For the opportunity to write lens overview Mir-10A 3,5 / 28 many thanks to Kostenko Ilya, who sent I have a lens from another area.
Review Mir-10A
Focal length: 28mm
Aperture limits: F3.5-F22
Group / Lens: 7/8
Front Filter Diameter: 67mm
Number of aperture blades: 6
Minimum Focus Distance: 0.2m
The weight: 520g
First impression: the lens has a large diameter front lens, single-coated lenses, a plain yellow glare is visible. The lens is weighty, well shot down, inspires confidence. Originally Mir-10A It was delivered in a case with three filters.
Side view of the Mir-10A lens
Key features of the Mir-10A lens
- The lens is from a film camera, which means that it is suitable for both full-frame and cropped modern digital SLR cameras.
- The lens is manual, which means that you only have to focus manually.
- The lens has a diaphragm preset ring, it is very easy and convenient to use.
- There are all the necessary indicators for depth of field, distance to the focus object, and aperture value. This is an integral part of old lenses.
- The front cover is screwedbut does not snap. The front cover of the Mir-10A has an uncharacteristic property to screw in like a light filter. This pretty much affects the operational work with the lens. After all, when you saw the frame, you have to twist the front cover for a long time before taking a picture.
View of the front lens of the Mir-10A lens
- On Nikon DX cameras EGF lens becomes 42mm, and the entire 'wide angle' of the lens disappears.
- The lens is very, very small short focus distance. Only 20 cm. I was able to shoot small objects without any problems. In this case, the lens bokeh is very peculiar.
- The focus ring rotates almost all 360 degrees. In this case, the front lens does not rotate, and the trunk of the lens is extended by 2 cm. When focusing, the entire lens block moves.
- The lens is not fast. The maximum aperture value is F / 3.5. For a wide-angle lens, this is not critical.
- When the diaphragm is closed, its 6 blades form not a standard “nut”, but an interesting “asterisk".
Enlightenment of the front lens of the Mir-10A lens and the type of aperture opening
How to use with modern cameras?
'A' lenses with an interchangeable shank, such as the one in this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both DSLR and mirrorless), just select correct adapter. The replacement 'A' shank usually has an external M42 thread and an 'H' mount (similar to Nikon F). For use on modern cameras, the easiest way is to add the required adapter from M42 to the desired system or from Nikon F to the desired system to this shank.
View of the Mir-10A lens on a modern SLR camera
Sample Photos
All photos taken on Nikon D700, JPEG. Photos without processing. The lens produces a very sharp image. Distortion is barely noticeable. The lens is a little yellow, like most old Soviet single-coated lenses. In the backlight can catch hares. In general, the image quality is not bad. I liked working with this lens, it has its own unique charm.
Attention: when using the lens on my Nikon D700 with the help of a replaceable shank KP-A / N and when focusing at infinity, the mirror catches the rear lens of the lens.
Catalog modern brand lenses 'Zenitar' и 'Helios' can look at this link.
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Hack and predictor Aviator:
Mir-10A is an interesting wide-angle prime lens. I do not recommend using it on cropped cameras. The lens has a very small minimum focusing distance and produces a very sharp picture.
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When mounted on the D600 at infinity, sharpness is lost and the mirror clings. When shooting up to 4m everything is very sharp. I set the angle of view on the D700 a bit more than a fifty dollars, the sharpness at infinity is excellent. You can shoot objects from 10 cm. It gives a pretty good, not really artistic , the picture is 3,5.
I’m very interested in how he can cling to a mirror on the d600 :) He is with KP-A / N.
On modern cameras, the mirror is more advanced
It can easily cling to a mirror on D600, KP A / H is just a shank, and the lens itself with a frame deepens too much. At least on 5d he also clings, as my friend told me.
And his personal experience - his brother MIR-1A (with a KP A / H tail) at infinity on a full-size Nikon DF just caught a mirror in the same way. I had to grind off the back skirt going in a semicircle around the rear lens.
and yet I did not see a single reason why it is impossible to successfully use the subject on crop.
personal opinion, nothing more.
moreover, in crope, a weaker resolution region simply does not get on the matrix, and EGF increases, which makes the world-10a very busy city staffer with the ability to highlight objects in the foreground or even make a macro with a cup of coffee in your favorite cafe.
It's like that. When testing many modern fixes up to 50t.r comparing them with the world-10a and helios -81n, not one modern one outperformed our old Soviet ones in the quality of the picture, but there is nothing to talk about the dynamic range at all.
Having shoveled a lot of reviews on wide-angle, I came to the conclusion that:
1) To take a good lens, you need to have at least $ 200 in your pocket,
2) If you take the budget options, and not only Soviet lenses, then there is no point in discussing the quality of shooting with these lenses - they are all very mediocre, with a bunch of minuses - and therefore you can take any and just get more sophisticated when shooting on them.
3) Since Soviet lenses are very scattered in build quality, their acquisition is still that lottery. If you do not test them before the purchase, and this is rarely possible. And, usually, not the best copies are sold, but the fact that it did not show itself in any way and was poorly assembled.
4) What did you want to get a cool lens for a penny? This does not happen.
Therefore, I repeat, everything is budgetary - so indulge in, experiment ... Despite the fact that you are still friends with Photoshop!
I have one. Great lens on the nikon d7000. I shoot landscapes and close-ups. It has a larger DD compared to the 17-50 / 2,8 tamron I also have. It has excellent sharpness both in the center and in the corners.
I really like to shoot at him, so that they would not say a beautiful lens. Try not to regret it.
DD has not a lens, but a camera, do not mislead people. A lens is an optical system that refracts light onto a sensor. Mir-10A is one of the worst Soviet copies of foreign analogues (I also have almost the entire fleet of Zenit optics).
In your example, there is no sharpness to compare the picture even with Tamron, to be honest) Only “a riot of beautiful colors”, so you can take pictures with a digital camera and a mirrorless camera with whale glass.
When testing many modern fixes up to 50t.r comparing them with the world-10a and helios -81n, not one modern one outperformed our old Soviet ones in the quality of the picture, but there is nothing to talk about the dynamic range at all.
Interesting opinion. On the contrary, I consider Helios 81n to be a very successful Soviet glass, but even 50 1.8g from Nikon, which is noticeably cheaper than 50 thousand, outperforms Helios in all respects, from HA and distortion to open sharpness. Maybe the drawing of helios is different, but the drawing is a purely individual matter. I generally like Figure 50 1.2L, but for its price it is not interesting to me at all, I sold it in order to buy something more interesting and cheaper. And I really like the drawing of helios 44m for its price, even though it has ha, soap and flares. But drawing is a purely personal matter, although it can be discussed. But I can't say that, in general, the picture of some Soviet lens is better than that of modern fixes. In terms of most parameters, they are far behind the current lenses, which is logical - optics and scientific and technological progress do not stand still.
And yet, I would like to clarify about the dynamic range. You, apparently, had something else in mind, because this is a parameter of the camera (matrix or film), but not the lens. Perhaps you compared modern lenses on a digital, and helios on a film, then yes, there DD is very wide, but it's not a lens.
I compared on one device Nikon d7000. For interest and for yourself. When more shades of color appear in the shadows and highlights on the same camera and visually greater detail. L-series did not compare with the Soviet for 70t. I do not consider it necessary to spend for the test
I can seriously say that Mir-10A is significantly ahead in quality and DD of such an object as in this case the tamron 17-50 / 2.8 with the latest version stub, and I was supported by forum users on the monster because I submitted test shots.
Regarding tamron, in principle and logically - a very mediocre lens came out, even worse than an older shameless brother - I was surprised. But you wrote “When testing many modern fixes”, so I only drew an analogy with fixes. And the fact that a quite good, albeit old Soviet fix, is better than an average zoom is quite logical and I, of course, will not argue here.
When I put the Soviet lens on the carcass I do not want to change it. You yourself used the Soviet?
I have 30 pieces (helios, tair, world, industrial, jupiter, zm of various modifications) and several ceisses and pentacons, I used others.
Looking for a world-20n do not tell me where you can? we have no in Ivanovo.
Jupiter -37a, also a great portrait, but how the background blurs !!!!
As I rummaged around at home in the closet, I came across my old Zenith with a 44m-4 Helius. Well, I tried, I finished 44ku to infinity, though he now works with macro rings for me, which is even better than it is for macro?
With him, Serge-Rad on a photomonster puts such super-macro masterpieces !!! and you won’t think that it’s 44ka. Visit the monsters there are a lot of interesting things and the guys are normal. Of course there are nerds who try to find chromaticity in every photo.
I’m on a monster, the site is good, there are many useful articles and discussions. Not as much as in the photo, but less than too much.
Regarding the macro, I agree, for this money a very, very good option. If whatever the finances, of course, specialized modern macro lenses are better in terms of resolution, contrast, sharpness. But from the same helios with straight arms you can get great shots, including macro shots.
Serge works with macro fur and rails everything, well, and hands with his head, respectively. Have you seen his pictures?
Do you think the aperture 50 is working on the Nikon 1.8 / 1.8? The work starts with 2.8 And the initial 81 of Helios 2.0H is already excellent sharpness, I purchased it less than a year ago. I sold nikon 50 / 1.4 since it is impossible to remove soap from 1.4 to 1.8. Heaven and earth - nikon and helios, personally tested.
Yes, unlike the 50 1.4g and d versions, the 50 1.8g has an open one, quite working. Maybe you came across an unsuccessful copy - I tried 3 pieces in total, there were no problems. But 50 1.8d to 1.8 is very soapy, maybe you mean it?
I had a 50 / 1.4D screwdriver with the carcass.
Then your discontent is clear. 50 1.4d in sharpness is far from a record holder. Although 50 1.4g is not a fountain in the open, but a little better. In general, now in terms of sharpness from relatively affordable half-paths, perhaps the sigma 50 1.4 art is really good, from autofocus lenses, but the price is serious.
it doesn’t hurt and often 1.4 is what you need, deuce more often.
Helios-81n I liked more than 44ki in terms of convenience.
Hello! Let me ask you a question, when you install Mir-10A on Nikon, when turning the lens counterclockwise to the end, is there a click that is usually present when installing other autofocus lenses? For some reason, this click is missing, the lens is like -will not be blocked in the final position. Maybe you have any thoughts on this? In advance, grateful for the answer.
Hello. I answer your question. I have a Mir-10a with a T2-Ni adapter when installed on a nikon d7000, it is fixed with a click like any other lens. The mirror does not touch when shooting. It may be in your adapter - the retainer snaps into the recess of the adapter. Do you have KP-AN?
Yes, I have the Arsenal KP-AN.
And without autofocus, it's a completely different song. It rather attracts me in unhurried shooting. Those who have not used manual lenses have not experienced all the pleasures of shooting.
Hello everyone! Can anyone in the know? When I wind Mir-10A, on the Nikon D90 (with the nickname KP-A / N), there is no click at the end of the installation. Is this normal? When the Helios-81M is installed, a characteristic click sound is present. By the way, on the Nikon D70, World 10A catches a mirror.
The lens clings to the mirror on DSLRs, alas. Through the adapter, you can “play” with it on mirrorless fullframes ala sony a7, although the picture is not impressive in detail up to 8,0, the worst thing in my park, the “glass” - did not take off either on a full frame, or on mirrorless and mirrorless frames (even Mir-20 with its “hares” gives a much better picture in terms of detail).
on the Nikon D90 with the KP-A / H shank installed, the mirror is fine, everything is Zer Gut! And on the D70, the mirror really stuck, even though it gave out a shot. But really, the Helios 81M, it seemed more interesting to me in terms of drawing and general convenience shooting.
here is a frame on it
or here
here
and here
yes-soapy, distortion ... but retro-charm, there is ... if you pick up a key to it, you can shoot, and quite well.
With his number of lenses, he relies on the MC, but the trouble is - when he was made, his era had not come yet.
Yes, indeed, MC would not hurt.
With the color rendering and contrast of the MIR-10A lens, everything is fine and without MS enlightenment - the photo was taken on Kodak Gold 100 iso film.
Excellent photo!
Thanks. We were just tired of the reasoning that MIR-10a is not a contrasting and sluggish color rendition even in frontal lighting, but this is not so, it is all bright and contrasting, this photo was taken in the 2000th year.
And in the back-side?
And here is almost a side light.
Almost) I would like to see with the sun in the front hemisphere. Here it is still in the back.
I don’t test lenses and I don’t shoot in open holes and in backlighting, I don’t demand more from cheap Soviet lenses with single-layer coating than they are capable of. Looking for super contrast in backlighting? Buy a modern Carl Zeiss. It's “inexpensive”.
How it bakes me from such phrases! “I don’t demand” ...
Those. have you never once had the need to click this World in the back of something? And there is not a single frame in the back cover for the entire time of use?
What does Zeiss have to do with it, why did you stick it? We are discussing Mir-10A. There is a specific question about its applicability in difficult lighting conditions. You say that everything is in order with him, but, of course, do not give arguments in the form of a photo in these most difficult lighting conditions. But something here about Zeiss write out of place.
I say and show that everything is fine when shooting in normal light, and not in backlight, despite the gossip in the forums, that the lens is not all right in all lighting conditions. I proved the opposite. Why photograph in backlight and with open holes - it is not clear what everyone is trying to achieve from cheap lenses with single-layer coating and still want to get super contrast without hares.
Then, you need to know exactly how the lens behaves in any conditions.
Rodion, and so it is known how he behaves in difficult conditions ... Another thing is that it is desirable for the photographer to avoid such conditions.
Unfortunately, it is not known. I have not seen a single adequate test.
Better not a test, but a comparison. With pentacon 29 / 2.8 or takumar 28 / 3.5 ... Because in comparison it is much clearer.
There is a photo in backlighting by the way - for a lens with single-layer coating, the contrast is normal - the shadows are black. There are no gray shadows from objects. If you need to test something, test it yourself.
Show this photo - this is my third time asking. And in response - some unnecessary letters.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1542090565864076.1073741853.100001894422240&type=1&l=d2c62f179f
Mir-10A at f22 the light from the flashlights in the frame forms such “stars” of the aperture. The frame is somewhat overexposed.
Hello! have a website http://helios44-2.ru, someone ordered from him, share your impressions.
Does it make sense to place an order on such websites? The prices are too high. I bought a bunch of different Soviet optics at Avito and at the Bag auction at very reasonable prices. For example, World 10A cost me 1500 rubles.
Hello!
1. Already somewhere from 1,5 years I have been an endless reader of your site! Thank you very much!! The site is amazing !! Everything is clear, understandable, everything is on the shelves laid out !!
.
2. I am an amateur, I am self-educated, but so far not everything is clear in the life of photography)
I already have World 10A (I admit honestly, about a year ago, I was attacked by an unbridled desire to buy a lens, not really understanding what and how, flipping through Avito, I got this one. Moreover, I still didn’t even have an adapter then .. I generally shot only on whale 18-55 .. As a result, I read this article, bought it).
.
Camera - crop canon, I WANT TO GO TO FF ...
And here's the catch.
With Nikon it is clear - on ff clings, but with Canon? Or is there no difference?
And you can’t do anything?
Thank you
.
PS: in the end, I never regretted that I bought it. He is my love, you can just say adoration to the toothache. It's crazy to love that it takes a picture with literally 15cm! Very pleasant in tactile terms, smooth movement of rings, nice picture, cool bokeh sometimes comes out)
And I really don’t want to part with him because of ff .. but I don’t want to refuse ff either ..
yes, I’m not a guru, but this strawberry was shot on World 10A and it seems to me that there is definitely SOMETHING in it (just don’t judge strictly, please, I'm really just studying)
https://500px.com/photo/216162725/strawberry-by-tatiana-zharkova
Grudinin also invested his 5 cents!
XM, Arkady, why give links to Chinese adapters with aliexpress? After all, this is an A-lens, that is, for mounting on a Nikon F mount, an adapter KP-A / N is needed, and not a Chinese curve cheapness that does not give infinity, but ruins the quality with a lens.
Fixed
Hello! Could you send me the 16th photograph, which depicts an autumn pond, by mail. Madly beautiful I want in high resolution. Is she apparently being treated? Very good contrast and color saturation! Thanks for the review!
GOOD DAY! I HAVE A CANON MARK 3, AND WANTED TO TRY THIS LENS ... IF I DON'T CUT ANYTHING, WILL THE MIRROR HIT? OR ARE THERE ADAPTERS THAT SOLVE THE PROBLEM?
Model 10A with the appropriate adapter should not cling. And please do not write in the comments all with a capital (capital) letter. Thanks.
Thank you for your answer .. and I ordered the adapter from your link in Ali-Express ...
Arkady, good afternoon! Why do not recommend the crop? I have a Canon 1100D
It is clear that this will no longer be wide, but I want something iron-glass and wider than what happens with 50mm. Other contraindications, except for narrowing the field of view, as I understand it, no?
Well, it is very heavy and dubiously low-contrast. Therefore, they do not recommend it. Try your best Pentacon 29 / 2.8 - a very nice lens.
Rodion, thanks for the tip. I will try. Moreover, in the market through Avito it is cheaper. Probably, by weight and price!) Although the noble offer a case with the World. I will buy separately))))
The Pentacle case is also nothing like that.
Hello!
Could you clarify, when using the Mir-10A lens on Canon technology with a T2-Canon EOS adapter, will focus confirmation work on the camera?
It will only be an adapter with a chip