Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4G SWM (abbreviated Nikon 50 / 1.4G) is one of Nikon's fastest autofocus lenses. It's classic half a ruble (a lens with a focal length of 50 mm), which is suitable for a huge number of photo tasks, in particular, such a lens can be shot in low light, used as a standard fixed lens on Nikon FX cameras, the lens is suitable for portrait and artistic shooting. With huge aperture F / 1.4 you can create and enjoy the result.
Nikon Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4g
All Nikon 50-58 / 1.4 / 1.2 autofocus lenses
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.4 AF Nikkor (first version, MK I) - the lens was produced only in Japan from 1986 to 1991
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.4 AF Nikkor (second version, MK II, also known as the 'N', or the 'NEW' version) - the lens was only available in Japan from 1991 to 1995
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.4D AF Nikkor (third version, MKIIIbetter known as 'D'-version) - the lens is available from 1995 to this day. There are two subversions that are no different.
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.4G AF-S Nikkor SWM (fourth version, MKIVbetter known as 'G' version) - the lens is only available in China from 2008 to this day.
- Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 58mm 1: 1.4G Nano Crystal Coat SWM Aspherical (version better known as'58/1.4') - the lens is only available in Japan from 2013 to this day.
- Nikon Nikkor Z 58mm 1: 0.95 S Noct - The lens is available from 2019 to this day. Premium Lens for Mirrorless Cameras Nikon Z... It does not have automatic focus, but has a record aperture. Complex optical design with 17 elements in 10 groups, with 4 ED elements and 3 aspherical elements.
- Nikon Nikkor Z 50 / 1.2 S - The lens has been produced from 2020 to the present day. Professional S-line lens for mirrorless cameras Nikon Z... Complex optical design with 17 elements in 15 groups, with 2 ED elements and 3 aspherical elements
Nikon Nikkor-SC Auto 1: 1.4 f = 50mm and Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4G SWM
Main technical characteristics of Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4G SWM:
| Review Instance Name | Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4G SWM 309536 |
| Basic properties |
|
| Front Filter Diameter | 58 mm, plastic thread for filters |
| Focal length | 50 mm, EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 75 mm, EGF for Nikon CX cameras is 135 mm |
| Zoom ratio | 1 X (this is a fixed lens, it does not have a zoom) |
| Designed by | for digital and film cameras |
| Number of aperture blades | 9 pieces, petals rounded |
| Tags | focusing distance in meters and feet, depth of field tags for F / 11 and F / 16 values, bayonet mount tag and lens hood attachment / fixation |
| Diaphragm | F / 1.4 to F / 16, without aperture ring. |
| MDF | 0.45 m, maximum magnification ratio 1: 6.7 |
| The weight | 280 g |
| Optical design | 8 elements in 7 groups. The lens does not use special optical elements in its design. The image of the circuit is clickable. |
| Lens hood | Replaceable Nikon HB-47 plastic lens hood, lenses use the same lens hood Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical and Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical Special Edition |
| Manufacturer country | MADE IN CHINA |
| Period | From September 2008 -> |
| Instruction | View -> |
| Price |
The Nikon 50 / 1.4G lens will work great on any Nikon DSLR camera. Among fifty brothersthis Nikon 50 / 1.4G is the best. At one time, he became a replacement for his older brother Nikon 50mm f / 1.4D AF Nikkor... In fact, the Nikon 50 / 1.4G was introduced back in 2008, and I think that soon we will see a fifty-kopeck piece (50mm lens) from Nikon with more serious performance.
Addition: my prediction came true, and in addition to the 'non-professional' Nikon 50 / 1.4G Nikon has released a 'professional' about fifty kopecks Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 58mm 1: 1.4G SWM... Still, it's a shame that Nikon doesn't have professional fifty dollars. At the same time, Canon has two of them - Canon Lens EF 50mm 1: 1.2 L USM and Canon Lens EF 50mm 1: 1.0 L USM.
Nikon Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4g
Focus on Nikon 50 / 1.4G
The Nikon 50 / 1.4G lens will focus on any modern DSLR camera. If you found your camera in genealogy nameplatethen you can rest assured that the Nikon 50 / 1.4G will work great with it. The Nikon 50 / 1.4G has a built-in focusing motor, as indicated by the AF-S designation. When focusing, the lens practically does not make noise, a special Nikon SWM (Silent Wave Motor) ultrasonic motor helps it. After two years of using my Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (MKIII)which makes a lot of noise when focusing, using the new Nikon 50 / 1.4G is a pleasure.
When focusing, the front lens group moves in the middle of the frame of the housing. I can’t say that the lens has internal focus. But when focusing, the lens does not change its size, and the filter is wound on a fixed external part of the lens, which does not rotate when focusing. This type of focusing can also be found in Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S Nikkor. The minimum focusing distance is 45cm.
In focus mode 'M / A'Automatic focusing with manual focus priority is available. This means that in autofocus mode, the focus can be manually adjusted immediately. The 'M / A' mode is very useful, for example for creating focus trap effect... In 'M' mode, only manual focus is available. The focusing ring is rubberized.
Nikon Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4g
Focus Speed
Nikon 50 / 1.4G one of the lowest fokiroki speeds among all fifty dollars Nikon Nikkor. Focus speed is average. The rest fifty kopecks Nikkon Nikkor, even the oldest Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor MKIoutperform the focusing speed of the Nikon 50mm F1.4G. Of course, to say that a low speed will not be right, but I would like a faster reaction of the lens for that kind of money.
Nikon Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4g
Attention! Very often they write that the lens is very fast. This term is applied not so much to the focusing speed, but more to the description of the lens aperture at which shutter is very fast, decreasing the shutter speed. The confusion came from the English Fast Lens (fast "fast" lens).
Nikon Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4g
The focus ring is rubberized, in the active position it rotates as much as 180 degrees. Due to the fact that the lens is quite chubby, such a move of the focusing ring is quite enough for comfortable work with manual focusing. During auto focus, the ring remains stationary. In manual focus mode, when the ring reaches its extreme positions, it does not rest, but continues to rotate, slipping, like on many native Nikon lenses.
There is a window on the lens with a scale for focusing distances and a depth of field scale. My Nikon 50mm F1.4G misses focus very rarely, even on F1.4.
Nikon Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4g
Iris control
The lens does not have an aperture control ring, since it is a G-type lens. This fifty dollars is very large aperture F / 1.4, this allows you to achieve a very small depth of field, reduce shutter speed and without raising ISO. This lens is very simple take off... The lens has a 9-blade diaphragm, which is a good indicator. The petals are rounded and give a nice smooth bokeh without nuts or other artifacts.
Nikon Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4g
Compatible with FX and DX cameras
The lens will work perfectly on Nikon FX full-frame cameras. On Nikon DX cameras, due to crop factor, EGF lens will be 75mm. This allows the Nikon AF-S 50mm F/1.4G to be used as a portrait lens on DX cameras without any problems. Rumor has it that Nikon AF-S 50mm F / 1.4G is the best portrait lens for crop, I personally like mine much more for crop portrait Nikon 85mm F / 1.8D AF Nikkor.
Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8 (MKII, MIJ version) and Nikon Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4g
Diameter of filter and hood
The lens has a filter diameter of 58 mm. The lens comes with a wonderful hood and pouch bag. The hood can be installed backwards, in this position it is easy to carry on the lens and the hood does not take up extra space in the case.
Nikon Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4g on camera Nikon D40x
Nikon 50mm F1.4G Image Quality
The lens, as expected, showed an excellent picture and optical characteristics. The main problem of the Nikon 50mm F1.4G is HA on apertures F1.4-F2.0. The most interesting thing is that HA disappear already at F2.0 - which is a very good indicator. Units have a fully working aperture of F2.0, for example Nikon 50mm F1.2 MF. The lens produces the best image quality at apertures within F2.0-F8.0. Up to F2.0, the lens is inherent HA. After F8.0, diffraction takes effect. About the sharpness: Nikon 50mm F1.4G on F1.4 gives the image is already quite sharp, due to aberrations there is a light software effect. On F1.4, you can make high-quality portraits where strong sharpness of the lens is not always a necessity. Lens gives slightly warm image. The lens provides good contrast. On my cropped camera, vignetting disappears already at F2.8, on F1.4 the vignetting is slightly noticeable. I do not bother with vignetting, it is easy to fix it in the editor. The lens normally tolerates side and back light. A strong drawback in the image of a lens of this class is a slight barrel-shaped distortion (distorting the geometry of the image). Many fifty dollars have much less distortion or do not have it at all. On crop, distortion is barely noticeable. The bokeh of the lens deserves special attention. The lens gives a very nice, even bokeh. Even on closed apertures, discs in the blur zone have a regular round shape. Very funny, but on F1.4, the discs in the blur zone are oval and create twisted bokeh. Generally: high image quality.
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4G SWM on a film TOP camera Nikon F6
Sample Photos on Nikon D40 (APS-C, DX)
All photos in the gallery below were taken on Nikon D40. I specifically filmed on Nikon D40to show that even on the simplest DSLR, the lens Nikon 50mm F1.4G works great and with it you can achieve a good result.
Sample Photos on Nikon D80 (APS-C, DX)
All photos in the gallery below were taken on Nikon D80. All photos without treatment... RAW -> JPEG Q80%. Reduced size to 1600 * 1200 and printed data from EXIF.
Sample Photos on Nikon D3200 (APS-C, DX)
All photos in the gallery below were taken on Nikon D3200. All photos without treatment... RAW -> JPEG Q80%. Reduced size to 1600 * 1200 and printed data from EXIF.
RAW source files ('.NEF') can be download from this link (28 files, 350 MB).
More examples of photos can be found on my blog here и here.
Personal experience using
I have a lens Nikon 50mm F1.4G I liked it with my picture (image quality). I often work with optics that only support manual focusing, because the average focusing speed is Nikon 50mm F1.4G for me it doesn’t matter at all. The lens in the hands is quite weighty, but its outer plastic part is felt. And the inscription Made in China is not very credible. I used two years with a tail Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor after which I switched to Nikon AF-S 50mm 1: 1.4G and I have no regrets about it. In general, if you need a fix after a whale lens, then Nikon 50mm f / 1.8D AF Nikkor or Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S Nikkor will be the best option. Usually aperture F / 1.4 is rarely required and is quite difficult to work with. F / 1.4 is often taken by professionals who know exactly what they need. My copy was out of order in a light collision from the limousine seat. The focusing motor broke down, the repair cost $ 150, after 3 months the motor broke down again during a long shooting on one of the frames. I sold this lens after repairs. A year later, I bought a new one, then sold it again. Then I bought the same lens again. But somehow this lens did not take root for me.
You can read more information about other autofocus fifty dollars here... In addition, there is also an analogue of Nikon AF-S 50mm 1: 1.4G from a third-party manufacturer - Sigma 50mm 1: 1.4 DG HSM EX.
The oldest mirrored fifty dollar - Nippon Kogaku Japan Nikkor-S Auto 1: 2 f = 5cm and TOP Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4G SWM
You can see the real prices for the lens in online stores here, or in the price block below:
Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8 (MKII, MIJ version) and Nikon Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4g
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Video review
You can watch the video review here (on my new YouTube channel) or in the box below. Many thanks to Vladimir Morgunov for helping create the video review.
Conclusions:
Nikon 50mm F1.4G - a wonderful lens. Has few shortcomings. It is the best Nikon Nikkor fifty. Recommend.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
I don't understand - I posted a link to the photo, and it disappeared. D850. 50 \ 1.4g f1.4, 1 \ 100
https://scontent.fiev10-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.15752-9/s2048x2048/41751553_297911234335958_419376360721481728_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=b260314b85c79a7d0f6c061f38eef3db&oe=5C2DD907
What did you want to show? D850 + 50mm f1.4 = telephone cat-carpet ... The light was at least corrected, otherwise everything is yellow
Strange, on the one hand it’s taken explicitly on the phone: BB curve, motion blur (because phones usually do not require full control of exposure parameters), compression artifacts and noise reduction.
On the other hand, the degree of background blurring assumes the presence of a very wide aperture and a relatively large matrix.
What was it all the same?
Telephone, so telephone ... There are a lot of specialists here !!! It was what was written! Survey data is given. Posted by Arkady's advice. Check out the posts on the previous page.
It was taken from the FB messenger. The light in the room is yellow. Siamese cat forces - point seen? He's just those colors. Camera for 2 days on hand. Testing fifty dollars, which did not want to work at 7100.
It's a pity that you can't delete messages from here…. Shumodav ... Artifacts .... Probably a 50 inch monitor ... Compression ... Yes, facebook compression. On disk, this Jepeg (compressed format) takes 7,67MB after resize and conversion. And ISO 4000. Filmed in M. V LR Nef without processing. Only lens profile, noise reduction - 25 (LR set it by default), resize and conversion.
This fifty kopeck on the 7100 didn't want to focus precisely. The -8 LW amendment had some effect. But there was a shift focus. The 850th, I don't know how, immediately made him focus accurately and quite quickly. I was also interested in what ratio of exposure and FR of the lens will allow you to get sharp pictures in the open. It turned out that the exposure value, = 2FR, can be sufficient for this matrix. Probably the surprisingly soft shutter and mirror, as well as the soft trigger, do the trick. I checked the shift today - it is not at 5,6. And at 7100 I was even present at 2,8.
And what if the light in the room is yellow? Now everyone with yellow faces should walk ... And if he is blue, then with blue. White balance needs to be corrected, at least something like this:
The color of the cat, please note, meets the standard breed Seal Point Siamese.
Begs only one... If the frame is unsuccessful, then saving it with one color, or just mentioning that this is D850 and that it is F / 1.4 is very difficult.
Well, yes - the claws turned purple ... like the whole cat and everything else. (it's good that he doesn't see this change!) By the way ... Where did you find the faces? The frame is to confirm that the fifty dollar earned. And that's it! This, of course, is difficult to understand ... In fact, both the carpet and the cat, and the shelf (brown, not purple) on which the cat lies, and the cat's toy in color absolutely correspond to reality. Like the color of my wife's hand. On the right is a section of column S-90. In the first version, it is, as it should, brown. And in the second - purple. And in concerts where light paints people in all colors of the rainbow, will the respected Polo also try to fit the skin to the “correct” one? Come on ... Arkady! If you can, please delete all this meaningless "shit".
No need to edit "something like that". Especially not seeing the subjects. And, please note, in the second variant the color of the cat DOES NOT MEET the standard of Force point. I have been with these cats since 1974, and I know for sure that their points are dark brown, not almost black, and there should not be a purple tint outside of noints.
Vsevolod, I made the variant just to show you the yellowness of your frame. It doesn't seem to have helped, since you still insist on the truth of your own color. No D850 does miracles. The yellow frame remains yellow. You yourself persistently attached the frame, now you are writing about “meaningless bitch”. You need to be more calm about the opinions of other people.
Vsevolod don't argue, your frame is really too yellow. In Polo, it is taken away unnecessarily in lilac tones, but the essence does not change from this, your BB is too warm. And no one claims that you need to bring to 6500K, if you want to convey the features of the lighting available at the time, leave the frame a little warm, and not specifically yellow. By the way, I do not exclude the fact that on your monitor (for example, due to the fact that it is "cold") it seems that the frame is normal. But believe me - it is really too yellow, in any case, it is worth thinking about it.
And one more thing - don't react like that. There is no shit here, and if there is, it is only thanks to your efforts. I can't prove it, just take my word for it - specifically here they did not try to ridicule or offend you, but quite the opposite, they prompt you as needed, try to instill useful skills, good taste, if you will, so that your future photos become better, and the faster you realize this - so much the better for you.
Gentlemen! You probably forgot the thesis: “What light - such a color” ... And you did not see (sorry for repeating) the shooting scene. BB in camera Auto1, i.e. without keeping warm tones. If you read reviews, make sure that this camera practically does not make mistakes in working out the BB. As for taste ... I've been in photography for over 40 years. And I can instill good skills in different types of art myself (taking into account the teaching experience of 36 years) ... I repeat once again - the colors correspond to my home environment. I can invite Kievans to visit - to be convinced of this. And I repeat once again - the picture was posted solely to confirm the miracle: fifty dollars, which did not fall into focus on the excellent D7100 camera, with which 35 \ 1,8, 16-85, 105 \ 2,8G, 70-300VR, 70- 200VRII, suddenly started working on the 850th, starting to focus accurately and losing the shift focus. Unfortunately, Yandexfotki are closed, and apart from FB, where there are several albums with my photos (not pretending to be a masterpiece) ... If interested, take a look ... FB page Vsevolod Fainberg
If the frame with the cat was shot at 1.4, then we can’t talk about any confirmation of the absence of a focus shift.
Vsevolod, I looked at your cats on Yandex - how interesting they are. But the question arose from the photo: did you take this shot on a BB car? https://yadi.sk/a/IUs7B87X3YSn8s/5b32afb6404b0dcd40400e5d
A person talks about taste and 50 years of experience, and the output is trash and fumes, cats against the backdrop of d850 carpets and super-lenses, the shitty industrial in the last review of the finished d80 gives more joy than all this damn thing with your 35 \ 1,8, 16-85, 105 \ 2,8G, 70-300VR, 70-200VRII
Yes! Cat on the background of the carpet. Home shot. I don’t get into a background for kostynyh photos… You are wrong to abuse industries. I have 2 of them from the old days. Great lenses! The 61st shot at Zinit and Praktika better than their regular fifty dollars. Including - and slides. And when printing from 35mm to Crocus, it was Industar that installed. 50th or 61st. Much better than Polish.MIKARa. And from 6/6 I had to print with AMAR.
Polo, it makes sense to advocate for the correct BB, if everything else is just a protocol click of the shutter?
What is a correct BB? Compliance with reality or illusory-desired? To judge the color of a rose without seeing it is the pinnacle of a photographer's skill! As well as the taste of squid as described by Thor Heyerdahl from Travel to Kon-Tiki. To make the color of the skin of a hand pink without seeing it is a SKILL! In fact, my wife is incredibly dark. And the hand is light brown with a slight yellowish tinge ... Yes, what are we talking about! Gurus from photography (probably the winners of all existing competitions) gathered to teach the unlucky junior! It's funny!
And it’s especially funny to read about the distrust of the automation of the BB camera, recognized as the best in its class.
As the classic said - the correct BB is the BB in a good / beautiful / good photo.
This is the field of the Internet - they do not forgive anything here, just as they will not forgive an unsuccessful photo with a cat.
Here, on Radozhiv, as well as on a large number of forums, there are huge and long holy wars for white balance, color reproduction, etc. Situations reach the point of absurdity. Judging the camera's BB by one photo is a thankless task.
From any camera you can get an arbitrarily good color and bb, as well as an arbitrarily bad color. The only question is time and desire / skill. In a couple of years, the d850 will become another brick, nothing special outstanding, you need to work primarily on the ability to produce color in any conditions, with any technique.
Vsevolod, perception is based, among other things, on what color is considered appropriate. The sky can actually have a purple tint, but it is perceived better when it is blue or blue. Warm light also gives a spurious (unnecessary) hue. When we are in this environment, our eyes adjust. When we look at a photograph, we realize that the colors are distorted. It is impossible to tell in a few words, there is a whole science ...
.... Alas, you can't put BB on the carpet because it most likely was not initially white (meaning part of the pattern) ...
Yes, a normal photo without processing, just the BB is not configured.
But what claws :)
Valentin, I cannot understand what frame you are writing about. For some reason, it does not open for me. BB - AUTO1. I rarely rule it. D7100, as usual, sees everything according to reality.
There was a link to Yandex, frame _dsc9757.jpg
Valentine! I see ... Yandex photos are blocked in Ukraine.
As for perception, this is not a secret for anyone. But in this case, it's a home shot. Absolutely not claiming anything. And the matching of the colors of reality suited me. By the way, after looking at the revision, my wife was almost indignant at the pinkness (according to science, skin) of her hand ... And the meaning of the frame - once again - suddenly the lens started working, which I would have gotten rid of long ago if we had not sold them in dozens of them. I shared my joy on the forum, wanting to get an explanation for this amazing fact, but ran into a SUPER PRO ...
Their "diplomas and certificates in the studio !!!" And the photos are outstanding - to learn!
Compare this frame and the one that you spent earlier. The original color of the items did not change. The lighting was changing. White balance should bring colors to some common values. Either this frame is too cold, or the previous one is too warm, or both went in different directions. Actually, I just wanted to say that.
If you are about a frame with this cat on FB, then there was a flash. And she aligns everything with BB. In concert halls, much the same thing happens.
Important. In my opinion, any “_dsc9757.jpg” or “_DSC8431” on the poison is an absolute failure :). Now I’ll take the rabbit out of my sleeve and everyone will understand that we were talking about nothing here at all.
After all, all photos were taken in ADOBE RGB, as evidenced by the prefix of photos '_' preceding the name and number of the photo. Nikon cameras use these names by default for ADOBE RGB. Only very experienced photographers can work with him (I do not know any and I myself do not work with him). The main feature is that the color in this case is incorrect during normal manipulations and viewing by any standard means. And this is a typical mistake of many photographers, who are led by the message that ADOBE RGB allows you to save more shades :).
You are right, Arkady! This was a fallacy. Mike Toptygin explained in one of his videos, and I quickly dumped on sRGB
Arkady, only _dsc9757.jpg shot in nef and converted to jpg via LR. You cannot declare it wrong in advance, because the color space could be converted in the right way. And he was shot on the D7100 for this fifty dollars with F2 with automatic white balance. Vsevolod: in this case, too, had to focus with your hands, or did the automation work normally?
Inetovskie publications use only sRGB. Some photographers use “save for WEB” when preparing images in FS, otherwise there will be a difference in BB in ACDSee and in the built-in Windows viewer. And when printed, the pictures are also different from the on-screen ACDSee. But it is better to immediately correctly adjust the sRGB color profile in the FS and not practice dancing with a tambourine.
Onotole! You are probably a professional photographer recognized all over the world! And allowing himself, by virtue of his outstanding achievements, to teach strangers! It says a lot. Let me remind myself once again: “What kind of light - such a color” !!! But that's not the point. Try to find an old Soviet S-90 speaker system. See what color her body is. If you are from Kiev, I can invite you to see the real colors of what is in the picture. Although ... I understand that this is pointless.
It is very strange to see the transition to the discussion of my personality, especially (as it turned out) from a fairly adult person. This, if you didn't know, is ugly, to put it mildly. Well, most importantly, no matter how good or bad I am, the picture will not become a little less yellow from this.
"What kind of light is the same color" - can you link to the source?
You were the first to go personal. And in a rather crude form. Next ... The dandelion flower is yellow, whether you like it or not ... The objects in my frame are the same color as they were. Whether you like it or not. I don't need your consent. I am always happy to study and do it every day. But only for those people whose competence I know. The phrase “What light - such a color”, as it seemed to me, is known to everyone - artists, photographers…. In the concert hall, the faces of the musicians turn out to be blue, green, yellow, gray…. The only way to bring the skin to the "conventional" one in this kind of shooting is with a flash. In films in the same scene, with the movement of the camera, the color of the faces changes very often ... In the photo, I try to improve all the time. And I often get the approval of fellow professional photographers. And not just photographers. On I-pictures, several of mine were in the top. Arkady, by the way, made the right remark about the ADOB RSL. But I have already "moved out" from it a long time ago. I still could not understand why all the parameters of the frame change so during conversion. And colors, and contrast, and brightness. I got an explanation from Toptygin. And the sweeping “yellow shot” is not impressive. It was like this. You are in the theater, when the cannon illuminates the artist with blue light, you go to the illuminator and the director to find out why the hero's face was blue at that moment? And I have beige wallpaper at home, beige and yellow chandelier light ... And at the same time - a cat, carpet, speaker system, wife's hand, etc. - exactly the same color as in the picture. The shot is absolutely technical - to check the operation of the lens on a new camera. And look at the high ISO. And that's it! I wrote - no processing. And it seems to me that it was necessary to comment on the degree of focus. But no! How not to poke your face in the shit! And a completely unfamiliar person! And that my photos are shit, it's your opinion ... Maybe I wouldn't like yours either.
Show me where I discussed your identity and I apologize to you.
The well-known reference does not work. Everyone knows from childhood that salted water boils faster, and the facts say the opposite.
Your home is not a theater or a concert hall. And the lighting is not colored with a narrow spectrum, but full-spectrum, only with a warm (low color temperature) hue. This means that your image is deprived of the right to materially distort colors. But the fact that the picture is technical is quite an excuse. I don’t understand why you should balk when several people are telling you the same thing - they would have agreed long ago, they say, yes, they’re yellowish, well, this is because I didn’t pay attention to this, the goal was different. You continue, with a tenacity worthy of a better application, to assert that "a picture of the norms, you just were not at my place."
Check out my post about “shitty pictures and any person with a camera in hand,” but that's not the point. Someone wrote about the phone above ... It's great! I found artifacts in the picture posted here ... Even better! Come on, everybody, from time to time, wants to show off their professionalism. Tired of repeating information about this picture. But how to explain the presence of a shift focus at 7100 and its absence at 850? Just comparing.
Prepare a small study with examples of pictures, it will be more useful than arranging a floodlight here.
What pictures should I take? Now I can't get out to shoot with this camera and a new lens. I freaked out and bought 24-70VR. Only at home. And a couple of shots at work. The stab is wonderful! My biggest problem is tremors. And I always used very short exposures. About 4 FR. And for some reason this problem does not exist with this camera. Even at the exhibition, last October, I played it for 2 days with 85 \ 1,4G. Everything was sharp. Houses 70mm sharply by 1/15. This is with my terrible tremor. Amazing camera!
And how to post pictures here? I was only in Yafotki. Some 1600 photos remained there. After this site is covered, only in the FB sometimes I post something.
As you like, fill in where your soul desires, and then we'll figure it out
It could be - I could agree that the shot is warmer than I would like, if you and Polo did not start right away ... How to put it mildly, show erudition and professionalism. In the first post of Polo, given the text and circumstances, elementary envy can be traced ... Unless he has Nikon or Kenon units. And you saw the phone and the artifacts. And this is on FB! Where to view the photo in detail is impossible. As for the rest of my "shitty pictures", as I already wrote, this is your opinion ... One of many. Not the same as yours.
This is for Onotole
Yes, you lit up here ... As for me, I saw the first message on this page d850 50 \ 1.4 with a link to an incomprehensible photo. What am I to envy here? I wanted to know why it was posted at all. Then I read it to demonstrate the work of autofocus (and in words it was not clear that he had earned on another carcass). Nevertheless, I want to apologize, because I understand that I offended you with my comment. In the future, I will not allow any comments to your address.
OK! Accepted! Peace and friendship!
You really do not see the difference between the discussion of the subject (photographs in this case) and the personality of a person?
Onotole
16.09.2018 in 09: 32
Yes, at least 50 years. The more you are confident in your competence, the more difficult it will be to admit the fact that (I’m saying this in plain text) your pictures are really shit, in the sense that absolutely any person who picks up a camera for the first time will give the same level. And 40 years of experience in this case is an aggravating factor. And the expression of unwillingness to learn (and even in such an ultimatum form) - finally puts an end to the hope that you have something to change in the future. That's all I wanted to say.
Do you think this is just a discussion of photos ???
Exactly. In the process of discussing the photo, you tried to refer to your authority, I countered it with the fact that, firstly, authority is absolutely worthless (not only yours, anyone's), and secondly, the fact that it is the height of authority that does not allow accepting attention and admit the very possibility of fidelity to an opinion different from yours, for example, mine. I did not discuss your personality in any way, I did not build sarcastic, ironic assumptions about hypothetical outstanding achievements (this is a hint, if anything), etc. In principle, I could not do this, because, as you probably already managed to make sure, I simply do not believe in the power of authority (I can devote my whole life to something, but at the same time it can easily turn out to be an "upstart", right away who understands and understands everything better than me, and I think this is absolutely normal) - so why should I appeal to the personal qualities of my opponent, if they are worth nothing to me anyway? What is worth only the result produced by someone.
Second, I will debunk your idea of communication on the Internet. Here, absolutely everyone is both familiar and unfamiliar at the same time, in the sense that it does not matter. I (and you) shouldn't even, in an amicable way, contact you. You can consider this a mistake on my part. Nobody needs to befriend you to get the right to point out your mistake. Do you perceive this essence as a personal insult - I see this as a favor on the part of someone who did not pass by. Judge for yourself - there are 2 options: a) you are shown mistakes, you accept it and you have at least a chance to avoid them in the future, i.e. develop b) people look, they don't like something, but they just turn away indifferently (this is actually everywhere) - you don't get feedback and you just don't even have a chance to change the situation, you stay at the same level in a happy ignorance
And finally - the critic does not have to be able to do better, or even the same way. You don't have to lay three dozen chicken eggs (and everything is in accordance with GOST!) In order to be able to distinguish rotten from fresh. Or being a world famous chef with a delicate taste, to understand that his wife has once again salted pasta.
I will continue your thought to its logical conclusion - here not only you do not have to communicate, but it is also permissible to see the phone and artifacts where they are not simply not there, but where they cannot be seen ... The thesis about oversalted pasta amused, but I have to disappoint you. In our family, pasta is my prerogative. By the way ... are you, by chance, a nikonist? I would gladly give you this fifty kopeck piece complete with hoya hd as a bonus.
Arkady! You are absolutely right! Everything is now changing and improving very quickly ... Until recently, 7100 was the best crop (2013). I have been a regular on your site for many years. And I am happy to read your reviews and articles. And I am guided by them when choosing a technique and not only. I would love to meet you personally, but I understand that you are a busy person (like me, however). Do you have an explanation why this fifty dollar suddenly earned on a different camera? I honestly cannot understand this ...
Not the fact “that he earned” or “did not work”. There can be many nuances.
Did not work. There is a photographer Sasha Ivanov. Works at the Philharmonic. The picture on the FB, where I was at the piano, was taken by him with this fifty kopeck at 7100. He swore terribly, trying to “shoot” him on the score right on the stage. Later, by the way, using the advice of a local forum member, using the LP, I got a more or less optimal correction of -8. But focus got out of focus when apertured while shooting. The day before yesterday I checked the shift on a new camera. the focus was not shifted by 5,6. I shot a computer keyboard at an angle of about 30 - 40. At 7100 it didn't work.
And, of course, before the frames at 5,6, I removed the key control on the open.
Arkady! You have a wonderful site! Why can’t you make it so that you can simply attach the file?
I could have done this before, but I got about 20.000 of these files and the site greatly increased the load on the system. Therefore, he abandoned this idea. All previously attached files are in place.
This is all pitchfork on the water. Yes, and on f5.6, the focus is such that in normal shooting, the focus shift is blocked by the increase in depth of field and this is quite difficult to notice, unless you shoot on mdf.
The distance was about 60-70cm. But I will try again.
As for the attached files, as an option, you can make a limited storage time ... A month, for example. The FB recently made a day of storing posts. For example, I would be curious about the opinion of photographers who are really literate (and confirm their qualifications with pictures). Before I was active on Photora, but, in view of recent events, I only read threads that interest me.
It is very disappointing that we, in Ukraine, do not have a forum like Photor.
I took test shots of the keys on my computer. Distance approx. 60 cm. Angle approx. 45. f 1,4. 2, 2.8, 3,5, 4 - focus has not shifted.
Vsevolod, it was great if they contacted Arkady and suggested a review of the D850. This topic will become a top one and will support the site. You will also be interested in what Arkady will say about this camera and dig up fresh ones for all discoveries. If only Arkady had the time and desire to make such a review. Probably, many would be revered with pleasure.
After Borisa's suggestion, what did Vsevolod blow off?
There is a question: I bought some ancient fix nikor 50 1.4 WITHOUT AUTO FOCUS. I have a D2h camera. This camera has a focus motor. will autofocus work ???
In no case will not.
Depending on which, indicate the exact spelling of his name on the body or front lens, including with the serial number, they will tell you.
The patterns on the glass and the flowers come out very artistically at this depth, but as a portrait photographer - extremely boring glass. Here the phrase: “The image quality provided by the Nikon 50mm F1.4G lens” takes on a second meaning. )
I bought 50 1.4g the other day, I don’t know, maybe it’s so lucky, I compare it with my old 1.8g, and on the 1.8 aperture, a fifty-fifty 1.8g wins in sharpness. Focus is accurate, but slightly worse than 1.8g.
1.4g should be a little sharper. https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Compare/Side-by-side/AF-S-Nikkor-50mm-f-1.4G-on-Nikon-D750-versus-Nikon-AF-S-Nikkor-50mm-F18G-on-Nikon-D750__199_975_435_975
Open “Measurements” - “Sharpness” - “Field map” - there you can see the degree of sharpness across the field of the frame for different apertures. But on 1.8 both cannot be compared unfortunately. At 2.8 aperture, 1.4g is sharper.
The reason for the lack of lenses with an aperture of more than 1.4 lies in the F mount. It simply does not support them.
https://www.onfoto.ru/news/10/6411.html
According to Gillette, the main limitation of the traditional Nikon F mount is that it is not physically compatible with autofocus lenses with aperture greater than f / 1.4.
Thanks to the discussion thread, the nikon 50mm f1,4G turned into a mutaten thanks to Vsevolod, with his cats with 850 7100 photos, curves and other poison. Moderators can clean the slag from Vsevolod.
Friends, if you put a 50mm filter on 1.4 / 52G through the lowering ring, will the vignetting on the crop significantly increase (D40)?
From 52 to 58? I think it will be very tangible. I think even if 52 by 54 is already a collective farm. Each diameter has its own filter.
Hello. Advise the guys, there is this lens for $ 255 almost never used. Is it worth it to buy, or dig up at 85-1.8G?
Think of your needs. 50mm FF universal lens. And the reporting and portrait and even the landscape. And in small rooms of norms. 85mm is already a more specific focus.
85ka is a more interesting glass. But even without fifty dollars in some situations - nowhere.
I have 50 / 1.8G but I also tried 50 / 1.4.
Ideally - 50 / 1.4 or 58 / 1.4 + 85 / 1.4 or 105 / 1.4. For 1.8 is sharp, but not artistic.
As I understand it, you want to make a choice for you that suits you better? 50 vs 85? :)
A good used copy of 50 1.4g in the region of 7 thousand UAH is definitely worth the money. I bought one myself. An interesting picture, albeit 1.4-1.6 soft. It doesn’t focus quickly, but it’s very accurate that it’s on the crop and the D750. If we consider a new one, then I would better take Tamron 35 1.8 with a stub. Brutal glass. I am more preferable to a wider angle. And he is also worth his money, even for a new copy.
Compare 85 and 50))
I’ll also insert my cents in this noisy thread.
I’ll make a reservation right away, I’m a teapot, and I still have little understanding of the technical details.
But I can, as a person with an art education, share his observations. And the thrill of work.
I would definitely not compare 85 and 50. Even though my 50 on the crop is no longer quite 50))
The drawing is exactly different. 50 is softer, but darker in the same lighting (this is not the whole, my exposure errors, which are all too often, I'm talking about some kind of internal “glow” of the picture). 85 lighter and more transparent, or something. And more close to reality. Due to FR, there is always a feeling that you are somewhere in the picture. 50 is “its own reality”, embellished, as if slightly varnished. Because of the softness of the pattern, most likely. They seem to have a different philosophy, or something.
It focuses on me 85 faster (Although I took the lenses on the little girl, one class).
I am a beginner, so usually pulls to clamp the aperture a little more, even in portraits of at least 3. But on the general character of the picture, it’s a bit soft, in 50 this does not affect.
By the way, the sharpness is very well pulled by Nikonovsky programmina, if the photo itself in the original is not noisy.
Bottom line: I shoot 50 less, because I shoot large portraits more, but the lens is simply irreplaceable.
If your artistry is at least 1 percent dependent on mm lens, then the question must be posed: what do you mean by that? How little needs to be done in the shooting so that the client is satisfied or the non-critical viewer sees only the subject and the smaller environment?
And I don’t understand where to see the real price for them, because in online stores you won’t understand if they are available or not. Maybe they generally have this price a hundred years ago? ..
https://hotline.ua/av-obektivy/nikon_af-s_nikkor_50mm_f14g/prices/?gclid=CjwKCAiAv9riBRANEiwA9Dqv1eRpOPEx7v7ikuQpJH5YryY561PV_xIxG1slgLoR0Y7pu4cOBbjY0xoCEkgQAvD_BwE#1/0
What is there to understand? In my experience on a photobridge, as a rule, if they write what is available, then it is really available. Moreover, these online stores nearby have about the same price.
Please tell me, is this lens suitable for Nikon D5200? I understand correctly that due to the crop factor, the frame size will be like at 75mm?
Yes that's right
I’ll clarify for Victoria: the picture in width from this lens on the 1,5 crop will be like 75 mm on the FF (here it is EFR) and the same as 50 mm on the zoom, say, 18-55. Do not think that since the lens is for the FF, the focal length will be different from the same on the DX lens.
This is the best fifty dollars. You should have it, just don’t put it on the crop, otherwise it’s a tear
Arkady, could you reload the archives with RAW files somehow to more friendly services, for example, the same Google disk? For it does not seem that the blocking of mail.ru and I. disk will ever be lifted.
I will try. Archives are not only for this review
Yes, it was not only this review that was meant, although I certainly understand that the amount of work is huge. Thank you in advance!
Question to the owners. I bought this lens and faced this problem: a terrible focus dumbass. If I shoot a lot and in motion it happens that the lens simply refuses to focus and that's it! Only shutdown helps. It often misses if the object is 5 meters or more, it gives poor sharpness at this distance, even if you close the aperture to 3-4.
At the same time, it is quite harsh in thoughtful, leisurely frames. Soaps soap well. At 1.4, the flu is very small, but this is the norm.
Has anyone encountered a focus problem? Thanks!
On the D7100 and D5100 it happened sometimes, even when taking pictures slowly.
With the D750 and D80, fifty hasn’t done much yet.
Good day. And how does the focus work when you shoot in batches?
The thing is tmo. that I'm new, my hand is weakly stuffed.
But when shooting from 3 fps with a fairly high probability, I get 1-2 sharp frames per series, even at shutter speeds in the region of one hundred on this lens. Not indoors, during the day (normal illumination) and adequate exposure - there are no problems at all. I rarely shoot outside the 2,5-4 range.
But one thing is for sure, the speed is lower than 85 mm.
Not so long ago I purchased this lens in a new state for 5 UAH (about 000 dollars), a person sold his entire Nikon optics park, including a carcass, in connection with the transition to Sony's full-frame mirrorless mirror.
Before that I used 1.8D out of fifty dollars, I can't say anything bad about it: sharp, fast. I used it on the crop, D7100, but on the crop, fifty dollars are really neither one nor the other - as the standard one is too narrow, and for a portrait I had a different lens at that time.
Now, in fact, the case: glass is just fine. He shot waist and shoulder portraits on a completely open, and was surprised by the sharpness at 1.4. Of course, you need to try so that with sharp eyes your nose does not blur =). For facial portraits, of course, 50 mm is not enough, which is on the crop, that on the FF.
Very pleased with the lens!
Perhaps, I understood what the plus, and in some situations - minus. You have to be very careful with the angle and light. All other things being equal, 85mm 1.8 is slightly sharper, but also less contrasting. Somehow it so happened that I don't like contrasting photos. This property manifests itself again, all other things being equal. Of course, if you carefully choose the right lighting and background, you can still get what you want. But when compared with the harsh light from a window, for example, the contrast will be greater in 1.4. Sometimes, when you miss a little with the exposure, it is more likely to give out overexposure in a bright area. I don't know what this is connected with ...
It seems to me that you attach too much attention to the technical side =). There was a link on your profile 500px, wonderful photos, just take pictures for your pleasure. But, of course, this is just my personal opinion.
I bought 50mm 1.4G as new and sold my 1.8G, also like new
in 1.8G, the focus was perfectly accurate, in 1.4G, it was exactly open, and the focus shift on other (slightly covered) apertures makes them conditionally working
but at 1.4G I’m still in the corners (or just in an off-focus zone), where there is foliage on the ground, I didn’t see the chromaticity or something that makes the picture loose and ugly (cloudy)
here is an example of the lower left corner of 1.8G. below about the same. and right too
f / 2.5 aperture. I certainly understand that the object is out of focus and should be blurred. but not so
Arkady, good afternoon!
I have Nikon 5200 in my hands (I plan to be with him for another two years, then I will switch to a more professional crop), a whale 18-55, 70-300 and I will buy in the summer 17-55 2.8.
I want to buy a fifty dollars in the near future. In theory, 50 and 1.8g and 1.4g. for me, a amateur photographer who loves to shoot in manual mode, both are quite suitable.
1.8 says autofocus speed and greater reliability compared to 1.4g.
For 1.4 says the greatest possible artistry of images and in fact everything.
Does it make sense for me to think about 1.4g? They say that from experience they say you still don't shoot at 1.4 so often - more often 1.8 and you already set the aperture. Is the reliability of 1.8g higher than 1.4g? (after all, both China)
1.8g balanced solution, take it
Got it!)
And if the question of money is not worth it? In that case, what would be your advice?
PSAbout reliability comparison. Just 50 1.8g weighs some 180g (versus 280-290 for 1.4g). Such a light weight is a bit confusing.
If the question is not worth the money, then 58 / 1.4G. Weight does not matter.
Arkady, you forgot to mention the wild meringue (green fringing in the blur zone), which is visible to the naked eye. It would be interesting to know at what aperture values it disappears (if disappears at all).
My first lens was a fifty-fifty 1.4D lens. I sold it six months ago and now I’m looking at 1.4G. I would like to know your opinion regarding the comparison of these two fifty dollars.
If we talk about speed, then the nikkor 50mm 1,4G is just braking, rarely misses the focus, but while it is aimed at the target it can roll from zero to infinity 1,5-2 times, and this happens very slowly, after buying the nikkor 28mm 1,8G I stopped wearing 50mm at all and sold it in exchange. I want 58mm 1,4G I agree that it’s not cheap, but I don’t like to use the focus of 50 here back here. In terms of picture quality, there was no claim to it., Paints beautifully in part, even plastic.
I put it through the adapter on the Z6 .... and lo and behold ... the open 1.4 aperture played with gorgeous sharpness ... by the way, the sharpness is 1.4 better than that of 50 1.8 by 1.8 ... but it's on the BZ ... you don't want to look at the ZK more and don't want to take it in your hands
Apparently, such a DSLR. I also noticed that on an open 1.4G sharper than 1.8G
D750 and D610 .... 750 is better ... 610 has a very poor focus ... Z is just a fairy tale
Dear Arkady, you have a mess here: "the repair cost"
Hello Arkady, I bought a Tamron 28-75 2.8 on your advice, I am very satisfied. Many thanks again) Do not tell me which 50mm is better to choose: Nikkor 1.4G or Sigma 50mm 1.4 DG HSM EX presented in the review? Emphasis on the best image quality. The compact size of the Nikkor is desirable, but if the sigma is better in sharpness and XA, weight and size can be sacrificed.
Nikkor 1.4 is $ 80 more expensive, which makes it more relevant to compare the 1.8G and Sigma 1.4 EX, which cost almost the same. Is it worth paying extra for Nikkor?
If AF works correctly with your camera, you can take Sigma. https://radojuva.com/2014/08/sigma-50-mm-1-4-dg-hsm-ex/