For the opportunity Nikon D7000 Review many thanks to Igor
Review of the Nikon D7000 body. Near Vega-11U.
Nikon D7000 is a very unusual digital SLR camera. On the one hand, it has some indicators better than professional cameras Nikon D300, D300s, on the other hand: Nikon D7000 does not reach the professional level. Historically, the Nikon D7000 is difficult to attribute to one of two categories, therefore, I will dwell on this in more detail.
Signs of a Nikon D7000 indicating a professional level:
- Compatible with old manual (non-studded) lenses AI-S. The camera works perfectly with any manual lens, even with non-native AI compatible.
- The presence of two slots for memory cards
- Save option 14-bit RAW File
- Dustproof and waterproof
- 100% frame coverage in the viewfinder, a clean viewfinder
- The presence of over short excerptsequal to 1 / 8000s.
Signs indicating that the Nikon D7000 refers to amateur (amateur cameras)
- At the camera part of the body is made of plastic. The case is not all made of metal alloy, as in older models D200, D300, D300s.
- The camera does not support quick cards CF
- Frame buffer total 9 (maybe 10) RAW shots
- The burst speed is fixed and does not expand with the booster
- Well, of course, the presence of automatic modes of use, as in a number of models Nikon D80, D90.
- Camera does not allow saving uncompressed RAW file
I stand in solidarity with Nikon, which classifies the Nikon D7000 as an amateur camera. It so happened that the line of professional cameras is Nikon D100, D200, D300, D300s, D500. In turn, the range of cameras Nikon D70, D70s, D80, D90 has been improved and supplemented by Nikon D7000 cameras, D7100, D7200, D7500. You can see for yourself composed by me Nikon camera geneology chart. Therefore, the Nikon D7000 is simply an improved level of advanced amateur cameras, but not a professional line.
Review of the Nikon D7000 body. Redesigned shooting mode selector.
The most important thing in the Nikon D7000 for the photographer:
1. CMOS sensor in 16.2 megapixels DX format with crop factor 1.5x. The same matrix is in Nikon D5100. The same number of megapixels in the flagship Nikon D4. The number of megapixels is not so importantbut the working range of ISO is 100-6400 and expands to 25.600. Believe the range ISO 100-25.600 - this is already serious. Moreover, we can say that at ISO 3200 you can very often get a satisfactory result. Funny, but Nikon released an amateur Nikon D3200which has as much as 24MP. True, the quality of pictures at high ISOs is much worse than full-frame cameras, such as D700, D3 etc.
Very similar to the fact that Nikon D7000 uses a matrix that Sony produces, the same matrix is available in cameras
- Nikon D5100
- Pentax K-30
- Pentax K-5
- Pentax K-01
- Sony a580
- Sony A55
- Sony NEX-5N
Photo on Nikon D7000
2. Burst speed 6 fps. It is worth noting that the D7000 did realize fast shooting with 14 bit RAW without losing the shooting speed. D300(s) loses shooting speed at 14 bit RAW, in fact D300(s) speed with 14 bit RAW is poor 2.5 fps. 6 fps for the Nikon D7000 is very good. I do not recommend chasing a rapid-fire camera, very often the rate of fire is not important at all. For example, in a studio, flashes are sometimes recharged within one second, and few people shoot faster than 2 fps. For home and leisurely photography I have enough Nikon D40 and 2.5 fps. But high shooting speed is important for reporting, unfortunately high speed requires a good buffer size. The buffer is where pictures are stored in the camera before being written to the memory card. An analogy can be drawn that the buffer is the camera's RAM, and the card is its hard drive. The Nikon D7000 has a small buffer, see below.
Review of the Nikon D7000 body. Rear view camera. The main panel of buttons.
3. The number of frames in the buffer depends on the image recording format. What interests me most is the buffer when shooting in RAW format, and for maximum 14bit RAW quality with lossless compressionhe makes up 9 frames. With a shooting speed of 6 fps, the camera starts to slow down after the second second of shooting. You immediately understand that the D7000 is far from a professional camera. Here are other buffer metrics:
- JPEG maximum quality, quality priority with disabled ADL, Noise reduction, High ISO Noise reduction, etc. - 15 frames.
- JPEG maximum quality, quality priority with ADL, Noise reduction, High ISO Noise reduction, etc. - 11 frames.
- RAW 12bit lossless compression - 9 frames, the file weighs about 12MB
- RAW 12bit normal compression - 9 frames, the file weighs about 11MB
- RAW 14bit lossless compression (the absolute maximum quality for Nikon D7000) - 9 frames, the file weighs about 20MB
- RAW 14bit normal compression - 9 frames, the file weighs about 15MB
Frame buffer is one of the most important indicators of camera speed... Even my old lady Nikon D200 squeezes 21 frames of continuous shooting and gives as much as 4 seconds of shooting without brakes in a series of 5 fps. The camera buffer of the Nikon D7000 in RAW mode greatly disappointed, I don’t know what those who say about the professionalism of Nikon D7000 think.
Photo on Nikon D7000
4. Nikon D7000 has convenient help with tips, different shooting modes like “night portrait” or “sports”. The camera has a convenient photo editing system. For those who are too lazy to mess around with editing programs on a computer, the Nikon D7000 has an excellent image editor built in. Also, in addition to JPEG processing, the Nikon D7000 camera supports RAW processing.
Black shutter button on the D7000. View of the shutter button and monochrome display.
5. The display of the camera is excellent, with 920.000 pixels. The display is very large and bright. Viewing images on the display is a pleasure. The same display is on Nikon D90, D300, D300s, D700, D3 etc.
Photo on Nikon D7000 Neutral Picture Control
6. The ergonomics of the camera is excellent. The additional display helps a lot. It is very convenient to configure the basic parameters for an external monochrome display. The external monochrome display has a backlight. U1, U2 modes allow you to save all the necessary settings and quickly switch between the settings of the camera U1 and U2.
Example photo on Nikon D7000
7. Nikon D7000 supports AF lenses without built-in focus motor. For example, Nikon D7000 will work fine without motor cheap and high quality lenses. Nikon 50mm F1.8D, Nikon 85mm F1.8D, Nikon 70-210mm F4.0AF etc. And also, Nikon D7000 gives the chance to work with AI, AI-S and any other old lenses. For example, the camera can easily make friends with manual lenses Nikon 50mm f / 1.2 AI-s Nikkor, Helios-81H, and Nikon 100mm F / 2.8 Series E etc .. If you specify the parameters of the manual lens in the camera menu, then matrix metering will be available exposure... The camera can store 9 'non-CPU' lenses (the same number in the more serious D300s / D3s / D3X). Only the following DX cameras could work with old lenses: Nikon D200, D300, D300s. Nikon D7000 uses a unique focus module Multi-CAM 4800DX with 39 sensors (9 cruciform)which is the same as a full-frame camera Nikon D600... 39 focus points are enough for any kind of photography. Focusing accuracy and speed are highly dependent on the lens rather than the focusing system. And the camera has a new one 2016 pixel RGB sensor measuring exposure.
Nikon D7000 - Back View
9. Viewfinder 100%. This means the following: what you see in the viewfinder when you zoom in is fully consistent with what will be in the photo. Typically, coverage is 95% of the frame. For example, Nikon D90 also 95% and often at the edges of the photo extra details appear, since they are not visible in the viewfinder. A trifle, but very nice.
Example photo on Nikon D7000
10. The camera can shoot video with a maximum quality of Full HD 1,920 X 1,080 (24p), while using a mono microphone (for stereo sound, you should buy a separate stereo microphone). The camera has automatic focus when shooting video, which they could not Nikon D90, D5000. The video is of sufficient quality (according to the reviews of my colleagues, I myself am not strong in video analysis). The maximum length of a video is 20 minutes. Of course, the camera has a Live View mode. In this mode, focusing is performed in contrast and is much slower in speed than normal focusing using the optical viewfinder and phase sensors. The Live View button is combined with the video recording button. In focus mode AF-C and with Live View turned on, the camera automatically monitors focus, even if the shutter button is not pressed.
Sample photo on Nikon D 7000
11. The flash can work in command mode on system Nikon CLS. When using external flash units SB-600, SB-700, SB-800, SB-900, SB-910 (or from third-party manufacturers) quick synchronization with shutter speeds up to 1/8000 is possible, this is very important when photographing with flash at slow shutter speeds.
Photo on Nikon D7000
12. A bunch of pleasant things: the shutter withstands at least 150.000 operations, the camera has a gyroscope, the ability to shoot at intervals, alignment (adjustment) of precise focusing and many others.
Two memory card slots on the D7000
Personal impressions:
The camera is very good. The camera menu is very large, it is not so easy to figure it out. In the review, I touched only on vital points for the photographer, if you need to find some trifle in the settings, then the instructions will help.
In many ways, the Nikon D7000 is one of the best DX-format cameras. When they ask me which advanced camera I recommend, then Nikon D7000 is the best option.if the issue price does not play a role. In my hands, in my opinion, the camera looks more like Nikon D90than on Nikon D300s. Image quality: at a high level, however, you can only talk about matrix noise, color reproduction, etc., since the image itself forms the lens and at low distinguish one camera from another. Some of my colleagues video operators shoot video on the Nikon D7000, and it is for the sake of video that they take this camera. Also, very often the Nikon D7000 is very popular as a second camera with professional photographers.
Example photo on Nikon D7000
Comparison with other, similar in functionality, cameras from Nikon
Nikon D90 VS Nikon D7000
The Nikon D7000 has a step higher ISO, and two steps higher maximum (extended) ISO. 4MP added. The viewfinder covers 100%. Support for manual lenses has been added, autofocus has appeared when shooting video, video quality has reached Full HD, and the shooting speed has increased by 1.5 fps. Another slot for memory cards has been added; the Nikon D7000 can use more capacious ones SD XC cards. The number of focus points has increased, exposure metering has improved, and a virtual horizon has been added. All in all, D7000 all better for the Nikon D90. Ergonomics and overall functionality are very similar. I do not recommend changing Nikon D90 to D7000.
Nikon D7000 VS Nikon D300, D300s
The D7000 beats the D300s at 6 fps in 14-bit RAW mode versus 2.5 fps in 14-bit RAW mode on the D300s. Also, the D7000 has 1 stop higher ISO sensitivity, better video with autofocus. But the D300s has a more robust body, more focus points (51 versus 39), support CF memory cards, higher burst speed, larger buffer and professional ergonomics. Nikon D300 performance is better for Nikon D7000. I do not recommend changing D300, D300s to Nikon D7000, and vice versa, D7000 to D300s.
Nikon D7000 has a younger brother, the continuation of the line - Nikon D7100.
Sample photo on Nikon D7000
In general, a review about Nikon D7000 can be written endlessly, the camera is simply full of different functions and settings. There are few photos in this review, since while I was testing and delving into the settings, the battery ran out and the charging was not given to me. Please note that the quality of photos depends very much on the lens and other important things when shooting.
Sample photo on Nikon D7000
The parameters shown in the photo gallery:
All shot with Nikon D7000. On-camera JPEG L. Everything was shot in NL picture control mode: contrast correction - 0, brightness - 0, saturation - 0, hue - 0, sharpness - position 9 between 0 and 9. Used white balance: 'Auto', 'Shadow' and 'Cloudy'. The size of the photos was reduced to 3 MP. All shot using a lens Nikon Nikkor AF-S 35mm 1: 1.8G DX.
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
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Conclusions:
Nikon D7000 is a great advanced amateur camera. Many indicators excel in the quality of the camera of a professional line. Nikon D7000 will be useful for both amateur and professional. I recommend.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
And above in this thread it is said about some kind of gray card, what is it.
This is, roughly speaking, a piece of plastic that has a uniform fill (coloring) of 18% black, without any shade, and it should remain neutral gray in any light. Needed to set the correct white balance. A good card is relatively expensive.
For example, if you print something like this on an inkjet printer, then it will work poorly: firstly, the paper has its own shade, secondly, even black ink has a shade (cyan, or magenta usually), and the printer will add gray when printing color ink.
Manufacturers of photographic goods for the most part even make the insides of photo bags and backpacks neutral gray ... There is a cheap analogue of a gray card - a gray microfiber cloth from lenspen. The size is about A4, and 18% gray ... And it costs a penny.
Goodnight! After reading the entire line, I would like to ask a few questions. 1. Is there a Nikon D7000 optical low-pass filter? 2. At the moment I have a D3000. I want to temporarily switch to D7000. Is Nikon D2015 outdated for the summer of 7000? I plan to shoot photo shoots, portraits, people, family. 3. What is the best fix for the D7000? 4. And what advise objective for shooting growth figures, groups of people? The budget is moderately limited. Thanks a lot!!
Take already 7100, the price has already fallen, and the camera is not outdated yet and there is no low-pass filter on it.
On the D7000 I use a lens for "tall figures" Nikkor 18-105, the 50 mm fix on the D7000 is extremely inconvenient for the "tall" ones, perhaps (although I haven't tried it personally) the 35 fix will do. Very, very good (almost ideal) for a portrait on the D7000 Nikkor 85 f / 1,4 G - sharp from 1,4 aperture, this is one of the best portrait lenses, including crop; as an opposite to it fifty dollars - do not use it for a portrait, especially close-up - noticeably distorts. It should be borne in mind that the D7000 is not loyal to skin tones, you will have to conjure over portraits in a RAW converter, and very much (D7000 is a landscape camera in the first place). And also keep in mind - the focusing system of the D7000 is very "capricious", but having tamed it you will go through a good school.
Yes, here's another, I completely forgot to add a small plus about the D7000 - the mileage on my copy is almost 100 shutter actuations, while there are no hints of peeling or swelling rubber bands)) Externally, the body is on a solid 000-ku - workmanship and inscriptions on the buttons 5% of the ideal. I shoot with a camera from scratch. The camera went through the winter shooting in snow and frost, summer in the bright sun on the sea coasts, in the rain, etc.
Denis, tell me which Lens. For a photo of bird hunting, it’s better to pick in a reasonable price range when 18-105 is not enough.
At least - 70-300vr - good picture quality, moderately fast AF
I think that you are talking about a fully-staffed one that will give 105-450 on the crop, will it not be very dark at full fox distance and will there be enough aperture that can raise it above 600-800.
Yeah, the one that Af-s 70-300 1: 4.5-5.6G SWM VR ED IF
I have enough for shooting on the street for any tasks.
Yes, and on the d7000, you can safely raise iso to 1600
70-300VR
Can save up to 28-300vr or budget 70-300 bp
I do not advise.
if you want a budget - take a tair 300mm.
Lynx, I didn’t understand that you do not advise
These are Ukrainian hryvnias, although it would have been good for 15 rubles.
what does your 70-300 vr mean
By budget I meant 70-300 vr for 10t and 28-300 comes from 18
Our 70-300 vr means Nikon 70-300mm f 4.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor
....
although where did you find the Nikon 70-300mm f 4.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor for 10 thousand rubles, I would like to see. Even on Avito they are at least a tag.
Denis, you are a sadist ... A person has a limited budget, and you offer him Nikkor 85 f / 1,4 G ... It's good that Hasel was not offered instead of 7000 ... Although of course it's stupid to argue that this lens is good, but the price is cosmic ...
There was a question which fix would be better suited for the D7000?)) From personal practice, I advise Stanislav Nikkor 85 f / 1,4 G on the D7000 - once trying to shoot with this bundle, you will immediately understand what I am talking about)) Especially if you have practice shooting with other bundles camera + lens and, accordingly, there is something to compare. There is also a native earlier D-version of the 85 (also f / 1,4) - I personally have no experience with this lens, but I also suspect the excellent performance of this fix. I don't want a colleague to go through a long journey of trial and error, buying one glass, then selling it for a third of the price, then buying another again, etc. Take right away, once, what is win-win and save money and time !!! And in addition you will enjoy the shooting and the results ... Good luck !!!
Can you tell me what taming autofocus is? My “Mustang” has already tortured me - a non-soap shot is more an exception than a rule, even at short exposures. With flash, sharpness is better. By fine-tuning the autofocus, I reduced the soapiness to a minimum, but still often when shooting portraits, the eyelashes in the picture cannot be distinguished.
1. no
2. deprecated
3. any
4 / 35g.
1.the filter is worth it. 2. Now the technique is updating the line so quickly that you can't keep up with the new products ... Therefore, the question is not correctly posed ... Personally, for a person who shoots with d3000, it will be a good replacement. 3. Take af-s 35 / 1,8g or af-s 50 / 1,8g, and if finances allow, then f1,4. 4. The aforementioned lenses will do for this, don't worry.
About fix. I shoot on nikkor 35 / 1.8 A very convenient universal lens. But the chromatic aberration of this lens is sometimes annoying. I shoot portraits on Nikkor 50 / 1.8. Personally, I am more than happy with the price-quality ratio of these lenses.
Hello everyone. I am a beginner photographer. Outwardly I fell in love with the D7000, I only want it. Tell me, are you experienced what kind of lens to take for it for all (for the first time) occasions of life. For some reason, whale 18-105 is not praised.
you need to learn just on the "whale" in order to determine the future. something like this ... I started with 18-55 ... and I praise him. glass got over time, with the consciousness of what I want.
I do not agree, I studied on good glasses, I took 18-55 only because of the relatively wide angle and cheapness. So, I get good photos at 18-55 only skillfully, with the understanding that, out of experience, I would most likely be disappointed and would not continue training.
Good afternoon, so what do you recommend anyway? Lynx advises 35 / 1,8. I am really a beginner. A month later, I gathered in Abkhazia, I would like to capture everything.
How I agree with you. In most cases, there is no need to ride a Cossack in the heat to understand the need for an air conditioner and a liquid-cooled engine. One trouble: changing from A8 to Mondeo is very dreary.
Nikon 35 / 1,8G
Whale 18-105 is not praised by those who did not use it
Well, why, I don’t praise although I used it, the usual dark zoom, moderately sharp, is nothing outstanding. I don’t know 16-85, I didn’t, but at a price twice as expensive as 18-140, which costs almost the same as 18-105 (new), but in my opinion it is noticeably more interesting, especially when traveling. Metal mount, dustproof rubber band, 140mm versus 105, sharpness is good, and only 70 grams heavier than 18-105.
But! 35mm 1,8G then it still doesn’t hurt.
Please tell me, on NIKON D 7000 is not very expensive but a good flash?)
And also, who knows where you can get adapters from Sony lenses to Nikon?))
I will be very grateful)
Flash selection here https://radojuva.com.ua/2013/02/nikon-sb-flash-buy/
There are no conventional Sony A to Nikon F adapters, only with a lens that degrades quality.
Please tell me there is a sense to change the whale 18-105 to 16-85, I want to say in advance with the focal and viewing angle the replacement is not connected, but simply as a better detail, contrast, etc.
For the money that costs 16-85, it should not only be sharper and more better, but also bring beer from the refrigerator and clean the fish.
I don't know about Vladimir, but Bright, epta, he's a smart person! “Better”? Really?!
Bright is not only smart, but also an erudite person.
For example, he is aware of the "dress better" meme, which he demonstrated.
I didn’t understand either answer from both answers.
I am translating into Russian. 16-85 is not worth your money, leave 18-105 and buy something else. This is the first thing. Secondly, “better” is twice illiterate. One should write “better” and one should not use two superlatives together. Or just “better” or “nicer”.
By no means, 16-85 of your money is worth, especially if on the secondary housing more than 12-15 for example do not fight for it. It's just that he was a little different than “the newbie played enough with the whale and decided that all the problems in his life were due to the whale, and he needed a mega-aperture zoom, and a fix, and all in one bottle”.
Well, it sounded like they were asking for 300 dollars. The price would be good only in 2013. And now for the money on the secondary you can pack better
For example?
I asked a technical question and not check the grammar and not for fans to type comments, but for those who used it themselves and can give practical advice.
well, to get a clear answer, you need to at least write a clear, formulated question.
And not to squabble the mess, like a fourth-grader-poor student "we have become better dressed."
You are nervous and you don't like humor. Dmitry K, “K” is not the captain obvious? Joke.
And you, Vladimir, as a lover of technical issues, it would not hurt to read the technical information of these lenses on this site. Why is the author trying to ask? For whom are reviews written and examples given, and in many cases recommendations made? For Petya Vasya’s brother?
And if you have already read all the reviews, then what other technical information do you need?
"K" is from the last name))
I looked at this dregs about rye / barley and earth ... it's interesting that some have a brain arranged
What do you have in mind?
Does it make sense to change the whale 18-105 to 16-85, that was the question. If it’s possible to buy for 300 bucks.
I wouldn’t take it. 35 1.8 and 85 1.8 of the fixes to your 18-105 and that's enough. Then only macaroons / over-width if necessary or full frame.
It depends on how much you can sell 18-105. If, for example, dollars for 150, then the difference will be only 150 bucks and then, probably, it makes sense. 16-85 is a good lens, with excellent autofocus and stub, plus a wide angle is very useful. Another thing is that he is dark like a whale. This is not a problem for someone, but a problem for someone. If you shoot with puff and don't chase the narrow DOF, then 16-85 is a great thing. But personally, when I remember that you can take a 17-50 2.8os sigma for its price, I somehow cool down to it. In sigma, of course, the focal lengths are smaller, but there is also an excellent stub and, unlike 16-85, the aperture ratio. Moreover, the sigma 17-50 2.8os is sharp with an open one. It is slightly sharper than tamron 17-50 2.8 without stub and noticeably sharper than tamron with stub. Here, by the way, is another inexpensive option - Tamron 17-50 2.8. Stab is not always needed and, for dynamics, in fact, Tamron 17-50 2.8 is no worse than sigma 17-50 2.8os (except that the motor is noisy and constructive for a C grade). But tamron is much cheaper than sigma.
As for the 18-105vr, this is a very sharp lens. There should be no problems with it, especially on a relatively small-pixel d7000 by today's standards. For example, I don't have such problems in this bundle. Perhaps it's a stub? Try to click without it, suddenly the sharpness will improve. Well, yes, if all else fails, go to the service. In theory, adjustment for a new warranty lens should be free of charge.
No, the problem is not in the stub, I tried without it. I adjusted the fine-tuning in the camera to -8, it became better, but anyway grayness is somehow lacking. Details. D7000 + 18-105 I just bought a new one just a couple of months from the office. They offer a guarantee to take it to the service, but this is for 1,5 months and I don’t know what to do, either send the lens itself or the entire kit. I have another 70-300vr so everything is in order there, there is neither a back nor a focus front. I think maybe a friend should try the lenses again, he’ll say it’s all good, and if my camera works perfectly with his lenses, I’ll send the lens itself. What do you think will be right?
Great idea. If it is possible to check this glass on another camera and your camera with other glasses, it will be clear where the problem is. But if 70-300 works without problems, and he already has depth of field, then in theory 18-105 should work at least well on this carcass. So all the same, most likely the case is in the glass. Because I have no questions about the d7000 + 18-105vr link - everything is pretty sharp and pretty, as far as possible on d7000. By the way, as for dullness, maybe camera settings will help? Twist the picchekontrol, there you can change the picture very much. And increase the detail by increasing the sharpness index. But again, if everything is in order with 70-300, then it is strange that 18-105 gives grayness and soap ... By the way, it works quite well even at 24 megapixels, so it should work without problems on the d7000.
Where is such a service that already after 1,5 months. there will be a result ???
U.A.
Run from 1,5 month services ... I sent a camera here to correct the focus:
Moscow
105120, Moscow, 2nd Syromyatnichesky Lane d. 1
Business Center "Delta Plaza", 1st floor (reception and delivery of equipment for repair according to an identification document)
Hours of operation:
Monday-Friday, from 10.00 a.m. to 19.00 p.m. (no lunch break)
Saturday, from 10.00 a.m. to 17.00 p.m. (no lunch break)
Contact Information:
Phone +7 (495) 662-39-67.
They did it quickly during the day, and now the focus is flawless) Pah, pah))
Leave all D7000 color settings as default, from 18-105 this camera has an excellent sharp picture.
UA means Ukraine and in us the service in Kiev is one official and therefore from 1,5 weeks to 1,5 months. Today, I still waved with a fine tuning of autofocus and eventually reached -5. This is no longer in the line, but in the small details in the figure which you can hardly see by eye without enlargement, it seems to be a little better, but when I put 70-300 which also adjusted to +3 for better sharpness, it’s 75 mm much better than 18-105.
I use, and very successfully, this way of adjusting focus on cameras - https://nikoneurope-ru.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/52161... Each lens has its own specific focus adjustment value and the camera remembers this. Do not touch the default value, let it be “at zero”, but change the saved value (in the camera menu). And the 18-105 is sharper by default than the 70-300.
There is still 70-300 vr to replace it, I don’t even ask, everything is fine there. And 18-105 unclear did fine-tuning in the autofocus camera didn’t help much but all the same soap at least a month after bought. . True service in our city is not due to what and
the problem that I wanted to solve.
In exchange for D7000 all objects require AF correction. However, it is necessary for everyone to use “-12”! So the problem is not in the software, but in the cameras! Ale is not a problem for the D7000.
18-105 will not give such sharpness as 70-300, of course, but I would not call it “soapy”. Perhaps the problem is with your instance.
Recently I took the D7100, and 18-105 fully resolves it with 24 MP.
Corners and edges become sharp with f / 5 at a wide angle and about f / 6.3-7.1 at a long angle.
Good day to all! Finally, it matured to d7000, and it was removed from sale, but in all online stores in bulk, it’s kind of dumb to take it now, it turns out all grayish and the quality is dubious, and if suddenly, vkisalovo for repair, no warranty, so what should I do now? can someone tell me, tell me?
Photo equipment has risen in price very much. For example, I wanted to take a new camera, I thought d7100 or d610, but at such prices it makes no sense, I like my d3100 again. Many people think so. Therefore, a lot of unsold goods have accumulated in stores. With a guarantee, everything will most likely be fine. To be sure, buy from an off-site dealer. Judging by the reviews, the D7000 would not recommend Nikon's model. In general, Nikon has recently had a lot of "raw" models. D7100 looks good against the general background.
Nikon D7000 is not the most successful model! Are you seriously?
I didn’t have 7000, but I took it from a friend to shoot. At that time, I myself had 3100, so for me it's like moving from Daewoo Matiz to Daewoo Nubira. The ergonomics and functionality of this camera is absolutely enough for an enthusiast. With some reservations, it is suitable for professional use. The main thing now that this camera will lose 7100, 7200 so it is an older matrix, in noise and detail, but you must understand that to implement this very detail you need high-quality optics and not the oldest computer for processing 24 megapixels. What is noteworthy from the line D70-D70s-D80-D90-D7000-D7100-D7200 7000 produced the longest. I do not think that this indicates her failure.
You can’t argue with the price account, but you can consider buying a used one. D7000 For example, I have half of the photo equipment used. and so far so good.
you don't confuse the term “not entirely successful” with “sucks.
Again, a person who has switched from a shahi to a family Audi is probably mischievous, but the dude from the X5 probably won't understand him. )
The issue of "transfer" is generally very difficult;) When switching from D3100 to D300, there was a lot of positive emotions. When moving from D300 to 6D also sea, but mixed! I was especially pleased with the autofocus, but I knew what I was going for. And the transition from D3200 to D7000, as for me, is very cool (if the matrix suits the working ISO).
Well, the transition can be quite cool - new opportunities, cool body, new lenses and cool flashes. It's just that d7000 and d90 in this series, as already mentioned, are not the most successful models. The ninety lost their "work with manual glasses", and the seven-thousander, having acquired this and a very good focuser, often requires dancing with a tambourine over flowers or misses in exposure.
Good day. So what would be better in return for the d90, d300 or d7000 and in brief why. Thanks .
In general, d7000 will be better - it is newer. The d300 has an older matrix than the d90 (details here).
d7100.
.....
but if you need "indestructible and inexpensive" based on the work with flashes indoors - then d300.
Thank you.
it was 3200 with its 24 megapixels it’s hard for me, but at 7100 they are again
Why 24MP didn't please you? You can always interpolate downward: during "development", if you shoot RAW, or in the settings of the device, if Jpeg.
D7100 is a very worthy device.
basic file sizes are hard to store .. and not all glass will allow it.
I will not say 100%, maybe my hands are hooks, but it’s hard to achieve good sharpness, the tripod fixes the situation, but it’s not always convenient, or rather, it’s always inconvenient with it, by the way there is an article about pixel or gigapixel fighting, some statements agree
In July I bought a D7100, in August I went with him to Lviv, most of the photo was taken at 18-105. I can’t say that the sharpness is worse than on the D5100, I would say that it’s better, despite the fact that the glass itself is not very sharp.
I didn't take a tripod with me, but you need to watch the shutter speed - it's better to raise the Iso a little, but the shutter speed is shorter (especially at the long end).
Hello everybody. I would like to note that when using SanDisk extrem memory cards, the frame buffer is respected from 11 to 15 NEF frames, depending on the recording quality and compression.
hello, maybe a little silly question, but ... ... do you see the focus points diagram in the viewfinder? exactly all points? I can't see anything, only when I focus, one point lights up red (on which I focus). this is normal?
And you move it back and forth ...
Question to Arkady: I am standing at a crossroads - D300s or D7000. The tasks are purely amateur. What do you advise.
Vladimir, for several years filmed with this and that. There is not much difference. There were both in parallel. the D7000 likes the speed (if reporting is important) and the ability to use two memory cards. The D7000 is lighter (if important). And so - what will fall into the hand :) D7000 is cheaper, which is also a plus. Both cameras worked for 300 cabres and were also sold for $ 000 each :)
Thank you.
I have had d7000 for a year now. I do not advise you to buy it. It has an absolutely good body, a bright viewfinder, many functions. A second display, a screwdriver. But it has two very large minuses. Unstable autofocus living its own life. And the color is completely de ... mo. Complete inability to convey skin tone. I got the impression that the company NIKON. Consciously He does not want to make really good cameras. They improve those technical indicators that are unknown to anyone who needs them. For me, a good camera is, STABLE tenacious aftofocus. A wonderful NATURAL color. Everything else is secondary.
color and autofocus. In the watering cans, there is no color from bw film and autofocus. Conclusion - not a camera
adjust the white balance on the gray card and your skin color will be.
Well, it’s essential, natural color and autofocus are fundamentally important, I bought a Nikon D7000 - and here it’s neither one of the other ... It’s straight.
Or maybe it's in the lens, or maybe it’s worth switching to manual settings and setting the BB correctly, or maybe your friend would be better off using a good soap box ????
Damn, they just kill such lamer comments, like: “The day before yesterday I bought Nikon D ..., with a whale lens 18-55, it seems to me that min poluchayutsa have bad photos. Advise a good lens. The cat is so playful and I can't take a picture of him ”
Nikon D7000 is a great camera for professional use. It has everything that may be required in the work and satisfy even the most capricious lover. Nevertheless, Nikon thought of lovers, creating the D7000.
In terms of size and layout of the controls, the Nikon D7000 is similar to the D90, but with very important additions.
Nikon D7000 is a great camera for professional use. It has everything that may be required in the work and satisfy even the most capricious lover. Nevertheless, Nikon thought of lovers, creating the D7000.
Yes, no doubt Nikon makes excellent cameras and excellent optics. For decades, improving something. I just never made a film. Other companies were doing this. For example, Fuji, kodak, I think for this reason the colors are not what I wanted
Knowledgeable and understanding! Your opinion is needed. They offer a subject for 22000r. - I shoot on D70S. Budget lenses: kit 18-70 (angle), 50-1,8D (drawing, aperture), 55-300 (well, of course, tele). Macro perspective. Well, everything is as usual. My level is an amateur with a great desire to progress. Does the upgrade make sense for the price? Thanks in advance for the tips.
Oh, I didn't say - the bodysuit is on sale.
Vera, such an upgrade will give you practically nothing. If you really want to improve something - sell your fifty kopeck, report the amount you have + a little more money and get yourself 85 1.8G and 35 1.8G dx, and you will be happy.
The price seems to be not bad if the device is in '4+' condition - that is, in good condition, with mileage up to 50'000.
For six years (from d70 to d7000), they have done a lot: a new matrix (very good!) = Higher resolution, higher working ISOs, a focus sensor, a larger and better main display + metering with manual optics.
That is, there will be an increase in both the certification of using the camera and the image quality, but the 'masterpiece' button is still not there.
If you lack 'megapixel' on the d70, or don't like the noise at high ISOs, or don't like the small main display, take the d7000. If there are no such problems / tasks, then why do you need it?
PS if there is a desire / opportunity - look for D7100, it is more interesting than 7000
Thank you, you correctly appreciated the desired: increase the resolution and reduce noise, and the display would not hurt to increase. I doubted that the available optics could improve the quality of the picture when updating the carcass. Thanks to all who answered.
Optics: fifty-fifty allows exactly 16MP, 55-300, in the range up to 200-250 it is also quite good (as for a budget telephoto), 18-70 did not use it.