When photographing, along with the settings excerpts, aperture, ISO and image quality, one of the most important parameters for a SLR camera is the correct setting of the focus mode and method.
Focus on Nikon
Nikon has many focus options with different combinations of focus modes and focus areas. Usually focusing on modern Nikon DSLR cameras occurs when pressing the shutter button halfwayor by pressing the dedicated AF-ON button.
Focus Modes:
'AF-S' or 'S' (Auto Focus Single) - focus mode camera, in which the camera, when the shutter button is pressed halfway, focuses on focus, and when a successful aim is achieved, it stops focusing. Once pressed - once focused... In the manuals for cameras, the mode is often translated as'Single AF Tracking'. To change the aiming accuracy, release the button and press it again. The mode is suitable for static scenes.
Focus mode switch Nikon D700. The same is available on cameras Nikon D300, D300s, D200, D1, D2, D3 etc.
'AF-C' or 'C' (Auto Focus Continuous) - tracking continuous (continuous) mode of automatic focus of the camera (in the instructions it is often translated as'Continuous AF Tracking'). When the shutter button is pressed halfway, the camera constantly tries to focus correctly. Pressed the button - and the camera constantly monitors the focus. A very useful mode when subjects are moving or composition changes.
AF-A (Auto Focus Automatic) - automatic focus mode selection camera. In this mode, the camera can choose to work in AF-S or AF-C mode. Basically, all amateurs shoot in AF-A mode and often do not even suspect the presence of other modes. I noticed that the mode AF-A more often behaves like the AF-S mode.
AF-A, AF-C, AF-S mode selector on Nikon D90
AF (auto focus) - general auto focus mode. The mode is enabled on the camera itself, not to be confused with the 'A' mode on the lens itself.
AF focus mode switch (lever) on the camera
MF (manual focusing) - manual focus camera... The mode is activated using the camera menu. Usually only cameras without a focus motor have this mode. In this mode, you need to manually rotate the focusing ring on the lens to achieve correct focusing. On the one hand: manual focus can be difficult for beginners, on the other hand: it is A vital focus method for advanced photographers and professionals. Manual focus on the CZK is one of the major advantages over conventional digital cameras (soap dishes). Very often, the automation of the camera and the lens cannot determine how to focus correctly and to achieve optimal focus, just switch to manual mode and point the camera manually for precise focus.
Focus Mode Switch Using the Nikon D5100 Camera Menu
M (M - manual focusing) - manual focus on the lens or on the camera. Same as MF. Attention: Not all lenses have a focus mode switch, such as a lens Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor It has no focus switches at all. It's important: in order to switch to manual focus mode MF with a lens that does not have a focus mode switch, you need to switch the focus lever to mode M on a camera with a focus motor; on a camera without a focus motor, only the MF mode with such a lens will always be available. About different types of lenses and cameras is described in detail in the section Nikon Lens Differences.
Lens with focus mode switch and lens without focus mode switch
A (Auto) - auto focus mode lens. In this position of the focus switch on the lens, only automatic focusing with the lens is available. Attention: not all lenses have such a focus operation switch, for example, the switch on the lens is shown below Nikon 85mm f / 1.4D AF Nikkor.
Example of a manual or auto focus lens
M / A (autofocus with manual override) - automatic focusing lens with priority of manual control. Attention: not all lenses have this focus mode, the example below shows the switch on the lens Nikon 85mm f / 1.4GN AF-S Nikkor. This mode implies auto focus with instant manual focus adjustmentand the lens does not need to be set to focus mode 'M'. You can read more about this mode. here.
This is how the switch of focus modes on the lens with support for MA-M mode looks
AF-F (Full Time Servo Auto Focus) - continuous tracking focus mode for video shooting. Attention: This focus mode is only available on modern cameras with the ability to record video. This mode does not work when taking pictures. Usually you cannot find the mode in the menu AF-F, it is only available in live view when entering the info menu. This is a very useful mode, it allows you to record with constant auto focus. This mode is available only in cameras starting from Nikon D3100.
AF-F mode for shooting video
Important: due to the fact that all Nikon CZKs have different controls and different menus, each camera switches its focus mode in its own way. In the general case, M, AF, S, C is responsible for choosing the focus mode switch near lens mount for cameras with a focus motor and settings in the menu of the camera itself. For non-powered cameras, the focus mode is selected only through the camera menu. Different combinations of settings for different types of cameras are shown in the diagrams above.
Damn important: if you use a camera with a focus motor, and on it is a lens with auto focus but without a focus motor and without a focus mode switch on the lens itself, for example, a bunch Nikon D90 (camera with motor) and lens Nikon 85mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor (without focusing motor and without focusing mode switch) - for manual focusing, be sure to switch the lever near the camera mount to the 'M' position, otherwise when focusing manually can damage the camera.
A number of cameras from Nikon have a built-in rangefinder (focus indicator in the viewfinder). The rangefinder in the viewfinder can tell in which direction you need to rotate the focus ring on the lens in order to achieve the correct focus. The range finder works both with automatic and manual focusing. Rangefinder is in the cameras Nikon D3100, D5100, D700 etc. In general, on older lenses that could not focus automatically, there is a special focusing scale, which indicates the distance to the focusing object. It's a pity when using the old AI-S optics on younger Nikon cameras, the rangefinder refuses to work. With manual optics, the rangefinder only works on older Nikon cameras.
The principle of operation of the electronic rangefinder
On any Nikon CLC camera, the green circle in the viewfinder in the lower left corner of the viewfinder is responsible for the accuracy of focusing on the selected focus point. When it is on, this means that the sharpness at the selected point is normal. The green dot (focus confirmation point) is an indispensable tool when working with old class lenses AI-S and similar, for example, such as Nikon 100mm F / 2.8 Series E MF
A green dot that confirms correct focus
Advanced cameras have fine-tuning the focus: Release priority and Focus priority in AF-C and AF-S mode.
Usually in AF-C mode, the choice is:
- FPS frequency - the shutter release is more important for the camera than the focusing accuracy, this is called release priority
- FPS + AF frequency - the shutter is more important for the camera, but it also takes into account the focusing accuracy (not available on all cameras)
- Focus - the focus is more important for the camera, not the shooting speed.
Using the priority setting, you can set what is most important when shooting - focus, and then release the shutter, or release the shutter and ignore focus. I set AF-S priority to focus priority mode, AF-C to shutter priority mode.
Setting Focus Priorities
Important Note:
Younger Nikon cameras do not support shutter priority mode (release priority). The exact list of cameras, as well as other useful information on limiting priorities, can be found in the section “Unpleasant restriction of Nikon entry-level cameras and its solution", As well as in the section"Restructuring AF-S, AF-C modes when working with an external flash. Features Focus Focus".
Live View
live view allows you to turn a complex SLR camera into an ordinary soap box, that is, you can focus (photograph) using the large display of the camera itself, and not through the optical viewfinder (peephole). In Live View, focus is based on contrast. This method is much slower for normal focusing through the optical viewfinder. Moreover, the difference in focusing speed in Live View mode and through the optical viewfinder can be tens of times. Some cameras have two focusing modes in Live View mode. The first one is “tripod” focusing, it is done as on conventional digital cameras (dichotomously, in contrast). Second, you can frame the frame through Live View, but when you press the shutter button to focus, the camera turns off Live View, focuses through the usual focusing system, and then turns on Live View again or takes a picture. For a simple description of how Live View works, see Dmitry Evtifeev’s blog.
How Live View Works
Important:
camera Nikon D700 и Nikon D300 in Live View and Tripod sub-modes, focus only when AF-ON button is pressed.
Focus Points and Focus Areas
Each camera has a different number of points and areas through which it can focus. A special module is responsible for focusing in the camera, which is located at the bottom of the camera’s mirror. The focusing module just calculates the phase values, on the basis of which it gives a command to perform focusing. In fact, modern central control valves have two mirrors, the second mirror serves to perform focusing through the focus module, in more detail here... Usually, a focusing module consists of a certain number of points (zones) on which focus analysis is performed. For 2012 Nikon has cameras with 3, 5, 11, 39, 51 focus points. The number of points affects the usability and focusing accuracy of the camera. You can read in more detail about focus systems on Nikon cameras.
The image shows the focus point where focus is achieved.
For working with focus points, the settings are responsible. AF-area mode.
- Automatic (auto-area AF), denoted as a white rectangle. Focuses on the closest subject using all available points.
- Dynamic (dynamic-area AF), focusing works on only one point, but takes into account information with adjacent points
- Single Point AF, focuses on only one point.
- Additional: 3D-tracking, or the choice of several zones. Such settings are not available on all cameras and often they are sub-functions of the dynamic focus area selection.
Points and focus method: AF-S single point
Important:
It’s very convenient to set the choice of the focus area method for amateur and advanced amateur cameras using a soft key (as I did on Nikon D90) This will allow you to quickly switch between focusing on a single point, automatic zone selection, dynamic mode, 3D tracking, etc. On Nikon professional and flagship cameras, a special zone switch is provided, which simplifies the work with professional equipment.
Attention:
in manual focus mode (M, MF), only one focus point is available.
Important:
A number of cameras can show in the image at which point or group of points the focus was performed. When viewing a picture, you can activate a mode in which the focus points are indicated by squares. This mode is supported only by professional cameras of the type D200, D300 and all full-frame. This is convenient because when setting up a quick preview of the image on a 1 to 1 scale, scaling is done exactly at the focus point at which the shooting was performed. This allows you to quickly check and select good sharp pictures. On advanced amateur and amateur cameras, to view the correct focusing, press the zoom button, and then use the selector to find the area in the image by which focus was performed. If your camera does not have a function that shows at which point the focus was performed, you can use ViewNX, which comes with the camera. Focus points can be displayed on the computer display. This is sometimes very helpful. In the sample photos, I just copied the work of ViewNX 2.
Important:
ViewNX only displays focus points on the computer when the picture was taken in AF-A, AF-S, AF-C modes with focus priority. If AF-S, AF-C with shutter priority is selected, the program will show focus points only if the camera was sure that the focus was correct.
Important:
Not all Nikon cameras allow you to change the area and type of focus when using the automatic modes (green mode). In modes P, A, S, M, everything can be customized to your taste.
Single point focus. AF-C focus mode
Focus point loop function
This function simply allows you to move the focus point in a circle, thus looping it around. When the rightmost point is selected, when you press the selector right, the focus point will go to the leftmost position. This function simply allows you to speed up the work when focusing on a single point.
Wide and standard focus area
In some cameras, you can choose a wide focus area, in contrast to the usual. A wide focus area reduces the number of focus points (zones). For example, for Nikon D200 With 11 focus points, 7 wide areas are created. Optically in the viewfinder, the zones will be larger in size than the dots. This sometimes simplifies the work with the camera.
Focus adjustment (alignment)
Sometimes the lens may malfunction and focus behind the subject (back) or in front of the focus object (front). In the people, such a lack of lenses is called back focus, front focus (back and front focus). Some cameras may adjust to the “wrong” lens. To do this, you need to find the focus adjustment in the camera and adjust the focus. Only have tuning Nikon D300, D300s, D500, D7000, D7100, D7200, D7500, D700, D750, D780, D800e, D800E, D810,D810a, D3, D3s, D3x, D4, D4s, D5, Df, D600, D610.
Focusing with Dark Lenses
Almost all Nikon cameras can focus without problems automatically only when using lenses with apertures up to F / 5.6. This is indicated in the camera manual. When using lenses with a smaller aperture, such as the Tamron 28-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 XR Di VC LD Asph (IF) Macro, it may be difficult to focus on the F / 6.3 aperture. Also, when using teleconvertersthat decrease the effective aperture value of the converter lens, focusing problems may also occur. Only a few cameras can focus without problems with F / 8.0 lenses. The limitation is related to the number of focus points that can work normally at F / 5.6-F / 8.0. You can find more details about which cameras and which focus points (zones) are used to work with 'dark' lenses here.
Single-point focusing with the Nikon D2Xs
Cross-shaped focus points (sensors) vs regular focus points
How many times I didn’t use one-point focusing, I did not find the difference in the quality of focusing using the cross-shaped point and the usual focusing point. Basically, cross-shaped focus points (sensors) are said to do a much better job of focusing than regular focus points. It is generally accepted that cross-shaped focus points are better at handling 'wire against sky' scenes.
Focus light
Nikon cameras have a special light bulb that helps focus in dark conditions. The light bulb simply illuminates the subject in focus and autofocus is easier to focus on. The backlight may not come on in AF-C mode. The focus light is often called the “spotlight” and is recommended to be turned off. Personally, I have the backlight turned off, but in poor lighting conditions I use a flash that has its own "red spot" with a long range. More details about the flashlight in photo tricks section.
Focus light
Important:
Some Nikon CLCs for some reason do not illuminate the subject with the AF-assist lamp in single-point focus mode, if a non-central point is selected. As far as I know, all Nikon cameras provide auxiliary illumination with a lamp in single-point focus mode, if the center focus point is selected.
Important:
Flagship Niko camerasn such as Nikon D1, Dh, D1x, D2h, D2x, D2hs, D2xs, D3, D3s, D3x, Df, D4, D4s, D5 do not have a focus assist lamp at all.
Interesting:
Nikon cameras can be implemented very simply focus trap.
AF-S single-point focusing mode
My experience and recommendations on focusing on Nikon cameras can be found here.
Is everything complicated and little understood?
Then just turn on AF-A and the icon with a rectangular focus area. Automation copes well with the main tasks. I recommend fully automatic focusing for home use. Sometimes fine-tuning the modes of the focus points does not justify itself.
Which Nikon camera focuses best?
Focus best Nikon D5 and Nikon D500 with the most advanced focus modules.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions:
Learning how to deal with focus modes will help you more accurately and quickly achieve the desired result. I strongly recommend experimenting with the modes and focus areas on your camera.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
"For me personally, the lack of an immediate command to release the shutter with the button fully pressed in AF-S / AF-C mode is the main disadvantage of Nikon amateur cameras."
On my D3200, the button on the camera “AE-L / AF-L” can be configured to autofocus (AF-S or AF-C) and it can focus on anything (the lens focuses while the button is pressed), and the half-pressed position of the shutter button to lock Auto exposure. And it's convenient!
Hello! Could you tell me how to reconfigure the AE-L AF-L button on the D3200 with autofocus modes?
Good afternoon, Arkady. The next question is - is it really not desirable to fine-tune autofocus in the camera menu for a specific lens, for example a whale, and what is the threat? Is it better to immediately service it?
Arkady, hello!
You write: “Nikon junior cameras do not support Release priority mode in AF-S / AF-C modes and only work in Focus priority mode. This means that even in continuous mode with the shutter button fully pressed, the camera will not take a picture until it is “confident” that it is in focus. This is the biggest drawback of many amateur cameras: Nikon D40, D50, D40x, D60, D3000, D3100, D5000, D3200 (except for D5100, D5200, D5300, D5500). This is an accurate list. For me personally, the lack of an immediate command to release the shutter with the button fully pressed in AF-S / AF-C mode is the main disadvantage of Nikon amateur cameras. ”
и
“Advanced amateur cameras from Nikon, such as Nikon D80, D90 in AF-C mode, shoot with Release Priority. This means that even if the camera did not have time to focus, or did not focus correctly, and you pressed the shutter button completely, the camera will listen to you and take a picture. It is very pleasant to work when the camera immediately follows the command to shoot. Release Priority is built into these cameras by default. ”
Please tell me, is it necessary to take a picture if the camera has not yet focused? In theory, will there be a high percentage of marriage?
You have written quite categorically, I would very much like to understand why this is so.
The autofocus system in low light can play a cruel joke - to think and try to focus in another place, and this is wasted seconds that turn into a completely lost frame. Therefore, sometimes it is better to take a picture with a small defect (and then use it in Photoshop) than not to take it at all.
An airplane is flying in the sky. The camera is already focused at infinity. We press the trigger and ... There will be no frame until the plane hits the focus point.
If the picture came out with an insignificant / medium defect, it is almost always possible to draw it in lightroom. And then finalize it in Photoshop. There are valuable shots that are impossible to reshoot, the lost seconds threaten to get nothing at all, so if the frame is really worth it, you can pant over its pulling))) ps of course this is true when shooting in raw
Hello Arkady
On my nikon d4 in the viewfinder, in addition to the active focus points, passive ones are also dimly viewed (this is especially evident in AF-S S mode, when only the center point is active, but I see it against the rest of the inactive ones that are in the viewfinder, but all is dim are viewed).
To be honest, it’s annoying when you look into the viewfinder and there, in addition to the subject, passive dots blink and are dimly viewed. They are not particularly visible against the background of the main one, but in the viewfinder this is noticeable. I put in the menu the brightness of the point -1 Low. It became better. Passive points are no longer visible on a light background. But if you look at something dark in the viewfinder, then they are at least dim, but still visible.
I have a question for you: “Is it some kind of malfunction in the focusing system of my camera, or is it possible, how can I remove or dim it so that only active points are visible in the viewfinder?
Or is this normal for nikon d4? "
I have a second nikon d800 camera. Everything is in order there. No extra points are visible, but only active (which turn on when the shutter release button is pressed)
Hello, tell me please: I want to take a Nikon 5200 camera and a Tamron 24-85 instead of a whale lens. Does this mean that autofocus will not work, since the camera is without a motor? Is it really scary? Or is it a novice trouble? I just want to take the perfect option right away)))
It’s even a novice trouble if you need speed. Better take a D5200 and a lens with a motor.
Thanks for the answer! Speed is not important to me, image quality is important. It's just that everyone praises the tamron for its drawing and scold the whale lenses. So I think I can take the carcass and pick up a good lens for it, within a reasonable amount. I was already tortured with a choice !!!)))
Elena, where did you find Tamron 24-85? Maybe it's still about 28-75? If you made a mistake, and it's about 28-75, then it has a built-in motor, as far as I know.
The second question is why such a range for the D5200? A better option is the Tamron 17-50 f / 2.8 with or without stabilizer.
tamron has the GREATest picture quality.
flat, dull, although sometimes (but ONLY very good sometimes) there is a decent sharpness.
Yes, I was wrong))) Tamron SP AF 28-75mm f / 2.8 XR Di LD for Canon / Nikon - he.
Thanks for the advice, it's just my first DSLR and first lens, so I want to try as many options as possible. In general, ideally - landscape, street, portrait, subject, macro. But money only for a camera and 1 lens)))
So I choose to make everything as possible as possible - in one and a super picture)
Elena, if we consider only tamrons, then 17-50 will be more advantageous for landscapes (wider angle), and for portraits - 28-75 (blur is more beautiful).
And if not just a tamron?)
Then indicate the maximum amount that you are willing to spend on the lens)
Autofocus stopped working when shooting video on the d750. And immediately on all lenses. Af-s 28 1.8, 50 1.8D, Af-s 85 1.8. The switches are on autofocus, not on manul. In video mode, I try to change Af-s af-f with different settings and nothing. There is no autofocus. With the photo, everything is fine. WHERE to dig ??? Thanks.
Z.Y. Mom told me, do not go with Sonya. A500, A77 are available, I will take the a6000 so everything with autofocus is ok, well, except 500, since without video.
In the firmware and call on the Nikon hotline
Thank you Lynx. I have already decided. Reset all settings to factory defaults. It's unpleasant. I had to reconfigure it again for myself with fear that at the crucial moment (I shoot weddings) it would give a glitch. With Sony, this was not the case (A500, A77). I have been using the camera for almost half a year. Impressions? In a nutshell - Sony is Better (one price range, and Sony will be cheaper)
Goodnight! I have a Nikon D3100, for the second time the following situation occurs: the focus does not work in either automatic or manual modes and the lens buzzes. Tell me what to do?
PS Sometimes I took the camera by the lens (
1. Too dark and autofocus cannot focus.
2. In whales 18-55, autofocus gears sometimes fly.
You can take another lens and check for jamming in exactly the same conditions.
Good afternoon. I bought nikon d300s, please tell me how many focus points are visible in the viewfinder. I only see one. switched to 21,51 everything is exactly visible, only one is normal. or what am I doing wrong. thanks
the range finder is on (left arrow, two arrows pointing at each other) what to do? autofocus does not work, that is, focusing does not work at all on the lens, although I put a different lens on it, everything works, please tell me what to do in this case, the autofocus is set up the same way as in instructions above.
camera d7100 lens 18-55 which does not focus (forgot to add
if the AF switch on the lens is on 'A', then the lens is probably faulty, as we wrote above, then the AF gears fly out. Check the lens on another unit to be sure.
Hello, I have a question Nikon d 600
on the manual, in autofocus mode, you can set the auto focus so that you don’t move the point to that area of the frame where I want to focus, but so what would I find?
Tell us what material should complement this article. Note. If you have any questions regarding your Nikon product, contact customer service.
Awesome article. All on the shelves. I broke my head, from what lane in my 810 and there is no sharpness in motion. Was and disappeared. Arkady, thanks. Found with your help.
What was the problem?
Question to the author: I need the sound of confirmation of autofocus. Previously used the D-90, there this function worked with a bang. Now I’ve switched to D-600 (I used to buy it from my hands) and although I can’t activate it, I already reset the settings and reflash it, and turned the volume to maximum. The device focuses normally, but there is no confirmation sound. I use AF-S more often. Is this a glitch?
Tell me autofocus on Nikon d610 has stopped working, what can I advise?
Well…. there are two options.
1. Transfer focus mode from M to AF.
2. carry in repair.
And how much can the repair cost? d-610 camera
not more expensive than money, not cheaper "for a look"
Another third - Af-s
AF-s + AF-c = AF
I meant lens type
"In manual focus mode (M, MF), only one focus point can be focused."
Then add to the article that on manual lenses for the correct operation of the range finder and the correct hint of the green dot, you must necessarily use the joystick to move the focus point to the desired subject.
If you do not do this, then you can fly with focus, relying on a green dot that will show focus on another object, such as a background.
There is a link to this for manual lenses https://radojuva.com/2011/04/optika-na-nikon/#how-focusing
And how to “fly by” if one focusing point always remains active with a manual lens and is highlighted with a black or red frame.
I’m saying that in order not to fly over, you need to move this point with the joystick to the subject, so that it does not fall on the background, which is next.
Help with setting the button, I select the d810 camera so that the multi selector button in LV (photo) mode has an increase and it does not work (((I switched the camera to MF mode, there is no autofocus on the lens)
Tell me, is there a universal lens for nikon3100?
There is. Nikkor 58mm / 1.2
Seriously 18- ...
My nikon 5200 focus points are not highlighted! I just can't figure it out with autofocus ... it smears all the time. I understand that my hands are from one place! but can the camera not work correctly?
When I choose the foresight point. manually, then nothing is highlighted there, that is, I do not see which point is selected as a result! Here on the canon 450 you can see everything, for example ...
what to do?)))))
Does the camera have AF-C enabled?
Yes, I tried AF-C
it never highlights dots ... I don't know how it should be?
On the contrary, it always highlights, even in manual mode. Can show in service?
((((((((((I'm in sadness, bought from my hands ...
What does "highlight" mean? There are no LEDs (“red points” as on 3200) and should not be in the field of the frame. There are just black “liquid crystal” squares (item 2 in the figure) Their number depends on your choice of the number of focus points (1,9,21 or 39) and from subjects in focus. And there is also a focus indicator (pos. 7) "green dot", which blinks during focusing and stays on when the camera is focused.
And when half-pressing the trigger, how do the focus points (point) behave? I have from the last d5100. By the way, Ksyu, can you focus on the AE-L / AF-L button assigned?
Hello, I have a Nikon D5200, they gave me an AF 180mm 1: 2.8 D lens. Autofocus does not work. Does it make sense to put a dandelion?
If you find it otherwise difficult, inconvenient to shoot, that is.
Autofocus will not appear.
Mikhail and Alexei. Have you all read what is written? And it says D, what a ... dandelion.
KaleksmuG. Have you definitely read my comment?
I used the d7200 camera calmly for half a year, until I decided to try to shoot with contrast autofocus. This afternoon I got this result (+ \ - better, worse) in the photo. I tried it before, if it’s a big black cross, it’s hit, and if there are a lot of black squares (I have such a target), then right on the screen you can see that the focus is not caught, you press it again, it focuses. There were no such problems on the d3100. Is there a method for determining the correct contrast autofocus, because I think that I will carry it to the workshop under warranty, they will remove me from the big target and say everything is good.
require replacing the contrast autofocus sensor :)
Hello. My question is this: on the Nikon D3100 DX AF-S 18-55 mm camera, the ring does not rotate by 55, it only rotates within 18-24, is this a breakdown? And if there is a breakdown, then a breakdown of which lens or camera?
Lens repair. Well, or take another one better.
Repair will be more expensive than the lens itself
For the future, Arkady - on D7100 and beyond, D810, etc. the green point is already white)
Fixed
and I don’t pay attention - even if it’s green or white, the main thing is that it’s in the same corner))