When photographing, along with the settings excerpts, aperture, ISO and image quality, one of the most important parameters for a SLR camera is the correct setting of the focus mode and method.
Focus on Nikon
Nikon has many focus options with different combinations of focus modes and focus areas. Usually focusing on modern Nikon DSLR cameras occurs when pressing the shutter button halfwayor by pressing the dedicated AF-ON button.
Focus Modes:
'AF-S' or 'S' (Auto Focus Single) - focus mode camera, in which the camera, when the shutter button is pressed halfway, focuses on focus, and when a successful aim is achieved, it stops focusing. Once pressed - once focused... In the manuals for cameras, the mode is often translated as'Single AF Tracking'. To change the aiming accuracy, release the button and press it again. The mode is suitable for static scenes.
Focus mode switch Nikon D700. The same is available on cameras Nikon D300, D300s, D200, D1, D2, D3 etc.
'AF-C' or 'C' (Auto Focus Continuous) - tracking continuous (continuous) mode of automatic focus of the camera (in the instructions it is often translated as'Continuous AF Tracking'). When the shutter button is pressed halfway, the camera constantly tries to focus correctly. Pressed the button - and the camera constantly monitors the focus. A very useful mode when subjects are moving or composition changes.
AF-A (Auto Focus Automatic) - automatic focus mode selection camera. In this mode, the camera can choose to work in AF-S or AF-C mode. Basically, all amateurs shoot in AF-A mode and often do not even suspect the presence of other modes. I noticed that the mode AF-A more often behaves like the AF-S mode.
AF-A, AF-C, AF-S mode selector on Nikon D90
AF (auto focus) - general auto focus mode. The mode is enabled on the camera itself, not to be confused with the 'A' mode on the lens itself.
AF focus mode switch (lever) on the camera
MF (manual focusing) - manual focus camera... The mode is activated using the camera menu. Usually only cameras without a focus motor have this mode. In this mode, you need to manually rotate the focusing ring on the lens to achieve correct focusing. On the one hand: manual focus can be difficult for beginners, on the other hand: it is A vital focus method for advanced photographers and professionals. Manual focus on the CZK is one of the major advantages over conventional digital cameras (soap dishes). Very often, the automation of the camera and the lens cannot determine how to focus correctly and to achieve optimal focus, just switch to manual mode and point the camera manually for precise focus.
Focus Mode Switch Using the Nikon D5100 Camera Menu
M (M - manual focusing) - manual focus on the lens or on the camera. Same as MF. Attention: Not all lenses have a focus mode switch, such as a lens Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor It has no focus switches at all. It's important: in order to switch to manual focus mode MF with a lens that does not have a focus mode switch, you need to switch the focus lever to mode M on a camera with a focus motor; on a camera without a focus motor, only the MF mode with such a lens will always be available. About different types of lenses and cameras is described in detail in the section Nikon Lens Differences.
Lens with focus mode switch and lens without focus mode switch
A (Auto) - auto focus mode lens. In this position of the focus switch on the lens, only automatic focusing with the lens is available. Attention: not all lenses have such a focus operation switch, for example, the switch on the lens is shown below Nikon 85mm f / 1.4D AF Nikkor.
Example of a manual or auto focus lens
M / A (autofocus with manual override) - automatic focusing lens with priority of manual control. Attention: not all lenses have this focus mode, the example below shows the switch on the lens Nikon 85mm f / 1.4GN AF-S Nikkor. This mode implies auto focus with instant manual focus adjustmentand the lens does not need to be set to focus mode 'M'. You can read more about this mode. here.
This is how the switch of focus modes on the lens with support for MA-M mode looks
AF-F (Full Time Servo Auto Focus) - continuous tracking focus mode for video shooting. Attention: This focus mode is only available on modern cameras with the ability to record video. This mode does not work when taking pictures. Usually you cannot find the mode in the menu AF-F, it is only available in live view when entering the info menu. This is a very useful mode, it allows you to record with constant auto focus. This mode is available only in cameras starting from Nikon D3100.
AF-F mode for shooting video
Important: due to the fact that all Nikon CZKs have different controls and different menus, each camera switches its focus mode in its own way. In the general case, M, AF, S, C is responsible for choosing the focus mode switch near lens mount for cameras with a focus motor and settings in the menu of the camera itself. For non-powered cameras, the focus mode is selected only through the camera menu. Different combinations of settings for different types of cameras are shown in the diagrams above.
Damn important: if you use a camera with a focus motor, and on it is a lens with auto focus but without a focus motor and without a focus mode switch on the lens itself, for example, a bunch Nikon D90 (camera with motor) and lens Nikon 85mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor (without focusing motor and without focusing mode switch) - for manual focusing, be sure to switch the lever near the camera mount to the 'M' position, otherwise when focusing manually can damage the camera.
A number of cameras from Nikon have a built-in rangefinder (focus indicator in the viewfinder). The rangefinder in the viewfinder can tell in which direction you need to rotate the focus ring on the lens in order to achieve the correct focus. The range finder works both with automatic and manual focusing. Rangefinder is in the cameras Nikon D3100, D5100, D700 etc. In general, on older lenses that could not focus automatically, there is a special focusing scale, which indicates the distance to the focusing object. It's a pity when using the old AI-S optics on younger Nikon cameras, the rangefinder refuses to work. With manual optics, the rangefinder only works on older Nikon cameras.
The principle of operation of the electronic rangefinder
On any Nikon CLC camera, the green circle in the viewfinder in the lower left corner of the viewfinder is responsible for the accuracy of focusing on the selected focus point. When it is on, this means that the sharpness at the selected point is normal. The green dot (focus confirmation point) is an indispensable tool when working with old class lenses AI-S and similar, for example, such as Nikon 100mm F / 2.8 Series E MF
A green dot that confirms correct focus
Advanced cameras have fine-tuning the focus: Release priority and Focus priority in AF-C and AF-S mode.
Usually in AF-C mode, the choice is:
- FPS frequency - the shutter release is more important for the camera than the focusing accuracy, this is called release priority
- FPS + AF frequency - the shutter is more important for the camera, but it also takes into account the focusing accuracy (not available on all cameras)
- Focus - the focus is more important for the camera, not the shooting speed.
Using the priority setting, you can set what is most important when shooting - focus, and then release the shutter, or release the shutter and ignore focus. I set AF-S priority to focus priority mode, AF-C to shutter priority mode.
Setting Focus Priorities
Important Note:
Younger Nikon cameras do not support shutter priority mode (release priority). The exact list of cameras, as well as other useful information on limiting priorities, can be found in the section “Unpleasant restriction of Nikon entry-level cameras and its solution", As well as in the section"Restructuring AF-S, AF-C modes when working with an external flash. Features Focus Focus".
Live View
live view allows you to turn a complex SLR camera into an ordinary soap box, that is, you can focus (photograph) using the large display of the camera itself, and not through the optical viewfinder (peephole). In Live View, focus is based on contrast. This method is much slower for normal focusing through the optical viewfinder. Moreover, the difference in focusing speed in Live View mode and through the optical viewfinder can be tens of times. Some cameras have two focusing modes in Live View mode. The first one is “tripod” focusing, it is done as on conventional digital cameras (dichotomously, in contrast). Second, you can frame the frame through Live View, but when you press the shutter button to focus, the camera turns off Live View, focuses through the usual focusing system, and then turns on Live View again or takes a picture. For a simple description of how Live View works, see Dmitry Evtifeev’s blog.
How Live View Works
Important:
camera Nikon D700 и Nikon D300 in Live View and Tripod sub-modes, focus only when AF-ON button is pressed.
Focus Points and Focus Areas
Each camera has a different number of points and areas through which it can focus. A special module is responsible for focusing in the camera, which is located at the bottom of the camera’s mirror. The focusing module just calculates the phase values, on the basis of which it gives a command to perform focusing. In fact, modern central control valves have two mirrors, the second mirror serves to perform focusing through the focus module, in more detail here... Usually, a focusing module consists of a certain number of points (zones) on which focus analysis is performed. For 2012 Nikon has cameras with 3, 5, 11, 39, 51 focus points. The number of points affects the usability and focusing accuracy of the camera. You can read in more detail about focus systems on Nikon cameras.
The image shows the focus point where focus is achieved.
For working with focus points, the settings are responsible. AF-area mode.
- Automatic (auto-area AF), denoted as a white rectangle. Focuses on the closest subject using all available points.
- Dynamic (dynamic-area AF), focusing works on only one point, but takes into account information with adjacent points
- Single Point AF, focuses on only one point.
- Additional: 3D-tracking, or the choice of several zones. Such settings are not available on all cameras and often they are sub-functions of the dynamic focus area selection.
Points and focus method: AF-S single point
Important:
It’s very convenient to set the choice of the focus area method for amateur and advanced amateur cameras using a soft key (as I did on Nikon D90) This will allow you to quickly switch between focusing on a single point, automatic zone selection, dynamic mode, 3D tracking, etc. On Nikon professional and flagship cameras, a special zone switch is provided, which simplifies the work with professional equipment.
Attention:
in manual focus mode (M, MF), only one focus point is available.
Important:
A number of cameras can show in the image at which point or group of points the focus was performed. When viewing a picture, you can activate a mode in which the focus points are indicated by squares. This mode is supported only by professional cameras of the type D200, D300 and all full-frame. This is convenient because when setting up a quick preview of the image on a 1 to 1 scale, scaling is done exactly at the focus point at which the shooting was performed. This allows you to quickly check and select good sharp pictures. On advanced amateur and amateur cameras, to view the correct focusing, press the zoom button, and then use the selector to find the area in the image by which focus was performed. If your camera does not have a function that shows at which point the focus was performed, you can use ViewNX, which comes with the camera. Focus points can be displayed on the computer display. This is sometimes very helpful. In the sample photos, I just copied the work of ViewNX 2.
Important:
ViewNX only displays focus points on the computer when the picture was taken in AF-A, AF-S, AF-C modes with focus priority. If AF-S, AF-C with shutter priority is selected, the program will show focus points only if the camera was sure that the focus was correct.
Important:
Not all Nikon cameras allow you to change the area and type of focus when using the automatic modes (green mode). In modes P, A, S, M, everything can be customized to your taste.
Single point focus. AF-C focus mode
Focus point loop function
This function simply allows you to move the focus point in a circle, thus looping it around. When the rightmost point is selected, when you press the selector right, the focus point will go to the leftmost position. This function simply allows you to speed up the work when focusing on a single point.
Wide and standard focus area
In some cameras, you can choose a wide focus area, in contrast to the usual. A wide focus area reduces the number of focus points (zones). For example, for Nikon D200 With 11 focus points, 7 wide areas are created. Optically in the viewfinder, the zones will be larger in size than the dots. This sometimes simplifies the work with the camera.
Focus adjustment (alignment)
Sometimes the lens may malfunction and focus behind the subject (back) or in front of the focus object (front). In the people, such a lack of lenses is called back focus, front focus (back and front focus). Some cameras may adjust to the “wrong” lens. To do this, you need to find the focus adjustment in the camera and adjust the focus. Only have tuning Nikon D300, D300s, D500, D7000, D7100, D7200, D7500, D700, D750, D780, D800e, D800E, D810,D810a, D3, D3s, D3x, D4, D4s, D5, Df, D600, D610.
Focusing with Dark Lenses
Almost all Nikon cameras can focus without problems automatically only when using lenses with apertures up to F / 5.6. This is indicated in the camera manual. When using lenses with a smaller aperture, such as the Tamron 28-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 XR Di VC LD Asph (IF) Macro, it may be difficult to focus on the F / 6.3 aperture. Also, when using teleconvertersthat decrease the effective aperture value of the converter lens, focusing problems may also occur. Only a few cameras can focus without problems with F / 8.0 lenses. The limitation is related to the number of focus points that can work normally at F / 5.6-F / 8.0. You can find more details about which cameras and which focus points (zones) are used to work with 'dark' lenses here.
Single-point focusing with the Nikon D2Xs
Cross-shaped focus points (sensors) vs regular focus points
How many times I didn’t use one-point focusing, I did not find the difference in the quality of focusing using the cross-shaped point and the usual focusing point. Basically, cross-shaped focus points (sensors) are said to do a much better job of focusing than regular focus points. It is generally accepted that cross-shaped focus points are better at handling 'wire against sky' scenes.
Focus light
Nikon cameras have a special light bulb that helps focus in dark conditions. The light bulb simply illuminates the subject in focus and autofocus is easier to focus on. The backlight may not come on in AF-C mode. The focus light is often called the “spotlight” and is recommended to be turned off. Personally, I have the backlight turned off, but in poor lighting conditions I use a flash that has its own "red spot" with a long range. More details about the flashlight in photo tricks section.
Focus light
Important:
Some Nikon CLCs for some reason do not illuminate the subject with the AF-assist lamp in single-point focus mode, if a non-central point is selected. As far as I know, all Nikon cameras provide auxiliary illumination with a lamp in single-point focus mode, if the center focus point is selected.
Important:
Flagship Niko camerasn such as Nikon D1, Dh, D1x, D2h, D2x, D2hs, D2xs, D3, D3s, D3x, Df, D4, D4s, D5 do not have a focus assist lamp at all.
Interesting:
Nikon cameras can be implemented very simply focus trap.
AF-S single-point focusing mode
My experience and recommendations on focusing on Nikon cameras can be found here.
Is everything complicated and little understood?
Then just turn on AF-A and the icon with a rectangular focus area. Automation copes well with the main tasks. I recommend fully automatic focusing for home use. Sometimes fine-tuning the modes of the focus points does not justify itself.
Which Nikon camera focuses best?
Focus best Nikon D5 and Nikon D500 with the most advanced focus modules.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions:
Learning how to deal with focus modes will help you more accurately and quickly achieve the desired result. I strongly recommend experimenting with the modes and focus areas on your camera.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
The girls, of course, delivered with their questions.
I support the author of the capslite post: young ladies, you still have a million questions. But 999 of them are answered in the instructions for the camera. Read the instructions, poke around in the menu, sign up for courses for beginners - it will be much more useful for you - believe me.
The specifics for those who have a muddy flower on the lens 18-55: the lens has a minimum focusing distance. And she is rather big. As long as you "run over" the camera close to the subject, you will not be able to focus either automatically or manually. If you want to photograph spider bugs and other daisies, buy macro lenses or macro rings. Well, in this thread there are no statements like “my camera does not zoom in on a bird in the sky”. Sometimes new owners (and more) of DSLRs with a whale lens give out this too.
macro rings and macro lens, also that go to a Ferrari and then to Hyundai. with macro rings I ate. better than 150 mm macro 2,8, there are dragonflies and butterflies and yes macro flash will not hurt
Here's another technically strong article on Nikon's focusing system - http://photokaravan.com/Blogs/Ollivander/602
Yes, I liked it too
NIKON D90, lens 50mm 1.4 G. I don’t understand why, it always focuses crookedly. I put one point at a time - in the center, I shoot, the focus is somewhere on the side, can you help with advice?
Hello. Tell me on the f 5200 photo, the lens can be advanced and how? I only do it manually
Tin. Do you need this camera? Buy a "soap dish" with such questions.
Has improved. I guess I’ve got it :-) if I took my D3100 with a kit in my hands, I didn’t write about the price. The reaction is normal when switching from a digital compact. Now, having bought helios - I also see through the zoom with my feet. :-). Success to all newcomers - don't get it right ..
So, Marina, run to read a book from the camera and from the lens. Exactly that you are pulling, most likely, or the focus which you, with the given knowledge, should not touch at all, but use automation, or the zoom, thanks to which you can zoom in and out of objects. The zoom in optics of this class is not automatic, so after using the camera to photograph distant objects - yes, in order not to stick out, you have to "shove" the zoom back manually. In general, after purchasing even such optics, I strongly advise you to familiarize yourself with the basics of photographic skill and the options for your camera, otherwise you simply do not need it. Remember one thing - as a beginner, you can shoot garbage with the most expensive camera, while being a professional, you can shoot beautiful things with the cheapest soap dish. In general, Google will help you.
The main contingent of users of SLR cameras is for some reason the girls who switched to them from soap boxes, because she looks more solid. I remember one madam asked how she could make an approximation on the D7000 and whale 18-105, the zoom lever could not be found. And at the same time they don’t need something simple, give it more expensive!
Hello Arkady! A good site your prompted me. Maybe you can tell me
Recently bought a Nikon D90. My first SLR. The device pleases, but what excited me: when focusing on bright objects on a darker background (for example, a photo of a table with a bright white monitor screen, or a wall of a dark room with a window during the day, a light in a dark room) along with the ones that light up in red on the screen viewfinder focus point, the viewfinder screen itself outside the bright object "blushes" at the time of "focus point firing". If you remove a bright object (for example, turn off the monitor, turn around and focus on the wall of the room without a bright window), then when focusing, only the focus points and lines (those that are initially black) are highlighted in red, the rest of the viewfinder screen remains without color changes.
Should there be this phenomenon (reddening of the viewfinder screen beyond the limits of a bright object at the moment of focusing on such types of objects?) Or is it a viewfinder breakdown? After all, redness is detected only when shooting bright objects.
This makes itself felt auxiliary lighting, its intensity in different lighting is different. It highlights not only points, but also lines in the JVI.
Thanks a lot for your answer! I also want to thank for the site. Excellent work, a lot of useful and interesting information. I feel hung on him for a long time)
Thank you for your reply!
Hello Arkady! I initially set in AF-C mode, as in AF-S, focus priority. Now I’ve read your article and the question arose, excuse me, if I’m stupid, I don’t understand the meaning of the priority of the descent, if in this case a sharp shot is possible? ((I shoot almost always on AF-C. What do I need to know in order to shoot in Release Priority?
I need practice.
Hi, did you know that on the d610, if you press the button to remove the lens, the camera shutter will work even later if you didn’t get too sharp ?! If the priority is in the settings for focus, then the shutter does not work until you focus, but if you hold down the lens lock button, click anyway)))
thank you)
Hello Arkady!
Thank you for your efforts, for the most understandable blog on Nikon!
The question is this: a carcass with a "screwdriver" and a lens with a motor. To switch to manual focus mode, is it enough to simply turn the switch on the lens to the “M” position? Or, do you need to switch to the “M” mode on the carcass too?
In the manual (be it wrong) to the camera it is written that, in order to avoid damage to the camera, you must switch to “M” mode on the latter. Or is it from the category of "drying cats in the microwave"? For on the second page of the comments you objected to Alexander. And if your objection has a place to be, then, if I understand correctly, the camera is "on the drum" in what position its mode switch is, because a lens with an autofocus motor is screwed onto it. And the camera will automatically turn off the “screwdriver” when using such a lens.
Is it so? I'm afraid to damage the camera. I hope for your answer.
Thank you!
With different lenses in different ways. For example, on a Nikon AF 85mm 1: 1.4D lens, just switch on the lens itself. And on the Nikon AF 180mm 1: 2.8D, you need to put it on the M lens and on the M camera.
Clear. It’s better not to risk it again and follow Alexander’s advice.
Thank you very much!
Can you please tell me if I understand correctly - a fine correction of autofocus by 1 unit in the menu corresponds to a shift of the focus point by 1 mm - i.e. if for a 10 mm FF or BF lens, it is necessary to set the correction to + -10, respectively, and if the FF or BF of the lens is more than 2 cm (20 mm), then the correction range of + -20 will not be enough and the lens must be definitely carried for adjustment?
Please tell me, on the Nikon 7100 only one focus point is highlighted which can be changed by joystick to another, but all the points do not highlight, how to remove it ????????????????
Hello, I just can't achieve focus in live view on Nikon D3200 (green frame and everything is blurred on the matrix) through the visor, everything is fine. The device is new under warranty - is it a defect and is it worth going to the service center?
Hello, Arkady. I read the comments with interest, especially about autofocus (phase) errors. also faced such a problem. Namely, from a distance of 2-3 meters, the 35mm 1.8g lens on the D5100 smears more than half of the frames in the back. I focus with both the central and lateral points. The camera is both on a tripod and in the hands. at first I thought that the shutter speed was too long, but I made sure that at shutter speeds of 1/50 and shorter (up to 1/200) the situation repeats itself. The effect is noticeable at aperture 1.8 - 4. By the way, I like the picture from the lens, but the autofocus is a tape measure. because of this, the full-length portrait is 90% blurry.
On the previous page you wrote that:
“When the apertures are wide, the focusing system is difficult to get sharp on distant subjects.”
What do you mean in more detail? As far as I understand the depth of field at the same aperture grows with the distance of the object from the camera. Why difficulties? Which diaphragm is considered “open”?
Assuming you can focus manually, of course, I tried that. You also write about this in the article: "This is a vital method of focusing for advanced photographers and professionals." But the result is even worse than in automatic mode. In the viewfinder, the details of the object are simply not visible (as I understood from the forums and reviews, it is too small and dark for this). And the lens does not dispose for precise focusing. It turns out that a very insignificant change in the position of the ring transfers the zone of sharpness to half a meter-meter. In this case, the green sharpness indicator (circle) in the viewfinder glows affably confirming focusing accuracy.
There is, of course, Live Viev, but then it is not at all clear why buy a reflex camera ... In addition, the camera trembles with outstretched arms much more than when focusing on the viewfinder.
I also read that the quality of autofocus depends on the lighting, but these are only discussions on the forums. Maybe this is the topic of a separate article?
Total questions: Is autofocus misses a camera or lens problem? Does it make sense to buy aperture optics for Nikon d5100 (still close the diaphragm) or do I need a more expensive camera? Let's say on d7100 whether this lens will stop making mistakes and whether the viewfinder allows focusing manually when shooting at high-aperture optics. Maybe the D600? There is no way to try all the options. Tell me? I hope for help.
tell me nikon 5100 in ASM modes the shutter has stopped working and the green indicator in the window blinks. maybe the settings THANKS
Add to the column Which camera focuses best on everyone and the Nikon D7100. He, too, with the same focusing system
Thanks. Helpful information. I didn’t know about the AF-f video, now I use
I am learning to take pictures. I have a nikon d7000. Tell me why in the life view mode in a dark room, photos turn out muddy blurry without sharpness? It seems that the lens is trying to tune in, but it does not work. Thank you in advance
Hello! Please help me to solve the problem with autofocusing on the nikon d7000. I am YOU with this technique and I am just beginning to understand and master. The question is this: AF modes A and C cannot be adjusted, and it is also not possible to select a number of focusing points. When choosing a mode, according to the instructions, only AF-S and AF-F options come out. In the menu, in the autofocusing tab, all the columns are inactive and “This parameter is not available at the current values”. I read that it is possible to damage the camera if the lens and the camera have different AF and M values, but I have AF and A. I may have changed something in the settings, but when the user settings are reset through the menu, nothing changes. I would be grateful for help, advice, useful links to solve this problem and, in general, to learn how to work with equipment)
Put the camera in one of the modes P, A, S, M.
Below is the answer to other questions. For example, about choosing the number of focus points ...
One question is tormenting, is it possible to check the operation of the motor in the camera responsible for focusing (I'm talking about a screwdriver), if there is no lens?
Hello! please help me figure it out, Nikon D3100 autofocus focuses only when pointing up at the ceiling in the viewfinder eyepiece mode, and when switching the view on the display it normally takes pictures in all positions. maybe someone came across, thanks in advance
Hello! Tell me. I noticed that in Live View, the sharpness is an order of magnitude better than through the peephole at the center point or all 39 (d7000 Nikon camera, 50 1.8 g lens) are normal. or is there something wrong with the lens or camera?
Good afternoon!!! Maybe a really super stupid question. Where is the focusing speed faster - in cameras with a “screwdriver” or in a camera without, but the lens is naturally with a motor? And will a motorized lens work on a camera with an "overturn"
It all depends on the lens used. AF-S, AF-I lenses (and similar from third-party manufacturers) work without problems on all cameras, including cameras with a focus motor. How else?
The intellectual majority burn with arc welding, and sometimes napalm. Girls write more !!!
As they say, there are two infinities in the world - one of them is human stupidity)