The full name of the lens written on its body is Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical, but it is commonly called Nikon 50 / 1.8G.
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical with hood HB-47
Nikon 50 / 1.8G - it's fast fifty-degree autofocus lens from Nikon. 'Poltina' or 'fifty-kopeck' is the common name for a lens with a focal length of 50 mm. This focal length is very popular. On old cameras, XNUMX rubles were often installed as a standard lens, but nowadays, XNUMX rubles are attractive for a low price and excellent image quality.
The Nikon 50 / 1.8G lens is an upgrade to the legendary Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor from film cameras. The upgrade touched on the aperture control method, the optical circuit and the built-in focus motor. The new model is heavier and larger in size.
All Nikon 50 / 1.8 Autofocus Lenses
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor (first version, MKI) - the lens was produced only in Japan from 1986 to 1990. It is easy to distinguish by a window with a focusing distance and a narrow plastic focus ring. There are two subversions that are no different:
- MKI first subversion. Weighing 210 grams. It is easy to distinguish by the screw under the inscription '1: 1.8'. From September 1986 to March 1987. Serial numbers start at 2
- MKI second version. Weighing 165 grams. It is easy to distinguish by the absence of a screw under the inscription '1: 1.8'. From 1987 to 1990. Serial numbers start at 3.
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8 AF Nikkor (second version, MKII, also known as the 'N', or the 'NEW' version) - the lens was produced in Japan and China. The MK II version was produced from 1990 to 2001. There are three subversions that are no different:
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor (third version, MKIIIbetter known as 'D'-version) - the lens is available from 2002 to this day. All lenses are made in China.
- Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical (fourth version, MKIVbetter known as '1.8 G'-version or '1.8 AF-S' version) - the lens has been produced since 2011, all lenses are made in China.
- Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical Special Edition (fifth version, MKVbetter known as version 'Special Edition' or 'SE' or version for the camera with a retro design of the case Nikon Df) - the lens has been available since the fall of 2013. All lenses are made in China.
- Nikon Nikkor Z 50mm 1: 1.8 S, from summer 2018, lens for mirrorless cameras with Nikon Z mount... Diagram of 12 elements in 9 groups, 2 ED, 2 ASP.
Details on the lineup of fifty dollars from Nikon can be found in my article 'All Nikon autofocus fifty dollars'.
Main technical characteristics of the Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical
| Review Instance Name | Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical 2153108 |
| Basic properties |
|
| Front Filter Diameter | 58 mm, plastic thread for filters |
| Focal length | 50 mm, EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 75 mm |
| Zoom ratio | 1 X (this is a fixed lens, it does not have a zoom) |
| Designed by | for full-frame digital cameras |
| Number of aperture blades | 7 pieces |
| Tags | focusing distance in meters and feet, depth of field for F / 16, mark of bayonet mount and hood mount |
| Diaphragm | F / 1.8 to F / 16, without aperture ring. |
| MDF | 0.45 m, maximal magnification factor 1: 6.7 |
| The weight | 185 g |
| Optical design | 7 elements in 6 groups, 1 aspherical element (in the optical diagram, the aspherical element is shown in blue). This is Nikon's first fifty kopeck piece to use aspherical elements in its design. The Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical Special Edition has exactly the same optical design. The image is clickable.
|
| Lens hood | Nikon HB-47 |
| Manufacturer country | MADE IN CHINA |
| Period | From April 2011 -> |
| Instructions | See |
| Price |
Nikon since available Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor, has not updated its set of fifty dollars for a long time. Before the Nikon 50 / 1.8G was released, there was only a choice between expensive f / 1.4 models and between the old non-motorized Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor... With the release of the new, relatively cheap Nikon 50 / 1.8G, users non-powered cameras got the opportunity to use aperture poltina without special investment.
Rear view of the Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical
Most importantly, what you need to know about the Nikon 50 / 1.8G:
1. The lens is also suitable for FX and DX cameras. That is, the lens can be used at full frame, for example, on full-frame FX cameras Nikon D600, D3s, D800, D750 etc., and on cropped cameras, for example, on Nikon D3300, D90, D5200 etc.
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical Lens with Two Lids
2. The lens has focus motor Silent Wave Motor (SWM), which means the lens can be used for everyone Nikon digital SLR cameras. The lens will automatically focus even on entry-level non-powered cameras: D40, D40x, D60, D3000, D3100, D3200, D3300, D5000, D5100, D5200, D5300, D5500.
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical Lens Information Labels
3. The lens is marked “G”. This means the Nikon 50 / 1.8G has no aperture ring. The diaphragm is controlled only by the camera. This will prevent the lens from being used on older film cameras, or for example for macro with reversible adapter... This is not a disadvantage, but a tribute to the times. Almost all lenses now come without an aperture ring. You can read more about 'G' and 'Non-G' lenses here.
Enlightenment of the front lens and aperture blades Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical
4. The diameter of the front filter is 58 mm, the same as that of Nikon 50mm f / 1.4G AF-S Nikkor. The lens is made of plastic, the assembly is good. Bayonet mount metal. All Nikon 50 / 1.8G lenses are manufactured in China.
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical fixed lens and universal lens Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3.5-5.6GII ED SWM VR IF Aspherical
5. Focusing method. When focusing, the entire lens block moves. It is very important that the lens does not have internal focus. But at the same time, the method itself is made quite unusual, when focusing, the inner part of the lens moves, which is located in the middle of the pyramidal front frame. And that means that the trunk of the lens does not extend or rotate when focusing.
A fifty-fifty Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical and a true portrait lens Nikon AF DC-Nikkor 105mm 1: 2D
6. High speed focus. But always remember that the speed and accuracy of focusing is also associated with the camera itself and a number of other factors. The lens has focus distance scale. The distance is indicated in meters and feet. There is also a depth of field scale for F / 16.
7. On the lens housing can be found focus switch 'M / A - M'. In the 'M / A' position, auto focus works with constant manual focus priority. The 'M / A' mode is very convenient and useful - for manual focusing or focus correction, you do not need to additionally switch the lens to the 'M' mode.
8. The minimum focusing distance is 45 cm. The maximum ratio when magnified is 1: 6.7. You can’t shoot a macro with this lens, but at the same time it’s easy to shoot small objects.
9. When used on cropped cameras with Nikon DX, the viewing angle will be narrower than at full frame. It will appear that the viewing angle will be equivalent to the lens 75 mm full frame... This allows using the lens on cameras with a cropped matrix without any problems as a good portrait lens. But, please note that in fact Nikon 50 / 1.8G is just a universal fast prime lens, and it is not designed for a portrait. Anyway, the classic focal length for portraits starts at 80 mm.
10. Aperture. Yes, f / 1.8 is great aperture for shooting in low light. The lens can really be used in low light conditions. Well, if you want an even brighter lens, then you need to look at its brothers - Nikon 50mm f / 1.4G AF-S Nikkor and Nikon 50mm f / 1.4D AF Nikkor.
This is what the Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical looks like after prolonged use
About the picture (photo quality)
The image is sharp already with F / 1.8. Maximum sharpness is achieved in the area of the aperture F / 5.6. The contrast is very good. The lens tolerates back and side light, sometimes it can catch hares. The bokeh of the lens is smooth and smooth, not as rough as that of Nikon 50mm 1: 1.8D AF Nikkor. When the aperture is closed, the lens makes of luminous objects 14 beam stars. On the open diaphragm, pronounced freezing. Chromatic aberrations quite strong up to F2.8, but this is typical of this kind of lenses. By the way, Nikon 50 / 1.8G for 2013 is Nikon's only fifty dollars using special aspherical element. In general, image quality is on top.
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical on camera Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro
Sample photos on Nikon D5100
All photos from Nikon D5100 without treatment. Reduced size and imprinted data with EXIF.
You will find many more examples in my post 'Fall 2020 on Nikon D40 and Nikkor 50 / 1.8G'
Sample photos on Nikon D700
In more detail about all-all 50-mm fast autofocus lenses Nikon can read here.
Sample photos on Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro
Examples on the legendary camera Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro (Nikon F mount) see here.
Video review
Video review available at this link, or embedded below:
Lens prices
Real prices for the lens in online stores can
- View on E-katalog
- View on Euroset
- View on Outlet
- View on Magazilla
- Look at Ozone
- View on Nadavi
- View in Svyaznoy
- View on M. Video
Conclusions
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical is a good fast prime. Suitable as a budget portrait lens on DX cameras, it has good sharpness and color reproduction. I believe Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical the most optimal fifty dollars in the price \ quality section.
UPDATE: in 2016, a Chinese copy of this lens appeared at a cost 2-3 times lower than the original. See YONGNUO 50mm 1: 1.8 review (YN50mm F1.8N).
If there are any incomprehensible moments on the lens, ask me in the comments.
Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Dimensions are not important to me. Tired of shooting, though weekly, but with a soap box. Children grow up, but there are no normal photos and videos. Like everyone wants quality and simplicity. I started reading the forums and I understand that photography is a philosophy into which you immerse yourself, if not headlong, then neck-deep, so for sure. So I rack my brains to just take it and not very expensive and for all cases. At the same time, video recording is also important.
And what is confusing is the fact that the same lenses who praise, and to whom they are solid soap. So figure it out
A single answer simply does not exist.
Otozh.
Well, I think to start with the whale and the 35th fix. I will study and try. Thank you for the answers. I think further into the forest, more questions. God will give another write
35 very, very suitable for filming children.
I have a bunch of D5100 and 50mm f1,8. Has anyone encountered this, when shooting from a distance of 1-1,5 meters, the portrait will be sharp, and moving away by 2-3 meters (a full-length portrait of a child) will the front focus be obtained? I clamp the hole to 2,8. It looks like a shift focus lens.
Make a normal alignment check of the lens, and everything will become clear. Budget carcasses are not rare front-back, and it is detected only on high-aperture optics. I didn’t know that he was on my D5100 until I tried to screw 50 / 1,4 on it
I drove a carcass and the entire fleet of optics to the official Nikon service center in Moscow (50 / 1,8; 85 / 1,8; 18-55 / 3,5-5,6; 55-200 / 4-5,6). When picked up, checked, everything seems to be fine. But I checked it more carefully and there were misses of autofocus. Once again, it was not possible to go to the service center. Sent two lenses (50 and 85) for adjustment by mail. Thought there was a problem with the lenses. The benefit is all free, while under warranty. When they returned it turned out that the problem did not go away. And I still suffer.
The problem is apparently in the carcass. I have an old Nikon D50 carcass. I mount the lenses on it, they seem to take off normally.
Gennady
Since I encountered the same focusing features of 50 1.8g, despite the fact that the lenses and the D7000 camera were calibrated in the SC, I can advise you to use contrast autofocus on open apertures, and when using phase aperture, look for contrast details.
Thanks for the advice. I do not like to use contrast autofocus due to slowness, although it works out perfectly. I will phase catch contrasting details.))
A couple of thoughts about the sharpness of 50 mm 1.8g. And a few words of thanks to Arkady for the work.
I always thought that if you put nikon 50 mm 1.8 g on the crop (I use this, the same story with 70-300vr), the central region will work and the sharpness will be excellent throughout the frame. In fact, it is. I also believed that if the lens pulls multi-pixels, then the normal matrix will be drawn all the more.
But today I noticed on dxomark.com figures for the sharpness of this lens in conjunction with the nikon D800E - 23 P-mpix, and in conjunction with the Nikon D7000 - only 10 P-Mpix. It turns out that the camera decided everything in the lens test)) That's right. Fewer pixels, worse result (sharpness) - there is logic. Only the result is the sharpness of some torn pixels from the test photo in artificial conditions. And people evaluating this lens are very willing to look at the numbers (including myself), but in terms of photography, it turns out a lie. A good lens for artificial numbers is not very good. Bottom line: Many thanks to Arkady for making live reviews that help in reality. And thanks to the people who share their real experience with this lens! Thanks to these tips, I bought it at one time.
yes in dxo no faith. Their crop by DD bypasses the full frame, all Nikons are cooler than the canons and the glass rating is calculated taking into account the carcass. The strangest characteristic for me is the color in bits or something like that. What it means is incomprehensible and has nothing to do with color. Because only real testers can be relied on, and dxo is the same spherical horse in a vacuum
Please tell me, how often does this lens come across with a back, front focus? Can you safely order delivery by mail, or is it better to go to the city and buy and test on the spot? D5100 camera
as always - no more than one at a time. ))
if you strive, then it is better to test.
Such things always need to be tested, either taken so that they can be returned, or exchanged
hello, and again I am nowhere without you. I have d3200 + 18-105 and flash sb700. Now the husband makes a gift. What to choose: 35 mm or 50 mm? I shoot mostly mornings and holidays in kindergartens, and then staged photos with parents, teachers, and so on a little family, couples in love, children in nature, thanks in advance
In principle, everything is quite simple, at 50 mm, a child about 1 meter tall fully fits into the frame with a portrait orientation from three meters, and in a horizontal one from four meters. Accordingly, if the children are taller, then it is necessary to move further, well, fifty dollars is better to blur the background. With 35koy you will not have any difficulties either indoors or outdoors, the only thing is that facial portraits will not look as profitable as 50mm.
and if to combine? if the mornings (group photos) are taken at 18-105 (there is a good flash), and only then the photos of the children separately, with parents, couples, etc., that is, staged photos taken at 50 mm? I really liked the photo from 50 mm, oh and another question, and on my cropped camera 50 mm will be like 75? those. can I set my zoom to 75 and compare? or still set the zoom to 50 mm and practice?
50mm zoom
thank you
On all lenses, regardless of whether they are made for cropped cameras or for a full frame, the focal lengths are the same and they all refer to the full frame. With your camera you need to recount all focal lengths. But soon you will get used to it and stop paying attention to it. Shoot at 35mm and 50mm and you will understand what width will be enough for you. But for a portrait it is still preferable to use a longer telephoto lens than 50mm. Make a face portrait at 50mm 5,6 and at 105mm 5,6, the difference should be noticeable even on a simple 18-105.
And keep in mind, a fifty-fifty picture will remain a fifty-fifty picture, despite the fact that the viewing angle will be equivalent to a 75mm focal length.
Ask your husband if he agrees to give you the AF-S 85 mm f1,8 g? Your portraits will become much more interesting.
Tell me, is this lens suitable for food photography?
in general, yes.
And what would you recommend for shooting food?
I am not a great specialist in this direction, but I can say that, judging by the samples presented in the internet, focal lengths from 35 to 50 mm are most often used, with sufficiently clamped apertures at f / 7-f / 13 and on a tripod. Therefore, here the type of lens fades into the background a little - even on a whale one it will be quite sharp and not bad.
So 50 / 1,8 that 35 / 1,8, that 18-55 / 3,5-5,6 I think there will be no great difference, especially for a beginner.
I'm shooting on a Nikon 3100 with a tripod. The lens is Kitovsky, but I do not like colors, there is no saturation, sufficient clarity. Or maybe it's all about post-processing
the lens is not responsible for color and saturation.
And then what? Sorry for the obsession))
The matrix (in this regard, from a, although very suitable, but still an initial camera, it is difficult to expect the result from both a professional full-frame) and frame processing in Photoshop and lightroom.
Well, the ability to shoot all the same. Pinch the diaphragm to 8-13 and learn how to work with light and photo processing.
Look on YouTube for a video about how to make food photography, you’ll be surprised, but cool pros often use not natural products, but objects that are not food at all. And this is all due to the color and texture, and also due to the fact that not all products can maintain a fresh or at least initial appearance during the whole time of filming. Well, post processing, respectively, is very serious. Therefore, the lens in this case is not the main one, but one of the many components of success.
Why not DF? :)
nothing.
and the lens? :)
without a silver ring.
insecurely. )
Good afternoon. I have such a lens. Sharp, bright, happy, in general. But recently I noticed such a thing, when switching to “MF” nothing changes. It also adjusts focus. I had to turn it off in the camera menu. So it should be, or is something wrong? I took it second-hand.
Most likely, the switch simply does not work.
Thanks, Arkady. Somehow I will have the courage to open it and take a look.
Tell me please . This lens is suitable for the night sky or stars. Will the milky way be visible? If there are shooting results I will be very happy. Just do not be silent)
Acquired Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.8G SWM Aspherical lens for my Nikon D3300. Because I wanted more sharpness in the pictures. Chinese friends have tried - they have created an optical device, where the price-quality is optimal - about 200 USD. "Green". After all, kit lenses are not sharp enough. That's why they are whales. :) But they have a stabilizer - this is a huge plus for them. Focusing is instantaneous, which was somewhat surprising. And no roar. I just hear a beep and see a green dot in the viewfinder. Reporters will be happy. And I only work in manual mode "M". There is no need to use automation. I shoot slowly.
You are well done.
and you will catch a lot on the reporting in the manual mode ???
sorry not there!
Please tell me what SE is in the specification for the Nikon AF-S 50mm f / 1.8G SE lens
A special version of the Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm F / 1.3G and a whale lens for the Nikon Df SLR camera with a retro design. The appearance of the Special Edition is similar to that of the Nikon AI series lenses, however the optical design is modern and does not differ from that of the regular 50mm F / 18G.
http://aflenses.net/id/33303
Tell me please, is it worth contacting with a store guarantee when buying a lens or is it better to pay extra for an official?
If the difference is not significant better official.
nikkor af-s 50mm f / 1.8g
Hey. He just returned from the store, where such a new one costs 7000 rubles. Take? I now have D5300 + 18-55. I think it is necessary
If this amount is not critical for you, take it, you will feel what aperture optics are in contrast to whale optics, but keep in mind, then you will want even more and even more expensive. Which in general is not bad.
The lens for 7000 rubles (10000 rubles is its average price at the moment) with amazing sharpness, fast focusing, universal focal length of 50mm - take it without hesitation! Aperture is secondary, because the aperture F = 5,6 is often used :)
Do an analysis of your photos (at 18-55), how often do you use a 50mm FR. There are special programs, but you can, for example, look at TotalCommander.
Look, and decide whether you need a fifty dollars, or maybe better 35mm, or 85?
Thank you for the review!
went to buy;)
Thanks for the review!
But the question still remains. On the D40 (in the future I want ff) does it make sense to consider the "fifty dollars" as universal for portraits on the street and subject shooting of small objects (for example, haberdashery, bags, backpacks, etc.)?
Once again I re-read the review. and again and again I return to it))
For several months I have been working on skills with "Helios 81n". Screwed to Nikon d3100.
Also got Jupiter 11.
Now I have a choice, having seen enough reviews, articles, videos.
Leave the d3100 and understaff 50 mm 1.8, and later completely replace it with 85.
Or take the d200-d300 and for some time still try to work on Soviet hardware.?
photos of leaves, nature, friends - it's not that)
But since the budget is limited (the course bites oh, how ... Ukraine), and the desire has no limit - I ask for help)
Thank you in advance for your reply!
From the change of optics there will be more sense. But why take a fifty dollars if you are going to change it to 85? Take immediately 85-ku (the more fifty dollars you already have, albeit not AF).
Changing the D3100 to the D300 makes sense if you need a professional reporting camera.
Grateful for the response!
85 is preferable, I think all the same invested funds will pay off)
I think there will be more sense from the d300 (300s - I'm not sure what video is needed, and you can get used to the joystick) + 85. Well, the Soviet glass will remain.
Reporting in the forefront of "priority".
Allow me one more question - I will sell the d3100 carcass, I will leave the optics from the union.
I plan to assemble a kit for wedding shooting. So: d300 / 300s, helios 81n remains (as a creative portraiture) + take an 85 mm fix or some kind of zoom? Very worried, so as not to fly with a choice. ((
Thanks in advance to everyone who responds !!! =)
One 85 for a wedding will not be enough (we mean 'reportage' shooting): you and him will not be able to rent newlyweds in a small apartment, for example (and not in every registry office). Therefore, a zoom of the 17-50 / 2,8 type is desirable. One 17-50 is also indispensable (a wedding without a portraitist ...).
Those. A good set is 17-50 / 2,8 (or 17-55 / 2,8) + 85 / 1,8 (or something like 80-200, but this is both weight and price).
For the first time, a set 85 / 1,8 + 'kit' of type 18-55 may be enough (but, of course, do not expect a strong blur from it), then replace 18-55 with 17-50 / 2,8.
Taking into account the small number of megapixels in the D300, the same Tamron 17-50 / 2,8 will do quite well, some scold him for a 'flat picture', another option is Sigma, but the best, of course, will be Nikkor 17-55 / 2,8 ...
We are not talking about manual optics, because in reportage conditions not time for manual focusing, let's leave it 'for the soul' - for a leisurely walk with a pretty girl, for example :-)
HUGE THANKS!
I am very grateful to you for the human and professional answer-advice!
I also forgot to indicate that there was a whale from d3100, 18-55, though not at all 2.8)
Manual - I understand that for the soul, but I really like to tinker with the focus with my hands)
I would like my native Nikon optics for different focal lengths, but the option with a tamron or sigma is now a priority, since nevertheless the financial issue is one of the priority ones.
Nevertheless, I decided to take the d300, saving a little, I’ll better invest in optics.
Although I’m sure that the dilemma just won’t leave me =)
I decided to buy a new lens after I figured out with my first nikon d3100 SLR and realized that the standard lens was no longer enough to realize my ideas and desires.
For previous posts, I wanted to ask for advice on choosing a d300.
Mileage over 100 thousand (there are also 150+), is it worth it to look at such options and generally what to look for when buying?
close the lens with a cap and photograph for dead pixels, the external state. I don’t want to get into the hole.
thanks in advance!
I would not take a device with a mileage of more than 50-60 thousand.
Look first at the appearance: chips, scratches, cracks, etc., checking the mechanical condition of all buttons, levers, switches.
Then check for dead / hot pixels - on a black background (closed mount / lens), on a white background (intentional overexposure) - and then, and then at low and high ISO (although hot pixels are more often manifested at high). The photo is viewed on a PC / laptop monitor (on the display of the device you may not even notice), with 100% or 200% magnification.
Next, checking the AF operation at different focusing points, in different modes, at different distances (better with several lenses, better with fast lenses), checking the operation of the exposure meter in PAS- (M) modes
This is briefly, but in general there are detailed instructions for checking the device before purchase in tyrnet.
took with 100 mileage and norms. Colleagues have photos with a million mileage !! (second penny) and still works at 000 shutter. It looks terrible - torn, without an eyecup and buttons are pressed, but it works, stsuka)))
Thanks, for the answer!)
Checking the external state and the operability of the focus and buttons - I will certainly not forget this)
I mean, maybe there are some subtleties of the d300. I reread the darkness of articles and posts on the forums.
Dmitry K - so I came across several reviews (about 10), that even after 150 thousand, it works without replacing the shutter. It was this moment that I wanted to clarify how to understand whether the device is completely ushatan, or if you take good care of it, it will last as much)
Tell me please . This lens is suitable for the night sky or stars. Will the milky way be visible? If there are shooting results I will be very happy. Just don't be silent
The starry sky is much more convenient to shoot at a wide angle. For these tasks, Samyang 14mm 2,8 is good.
Or Tokina 11-16, if you are on a crop.
Tokina works well and in full frame at 16mm
Hello! There is such a kit Nikon D7000 + nikorr 85 mm 1.8G Af-s. I would like to focus a little less, in the studio it is not very convenient to shoot. Will there be disappointment with the picture at 50mm? Or choose something else?
As an option, sell D7000, add and buy D610 used.
If I wanted advice on the camera, I would ask for it :)
And specifically on the topic of my question, you did not say anything.
If you shoot in the studio on a closed aperture, the difference will be only in a slightly more pronounced distortion. Sharpness and color reproduction are comparable.
In the studio, if you shoot, be on a closed aperture you won’t feel the difference.
located in the middle of a pyramidal front frame - probably conical.
switched to it from 35mm. 1,8 ... Of course, you will not see the sharpness of the ringing on the open holes of soap. well, just too soft. ruled out the shake ... looked no, not that. there is no such clarity that was at 35mm. conclusion - on the reference values you can work starting somewhere with 2,8 more or less sharp image. 100 times checked FF and BF is not .. such an image is 1,8. so not perfect but you can work.
Maybe the instance is unsuccessful? I have this lens sharp with open.
Sure, some kind of marriage. I do not complain about sharpness with an open one.
The sharpness requirements are different for everyone)) apparently. Look out below the lilacs laid out. There is no harshness in the soap, but the person is pleased.
ISO 100 f/1,8 1/160 (d7000)
Is there harshness here?