View NIkon 50mm F1.2
Yes there is no mistake lens Nikon 50mm 1: 1.2 Nikkor (AI-s) has a maximum aperture value of f / 1.2, and this one of Nikon's three fastest lenses for SLR cameras: Nikon Nikkor 55mm 1: 1.2, Nikon Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.2 (from review) and Nikon Noct-Nikkor 58mm 1: 1.2. Each of these lenses has several modifications (F, K, AI or AI-S), but optically the modifications are almost identical. Nikon Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.2 has only two versions - AI and AI-S, the review presents the latest version AI-S type
Sample photo on Nikon 50mm F1.2
TTX Nikon Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.2 AI-s
Optical design: 7 elements in 6 groups
Focal length: 50mm
Aperture limits 1.2-16
Minimum Focus Distance: 50cm
Number of aperture blades: 9 pieces
The weight: 365g
Sample photo on Nikon 50mm F1.2 AI-S
Waiting for an updated version.
It's funny, but Nikon optics enthusiasts are looking forward to upgrading the super fast aperture fifty to the autofocus version, even giving the name of the new Nikon Nikkor AF-S 50mm 1: 1.2. My opinion is that fifty dollars by type Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4G и Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4D it’s enough for high-quality and convenient work, well, and professional photographers, if they need it, can easily use manual fifty dollars with aperture F / 1.2.
Sample photo on Nikon 50 mm F1.2 AI-S
First impression
Lens small, heavy and beautiful. Lenses give very beautiful highlights, the lens is very well assembled. As if holding a piece of solid metal, this inspires some confidence in the lens. It attracts a huge rear lens if they will make the autofocus version, I don’t even know where the developers will stick the microprocessor contacts, perhaps because of this they do not make the new version (although Canon has long had an autofocus analog -Canon EF 50mm f / 1.2L USM).
Photo at Nikon 50 mm F1.2 AI-S
Glass and metal
The lens is made of glass and metal, therefore it is very heavy, but at the same time very reliable. The focus ring is rubberized. Larger lens and camera weights can achieve less excerpts when shooting handheld. As practice shows, old lenses are very, very tenacious.
Photo with blurry background on Nikon 50 mm F1.2 AI-S
Works on both FX and DX
Lens Suitable for full-frame FX cameras, and for cropped DX cameras. If you use it on a Nikon DX camera, and then switch to full frame, the lens will still work fine.
Portrait on Nikon 50mm F1.2 AI-S
DX viewing angle
When used on a cropped DX matrix, the camera will give a viewing angle narrower than on a full frame. The viewing angle on DX cameras with this lens will be equal to the viewing angle for 75mm lens at full frame. More details in the article about Crop Factor. Due to the decrease in viewing angle and large aperture - The lens is very suitable for photographing portraits on DX cameras.
Landscape on Nikon 50mm F1.2 AI-S
Huge aperture
Probably the most interesting characteristic of the lens is its aperture. The maximum aperture is F / 1.2, which is more than any other Nikon lens. So far, Nikon hasn’t come up with anything better, and if he does, F / 1.2 will always be legendary aperture. How this diaphragm helps in the work is described below.
Portrait on Nikon 50mm F1.2 AI-S
Manual focus on Nikon Nikkor 50mm f / 1.2 AI-s only
You should always remember that the Nikon Nikkor 50mm f / 1.2 AI-s does not have auto focus and even the most sophisticated D4s and similar cameras will have to be focused manually. A green dot in the lower left corner of the viewfinder will indicate correct focusing. The focus ring is very convenient, but has a small stroke - it rotates only 90 degrees, which is quite small. But it's still pretty easy to focus. You can read more details on how to focus and generally work with manual optics in the article. Soviet lenses (which are all manual).
Photo 50mm 1.2
About metering
It is very important that there is an understanding that with the Nikon Nikkor 50mm f / 1.2 AI-s A number of modern digital SLR cameras can only work in manual camera control mode. And that means the camera will not measure exposure. All settings excerpts, aperture and ISO will have to do it yourself. A complete list of cameras that support or do not support metering exposure with manual non-studded lenses you can find here or here.
Portrait on a fast Nikon 50mm 1.2
Iris control
I have to control the diaphragm using the aperture ring on the lens. Semi-automatic control - focusing always with the aperture fully open, and when the shutter is released, the aperture itself closes to the specified value. It is very comfortable. Senior cameras correctly perceive and fit into EXIF such aperture values: 1.2, 1.4, 2.0, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6, 8.0, 11.0, 16.0. On the lens itself, you can only find values for 1.2, 2.0, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6, 8.0, 11.0, 16.0. Well, manual diaphragm control is a very, very useful thing, especially when using a reverse macro adapter or using it on other systems. To shoot video is also a very convenient thing from the last century. For example, on modern G-type lenses, the aperture ring is completely absent.
Photo on Nikon 50mm 1.2
Focus method
When focusing front element does not rotate, this will allow you to easily use all kinds of filters. Since the lens is quite unusual, it is not used by amateurs, but professionals who like to shoot with various kinds of gradient or polarizing filters. When focusing in the tube, the entire lens block travels, thus lengthening the trunk of the lens. It’s bad that there is no internal focusing, such as in Nikon 85mm F1.8D. The front filter is only 52mm in diameter. Finding a filter is easy. The whale lens of the 18-55 class also has a diameter under the filter equal to 52 mm. The lens has a scale of focusing distances from 0.5 m to infinity.
Photo on Nikon 50mm 1.2
Depth of field indicator
Depth of field indicators available only for aperture 8, 11 and 16. Moreover, the depth of field even at 16 is very small. The very depth of field at F / 1.2 is just very shallow and you need to work hard to get into the sharpness.
Photo on Nikon 50mm 1.2
Sample photos on Nikon 50mm f / 1.2 AI-s Nikkor
All photos in this review without any processing in a good style Radozhiva. Upload from RAW → JPEG, downsize to 1600 * 1200 Q80%, imprint data.
Does 1.2 really help in dark conditions?
Yes, it helps, but not so much to give a lot of money for such a lens. Aperture F1.2 is “lighter” than F1.4 exactly 1.36 times. And if at 1.4 can be removed from shutter speed 1/60, then 1.2 can be removed from shutter speed in 1/80. Or, if 1.4 can be removed from the same shutter speed at ISO 1200, then at 1.2 you can shoot at ISO 800, whether you need such a performance increase is up to you. The difference in normal lighting between 1.4 and 1.2 is almost impossible to notice.
But the difference between 1.8 and 1.2 is already quite felt, it is 2.25 times. If you really want something like that from manual optics, but there is no money, feel free to buy Nikon 50mm F1.8D or Helios-81N, which are also fast-moving fixes and also provide gorgeous picture quality at a much lower cost.
Regarding the Nikon Nikkor 50mm f / 1.2 AI-s picture
Maybe the difference in shutter speed between 1.4 and 1.2 it is difficult to feel, then the difference in the picture is on the face. Nikon Nikkor 50mm f / 1.2 lens AI-s gives a very plastic picture with good color reproduction and good contrast. Maximum aperture fully operational. HA are present, but on F2.0 they are completely retracted and on the F2.0 aperture the lens shows simply fabulous sharpness. To achieve the same sharpness as the Nikon Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.2 AI-s on Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm 1: 1.4G you will need to close the aperture to 2.8. The best ratio is maximum aperture \ image quality is achieved at F2.0, but even at 1.2 very wonderful pictures are obtained. The lens has very, very little distortion - ideal for photographing portraits. In the backlight it can catch hares, it is not afraid of side light.
The Nikon Nikkor 50mm f / 1.2 AI-s bokeh is very, very good, although all markers taste and color are different. Bokeh is interesting due to the huge aperture 1.2. Also, a funny thing, in the out-of-focus area in front of the focusing object, the luminous points turn not into even circles, but into circles with the top and bottom cut off. Why so, I can not explain.
Photo on a fast Nikon 50mm 1.2
All Nikon 50-58 / 1.4 / 1.2 autofocus lenses
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.4 AF Nikkor (first version, MK I) - the lens was produced only in Japan from 1986 to 1991
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.4 AF Nikkor (second version, MK II, also known as the 'N', or the 'NEW' version) - the lens was only available in Japan from 1991 to 1995
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.4D AF Nikkor (third version, MKIIIbetter known as 'D'-version) - the lens is available from 1995 to this day. There are two subversions that are no different.
- Nikon 50mm 1: 1.4G AF-S Nikkor SWM (fourth version, MKIVbetter known as 'G' version) - the lens is only available in China from 2008 to this day.
- Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 58mm 1: 1.4G Nano Crystal Coat SWM Aspherical (version better known as'58/1.4') - the lens is only available in Japan from 2013 to this day.
- Nikon Nikkor Z 58mm 1: 0.95 S Noct - The lens is available from 2019 to this day. Premium Lens for Mirrorless Cameras Nikon Z... It does not have automatic focus, but has a record aperture. Complex optical design with 17 elements in 10 groups, with 4 ED elements and 3 aspherical elements.
- Nikon Nikkor Z 50 / 1.2 S - The lens has been produced from 2020 to the present day. Professional S-line lens for mirrorless cameras Nikon Z... Complex optical design with 17 elements in 15 groups, with 2 ED elements and 3 aspherical elements
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Conclusions
Super fast, sharp, with a great picture. Of the shortcomings of the small stroke of the focus ring and a lot of weight for a fifty dollars. I strongly recommend to all bokeh lovers to try it in practice.
The lens can be bought brand new, for example, here.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
really need advice !!!!!! advise whether it is worth changing kit 18-55 to Nikon AI-S 50mm f / 1.4 for the Nikon D3100 camera, is 50mm suitable for wedding photography?
But do you understand, dear Catherine, why do I need fifty dollars in principle?
Changing a kit for fifty dollars is like changing from Daewoo Lanos to a Porsche 911 ...
You must be able to use the Fifty-fifty. The manual 1.4 you designated is useful for you on the younger camera, because neither the metering nor the more autofocus will be there (by definition), and it has very little DOF.
If you want a fifty dollars, try to start with 50 / 1.8 AF-S (specifically for your camera), there you will understand if you need it or not.
Suitable for a wedding, but on the condition that you understand that on the crop it will be 75mm.
Wedding photography should not be done at all if the arsenal has only an entry-level camera. And I think the best option is tamron 17-50 / 2.8 + 50 / 1.8 or for the same money more used 17-55 / 2.8 from Nikon.
Good evening Arkady ... I would like your advice, what would you advise for an amateur UNIVERSAL lens for NIKON D5200 Body, within 400-500 $ ... thanks in advance
As a universal one, I would advise Tamron 17-55 F2.8. But there are as many as 2 "BUT":
1. Tamrons need to be very carefully tested upon purchase, as not very high-quality specimens come across.
2. Whether Tamron's permission is enough for the "bloated" 5200 matrix - I'm not sure. On D90 - enough ...
Hello! Your hint is very necessary! If it is possible ...
On Nikon D7000 this lens (50 1.2) how to fix it correctly? With other lenses, it's simple and elementary, but this one ... either I'm dull, or I really need skills, I'm afraid to damage the equipment (
A little practice and everything turned out)
The aperture of F1.2 is “lighter” for F1.4 exactly 1.36 times. And if you can shoot at 1.4 with a shutter speed of 1/60, then at 1.2 you can shoot with a shutter speed of 1/80. SUCH NORMAL !!! The person who wrote the article has no idea at all in the photo! Efficiency 1 / 1,2 before 1 / 1,4 will be 4 times !!! (physics must be understood!)
There is no mistake here. Calculate yourself: (1,4 * 1,4) / (1,2 * 1,2) = 1.36 :) the details of the logic can be found here - https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/02/diafragma/
Arkady, hello. Give some advice. I bought 2 months ago Nikon D3200. The first SLR camera, just beginning to learn. They offer a Nikon 50mm f / 1.4 AIS Nikkor lens at a good price. Will it fit my camera? I'm interested in a baby photo, how difficult it is for beginners to work in manual mode. What do you say from experience. Or is it better to buy with autofocus?
On your regular lens, turn off auto focus (the switch on the lens) and switch to M mode on the mode dial. On such settings, shoot the day and immediately understand whether you can manually cope with focus and exposure, or not. I recommend finding an auto focus lens, recommendations here https://radojuva.com.ua/2013/01/what-camera-nikon-shoud-i-buy/
Turn on the exposure metering, put it on a tripod, aim at the subject and illuminate with a constant light. Remember the shutter speed to 1,4, and now switch to 1,2. And nobody will need to count anything and argue. Theory is good, but the practice is more right. At 1,2, the shutter speed will be exactly two times less than 1,4. This is for someone who doesn’t work through the manual; they are forced to build theories. In practice, everything is clear. No fraction of interest. It seems to me that every step of the aperture ring is tied to the shutter speed. you will need to go over the entire scale. To record.
The theory is also very good.
The difference between F / 1.4 and F / 1.2 is only a third of the stage. It is very easy to consider, it is very easy to verify and it is a fact.
It is considered simply (1.4 * 1.4) / (1.2 * 1.2) = 1.3611111 (the ratio of the squares of the number F).
Usually, all the numbers on the aperture scale really differ by a step (i.e., 2 times), but there are exceptions, even with this lens, F / 2 and F / 1.2 differ more than by a step.
Your practice about 1.4 rests on a number of features of this lens (linear aperture), etc.
Sergey, first of all, in physics you had a deuce. Since you started talking about aperture (and not about performance), here is an excerpt from Wikipedia:
“The diaphragm scales are graduated in such a way that each adjacent division corresponds to a twofold change in the light flux passing through the lens. For this, the cross-sectional area of the hole must also change twice, therefore, its diameter is √2 times. Thus, the denominator of the fraction of neighboring values differs by a factor of √2: f / 0,7; f / 1; f / 1,4; f / 2; f / 2,8; f / 4; f / 5,6; f / 8; f / 11; f / 16; f / 22. " So an f / 1,4 aperture is four times “EFFECTIVE” than an f / 0,7 aperture, but not f / 1,2.
And secondly, even if the author made a blunder somewhere, you can tell him more correctly about this, rather than blaming him (unreasonably) for not having a clue in the photo.
Arkady, thanks for the interesting review!
The lens has an interesting picture, in the out-of-focus area, the background seems to get blurry, or something ...
Recently I became the owner of 50mm 1: 1.4G - I confirm that “ringing sharpness” is achieved only at F / 2.8, but overall I am very satisfied with the lens (most often I use it as a waist-chest portrait camera on a crop).
According to the text: the 4th paragraph “bud-that” is correctly written as “be it”.
Further, after “does not have automatic focus” and “More details on how to focus” - commas;
“Thing from the last century” - “from the past ...”;
“The lens Jupiter-38 has more depth of field on indicators at F4.0…” - probably should be “on indicators…”?
"Aperture F1.2 is" lighter "for F1.4 exactly 1.36 times." - should be “what”, instead of “for” - you have this often overshoots)) - “for” - this is in Ukrainian (with all due respect to the Ukrainian language, but the blog is still in Russian).
Respectfully to you and your work.
In this context, the preposition “For” is rather not “Ukrainian”, but “Odessa”. In Odessa, so many say. (Well, for example - “let's talk FOR Odessa”, etc.).
There is no data for appendicitis. Not only Odessa.
Well, here I got my 50 / 1.2 AIs. First impressions are positive. Put on the F100. Everything, now trample masterpieces))
The caption to the photo with the handle on the door reads: “Portrait on Nikon 50mm 1.2”. Is this really a portrait? :)
Fixed
I bought this lens in pair with Nikon Df. I will test - I will write)
Good time to all! There is a problem with sabzh (55 1.2 Ai, but it has the same construct with 50, it seems): you need to lubricate the helicoid, or at least dilute the thickened native grease. Can anyone tell me how to do this myself? thanks
Hello! I really like your reports! I am not good at photography. I want to buy a good portrait for Nikon d90. Is the Nikon 50mm f / 1.2 AI-s Nikkor suitable? Or is it better than the Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4G?
Thank you in advance:)
Nikon AI-S Nikkor 50th f / 1.4G is right for you
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Nikon-NIKKOR-50mm-1-4-Lens/dp/B0000BVDZC/ref=cm_cd_dp_pst_dp?_encoding=UTF8&cdERR=Cred&cdPage=1&noLL=1&source=dpaar#CustomerDiscussionsPost
this?
http://www.nikon.ru/ru_RU/product/nikkor-lenses/auto-focus-lenses/fx/single-focal-length/af-s-nikkor-50mm-f-1-4g like that. Find and buy is not difficult. Sold in almost all stores where there is a department of photographic equipment
Thank you very much !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will take :)
Hello! Please tell me, I have Nikon d7100, I want to buy a good portrait lens. looked after the 50mm f1.2 AI-S. what do you say? skills are few ... thanks in advance
For practical use, I recommend Nikon 85 1.8G more, and about the choice of portraits described here https://radojuva.com.ua/2013/07/nikon-portrait-lens-enigma/
Thank you for your prompt response!
Happy 2015 to you! but decided to take 1.2!
Let's compare ...
With Helios
Yesterday I tested my new animal MC Helios-81N and today I got to this article ... so it became curious ... in my opinion there is something to think about ...
I want to make an addition, because the other day I got my hands on another MC Helios-81N 50/2 lens ... and the above picture was taken by my other MC Helios-81N only with a focus of 53/2. So until I had 50/2, I thought that these three millimeters did not mean anything ... But! this is a theory, and practical comparisons have shown that 53/2 washes the background better and its thickness is more than that of 50/2 by about 5-6 millimeters. It turns out that these lenses are not exactly the same thing. And the blur at 50/2 is worse. Something like this.
A placebo is a great thing. Read the article about Helios 81n at least.
Hello!
Tell me, how will this lens work on the Nikon D600?
How hard is it to focus through the viewfinder?
Does it make sense to use a Nikon DK-17M 1.2x magnifying eyepiece?
It will work like any other manual lens. At 1.2, it is extremely difficult to work through the JVI. The eyepiece will help. But the amount of marriage will be huge. Only Live View really helps.
Does it make sense to also change the focusing screen to the screen with Doden's wedges?
If you shoot on aperture 2.0-5.6, then there will also be a lot of marriage?
Is there a big difference in real sphytosile compared to 1.4G?
In 1.4 it confuses that it is Chinese plastic and that the motor is slow.
by 2.0 = 5.6 there will be less marriage. The real aperture between 1.2 and 1.4 will not be noticeable. For work, I would definitely take the autofocus version, with it the number of successful frames will be many times more. If you specifically need 1.2, then I would switch to Kenon or Sony.
I would add to the article:
1. When buying a lens, I recommend choosing a sample with a number from 320000 and above: approximately from this number Nikon added two aperture blades and increased the rounding of the blades themselves - so the lenses with the indicated numbers have more interesting background blur.
2. The size of the mount is directly related to the placement of contacts and their compatibility.
within the Nikon F mount, it is impossible to place all the necessary contacts for 1.2 autofocus lenses. In detail, the Sigma engineer in an interview told how difficult it was to make even 35mm 1.4 for Nikon.
The fact is that the diameter of the “hole” Nikon is 10 mm smaller than that of Kenon (at one time Nikon did not dare to change the size for compatibility of new cameras with old lenses, but Kenon changed). And now Nikon is physically unable to shove a lens of this size with a motor into this “hole”. Nikon has lenses with such an aperture, but they are all manual.
Does it make sense to put a lens hood on this lens and which one do you recommend?
Hello Arkady!
I have one of the frivolous and probably already boring questions for you. There is an opportunity to shoot the Northern Lights. I shoot on Nikon 50 1.8G and on Nikon 20 1.8G, FX camera. But the thought crept in that something was needed brighter. Please advise that this lens from the review or Carl Zeiss Planar T * 1,4 / 50 ZF.2 is better.
Thank you very much in advance!
This Nikon will be preferable.
what's the point? sharpness on the open they still will not be intelligible.
Friends, thanks for the answers, I am grateful, but now I don’t have a keyboard with Cyrillic alphabet on hand and therefore I can not write much.
In the case ... I assume that the meaning is as follows .... Lenses with f / 1.8 I tighten to f / 2.2-2.8. But Nikon 50 f / 1.2 is probably already at f / 1.8 I hope it can give the result.
I saw such a lens with 7 aperture blades in the photo .. Is this some kind of lens modification different?
I am very sorry, but testing this lens on a cropped camera is not very fair. Personally, I have tested it several times on the D300 and D750. At FF, it gives out a really amazing quality, and the higher the resolution of the matrix, the better it shows itself. In terms of sharpness after aperture of 2,0, it surpasses all existing fifty dollars in the world. This is one of the real gems in the Nikon system, besides, it is not very expensive and made to last. I even compared it with the Leica 50 / 1.4. I must admit that the Leica won by 1,4 in terms of sharpness and smoothness, but after 2,0 Nikon confidently surrounded it, and this despite the fact that the Leica 50 / 1.4 costs 18 times more ... Personally, I think that according to the Voigtlander image 58 / 1.4 is better than this Nikon, but, I repeat, only on FF cameras with high resolution, on the crop all this is hardly felt. Not a topic, but I remember how I despised the Pentax 43 / 1.9, until I saw what it is capable of in K-1 !!! Probably it will be so with all high-quality fixes, they should be tested and verified only on FF cameras.
I completely agree. True, sometimes people are embarrassed by the view when filming, but when they see a picture people calm down. And some, having learned that he is 82 years old, faint. And the steep, sarcastic photographers, in order to reassure, please remove your sophisticated lens and measure with this rear optics. Here comes the minute of silence)))
A good lens - Nikkor 50 / 1.2 and your photos are proof of that!
But, even so, it's just a high-aperture "staff" and nothing more. For portrait genre, 50mm is a compromise (not for close-ups due to perspective distortion). In addition, Nikkor 50 / 1.2 is not a contrast lens, which in my opinion is rather a disadvantage.
Look on the Internet what portrait photographs are taken at 35 mm
Hello. It was interesting to read the review. I have been using this lens for a long time. From the topic of exposure metering, I want to say that it works great both on the nikon D7100 camera and sonyA7R. There is still confirmation of focus on the latter (white dots are lit where there is focus. That is, for example, it has become easier and more convenient for me to shoot this manual than others with autofocus. You just understand where you turn and see where the focus runs, you do not need to move the camera point by eye, then build a frame )) as it used to be at autofocus. Heavy yes, if it is a flaw, rather a tribute to high-quality glass and metal. And by the way about the aperture, you have a mistake. I measured 1,2 times the exposure exactly twice as much as 1,4. I checked it on an auto meter on a tripod, with a constant light source, and more than once. For example, it was clearly 1/60 by 1,4 and 1/30 by 1,2. I agree about the problems of getting into focus by 1,2, but for close objects, for distant ones this gap is not so critical, you can safely get in. On close ones, it is better to use the focus point approximation then the norms. If the truth the object does not run away))
No, just the mistake you have.
The D7100 will also work with focus confirmation - in ovi, at the point you selected
Ikhmo confirmation by phase sensors is more convenient than contrast in Sony, TC does not need to close the diaphragm in order to understand whether the object is in focus or not