When photographing, along with the settings excerpts, aperture, ISO and image quality, one of the most important parameters for a SLR camera is the correct setting of the focus mode and method.
Nikon has many focus options with different combinations of focus modes and focus areas. Usually focusing on modern Nikon DSLR cameras occurs when pressing the shutter button halfwayor by pressing the dedicated AF-ON button.
Focus Modes:
'AF-S' or 'S' (Auto Focus Single) - focus mode camera, in which the camera, when the shutter button is pressed halfway, focuses on focus, and when a successful aim is achieved, it stops focusing. Once pressed - once focused... In the manuals for cameras, the mode is often translated as'Single AF Tracking'. To change the aiming accuracy, release the button and press it again. The mode is suitable for static scenes.
'AF-C' or 'C' (Auto Focus Continuous) - tracking continuous (continuous) mode of automatic focus of the camera (in the instructions it is often translated as'Continuous AF Tracking'). When the shutter button is pressed halfway, the camera constantly tries to focus correctly. Pressed the button - and the camera constantly monitors the focus. A very useful mode when subjects are moving or composition changes.
AF-A (Auto Focus Automatic) - automatic focus mode selection camera. In this mode, the camera can choose to work in AF-S or AF-C mode. Basically, all amateurs shoot in AF-A mode and often do not even suspect the presence of other modes. I noticed that the mode AF-A more often behaves like the AF-S mode.
AF (auto focus) - general auto focus mode. The mode is enabled on the camera itself, not to be confused with the 'A' mode on the lens itself.
MF (manual focusing) - manual focus camera... The mode is activated using the camera menu. Usually only cameras without a focus motor have this mode. In this mode, you need to manually rotate the focusing ring on the lens to achieve correct focusing. On the one hand: manual focus can be difficult for beginners, on the other hand: it is A vital focus method for advanced photographers and professionals. Manual focus on the CZK is one of the major advantages over conventional digital cameras (soap dishes). Very often, the automation of the camera and the lens cannot determine how to focus correctly and to achieve optimal focus, just switch to manual mode and point the camera manually for precise focus.
M (M - manual focusing) - manual focus on the lens or on the camera. Same as MF. Attention: Not all lenses have a focus mode switch, such as a lens Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor It has no focus switches at all. It's important: in order to switch to manual focus mode MF with a lens that does not have a focus mode switch, you need to switch the focus lever to mode M on a camera with a focus motor; on a camera without a focus motor, only the MF mode with such a lens will always be available. About different types of lenses and cameras is described in detail in the section Nikon Lens Differences.
A (Auto) - auto focus mode lens. In this position of the focus switch on the lens, only automatic focusing with the lens is available. Attention: not all lenses have such a focus operation switch, for example, the switch on the lens is shown below Nikon 85mm f / 1.4D AF Nikkor.
M / A (autofocus with manual override) - automatic focusing lens with priority of manual control. Attention: not all lenses have this focus mode, the example below shows the switch on the lens Nikon 85mm f / 1.4GN AF-S Nikkor. This mode implies auto focus with instant manual focus adjustmentand the lens does not need to be set to focus mode 'M'. You can read more about this mode. here.
AF-F (Full Time Servo Auto Focus) - continuous tracking focus mode for video shooting. Attention: This focus mode is only available on modern cameras with the ability to record video. This mode does not work when taking pictures. Usually you cannot find the mode in the menu AF-F, it is only available in live view when entering the info menu. This is a very useful mode, it allows you to record with constant auto focus. This mode is available only in cameras starting from Nikon D3100.
Important: due to the fact that all Nikon CZKs have different controls and different menus, each camera switches its focus mode in its own way. In the general case, M, AF, S, C is responsible for choosing the focus mode switch near lens mount for cameras with a focus motor and settings in the menu of the camera itself. For non-powered cameras, the focus mode is selected only through the camera menu. Different combinations of settings for different types of cameras are shown in the diagrams above.
Damn important: if you use a camera with a focus motor, and on it is a lens with auto focus but without a focus motor and without a focus mode switch on the lens itself, for example, a bunch Nikon D90 (camera with motor) and lens Nikon 85mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor (without focusing motor and without focusing mode switch) - for manual focusing, be sure to switch the lever near the camera mount to the 'M' position, otherwise when focusing manually can damage the camera.
A number of cameras from Nikon have a built-in rangefinder (focus indicator in the viewfinder). The rangefinder in the viewfinder can tell in which direction you need to rotate the focus ring on the lens in order to achieve the correct focus. The range finder works both with automatic and manual focusing. Rangefinder is in the cameras Nikon D3100, D5100, D700 etc. In general, on older lenses that could not focus automatically, there is a special focusing scale, which indicates the distance to the focusing object. It's a pity when using the old AI-S optics on younger Nikon cameras, the rangefinder refuses to work. With manual optics, the rangefinder only works on older Nikon cameras.
On any Nikon CLC camera, the green circle in the viewfinder in the lower left corner of the viewfinder is responsible for the accuracy of focusing on the selected focus point. When it is on, this means that the sharpness at the selected point is normal. The green dot (focus confirmation point) is an indispensable tool when working with old class lenses AI-S and similar, for example, such as Nikon 100mm F / 2.8 Series E MF
Advanced cameras have fine-tuning the focus: Release priority and Focus priority in AF-C and AF-S mode.
Usually in AF-C mode, the choice is:
- FPS frequency - the shutter release is more important for the camera than the focusing accuracy, this is called release priority
- FPS + AF frequency - the shutter is more important for the camera, but it also takes into account the focusing accuracy (not available on all cameras)
- Focus - the focus is more important for the camera, not the shooting speed.
Using the priority setting, you can set what is most important when shooting - focus, and then release the shutter, or release the shutter and ignore focus. I set AF-S priority to focus priority mode, AF-C to shutter priority mode.
Important Note:
Younger Nikon cameras do not support shutter priority mode (release priority). The exact list of cameras, as well as other useful information on limiting priorities, can be found in the section “Unpleasant restriction of Nikon entry-level cameras and its solution", As well as in the section"Restructuring AF-S, AF-C modes when working with an external flash. Features Focus Focus".
Live View
live view allows you to turn a complex SLR camera into an ordinary soap box, that is, you can focus (photograph) using the large display of the camera itself, and not through the optical viewfinder (peephole). In Live View, focus is based on contrast. This method is much slower for normal focusing through the optical viewfinder. Moreover, the difference in focusing speed in Live View mode and through the optical viewfinder can be tens of times. Some cameras have two focusing modes in Live View mode. The first one is “tripod” focusing, it is done as on conventional digital cameras (dichotomously, in contrast). Second, you can frame the frame through Live View, but when you press the shutter button to focus, the camera turns off Live View, focuses through the usual focusing system, and then turns on Live View again or takes a picture. For a simple description of how Live View works, see Dmitry Evtifeev’s blog.
Important:
camera Nikon D700 и Nikon D300 in Live View and Tripod sub-modes, focus only when AF-ON button is pressed.
Focus Points and Focus Areas
Each camera has a different number of points and areas through which it can focus. A special module is responsible for focusing in the camera, which is located at the bottom of the camera’s mirror. The focusing module just calculates the phase values, on the basis of which it gives a command to perform focusing. In fact, modern central control valves have two mirrors, the second mirror serves to perform focusing through the focus module, in more detail here... Usually, a focusing module consists of a certain number of points (zones) on which focus analysis is performed. For 2012 Nikon has cameras with 3, 5, 11, 39, 51 focus points. The number of points affects the usability and focusing accuracy of the camera. You can read in more detail about focus systems on Nikon cameras.
For working with focus points, the settings are responsible. AF-area mode.
- Automatic (auto-area AF), denoted as a white rectangle. Focuses on the closest subject using all available points.
- Dynamic (dynamic-area AF), focusing works on only one point, but takes into account information with adjacent points
- Single Point AF, focuses on only one point.
- Additional: 3D-tracking, or the choice of several zones. Such settings are not available on all cameras and often they are sub-functions of the dynamic focus area selection.
Important:
It’s very convenient to set the choice of the focus area method for amateur and advanced amateur cameras using a soft key (as I did on Nikon D90) This will allow you to quickly switch between focusing on a single point, automatic zone selection, dynamic mode, 3D tracking, etc. On Nikon professional and flagship cameras, a special zone switch is provided, which simplifies the work with professional equipment.
Attention:
in manual focus mode (M, MF), only one focus point is available.
Important:
A number of cameras can show in the image at which point or group of points the focus was performed. When viewing a picture, you can activate a mode in which the focus points are indicated by squares. This mode is supported only by professional cameras of the type D200, D300 and all full-frame. This is convenient because when setting up a quick preview of the image on a 1 to 1 scale, scaling is done exactly at the focus point at which the shooting was performed. This allows you to quickly check and select good sharp pictures. On advanced amateur and amateur cameras, to view the correct focusing, press the zoom button, and then use the selector to find the area in the image by which focus was performed. If your camera does not have a function that shows at which point the focus was performed, you can use ViewNX, which comes with the camera. Focus points can be displayed on the computer display. This is sometimes very helpful. In the sample photos, I just copied the work of ViewNX 2.
Important:
ViewNX only displays focus points on the computer when the picture was taken in AF-A, AF-S, AF-C modes with focus priority. If AF-S, AF-C with shutter priority is selected, the program will show focus points only if the camera was sure that the focus was correct.
Important:
Not all Nikon cameras allow you to change the area and type of focus when using the automatic modes (green mode). In modes P, A, S, M, everything can be customized to your taste.
Focus point loop function
This function simply allows you to move the focus point in a circle, thus looping it around. When the rightmost point is selected, when you press the selector right, the focus point will go to the leftmost position. This function simply allows you to speed up the work when focusing on a single point.
Wide and standard focus area
In some cameras, you can choose a wide focus area, in contrast to the usual. A wide focus area reduces the number of focus points (zones). For example, for Nikon D200 With 11 focus points, 7 wide areas are created. Optically in the viewfinder, the zones will be larger in size than the dots. This sometimes simplifies the work with the camera.
Focus adjustment (alignment)
Sometimes the lens may malfunction and focus behind the subject (back) or in front of the focus object (front). In the people, such a lack of lenses is called back focus, front focus (back and front focus). Some cameras may adjust to the “wrong” lens. To do this, you need to find the focus adjustment in the camera and adjust the focus. Only have tuning Nikon D300, D300s, D500, D7000, D7100, D7200, D7500, D700, D750, D780, D800e, D800E, D810,D810a, D3, D3s, D3x, D4, D4s, D5, Df, D600, D610.
Focusing with Dark Lenses
Almost all Nikon cameras can focus without problems automatically only when using lenses with apertures up to F / 5.6. This is indicated in the camera manual. When using lenses with a smaller aperture, such as the Tamron 28-300mm F / 3.5-6.3 XR Di VC LD Asph (IF) Macro, it may be difficult to focus on the F / 6.3 aperture. Also, when using teleconvertersthat decrease the effective aperture value of the converter lens, focusing problems may also occur. Only a few cameras can focus without problems with F / 8.0 lenses. The limitation is related to the number of focus points that can work normally at F / 5.6-F / 8.0. You can find more details about which cameras and which focus points (zones) are used to work with 'dark' lenses here.
Cross-shaped focus points (sensors) vs regular focus points
How many times I didn’t use one-point focusing, I did not find the difference in the quality of focusing using the cross-shaped point and the usual focusing point. Basically, cross-shaped focus points (sensors) are said to do a much better job of focusing than regular focus points. It is generally accepted that cross-shaped focus points are better at handling 'wire against sky' scenes.
Focus light
Nikon cameras have a special light bulb that helps focus in dark conditions. The light bulb simply illuminates the subject in focus and autofocus is easier to focus on. The backlight may not come on in AF-C mode. The focus light is often called the “spotlight” and is recommended to be turned off. Personally, I have the backlight turned off, but in poor lighting conditions I use a flash that has its own "red spot" with a long range. More details about the flashlight in photo tricks section.
Important:
Some Nikon CLCs for some reason do not illuminate the subject with the AF-assist lamp in single-point focus mode, if a non-central point is selected. As far as I know, all Nikon cameras provide auxiliary illumination with a lamp in single-point focus mode, if the center focus point is selected.
Important:
Flagship Niko camerasn such as Nikon D1, Dh, D1x, D2h, D2x, D2hs, D2xs, D3, D3s, D3x, Df, D4, D4s, D5 do not have a focus assist lamp at all.
Interesting:
Nikon cameras can be implemented very simply focus trap.
My experience and recommendations on focusing on Nikon cameras can be found here.
Is everything complicated and little understood?
Then just turn on AF-A and the icon with a rectangular focus area. Automation copes well with the main tasks. I recommend fully automatic focusing for home use. Sometimes fine-tuning the modes of the focus points does not justify itself.
Which Nikon camera focuses best?
Focus best Nikon D5 and Nikon D500 with the most advanced focus modules.
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Conclusions:
Learning how to deal with focus modes will help you more accurately and quickly achieve the desired result. I strongly recommend experimenting with the modes and focus areas on your camera.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval.
This is nutrition. In focus trap mode on a chip-on manual lens. The shutter fires at the beginning of the sharpness zone, but not in the middle. On autofocus optics, as I understand it, this problem is solved programmatically, by sweeping the sharpness zone.
Hello. Tell me please. I focus manually through live view, focus area: face. Just zoom in + and then focus when one face in the frame is convenient, if there are 2 faces, the focus area starts to jerk between them. Is it possible to somehow fix on one of them? I have d3200
Hello. It can focus on one point (AF area mode), assign the center point or any other with the joystick, combine it with the object of interest, focus, take a picture. If you look through the OVI, the camera is more stable, there is less movement.
Great article. Thank you for your work.
Hello, I really like your blog, a lot of useful and interesting information. I have a question on the Nikon D 500 whether there is a function to manually set the focus point in the desired area. Tell me how, what settings should be and which buttons control this. Thanks.
There is. You need to read the instructions and everything will become clear
Hello, maybe someone faced a similar problem, I need help, Nikon d7100,18-105 get blurry photos, focus, focus confirmation signal, press the shutter and the photo is blurry, that the shutter is the same and that the tripod is the same, it’s very difficult to get a clear landscape photo, but clear photos are obtained if I photograph it carefully, what could be my problem?
Put here an example of any blurry photo and you will get an accurate diagnosis
photo link https://ibb.co/N6LBTFW
Here, everything is in focus, just the lens is not capable of more.
one more photo https://ibb.co/9gYzSfy
close-up photo https://ibb.co/YdByqC9
I looked at all the photos - I'm afraid you can't wish for more from this lens. Moreover, the “close-up” photo (taken at the highest focal length) is in fact no better than the others, this is just an illusion of resolution due to the increase in the subject of photography (look at the trees below in front of the house)
Also, there is definitely a problem with the camera settings - judging by the information from EXIF, you have 1,3 crop mode enabled, i.e. you take pictures only on a part (middle) of the matrix, about the size of micro 4/3 cameras (there is nothing good about that, it can only spoil the picture).
Also, do you happen to have D-Lighting and Noise Reduction turned on (which adds up to replacing “grain” with blurry “watercolor”)?
What are the sharpness settings in the Picture Control settings? I recommend that you shoot experimentally in RAW and in the proprietary .raw file editor the above settings that are most suitable for you, and then set them on the camera and then shoot in .jpeg.
You were right, the crop mode of 1,3 was turned on and the D-Lighting mode was turned on. I photograph only in raw and show in lightroom. but the photo that I applied without processing. you can advise a lens on which there will be a clear picture always, landscapes and portraits are of interest, and indeed that there would be a permanent lens and not take it off.
You can first learn how to work with the camera, handle rav normally (only not in lightroom :)).
And it turns out that the lens is not as bad as it seemed.
Why not in Lightroom? I'm used to using it.) Is there a better program?
In the lightroom, you cannot, for example, disable / enable / select the D-Lighting mode,
I have a personal dislike for lightroom. No matter how hard I tried, nothing good came of it. Very pleased with ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate, he does not understand clumsy Nikon profiles and is quite functional.
Capture NX-D, you can, but it seemed a little confused.
Norm program, only a lot of problems with it and without experience, the result is not very good. Is rpp a good thing, but specific
As Nikon bought it, I use their standard ViewNX2 program ... It suits me perfectly. Only the developers stopped updating it .. ((but, that is.
The choice of a lens (especially one for almost diametrically different tasks) is a very subjective matter, which depends on a million factors - from budget to personal preferences.
Read articles on Radozhiv, analyze what you read.
Personally, I also love portraits and landscapes more, I’m full frame, therefore the choice of lenses is much wider.
With a moderate budget, for the landscape, I would recommend looking at the new 10-20mm AF-P, people praise it, including for its sharpness. at the same time it costs a lot on a budget. He has a useless aperture, in fact, like that of a whale, but for ordinary landscapes this does not matter much. Or something from wide-angle Tokin.
For a portrait - either 50 / 1,8G or 85 / 1,8G - the latter is preferable, but also more expensive. In both cases, this is the same case when it is straight and budgetary and mentally.
If you desperately need exactly one lens and the budget is rubber 17-55 / 2.8 - this is the long-recognized best lens for Nikon crop. But one, even the best, will still not be able to fully replace those two. The whole point of DSLRs is the ability to change optics, if you don't use it - almost all the meaning and almost all the advantages over cameras with non-replaceable optics disappear.
photographed the target, please see. should it be so? https://ibb.co/RvSD3vs
In general, targets should be photographed completely open. And so - I see no problems.
I would recommend a Nikon 16-80mm f / 2.8-4E ED VR lens. I myself am the owner of this glass, and so it is very sharp, with excellent color rendition and cool stub.
Thank you for the article. For me, educational program is the very thing ..)))
Thanks, very useful article! I wanted to ask: I have a Nikon d610 with a whale lens, I always worked on tracking autofocus; I recently tried shooting with a zoom AF lens, and the camera refused to turn on autofocus, that is, I didn’t change anything in the camera when changing lenses and the camera did not focus with the new lens, I had to turn the lens with my hands, it’s very inconvenient .. what could be the mistake? Thank you in advance!
Maybe the focus switch on the lens is in MF mode and not AF?
It was a Nikon AF Zoom-NIKKOR 80-200mm F2.8D ED (f-mount)
I searched, did not find, but I could miss. Now I look at his photo on the Internet
https://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/AFNikkor/AF-Nikkor80200mm/AFNikkor80200f28D_C.jpg
There is an M and A - is that a switch? that is, perhaps it was necessary to translate the arrow into A?
yes, you need to translate to "A"
"A" - autofocus
“M” - manual focus
Hello. I have a Nikon D 3200 DSLR with a Nikkor 18 - 55 mm kit lens (without a stabilizer). In the vast majority of shots, the right edge, about a quarter of the frame, or even more, goes into “soap” (and the left one also gets washed out, but usually less than the right one) and this spoils the frame very much at any aperture value. And in general, distant objects are always not sharp. I shoot mostly nature and use auto focus. I have 2 very exciting questions: 1. Is it possible on this camera with a whale lens to achieve sharpness and long-range and near-field (like infinity), or do you need another lens (shirik-fix, for example)?, And 2. What can be connected with "Soap" around the edges - with a feature of a particular lens, or something else, or am I not focusing correctly?
Thank you in advance !
I ought to look at at least one photo ...
Here
https://ibb.co/z7ccLpq
https://ibb.co/tM75FsM
https://ibb.co/n83ZvzK
It looks like ... a copy of this.
Did you drop this lens or hit it?
*
I almost bought Sigma 15-30, where the left edge was noticeably soapier than the right.
Then he discovered a small subtle crack on the body.
The seller later admitted that the lens may have fallen.
No, I didn’t drop or knock. He seemed to be like that right away. When I bought a camera, at the end of 2014, I somehow didn’t find fault with this, because as soon as I mastered the DSLR, I’m now thinking about it.
When I took Comrade Tamron 17-55 / 2.8, the first copy when I arrived, I noticeably washed one corner of it. The lens is completely new, we opened the packaging ourselves in the store - just such a copy came across. Ordered another - everything is ok
Hello. Seems like you're out of luck with your lens. I have one (which is GII ED), I like it, I think it is the best of the whales, contrasting, sharp, and all over the frame, slightly covered. True, I use it on large-pixel (6-10MP) cameras, but it also pulls at 16MP. I won't tell you about the width-fix (and they are DX, not the fishies?), But the shirik-zooms also wash the edges (look here for a review of sigma 10-20 / 4-5,6). Look, if possible, similar lenses on the secondary, for the absence of soap around the edges, of course, what is in focus. This is on the second question, on the first: yes, perhaps - type in the search for “depth of field calculator” it shows at which aperture and at what distance what depth of depth is and when the hyperfocal begins.
Thank you!
Vadim, 18-55 is a cheap whale glass "plug". they wash everything.
Greetings. There is a nikon 3100, I tried to test shots in the timer mode on a tripod, but focusing is carried out only when the timer starts, after that the camera does not follow the “target”, can I make the camera keep focusing in the timer mode?
Must not
It is clear, but in this case the whole meaning of the timer disappears.
Remote control to help in this case. The timer is not a bit about that.
The model I wrote about does not support the remote control. From the instructions “Self-timer can be used to reduce camera shake during shooting or to take self-portraits”. Well, how can you create a self-portrait here? You try to photograph yourself or yourself with someone, but he categorically refuses to focus in this mode, as a result of an absolutely useless pribludina. The funny thing is that he even defines faces and frames them, but categorically refuses to focus on them, it's very stupid and stupid. Of course, you can shield the manufacturer as much as you want, but what prevented them from adding autofocus in this mode? Not to say that I really need this mode, but why declare the self-portrait mode through a timer, which simply does not work, even continuous shooting in this mode cannot be set. Everything is so ill-considered and crooked that it is obvious even to an amateur with five days of experience. If there is no autofocus in timer mode and in more expensive models, then this is generally a paragraph.
I used two wireless RF-1100s on the 602D (or 603 - I don’t remember already) with a cord for self-timer. Half-presses - focusing, full pressing - descent. I suspect the D3100 should work too.
I read that it turns out that Nikon "missed" your model and deprived it of Remote Control support.
Yes, two Yongnuo RF-603II complete with N3 cord will solve your problem. 1000 UAH per pair, it is quite real. Well, get a radio synchronizer in addition. On the idea of a flash with built-in RF, it will also set fire.
Hello! Tell me please. On the Nikon, the D5200 utilized all 39 AF-A focus points. When I start to focus, several points appear on the object I need. When I release the shutter, only one point remains, and some photos turn out that the person (subject) is blurred, and the background is much clearer.
Hello. Try “AF-area selection” - one point. Either by the center point with re-framing after focusing and focusing, or by selecting the desired point with the joystick and then focusing. I don't think there is such a big back focus.
If multiple focus points are illuminated at the same time, then I'm sure you were shooting in auto mode. The camera tried to “average” focus for all objects in the frame, which is impossible in principle in most cases. Hence the negative result.
Shoot in semi-automatic modes (preferably aperture priority mode - A), there will always be only ONE active point and you will select the focus area by moving the point with the joystick.
1. Read the question more attentively: “… several points appear on the object I need. When I release the shutter, there is only one point. ” 2. In both semi-automatic and manual modes, dynamic, 3D and automatic focusing modes are also available.
shooting on aperture priority (A)
no, shoot on aperture priority
Perhaps af-a jumps to tracking mode due to the contrasting background. Try af-s
And why does it show several points, but leaves only one. For example, when I’m shooting a landscape, the more points blinked, the sharper the IMHO picture. Or does it blink the points from which the camera selects one priority?
I think the dots that light up when shooting in automatic. When choosing an AF area (you are shooting in it?), they show the objects that are in focus (or fall into the depth of field), why there is only one - probably focusing occurs on it. I think it's safer to tell the camera where (what) to focus on, rather than trust its choice.
I think this feature is just AF-A mode. In my AF-S, all the dots on the screen that were in the viewfinder during shooting light up. This does not happen only if you reduce the number of selectable AF points in the settings.
Hello Arkady, tell me how to do Focus adjustment (alignment) & z don't quite understand what and how to do (((
Shoot a contrasting object with a ruler next to it. If the focus is not hit, turn the “AF fine adjustment” slider in the menu until you get the desired result
thanks, I will try)
Very cool article. Everything is disassembled in detail. Cool. However, as always. If you’re interested in learning about autofocus modes from other companies, there’s another good article http://linkphoto.ru/avtofokus-v-fotoapparate/
Good afternoon, I bought myself a Nikon d200 on ebay, everything is fine, but here's the annoyance - autofocus does not want to work. I switch the focus to S mode and it behaves like in the M focus mode. When you press af-on in the viewfinder, everything lights up in red. Focus does not occur. In the settings of the menus a1 and a2, focus priority is selected, so I think either I'm doing something wrong or something is broken. Can you advise what?
Which lens is the camera used with?
It is strange that the camera allows you to take a picture at any position of focus (in focus and out of focus) when he should have refused to take a picture if there is no focus because focus is on the menu, does it mean that the switch stuck in position M? Although it switches, it does not seem to work or is broken. What do you think?
Autofocus unexpectedly started on Nikkor 50 1.4D lens
Interestingly, this may be due to the firmware version? Now stands
2.0
2.0
I tried AF 70-300, AF-S 50 1.4, AF-S 24-85, AF-S 18-55. They all work on a different camera.
All Nikkor
Although I don’t know about AF 70-300, another camera without a focus motor
Tested it on D300s - it works
Guys help out. Nikon D800 camera. Can't figure out how to make a clear group portrait of children on it? Many children, a whole class. I want all the kids to come out in the photo with clear faces, but it doesn't work. All the same, someone "blurs". Hope for your experience!
cover the aperture to 11. If you zoom, make the angle wider. Exposure is 1/200 or shorter so that there is no grease.
Thank you!
and don't forget to use flash
Please save !!! I photograph about 600 frames per hour and half out of focus ... do my hands are so crooked ?? I seem to train, but it doesn't work out ... and the background is not so blurry! ... the problem is simple
It would be very nice if you point out what you are shooting (camera, lens) and attach a link to an archive or a folder in the cloud with what you think is “not working”. thanks
Nikon d3300 camera. standard lens…. behold https://yadi.sk/d/1YUkcAGXvfQ2bA
Sorry for writing so much…. so that you don't "dig" here are 3 photos that are out of focus….https://yadi.sk/d/7SrVRDRI1qzlqg
I wanted to attach it here - it did not work)
This is not a problem with focusing, but a problem with exposure. Turn on the auto ISO, in the menu, set the minimum shutter speed to about 1/160 s. and an ISO limit of about 12.800 and everything will work out.
thank you very much!! I will definitely try!
Please save !!! I photograph about 600 frames per hour and half are out of focus ... is it really that my hands are so crooked ?? I seem to train, but it doesn’t work out ... and the background is not so blurry! ... the trouble is simple. Nikon D3300 Camera
ps attached a photo:
Hello, tell me please: camera 5100 with 35 / 1.8 is also 18-105
Af-s mode has 11 focus points and all but one focus well and tenaciously, but the one to the right of the central one cannot focus, the lens zooms in but does not find the focus, it does not depend on the lighting, the focus object is all different and quite contrasted when it started already and I don’t remember.
Please advise what could be and how to cure it?
The D750 also has no problem focusing with f / 8.0 lenses
Good day. I want to ask. I have an old mirror carcass with a screwdriver (film nikon f65). It does not work autofocus. What could be the breakdown? Manually with AF and AF-S lenses, it works great. I know that most likely the repair is pointless, but it’s just interesting to know why this is happening? Has the shutter button died, or is there something else?
If it does not work with AF-S, then this is already a problem. Perhaps focus activation is reassigned to another button, maybe something with contacts
Arkady, what are you, what is the reassignment to another button? This is a film Nikon. There is not even a menu there to reconfigure. Dmitry, firstly, on the camera body you need to translate the lever into autofocus. Secondly, during focusing (half-pressing the shutter button) do you hear the sound of the focus motor? If not, then there may be a breakdown in this node. The network has a service manual for it, but if you have never done repairs, or you do not have spare parts, then it makes no sense to disassemble it. Cheaper to buy another on Avito.
I did not pay attention to the model
Thanks. Yes, I can't hear the sound of the engine. So the focusing node? Is it useless to fix it? No experience, but I want to figure it out. There is nothing to lose - there is a similar film Nikon. Find an explanation of how this is repaired in principle.
This may not be the focus motor, but its control (from the processor board). Dismantling the SLR camera then requires tuning on the stands. You can try for fun. Here I posted the service manual and a list of spare parts (https://dropmefiles.com/JZWux) Everything is in English.
I see, not only I have access to service manuals))
However, I will ask - is there a manual for micro Nikkor 105 2.8D? because I just can not find at all a piece of data on it. there are docks on micro nikkor before him, manual, there are docks on the one after him, with a stub. and this one has nothing. moreover, I was looking not just on the network, but on Nikon's servers, with authorized access there. and nothing. sent a request to Nikon - in response, something vaguely answered.
I have it, broken. but in principle, I figured it out, but I would like to read the manual, maybe there is something not quite obvious there.
I have no such instructions.
The shutter button cannot die. It just has electrical contacts.
do you think all buttons work forever?)
Moreover, the "complex" double-membrane button ...
Nothing in the world lasts forever. If you wish, you can and x .. break. Judging by what Dmitry described, the button still functions (and if you set the dial to the "Auto" position and press the shutter button all the way without pressing the shutter button, the camera will not take a picture until the focus is triggered, and if autofocus works, it will setting and after that it will work). And the button is not that complicated. For example, for the D90 I analyzed it myself. This is how it looks:
Yes. When you put M on the carcass, it works as usual. Yesterday I put a youngnuo 35 mm lens for the experiment. He also works with him on the manual, you set autofocus. You live the button easily, the motor does not buzz. You can click several times and photographing occurs, but focusing does not occur.
No, M is for M and M, the shutter will fire even if the lens is disconnected. I wrote about Auto mode. There, the shutter will not work until the autofocus works out sharpness. By the way, you have to check the whole chain. Focusing may not work due to problems with the focus sensor and due to the small mirror that works in conjunction with this sensor. In any case, it is unlikely that you will be able to fix it yourself. And on Avito such cameras are worth a penny.
I mean about this:
And yet, when disassembling, you can get a strong electric shock from the flash capacitor. Until the burn.
Thank you Ivan. All clearly explained.
And by the way, there are no membranes there, only contacts. Here, specifically for the F65 button:
Can't fix it yourself? Maybe the wires have oxidized - all the same 17 years old fotik. It's scary to disassemble.
Good day, expert opinion is very necessary: there is a problem with phase focusing on the new Nikon D750, I can’t understand whether to carry it in for repair or is this normal.
We have a D750 with Nikkor 70-200 F2.8
Center point focus
1. I shoot through the viewfinder, it turns out insufficient sharpness (left photo).
2. If I focus in LV mode on the screen, then the photo is sharp (right photo).
I tried other lenses, I watched the same picture.
D-Lighting and noise reduction are disabled, I’m shooting from a tripod with a self-timer, F2.8
If you remove the target to check the focus, the camera lands exactly in the center, there is no front back focus.
Technical malfunction?
And yet it is a back-front focus. If it is not possible to tune on the target, rebuild “on the crampons”. If everything is in order in liveview, then everything is in order.
Do you take pictures of the target at the same focal point?
Yes, on the same.
Thanks for the quick reply, I'll try again to check everything.
The target looks like this, but I see that the experiment is not entirely pure.
This is science, of course, but I can't set it up so well. I put a lighter (or another parrot-contrast object) in the focal point and shoot it, checking the back-front on the sheet. The sensor does not catch other targets and the sheet is almost horizontal in the frame - the depth of field is better seen
Thanks, I'll try this method!
In science, this is how it turns out, there is no obvious bias.
Many lenses (about 70-200 / 2,8 I can't say) have focusing errors (phase, through OVI) depending on the distance. focusing and from the aperture. So, the H.28-105 I have has an explicit back focus, and when shooting in macro mode it is accurate. The second case is typical, for example, for 35 / 1,8DX: on the open one - front focus, on the covered ones - exactly.
Well, here everything is the same for a person and the distance (banknote) and the diaphragm and focal. Although such phenomena take place
And phase focusing on low-contrast objects does not work very well. Often, under the same conditions, the main matrix, with focusing by contrast, in LiveView mode even better. :-)
And even on the presented targets for determining the back / front focus when set at 45 degrees, there are inaccuracies in phase focusing.
It is better to check the focus on any printed text in a plane parallel to the matrix. It is enough to take 3 pictures, changing the correction in the menu of the device from -5 (10) to +5 (10), through 0. And then to compare these pictures.
Removing the target at 45 he twisted the correction to -20, but it turned out that this was not required at all.
Here is such a whimsical phase focus. But fast!
Good afternoon! I bought a Nikon 610d camera and a Nikkor 50 af-s lens for it. New. Does not focus ((. Before Nikonov there was a canon. On the lens I put it in m / a, on the carcass the lever on AF.
I solved the problem. It turns out the husband did not insert the lens until the click. Oh how!