For the opportunity Nikon D5100 body camera review Many thanks to Sergey Svirida.
Nikon D5100 review
I want to write everything at once about the Nikon D5100 - it's just awesome multimedia harvester, which manages to squeeze just the prohibitive image quality. In this review, information is only about the camera itself Nikon D5100 body. Very often, the Nikon D5100 is sold along with universal lenses, and this set is called Kit. Usually in a set Nikon D5100 Kit such lenses as:
- Nikon 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX Nikkor
- Nikon 18-55mm f / 3.5-5.6G ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor (or one of its 3 modifications)
- Nikon 18-200mm f / 3.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S DX VR Zoom-Nikkorcan be met very rarely
- Nikon 55-200mm f / 4-5.6 AF-S VR DX Zoom-Nikkoras optional included
- Nikon 55-300mm f / 4.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX Nikkor as optional in kit
The best option is an 18-200mm lens, it is enough for all occasions - from a wide angle for a landscape or a small apartment, to photographing birds and bunnies. If you still need to start somewhere, then the kit lens 18-55m is quite suitable, and do not believe that the kit lens is so terrible, just important how to take pictures, and not on what technique. For portrait shooting, I advise you to look towards the lens Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S Nikkor, and as a good sharp fast aperture fixed lens for every day can act Nikon 35mm f / 1.8G AF-S DX Nikkor.
View of the Nikon D5100 camera from different angles
Nikon D5100 - This is an amateur SLR camera from Nikon, a highly updated version of the Nikon D5000. The camera can shoot Full HD video and take pictures at a speed 4 frames per second.
Sample photo on Nikon D5100
Important points:
Matrix Nikon D5100 matrix based Nikon D7000. The matrix Nikon D7000 can give out a picture high dynamic range, excellent color reproduction and low noise at high ISO. The Nikon D5100 does the same. When I took the first test shots on Nikon D5100 and ISO 6400, I was just amazed at the image quality. The result was really very juicy and lively picture, and this is at 16,2 megapixels, because in this review there are many night photos as examples. ISO camera can be set from value 100 to 25,600, values ISO 12.800. и ISO 25.600. are denoted as Hi1 и Hi2, I do not recommend shooting at such high ISO.
Nikon D5100 installed CMOS 16.2-megapixel sensor. Yes, the Nikon D5100 has as much as 16,2MP, which is the same as that of Nikon D7000 and full frame Nikon D4. More megapixels can only be found in the very expensive Nikon D3x, Nikon D800,D800E, D3200, D600, D5200 (at the time of writing). The number of megapixels is not a serious indicator of the quality of a photograph, but still, the more the better. If you are chasing megapixels, I advise you to pay attention to my note Battle of Megapixels. I shoot 6.2 megapixel without any problems Nikon D40I advise you to go to the review page Nikon D40 and make sure that even at 6.2MP you can get an excellent image result.
Nikon D5100 uses a sensor manufactured by Sony, the same sensor is found in cameras:
- Nikon D7000
- Pentax K-30
- Pentax K-5
- Pentax K-01
- Sony a580
- Sony A55
- Sony NEX-5N
Photo on Nikon D5100 - saturated colors of the camera
Actually, the matrix is the heart of the camera, and the better it is, the better your photographs will be. Nikon D5100 has the same matrix size as the more advanced ones Nikon D7000, D90, D300s. The Nikon D5100 APS-C sensor available, which means that the matrix is 2.25 times smaller in area than the matrix of full-frame SLR cameras, such as Nikon D700 or D3s. This entails an effect. crop factor. When using lenses from full-frame cameras, the viewing angle will be narrower than on film or in a full frame. More details in the article Crop Factor.
Sample photo on Nikon D5100
Other important points that really affect the operation and functionality of the camera
- Large rotary display. The display has 921.000 points. Nikon D5100 uses the same number of pixels as the camera D3, D3s, D3x, D700, D300, D300s, D90, D7000, D3200 и Nikon D5200
- Very fast EXPEED-2 processor, with which the camera shows excellent speed.
- Nikon D5100 uses 11 focus pointsfor which the focus module is responsible Nikon Multi-CAM 1000. The same module is on such cameras as Nikon D90, D3100, D3000, D80, D200 and D5000. Focusing is accurate. Focusing speed is highly dependent on the lens and shooting conditions.
- Measurement exposure implemented using a 420-pixel sensor, the same as that of Nikon D80, D90, D60, D40x, D50, D5000 and D3100. The camera measures the exposure perfectly, the only one, because Active is on D-lighting the camera sometimes exposes the frame.
- The shooting speed is 4 frames per second. This is just a little less than 4.5 fps for a more advanced Nikon D90. 4 fps is enough for any type of shooting. Even a full-frame professional Nikon D800 can shoot a maximum of 4k \ s. Personally, I always have enough even 2.5 frames per second on my old woman Nikon D40. A high rate of fire is needed only for certain situations. A high rate of fire requires a large frame buffer and a fast memory card. For example, when I reviewed the Nikon D5100, the camera used a slow 8GB SD flash drive. Since I was shooting in RAW for review, the camera was very slow after 2 seconds of shooting in fast mode. Due to the fact that RAW files from the camera weigh about 15mb, I had to wait a very long time until the files were written to the memory card. Indeed, the whole charm of fast continuous shooting at 4 fps can be estimated by shooting only in JPEG.
- Frame buffer when shooting in RAW format is 11 frames. This is as much as that of Nikon D90 when shooting in RAW. How much the camera will slow down during serial shooting will greatly depend on the buffer capacity. In an earlier model Nikon D3100, frame buffer is 13 pieces in RAW.
- Attention: Nikon D5100 Nikon's first amateur camera to use RAW with 14 bit color depth. This is very good news for fans of processing RAW photos. Unfortunately, like all Nikon amateur cameras, the D5100 does not have a choice of RAW compression levels or a choice of color depth.
Example photo on the Nikon D5100. Snowy glass.
- Full HD movie shooting 1980 * 1080, with maximum quality you can shoot videos up to 20 minutes long. Believe me, 20 minutes is enough for the video. You can choose different shooting modes in different quality. Another important detail to shoot video on the desired aperture, you first need to install it, and therefore already enable Live View and start recording. When Live View is on, aperture change is not available.
- Convenient menu and overall camera ergonomics. At first, it might seem that controlling the camera with one hand is difficult, but then you can quickly get used to the control.
Example photo on Nikon D5100 at high ISO
- A bunch of useful additions - automatic correction of distortion, aberration, Active D-lighting, Breckening, Live View, Timelapse, etc. Important! Automatic correction of distortion and chromatic aberration is removed only when shooting in JPEG.
- The camera has one great feature - HDR. HDR takes two frames with different exposures and saves them in one file. Very comfortable and interesting. The HDR function is not available when shooting in RAW. The HDR function is conveniently programmed with the FN button.
Example photo on Nikon D5100 at very high ISO
- A little about the shortcomings - this is an amateur camera, because in the camera no many features from more advanced or professional cameras. Personally very important to me fast flash sync, flash command modeFine tune focus manual exposure metering and availability focus motor - Nikon D5100 doesn't have them. Highly I consider “picture braking” a strong drawback when sighting through Live View and approaching the image area 1 to 1 (or similar) - the picture slows down quite a lot. There is no such effect on Nikon D90. Such an approximation helps to very accurately sharpen the desired focus point.
All sample photos on the Nikon D5100 from this review were shot in RAW -> JPEG, without processing, only resized to 720 * 477 pixels with imprinted EXIF in order to be able to judge the shooting parameters. Please note that at high ISO photos are more or less acceptable.
Example photo on the Nikon D5100. Loss of juiciness of the color gamut when raising ISO
Recommendations
In order to speed up focusing, use the optical viewfinder. When focusing in Live View, the focusing accuracy will be very high, but the speed will be very slow, since the camera and the lens will need to measure contrast at different focusing distances and only then put the lens in the desired position. When focusing through the optical viewfinder (through the eye), the camera is much quicker to cope with focusing. It is for this reason that older cameras such as Nikon D300, D300s, D700 etc., there are two Live View shooting modes. These are tripod mode and hand mode. In hand-held mode and Live View on, when you press the shutter button halfway, Live View turns off and autofocusing occurs through the phase sensors, after a successful focus is achieved, Live View turns on again.
Photo at Nikon D5100 at low ISO in low light
If desperately needed maximum frame buffer, then you need to turn off all functions that reduce the number of photos in the buffer. I think you will be surprised when in paragraph 5 it is written about 11 frames in the buffer, but in reality there will be less of them. The number of frames that the buffer can fit is shown in the lower right corner of the viewfinder when you press the shutter button halfway. Usually, with noise reduction turned on for high ISOs and slow shutter speeds, as well as when active D-lighting the number of frames in the buffer drops sharply. Therefore, by disabling these functions you can get the claimed 11 frames. Well, if you do not need RAW, then in high-quality JPEG with advanced settings enabled 16 frames - and this is for 4 seconds of continuous shooting. It is unlikely that someone takes a burst of longer than 4-5 seconds.
Photo on Nikon D5100
When you place the camera in a case (in a photo bag), turn the display with the dark side out, and the LCD monitor in the middle so that the monitor does not scratch during transportation. If shooting in JPEG, I recommend turning on noise reduction at high ISOs and slow shutter speeds. For a saturated picture you can use Active D-lighting in HIGH mode. You can also configure the FN programmable button, which is located next to the flash up button. I usually program the FN button for the ISO control function.
Sample photos on Nikon D5100 using a lens Nikon 50mm f / 1.8G AF-S Nikkor. Photos without processing.
Don't know what to choose?
Usually, a person who wants to buy a camera of this level stops at 2-3 Nikon models. it Nikon D3100, Nikon D5000, Nikon D5100, D5200. I recommend taking a simpler model Nikon D3100, which can do the same thing as the D5100, but its price is much less. D5100 is more suitable for those who like to shoot in poor lighting conditions at high ISO. Saturation and image quality on the D5100 and D3100 very similar to low and medium ISO. Of course newer Nikon D5200 in many ways beats the Nikon D5100.
| D5000 | D5100 | D5200 | |
| Exit time | June 2009 | April 2011 | November 2012 |
| RAW color depth | 12 bit | 14 bit | 14 bit |
| Number of megapixels | 12,20 | 16,08 | 24,00 |
| Burst Speed | 4 fps | 4 fps | 5 fps |
| Minimum ISO | 200,00 | 100,00 | 100,00 |
| Minimum Extensive ISO | 100 (Lo1) | - | - |
| Maximum ISO | 3200,00 | 6400,00 | 6400,00 |
| Maximum Extended ISO | 6400 (Hi1) | 25600 (Hi2) | 25600 (Hi2) |
| Video length max. qualities | 5 minutes | 20 minutes | 20 minutes |
| Video | 1280 x 720 24fps | 1920x1080 30fps | 1920 x 1080 60i |
| Sound | mono | mono | stereo |
| Display | 2.7 inches, 230.000 points | 3 inches, 921.000 points | 3 inches, 921.000 points |
| Focus module | Multi-cam 1000 | Multi-cam 1000 | Multi-CAM 4800DX |
| Number of Focus Points | 11,00 | 11,00 | 39,00 |
| Measurement exposure | 420-pixel RGB sensor | 420-pixel RGB sensor | 2016-pixel RGB sensor |
| Memory cards | SD,SDHC | SD, SDHC, SDXC | SD, SDHC, SDXC (UHS-I) |
| Weight without battery, g | 550,00 | 510,00 | 505,00 |
| HDR | no | Yes | Yes |
I do not recommend buying an older Nikon D5000, it does not have autofocus when shooting video, and it is quite difficult for an ordinary user to focus on sharpness manually.
By the way here a list of all CZKs from Nikonmaybe he will help in choosing.
Photo on Nikon D5100
Prices for modern Nikon cameras in popular stores can look at this link.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Conclusions
Nikon D5100 gives a very good picture one click on the shutter button. Camera for photo lovers who just need a good result in a photo without unnecessary troubles. Full HD and a swivel display makes the camera even more attractive. Given that the camera has a matrix of very high quality Nikon D7000then Nikon D5100 can be used by advanced amateurs as well.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
I found a software for service centers on the Internet - Nikon D5100 inspection and adjustment program ”for autofocus adjustment, metering correction, EEPROM readout and backup, viewfinder LED display test and other tinkering with firmware. It's clear that with crooked hands this program can turn the camera into a brick. Nikon's specialists constantly monitor the release of this program in the public domain and block downloads from file hosting services. I spread the packed program for the brave:
ex.ua/891992618349
Installation is not required. Unpack to any folder. Before starting - edit the D5100STD.INI file in standard notepad. It is necessary to change the line StrCamStdVer = Ver 1.00 [2011-04-10] - register your own firmware version (see the item “setup menu” - “firmware version” after the letter A in the camera menu). The release date of the firmware can be left alone. We connect the camera to the PC via a USB cable. Launching the program is a double click on the exe-shnik. Program password: Moud5100 (click on the button with krakozyabram on the left - confirm it). I warn you: the antivirus will swear at the Trojan in the exe, therefore, disable proactive protection or add the folder with the unpacked program to the exclusions from the antivirus scan. CHECKED PERSONALLY: after starting and closing the program, there were no traces of viral activity. Read more about adjustment: videomax.ru/forum/nikon_topic60157.html
PS The launch of the program was successful, but when trying to align the AF, it gives an error about the need to update the camera firmware (although I have the newest one - A 1.02, and the file D5100STD.INI rules according to the above recommendations).
So go for it. Anyone who succeeds - write.
The program still requires a user key
Sorry. I did not pay attention to the text at the top
Read the topic on adjustment to the end. pp. 5-6 especially
Finally, I picked up such changes in the D5100STD.INI file, which made the program work. Prior to this rule, only the line “StrCamStdVer = Ver 1.00 [2011-04-10]” to “StrCamStdVer = Ver 1.02 [2013-11-14]”. The program kept giving the error “Firmware version error! Main: 01.02.01.00 13/18/29 Update the firmware ”. So I, on the advice of one of the users of the topic on page 5, corrected the specified line to:
[Firmware version]
MainVer = 0x01020100
(according to the version that the program wanted and which it shouted about in an error after the word "Main:")
Works !
Experimentally found that only the first 4 digits after the “x” in the line “MainVer = 0x….” Are important. And editing “StrCamStdVer = Ver 1.00 [2011-04-10]”, “SubVer = 0x….” and “GodMainVer = 0x….” the performance of the program does not change.
Now comes the fun part. I went through all the menu items of the program: Control and adjustment of AE, AF (the names speak for themselves; for the AE control and adjustment of the built-in flash, the program requires a 50 / 1,4 lens and special equipment - a standardized light source and a flash meter; to correct the rotation of the matrix in 3 planes, partial disassembly of the camera is required); Control of the sequence of operations (raises the mirror / opens / closes the shutter / lowers the mirror); Processor version and number of shutter releases worked; LCD-display control (when absolutely all icons and numbers light up at maximum brightness in the OVI and all AF points); Reading FLASH and EEPROM (can be used for backup before picking). I overestimated the capabilities of the program a little. Of all the above, it is really possible to make at home only software correction for the back / front and remove the memory backup. So this program does not allow any hot pixels correction for Nikon D5100. For other models like D800 - yes. And in order to poke around in the binary file of the taken EEPROM backup (for example, to reset the shutter operation counter), you need to be a professional programmer.
As for me, I have eliminated back-focus on my D5100, now I use fifty dollars F1,8 for its intended purpose. :-) I can't get enough of it! Thanks for the "tip" on a very useful topic!
Can you share this software?
Good afternoon,
you accidentally didn’t have this software, so I didn’t find working download links
Is firmware 5100 possible through it? or off battery check?
Neither one nor the other is impossible. The camera is flashed through the menu (the binary firmware file is uploaded to the memory card). And it unlearns from its own battery using online firmware patching. The patcher's address is in one of my posts on the previous pages. There is also a separate program for modifying the firmware. I cannot check the patching effect myself. My camera accepts a Chinese battery without dancing with a tambourine (obviously, this battery with a fake chip). If interested, I can send the program
Dear owners of D5100, tell me if any vibration should be felt during the software cleaning of the matrix. I do not understand - there are no sounds or tactile sensations, as if nothing is happening.
So the cleaning of the matrix is ultrasonic - it is impossible to feel or hear it, it remains to take its word for it. :)
Do you want your camera to jump in your hands? :)
Whatever jumped there is no desire. Thank you for answering and reassuring, I began to doubt the operability of this function.
Do not rely particularly on the automatic cleaning of the matrix, check periodically yourself on a closed diaphragm, and as the spots accumulate, wear to the master for cleaning. You can do it yourself, but I personally do not risk it, and I don’t have a complete set of chemistry for different types of pollution.
At the moment of cleaning the matrix, a short whistle is heard on the verge of perception - and nothing else
I want to buy a d5100 for macro and subject shooting, they write the Live View mode slows down, tell me really with a tripod it will be possible to work normally in this mode with manual focusing? And is it possible to connect the computer to the computer at the time of shooting to immediately evaluate the frame composition and focus on the monitor. Now I use the d40 with Live View there was no robot experience.
The drug really slows down, but you can focus manually even with your hands. When using a tripod, the brake effect does not play a special role.
To assess the focusing accuracy in the LW mode, you can zoom in on the picture on the screen itself, and then manually rotate the focusing ring. With static quiet shooting, I do not see the need to connect the camera to a computer (whether it is possible or not, I don’t know). True, I myself have not tested this opportunity. I shot the subject and the macro from the tripod exactly as I described.
Another point: since Since the matrix has a high resolution, the diffraction limit of the aperture is slightly more than 8. Experimentally, I have established that for the D5100 it makes no sense to clamp the aperture more than 11 because DOF practically does not increase. For shooting models-copies of cars in 1/43 scale (120 (l) x30 (w) x25 (h) mm), the depth of field is barely enough when shooting at 16-85. For shooting brooches, rings - there is enough depth of field for the eyes.
Thanks for the answer
Good evening, Thank you for the excellent reviews of especially the technique that you can apply, I recently bought a manual flash and it turned out that the real sync speed for Nikon d5100 is not 1/200 but 1/250, because there is no band at this shutter speed, that is, the entire frame exposed by the flash and only at 1/320 a strip appears at the bottom, funny but with a built-in flash the camera doesn’t allow you to put 1/250 it gives only 1/200.
I confirm: with a shutter speed of 1/250 and a manual flash, the frame is exposed evenly. I wonder - is this another trick of Nikon's marketers, or the sync speed of 1/200 with the built-in flash was chosen taking into account the shutter errors? That is, at 1/200 the shutter is always guaranteed to open to its full width, and at 1/250 this may not always happen, which will entail the appearance of a black bar at the bottom of the frame?
Apparently, the account for the “lag” of the flash has been added. I also tested the work with manual flashes - when synchronizing by the front curtain and a short distance to the object (5-7 meters), you can use 1/250. But if the distance is large (> 10 meters), as well as during rear-curtain synchronization at 1/250, a darkened bar appears at the bottom of the frame. Also, when using Yongnuo-603 radio synchronizers and rear curtain synchronization, even at 1/200 a dark line appears, although 1/320 is declared for synchronizers. So when working with synchronizers I use 1/160
Please tell me where can I download the manual for the Nikon 5100 with the ability to print?
http://www.nikonsupport.eu/europe/Manuals/D5100/D5100RM_Ru_02.pdf
Thank you
Good day. Can you tell me what is possible that when photographing with a Nikon D3100 camera, what is being photographed is displayed on the display, and not have to look out the window?
If you put your words together, then you can assume that you need a "live view" mode. There is such a lever near the thumb of the right hand when holding the camera .. The reference point is a red dot for video recording ..
Hello! Tell me, please, what kind of adapter is needed for this camera to connect the Helios 44-3 lens?
Adapter ring KP 42 / N. Only infinity is lost - there are 44 different working segments in the cameras of Nikon and Zenit Helios. You can focus only at distances up to 3-4 m. There are rings with additional. corrective lens that returns infinity, but this lens degrades the image quality.
Clear. Thank you very much for your reply!
PS By the way, craftsmen have learned how to make changes to the lens design so that there is infinity. Option 1 - the shank is unscrewed from the lens, the lens unit is removed, the rear lens is unscrewed. Then the factory alignment ring is removed, which stands between the lens groups. And empirically, a ring of such thickness is selected when norms appear. aiming at infinity. What happens to the zone of close distances - no idea. He could not disassemble his Helios 44-2 (the thread of the shank got stuck). Option 2 - blgar
PS By the way, craftsmen have learned how to make changes to the lens design so that there is infinity. Option 1 - the shank is unscrewed from the lens, the lens unit is removed, the rear lens is unscrewed. Then the factory alignment ring is removed, which stands between the lens groups. And empirically, a ring of such thickness is selected when norms appear. aiming at infinity. What happens to the zone of close distances - no idea. He could not disassemble his Helios 44-2 (the thread of the case stuck). Option 2 - grind off a couple of mm of the stop protrusion of the shank on a grinder or a file, thus making the lens fit in the bayonet deeper. But there is a risk of overdoing it and removing the metal layer a little more than necessary (the lens body is made of soft alloy - duralumin). As a result, the shank can generally fly off (((
My D5100 went through 103 thousand in 4 years of operation - sometimes I earn money with it, but mostly amateur photography. So far, there are no complaints about the work (there is dust in the viewfinder, on the matrix of norms). I am going to buy d7100, and leave 5100 as the second reserve carcass.
Question to the experts: is there a need to give the carcass to the service?
There is a saying - they don't look for good from good. If d5100 works well, then you shouldn't give it to unfamiliar uncles. Unfortunately, not only professionals work in the service. They will break to hell and say that it was so There were precedents, so if I were you I would not risk it. 103 thousand is a solid mileage for such a camera. The service will not reduce its wear. And if it makes sense to change the shutter, then only after it breaks, but not just in case. Moreover, you will have another main carcass, and this one will be in the wings.
Hello dear Arkady! On page 12 of this thread, the question was again raised about the adequacy of the Skinton 5100 model transfer. On the Internet, in general, the topic of inappropriate transfer of skinton from NIKON is discussed very actively. And this question is very interesting, especially to NIKON owners, but, unfortunately, there are practically no reasoned answers and serious tests and professional assessments. In this regard, a number of issues arise:
1. Does NIKON really have this problem or is it a banal marketing war of competitors
2. If NIKON has this problem, then are all device models
3. And the last, for example, whether the skinton transmission will be more adequate, let's say the Canon 700D, in contrast to the Nikon D5300, for example.
ps I don’t have any religious preferences Nikon / Canon and it would be interesting to hear your professional opinion on this issue. THANKS.
The topic is fully disclosed in the “question answer” thread, thanks to all colleagues.
taking pictures from a tripod, flash 1/32, the screen is constantly on and Lv is on - the battery is enough for an hour and a half of work, there are not a lot of 20-30 frames during this time, but a lot of views. Is it normal for the battery to drain so quickly? The camera is new, I already think it might have slipped a bad battery?
1. Life view is eating a lot of battery.
2. My new battery “swayed” only after the third recharge (the charge lasted less than 100 frames). But then - everything went according to the instructions. I am guaranteed to do 250-300 shots on a single charge.
As Sergey wrote, the camera is very gluttonous in live-view mode: you need to constantly power the matrix - this time, you need to power a constantly working display - that's two, well, plus you need to hold the “slider” of the diaphragm with an electromagnet.
My 5100 is on a native battery, and a good Chinese battery can shoot about 90 minutes of video, with manual focus and a closed lens cover, with a bad Chinese battery - about 40 minutes. - this is how I tested the capacity of the batteries, because there was a suspicion that the Chinese one was very weak, which was confirmed. After a year of infrequent exploitation, the “bad Chinese” also swelled up and was scrapped.
In normal mode, the photo of the native battery is enough for about 1000 frames.
The DSLR is not specifically designed to work with life view, the optimization of energy consumption is done for working with the viewfinder. In addition, the flash also takes a lot of power. For such purposes, if you use both flash and life view, it is better to buy a batlock (anyway, on a tripod, not around the neck). In China (ebay, ali) in less than 2 thousand you will find a battery with an additional battery. Double the operating time by half. By the way, there’s another question, but did you try to shoot not from a tripod and without flash and life view? How many frames are there? I had a d5100, it was enough for 600-800 frames approximately, with viewing photos on the screen and setting on the screen too. If in normal mode the battery runs out so quickly, then yes, there are problems in it.
But for DSLRs there are no power supplies from the network?
It happens.
Older Nikons, for example, have a power socket.
For younger models, everything is more complicated: you need to buy a special adapter in the format of a native battery, which the camera takes for a battery. A wire comes out of this adapter (in the area of the battery socket there is a hinged plug, and a wire is led out through this hole), at the end of the wire there is a socket into which the power supply is connected.
That's just such an adapter in the CIS you will find horseradish, and it will most likely cost more than a branded battery + PSU.
You can, of course, do it yourself, but for this you need a battery case and its controller - you can use a dead battery, + you need to make a power supply unit with a voltage of 7,0-7,4 volts ... In short, it's all dreary.
I bought myself a battery grip for 5100 and three good Chinese batteries (+ native - a total of 4 batteries). If you don't shoot the video and don't drive it to LV, then while you put a couple of batteries, the second one has time to charge (even in turn, in one charger). I don't really use LiveView and video, but if a pair of batteries lasts for two hours, then during this time one battery in one charger will be charged.
Also, in principle, you can connect the power supply unit to the battery handle, but again you need to understand a little about electronics, at first I wanted to do this, and then I scored - I have enough batteries, and no laces hang from the camera down.
It is possible to watch the film in HD quality so far only on a pirate site, until it is deleted. Here is the link u.to/4MGWCw
Shift + Del, please.
Found on the net presets of the Picture Control mode from Fuji cameras. I checked it on my D5100 - everything came up, the effects are quite interesting (Kodak Ektachrome P, Fuji Velvia, Fuji Astia, Agfa Optima, sReala, Portra NC, Kodak Kodachrome, Top Gear, Fuji Superia Reala). Try it! Perhaps they will fit other Nikon cameras.
Download link ex.ua/867690422437
Say how to enable fast shooting ???
What do you mean: a short shutter speed, for shooting moving objects, or high-speed shooting (4 frames per second)?
Read the instructions.
When working in the "m" mode, with a manual lens, each time after the shutter is released, the shutter speed changes, different from the previous one. This is normal?
Hmmm .. how do you determine if the shutter speed is different? According to exif files?
According to the on-screen menu and the picture quality.
In M mode? on a lens without a chip? despite the fact that you do not touch the control wheels?
then it’s rather some kind of glitch of the camera.
Try taking a few frames in M mode with the lens removed. If this happens again, then this is not normal.
But for the sake of fidelity, I would still have to see the EXIF files - the excerpt indicated there.
Now I realized what happened. AE exposure bracketing was turned on and the device worked it out manually in sequence.
"What the current does not happen")
That is, when working out, let's say the shutter speed is 200, the next one was set automatically by 250, and then 160. I repeat all this happens in the MANUAL MODE.
You probably turned on bracketing.
Read the instructions for the device, useful.
Great machine. I also have one. With good optics, it gives a good picture. A photographer I know (she has Canon 7d) sometimes takes a photo of mine. Blue is not planned. Skinton is good. Especially if children's photos (I myself am a children's photographer). Do not blame the mirror ... Take pictures for yourself!
The blue in the shade is present unambiguously, it is corrected by adjusting the white balance.
Good evening everyone! Years 2-3, I really wanted to buy this model, D5100, but after much deliberation in terms of the fact that there would be no particular opportunity to update the optics park ... phot did not take it. Instead of the D5100, I took the Nikon P7100 “soap box”, which at that time was one of the best. I will not say that the quality of the pictures is not satisfactory, I am very pleased with the camera, but I still want something "older". Now I look at the mirrors again, but it's rather difficult to decide. D3000, D3100 immediately threw aside. I can't decide between the more recent D5100 and the old but pretty good D200. The latter is very attractive for its functionality, ease of use, motor, nice picture, the ability to use old manual glasses in semi-automatic mode ... but now it is quite difficult to find a D200 in good, not killed condition for adequate money. What do experienced comrades recommend? Looking for a live D200 or is it D5100 ???
I would look for a used D7000 (D7100) - the matrix is the same as on the 5100 + work with manual and non-motorized optics, and the D7000 can be found with low mileage for adequate money. I worked with the D4 for 5100 years (I am very pleased with the device), I did not take the D7000, I took the D7100 (new), I thought it was used, but I could not find it.
D200, IMHO, is outdated.
I would be glad D7000-D7100, but even used at prices goes far beyond my budget ((((
D200 in all respects is better than D5100 except
- images
- and everything related to the picture.
on D200 - a very old matrix. strong.
the difference in the picture is clearly visible.
Dear gurus of photo art! Give advice, I myself can’t decide already the fourth day))))) There is a choice between such sets:
1) Nikon D200, 2 Transcend CF 8 Gb 133x memory cards, 3 batteries (native + 2 analogs), radio remote control, battery, protective glass on the display, about 70 thousand mileage !!!
2) Nikon D200, 1 SanDisk 4 Gb memory card, 1 battery, charger, 18 thousand mileage!
Of course, I tend to the first option, since there are more bonuses, but the mileage of 70 thousand is embarrassing, although for the D200 the shutter resource is 100 thousand, and some work for 200 thousand or more .... as you are lucky.
The price of both sets is the same !!!
I with a mileage of 100 took d000s. Works great
if I'm not mistaken, the 300 has a resource of 150 thousand. It's just that the first option with 70 thousand mileage is in the hands of a professional person. The second option was used for amateur purposes ...
the declared resource of the shutter is conventional marketing. the company has no obligations. you can declare both 300K and 1 million. You can declare 100K for the younger model and 150K for the older one for the same shutter (it is done by OEM not by Nikon). marketing, nothing personal.
shutters from 30K break on both the D800 and the D700. and some serve 200K on younger models.
I then got an idea about the power supply of the camera. Genuine batteries are expensive. I bought a Chinese counterfeit with a chip - the camera recognized it as “its own,” but out of the declared capacity of 1030 mAh there was not even a third. And now on sale there are many flat Li-Ion batteries for 3000-4000 mAh for mobile phones. The essence of the idea: using the Meike battery pack for Nikon D5100, insert into it an empty case of a Chinese chip-based battery with a cut-off bottom and conductors soldered to the inside of the contacts. Connect a battery with 2 batteries from mobiles connected in series to them. Attach the battery to the body of the battery pack with adhesive tape (capacious batteries for 3000 mAh and no longer fit in the width into the nests of the unit, and narrow Nokia BL-5Cs have a capacity of only 900 mAh). 3,7V + 3,7V = 7,4V. The capacity of an impromptu battery will be 3000-4000 mAh. The original Nikon EN-EL14 battery gives a voltage of 7,4V with a capacity of 1030 mAh.
on solders in any way resistance. Maybe not a ride. And why - the win can turn into a screwed up camera. At 5100 you can experiment, but on expensive cameras I would not
I answered you below (for some reason the answer did not “stick”, but became a separate comment)
Gentlemen
After reading just a few pages of comments, I already feel like a record is stuck somewhere and the same melody plays many times in a row.
Why, instead of finding out what is really possible to get on this sensor-glass, ask the same questions where such and such a setting is in the menu
and what is better than nikon or canon ...?
I apologize if the comment is off topic.
But thanks to the author.
I like macro photography and really want to master it, but I got stuck in choosing a lens for such a desire - I don't know which one to choose. Please help me in choosing, because there are those who are keen on macro photography. Budget 25 tr. I would really appreciate your answer / advice.
- Industar 26, industar 26m, industrial 50-2. - 300-500 rubles.
- adapter ring М42-nikon - 100-200 rubles.
- A set of Soviet macro rings for M42 - 300-500 rubles.
Total - 700-1200 rubles.
Plus to buy Soviet macro fur, on M42, or modern, on Nikon bayonet - from 300 to 3 thousand rubles.
Total - from 1000 to 2,5 thousand rubles.
oh yes, well, a flash + a tripod.
to try macro - there is such a lens
Nikon AF-S DX Micro-NIKKOR 40mm f / 2.8G Lens
price 250doll
of the minuses - it is necessary to strongly move towards the object.
but it is also a good prime - it replaces 35mm and 50mm :)
classic lens for working with macro - Tamron 90mm.
the price is about 300 dollars. great portraiture.
Lynx, Alexey thanks for the advice, but you need a lens. There are macro rings - not that.
Alexei, do you mean the TAMRON SP 90 2,8 Makro 1: 1 272 E lens?
How strong macro is needed? A macro lens will not give a super macro.
What is super macro for you?
For me it is from 2: 1 and larger.
Used G-44-2 and two sets of M42 macro rings
It is unlikely that macro with macro lenses will satisfy you.
However, it doesn't matter, 105 mm from Nikon are considered classics - D and D versions.
Forty sucks, two hundred dreams, a heap of classic, so there are sixty compromises. Everyone, except for the fortieth, can use a set of macro rings 12-20-36 mm. Without macro rings, all these lenses can issue on MDF! 1x1 scale. With a full set of 2x1 macro rings. There are also macro lenses, but using more than x2 diopters is fraught with severe deterioration.
well ... he doesn’t need the macro rings!
"Only objective for 24 tyshiii !!!!!"
Pictures from the industrial do not suit him.
Apparently he does not need this for portraits of nocturnal butterflies.
and not even for nocturnal butterflies, lying down on sheets.
Pauchkoff zhostochitstsa.
yes, for spiders, you need 105.)))
But I don’t think that a high-quality interesting macro can now be shot without good rails with microstepping. Although artistic - definitely possible!
In my understanding, stacking is one of the many styles of macro photography, but the fact that it’s very difficult to get a cool picture without high-quality micro-stepping rails is a fact. And here is an example of this, an unsuccessful attempt to use a caliper.
the barbell is in our opinion!
So!