For the opportunity Nikon D5100 body camera review Many thanks to Sergey Svirida.
Nikon D5100 review
I want to write everything at once about the Nikon D5100 - it's just awesome multimedia harvester, which manages to squeeze just the prohibitive image quality. In this review, information is only about the camera itself Nikon D5100 body. Very often, the Nikon D5100 is sold along with universal lenses, and this set is called Kit. Usually in a set Nikon D5100 Kit such lenses as:
- Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX Nikkor
- Nikon 18-55mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor (or one of its 3 modifications)
- Nikon 18-200mm f / 3.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S DX VR Zoom-Nikkorcan be met very rarely
- Nikon 55-200mm f / 4-5.6 AF-S VR DX Zoom-Nikkoras optional included
- Nikon 55-300mm f / 4.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX Nikkor as optional in kit
The best option is an 18-200mm lens, it is enough for all occasions - from a wide angle for a landscape or a small apartment, to photographing birds and bunnies. If you still need to start somewhere, then the kit lens 18-55m is quite suitable, and do not believe that the kit lens is so terrible, just important how to take pictures, and not on what technique. For portrait shooting, I advise you to look towards the lens Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S Nikkor, and as a good sharp fast aperture fixed lens for every day can act Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G AF-S DX Nikkor.
View of the Nikon D5100 camera from different angles
Nikon D5100 - This is an amateur SLR camera from Nikon, a highly updated version of the Nikon D5000. The camera can shoot Full HD video and take pictures at a speed 4 frames per second.
Sample photo on Nikon D5100
Important points:
Matrix Nikon D5100 matrix based Nikon D7000. The matrix Nikon D7000 can give out a picture high dynamic range, excellent color reproduction and low noise at high ISO. The Nikon D5100 does the same. When I took the first test shots on Nikon D5100 and ISO 6400, I was just amazed at the image quality. The result was really very juicy and lively picture, and this is at 16,2 megapixels, because in this review there are many night photos as examples. ISO camera can be set from value 100 to 25,600, values ISO 12.800. и ISO 25.600. are denoted as Hi1 и Hi2, I do not recommend shooting at such high ISO.
Nikon D5100 installed CMOS 16.2-megapixel sensor. Yes, the Nikon D5100 has as much as 16,2MP, which is the same as that of Nikon D7000 and full frame Nikon D4. More megapixels can only be found in the very expensive Nikon D3x, Nikon D800,D800E, D3200, D600, D5200 (at the time of writing). The number of megapixels is not a serious indicator of the quality of a photograph, but still, the more the better. If you are chasing megapixels, I advise you to pay attention to my note Battle of Megapixels. I shoot 6.2 megapixel without any problems Nikon D40I advise you to go to the review page Nikon D40 and make sure that even at 6.2MP you can get an excellent image result.
Nikon D5100 uses a sensor manufactured by Sony, the same sensor is found in cameras:
- Nikon D7000
- Pentax K-30
- Pentax K-5
- Pentax K-01
- Sony a580
- Sony A55
- Sony NEX-5N
Photo on Nikon D5100 - saturated colors of the camera
Actually, the matrix is the heart of the camera, and the better it is, the better your photographs will be. Nikon D5100 has the same matrix size as the more advanced ones Nikon D7000, D90, D300s. The Nikon D5100 APS-C sensor available, which means that the matrix is 2.25 times smaller in area than the matrix of full-frame SLR cameras, such as Nikon D700 or D3s. This entails an effect. crop factor. When using lenses from full-frame cameras, the viewing angle will be narrower than on film or in a full frame. More details in the article Crop Factor.
Sample photo on Nikon D5100
Other important points that really affect the operation and functionality of the camera
- Large rotary display. The display has 921.000 points. Nikon D5100 uses the same number of pixels as the camera D3, D3s, D3x, D700, D300, D300s, D90, D7000, D3200 и Nikon D5200
- Very fast EXPEED-2 processor, with which the camera shows excellent speed.
- Nikon D5100 uses 11 focus pointsfor which the focus module is responsible Nikon Multi-CAM 1000. The same module is on such cameras as Nikon D90, D3100, D3000, D80, D200 and D5000. Focusing is accurate. Focusing speed is highly dependent on the lens and shooting conditions.
- Measurement exposure implemented using a 420-pixel sensor, the same as that of Nikon D80, D90, D60, D40x, D50, D5000 and D3100. The camera measures the exposure perfectly, the only one, because Active is on D-lighting the camera sometimes exposes the frame.
- The shooting speed is 4 frames per second. This is just a little less than 4.5 fps for a more advanced Nikon D90. 4 fps is enough for any type of shooting. Even a full-frame professional Nikon D800 can shoot a maximum of 4k \ s. Personally, I always have enough even 2.5 frames per second on my old woman Nikon D40. A high rate of fire is needed only for certain situations. A high rate of fire requires a large frame buffer and a fast memory card. For example, when I reviewed the Nikon D5100, the camera used a slow 8GB SD flash drive. Since I was shooting in RAW for review, the camera was very slow after 2 seconds of shooting in fast mode. Due to the fact that RAW files from the camera weigh about 15mb, I had to wait a very long time until the files were written to the memory card. Indeed, the whole charm of fast continuous shooting at 4 fps can be estimated by shooting only in JPEG.
- Frame buffer when shooting in RAW format is 11 frames. This is as much as that of Nikon D90 when shooting in RAW. How much the camera will slow down during serial shooting will greatly depend on the buffer capacity. In an earlier model Nikon D3100, frame buffer is 13 pieces in RAW.
- Attention: Nikon D5100 Nikon's first amateur camera to use RAW with 14 bit color depth. This is very good news for fans of processing RAW photos. Unfortunately, like all Nikon amateur cameras, the D5100 does not have a choice of RAW compression levels or a choice of color depth.
Example photo on the Nikon D5100. Snowy glass.
- Full HD movie shooting 1980 * 1080, with maximum quality you can shoot videos up to 20 minutes long. Believe me, 20 minutes is enough for the video. You can choose different shooting modes in different quality. Another important detail to shoot video on the desired aperture, you first need to install it, and therefore already enable Live View and start recording. When Live View is on, aperture change is not available.
- Convenient menu and overall camera ergonomics. At first, it might seem that controlling the camera with one hand is difficult, but then you can quickly get used to the control.
Example photo on Nikon D5100 at high ISO
- A bunch of useful additions - automatic correction of distortion, aberration, Active D-lighting, Breckening, Live View, Timelapse, etc. Important! Automatic correction of distortion and chromatic aberration is removed only when shooting in JPEG.
- The camera has one great feature - HDR. HDR takes two frames with different exposures and saves them in one file. Very comfortable and interesting. The HDR function is not available when shooting in RAW. The HDR function is conveniently programmed with the FN button.
Example photo on Nikon D5100 at very high ISO
- A little about the shortcomings - this is an amateur camera, because in the camera no many features from more advanced or professional cameras. Personally very important to me fast flash sync, flash command modeFine tune focus manual exposure metering and availability focus motor - Nikon D5100 doesn't have them. Highly I consider “picture braking” a strong drawback when sighting through Live View and approaching the image area 1 to 1 (or similar) - the picture slows down quite a lot. There is no such effect on Nikon D90. Such an approximation helps to very accurately sharpen the desired focus point.
All sample photos on the Nikon D5100 from this review were shot in RAW -> JPEG, without processing, only resized to 720 * 477 pixels with imprinted EXIF in order to be able to judge the shooting parameters. Please note that at high ISO photos are more or less acceptable.
Example photo on the Nikon D5100. Loss of juiciness of the color gamut when raising ISO
Recommendations
In order to speed up focusing, use the optical viewfinder. When focusing in Live View, the focusing accuracy will be very high, but the speed will be very slow, since the camera and the lens will need to measure contrast at different focusing distances and only then put the lens in the desired position. When focusing through the optical viewfinder (through the eye), the camera is much quicker to cope with focusing. It is for this reason that older cameras such as Nikon D300, D300s, D700 etc., there are two Live View shooting modes. These are tripod mode and hand mode. In hand-held mode and Live View on, when you press the shutter button halfway, Live View turns off and autofocusing occurs through the phase sensors, after a successful focus is achieved, Live View turns on again.
Photo at Nikon D5100 at low ISO in low light
If desperately needed maximum frame buffer, then you need to turn off all functions that reduce the number of photos in the buffer. I think you will be surprised when in paragraph 5 it is written about 11 frames in the buffer, but in reality there will be less of them. The number of frames that the buffer can fit is shown in the lower right corner of the viewfinder when you press the shutter button halfway. Usually, with noise reduction turned on for high ISOs and slow shutter speeds, as well as when active D-lighting the number of frames in the buffer drops sharply. Therefore, by disabling these functions you can get the claimed 11 frames. Well, if you do not need RAW, then in high-quality JPEG with advanced settings enabled 16 frames - and this is for 4 seconds of continuous shooting. It is unlikely that someone takes a burst of longer than 4-5 seconds.
Photo on Nikon D5100
When you place the camera in a case (in a photo bag), turn the display with the dark side out, and the LCD monitor in the middle so that the monitor does not scratch during transportation. If shooting in JPEG, I recommend turning on noise reduction at high ISOs and slow shutter speeds. For a saturated picture you can use Active D-lighting in HIGH mode. You can also configure the FN programmable button, which is located next to the flash up button. I usually program the FN button for the ISO control function.
Sample photos on Nikon D5100 using a lens Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S Nikkor. Photos without processing.
Don't know what to choose?
Usually, a person who wants to buy a camera of this level stops at 2-3 Nikon models. it Nikon D3100, Nikon D5000, Nikon D5100, D5200. I recommend taking a simpler model Nikon D3100, which can do the same thing as the D5100, but its price is much less. D5100 is more suitable for those who like to shoot in poor lighting conditions at high ISO. Saturation and image quality on the D5100 and D3100 very similar to low and medium ISO. Of course newer Nikon D5200 in many ways beats the Nikon D5100.
| D5000 | D5100 | D5200 | |
| Exit time | June 2009 | April 2011 | November 2012 |
| RAW color depth | 12 bit | 14 bit | 14 bit |
| Number of megapixels | 12,20 | 16,08 | 24,00 |
| Burst Speed | 4 fps | 4 fps | 5 fps |
| Minimum ISO | 200,00 | 100,00 | 100,00 |
| Minimum Extensive ISO | 100 (Lo1) | - | - |
| Maximum ISO | 3200,00 | 6400,00 | 6400,00 |
| Maximum Extended ISO | 6400 (Hi1) | 25600 (Hi2) | 25600 (Hi2) |
| Video length max. qualities | 5 minutes | 20 minutes | 20 minutes |
| Video | 1280 x 720 24fps | 1920x1080 30fps | 1920 x 1080 60i |
| Sound | mono | mono | stereo |
| Display | 2.7 inches, 230.000 points | 3 inches, 921.000 points | 3 inches, 921.000 points |
| Focus module | Multi-cam 1000 | Multi-cam 1000 | Multi-CAM 4800DX |
| Number of Focus Points | 11,00 | 11,00 | 39,00 |
| Measurement exposure | 420-pixel RGB sensor | 420-pixel RGB sensor | 2016-pixel RGB sensor |
| Memory cards | SD,SDHC | SD, SDHC, SDXC | SD, SDHC, SDXC (UHS-I) |
| Weight without battery, g | 550,00 | 510,00 | 505,00 |
| HDR | no | Yes | Yes |
I do not recommend buying an older Nikon D5000, it does not have autofocus when shooting video, and it is quite difficult for an ordinary user to focus on sharpness manually.
By the way here a list of all CZKs from Nikonmaybe he will help in choosing.
Photo on Nikon D5100
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions
Nikon D5100 gives a very good picture one click on the shutter button. Camera for photo lovers who just need a good result in a photo without unnecessary troubles. Full HD and a swivel display makes the camera even more attractive. Given that the camera has a matrix of very high quality Nikon D7000then Nikon D5100 can be used by advanced amateurs as well.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Thank you for your help, I did not expect that there would be so many options for solving the problem, so I will sculpt a plan and work out point-by-point. Really stomped on the spot and produced a marriage, thoughtlessly. I’ll leave the adjustment in a sweat, firstly it’s brutal too much, and secondly there’s nowhere to carry it simply, in my city there are no such services. I won’t clog the reports with the reports, but if I find the formula for the philosopher’s stone, I will definitely unsubscribe.
On the left is 100% crop, on the right is the entire frame.
Thanks for spending time on the computer (wgrniti) so others don't have to.
See my post from 09.03.2015/19/00 at XNUMX:XNUMX. Back-front correction can be done programmatically at home.
Below I enclose a target for AF adjustment (it is printed on a printer, placed vertically at an angle of 45 degrees to the main optical axis of the lens)
Only it is better to take a target with a 'chessboard' (instead of a cross).
Here are some experiments with the target.
Photographed without much preparation from hand.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3vca2LL5ytgUnNmYXVSTjVLckE/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3vca2LL5ytgUVBlR2ZDWm9pNkU/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3vca2LL5ytgRTJBN3NRZU5sWk0/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3vca2LL5ytgSXQxV2dBa1ZmTjA/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3vca2LL5ytgVDJiNnY5SXlfQnM/view?usp=sharing
What can I say, razor sharpness is not observed. Perhaps the result will be better if you take pictures with a tripod, with the right light, with a mathematically precisely located target. But for now, at this time, the subject of my labors is the search for a clear enemy. Say marriage in technology. I have not yet found it explicitly. I am not an expert in photo-making, so I resort to the help of specialist readers of the local photo blog (sorry for importunity).
What else have I done:
1. I unscrewed the lens and examined its back side, the lenses are clean.
2. I read the instructions on focusing again, this time thoughtfully. Found that the camera has the right to miss the auto focus in the following cases:
- there is not enough or no contrast between the object and the background;
- the focus point contains areas with a sharp contrast in brightness;
- objects that are at different distances from the camera fall into the focusing point (an animal in a zoo through a lattice);
- the correct geometric structure prevails in the outlines of the shooting object (blinds, for example);
- objects in the background are larger than the subject;
- the subject consists of many small details.
After reading, he especially tomated over the reasons for a possible nefocus, it became sad. It turns out that with any suspicion of the above signs, switch to manual focus adjustment, so as not to ruin the session?
3. I took pictures with the stabilizer (VR) turned on and off, I did not notice much difference;
4. Photographed with manual focus. The result is pleasing. The photo is clearer, one might say super (in terms of sharpness), I liked the process. But ... the applicability in my photography is low. I have a reportage style of photography, mainly family, children, there is no time to tune in.
That's all for now, I continue to experiment.
I also read in one of the articles that photographic equipment manufacturers deliberately blur photos to make the result more attractive. Allegedly oversharp degrades the image (jpeg), and if anyone needs too sharp photos, this can be achieved in the editor. I am inclined to agree with this hypothesis, especially regarding portraits.
Also, allegedly in the camera settings there is an option “sharpness” and it can be adjusted manually. I did not find it in D5100, it was very interesting to check out the effect.
Shooting mode menu - piccha control mode - neutral (or any other) - sharpening.
Surprise. I did not expect to look there. Thanks!
Diving into the camera manual again, I discovered that in the D5100, in addition to the preset Picture Controls (standard, neutral ...), you can create several custom modes with your own settings, and save them under their own names. The arsenal of adjustments is impressive: sharpness, contrast, brightness, saturation, hue ... You can create custom settings in an external program, on a computer, save them on a memory card and load into the camera. In general, a whole laboratory for creativity)
and a surprise for me!
Hello Arkady. The d5100 camera, tell me how to set the shutter speed to 30s, I looked in the manual and found nothing. The experience of ownership is 4 days. Thank you.
I put it in M (or S) mode, turn the wheel, and 30 ″ and bulb next.
Thanks understood!
Good day ... Please tell me how to get pictures from the internal memory of the camera. There are several frames that the device has placed on the internal memory ... They are not on the flash drive. And in general it is possible ??? If so, where did he keep them?
Thank you.
it's impossible
The d5100 has no internal memory. If the pictures were taken without a memory card, it will not be possible to restore them. They were in the buffer. After shutdown, the frame buffer is reset (like a computer's RAM).
look at the file names that the camera shows. maybe there is not JPEG, but RAW, for example, which your computer may not understand
Hello everyone! I want to share my joy and experience. A week ago I bought 5100 for inexpensive and risked updating with a patched file with a nikonhacker, now I have a video from 7000 (Iso adjustment and shutter), RAV without compression now weighs 32-33mb instead of 16-17mb and forbade masking hot pixels (for some reason I thought that it’s necessary, if there is such an option, or correct me), for some reason I removed the restriction on recording video by length, now it writes for 50 minutes. Next, I want to upload and try presets of skinton or bb for the video.
Off masking hot pixels is useful for those who like to shoot the night sky through a telescope with a tracking system for a chosen star (otherwise the noise will perceive the star as a hot pixel). The patch for adjusting ISO during video recording does not work for me. And with a limited shooting time, the vileo is neat. Its developers introduced for a reason. During long-term video recording, the matrix may overheat and irreversible thermal degradation of pixels may occur. In our D5100, although it’s not an old CCD matrix, which cannot write video at all due to the inertia of reading, it’s still not worth wasting the matrix for safety.
How's the BB preset?
Nikon 5100 + Tamron 18-200mm F / 3.5-6.3 Di II VC (Model B018) Nikon F do you think will make friends and what to expect from such an alliance? or better than native.
Yes, they will be friends, (walking everywhere holding hands), and their union will be fruitful, but only if their owner makes friends with the theory and practice of photography and makes an alliance with Photoshop. :))
And give birth to masterpieces
Better still, because there is doubt that the camera will work correctly metering and autofocus on the long end due to low aperture (6,3, and according to the official specification for this camera requires 5,6 or lighter). Arkady had an article on this site devoted to this problem.
A macro will be less or less. I mean, does it make sense to take 200, or can I limit myself to 105 or 140.
For macro, you need a “macro” lens, otherwise it will not be a macro, but just a close-up.
Thanks for the answer! Nevertheless, in some lenses, similar in characteristics, I met the macro clause. or I didn’t catch something
You see, some kind of macro (when you see an object under a magnifying glass) starts with a coefficient. magnifications from 1: 1 (better than 2: 1), while an object of, say, 25 mm in size is displayed on the crop matrix, i.e. on its entire length, and on the screen you will see this object in full screen. The lens you specified has a coefficient. increase not more than 1: 3, i.e. the same object will occupy only a third of the screen.
Thank you, I realized what you need to read about macro, to study this question in more detail)))
Then get a notebook for your notes - shifters, macro rings, fur, stack, a lot of material. Good luck.
P.S. The photo is not mine, from the life magazine vmenshov.
If the lens is not a macro lens (a real macro lens), then the inscription Macro, this is from the word “marketing”, has nothing to do with macro photography. In general, the 5100 is certainly a great camera, but for macro, something like the 7100 is preferable. Although, of course, if macro is not the main genre, then what kind of camera does not matter.
I just decide whether I need this focus on 200 or still not. Well, I'll take a picture of a bird or a squirrel, and since it is "dark", then I will have to rush with the outer puff, but this is unlikely, although if during the day it may not ..
Don’t flatter yourself, you don’t take pictures of 200mm birds, unless you are very close to sneak up or go to the zoo. Birds should be starting from 300mm, and if it is very beautiful, it is better from 400mm to 800.
The word macro can often mean just a minimum focus distance.
in-in, it probably is. because all of these “macro” have a shorter focusing distance of 35-39mm. Otherwise, everything is the same. But of course, this does not affect the macro.
Hello, I have a Helios 81N MC lens and I want to buy a Nikon D5100 camera for it, but I have a question: are they compatible? or need some kind of adapter? And will all functions work?
All Radozhiva for you, read. Compatible, but with details on the pages of this blog.
there will be no metering
Thank you!
Hello! I choose my first DSLR in order to start earning professionally. Will there be such an opportunity with the Nikon D5100? or is it suitable only for amateur photography and for training beginners (such as I. Thanks in advance! =))
for the purpose of further growth, take the camera a level higher, for example, Nikon d7000 or Kenon 60d.
Has anyone seen episodic matrix highlights from green viewfinder indicators? Always in the same place on the frame. Appear when shooting with the built-in flash.
Arkady needs your advice! I want to shoot weddings at 5100, I’m looking at the 17-55 lens but expensive infection) and I want to take 50 1.4 + is this enough? And can you replace 17-55 with something worthy but not that expensive? Thank you in advance for your response)
For a wedding you need a station wagon, sigma 17-50 will do.
Arkady needs your advice! I want to shoot weddings at 5100, I’m looking at the 17-55 lens but expensive infection) and I want to take 50 1.4 + is this enough? And can you replace 17-55 with something worthy but not that expensive? Thank you in advance for your response)
Or instead of 50 take 85?
Well, if you take two fixes, it is better 24 or 28 or 35 mm + 85 mm to cover a larger range of focal lengths. There will be a staff member and portrait. A fifty dollars in this case, like a cow saddle.
Thank you!
Good afternoon, I am the owner of the d5100, I want to work for a little money with a professional camera, look towards the d300, is it worth it to take and how will the picture quality be? ＝) thanks for the answer
It’s not worth it, it’s better to buy optics.
Significantly lose by ISO, DD, resolution. In return, you will get excellent autofocus and a dust and water tight housing with a reinforced concrete structure and the corresponding weight and size. It will also be possible to fully work with screwdriver lenses, high-speed synchronization with external flashes, etc. But the D300 has one point: since the equipment is from the professional segment, in the secondary market you can run into orderly ushatannye specimens. And the price tag is often sky-high. For little money you can see the D90, which also has a matrix, but simpler functionality, the D80 with an SSD matrix for a nice color without dancing with a tambourine.
I would be in your place in the first place to determine what specifically does not suit the D5100, because a very good device. Maybe the problem is not in the technical part?
The device is generally not bad, but I didn’t like it. I'm not talking about all those stupid new-fangled little things that Arkady constantly focuses on, but about the result, about the photos.
I do not like. But this is not only for 5100 (cat. I tested) but also my D7000 - a chamber jpeg is some kind of artificial acid plastic. Saves (and even then not always) filming in RAV. It's all about the stupid CMOS matrix, which produces such a result.
Therefore, basically, where I do not need a lot of puxels, I use Nikon D70, with an excellent CCD matrix - there is a color, there is a picture.
Of course, 95% of users who press the buttons do not notice this, I’m just a photo designer and I notice such nuances sharply.
If you are shooting just for yourself or for friends, for vkantaktika - don't worry, this is a great camera. True, Arkady hints that 16 megapixels may not be enough, so buy the D5200 with 24 pixels right away - how cool it will be to pante before the rogue owners of the D5100 with their horrible 16 megapixels.
Each camera has its own niche. The Finepix S5Pro is obviously suitable for your needs. For frequent evening shooting and in low light conditions at high ISO - D5100 is enough for me. I shoot in RAW, I don't use a camera camera.
gotsspody!
disiner!
which cannot draw the Old from the Rav d7000 ... dust and ashes.
ssd matrix will not save you.
The D5100 / D7000 has a good sensor, but the camera requires adjustment / color correction and correct WB exposure for the scenes to get acceptable color in on-camera JPEG. And if you shoot in auto mode with the built-in flash, then the result will be appropriate.
A camera is like a musical instrument: you need to learn how to play it in order to get music.
discovered Capture NX-2, realized that all the complaints about the D5100 colors are "merit" of Lightroom
I still bought a Nikon D40 for fun. until I noticed a special difference, I will use both
in Lightroom, process photos from Nikon, it is better with an adob standard camera profile, the rest of the profiles really add yellowness and greenery. Moreover, I made profiles using a colorchecker - one hell is worse than the adob standard. But even in the adob standard, Lightroom distorts the color (I think that the version of the 2012 process in which I work also plays a role here). It is interesting that E. Kartashov, when working with pictures from Sony, also draws attention to the color distortions by Lightrum in all profiles, except for the adob standard, moreover, yellowness and greenness are also added to the photo. In Capture NX-2, the color is definitely better, but the speed of Nikon's software is kapets.
thanks, Yuri! very interesting information. I noticed that Capture NX-2 is slow, I thought my computer was weak. but at the same time I will not say that it directly "slows down"
It slows down when there are many files in the working directory: (At the same time, I have a core i-7, 16Gb RAM, ssd hard drive.
Prompt perhaps
Please tell me about choosing a zoom lens for this camera (budget). I am an amateur, I have NikonD5100 + Nikon50f1.8. I shoot my family, children, kindergarten matinees with poor lighting, my fifty-kopeck piece is not always convenient. I choose between the whale 18-105, where the small aperture is confusing and something from the tamron 17-50 F2.8. where the aperture attracts and according to reviews, sharpness is not very pleasant. Perhaps you can advise something else ...?
Sigma 17-50 F2.8 and choose to get into focus on your camera
but a large aperture is a small DOF - one child will be in focus and all the others will not. You will cover the diaphragm anyway
in order to get good photos, you need a flash, only as far as it is applicable at the Sadikovsky matinee, I don’t know
Thanks. then at 2,8 I will also have a small DOF? It turns out for matinees better kit 55-105 + flash?
The depth of field depends only on the focal length and aperture. look, what photos did you take with 50mm, which one set the aperture? 50mm zoom will have the same (2.8mm)
in general, personally, I would choose Sigma 17-50 F / 2.8 and be sure to flash
and in case you need to shoot children on stage, another Nikon 55-200VR
wait for more tips from experts, I'm an amateur
Thank you
Tamron’s sharpness should not confuse you, it’s a good lens
Thank you
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I bought Nikon D5100 half a year ago. After a while, I noticed that if you sight through the viewfinder, the camera overwhelms the horizon by a couple of degrees. Checked with a level and a tripod. In the live view mode - everything is in order, probably something with the viewfinder. Tell me, what could be the problem and how to fix it? (please do not write nonsense about “crooked hands”).
In the mirror, in the pentazerkal. nothing else reflects there
Tell me what to buy Canon 600D or Nikon 5100?
What will fall into your hand, then take it. Cameras of the same class. Each has small pros and cons over a competitor. For example, Canon has better portraits, Nikon has landscapes, Canon has better videos, Nikon has cleaner high ISOs, etc. In general, everything is comparable and the only question is "religion")
Dependent between the D3100 and D5100, both used, in the same price range, but the first runs up to 10 thousand, the second 45 + thousand, it confuses.
Save the newcomer from the fate of Buridanov’s donkey, help decide, please)
I would take 5100. Matrix! Newer, better, iso is better. 3100 - well, as I did not puff in JPEG, I do not like colors, some kind of yellow-brown. With an equal price of figs with him - with mileage, the picture is better for 5100 (in my eyes). And if we talk about RAW, then 5100 is 14 bits.
Good afternoon, experts and users!)
Have a photo (!) D700 camera. Also Nikkor 24-70 2.8g nano and 85 1.4d for a screwdriver.
Duuumay to buy some simple corpus carcass for video with top glass. Well, and how to backup, just play around.
At 85, autofocus will not work with cheap carcasses - that's okay.
Important in FullHD video, autofocus and a stereo microphone jack would not be bad ..
..
So who to take? 3100 or 5100?
I would not like to take the "more advanced" 7000 or 7100, as it is not required.
The camera needs 90% for the vidos and 10% to play around like that .. what do you recommend?
Thanks in advance!
I had 3100, now 5100, I think the second is better in everything - a matrix (less noise), a rotary screen, more functions (like HDR) and settings. The video, however, filmed a little, in my opinion the same.
Forgot to write: family videos: at home and outdoors
5100 videos on a modern smartphone
CMOS is evil, even films are shot on Canon, so there when you move the camera it turns jelly
you come to the cinema for quality, but in fact some kind of home video.
in the movie “Downplay” the focusing is generally slow, and they probably filmed from the first take
Nikon d5100 bought a Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S Nikkor lens on a photo camera. SAY IT IS CLOSING?
And you yourself cannot decide, already having it? In my opinion, it does not zoom in and out, the main thing is that it does not stretch or compress the perspective (that is, it does not change the distance between objects in depth), for which it is called normal.
This is a fixed focal length lens (fixed). He does not zoom in (does not zoom). If you need to get closer, buy a zoom. In the future, it is better to try in the store before buying or read articles.
Is it really a fix or zoom? So, a 300mm fix probably brings it closer, and a 10-24 zoom removes the shot objects.
And on the crop, it seems like it even brings it closer because the EGF will be equal to 75mm. No, it does not zoom in and out; this is a fixed lens. Try to enjoy its aperture and get bokeh. Lenses of this class are primarily used to blur the background. And to zoom in and out, buy some sort: 18-55, 18-105, 18-135, depending on your wishes and financial capabilities. A fifty dollars will not be lost. And most importantly, Radozhiva’s articles to help you
Well, attach an 18-55 cetacean and look into the 18 mm and 50 mm viewfinder. And conclude.
Tell me - why do you need the lever indicated by the arrow. In the instructions, it is not described in any way.
Everything is described here. https://radojuva.com/2012/06/nikon-ai-s-old-lens-about/
Thanks, I figured it out - everything is clear.
Hello. Nikon D5100 and Yongnuo YN-565EX flash are available. There is a great desire to try the Nikon CLS system in practice. Yongnuo 565 supports CLS slave mode. But my camera's built-in flash cannot work in Master mode. Q: If I buy another “non-native” flash like “Shanny SN910 + Speedlite Master Flash i-TTL” that can act as Master, will Nikon CLS work with my D5100 and Yongnuo 565 in slave mode?
With a "native" flash on the shoe, the scheme is working. But why exactly Flash as Commander? If flash as such is not needed, then look at TTL triggers, the same yongnuo, for example