it has some indicators better than professional cameras Nikon D300, D300s, on the other hand: Nikon D7000 does not reach the professional level. Historically, the Nikon D7000 is difficult to attribute to one of two categories, therefore, I will dwell on this in more detail.
Signs of a Nikon D7000 indicating a professional level:
- Compatible with old manual (non-studded) lenses AI-S. The camera works perfectly with any manual lens, even with non-native AI compatible.
- The presence of two slots for memory cards
- Save option 14-bit RAW File
- Dustproof and waterproof
- 100% frame coverage in the viewfinder, a clean viewfinder
- The presence of over short excerptsequal to 1 / 8000s.
Signs indicating that the Nikon D7000 refers to amateur (amateur cameras)
- At the camera part of the body is made of plastic. The case is not all made of metal alloy, as in older models D200, D300, D300s.
- The camera does not support quick cards CF
- Frame buffer total 9 (maybe 10) RAW shots
- The burst speed is fixed and does not expand with the booster
- Well, of course, the presence of automatic modes of use, as in a number of models Nikon D80, D90.
- Camera does not allow saving uncompressed RAW file
I stand in solidarity with Nikon, which classifies the Nikon D7000 as an amateur camera. It so happened that the line of professional cameras is Nikon D100, D200, D300, D300s, D500. In turn, the range of cameras Nikon D70, D70s, D80, D90 has been improved and supplemented by Nikon D7000 cameras, D7100, D7200, D7500. You can see for yourself composed by me Nikon camera geneology chart. Therefore, the Nikon D7000 is simply an improved level of advanced amateur cameras, but not a professional line.
Review of the Nikon D7000 body. Redesigned shooting mode selector.
The most important thing in the Nikon D7000 for the photographer:
1. CMOS sensor in 16.2 megapixels DX format with crop factor 1.5x. The same matrix is in Nikon D5100. The same number of megapixels in the flagship Nikon D4. The number of megapixels is not so importantbut the working range of ISO is 100-6400 and expands to 25.600. Believe the range ISO 100-25.600 - this is already serious. Moreover, we can say that at ISO 3200 you can very often get a satisfactory result. Funny, but Nikon released an amateur Nikon D3200which has as much as 24MP. True, the quality of pictures at high ISOs is much worse than full-frame cameras, such as D700, D3 etc.
Very similar to the fact that Nikon D7000 uses a matrix that Sony produces, the same matrix is available in cameras
- Nikon D5100
- Pentax K-30
- Pentax K-5
- Pentax K-01
- Sony a580
- Sony A55
- Sony NEX-5N
Photo on Nikon D7000
2. Burst speed 6 fps. It is worth noting that the D7000 did realize fast shooting with 14 bit RAW without losing the shooting speed. D300(s) loses shooting speed at 14 bit RAW, in fact D300(s) speed with 14 bit RAW is poor 2.5 fps. 6 fps for the Nikon D7000 is very good. I do not recommend chasing a rapid-fire camera, very often the rate of fire is not important at all. For example, in a studio, flashes are sometimes recharged within one second, and few people shoot faster than 2 fps. For home and leisurely photography I have enough Nikon D40 and 2.5 fps. But high shooting speed is important for reporting, unfortunately high speed requires a good buffer size. The buffer is where pictures are stored in the camera before being written to the memory card. An analogy can be drawn that the buffer is the camera's RAM, and the card is its hard drive. The Nikon D7000 has a small buffer, see below.
Review of the Nikon D7000 body. Rear view camera. The main panel of buttons.
3. The number of frames in the buffer depends on the image recording format. What interests me most is the buffer when shooting in RAW format, and for maximum 14bit RAW quality with lossless compressionhe makes up 9 frames. With a shooting speed of 6 fps, the camera starts to slow down after the second second of shooting. You immediately understand that the D7000 is far from a professional camera. Here are other buffer metrics:
- JPEG maximum quality, quality priority with disabled ADL, Noise reduction, High ISO Noise reduction, etc. - 15 frames.
- JPEG maximum quality, quality priority with ADL, Noise reduction, High ISO Noise reduction, etc. - 11 frames.
- RAW 12bit lossless compression - 9 frames, the file weighs about 12MB
- RAW 12bit normal compression - 9 frames, the file weighs about 11MB
- RAW 14bit lossless compression (the absolute maximum quality for Nikon D7000) - 9 frames, the file weighs about 20MB
- RAW 14bit normal compression - 9 frames, the file weighs about 15MB
Frame buffer is one of the most important indicators of camera speed... Even my old lady Nikon D200 squeezes 21 frames of continuous shooting and gives as much as 4 seconds of shooting without brakes in a series of 5 fps. The camera buffer of the Nikon D7000 in RAW mode greatly disappointed, I don’t know what those who say about the professionalism of Nikon D7000 think.
Photo on Nikon D7000
4. Nikon D7000 has convenient help with tips, different shooting modes like “night portrait” or “sports”. The camera has a convenient photo editing system. For those who are too lazy to mess around with editing programs on a computer, the Nikon D7000 has an excellent image editor built in. Also, in addition to JPEG processing, the Nikon D7000 camera supports RAW processing.
Black shutter button on the D7000. View of the shutter button and monochrome display.
5. The display of the camera is excellent, with 920.000 pixels. The display is very large and bright. Viewing images on the display is a pleasure. The same display is on Nikon D90, D300, D300s, D700, D3 etc.
Photo on Nikon D7000 Neutral Picture Control
6. The ergonomics of the camera is excellent. The additional display helps a lot. It is very convenient to configure the basic parameters for an external monochrome display. The external monochrome display has a backlight. U1, U2 modes allow you to save all the necessary settings and quickly switch between the settings of the camera U1 and U2.
Example photo on Nikon D7000
7. Nikon D7000 supports AF lenses without built-in focus motor. For example, Nikon D7000 will work fine without motor cheap and high quality lenses. Nikon 50mm F1.8D, Nikon 85mm F1.8D, Nikon 70-210mm F4.0AF etc. And also, Nikon D7000 gives the chance to work with AI, AI-S and any other old lenses. For example, the camera can easily make friends with manual lenses Nikon 50mm f / 1.2 AI-s Nikkor, Helios-81H, and Nikon 100mm F / 2.8 Series E etc .. If you specify the parameters of the manual lens in the camera menu, then matrix metering will be available exposure... The camera can store 9 'non-CPU' lenses (the same number in the more serious D300s / D3s / D3X). Only the following DX cameras could work with old lenses: Nikon D200, D300, D300s. Nikon D7000 uses a unique focus module Multi-CAM 4800DX with 39 sensors (9 cruciform)which is the same as a full-frame camera Nikon D600... 39 focus points are enough for any kind of photography. Focusing accuracy and speed are highly dependent on the lens rather than the focusing system. And the camera has a new one 2016 pixel RGB sensor measuring exposure.
Nikon D7000 - Back View
9. Viewfinder 100%. This means the following: what you see in the viewfinder when you zoom in is fully consistent with what will be in the photo. Typically, coverage is 95% of the frame. For example, Nikon D90 also 95% and often at the edges of the photo extra details appear, since they are not visible in the viewfinder. A trifle, but very nice.
Example photo on Nikon D7000
10. The camera can shoot video with a maximum quality of Full HD 1,920 X 1,080 (24p), while using a mono microphone (for stereo sound, you should buy a separate stereo microphone). The camera has automatic focus when shooting video, which they could not Nikon D90, D5000. The video is of sufficient quality (according to the reviews of my colleagues, I myself am not strong in video analysis). The maximum length of a video is 20 minutes. Of course, the camera has a Live View mode. In this mode, focusing is performed in contrast and is much slower in speed than normal focusing using the optical viewfinder and phase sensors. The Live View button is combined with the video recording button. In focus mode AF-C and with Live View turned on, the camera automatically monitors focus, even if the shutter button is not pressed.
Sample photo on Nikon D 7000
11. The flash can work in command mode on system Nikon CLS. When using external flash units SB-600, SB-700, SB-800, SB-900, SB-910 (or from third-party manufacturers) quick synchronization with shutter speeds up to 1/8000 is possible, this is very important when photographing with flash at slow shutter speeds.
Photo on Nikon D7000
12. A bunch of pleasant things: the shutter withstands at least 150.000 operations, the camera has a gyroscope, the ability to shoot at intervals, alignment (adjustment) of precise focusing and many others.
Two memory card slots on the D7000
Personal impressions:
The camera is very good. The camera menu is very large, it is not so easy to figure it out. In the review, I touched only on vital points for the photographer, if you need to find some trifle in the settings, then the instructions will help.
In many ways, the Nikon D7000 is one of the best DX-format cameras. When they ask me which advanced camera I recommend, then Nikon D7000 is the best option.if the issue price does not play a role. In my hands, in my opinion, the camera looks more like Nikon D90than on Nikon D300s. Image quality: at a high level, however, you can only talk about matrix noise, color reproduction, etc., since the image itself forms the lens and at low distinguish one camera from another. Some of my colleagues video operators shoot video on the Nikon D7000, and it is for the sake of video that they take this camera. Also, very often the Nikon D7000 is very popular as a second camera with professional photographers.
Example photo on Nikon D7000
Comparison with other, similar in functionality, cameras from Nikon
Nikon D90 VS Nikon D7000
The Nikon D7000 has a step higher ISO, and two steps higher maximum (extended) ISO. 4MP added. The viewfinder covers 100%. Support for manual lenses has been added, autofocus has appeared when shooting video, video quality has reached Full HD, and the shooting speed has increased by 1.5 fps. Another slot for memory cards has been added; the Nikon D7000 can use more capacious ones SD XC cards. The number of focus points has increased, exposure metering has improved, and a virtual horizon has been added. All in all, D7000 all better for the Nikon D90. Ergonomics and overall functionality are very similar. I do not recommend changing Nikon D90 to D7000.
Nikon D7000 VS Nikon D300, D300s
The D7000 beats the D300s at 6 fps in 14-bit RAW mode versus 2.5 fps in 14-bit RAW mode on the D300s. Also, the D7000 has 1 stop higher ISO sensitivity, better video with autofocus. But the D300s has a more robust body, more focus points (51 versus 39), support CF memory cards, higher burst speed, larger buffer and professional ergonomics. Nikon D300 performance is better for Nikon D7000. I do not recommend changing D300, D300s to Nikon D7000, and vice versa, D7000 to D300s.
Nikon D7000 has a younger brother, the continuation of the line - Nikon D7100.
Sample photo on Nikon D7000
In general, a review about Nikon D7000 can be written endlessly, the camera is simply full of different functions and settings. There are few photos in this review, since while I was testing and delving into the settings, the battery ran out and the charging was not given to me. Please note that the quality of photos depends very much on the lens and other important things when shooting.
Sample photo on Nikon D7000
The parameters shown in the photo gallery:
All shot with Nikon D7000. On-camera JPEG L. Everything was shot in NL picture control mode: contrast correction - 0, brightness - 0, saturation - 0, hue - 0, sharpness - position 9 between 0 and 9. Used white balance: 'Auto', 'Shadow' and 'Cloudy'. The size of the photos was reduced to 3 MP. All shot using a lens Nikon Nikkor AF-S 35mm 1: 1.8G DX.
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions:
Nikon D7000 is a great advanced amateur camera. Many indicators excel in the quality of the camera of a professional line. Nikon D7000 will be useful for both amateur and professional. I recommend.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
I saw that at the flea market these cameras are given with low mileage for 20k.
I read that the main problem of this camera is a strange unpredictable autofocus module, skinton and the color of the camera leading to yellow-green hues and even stirring like on the D800.
Is it true?
with autofocus on extreme points there are slight problems at some distances. but about the rest blatantly lie. shades and shades are the work of hands and eyes
Everything is subjective. With the right light, the camera works well. The rest consists of your ability to work with lighting, technology and programs. If skills are not enough, then everything that is written can take place and is often discussed on the net.
A large number of D7000 offers are not because the camera is bad. Many owners of the D7000 go to full frame, respectively, they sell this carcass.
On d 5200, the same focus is 39 points and there are no problems, even a jumping person in serial shooting catches well
All nonsense.
The camera speed is sufficient for shooting motorsport. In terms of skin tone - you need to shoot in RAW + Jpeg with any camera, then the result will be predictable. Well, put the BB in advance - then Nikon will stop turning yellow, Canon will stop turning blue, and Sony will turn green ;-)
Nikon B7000 is a really cool camera. The design is very pleasing - a durable, compact carcass with a pleasant rubber stamping fits right into your hands, you want to work with it. All buttons and control levers are conveniently located. Wide range of shutter speeds and sensitivity. Two slots for memory cards and an infrared port are just a godsend.
The display is bright with good resolution. The camera menu is fraught with many interesting subtle settings, albeit as unnecessary ones, such as the “processing menu”. The good news is that the camera parameters can be almost completely configured manually for your task.
In shooting, we were very pleased with noise reduction - color noise is not noticeable even at ISO 4000, texture grain is small and uniform (it's easy to fix in Photoshop). Very good matrix resolution.
Autofocus works well, the camera is far from the fastest, but it is suitable for a number of tasks.
The d7000 has been working for me for seven years and does not tire of proving its reliability. The quality of the camera and pictures at a height)
Hello. Has anyone d7000 already left more than 200000?
Friends! Just took this used camera. I still have no experience, but the photos are already wonderful) With a range of 24000 for 15 p. I think the option is very good. Indeed, the camera on the used market is not expensive, the owners part with it relatively cheaply, and it's worth it. Arkady says that the viewfinder is 700% a pleasant trifle, I don’t agree, it’s a very pleasant moment, it’s great that at least you don’t have to spend time on this frame, unless of course you’ve got what you’re planning) Otherwise, the settings very strong, but their diversity personally surprises me. When I get to know the camera through the manual, I scroll through most of it because for now I just don’t know how to work with it and for myself I don’t see the point. But the fact that the camera works with Soviet optics, just easy, I was surprised. In the beginning, the optics of the USSR were bought at all, and then, by reading Radozhiva's articles, I chose the D100 (from the crop ones), and I did not regret it.
Arkady, I thank you very much for your site and articles, I have not yet found such accessible and detailed information for a beginner to figure it out!
Sergey:
D7000 on the secondary is now fantastically cheap for the result it gives.
The camera has recently cost about $ 1000.
There are fewer offers for D7100 / D7200, as the camera is fresher and their output unsuccessfully fell into a collapse of currencies in the territory of the Russian Federation and Ukraine.
That's exactly why the choice fell on her)
Paaaamaaagieeeeee.
Help me choose a camera. I look at each model and want everything.
At first I looked at the Canon 60d. Megapixel norms. Swivel screen. Videography.
Then I saw the Nikon D300 prof. But without a video. And at high ISO is noisy (everyone writes like that) then he noticed the Nikon D300s
And now I read about the super camera Nikon d7000
I have a film Nikon f80. And zenith yuzal. Therefore, in M mode, I can handle it. There are also several Soviet lenses with adapters. It’s necessary that the Camera read them.
I am interested in any kind of shooting. And the report. And architecture. Nature. Macro. Portrait.
Therefore, you need something universal and professional.
Canon 5D mark 2/3/4 Nikon D600 / 610/750 or crop Nikon D7500 / 7200/7100/7000 Canon 80D / 70D / 60D / 7D / 7D Mark 2
Thank you very much, but I think 7000 will suit me. And the price is acceptable to take on hand.
Tell me, is there an article on what you should pay attention to when buying a used camera?
Good day everyone. I moved to D7000 from D90. The difference is tangible - a car of a completely different class. I had to change almost all the optics (there was only one ZUM 18 - 35 3,5 - 4,5D). Completely "moved" to the "fissa" - the picture "rings" on them. At the expense of "shaking" - with this camera the 1 / focal rule does not work, micro-smears are obtained, hence the opinion that the camera is not sharp, a faster shutter speed is needed. The D 7000 requires firm hands and a head. Jupiter37A shows miracles on this camera. In general, if you have a head and a desire to learn how to photograph - the camera is for you. With its functionality, it will help you solve any reasonable problem.
Hello everyone! Please tell me, now I have 5100, I want to switch to a 7000 camera, is it much inferior to 7100, 7200? thanks
Not much.
Thank you
I changed 5100 to 7000 - the difference is huge. And the difference is precisely in the ease of control, I constantly twist different settings when shooting, the additional screen is just a salvation. Well, the ability to use fast shutter speeds with flash is useful. U1 and U2 modes again.
it bribed me that only 16 megapixels
more than 16 megapixels on a crop - this is STUPID !!!
... now I'm selling, I want to try the fullframe, and about the camera, only positive emotions!
Hello everybody! Need help from knowledgeable people!)
I still have no experience in photography, apart from photographing on a Canon soap dish, the possibilities of which are very limited.
I want to stop my choice of a used SLR camera on the Nikon d7000.
I immediately decided to see which lenses are on sale, also used.
Please advise which of them are suitable for this camera (how could I determine it myself?)? And which of them are suitable for portraits, and which would be suitable for photographing birds ... is there one among them that could be used to shoot landscapes?
- Vivitar 70-200 3,8 Nikon F pump-action manual lens
- Lens Tamron AF 70-300 1: 4-5,6 macro 1: 2
- Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor lens
- Nikon 55-200mm f / 4-5.6G AF-S DX VR IF-ED Zoom-Nikk
- Nikon 28-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5D full frame lens
- Nikon AF Nikkor 35-105mm 1: 3.5-4.5
Thanks in advance for any help!)
Good day. Everyone will do.
Under the landscape / wagon, look at the Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 OS, Tamron 17-50 / 2.8 VC.
There are many options for photography, any 70-300 is the best option.
But for now, I’m sure that you need to pay a lot of attention to what is happening in the world of SLR cameras, because your question does not have an unambiguous solution and requires a lot of knowledge.
Arkady, why f-2.8 for a landscape ?? ... you will still shoot at f / 6-12
High-aperture quality prof. Optics are different from those of dark zooms, which have almost half of the "glasses" inside are actually made of ... plastic. And when focusing, a camera with a zoom with standard constants of 2.8 focuses, captures more light, better exposure, and as a result the picture looks better.
Good day.
Tell me in the choice for a beginner (for a spouse) at the initial stage, between D300C and D7000.
I will take it on the secondary, the price + is the same.
As a rule, portrait shooting will be used in conjunction with Nikon 35 1,8 / G
Maybe he missed something or something is not much more expensive, but better?
I understand that everything depends on the hands, but the D3100 no longer suits her husband with the convenience and shooting options.
Thank you.
D7000 just right
joining !!
If the D3100 does not suit, then this is no longer a completely newbie) If the spouse does not shoot a report, the D7000 has enough capabilities (D300s is better autofocus, larger, heavier camera). And for a portrait, you may need a lens "more portrait" 35-ki.
I can’t say for sure what exactly doesn’t suit, I remember connected with the settings of all your exhibits in manual mode. )))
The camera would be like an initial platform for the growth of professionalism.
So that in the future, when switching to FF, there was no need to retrain or something like that.
According to portraiture, what are the possible options for price / quality?
In order not to relearn, it depends on which FF you are targeting. The 7000th series is similar in control to the D600, 610, 750. The D300 is the 800th and higher (D3, 4, 5). The most budgetary option for a crop portrait lens is fifty dollars. Then there are 85-ki, 105-ki, 135-ki and others, which will remain with you as portrait painters and at FF. There are reviews of them on this site. In general, this is a very broad topic. There is such an article: https://radojuva.com/2013/07/nikon-portrait-lens-enigma/
Hello, I took this camera just yesterday, switched to it from 5100, in complete delight, but the question is, the shutter has already snapped off 34000 frames, is this normal? It looks like the camera is in perfect condition, I couldn’t “get into anything”, everything seems to be fine with autofocus, it depends of course on the lens, I usually shoot on the Helios 81-N, but the tamron 7000-18 came with 200, therefore, while I am happy with the new lens, on a piece of paper with a ruler, the focus was excellent at all points.
Maybe someone has been using this carcass for a long time, how many frames were shot?
34.000 for this camera is nothing. Will run about 100.000 more easily.
Very reassured, thank you :)
I am writing here, of course, for the first time, but I’ve been reading your blog for quite some time and thank you so much for writing it, you cannot find so much useful information on any site!
The blog is awesome!
Good afternoon, there is the opportunity to buy a D7000 or D90 for the same price (the difference in mileage is only 10 frames). Which is still better to buy? I shoot family and individual photo sessions, weddings. Perhaps this was already a question, but I could not re-read all the comments)) Thank you!)
and the mileage ?? .. between 150000 and 160000 is also a difference of 10 ... so 000 will be better than 7000!
Addition: I use Sigma 17-50 lenses and Nikon 50mm 1.8g
The answer seems to be here:
The article “Choosing an amateur Nikon camera and lens for it” https://radojuva.com/2013/01/what-camera-nikon-shoud-i-buy/
D90- October 2008
D7000- November 2010
Is it true, as many people write, that it is good only in RAW format, but in jpeg format it gives a completely bad skin tone and in general that it is not suitable for portrait photography? So in its review, I saw only a photo of nature, a photo of people, unfortunately, no ...
it is believed that bad skinton in principle. it doesn't matter jpeg or RAW
Considered by whom? People who have not seen him, even on a store shelf?
I think there is no skin tone in RAW itself, and this is its advantage. It (a specific skin tone) will appear in a visible form only during development, which depends on the settings and the program - the camera itself (if we photograph immediately in JPEG) or the computer, if we photograph in RAW and process ...
It's just that what came out of the camera, then it is much more difficult to change, and sometimes even impossible ... So the weight is the answer - a decision of your choice. It's like trying to jump high - to achieve the result, you are given one attempt (if we photograph at once in JPEG) or several attempts if we get RAW from the camera. Something like this…
If you talk like that, then there is no difference between the skinton Nikon and Canon. but it is not
I did not talk about cameras from different manufacturers, which would actually introduce several additional factors into the game - other matrix, glasses and software algorithms. What can really change (have an impact on) the "skin tone". And here - one camera, the same frame, only a different place and processing time - in the camera when shooting or after at home on a computer. Where am I wrong?
Marina, skinton is a myth. Do not bother.))
Nah, matter, for it is perceived by sensations. Examples of CCD matrix and with 5100: https://ibb.co/hCRX9T и https://ibb.co/cwy9Oo .
Valery, a little remark. Pictures were given to show the difference in the skinton. And you do not notice the difference in color of snow on them? You can’t measure anything here, and it can be seen that the snow on the D5100 has a bluish tint, while on the D200 it is almost neutral. Where in the picture with the presence of a parasitic hue will a nice skinton come from?
Ok, I drove a pipette onto the snow, the temperature changed, it was cloudy, it was sunny, the CCD color didn’t appear, https://ibb.co/hRsboo. By the way, the picture with the d200 has a cool background. We have already spoken, I showed that ssd is lying, greens lead to emerald, but skinton gives interesting, usually beautiful.
I do not mind the beauty of CCD, please enjoy this health. I’m just saying that in a picture with a white balance significantly reduced to one or another hue, skinton is unlikely to be pleasant. It is not worth doing the white balance adjustment in the snow (a too light object, and the same applies to very dark objects). This is done a little differently. And so, by dropping a pipette into the snow, instead of one extreme, you got the other. All cameras differ in colors, and transmit colors a little differently, and users evaluate the result differently. But to sin on the ugly CMOS skinton with inaccuracies in the BB, exposure or other parameters is not entirely correct.
It's just that "skin tone" is an integral part of the color scheme of the entire frame, as Valentine has already noted. For a beautiful skin tone, certain conditions are needed, and it can change dramatically with the same camera and even with the same model.
By tradition, most studio photographers shoot on Kenon. That's all around and it seems that Kenon is better. Give them Nikon or something, they’ll take off just as well.
Peter, why do studio photographers prefer Canon?
Patamushta by tradition - it is said ...
Dmitry, do you have statistics for different countries / cities? How many studio photographers did you interview? Is there any evidence of your claim?
How many of your friends use Canon? Maybe you are based on your environment and your data sample is not representative?
I apologize for many questions. But without real facts, your statements are no more than harmful noise with negative benefits for society.
Canon is currently the market leader (especially in the CIS countries), for various reasons. While you can expect their cameras to be a little more common than others. But does this prove anything?
Many people buy the camera as a friend / mentor / or at a discount. They are overgrown with lenses and do not think about the transition. Thus, the number of purchases is clearly a financial success, but it does not guarantee superiority in quality.
I doubt that now it makes sense to say that brand A is better or worse than brand B, trying to rely on the number of uses.
With the release of the D850, Kenon is unlikely to be considered by anyone as a full-fledged player in the photo market (except perhaps the most fans of the brand itself)
Seriously?
Tell me. I'm a newbie, I want to buy the first DSLR camera. I fell for Nikon d7000 b Canon 60d. Which is better to choose? What kind of lens can I buy at once and a universal portrait for traveling?
For a beginner, it makes no difference. Take Nikon D7000 + 18-140 or 18-105, or 60D + 18-135 IS STM you will not lose.
I ran my Nikosha ~ 35k to failure. At any value of the aperture set from the carcass, he completely closed the hole and displayed the magic inscription err. After some deliberation, I came to the conclusion that the diaphragm drive was malfunctioning. The service asked for repairs and spare parts an amount comparable to buying a camera on the secondary. I decided to take a chance and ordered a spare part for Ali http://ali.pub/2ox75l
Yes, the camera turned out to be rather dreary in parsing! But nothing, managed. Tea, it’s not the first time to cope with sick electronics. )))
This site really helped with disassembly:
https://ru.ifixit.com/Device/Nikon_D7000
Maybe some of the users will also need it.
73 de RA4ADF
Your nickname is not a radio call sign, by chance)?
Not by chance. And there is. Call sign. :)
Many fellow amateur radio enthusiasts are interested in photography.
Anyone who has problems with skin tones and supposedly crooked color on the XNUMXth
Hence https://abrezd.livejournal.com/12215.html download the Faces preset and upload it to the camera via an SD card. And shoot ... completely in automatic mode)))) No kidding. It's that simple
For many years I’ve been shooting for my favorite D7000, I swore for a long time on carrot skin tones and a supersaturated magenta. And the casket just opened. With such a shooting algorithm, the intracameral jpeg is almost perfect: there is not enough contrast (if compared with the result after post-processing) and there may be sharpness. It is difficult to achieve a better NATURAL result with LightRoom: the camera corrects the optical distortions of lenses much BETTER, sets the automatic BB better, produces colors better by an order of magnitude better than LightRoom (almost never used other editors)
On commercial reports, he printed photos on a photo printer directly from the camera SD-shki - customers are delighted!
All good
Color distortion in the D7000 is not systematic, that is, manifested always and in all conditions. On the contrary, problems arise under certain conditions and they manifest themselves in different ways. The miracle profile, which will correct everything itself in all cases, simply does not exist.
Well, as you see from the previous post, it turns out that it still exists ..
People, please share your experience. Who and how to cope with the rubber band on the handle, which is under the external power supply? Protrudes periodically. Can you stick it on?
Good day! We need advice from wise people. The situation is as follows: 6 years ago I bought the D3000, I really wanted to take pictures. She shot for 4 years, not professionally, so to speak, "for the soul." Over time, it became somehow cramped in its functionality, they stopped liking pictures purely technically (maybe something happened to the camera, I don't know). I decided to try to move to a higher level and took D200. Now I have it and I really like everything about it. But there is a small drawback that is very annoying and pushes you to find the best option - very low working ISOs. Already at around 600 there is a noticeable noise. I have been thinking about D7000 for a long time, but I don't know whether to change d200 to d7000.
In general, the question is: is it worth taking the D7000 in this case, or is it better to save up and already purchase the D600 / D700? (without hesitation I would take the D700, but the price bites for me).
The D7000 will be better, but still the d600 / 610 will be much better.
Thanks! We will work in this direction
Good afternoon, advise with the choice of -D7000 or D5300? I consider both used options with the same low mileage and a native kit lens 18-55mm
I am selling my 7000 kit full set for 26t.r ... only the shipment ... .. mileage = 15000
I will take 750 or 610
On Avito, prices for good d7000 with low mileage start at 20 thousand rubles. For 26 to buy d7000 - nonsense.
For 30 thousand d7100 begin.
From the Canon camera line, which one can be placed next to the Nicon D7000?
60D / 70D
Thank you.
Good afternoon, advise with the choice of -D7000 or D5300? I consider both used options with the same low mileage and a native kit lens 18-55mm
Depends for what exactly you take. If further development is not expected and the camera is taken for shooting family holidays and for vacations, then any of the above will suffice.
If you need something with an eye to the future, I would recommend comparing and focusing on the d5300 or d7100. On these two cameras, the matrix is better on DD than d7000. For perspective, it is better to see the used d7100.
Please advise whether it is worth changing Nikon D3100 to D7000 now? I look that on the secondary they are given quite cheaply, with not very high mileage. I shoot mostly landscapes and the city, sometimes aviation.
Add 5 thousand and buy D7100. 7000 is already outdated, they are getting cheaper quickly.
Good afternoon, I am the same person who consciously switched from D90 to D7000, having overpaid 2000r for such a transition!
The D90 was with 40+ mileage, the D7000 took from the hands of the person who bought it, clicked and put it a couple of times. Namely, only 11 thousand
I understand that I was lucky, people did not need it and the price did not play a special role, and his condition is real as new, but I would advise in any case to switch from D90 to D7000.
Personally, I noticed a couple of significant differences for me:
Ability to fine tune autofocus. There are 3 lenses, with one everything is ok, the second has a weak but annoying back focus, the third has a noticeable front focus. I used 90 with the D2, I use everything with the D7000 and brought everything to the ideal too;
ISO workers. Well, in terms of shooting and sensations, it is really an order of magnitude higher than that of the D90;
I may have had problems with my past carcass, but this one focuses faster.
And other small things are full!
I also looked at the “younger” models, but the price for them is + 10k now, which is pretty decent, considering that the average price for the D7000 is 20 thousand.
For personal use, the best option!
Hello everyone, know how not to twist the soap frames. The device is new, but very often it gives not real shots.
Good afternoon (evening-night). 😅
D7000 in use for a long time, and in principle it suits. But
Recently I began to notice, especially after buying Tokina 11-16 f2.8 DX II (or it seems to me like a bespectacled man😭) that I had a malfunction in autofocus.
I decided to check on the tables, but ran into a lack of information, namely:
Many articles prescribe that tables should be positioned at an angle of 45 ° or perpendicular to the plane of the focusing part of the target (depending on the type of table), but I did not find information on how far from the lens to the table.
So the question is
How to calculate the minimum distance from the slice of the lens to the table?
In use I have:
Tokina 11-16 f2.8 (IF) DX II
Nikor AF-S 35mm 1.8g
Nikor AF-S 18-200 GII ED
I will be very grateful for a practical answer😢
Sc from me more than 1,5 km
usually tested at 1 meter from the table, why, I don’t know.
Well, the telephoto is at 1m., But the fix is 35mm per meter?