Nikon D5100 review

For the opportunity Nikon D5100 body camera review Many thanks to Sergey Svirida.

Nikon D5100 review

Nikon D5100 review

I want to write everything at once about the Nikon D5100 - it's just awesome multimedia harvester, which manages to squeeze just the prohibitive image quality. In this review, information is only about the camera itself Nikon D5100 body. Very often, the Nikon D5100 is sold along with universal lenses, and this set is called Kit. Usually in a set Nikon D5100 Kit such lenses as:

The best option is an 18-200mm lens, it is enough for all occasions - from a wide angle for a landscape or a small apartment, to photographing birds and bunnies. If you still need to start somewhere, then the kit lens 18-55m is quite suitable, and do not believe that the kit lens is so terrible, just important how to take pictures, and not on what technique. For portrait shooting, I advise you to look towards the lens Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S Nikkor, and as a good sharp fast aperture fixed lens for every day can act Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G AF-S DX Nikkor.

View of the Nikon D5100 camera from different angles

View of the Nikon D5100 camera from different angles

Nikon D5100 - This is an amateur SLR camera from Nikon, a highly updated version of the Nikon D5000. The camera can shoot Full HD video and take pictures at a speed 4 frames per second.

Sample photo on Nikon D5100

Sample photo on Nikon D5100

Important points:

Matrix Nikon D5100 matrix based Nikon D7000. The matrix Nikon D7000 can give out a picture high dynamic range, excellent color reproduction and low noise at high ISO. The Nikon D5100 does the same. When I took the first test shots on Nikon D5100 and ISO 6400, I was just amazed at the image quality. The result was really very juicy and lively picture, and this is at 16,2 megapixels, because in this review there are many night photos as examples. ISO camera can be set from value 100 to 25,600, values ISO 12.800. и ISO 25.600. are denoted as Hi1 и Hi2, I do not recommend shooting at such high ISO.

Nikon D5100 installed CMOS 16.2-megapixel sensor. Yes, the Nikon D5100 has as much as 16,2MP, which is the same as that of Nikon D7000 and full frame Nikon D4. More megapixels can only be found in the very expensive Nikon D3x, Nikon D800,D800E, D3200, D600, D5200 (at the time of writing). The number of megapixels is not a serious indicator of the quality of a photograph, but still, the more the better. If you are chasing megapixels, I advise you to pay attention to my note Battle of Megapixels. I shoot 6.2 megapixel without any problems Nikon D40I advise you to go to the review page Nikon D40 and make sure that even at 6.2MP you can get an excellent image result.

Nikon D5100 uses a sensor manufactured by Sony, the same sensor is found in cameras:

Photo on Nikon D5100

Photo on Nikon D5100 - saturated colors of the camera

Actually, the matrix is ​​the heart of the camera, and the better it is, the better your photographs will be. Nikon D5100 has the same matrix size as the more advanced ones Nikon D7000, D90, D300s. The Nikon D5100 APS-C sensor available, which means that the matrix is ​​2.25 times smaller in area than the matrix of full-frame SLR cameras, such as Nikon D700 or D3s. This entails an effect. crop factor. When using lenses from full-frame cameras, the viewing angle will be narrower than on film or in a full frame. More details in the article Crop Factor.

Sample photo on Nikon D5100

Sample photo on Nikon D5100

Other important points that really affect the operation and functionality of the camera

  1. Large rotary display. The display has 921.000 points. Nikon D5100 uses the same number of pixels as the camera D3, D3s, D3x, D700, D300, D300s, D90, D7000, D3200 и Nikon D5200
  2. Very fast EXPEED-2 processor, with which the camera shows excellent speed.
  3. Nikon D5100 uses 11 focus pointsfor which the focus module is responsible Nikon Multi-CAM 1000. The same module is on such cameras as Nikon D90, D3100, D3000, D80, D200 and D5000. Focusing is accurate. Focusing speed is highly dependent on the lens and shooting conditions.
  4. Measurement exposure implemented using a 420-pixel sensor, the same as that of Nikon D80, D90, D60, D40x, D50, D5000 and D3100. The camera measures the exposure perfectly, the only one, because Active is on D-lighting the camera sometimes exposes the frame.
  5. The shooting speed is 4 frames per second. This is just a little less than 4.5 fps for a more advanced Nikon D90. 4 fps is enough for any type of shooting. Even a full-frame professional Nikon D800 can shoot a maximum of 4k \ s. Personally, I always have enough even 2.5 frames per second on my old woman Nikon D40. A high rate of fire is needed only for certain situations. A high rate of fire requires a large frame buffer and a fast memory card. For example, when I reviewed the Nikon D5100, the camera used a slow 8GB SD flash drive. Since I was shooting in RAW for review, the camera was very slow after 2 seconds of shooting in fast mode. Due to the fact that RAW files from the camera weigh about 15mb, I had to wait a very long time until the files were written to the memory card. Indeed, the whole charm of fast continuous shooting at 4 fps can be estimated by shooting only in JPEG.
  6. Frame buffer when shooting in RAW format is 11 frames. This is as much as that of Nikon D90 when shooting in RAW. How much the camera will slow down during serial shooting will greatly depend on the buffer capacity. In an earlier model Nikon D3100, frame buffer is 13 pieces in RAW.
  7. Attention: Nikon D5100 Nikon's first amateur camera to use RAW with 14 bit color depth. This is very good news for fans of processing RAW photos. Unfortunately, like all Nikon amateur cameras, the D5100 does not have a choice of RAW compression levels or a choice of color depth.

    Example photo on Nikon D5100

    Example photo on the Nikon D5100. Snowy glass.

  8. Full HD movie shooting 1980 * 1080, with maximum quality you can shoot videos up to 20 minutes long. Believe me, 20 minutes is enough for the video. You can choose different shooting modes in different quality. Another important detail to shoot video on the desired aperture, you first need to install it, and therefore already enable Live View and start recording. When Live View is on, aperture change is not available.
  9. Convenient menu and overall camera ergonomics. At first, it might seem that controlling the camera with one hand is difficult, but then you can quickly get used to the control.

    Example photo on Nikon D5100 at high ISO

    Example photo on Nikon D5100 at high ISO

  10. A bunch of useful additions - automatic correction of distortion, aberration, Active D-lighting, Breckening, Live View, Timelapse, etc. Important! Automatic correction of distortion and chromatic aberration is removed only when shooting in JPEG.
  11. The camera has one great feature - HDR. HDR takes two frames with different exposures and saves them in one file. Very comfortable and interesting. The HDR function is not available when shooting in RAW. The HDR function is conveniently programmed with the FN button.

    Example photo on Nikon D5100 at very high ISO

    Example photo on Nikon D5100 at very high ISO

  12. A little about the shortcomings - this is an amateur camera, because in the camera no many features from more advanced or professional cameras. Personally very important to me fast flash sync, flash command modeFine tune focus manual exposure metering and availability focus motor - Nikon D5100 doesn't have them. Highly I consider “picture braking” a strong drawback when sighting through Live View and approaching the image area 1 to 1 (or similar) - the picture slows down quite a lot. There is no such effect on Nikon D90. Such an approximation helps to very accurately sharpen the desired focus point.

All sample photos on the Nikon D5100 from this review were shot in RAW -> JPEG, without processing, only resized to 720 * 477 pixels with imprinted EXIF in order to be able to judge the shooting parameters. Please note that at high ISO photos are more or less acceptable.

Example photo on the Nikon D5100. Loss of juiciness of the color gamut when raising ISO

Example photo on the Nikon D5100. Loss of juiciness of the color gamut when raising ISO

Recommendations

In order to speed up focusing, use the optical viewfinder. When focusing in Live View, the focusing accuracy will be very high, but the speed will be very slow, since the camera and the lens will need to measure contrast at different focusing distances and only then put the lens in the desired position. When focusing through the optical viewfinder (through the eye), the camera is much quicker to cope with focusing. It is for this reason that older cameras such as Nikon D300, D300s, D700 etc., there are two Live View shooting modes. These are tripod mode and hand mode. In hand-held mode and Live View on, when you press the shutter button halfway, Live View turns off and autofocusing occurs through the phase sensors, after a successful focus is achieved, Live View turns on again.

Photo at Nikon D5100 at low ISO in low light

Photo at Nikon D5100 at low ISO in low light

If desperately needed maximum frame buffer, then you need to turn off all functions that reduce the number of photos in the buffer. I think you will be surprised when in paragraph 5 it is written about 11 frames in the buffer, but in reality there will be less of them. The number of frames that the buffer can fit is shown in the lower right corner of the viewfinder when you press the shutter button halfway. Usually, with noise reduction turned on for high ISOs and slow shutter speeds, as well as when active D-lighting the number of frames in the buffer drops sharply. Therefore, by disabling these functions you can get the claimed 11 frames. Well, if you do not need RAW, then in high-quality JPEG with advanced settings enabled 16 frames - and this is for 4 seconds of continuous shooting. It is unlikely that someone takes a burst of longer than 4-5 seconds.

Photo on Nikon D5100

Photo on Nikon D5100

When you place the camera in a case (in a photo bag), turn the display with the dark side out, and the LCD monitor in the middle so that the monitor does not scratch during transportation. If shooting in JPEG, I recommend turning on noise reduction at high ISOs and slow shutter speeds. For a saturated picture you can use Active D-lighting in HIGH mode. You can also configure the FN programmable button, which is located next to the flash up button. I usually program the FN button for the ISO control function.

Sample photos on Nikon D5100 using a lens Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S Nikkor. Photos without processing.

Don't know what to choose?

Usually, a person who wants to buy a camera of this level stops at 2-3 Nikon models. it Nikon D3100, Nikon D5000, Nikon D5100, D5200. I recommend taking a simpler model Nikon D3100, which can do the same thing as the D5100, but its price is much less. D5100 is more suitable for those who like to shoot in poor lighting conditions at high ISO. Saturation and image quality on the D5100 and D3100 very similar to low and medium ISO. Of course newer Nikon D5200 in many ways beats the Nikon D5100.

D5000 D5100 D5200
Exit time June 2009 April 2011 November 2012
RAW color depth 12 bit 14 bit 14 bit
Number of megapixels 12,20 16,08 24,00
Burst Speed 4 fps 4 fps 5 fps
Minimum ISO 200,00 100,00 100,00
Minimum Extensive ISO 100 (Lo1) - -
Maximum ISO 3200,00 6400,00 6400,00
Maximum Extended ISO 6400 (Hi1) 25600 (Hi2) 25600 (Hi2)
Video length max. qualities 5 minutes 20 minutes 20 minutes
Video 1280 x 720 24fps 1920x1080 30fps 1920 x 1080 60i
Sound mono mono stereo
Display 2.7 inches, 230.000 points 3 inches, 921.000 points 3 inches, 921.000 points
Focus module Multi-cam 1000 Multi-cam 1000 Multi-CAM 4800DX
Number of Focus Points 11,00 11,00 39,00
Measurement exposure 420-pixel RGB sensor 420-pixel RGB sensor 2016-pixel RGB sensor
Memory cards SD,SDHC SD, SDHC, SDXC SD, SDHC, SDXC (UHS-I)
Weight without battery, g 550,00 510,00 505,00
HDR no Yes Yes

I do not recommend buying an older Nikon D5000, it does not have autofocus when shooting video, and it is quite difficult for an ordinary user to focus on sharpness manually.

By the way here a list of all CZKs from Nikonmaybe he will help in choosing.

Photo on Nikon D5100

Photo on Nikon D5100


Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.

Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.

Conclusions

Nikon D5100 gives a very good picture one click on the shutter button. Camera for photo lovers who just need a good result in a photo without unnecessary troubles. Full HD and a swivel display makes the camera even more attractive. Given that the camera has a matrix of very high quality Nikon D7000then Nikon D5100 can be used by advanced amateurs as well.

Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram

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Comments: 1 914, on the topic: Nikon D5100 review

  • Natalia

    Good evening everyone) Please tell me, now there are 25 thousand shutter releases on the camera, how to find out how many there are in total? I did not find it in the Instructions ... I started taking photos more professionally, and I'm afraid that at some crucial moment the camera will fail ...

    • Valery A.

      Kind. Yes they say 100 thousand should snap.

      • Natalia

        Thank you very much!!!

    • Charles

      Guaranteed quantity for amateur models is not indicated. If we get lucky. By the way, the quantity guaranteed by professional cameras also does not guarantee anything, sorry for my French.

    • Igor

      On my already 170000 and nothing, the flight is normal !!!

    • Mikola

      Є program, for the sake of helping you can take the skills of the frame in zeros. Just take the rest of the photo, enter it and it says all the parameters with some pictures taken.

    • Aleksandr

      For example, the Exif Pilot program. Free. Download, install, upload a photo to it. Then in the EXIF ​​tab find the ShutterCount position. The number from the numbers opposite will be the serial number of the “camera run”.

  • Zhenya

    Hello. Arkady, tell me, please.
    I have B5100 + 17-50 Tamron. I want to take some more for portraits. I think - either 50mm or 85mm 1.8ft. Tell me, won't the 85 be too narrow for my crop? What's better?
    I rent: families, portraits, reportage shooting
    Thank you

    • Arkady Shapoval

      85mm indoors will be extremely difficult, but where there is enough space with 85tkoy the result will be more interesting than with 50mm.

  • Victor Stargazer

    Please tell me, I have a Nikon 5100 and it’s already twice that the battery was completely off and the memory card had a spontaneous black image both times with the date reset. After charging the battery, the date turned out to be correct again. What is it and what is it connected with ?????

    • Onotole

      I had this on D600 three times in two years, the last time was about a month ago. Moreover, when I discovered this, the device was noticeably warm in the area of ​​the handle, I stuck in a second battery (with half the charge) and the photon burned it out at once, with the same result. I have no idea what is the reason, but I noticed long ago that Nikon's cameras of seemingly different eras, class and price tag have absolutely the same bugs. How, for example, with the disappearance of a part of the photos just taken without a trace, have you not yet had this?

    • Gregory

      Late, of course, but nonetheless.
      Trouble may be due to the stabilizer in the lens. Before storage it is necessary to turn it off (stabilizer).

      • Denis

        as the version has the right to life, in combination with a software or hardware glitch
        Before turning off, I never looked in what state the stabilizer switch. but d5100 had no problems with self-discharge

        • BB

          My D5100 will completely drain the battery for about a month if the baht is connected. block (Chinese, since the original does not exist), moreover, the switch on the butblock is off, if it is on, even faster. In this case, the carcass lies without a lens. Without a batblock, the device can calmly lie for 2-3 months without discharging the battery (there are simply no more than 3 months breaks for this carcass)

          • BB

            PS There isn’t such a thing with the D7100 and the non-original batlock, it’s been two months, from 18-105, the charge is more than 80%

  • Victor Stargazer

    there wasn’t such a thing so far. only these spontaneous shots with the reset date and connected charging.

    • Onotole

      Many here wrote about the similar (loss of frames) on a variety of cameras (nikon). If you rewind the question-answer section of pages 5-10 back, you can find it.

  • Dmitriy

    Good day. Tell me which camera to take better and why Nikon D5100 + Nikon 18-105 mm VR or Canon 7D Digitalkamera mit EF-S 18-55mm. Thank you in advance for your advice and answers.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Here, the choice is no longer in the camera, but in the kit. The choice is completely different without indicating needs and photo tasks. There is no single correct answer. For a beginner, just right will be d5100 + 18-105

  • Nika

    Thanks for the review.

  • Nataly

    Hello!
    I ask for advice on which camera to choose, I have a D3000, the quality of the photos is good, but I would like to have a moving display and an integrated flash.
    I changed the lens to AF-S Nikkor 18-200 DX,
    I am a lover
    I like to travel and take pictures of nature, landscapes and architecture as well as family celebrations.
    From your reviews, is the D5100 suitable for me? Or is there already something newer at that level?
    Thanks in advance

    • Arkady Shapoval

      With swivel display, darkness of cameras. D5100-D5200-D5300-D5500 the higher the serial number, the better the camera.

  • Cat pirate

    They are certainly better, BUT .. already 24MP. The question is whether the 18-200 will pull such a matrix. A fool himself bought a D5200 for 18-300, a good "soap factory" turned out)))

    • Peter Sh.

      1. When compressing the size to 6 megapixels, there will be no difference with the fast fix. No one will watch photos with a resolution of 24 megapixels and with an increase of 100% on the display of a laptop or smartphone.
      2. The difference in printing will be visible only on the A0 format. And then if you look at point blank with a magnifying glass. Which again, no one ever does.

      • Dima

        If you shoot for drains, then this is PPC as critical. Therefore, it is better not to buy such shit-zoom lenses))) Especially for 16+ megapixels. 18-105 barely pulls d 5100.

  • Nataly

    Thank you all!
    I realized that I will focus on the D5100
    I am going to Iguazu Falls and I will take pictures of nature
    How can I protect the camera from splashes - are there any special devices?
    And how can one take pictures under such conditions?

    • Michael

      There are special equipment, but you can completely get by with a plastic bag with an elastic band

    • 1Ds_mk3

      Aquabox, if it’s completely wet. But I'm afraid that it will be more expensive than the cost of the d5100 and the lens.
      Buy d7000 right away there was like moisture protection. Or, as an option, buy two d5100s at once. If one dies from moisture, dry it and you will shoot on the other. Well, or throw it out.

  • Georgy

    Please tell me which iso d5100 is guaranteed not to make noise?

    • BB

      “Noise” is a subjective matter. Guaranteed to be quiet at ISO 200 and with good light. And so - my first camera Panasonic FZ800 makes much less noise at ISO 400 than at ISO 50.
      At ISO 1000, it produces a very suitable and high-quality picture with the correct exposure (if there is a lack of light, then there is more noise). ISO 1600 is practically a working “ceiling” for this camera, 2000 is the most extreme case (I try not to use such a value), if it’s really “pinched”, but the noise is already decent. 2400 and higher - color and detail are already lost, something can be removed, but this can no longer be called quality.
      PS experience of use - since 2011, more often in poor lighting conditions. I always shoot RAW for post processing.

    • Dima

      up to 1600 is acceptable. If for drains, then the limit is 800. On Nikon d800, photos were taken taken on ISO 2500. The power of a full frame and a good matrix)

  • Natalia

    Hello. Please help with the choice ..
    I used to shoot on Nikon D3100, in automatic mode ... I didn’t really want to go deep ... I said goodbye to him more than a year ago ..
    Now, I still want to look deeper and understand ...
    To start, I choose among several budget options:
    1. Nikon D5100 + 18-105
    2. Nikon D3200 + 18-105
    3. Kenon 600D + 18-135 or 18-200
    First of all, you need a camera to learn and understand the basics ... I want to shoot nature and fauna .. Night city ... I really like macro photography .. and my beloved little son .. I also want to get to Shutterstock and other photo banks ...
    Please just don’t laugh with me ... I just often read that you cannot give an exact answer, because Do not understand the needs of those asking for advice in choosing a camera ..
    Thanks in advance 😙

    • Egor

      Sometime in 2013 I faced a similar choice and chose your option 1. Nikon D5100 is definitely better than the 3x00 series with a rotating display - you can shoot on top of a crowd, and vice versa, put the camera on the ground to take a macro shot, turn it towards yourself. The rotary display is especially indispensable for shooting with manual optics, where you need to monitor the focus. Also, the 16 Mp D5100 is better than the marketing 24 Mp of the D3200 - the pictures weigh a little, the conversion is faster.
      The Nikon 18-105 mm lens is good for everything except the plastic mount (I changed it twice in 5 years) and the large front lens (a protective or UV filter is required - once it broke and saved the lens). By the way, the autofocus 18-105ki is the best of all that I have met, that is, just to shoot a child or for active travel. But for evening scenes with a child or for indoor lighting, it will be dark. If you come across this problem and don't want to raise the ISO, you can then buy yourself a Nikon 50 mm 1.8G.
      And about Canon - here is the choice of the system, Canon seems to me purely subjectively unergonomic, I am simply more comfortable with Nikon. I tried both the 600D, and the thousandth series, and even the second dime - they didn't like it.

      • Natalia

        Thank you so much for the extensive answer. Tell me please, but instead of Nikon 50mm 1.8G, NIKKOR AF-S 35mm f / 1.8G is suitable? And which lens is better than 18-105 or 18-140?
        I choose between two options:
        First set:
        - Nikon D5100 SLR Camera
        Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-140mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR lens
        Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 35mm f / 1.8G Lens

        The second kit is still the same, only NIKON D5300 18-105 VR KIT, instead of 18-140mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR

        • Natalia

          And at the same price the Third set:
          Nikon D5100 + Nikkor 35 mm + Tamron 18-270 VC

          • B. R. P.

            Take the first set.

            • Natalia

              Thank you.

  • Artem

    Good day. I use this camera and such a question arose. Third-party firmware allows you to change the RAW compression level by selecting lossless compression \ normal compression \ without compression. Does it make sense to use lossless compression \ without compression?

  • Vladimir

    My Nikon 5100 often "misses" with autofocus when aiming at a face: it clings to any details of the foreground or background, and the face gets blurry. As a result, there are a lot of spoiled frames. And in general, it feels like the best sharpness in completely different shooting conditions is obtained only at f5.6. At f3.5 - 5, everything is soapy. They say it's about the kit 18-105 lens

    • Denis

      I noticed this. most likely when the face takes up less space in the frame than the area the sensor is working on

      • Mikola

        I know that on FIXI ABOUT 18-105, then I put a point on the issue and I don’t miss. True, do not wait for good, but more beautifully miss the promises.

        • Denis

          this point is not exactly a point, the focusing area is actually larger than the square on the LCD

  • Nicholas

    I read the review. Now I’m thinking. Which is better to take. d5100 s 18-105 or d5200 s 18-55. goals of course to shoot a family, nature. I want to try portraits and nature. very captivating 24mp. but I want a more versatile lens. I am new to the photo. I want to grow in this regard. tell the experts.

    • Oleg

      Do not be fooled by these 24 megapixels, my advice to you. Choose a better lens. 24 for a crop is a lot and is useless, in my opinion. My camera currently has 12, and even that, believe me, is enough. In general, it is correct to buy a lens, and already for delivery - a camera, and not vice versa.

      • Novel

        I will support. Good glasses live for decades.

      • Nicholas

        Thanks a lot. I have decided. I will take nikon d5100 c 18-105

        • anonym

          Use NEF, and development / correction in ACDSee.

          • Pokemon

            Why AcdSee when there is a free full-time Nikon converter Capture NX2 / Capture NX-D

            • anonym

              In my opinion, ACDSee gives a much better result with less body movements.
              Capture NX-D haven't tried it. And these: Capture NX2. Lightroom. RawTherapee. ViewNX 2. Well, first in the list ...
              It's simple. You process one RAW in different programs and at the same time compare the result, let's say in FastStone Image Viewer.

              • Pokemon

                Everyone has a different experience.
                CAPTURE NX-D of the latest versions reached the level of paid (which can now be downloaded only from torrents) CAPTURE NX2 of the latest versions.
                Nikon programs take time to master, but they are better suited for thoughtful picking of Nikon RAVs and, as for me, allow you to squeeze more out of RAW than third-party converters.

            • anonym

              Well, even I sat in the CAPTURE NX-D for half an hour, trying to wind up the skin tone that I got in acdsee, all some kind of mask turns out. I stay with my ...)

  • anonym

    Hello! By Nikon D5100 acquired flash SB-910. Unfortunately, in the Detailed User Guide on pages 203-205, all tabular information ends with the data for the SB-900. Maybe I have an outdated Guide. Perhaps someone has updated data. Share please.

  • DimDimych

    Good day! I received my Nikon D5100 gift recently in the form of glass 35 1.8G. After the only 18-105 cetacean, I first encountered the problem of focusing, which was very peculiar and unstable. Only one thing is constant, when focusing, the center point does not focus, it first noticed in the eyes during portraiture, the tip of the nose and hair are sharp, no eyes, naturally this happens on f1.8-f2.0. Lubrication is excluded. I tried other focus points, out of 11 everything is missed except the center. The top and bottom (which is very surprising), in live view everything is ok, unless of course the focus frame contains the necessary part of the subject and does not exceed it. I don’t know how on other CZKs, but on my focus frame in live view when zooming, unfortunately it also increases. Unfortunately I can’t attach the photo, because glass purchase came at a time of lack of a computer. I drew a scale on a piece of paper, placed it under a 45 меру camera, an open hole, ISO 100, enough light from the window, center. The spot smears, at least 5 mm undershot with a minimum focusing distance, only the center top and bottom are not smeared. I focused on the target only at the minimum distance, only with it I still somehow see what was happening, or my vision is not very good, MDF at 35 still doesn’t have such scaling, which gives 105 mm whale, which accuracy is easier to verify.

  • Victor

    Hello. Will the 5100-18 P lens work on the 55?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Will not work

  • Benjamin

    Good afternoon, Arkady!
    As you know, on the motherboard of the device there is a backup lithium battery type CR2025.
    It is used to save the date / time. Is it used to save settings? If not, why do they remain when they are discharged or removed from the battery of the EN-EL14? Battery.

    • anonym

      there is such a thing, the pzu is called. user settings can be easily stored in memory

    • Novel

      Not to save the date-time, but for the operation of the timer chip.

      • Benjamin

        Obviously, the compilers of the User Guide did not know this (see page 20).
        They believe that the battery is needed for the watch.

        • Michael

          This was written for the not very gifted. The above answer is correct, below is a philistine explanation for users.

    • Denis

      in general, the RAM is used in electronics, it is cleared when the power is turned off, obviously, part of the memory is powered by a battery, there are even specialized clock microcircuits with a small RAM, for example PCF8583, maybe something like that is in the camera
      there are also EEPROM microcircuits, they can withstand up to 1 million rewrite cycles, usually all settings are written there, they are also used in electronic control units for automobile engines. this is a relatively small memory
      the memory in which the programs are stored, FLASH memory, it is usually erased and written only page-by-page (not by bytes), has a smaller amount of rewriting, although it is still very large, of the order of 100 thousand

      • Michael

        EEPROM is ROM, something similar is being discussed. Since the camera settings take about 3-5 kB, the EEPROM should pull.

        • Denis

          obviously this is so, because sometimes they write that time gets lost, but they don’t write that settings get lost :)

  • Benjamin

    Arkady, the backup battery in this camera is a CR-2025 lithium battery, NOT rechargeable.
    However, the Camera User Guide says about it:
    “Battery for watch
    The camera clock is powered by a separate battery, which charges when
    when the main battery is installed in the camera, or if the camera
    works via an additional EP-5A power connector and an EH-5b AC adapter. Three days of charging is enough to keep the watch running for about a month. ”
    Please clarify.

    • BB

      Apparently, there is some small battery that is charging from the main one, because if you leave the camera without a battery for 5-7 days, the date and time settings get lost. The rest of the camera settings do not go astray.

  • Alina

    Good day! I have a D5100 and 2 lenses: Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX Nikkor and YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8. I use the first when you need to bring very close or a large view, and the second when you need a lighter image and bokeh effect. I’m shooting a report (usually a concert) on high iso in raw, in this regard, the whale loses much compared to the portrait, the AF speed of both is very lame. I want to grow further, but the budget does not allow me to go to the next level of cameras (although in FF's dreams). Does it make sense so far to buy some fast aperture lens with a variable focal length (up to 30 tr), still the lens solves more? Will it solve the problem of strong noise in dark photos? And which?

    • anonym

      Sigma 17-50 / 2.8 with stabilizer or, ideally, Nikon Nikkor 17-55 / 2.8G.
      Used first will cost about half the cost of the second. Nikkor 17-55 / 2.8G, if you are lucky, you will be able to buy in good condition for 30-35 thousand Russian rubles on Avito. Not ebay from Japanese sellers from $ 600-650 in good condition (definitely better than Avito).

    • B. R. P.

      The speed of af also depends on the camera, the module in your camera is quite simple. The problem of noise is again to the camera, or rather, to its matrix, and not to the lens.

  • Benjamin

    Arkady, at what voltage does the EN-EL14 battery turn off the camera power?

    • BB

      Why do you need to know this? This is not indicated anywhere (unless you look for it in the service manuals). lithium discharge curve differs markedly from battery to battery. If you measure voltage, then you need to measure 'under load', and this is not very easy.

      • Benjamin

        That is why I asked the question because “it is not indicated anywhere”. And asked about a specific battery EN-EL14.
        Secondly, if you measure the voltage (namely voltage) on the battery after the camera turns off automatically, is that not enough?
        Thirdly, I think that this “threshold voltage” is NOT a parameter of the battery, but of the camera.

        • BB

          Are you a little familiar with electronics?
          No, not enough.
          From practice: we take a good 18650 battery, connect a microcontroller that measures the battery voltage every 10 ms, load the battery with a stable current of 1 ampere (a small current for a normal battery). When the voltage reaches below the critical 3.0 volts, the MC disconnects the load. We check with a tester with a tester - 2.9 volts before shutdown, 3.1V immediately after shutdown. We wait a minute, we measure again - now the battery has 3.2 volts, after another five - 3.3. This self-healing charge is inherent in all chemicals. elements to varying degrees.
          Well, remember Ohm’s full law?
          I = E / (R + r). Due to the presence of internal resistance, the voltage at the battery terminals under load and without load will be different.
          Therefore, I ask again: why do you need this, what do you want to achieve, what and how do you want to measure and why?

          • Benjamin

            Then to know. Is there something shameful about this?
            I'm interested in the principle of automatically turning off the power of cameras, in particular, Nikon D5100. Is there any minimum battery voltage (in volts, percent), after which the power is turned off?
            In my question, I did not speak about measurements at all.
            There is nothing wrong with the fact that you do not have a specific answer to my specific question.

            • BB

              For some kind of minimum voltage.
              I think it goes something like this: Nikon orders 'banks' for batteries with certain characteristics (it is unlikely to develop itself). Company X develops or offers an existing product with specified parameters. After the manufacture of a large batch, X tests the batteries for real capacity and an averaged graph of the discharge curve is built (or a voltage-remainder_capacity correspondence table). Average, because even in the same batch, the capacity and characteristics will differ slightly. The Nikon company receives this graph / table, and imports it into the power controller (adjusted for the fact that there are two 'banks' in the battery). By measuring the battery voltage, the controller compares this voltage to the table, and 'finds out' how many percent of the capacity is left. If the voltage / capacity is below a certain threshold (most likely below 5-7% of the capacity), then the controller turns off the camera's power circuits.
              Also, the battery case has its own controller - it also 'monitors' the voltage: if it is below the critical voltage (this voltage is lower than that at which the camera turns off), then it cuts off the voltage at the battery terminals - in case, for example, if the camera 'stuck', or the battery is shorted with a paper clip. There is also a circuit for measuring the current consumption, it also turns off the battery when a certain threshold is exceeded - both to protect against discharge and against overheating (an exploding lithium battery is a very unpleasant thing).

              • Benjamin

                Thank you, everything is clear: there is some kind of threshold - the minimum value of the voltage or capacity of the battery (in volts, mAh, percent), after which the power is turned off. So I was interested in the value of this threshold (in volts, mAh, percent), which I asked about.
                Once I found out that the elements for the EN-EL14 battery, as well as for the batteries of other Nikon cameras, are manufactured by Panasonic - specifically the prismatic (as opposed to the cylindrical ones it produces) NCA543444 element with a nominal capacity of 1030mAh and a nominal voltage of 3,6V.

              • BB

                If I am not mistaken, for Panasonic batteries makes Sanyo.

              • Benjamin

                If interested, I can send the document to .pdf`e.

              • Benjamin

                Here is an example - battery EN-EL9a for Nikon D60:
                https://ibb.co/jzXjL8n

  • Michael

    Good afternoon, is it worth taking a used NIKON D5100 or D3100?

    • Valery A.

      Kind. Why not? The cameras, IMHO, are not morally obsolete. I had 3100, 5100 and now I have it, I think it is better and more comfortable first.

    • Vitaly N

      Instead of 3100, 3200 is better - the difference between them is huge.

      • anonym

        At 3200 pixels too ... you will need to look for sharp glass - expensive, troublesome. The file weight is larger.
        5100 or 3100 - definitely 5100. Well, you need to look at the price.

        • Vitaly N

          Tales about lenses. Fixes are quite allowed, whale zooms on covered ones too. The hand is firmer, yes, it will need to be trained. File sizes - maybe they scared someone 5 years ago, now the media are larger and cheaper. And the difference between 16MP 14-bit and 24MP 12-bit is probably not big. Although if you choose between 5100 and 3200, 5100 is better in terms of functionality and DD. I mean, you shouldn't take the 3100 if you have a choice.

          • Onotole

            There are no actual 14 bits in the D5100, the matrix no longer provides. I would say there is somewhere 12,5 bits in real life and there is no big gain from a 14-bit equal. On the other hand, 12 bits are enough in 99,95 cases.

          • anonym

            Yes, I have 18-105 for 5100, and it seems to be nothing ... but sharpness is only in the center; on the edge of the frame, children come out unpleasantly plump :)). Portraits still come out like that.
            By the way, from an external flash, the elaboration of details is much higher, the built-in gives soap.

            • Vitaly N

              A flash of sharpness does not add. Most likely with an external ISO and / or aperture less, that’s an improvement in quality.

              • anonym

                That is not, manually, the priority of the diaphragm. Maybe the angle of attack of the flash is greater or the light is better, after all, the SB-900.

              • Michael

                Well, in general, the appearance of sharpness of the flash even adds a lot, creating a hard light

              • Onotole

                No, everything is very simple - the shutter speed is too long. In the default auto settings for lenses with a stub, it can easily be 1/10 or something similar. The stabilizer protects against hand shake blur, but not against the movement of objects in the frame. The flash freezes the details. Further: the built-in flash, due to the fact that it is fixed and can only hit “on the forehead”, is only set for the fill light (shadow illumination), even if it is turned “plus” - the overall exposure is taken from constant ambient light in any case. Otherwise, when shooting with the flash on, let's say from one and a half meters with a distance of 3-4 meters to the background, the latter would always come out completely black (as was the case with soap dishes in the 90s). An external flash can be reflected from the walls, ceiling, diffuser and thus create your own lighting system independent of external circumstances (of course, this requires many times more power, which the built-in flash will not have). In this case, the light will be pulsed, and even with a shutter speed of at least a second, objects, even the fastest ones, will be properly frozen. Hence the sharpness.

  • Michael

    So what to take, d5100 d3200 or d3100?

  • Michael

    Or look for d5200?

    • Valery A.

      5100

    • Vitaly N

      I already wrote - cross 3100 off the list. If you want a camera for a long time, 5100 is better. From 3200 you can quickly grow, although it shoots perfectly. 5200 will certainly be better than 5100, but see for yourself. With an increase in appetite, you can then watch 7000, it will definitely be better :)

  • Michael

    Thank you, so I will look for d5100 or d3200 /

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