Overview of the World-10A 28 mm F 3.5

For the opportunity to write lens overview Mir-10A 3,5 / 28 many thanks to Kostenko Ilya, who sent I have a lens from another area.

Review Mir-10A

Review Mir-10A

Focal length: 28mm
Aperture limits: F3.5-F22
Group / Lens: 7/8
Front Filter Diameter: 67mm
Number of aperture blades: 6
Minimum Focus Distance: 0.2m
The weight: 520g

First impression: the lens has a large diameter front lens, single-coated lenses, a plain yellow glare is visible. The lens is weighty, well shot down, inspires confidence. Originally Mir-10A It was delivered in a case with three filters.

Side view of the Mir-10A lens

Side view of the Mir-10A lens

Key features of the Mir-10A lens

  1. The lens is from a film camera, which means that it is suitable for both full-frame and cropped modern digital SLR cameras.
  2. The lens is manual, which means that you only have to focus manually.
  3. The lens has a diaphragm preset ring, it is very easy and convenient to use.
  4. There are all the necessary indicators for depth of field, distance to the focus object, and aperture value. This is an integral part of old lenses.
  5. The front cover is screwedbut does not snap. The front cover of the Mir-10A has an uncharacteristic property to screw in like a light filter. This pretty much affects the operational work with the lens. After all, when you saw the frame, you have to twist the front cover for a long time before taking a picture.

    Side view of the front lens of the Mir-10A lens

    View of the front lens of the Mir-10A lens

  6. On Nikon DX cameras EGF lens becomes 42mm, and the entire 'wide angle' of the lens disappears.
  7. The lens is very, very small short focus distance. Only 20 cm. I was able to shoot small objects without any problems. In this case, the lens bokeh is very peculiar.
  8. The focus ring rotates almost all 360 degrees. In this case, the front lens does not rotate, and the trunk of the lens is extended by 2 cm. When focusing, the entire lens block moves.
  9. The lens is not fast. The maximum aperture value is F / 3.5. For a wide-angle lens, this is not critical.
  10. When the diaphragm is closed, its 6 blades form not a standard “nut”, but an interesting “asterisk".
Enlightenment of the front lens of the Mir-10A lens and the type of aperture opening

Enlightenment of the front lens of the Mir-10A lens and the type of aperture opening

How to use with modern cameras?

'A' lenses with an interchangeable shank, such as the one in this review, are very easy to use on almost any modern digital camera (both DSLR and mirrorless), just select correct adapter. The replacement 'A' shank usually has an external M42 thread and an 'H' mount (similar to Nikon F). For use on modern cameras, the easiest way is to add the required adapter from M42 to the desired system or from Nikon F to the desired system to this shank.

View of the Mir-10A lens on a modern SLR camera

View of the Mir-10A lens on a modern SLR camera

Sample Photos

All photos taken on Nikon D700, JPEG. Photos without processing. The lens produces a very sharp image. Distortion is barely noticeable. The lens is a little yellow, like most old Soviet single-coated lenses. In the backlight can catch hares. In general, the image quality is not bad. I liked working with this lens, it has its own unique charm.

Attention: when using the lens on my Nikon D700 with the help of a replaceable shank KP-A / N and when focusing at infinity, the mirror catches the rear lens of the lens.


Catalog modern brand lenses 'Zenitar' и 'Helios' can look at this link.


Comments on this post do not require registration. Anyone can leave a comment. Many different photographic equipment can be found on AliExpress.


Hack and predictor Aviator:

Mir-10A is an interesting wide-angle prime lens. I do not recommend using it on cropped cameras. The lens has a very small minimum focusing distance and produces a very sharp picture.

Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram

Add a comment: Sergei

 

 

Comments: 198, on the topic: Obzor Mir-10A 28 mm F 3.5

  • Novel

    Could you recommend a good lens from inexpensive mostly for landscapes on a Canon crop camera?

    • Arkady Shapoval

      For landscapes take shirik. Of the inexpensive, oddly enough, relatives 18-55 work well, they will be better than many WORLDS.

    • Roman

      Canon 10-18 - Canon 18-55. Everything else will be much more expensive (and, by the way, not that much better).

  • Novel

    Thanks! Could you indicate the exact name of these two models?

  • Novel

    Should it look like this or can there be other signs?
    Canon EF-S 10-18mm f / 4.5-5.6 IS STM

  • Novel

    Or like that?
    Canon EF-S 18-55 mm f / 3.5-5.6 IS II

    • Roman

      > Canon EF-S 10-18mm f / 4.5-5.6 IS STM

      Yeah, he's the only one, but there were several 10-18.

      Canon EF-S 18-55 mm f / 3.5-5.6 IS II
      Canon EF-S 18-55 mm f / 3.5-5.6 IS STM
      The Canon EF-S 18-55 mm f / 4.0-5.6 IS STM can also get caught - it is much more compact and also very good.

      • Novel

        Thank you!
        And of these two, which one will be better and more reliable?
        I know that 10-18 is more expensive. It turns out that he?

        • Michael

          These are just different focal lengths - hence the price

      • Novel

        Strange, but this list does not have another lens. I saw it on Avito, and did not understand, but were they produced?

        • Roman

          In this list of options with a stub. Without a stub, there were versions 1, 2, 3, with 2 and 3 having a modification with USM. Total 8 modifications 18-55 for EF-S. Well, one more for mirrorless ones - EF-M 18-55 IS STM.

          • Novel

            Do you think that with USM is the normal version or is it better to take any with the stub?

            • Roman

              With a stub. Without a stub, it is too dark to shoot. IS STM will be better and not only because of the quiet engine for video.

              • Novel

                Thanks, thanks! Can STM serviceability be somehow checked upon purchase?

              • Roman

                Hang on the carcass and check. So there is nothing special to check. A smooth focusing course except without a carcass, well, the STM has an electronic drive, even this will not work outside the camera.

              • Novel

                I read a review of this lens in the STM version here, and noticed that it is well prone to dust absorption due to its design. So I wanted to clarify how critical is the dust inside? Tomorrow I want to see used, apparently not very ushatannymi. It is clear that dust can not be avoided, is it worth paying attention to?

              • Novel

                And will the corresponding lens hood give tangible convenience when handling this lens or will it be a useless thing?

    • Roman

      Read: "But there were several at 18-55"

  • Novel

    Tell me more, please, is it better not to take a used one, so as not to get stuck? How to check it when buying?

    • Michael

      You can and boo, if the finances are tight. It is necessary to check that so, that way. There are many articles on this topic on the Internet. I pulled myself at one time from various sources, you can use:
      https://yadi.sk/i/9rhEyEhSvkyEHg

  • Novel

    Thank you, Michael, for a useful and instructive article. It is only a pity that due to circumstances it will not always be possible to do all this.
    When it comes to lens manufacturing, is it worth considering? Japan, China, Thailand …….?

    • Novel

      Although I wanted to ask the same question regarding the cameras themselves.

      • Valery A.

        ,, Japan, China, Thailand ...? ,, Place of production does not matter (the company controls), Arkady compared 50 / 1,4D here with Japan and China. On cameras - only prof. FF cameras (as for Nikon).

        • Novel

          Strange, however, does the entry on the bottom plate mean that what was done in Japan means China anyway?

          • Valery A.

            What is the tablet? What do they write?

            • Novel

              I meant the tag on the bottom of the camera.

              • Novel

                Going to purchase a camera soon

              • Novel

                That's why I'm interested.

              • Valery A.

                I don't know about canon, I noted that for nikon. Presumably, the one you showed in Japan was made. “Made in Japan”, of course, warms the soul, but sigma, tamron, tokina are all Japanese, and the quality sometimes sags.

              • Roman

                This is a 7D, semi-professional model, albeit a crop. It is possible that they did in Japan.

                I would not have taken a steam bath on the topic of where they were doing. Old Soviet relic. If the entire line has no known problems (well, or your copy did not fall, did not sink, and the like) in general, it is all the same where it is done. Most amateur cameras do not survive to the end of the shutter life, they are replaced with something more decent before.

              • Michael

                Most Canon are made in Japan, even amateur ones. Nikon does almost everything in Thailand (or Malaysia - I don't remember). The plate warms the soul, but "does not affect the speed"

  • Novel

    Yes, I would like that.
    Now the new 7D carcasses are sold from 18k.

    • Novel

      Although there is an opinion that there are no new ones for a long time, and they are selling used goods under the guise of new Indians at VDNH

  • Novel

    Hello!
    Tell me, who is not busy, what recording speed of the CF card is enough for the camera to work properly? There are a lot of cards sold now and I would not want to pay extra money, since in any case you need to take into account the internal recording / reading speed of the camera itself.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      You forgot to indicate which camera you have

      • Novel

        Yes, sorry! Canon eos 7d

        • Arkady Shapoval

          7d writes down to 60 MB / second for recording on CF. Therefore, it makes no sense to take faster ones, the main thing is that the card speeds correspond to the declared ones. CF from SanDisk I think a good solution.
          Buffer 7d is quite capacious, therefore, if there is no need for serious reporting shooting, then any CF card will work well with the camera, but preferably UDMA 6/7

          • Novel

            Thank you!

  • Novel

    Hello!
    Arkady, did not immediately ask at the same time, could they still advise an inexpensive, but workable and reliable flash without bells and whistles?

    • Vladimir

      You haven't asked about light filters yet ...

  • Vladimir

    You can fucking ...
    On the page not a single word about Mir-10A

    • Roman

      Well, who is to blame that even the filters are more interesting than this World :)

      What can I say about him ... this ... Keith on his 28 with a hole at about 4 and with a stub will be no worse.

    • Novel

      Well, why not a single word? That's just the time for the practical question on Mir-10A, or rather, on its fastening. I wanted to ask him before, but first I had to find and buy a T2-Canon EOS adapter. I got the lens, as they say, "by inheritance." And it would be unlikely that I would buy it, given such conflicting opinions about it, and the costs of the adapter were very small. Today I decided to try to install an adapter on this lens, but nothing worked, because I’m doing it for sure wrong. I would very much like to hope for help in this matter.
      In the photo in this review, if I’m not mistaken, KP-A / N is already installed. Seeing this, I also removed the shank from the lens, unscrewed the three small screws and began to adjust my T2-Canon EOS adapter. Does not work. Then I thought that maybe I need to unscrew the core from the adapter itself, which also sits on three small cogs, but this did not help either. Having screwed everything back, I just tried to screw the adapter with the internal thread onto the lens thread, where the protective cover is screwed. The thread approached, but it did not completely turn on the entire thread. Tell me, how do you need to attach it correctly?

      • Roman

        T2 and KP A / N series and others are not very well compatible. Therefore, look for your own gearbox A / M, and screw it through the M42 - EOS.

        • Novel

          Do not quite understand. That is, in any case, the shank from the lens must be unscrewed, and in place of the adapter? And in the adapter itself, the core must first be twisted, otherwise how will it be fixed?

          • Roman

            The T2 connection is a threaded connection with a diameter of 42 mm with a pitch of 0.74 mm, invented by Tamron (not to be confused with M42x1 mm, which was used on the Zeniths). The working segment is 55 mm. Due to the large working length and the huge number of adapters, lenses with this connector could be installed on almost all systems. Telescopes often use it to connect to cameras. The adapter is then screwed onto the shank and bolted, everything holds well. You bought such a T2-EOS adapter.

            In the blessed USSR, where everything was stolen, but half was broken on the way, they decided to develop something similar - a system of removable adapters for installation on different cameras. On a standard M42, to Kiev with an F-mount from Nikon and something there (Zenits like?) With a K-mount from Pentax. By chance, both the diameter and the working segments approximately coincide, only the shank is not screwed on, but simply put on more tightly than T2 and is held in place by bolts. Therefore, use at your own risk. Or look for the original KP-A / N, on which the letters will be written in white - KP-A / N. Very often Chinese adapters with T2 are sold for this business, check. Or KP-A / M42 - this one is already on the standard M42 thread. And connect them with the Nikon F - Canon EOS or M42 - Canon EOS adapter. I was lucky, my Jupiter-37 and ZM-5A went straight with an adapter to the M42. Yours, too, should go, in theory, with an adapter or Nikon, or M42, they were not sold "naked" (it seems like even the second shank was put in a box - I don't know). And forget about T2.

            • Novel

              The fact is that I bought such an adapter, as this article reads: "... ..To use on modern Canon EOS DSLR cameras, you need a T2-Canon EOS adapter ... ...."
              So I did, but it turns out that it is wrong. Below are photos of such an adapter. And there, in one photo, I simply screwed the adapter onto the lens thread, where the rear protective cover stood. And I did not unscrew the shank from the lens. This is not right, you need to remove the shank, or am I mistaken?

        • Valery A.

          It is not clear why not immediately install the EOS-M42 adapter. Doesn't World-10A have such a thread?

          • Novel

            This way

            • Novel

              And so

              • Novel

                Excuse me, but is this shank the back of the lens with a thread onto which a plastic protective cap or shank is wound, is this a ring that goes further and is fastened with three screws?

              • Rodion

                T2 instead of the native tail (which three screws) must be fixed. But I think it will not be very easy.
                In general, you just had to take the usual M42-EOS and wind it up with what is already on the lens.

              • Roman

                The shank is the replacement part. You screwed the second shank on the shank kp-a / m42 - t2. They have a different thread. Remove T2, remove Kp-a / M42 (unscrew the screws), hang T2 and fasten with screws. Will only hold on to the screws, but it will. Or remove only T2, take the adapter m42 - eos and screw it onto the thread.

              • Novel

                Thanks! Now it’s more clear.

              • Novel

                Is there such an adapter?

              • Novel

                Although it would probably be more correct to sell this Mir-10A, there are too many difficulties ... ..

              • Novel

                Thank you all for your help!

  • Novel

    Photos are not sent in any way….

    • Novel

      1

      • Novel

        2

      • Roman

        Exactly

  • Sergei

    I had this Mir-10A lens in the film era. Even then, he noticeably lost to the wide-angle angles of the GDR 29 mm / 2,8 and 30 mm / 3,5 in size with comparable optical quality.
    Its only advantage was the state price of 90 rubles (but in reality it could be bought for at least 150) and a removable adapter in the tail, which allows you to put this subject on the old Zenith (m39) and Kiev / Nikon.
    As a result, the second-hand Pentacon 29 mm / 2,8 was sold and the proceeds were purchased (though without MS).
    This one, at least in size, made it possible to use a cover for the camera and more frequent filters with a diameter of 55 mm.
    In the digital era, the East German wide-angle could not compete in the quality of the image with a whale lens at this focal point, and was also sold.

  • Valery

    On a full-frame Nikon with a kp-a / n adapter. Infinity does not work, the mirror clings. The whole meaning of a wide angle for a landscape is lost. And the crop is not the same coat. I did not check with the full frame of the canon, there may also be a problem.

  • Anatoly

    Hello. Has anyone met Mir10T? I have one but ushatany! Without aperture, one lens unit! I bought it in Belarus for alteration. Perhaps not covering the full frame?

    • Rodion

      Covers.

      • Anatoly

        Today I tried to apply the lens unit to the Zenith 11. It covers the viewfinder. But sharpness is just like in macro mode! As if I attached the rangefinder to the lens to the mirror. Moreover, the lens unit pressed close to the carcass.

        • Rodion

          What's surprising then? He has some kind of fastening of his own. Play the tail, deepen the lens unit.

        • Sergei

          This version (Mir-10T) has already been described on the lens-club on the corresponding page.
          The owner of this subject decided to adapt it to a mirrorless camera so as not to change the helicoid and the body.

          • Anatoly

            My lens unit does not have a tail. The rear lens is approximately at the end of the entire lens unit. It is impossible to shove it deeper into the carcass. The case is slightly larger than m42, I think it's a rangefinder version of the Mir-10.

          • Anatoly

            All that remains is to adapt to my Sony A7.

          • Anatoly

            Sergey thanks for the link! Previously, for some reason, I could not find information on it! This is really a rangefinder lens, a television lens.

            • Sergei

              The card of this lens on the lens-club contains the data of two owners of this subject. I advise you to register on this resource and write to them - they will surely advise something useful on adaptation.

  • Anatoly

    As the lens is ushatany wrote. .without diaphragm. Perhaps there was a helicoid.

    • Sergei

      Perhaps the helicoid is still hidden inside, only you have not found it yet ...

      • Anatoly

        Sergey, unfortunately, my lens unit does not have a helicoid. If you look closely at the photo, you will notice a groove for the diaphragm and a couple of threads. For fastening the helicoid including. I will tinker at the tips of the master from Lipetsk. Thanks to Eugene!

        • Sergei

          Look also at lens-club cards for television lenses (Era-1T 52mm / 1,8 and Era-4T 85mm / 1,5).
          There is the same type of connection to the camera without helicoid and the control of the diaphragm through the gear system.
          You can write to the owners of these rarities and ask how they solved the helicoid problem.

          • Anatoly

            Thank you Sergey I will definitely look!

  • Hamlet

    "When using the lens on my Nikon D700 with the interchangeable KP-A / H shank and when focusing at infinity, the mirror clings to the rear lens of the lens."
    Arkady, what happens to the mirror in this case, does it not break? or how does this even happen? you just write so calmly about it ...

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Doesn't break, just freezes. The rear lens of the objective suffers more.

      • Hamlet

        Thank you, otherwise I'm afraid to try Gelik-44-3 on a full Canon. Yes, Gelik's rear lens is recessed in the lens unit, and the mounting ring and the lens unit body stick out there, so it is unlikely that the mirror will simply hang in this case.

  • Hamlet

    I understood why everyone scolds him, because he is rare and expensive, and not everyone can afford it. For example, I liked the picture from him, it gives old shots from the USSR, for example, 2 or 6 pictures in the examples. Today I bought one for myself, it seems that everything is spinning perfectly, but I want to disassemble it completely and wash it so that it shines. First impressions, it's just nice to hold it in your hands, for the first time I see a shovel lens in this design. I will check, unsubscribe.

    • Rodion

      Yes, no, he was scolded before, when prices had not yet inflated to a strange level that did not quite correspond to the optical properties. The lens is not bad in terms of sharpness, but the contrast of the image is not its strong point. And it is also very heavy and dark (its light transmission coefficient is also low, eats up ~ 1/3 steps).

  • Volodimir

    What kind of adapter is required for a Pentax digital camera?

    • B. R. P.

      Vihodyachi from that, what a tail the lens has.

  • Ganesha-1

    The lens meshes around the perimeter to such an extent that I regretted purchasing it and remaking it for the PENTAX K1. It's quite dark around the perimeter. Not recommended for use. In addition, it has a small rear working segment. On CANON you can still put L = 38 mm. but at L = 42 mm there are big problems. I gave it to the turners until the bottom of the rear ring fell out.
    Mir-1, in principle, is more convenient and no worse than Mir-10. and at a price 4-10 times cheaper. Mir-1 gave quite decent results.

  • Ganesha-1

    Well, if you really are completely crazy, like me, I advise you to buy ZODIAC-8B F=30 D= 3,5. (8-10 thousand rubles for 2022) If you say that it is heavy, then I will recommend you not to shoot anything at all without a fundamental tripod weighing more than 5 kg. The adapter is made from Bayonet-B, a mating ring for your camera, and another turning part. Do not be upset by the difficulties - this is for professionals. Please note that it has a 6x6 cm format, hence the quality.

  • davy

    I don’t understand why this Soviet shit costs as much as an airplane?

    • B. R. P.

      A rarity for perverts because...

    • Novel

      I also asked myself the same question today when I came across Avito

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