This article will be useful to Nikon Digital SLR owners. Many people already know how to adjust shutter speed, ISO, aperture, but Nikon cameras have very useful functions and settings. Today we will focus on a few basic ones.
Thoughts on setting up Nikon cameras
Setting Picture Control Modes
Almost all Nikon DSLR cameras have image management modes. This setting is in Shooting Mode Menu -> Picture Control Mode. Depending on the model, you can select one of the shooting modes in the submenu. Most often it
- SD – standard
- NL - Neutral
- VI - saturated
- MC - monochrome
- PT - portrait
- LS - landscape or native shooting mode.
This is very convenient - with the desired type of shooting you just need to set the appropriate mode and get the image settings for a given plot.
These modes affect sharpness, contrast, brightness, saturation and hue the resulting image. For example, the portrait mode has low sharpness, contrast and brightness in order to correctly convey skin tones. A saturated mode, on the contrary, has saturated colors, great sharpness and contrast.
Here is an example of the same photo in different image management modes. There is an improvement in color saturation:
Standard and Rich snapshot management in action
All sample photos in this article are made on Nikon D90 using a tripod and remote control Nikon ML-L3. Focusing with Live View on Nikon 50mm F1.8D in manual mode. The items are mounted on a studio stand and flash foot. If you look closer, 1 to 1, you can see the improvement in sharpness in VI mode compared to SD
Difference in Picture Control Modes SD and VI
Important notice! If you shoot in RAW format, then the file is actually recorded in RAW format raw information from the camera’s matrix, but in EXIF cameras record data about the shooting control mode. At the same time, a picture with the established image management mode will be visible on the camera’s display. But when loading into a RAW converter like ADOBE LIGHTROOM, ADOBE Camera RAW these converters will not accept the metadata from the file and you will see naked original RAW picture without overlaying Picture Control. So, shooting in RAW and processing the picture on a computer, you don't have to bother with the selected picture control mode.
But, if you are shooting in JPEG, then the selected mode will greatly affect the photo. I strongly recommend that you always remember about the mode that is set and change it depending on the situation. By the way, when shooting in MC mode - monochrome, BW letters will flash in red in the viewfinder, warning that you are shooting in black and white. And if you shoot in RAW, then on the computer you will be able to see the original color photo, and if you shoot in JPEG, it will already be impossible to restore the color in the photo.
High ISO Noise Reduction
In order to minimize noise at high ISOs, you can, and sometimes need to enable the noise reduction function. Function is in Shooting Mode Menu -> High ISO Noise Reduction. This feature helps to reduce digital noise and make your photo more attractive. The function also has the name NR (noise reduction) and several intensity values.
Two photos with and without noise reduction
If you increase the scale, then the difference in image quality will be really visible. See for yourself:
Noise Reduction Function
Important factor! Shooting in RAW mode does not actually reduce the noise in the image, and the camera, when reviewing the image, shows the RAW image with noise suppressed. If such a RAW image is viewed on a computer with and without noise reduction mode, they will be identical. At first for the article I shot in RAW, but when viewed on a computer, all the photos with or without noise reduction looked the same.
Shooting in JPEG you really get a picture with suppressed noise. But always remember that shumodav is not a panacea, it reduces noise but with the same success reduces the detail of the picture (including its sharpness). For non-commercial purposes and printing, 10 * 15cm can be safely shot in JPEG at super high ISO with noise reduction turned on at maximum power level.
Using Active D-Lighting
This feature expands the Dynamic Range and preserves shadow detail. In short - the function programmatically pulls information from the shadows.
Active D-Lighting in action
As you can see for yourselves, dark details became brighter in the pictures and the picture turned out brighter at the same values excerpts and apertures.
Active D-Lighting Function
Attention! Although the function takes a picture with a large DD, at the same time there is one trick. Both pictures were taken in manual control of the camera at F2.8 1 \ 4c, but in automatic mode and with Active D-Lighting turned on, the camera tries to underexpose the frame by reducing excerpts or aperture. Also, information from the shadows is extracted by the program method and as a result there is an extra noise in the shadows.
More useful features
Long exposure noise reduction function should reduce noise when shooting at long exposures - but I tested and did not notice any significant change in noise. The test was carried out on shutter speed 30 seconds in RAW and JPEG - the result is almost the same at ISO100 and ISO 400. Therefore, I did not take any sample photos. Caution - Long exposure noise reduction also reduces frame buffer. For example, for Nikon D200 from 21 frames in the buffer, when this function is enabled, it sags up to 11 frames. Similarly, on other cameras. And also, when shooting at slow shutter speeds with this feature turned on, you reduce the speed of the camera. If a excerpt was 10 seconds, then the camera will “think” and process the image for 10 seconds after the picture is taken, and the display will show “work nr”. Personally, sometimes it is very, very inconvenient for me to wait 30 seconds before I can take the next picture, because this function is almost always turned off for me.
Chromatic Aberration Control Function - reduces HA. Distortion Control Function - reduces distortion. Since I have on mine Nikon D40, D80, D90, D200 I don’t have these functions, I can’t describe their work with examples, but in any case they are also very useful when shooting in JPEG.
Conclusions:
All image enhancement functions are mainly software implemented. When shooting in JPEG, they are an indispensable means of improving images, but all of them can equally well be implemented by editing a RAW file. In order for Nikon's RAW file (NEF) to be used with the image control function applied there, you need to use the native Capture NX utility, you will have to do everything yourself in other RAW converters.
Thank you for attention. Arkady Shapoval.
Thank you very much, all articles are very intelligibly written. It’s very easy to understand even a teapot in this.
Good day, Arkady! I disagree with the described result of long exposure noise reduction. This also applies to cameras from other companies. This function is very useful and without looking at the long waiting time when shooting, it saves a lot of time in post-processing. Acts not on the noises we are used to, but on hot and broken pixels, the number of which increases with increasing shutter speed and raising the Sensitivity. All this delay time, after the shutter is closed, the camera analyzes, finds them, and superimposes information from neighboring pixels on them. The newer the camera, the smaller the pixels and less of them are formed, so they may not be noticed, but they are.
Good day. Help the newcomer, I haven’t figured out everything yet of course) I mainly do everything in auto mode, try mode A, why is the photo bluish?
There is such a thing as "white balance", here you have a shift of the color gamut in cold tones.
Do you mean bluish spots on the breast? This is probably a reflection of the blue bedspread.
As for me, all the color went blue. If you add a little warm tones, it will turn out a little better.
Here is an article for beginners
https://prophotos.ru/lessons/16220-tsveta-na-foto-balans-belogo
Hello, please tell me when shooting in RAW format and further developing in ACR, does Active D-Lighting on the camera play any role or not?
Yes, it does. Not all converters understand it. If the converter does not understand, then the image will be underexposed.
Namely, does the Adobe Camera Raw converter understand it? And when using this converter, is it better to shoot the Nikon d3200 with Active D-Lighting turned on, or can it be turned off, for example, when shooting in cloudy weather?
RAW is always better without it. With it, only in JPEG or when developing native software. Native Nikon View-nx, Capture-nx-d understand it well.
If the converter does not understand, then the image will be underexposed. The image will be underexposed if Active D-Lighting is turned on, I understand correctly?
Not always, the D3200 adl only works in auto mode, that is, you can not control the level of its work. If it works to zero, then the exposure will be normal. If it comes to his mind to use the ENHANCED value, then the exposure will not be normal. On older cameras, the ADL level is set manually. But in the general case, ADL works at medium settings, and this is -0,3-0.7 steps.
Thank you very much, figured out with your help.
Another question, if you can, again, when shooting in RAW and further developing, does it make sense in the Picture Control mode of the camera to make its own settings, for example, add sharpness, saturation, or do the Picture Control tinctures do not matter for RAW files?
For third-party developers, they don't.
Thank you Arkady, thanks to your site, I got some ideas on how to shoot with a DSLR, learned to use a histogram and it turned out that on my d3200 it makes sense to adjust the exposure right away to -1 somewhere and the photos look better than set strictly according to the readings of the camera’s exposure meter. I’m still trying to figure out how to choose the right metering, for landscapes I choose matrix metering, average weighted for flowers, and for portraits I still have not figured out which is better.
Good afternoon. Explain what the tonality, shades affects with your own settings in nikon d200.
That is, what does this change in the image of the photo?
i have a nikon d80 but the processing menu is not available in any mode - how to activate it ??
Maybe there is something in the instructions for the camera)
Try the mode with a flash card inserted into the camera (of course, if there are pictures on it) - this is a hidden, engineering mode, but it usually helps :)
I don't know why, but all other photographs recommend shooting in RAW(NEF) mode. I mostly shoot in JPEG mode. JPEG format. The result is the same. So maybe you shouldn't bother with RAW(NEF)?
Costs. More like it's worth it. But perhaps not for you. Until you try, you won't understand.
The whole idea is that when processing RAW photographs, it is easier for you to correct the correction, and all these modes, as described by the author, can be done using the Add and Add button. When printing in jpeg there is no possibility. A single photo taken in RAW takes up more space and requires conversion before publishing (not all formats are supplied out of the box)
Hello, Dear Sirs.
I have two questions regarding Nikon camera settings.
I asked them on some forums and other sites, but I didn't get a clear and logical answer anywhere. They either advise me to read the instructions or are just being smart.
Here is a camera, for example Nikon D850 or Nikon Z9 (it doesn't matter), with its idiotic Banks, etc. So I set up two banks: one for Sports, the second for Landscape. (conditionally).
But it doesn’t happen that everything you set up is what you need at the moment.
We change something using knobs/buttons on the camera itself during filming.
As a result, what you configured in the Banks was “reconfigured”/”mixed” during the work (shooting).
Hence the question, what should I do when I get home, to change everything in these settings (in the Banks) back to the original?
Well, you still won’t remember the original.
Or should I leave everything as I set it up with the buttons/rotators on the camera?
But today I was shooting Sports, and tomorrow I’ll be shooting Landscape.
So here is the main question: Is there any logical scheme of actions in such settings?
And do I understand correctly that the main and fundamental players when shooting (any), no matter how you set things up, are: buttons/rotators on the camera???
How do they influence the result the most?
Question two.
On one foreign website, a photographer told how he set up (or rather assigned to one button, for example Fn9) certain camera settings on a Nikon Z1 camera.
Let me explain, for example, you are shooting statics, there is a grove/mountains, etc. Everything is clear.
Then, suddenly, a stunningly beautiful sports car drives by. He presses Fn1, reframes and shoots ……action. Roughly speaking. And a whole set of parameters is assigned to this Fn1 button. (AF-S to AF-C, etc., etc.)
The question is, how is this done?
Please, if you have time, explain…… to an enthusiastic idiot.
Best regards, Marina
All this sometimes simply simplifies the solution of photo tasks. You need to get out of the fact that the camera solves two problems - focusing and exposure. These are the parameters that you need to constantly juggle. It is not the banks and sets that are important, but the understanding of what is happening and the ability to quickly reconfigure the exposure and focus. All these "action", "sports" and so on are just sets of settings for exposure (metering modes, priority PASM modes, etc.) and focusing (zones, priorities, etc.).
Thanks for the reply.
I would like to clarify, please.
I understand that "action" and "landscape" are a set of settings. And often they differ only in the choice of method and type of focusing, shooting speed and that's it.
Banks are not the main issue for me.
I'm telling you, Bank settings aren't a sacred cow, are they? We change something when shooting: the focusing method, the exposure metering method, etc.
So, do I understand correctly: What is the main thing, the control knobs/buttons on the camera itself? We use them to control/reconfigure depending on the situation/shooting?
And the second question, about one foreign site, where a photographer told how he set up a “preset for shooting” on a Nikon Z9 (several parameters: focusing method, exposure metering, etc. (5-6 parameters), put it on the Fn button and if necessary, he presses Fn and takes a photo.
All these settings on the Fn button are different from those on which he is currently shooting.
How is it done: putting several (CERTAIN) shooting parameters on one button?
Best regards, Marina
1. Yes
2. It is done as it is convenient. It is unlikely that anyone will give you a single answer.
Thank you.
It’s a pity that you still haven’t explained how to set up a specific “preset” (set of settings) for shooting and assign it to one button.