For the opportunity Nikon D7000 Review many thanks to Igor
Review of the Nikon D7000 body. Near Vega-11U.
Nikon D7000 is a very unusual digital SLR camera. On the one hand, it has some indicators better than professional cameras Nikon D300, D300s, on the other hand: Nikon D7000 does not reach the professional level. Historically, the Nikon D7000 is difficult to attribute to one of two categories, therefore, I will dwell on this in more detail.
Signs of a Nikon D7000 indicating a professional level:
- Compatible with old manual (non-studded) lenses AI-S. The camera works perfectly with any manual lens, even with non-native AI compatible.
- The presence of two slots for memory cards
- Save option 14-bit RAW File
- Dustproof and waterproof
- 100% frame coverage in the viewfinder, a clean viewfinder
- The presence of over short excerptsequal to 1 / 8000s.
Signs indicating that the Nikon D7000 refers to amateur (amateur cameras)
- At the camera part of the body is made of plastic. The case is not all made of metal alloy, as in older models D200, D300, D300s.
- The camera does not support quick cards CF
- Frame buffer total 9 (maybe 10) RAW shots
- The burst speed is fixed and does not expand with the booster
- Well, of course, the presence of automatic modes of use, as in a number of models Nikon D80, D90.
- Camera does not allow saving uncompressed RAW file
I stand in solidarity with Nikon, which classifies the Nikon D7000 as an amateur camera. It so happened that the line of professional cameras is Nikon D100, D200, D300, D300s, D500. In turn, the range of cameras Nikon D70, D70s, D80, D90 has been improved and supplemented by Nikon D7000 cameras, D7100, D7200, D7500. You can see for yourself composed by me Nikon camera geneology chart. Therefore, the Nikon D7000 is simply an improved level of advanced amateur cameras, but not a professional line.
Review of the Nikon D7000 body. Redesigned shooting mode selector.
The most important thing in the Nikon D7000 for the photographer:
1. CMOS sensor in 16.2 megapixels DX format with crop factor 1.5x. The same matrix is in Nikon D5100. The same number of megapixels in the flagship Nikon D4. The number of megapixels is not so importantbut the working range of ISO is 100-6400 and expands to 25.600. Believe the range ISO 100-25.600 - this is already serious. Moreover, we can say that at ISO 3200 you can very often get a satisfactory result. Funny, but Nikon released an amateur Nikon D3200which has as much as 24MP. True, the quality of pictures at high ISOs is much worse than full-frame cameras, such as D700, D3 etc.
Very similar to the fact that Nikon D7000 uses a matrix that Sony produces, the same matrix is available in cameras
- Nikon D5100
- Pentax K-30
- Pentax K-5
- Pentax K-01
- Sony a580
- Sony A55
- Sony NEX-5N
Photo on Nikon D7000
2. Burst speed 6 fps. It is worth noting that the D7000 did realize fast shooting with 14 bit RAW without losing the shooting speed. D300(s) loses shooting speed at 14 bit RAW, in fact D300(s) speed with 14 bit RAW is poor 2.5 fps. 6 fps for the Nikon D7000 is very good. I do not recommend chasing a rapid-fire camera, very often the rate of fire is not important at all. For example, in a studio, flashes are sometimes recharged within one second, and few people shoot faster than 2 fps. For home and leisurely photography I have enough Nikon D40 and 2.5 fps. But high shooting speed is important for reporting, unfortunately high speed requires a good buffer size. The buffer is where pictures are stored in the camera before being written to the memory card. An analogy can be drawn that the buffer is the camera's RAM, and the card is its hard drive. The Nikon D7000 has a small buffer, see below.
Review of the Nikon D7000 body. Rear view camera. The main panel of buttons.
3. The number of frames in the buffer depends on the image recording format. What interests me most is the buffer when shooting in RAW format, and for maximum 14bit RAW quality with lossless compressionhe makes up 9 frames. With a shooting speed of 6 fps, the camera starts to slow down after the second second of shooting. You immediately understand that the D7000 is far from a professional camera. Here are other buffer metrics:
- JPEG maximum quality, quality priority with disabled ADL, Noise reduction, High ISO Noise reduction, etc. - 15 frames.
- JPEG maximum quality, quality priority with ADL, Noise reduction, High ISO Noise reduction, etc. - 11 frames.
- RAW 12bit lossless compression - 9 frames, the file weighs about 12MB
- RAW 12bit normal compression - 9 frames, the file weighs about 11MB
- RAW 14bit lossless compression (the absolute maximum quality for Nikon D7000) - 9 frames, the file weighs about 20MB
- RAW 14bit normal compression - 9 frames, the file weighs about 15MB
Frame buffer is one of the most important indicators of camera speed... Even my old lady Nikon D200 squeezes 21 frames of continuous shooting and gives as much as 4 seconds of shooting without brakes in a series of 5 fps. The camera buffer of the Nikon D7000 in RAW mode greatly disappointed, I don’t know what those who say about the professionalism of Nikon D7000 think.
Photo on Nikon D7000
4. Nikon D7000 has convenient help with tips, different shooting modes like “night portrait” or “sports”. The camera has a convenient photo editing system. For those who are too lazy to mess around with editing programs on a computer, the Nikon D7000 has an excellent image editor built in. Also, in addition to JPEG processing, the Nikon D7000 camera supports RAW processing.
Black shutter button on the D7000. View of the shutter button and monochrome display.
5. The display of the camera is excellent, with 920.000 pixels. The display is very large and bright. Viewing images on the display is a pleasure. The same display is on Nikon D90, D300, D300s, D700, D3 etc.
Photo on Nikon D7000 Neutral Picture Control
6. The ergonomics of the camera is excellent. The additional display helps a lot. It is very convenient to configure the basic parameters for an external monochrome display. The external monochrome display has a backlight. U1, U2 modes allow you to save all the necessary settings and quickly switch between the settings of the camera U1 and U2.
Example photo on Nikon D7000
7. Nikon D7000 supports AF lenses without built-in focus motor. For example, Nikon D7000 will work fine without motor cheap and high quality lenses. Nikon 50mm F1.8D, Nikon 85mm F1.8D, Nikon 70-210mm F4.0AF etc. And also, Nikon D7000 gives the chance to work with AI, AI-S and any other old lenses. For example, the camera can easily make friends with manual lenses Nikon 50mm f / 1.2 AI-s Nikkor, Helios-81H, and Nikon 100mm F / 2.8 Series E etc .. If you specify the parameters of the manual lens in the camera menu, then matrix metering will be available exposure... The camera can store 9 'non-CPU' lenses (the same number in the more serious D300s / D3s / D3X). Only the following DX cameras could work with old lenses: Nikon D200, D300, D300s. Nikon D7000 uses a unique focus module Multi-CAM 4800DX with 39 sensors (9 cruciform)which is the same as a full-frame camera Nikon D600... 39 focus points are enough for any kind of photography. Focusing accuracy and speed are highly dependent on the lens rather than the focusing system. And the camera has a new one 2016 pixel RGB sensor measuring exposure.
Nikon D7000 - Back View
9. Viewfinder 100%. This means the following: what you see in the viewfinder when you zoom in is fully consistent with what will be in the photo. Typically, coverage is 95% of the frame. For example, Nikon D90 also 95% and often at the edges of the photo extra details appear, since they are not visible in the viewfinder. A trifle, but very nice.
Example photo on Nikon D7000
10. The camera can shoot video with a maximum quality of Full HD 1,920 X 1,080 (24p), while using a mono microphone (for stereo sound, you should buy a separate stereo microphone). The camera has automatic focus when shooting video, which they could not Nikon D90, D5000. The video is of sufficient quality (according to the reviews of my colleagues, I myself am not strong in video analysis). The maximum length of a video is 20 minutes. Of course, the camera has a Live View mode. In this mode, focusing is performed in contrast and is much slower in speed than normal focusing using the optical viewfinder and phase sensors. The Live View button is combined with the video recording button. In focus mode AF-C and with Live View turned on, the camera automatically monitors focus, even if the shutter button is not pressed.
Sample photo on Nikon D 7000
11. The flash can work in command mode on system Nikon CLS. When using external flash units SB-600, SB-700, SB-800, SB-900, SB-910 (or from third-party manufacturers) quick synchronization with shutter speeds up to 1/8000 is possible, this is very important when photographing with flash at slow shutter speeds.
Photo on Nikon D7000
12. A bunch of pleasant things: the shutter withstands at least 150.000 operations, the camera has a gyroscope, the ability to shoot at intervals, alignment (adjustment) of precise focusing and many others.
Two memory card slots on the D7000
Personal impressions:
The camera is very good. The camera menu is very large, it is not so easy to figure it out. In the review, I touched only on vital points for the photographer, if you need to find some trifle in the settings, then the instructions will help.
In many ways, the Nikon D7000 is one of the best DX-format cameras. When they ask me which advanced camera I recommend, then Nikon D7000 is the best option.if the issue price does not play a role. In my hands, in my opinion, the camera looks more like Nikon D90than on Nikon D300s. Image quality: at a high level, however, you can only talk about matrix noise, color reproduction, etc., since the image itself forms the lens and at low distinguish one camera from another. Some of my colleagues video operators shoot video on the Nikon D7000, and it is for the sake of video that they take this camera. Also, very often the Nikon D7000 is very popular as a second camera with professional photographers.
Example photo on Nikon D7000
Comparison with other, similar in functionality, cameras from Nikon
Nikon D90 VS Nikon D7000
The Nikon D7000 has a step higher ISO, and two steps higher maximum (extended) ISO. 4MP added. The viewfinder covers 100%. Support for manual lenses has been added, autofocus has appeared when shooting video, video quality has reached Full HD, and the shooting speed has increased by 1.5 fps. Another slot for memory cards has been added; the Nikon D7000 can use more capacious ones SD XC cards. The number of focus points has increased, exposure metering has improved, and a virtual horizon has been added. All in all, D7000 all better for the Nikon D90. Ergonomics and overall functionality are very similar. I do not recommend changing Nikon D90 to D7000.
Nikon D7000 VS Nikon D300, D300s
The D7000 beats the D300s at 6 fps in 14-bit RAW mode versus 2.5 fps in 14-bit RAW mode on the D300s. Also, the D7000 has 1 stop higher ISO sensitivity, better video with autofocus. But the D300s has a more robust body, more focus points (51 versus 39), support CF memory cards, higher burst speed, larger buffer and professional ergonomics. Nikon D300 performance is better for Nikon D7000. I do not recommend changing D300, D300s to Nikon D7000, and vice versa, D7000 to D300s.
Nikon D7000 has a younger brother, the continuation of the line - Nikon D7100.
Sample photo on Nikon D7000
In general, a review about Nikon D7000 can be written endlessly, the camera is simply full of different functions and settings. There are few photos in this review, since while I was testing and delving into the settings, the battery ran out and the charging was not given to me. Please note that the quality of photos depends very much on the lens and other important things when shooting.
Sample photo on Nikon D7000
The parameters shown in the photo gallery:
All shot with Nikon D7000. On-camera JPEG L. Everything was shot in NL picture control mode: contrast correction - 0, brightness - 0, saturation - 0, hue - 0, sharpness - position 9 between 0 and 9. Used white balance: 'Auto', 'Shadow' and 'Cloudy'. The size of the photos was reduced to 3 MP. All shot using a lens Nikon Nikkor AF-S 35mm 1: 1.8G DX.
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
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Conclusions:
Nikon D7000 is a great advanced amateur camera. Many indicators excel in the quality of the camera of a professional line. Nikon D7000 will be useful for both amateur and professional. I recommend.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
What then is the point in these counters, if such an acceleration in the testimony?
The meaning is quite understandable, the camera always shows the absolute minimum that the card can accommodate with these settings. But due to the different compression of different photos, much more usually fits.
By the way, on cameras that allow you to save RAW images without compression, the counter works more clearly, since uncompressed RAW always weighs the same.
understand, thanks! It is strange that on D80 I did not notice this
Good afternoon, Arkady!
Thanks for the interesting and useful review.
I’m thinking of updating my Nikon d3100, though I wondered if it’s worth buying the d7000 now or wait until the d600 comes out. Judging by what they promise, it will not be very expensive, and yet FF.
That suggest?
If the issue of funds is not so important, then I advise you to wait for the new Nikon FF Kameu.
It is strange that in the reviews they do not write about the plastic lens of the eyepiece ((((
I did not write about the eyepiece lens, as I could not verify its quality.
Arkady, I ask for advice. I learned about AF-C mode with 1 center focus point in shutter priority mode. Very comfortably! But lately, I often found myself in shooting conditions when objects were moving, while they were not heaped up, but scattered: dance on stage, round dance, kids who ran with sprinklers, etc. ... In this case, with AF-C mode, 1 the center focus point is tricky because firstly, there is only one point, but objects move, often focus misses or focus is not in the right place, and secondly, there is only one point and you do not have time to move the focusing rectangle in the viewfinder with the joystick in order to focus on the desired object. Which is the best focus mode and how many focus areas, etc. use under these shooting conditions?
Thank you!
Personally, I use focusing in dynamic scenes, too, only on one point, moving it with the joystick (not only along the central point, but also along any available one. If the point does not move, then you need to remove the “L” point lock). But, if it's so difficult, then I recommend turning on 3D tracking for all points for dynamic scenes, the automation behaves differently in different conditions, maybe everything will be fine in your case.
No, Arkady, everything is moving ... there is no blocking, but as if if 11 zones are selected in the settings, then it’s not enough, and if 39, then there are a lot of them, but until you catch the one you need, the object is already leaving the frame, it also happens … There are more selection steps in 39 points. Are you suggesting that I enable 3D tracking in AF-C mode? And while the depth of field will not suffer?
ps
Do you shoot dynamics in AF-C mode too?
Once at a time you don’t have to, therefore, I also adapt to the desired mode. Usually, I shoot everything in AF-C, but, pay attention, this is my personal technique. I’ve set an example about locking, since you wrote only about the central point. Experiment, everything very, very much depends on experience.
And in the viewfinder only one point (rectangle) is always shown, there is no mode when there are a lot of them? That's how I saw somewhere on Kenon?
Of course it happens, in more detail here https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/05/nikon-autofocus/ in the paragraph on “Focus points and focus areas”
“The function“ loop focus points ”, should it be turned on, what do you think? Does it help when working with one point? How do you think?
I use it, you can quickly access the desired area.
will need to try, thanks! otherwise it’s disabled by default
“The function“ loop focus points ”... I don’t understand something, but what is the difference? Have I enabled this option? I tried to shoot, the same as without her, maybe I didn't notice what? What should change, what is the trick?
When you shift the focus point to its most extreme position, it appears at the other end of the viewfinder.
Saw everything…. sorry for carelessness, really handy feature
It's good. I strongly recommend that you read the entire manual for the Nikon D7000
Hello!
Thank you very much for your detailed review, I read from cover to cover and still went to all the links, I read everything there too, very useful!
How much does a RAW file weigh in the D7000, please? read somewhere - 25MB, is that so?
Thank you!
In my paragraph 3 of the review about weight everything is painted. Weight depends on the level of compression and the color depth of the RAW. My largest file weighed 23MB, so 25MB is true.
and, now it’s clear, this is where you write, if 14 bit lossless compression, I get it! thanks!
Can you tell me what parameters the lens should have (not from manual optics) so that it can perfectly shoot video. I know that you are not fond of the video, but still you can advise something. Thank you
In the video, as in the photo, you need to know the purpose of the shooting. For different purposes, different lenses are suitable. Basically, video requires either silent auto focus or a convenient focus ring. And according to the focal lengths and aperture, you have to decide for yourself.
Dyakoy Arkady! And which lenses are quieter in operation, with a screwdriver or with a motor in the lens. Just don’t laugh, please, I have not a lot of experience in the DSLRs (for one year I had an Olympus I-420 kit, it buzzed great, then sold it out of need :). There is a soap box, but after the DSLR, I don’t want to pick it up in my hands. So two years without a SLR so far :( but I really want it. Now I collect a carcass for Nikon D7000, maybe while I collect it, something newer and better appears on our market.
This is a completely normal question. Quite quiet af-s SWM lenses
9,11 and 39 focus points ... How do they differ for dynamic shooting?
Convenience and speed of use.
Not practice, where should I use 1, 9, but where are 39 focus points? Thanks.
If we talk about practice, then you need to go and practice, so that there is an understanding of what you are working with. Most likely, if I advise one or another option here, it may not be so good in your case. Well, if you still need advice, then
1) 39 points mainly in automatic mode (white rectangle), used for shooting without much effort. Automation decides everything itself. For static scenes is quite suitable. But, if you use a fast aperture telephoto lens, then this method can greatly fail.
2) 9 points (zones) can be used when shooting dynamics, only 9 zones easily allows you to choose the one you want to focus at the right time)
3) 1 point - when there is time to choose exactly the place on which you want to focus. A very practical method, but it takes time to select the right point.
Find more about focus here. https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/05/nikon-autofocus/
Arkady!
There are xnumx questions.
1. I have a Soviet Helios 44m lens with an M42-Nikon adapter, with a focus lens for infinity.
Tell me how to properly configure it for Nikon D7000?
How to use such lenses (without contacts, dandelions) on this camera in general?
2. How to make the focus correction for this lens on the D7000?
1. Set the focal length and aperture in the camera menu
2. Make a focus correction, if necessary, according to the instructions for the device :)
According to the instructions for the device it is written: “For lenses with microprocessor only”, i.e. is it impossible for Helios 44m?
So this is not possible, since your G-44m does not have auto focus, which means there is nothing to correct. Manual mode implies that you are fully responsible for the focusing process. I thought that you had an adapter with a chip, then you could fix it.
Well-written review, sensibly: "I do not recommend changing the D300, D300s to Nikon D7000, and vice versa, D7000 to D300s.", - very rightly noted. I have a D200, but changing this absolutely fantastic ergonomics and speed is not easier I would like to have a better matrix, perhaps on the D400 (if there is such a camera).
I gave my son D5100 and had the opportunity to work with her a little.
He is a complete novice in photography and in my opinion this camera is enough for the eye.
The quality of the pictures really pleasantly surprised and pleased me.
Now I am raising funds for myself.
I, unlike him, have a great experience in photography, although I haven’t taken off the last five years, so the digital world suddenly fell on me.
Having carefully analyzed everything that was possible to find about the cameras d5100, d90, d3200, d7000 I came to an unambiguous conclusion - I will take only d7000.
And for some reason, perhaps my thoughts will turn out to be useful to someone:
1. The matrix is as in 5100 and it is better than that of the d90, and the quality of the image is primarily important to me.
2. A device with a motor, and therefore I can immediately take a portrait lens with a focus of 1,4 to it and immediately get the result. Over time, I will add a zoom - most likely from the old tnikons - since the d7000 works with them - that is, I will save a lot of money on lenses (while to purchase the minimum set for the d5100 you will have to spend a lot more money and saving on the carcass will result in an overpayment for glasses, and then stay with a set of lenses and an amateur carcass? It will be a shame ...)
3. Very wide possibilities in setting the modes. It is quite possible to shoot “like a professional” without bothering with hardware settings and scenes.
4. I’ll take not a whale but a separate carcass; I don’t want to make such a device to sculpt dark and unclear whale glasses
5. Though it’s not completely metalic, but it’s all reinforced; it’s just what I need - and it’s not very difficult, and decently strengthens
6. Good flash capabilities.
You can still bring different arguments, I think enough.
I advise those looking for the device to analyze their needs and capabilities and only then take it.
PS.
5100 I do not think is a mistake - a great camera for the money and perfectly meets the requirements for it.
It was the 90 that forced me to abandon the d5100 - decently and noticeably better picture quality.
I happened to shoot with both cameras a little, but enough to decide.
The only pity is that there is no HDR on the 7000. Or I'm wrong?
Thank you for sharing the information. There is still no HDR in the D7000 :(
The D7000 has a multiple exposure. In my opinion this is the same HDR. Instruction p. 152. Or am I wrong?
Multiple exposure is not HDR.
Really. I read your article about the multiple exposure and everything fell into place ..
Please tell me, the lens Sigma 18-50 mm f2.8-4.5 DC OS HSM for Nikon
Suitable for d7000? And do you think this lens will be better than the kit 18-105 included in the kit?
The lens will do. In something better, in something worse.
But can you find out what is worse?
Zoom ratio.
and what do you think would be the best kit
Sigma 18-50 mm f2.8-4.5 DC OS HSM for Nikon + Nikkor AF 70-300mm f / 4-5.6G Black
or Nikkor 50mm f / 1.8D AF + Kit 18-105 VR?
For what purpose?
for portrait and reportage shooting, for shooting various celebrations and portraits in a studio in nature! Also add that there is also a metz 50 flash