When photographing, along with the settings excerpts, aperture, ISO and image quality, one of the most important parameters for a SLR camera is the correct setting of the focus mode and method.
Focus on Nikon
Nikon has many focus options with different combinations of focus modes and focus areas. Usually focusing on modern Nikon DSLR cameras occurs when pressing the shutter button halfwayor by pressing the dedicated AF-ON button.
Focus Modes:
'AF-S' or 'S' (Auto Focus Single) - focus mode camera, in which the camera, when the shutter button is pressed halfway, focuses on focus, and when a successful aim is achieved, it stops focusing. Once pressed - once focused... In the manuals for cameras, the mode is often translated as'Single AF Tracking'. To change the aiming accuracy, release the button and press it again. The mode is suitable for static scenes.
Focus mode switch Nikon D700. The same is available on cameras Nikon D300, D300s, D200, D1, D2, D3 etc.
'AF-C' or 'C' (Auto Focus Continuous) - tracking continuous (continuous) mode of automatic focus of the camera (in the instructions it is often translated as'Continuous AF Tracking'). When the shutter button is pressed halfway, the camera constantly tries to focus correctly. Pressed the button - and the camera constantly monitors the focus. A very useful mode when subjects are moving or composition changes.
AF-A (Auto Focus Automatic) - automatic focus mode selection camera. In this mode, the camera can choose to work in AF-S or AF-C mode. Basically, all amateurs shoot in AF-A mode and often do not even suspect the presence of other modes. I noticed that the mode AF-A more often behaves like the AF-S mode.
AF-A, AF-C, AF-S mode selector on Nikon D90
AF (auto focus) - general auto focus mode. The mode is enabled on the camera itself, not to be confused with the 'A' mode on the lens itself.
AF focus mode switch (lever) on the camera
MF (manual focusing) - manual focus camera... The mode is activated using the camera menu. Usually only cameras without a focus motor have this mode. In this mode, you need to manually rotate the focusing ring on the lens to achieve correct focusing. On the one hand: manual focus can be difficult for beginners, on the other hand: it is A vital focus method for advanced photographers and professionals. Manual focus on the CZK is one of the major advantages over conventional digital cameras (soap dishes). Very often, the automation of the camera and the lens cannot determine how to focus correctly and to achieve optimal focus, just switch to manual mode and point the camera manually for precise focus.
Focus Mode Switch Using the Nikon D5100 Camera Menu
M (M - manual focusing) - manual focus on the lens or on the camera. Same as MF. Attention: Not all lenses have a focus mode switch, such as a lens Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor It has no focus switches at all. It's important: in order to switch to manual focus mode MF with a lens that does not have a focus mode switch, you need to switch the focus lever to mode M on a camera with a focus motor; on a camera without a focus motor, only the MF mode with such a lens will always be available. About different types of lenses and cameras is described in detail in the section Nikon Lens Differences.
Lens with focus mode switch and lens without focus mode switch
A (Auto) - auto focus mode lens. In this position of the focus switch on the lens, only automatic focusing with the lens is available. Attention: not all lenses have such a focus operation switch, for example, the switch on the lens is shown below Nikon 85mm f / 1.4D AF Nikkor.
Example of a manual or auto focus lens
M / A (autofocus with manual override) - automatic focusing lens with priority of manual control. Attention: not all lenses have this focus mode, the example below shows the switch on the lens Nikon 85mm f / 1.4GN AF-S Nikkor. This mode implies auto focus with instant manual focus adjustmentand the lens does not need to be set to focus mode 'M'. You can read more about this mode. here.
This is how the switch of focus modes on the lens with support for MA-M mode looks
AF-F (Full Time Servo Auto Focus) - continuous tracking focus mode for video shooting. Attention: This focus mode is only available on modern cameras with the ability to record video. This mode does not work when taking pictures. Usually you cannot find the mode in the menu AF-F, it is only available in live view when entering the info menu. This is a very useful mode, it allows you to record with constant auto focus. This mode is available only in cameras starting from Nikon D3100.
AF-F mode for shooting video
Important: due to the fact that all Nikon CZKs have different controls and different menus, each camera switches its focus mode in its own way. In the general case, M, AF, S, C is responsible for choosing the focus mode switch near lens mount for cameras with a focus motor and settings in the menu of the camera itself. For non-powered cameras, the focus mode is selected only through the camera menu. Different combinations of settings for different types of cameras are shown in the diagrams above.
Damn important: if you use a camera with a focus motor, and on it is a lens with auto focus but without a focus motor and without a focus mode switch on the lens itself, for example, a bunch Nikon D90 (camera with motor) and lens Nikon 85mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor (without focusing motor and without focusing mode switch) - for manual focusing, be sure to switch the lever near the camera mount to the 'M' position, otherwise when focusing manually can damage the camera.
A number of cameras from Nikon have a built-in rangefinder (focus indicator in the viewfinder). The rangefinder in the viewfinder can tell in which direction you need to rotate the focus ring on the lens in order to achieve the correct focus. The range finder works both with automatic and manual focusing. Rangefinder is in the cameras Nikon D3100, D5100, D700 etc. In general, on older lenses that could not focus automatically, there is a special focusing scale, which indicates the distance to the focusing object. It's a pity when using the old AI-S optics on younger Nikon cameras, the rangefinder refuses to work. With manual optics, the rangefinder only works on older Nikon cameras.
The principle of operation of the electronic rangefinder
On any Nikon CLC camera, the green circle in the viewfinder in the lower left corner of the viewfinder is responsible for the accuracy of focusing on the selected focus point. When it is on, this means that the sharpness at the selected point is normal. The green dot (focus confirmation point) is an indispensable tool when working with old class lenses AI-S and similar, for example, such as Nikon 100mm F / 2.8 Series E MF
A green dot that confirms correct focus
Advanced cameras have fine-tuning the focus: Release priority and Focus priority in AF-C and AF-S mode.
Usually in AF-C mode, the choice is:
- FPS frequency - the shutter release is more important for the camera than the focusing accuracy, this is called release priority
- FPS + AF frequency - the shutter is more important for the camera, but it also takes into account the focusing accuracy (not available on all cameras)
- Focus - the focus is more important for the camera, not the shooting speed.
Using the priority setting, you can set what is most important when shooting - focus, and then release the shutter, or release the shutter and ignore focus. I set AF-S priority to focus priority mode, AF-C to shutter priority mode.
Setting Focus Priorities
Important Note:
Younger Nikon cameras do not support shutter priority mode (release priority). The exact list of cameras, as well as other useful information on limiting priorities, can be found in the section “Unpleasant restriction of Nikon entry-level cameras and its solution", As well as in the section"Restructuring AF-S, AF-C modes when working with an external flash. Features Focus Focus".
Live View
live view allows you to turn a complex SLR camera into an ordinary soap box, that is, you can focus (photograph) using the large display of the camera itself, and not through the optical viewfinder (peephole). In Live View, focus is based on contrast. This method is much slower for normal focusing through the optical viewfinder. Moreover, the difference in focusing speed in Live View mode and through the optical viewfinder can be tens of times. Some cameras have two focusing modes in Live View mode. The first one is “tripod” focusing, it is done as on conventional digital cameras (dichotomously, in contrast). Second, you can frame the frame through Live View, but when you press the shutter button to focus, the camera turns off Live View, focuses through the usual focusing system, and then turns on Live View again or takes a picture. For a simple description of how Live View works, see Dmitry Evtifeev’s blog.
How Live View Works
Important:
camera Nikon D700 и Nikon D300 in Live View and Tripod sub-modes, focus only when AF-ON button is pressed.
Focus Points and Focus Areas
Each camera has a different number of points and areas through which it can focus. A special module is responsible for focusing in the camera, which is located at the bottom of the camera’s mirror. The focusing module just calculates the phase values, on the basis of which it gives a command to perform focusing. In fact, modern central control valves have two mirrors, the second mirror serves to perform focusing through the focus module, in more detail here... Usually, a focusing module consists of a certain number of points (zones) on which focus analysis is performed. For 2012 Nikon has cameras with 3, 5, 11, 39, 51 focus points. The number of points affects the usability and focusing accuracy of the camera. You can read in more detail about focus systems on Nikon cameras.
The image shows the focus point where focus is achieved.
For working with focus points, the settings are responsible. AF-area mode.
- Automatic (auto-area AF), denoted as a white rectangle. Focuses on the closest subject using all available points.
- Dynamic (dynamic-area AF), focusing works on only one point, but takes into account information with adjacent points
- Single Point AF, focuses on only one point.
- Additional: 3D-tracking, or the choice of several zones. Such settings are not available on all cameras and often they are sub-functions of the dynamic focus area selection.
Points and focus method: AF-S single point
Important:
It’s very convenient to set the choice of the focus area method for amateur and advanced amateur cameras using a soft key (as I did on Nikon D90) This will allow you to quickly switch between focusing on a single point, automatic zone selection, dynamic mode, 3D tracking, etc. On Nikon professional and flagship cameras, a special zone switch is provided, which simplifies the work with professional equipment.
Attention:
in manual focus mode (M, MF), only one focus point is available.
Important:
A number of cameras can show in the image at which point or group of points the focus was performed. When viewing a picture, you can activate a mode in which the focus points are indicated by squares. This mode is supported only by professional cameras of the type D200, D300 and all full-frame. This is convenient because when setting up a quick preview of the image on a 1 to 1 scale, scaling is done exactly at the focus point at which the shooting was performed. This allows you to quickly check and select good sharp pictures. On advanced amateur and amateur cameras, to view the correct focusing, press the zoom button, and then use the selector to find the area in the image by which focus was performed. If your camera does not have a function that shows at which point the focus was performed, you can use ViewNX, which comes with the camera. Focus points can be displayed on the computer display. This is sometimes very helpful. In the sample photos, I just copied the work of ViewNX 2.
Important:
ViewNX only displays focus points on the computer when the picture was taken in AF-A, AF-S, AF-C modes with focus priority. If AF-S, AF-C with shutter priority is selected, the program will show focus points only if the camera was sure that the focus was correct.
Important:
Not all Nikon cameras allow you to change the area and type of focus when using the automatic modes (green mode). In modes P, A, S, M, everything can be customized to your taste.
Single point focus. AF-C focus mode
Focus point loop function
This function simply allows you to move the focus point in a circle, thus looping it around. When the rightmost point is selected, when you press the selector right, the focus point will go to the leftmost position. This function simply allows you to speed up the work when focusing on a single point.
Wide and standard focus area
In some cameras, you can choose a wide focus area, in contrast to the usual. A wide focus area reduces the number of focus points (zones). For example, for Nikon D200 With 11 focus points, 7 wide areas are created. Optically in the viewfinder, the zones will be larger in size than the dots. This sometimes simplifies the work with the camera.
Focus adjustment (alignment)
Sometimes the lens may malfunction and focus behind the subject (back) or in front of the focus object (front). In the people, such a lack of lenses is called back focus, front focus (back and front focus). Some cameras may adjust to the “wrong” lens. To do this, you need to find the focus adjustment in the camera and adjust the focus. Only have tuning Nikon D300, D300s, D500, D7000, D7100, D7200, D7500, D700, D750, D780, D800e, D800E, D810,D810a, D3, D3s, D3x, D4, D4s, D5, Df, D600, D610.
Focusing with Dark Lenses
Almost all Nikon cameras can focus without problems automatically only when using lenses with apertures up to F / 5.6. This is indicated in the camera manual. When using lenses with a smaller aperture, such as the Tamron 28-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 XR Di VC LD Asph (IF) Macro, it may be difficult to focus on the F / 6.3 aperture. Also, when using teleconvertersthat decrease the effective aperture value of the converter lens, focusing problems may also occur. Only a few cameras can focus without problems with F / 8.0 lenses. The limitation is related to the number of focus points that can work normally at F / 5.6-F / 8.0. You can find more details about which cameras and which focus points (zones) are used to work with 'dark' lenses here.
Single-point focusing with the Nikon D2Xs
Cross-shaped focus points (sensors) vs regular focus points
How many times I didn’t use one-point focusing, I did not find the difference in the quality of focusing using the cross-shaped point and the usual focusing point. Basically, cross-shaped focus points (sensors) are said to do a much better job of focusing than regular focus points. It is generally accepted that cross-shaped focus points are better at handling 'wire against sky' scenes.
Focus light
Nikon cameras have a special light bulb that helps focus in dark conditions. The light bulb simply illuminates the subject in focus and autofocus is easier to focus on. The backlight may not come on in AF-C mode. The focus light is often called the “spotlight” and is recommended to be turned off. Personally, I have the backlight turned off, but in poor lighting conditions I use a flash that has its own "red spot" with a long range. More details about the flashlight in photo tricks section.
Focus light
Important:
Some Nikon CLCs for some reason do not illuminate the subject with the AF-assist lamp in single-point focus mode, if a non-central point is selected. As far as I know, all Nikon cameras provide auxiliary illumination with a lamp in single-point focus mode, if the center focus point is selected.
Important:
Flagship Niko camerasn such as Nikon D1, Dh, D1x, D2h, D2x, D2hs, D2xs, D3, D3s, D3x, Df, D4, D4s, D5 do not have a focus assist lamp at all.
Interesting:
Nikon cameras can be implemented very simply focus trap.
AF-S single-point focusing mode
My experience and recommendations on focusing on Nikon cameras can be found here.
Is everything complicated and little understood?
Then just turn on AF-A and the icon with a rectangular focus area. Automation copes well with the main tasks. I recommend fully automatic focusing for home use. Sometimes fine-tuning the modes of the focus points does not justify itself.
Which Nikon camera focuses best?
Focus best Nikon D5 and Nikon D500 with the most advanced focus modules.
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Conclusions:
Learning how to deal with focus modes will help you more accurately and quickly achieve the desired result. I strongly recommend experimenting with the modes and focus areas on your camera.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Thank you very much for your articles !!!
Do not forget about helping the project!
Arkady, hello, I have such a question for you, I know that you used the D200 camera for a long time, you did not notice that the focus sensor almost coincided with the mark in the viewfinder, otherwise I checked the focus accuracy of 50 mm 1.8D and noticed it’s such a thing that if you take a picture of a ruler when it’s lying and you put the camera at 45 degrees and take pictures, the focus shows a 9mm front, and if the ruler is on its side, then 100%
I still use it, I have not noticed this, but in general with other focus points there is a suspicion of non-linearity of coincidence.
thanks, I'll try in different positions, if I notice something extraordinary - I'll let you know :)
My question is: D300s + 18-200VR. So, I’m shooting with normal lighting, the subject falls into the square of the focus points. I press the button, the focus starts and the points sometimes scatter along only one half of the subject. It’s clear that with such focusing, half of the picture is fuzzy. Sometimes this is not. How to make it (and is it possible) to somehow force the focus points to cover the maximum of space, and not to line up the way they want?
This comes from the fact that the camera focuses on the closest details of the object, and those further. will not fall into the focus area and / or the depth of field zone.
Thanks! And how to deal with it? On film, such a question never arose, but on digital it sometimes turns out that a whole series of pictures immediately goes to the basket. In this case, until you look through the computer, you will not see. Worst of all, it's not certainty ...
The film is exactly the same principle.
And another question. Is it possible to view the captured images on the computer with the designation of the focus area that were at the time of shooting? I have never used special software from NIKON, maybe there is one?
Yes there is, Capture NX
Greetings Arkady! I bought Nikon 3100. Don’t help me set it up so that I get great photos, not blurry, bright, etc. etc. If you can send a link. I will be grateful.
Take photographs for 2-3 months every day in order to get used to and understand the properties of the SLR. For quick results, Auto mode will help.
Good evening Arkady. Tell me How to make a function for Nikon d3100. Example: I photograph a flower and I want it to be well focused and visible, and the rest of the background is blurry so that it is.?
Hello. My article will help you with this. https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/01/dof-best-lens-photo/
Good day, Arkady!
Can I read more about the wide focus area, and the usual on the D700? What are you talking about?
I would like to increase the accuracy of the autofocus, it seems to me that he often lies ...
There is no wide focus area in the D700.
In what focus mode and how many points to choose when shooting a person in 3/4 height ???
In any convenient mode, from automatic, to one point, depending on needs. Very often focusing on a single point in the eyes helps.
look at this situation ... I need to shoot a girl, or rather a 3/4 height portrait. I shoot in AF-s one point at a time, focus on the girl's face (I press the shutter halfway down) and then compose the frame as it suits me ... (why is not the face always in focus ??? .... shutter speed 1/100 aperture 2 ... external flash ...
maybe there is some other alternative focus option?
Because when focusing and the next rearrangement of the frame, focusing is lost due to the movement of the depth of field. Try composing the frame, then select the focus point that is on the area where you want to focus on, and then take the picture.
hou wondering about the grip I didn't know that it also gets confused when composing))) just if you first compose the frame and then choose the focus point, it takes a lot of time and your hands will get tired every time holding the camera and using your thumb to point the point at the object ... are there any alternatives?
An alternative may be more closed aperture values, wider lenses, which have more flu, Live View
I will try thanks))) and another question for static portraits is the best af-s mode? I just always shot in af-a and recently read that S mode is more suitable for static scenes.
In some ways, it is better due to the fact that the descent is carried out only after precise focusing is made.
Hello! Quote: “when setting up a quick preview of a picture at a scale of 1 to 1, the zoom is done exactly at the focus point at which the shooting was performed.” In my case, on the D300, zooming in the quick preview after shooting, and in normal viewing of all frames, is performed strictly in the center of the frame, and not at the focus mark on the frame. What could be the reason?
When shooting, more than one focus point was used.
Then I don’t understand why this happens when using single-band AF with manual point selection, with AF-C and AF-S?
When you press the button for viewing the captured frames (or quick preview right after shooting), a frame with a focus point designation is displayed on the screen. Further, when you press the "+" button, the frame is scaled strictly in the center. According to the above information, I understand that the scaling should occur with a shift, according to the focus point?
Yes, it should happen as directed. Just checked on the D200 and D700, if you use focus on one point, then scaling is performed in that area.
Then the choice of dooms is not great :-) Either the D300 is what it is (which I strongly doubt), or it is turned off somewhere in the settings ...
Found. Control-> center button of the multi-selector-> view-zoom mode, allows you to set the center button, in playback mode, zoom (changeable) by the focus mark when shooting.
Fine :)
Recently, he said that the pros use the af-on button (or the reassigned af / ae) to focus. Is it worth relearning with the classic half-focus method of focusing? http://www.club-nikon.ru/forum/topic/56430-фокусировка-кнопкой-ae-laf-l/
If you see improvements in this, then you can relearn. I sometimes use AF-ON, but switching the menu also takes time.
I came across an instruction on creating a focal trap in the internet: http://www.afanas.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=682
Quote: AF-ON (one of the functions of the AE-L / AF-L button) may
can also be used to create a “focal
traps ":
1. Assign the AF-ON function to the AE-L / AF-L button.
2. Set autofocus to Single Servo
3. Set the autofocus zone to Single Area (not
dynamic)
4. If there is an autofocus switch on the lens,
then it should be switched to A
5. Focus on a certain distance
6. Compose the frame, press the shutter button,
the camera will fire when in the selected focus area
an object will appear
Hello!
Wanted to set up a focus trap on my Nikon D800
I don’t understand, something with the camera settings, I set everything up as described in the instructions for the focal trap, not in any way ... for example, not in focus, that is, the shutter still cuts down on a blurry frame anyway, although the shutter button is set to focus priority !!!
Hello, Arkady. Your site is just super, I hope it will continue to develop by leaps and bounds. I have such a question, maybe not a little in the subject, but nonetheless. How convenient / inconvenient and is it possible to always use manual focus at all? I mean the complete set of the camera without a motor and an AF-type lens, also without a motor (we will say the budget option). How realistic is it to shoot? Do you have any such experience? If possible, give examples where manual focus cannot be used (for example, dynamic scenes, poor lighting, wedding photos, indoor photos, etc.). I understand that it is tolerant to use manual focus for portraits, landscapes, and macro. Is it so? Thank you very much for such work.
If you have a camera, turn off auto focus and find out how it is.
Dynamic scenes can be shot on a manual if it is a very wide angle, and so the longer the focal angle, the more difficult it is.
poor lighting - Live View is possible, but difficult
Wedding photos - for a number of shots it is even easier to shoot with manual focus, but in general, the wedding should be automatic
indoor photo, etc.
The answer to whether you can always use manual focus, you must answer for yourself, as different people will find it convenient to use one or another method in different ways.
Hello Arkady!
I have an unusual problem - autofocus on the Nikon D300s disappears.
I put different lenses (4 pcs.) - the problem remained. I cleaned the contacts, reset the settings in the camera, took out the battery, looked at the fine settings in the camera - it does not help.
But the most interesting, autofocus appears from time to time, and then when you turn it on again, it may disappear again.
Only focus disappears or does the camera not see the lens at all?
Arkady, explain to me - I have a d7000 and a 18-105 lens - I go to the menu - autofocus settings - I only have AF Live view / video active - but how to enable other settings to adjust them? I press the button near the lens mount only AF-S AF-F changes
Front selector determines method, rear type AF-S AF-C
Yes, that's not what I understood - only AF-S AF-F changes, but how to set AF-C? and how to make the settings available in the menu?
AF-F mode does not exist. How to adjust the focus is described on page 91 in the camera manual.
I don’t know, but I have in the menu of user settings - autofocus - only AF Live view \ video is active - AF-F autofocus mode is selected in it - CONSTANT CONTINUOUS AF and AF-S - frame-by-frame AF and there is nothing more
How to make auto-focus settings available? except AF Live view \ video?
Just go to another section of the menu.
But how are they inaccessible?