How to take pictures with your hands. Photo tricks. Part 3

Today we’ll try to figure out the tricks, how to take pictures with hand to achieve the best picture. Hand-held photography is divided into two fundamentally different methods - photography with flash and photography without flash. It is very important to learn how to take pictures handheld without a flash.

How to take pictures with your hands. Photo Tricks from Radozhiva

How to take pictures with your hands. Photo Tricks from Radozhiva


Remove hand shake

The main problem with handheld photography is trembling of these hands. Hands tremble, even if you have iron, you can still get a blurry picture with long exposures. There are several ways to deal with hand shake:

  1. Start weightlifting and pump up to hold the camera tighter.
  2. Mount the camera on a tripod
  3. Mount the camera on another stable surface.
  4. Group and lean on a stable surface, while you can shoot in a series to increase the chances of a successful shot.
  5. Still turn on the flash
  6. Use an expensive fast lens or camera with a stabilizer.
  7. And the most interesting is simply reduce shutter speed

Since there is no time for athletics, money for a tripod and an external flash, just like a stable surface, you will have to experiment with shutter speed. To get a good sharp shot without grease - need to shoot at short exposures. Shorter excerpt - That will make it more likely that when shooting handheld there will be a sharp shot.


How to make the shutter speed shorter?

There are only two ways. The first - open maximum aperture. The larger the aperture, the shorter excerpt. The diaphragm is the number F on the camera. And to open the aperture means lower the number F. For example, shoot at F5.6, to reduce the shutter speed you need to open the aperture, for example to F3.5, while excerpt automatically decrease somewhere in 2-3 times. If you do not know how to open the aperture, find the aperture priority mode on the camera, usually it is called A or AV (aperture value) or just read the instructions. If you have reached the maximum and the aperture is still not enough, you should think about a fast lens.

The second way - increase ISO. The higher the ISO, the shorter excerpt it will be and the easier it will be to get a successful shot. Normally, the ISO changes in the camera menu. On compact digital cameras (on soap dishes), I do not recommend raising the ISO above 800. On advanced SLR cameras, you can set the ISO to taste. More details about the pitfalls of ISO in my article how to configure ISO.

How to shoot in super short shutter speeds with the effect of stopping time, you can read here.


What is the maximum shutter speed? Golden Rule:

There is a beautiful Golden Rule. Need to be removed from handwhose numerical value should be greater than the effective focal length of the lens. Exposure usually measured in fractions of a second. For example, excerpt 1 / 10s indicates that the camera takes a picture within one tenth of a second. Likewise, 1/1250 says the shutter speed is very short and the picture is taken in just one thousand two hundred and fiftieth of a second. With such a short shutter speed, no hand shake is a hindrance. So, if you have a focal length lens X mm, then you need to shoot at a shutter speed no longer 1 / X seconds. Example if you have a focal length lens 50 mm, then you need to shoot no longer 1 / 50 with, usually standard shutter speeds faster than 1/50 s are 1/60, 1/80, 1/100 of a second, etc. Thus, it follows that shooting handheld with wide-angle lenses with a short focal length is much easier than with body lenses with a long focal length.

Attention: when using cameras with a high pixel density, the golden rule requires a little correction. For example, when you shoot on a camera with a lot of pixels, Nikon D7100, D5200, Canon 600D and the like, you should use shorter shutter speeds than using the golden rule. This is due to the high sensitivity of cameras with a large number of megapixels to micro-lubrication due to movement, in more detail here.


How to apply all this in business?

To avoid blur during handheld shooting, you need to open the aperture as much as possible and reduce shutter speed. If the shutter speed does not fall under the golden rule, then you need to raise the ISO. Well, if nothing helps, then you need to use a flash.


Other ways to overcome hand shake:

Jitter can also be overcome using lenses with stabilizers, which give a gain in 2-4 shutter speeds. Such lenses are slightly more expensive than conventional ones, but they are worth it. You can look, for example, at Nikon 70-300mm f / 4.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor. More details about stabilizers in my article Image Stabilizers. Also, some cameras have built-in stabilization in the camera. When shooting with your hands, it is better to include these types of stabilizers. But some cameras have a stabilization software solution, it almost always spoils the picture with high ISOs. And some more cameras. eg Pentax K30, have a stabilization system built into the camera itself. If all else fails, you should already think about a tripod or monopod.


Everything is complicated and nothing is clear - there is a way out!

Just turn on the flash. With flash everything is much simpler. The camera will decide everything on its own and you will almost always get a sharp shot. To achieve the best result, you can lower the ISO and set the aperture value depending on the task.


Conclusions

The shorter the shutter speed, the easier it is to shoot. The higher the ISO, the shorter the shutter speed. The more open the aperture, the shorter the shutter speed. When shooting handheld it helps a lot Golden Ruledescribed above.

Do not forget to press the buttons social networks ↓ - it is important for me. Thank you for your attention. Arkady Shapoval.

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Comments: 192, on the topic: How to take pictures with your hands. Photo tricks. Part 3

  • SONY

    Huh, damn it ...
    I thought that there would be something interesting about how to properly grab the camera, what pose to take, etc.
    And here the whole article could be put in one paragraph if the water was removed ...

    When shooting handheld without a flash, it is desirable that the shutter speed is no longer than 1 / EGF, where EGF is an equivalent focal length equal to the real focal length of the lens multiplied by the crop factor. If the shutter speed is slower, there is a great risk of getting a blurry shot. To make the shutter speed faster, you need to open the aperture (decrease its number) or increase the sensitivity (ISO). To manually control the aperture number, turn on the camera's aperture priority mode, usually labeled A or AV. In addition, you can use lenses or cameras with image stabilization, which allows you to set shutter speeds 2-4 times slower than 1 / EGF.

    And by the way, if you switch from F / 5.6 to F / 3.5, then the shutter speed will be reduced only 2,5 times (for example, from 1/20 to 1/50), and not 4 (to 1/80). To shorten the shutter speed 4 times, you need to open the aperture to F / 2.8.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Drop all expectations. For the pros it will be pure water, for the person who took the phot for the first time - this will be good advice. Actually at 2.56, the number really missed. Fixed.

    • Vladimir

      I also found Kushkin

    • Alexander

      In my youth I was engaged in shooting ... When photographing now, especially with a telephoto camera, I get into the shooter's stand (the shooter's stand with an air rifle is especially good) to press the camera down to my forehead :) helps a lot! You can find an arrow stand in the net ... It is long to describe :)

  • Dmitriy

    Arkady, judging by your poll, 51% of readers shoot in RAW. why would I do this? :)

    • Arkady Shapoval

      I don’t know what you mean :)

      • Few, few newcomers here :) 27% of all according to your own poll.

        I like your articles, but I look forward to more "advanced" articles and tests (3 articles in a row you rested :))

        • Arkady Shapoval

          Dmitry, pay for my work, and I will write articles of any complexity at least every day.
          More or less "advanced" - just a personal impression, take this very seriously. In the meantime, this is my altruistic hobby, the articles will be in complexity, depending on my free time.

          • Vadim

            Very useful articles, written in simple language, do not pay attention to Arkady, "star" photographers.

          • Leonid

            Thank you for your work - your articles, in our world it is difficult to find a person who does and helps people unselfishly. You do it professionally, efficiently and on time. I sometimes bought books on photography, and then after reading the book I bought, I wanted to launch it into the author. From them I learned how many layers of silicon are in the processor of a digital camera, why the legs in a tripod are black, and why in 1962 photographers in Tambov wore checkered pants. Your articles and comments from the majority of people who are not indifferent help you to stop being sponsors of mediocre authors of books. Of course, there are excellent publications and your brainchild belongs to it.
            Yes now, Dmitry - yes RAW, and I shoot many in it in a shameless way, and 70% do not even rescue 27% of beginners, too, right there and also in RAW. And everyone is sitting or even lying and waiting for "advanced" articles from Arkady. Dmitry excuse me for my sarcasm, I didn’t mean to offend you, but if you don’t like something, you think there are mistakes, but also remember that a person has the right to make mistakes. You are able to do what the author of the articles does for free, and for everyone

          • anonym

            Yeah, enough with clever phrases and a bunch of terminology. And what then do poor beginners do?))

          • Oleg

            In general, I am sending the address of your site to all my friends via e.mail, giving very useful tips. Thanks!

        • Alexander

          I'm new here and find these articles very helpful. And to the rest, rasping photographers - why these reproaches? A person, on his enthusiasm, explains the basics of photography on his fingers, so that everyone who is far from all this can easily touch the photo business. It would be better to help with advice on how to do better.

  • Victor

    people and about scanning film where to read my epson 3590 photo it’s not always smoothly what kind of resolution to set

    • VALENTINE

      The best flatbed photo scanners are the HP SJ family (Hewlett-Packard). They are distinguished by the richness of driver settings, which, however, is associated with instability and sometimes with unpredictability of the result. It is advisable to install the universal multi-pass Vuescan Pro driver with any scanner. I have an HP SJ 3010 along with a Vuescan Pro at 4800 dpi, which provides a scan of more than 24 MP from a full frame of 24x36 mm of impeccable quality. It is beyond the power of any Canon full-frame "Mark".

  • You can reduce hand shake by resting your elbows in the body. You can get pictures without grease for 1 / 30s even with JUPITER-37 (135mm).

    • Arkady Shapoval

      This is 4 point in the article)

  • Jury

    and also about the golden rule, crop factor there just does not matter, this is one of the advantages of small matrices =)

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Yes, can we take a picture for 1 \ 5 of a second from a soap dish? after all, 5mm for a soap dish is quite a normal focal point)

  • Lily

    All articles are very interesting and useful! Thanks! And “professionals” who are not interested can not read !!!

  • Judicial

    You can also add shooting in series - there is a chance that at least one frame will turn out to be sharp

    • Arkady Shapoval

      With exposures of the order of 1 second, it will not help.

      • Leonid

        I tried, that's what happened
        IMG_4893

  • Alexander

    People, stop smarting and finding fault. A person shares his experience. Everyone can criticize, but create something like this unit! I personally find the site very useful. I drop in almost every day. The author thanks a lot for the hard work! Do not pay attention to the show-offs everywhere they are enough, Krylov described them well in his fables.

    • Anton

      +1

    • Andrei

      I agree + 1

    • anonym

      +1

    • yuriy75

      I join !!! Arkady like you in the world units. Thanks to your articles and tips, many concepts have become clearer. I found the rest in the literature, but you are like a guiding thread. Thanks again!!!

      • Arkady Shapoval

        And thank you) do not forget to like articles \ reviews :)

    • Boris

      +1

  • Vladimir

    I have not found anything new for myself, but for that I am convinced that my thoughts and ideas about many things are correct. And for dummies - I consider it a super school. Respect to the author.
    Py.Sy. Drink less and buy heavy cameras))))))

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Yes, there is no magic, everything is very simple.

  • Sergei

    The trouble is inexpensive DSLRs, light weight, and size. I weighted my Canon 600D with a battery grip with an extra battery. The camera has become heavier and louder. On the whale 18-135mm. and even 70-300mm. shooting became much more convenient. Even on the long end there is no movement.

  • Alexey

    All of the above is true, I propose to recall the first point of measures to eliminate jitter - DO THE PRESS !!! ))) Arkady to you respect for your work!

  • Igor

    Where to read the first two parts?

  • Sychev Vladimir

    I will add some substantive considerations. On modern multi-pixel cameras (for example, CANON 600D or NIKON D7000) I recommend setting the shutter speed even faster than the EGF. For example, for a 100 mm focal length of a lens with an EGF of somewhere around 150, it is desirable to have a shutter speed of about 200. The fact is that the physical size of the pixel is very small, namely, because of the shaking of the hands by more than the pixel size, and this is the nastiest “shake” ”. This was not the case in earlier cells. In this case, the stabilizer in the lens (or in the camera) comes in handy, even at focal lengths of 24-35 mm. Tested on our own experience. And yet, I spied on a simple device in the internet, very effective when shooting from a standing position. Screw the screw into the camera from below (where there is a thread for mounting on a tripod). You need to find a screw that is suitable in diameter, something more than 6 millimeters, non-standard. Next, we tie a strong non-stretchable cord to the screw, the length from your face to your feet, from the bottom to the cord we attach some large washer or a piece of thick plastic with a hole for the cord. We put our leg on the washer, the camera to the face, the cord is pulled. Thus, we exclude vertical camera shake. Try it, very effective. And one more thing: long exposures are good only when shooting stationary objects, nature, etc. When shooting people, you still have to set the shutter speed no longer than 1 / 125-1 / 160, otherwise blur is practically guaranteed. The general conclusion is this: it is desirable to have a camera with high working ISO and fast optics. It is also desirable to have a house in Florida and a Cadillac. Good luck to all.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Thanks for the advice.

    • Stanislas

      "When photographing people, you still have to set the shutter speed no longer than 1 / 125-1 / 160, otherwise blur is almost guaranteed."

      I completely agree with you. It all depends not only on hand shake, but also on the dynamics of the subject being shot. If a person sits and does not move, then 1/80 is enough, if he dances then 1/200 -1/500
      And if sports performances, then 1/500 is very small.

      (About flash freezing, that's another story.)

    • Anatoly

      I made just such a device, on the advice of one smart person, though I used a rubber band instead of a cord, it really helps.

      • anonym

        A monopod screwed to the camera does not interfere in the crowd and makes it possible to maneuver, even when shooting moving objects in low light conditions. It can be assembled without removing from the camera and used as a weighting agent. And also, no tripod will help if you shoot moving objects at night. Watch the result and do not let the camera make the day out of the night. Put negative corrections and underexpose. Pull drawback in the shop. This will help to avoid too high ISO, and hence noise.

  • Yaska

    Thank you, it was interesting to read the article. I like that everything is written simply and intelligibly, just to start in photo art. But what advanced photographers do here is not clear. Probably not so advanced. I took advantage of many tips, I’ll go to improve the shooting technique.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      They are advanced only behind the computer monitor, and when they are released into the field with a camera, they immediately turn on the machine :)

      • Irina

        Ahahah!

  • Romko

    Volodymyr Sichev kindly respected, demanding the crop factor. I shche - those yak collapse itself is the object of zyomki. And zagalom, the article is well written. Do not mind the critics - oh, do not get away with it. It's easy to enter your "ty" and "fu", more importantly - to create a blog, for which there are a lot of cinnamon information, tse in Pershe. And in another way, as soon as the cholovik came here and after reading, it means that not everything has fully understood the knowledge and “not all the roses”, why is it wrong?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Absolutely.

  • gene

    Arkady, please answer how to shoot with an external flash aimed at the ceiling at a focal -85mm if the shutter speed is set to 1 \ 60?

  • gene

    thanks for the efficient answer!

  • gene

    and another question, how correctly will the TTL mode work when the flash is directed to the ceiling?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Will work correctly.

  • Deimos

    "Start weightlifting and pump up to hold the camera tighter." well, here it is not very correct, the hands are shaking even more (or is it just me)
    PS I am engaged in powerlifting

    • Andrei

      After training right away for the camera? Of course, the hands will shake. This refers to general strengthening exercises for the arms and back. Professional sports and constant loads will not help get rid of the shake because the muscles are constantly dressed up.

    • Amatich

      I have a different problem. I work on the installation of plastic windows, the perforator is constantly in my hands. After work I go to take a picture, the shaking is incredible, finally I don’t drink alcohol ...

  • VALENTINE

    The golden rule of a sniper: never pull the trigger - press smoothly, without waiting for a “shot”.

  • Pilot

    Guys, what algorithm do you recommend for shooting soccer, 24-105 f / 4... Canon 50D Rate of fire mode, disable stabilization on slack? And servo mode is tracking?

  • Anastasia

    I read your articles and I can’t get enough, everything is simple and affordable. I am newbie. thanks.

  • Vital

    Pilot, it is difficult to shoot normal football shots with such a lens, you need at least f300 mm. Even if now you like your pictures ... And cropping the “extra” in Photoshop is to take another picture with different parameters. After all, sports pictures have their own specifics, it is important to capture the moment of struggle, for example, confrontation between 2-3-4 people, their muscle tension, emotions, etc.
    And as for the shooting with hands and other articles of the author, I can only say a huge THANKS. Not everyone is given the opportunity to share their knowledge.

  • Source

    Just thanks for all the articles ... just don't leave us!

  • Alexey

    Wonderful article, a lot of useful tips! Thanks!

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