Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1: 4 is Nikon's first autofocus telephoto zoom lens.
Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1: 4
Main technical characteristics of Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1: 4:
| Review Instance Name | Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1: 4 |
| Basic properties |
|
| Front Filter Diameter | 62 mm, metal thread for filters |
| Focal length | 70-210 mm EGF for Nikon DX cameras is 105-315 mm |
| Zoom ratio | 3 x |
| Designed by | for Nikon film cameras |
| Number of aperture blades | 7 straight (not rounded) petals |
| Tags | a window with a focusing distance in meters and feet, focal lengths for 70, 85, 100, 135, 210 mm, marks for aperture values f / 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22. Tags for 70 and 210 mm focal length to work in the infrared spectrum. |
| Diaphragm | From F / 4 to F / 32 over the entire range of focal lengths. The lens has an aperture ring (Non-G - lens type) |
| MDF | 1.1 m, maximum magnification ratio 1: 3.9 |
| The weight | 760 g |
| Optical design | 13 elements in 9 groups. Optics has NIC enlightenment.
The image of the optical circuit is clickable. The optical design is identical to the lens. Nikon Lens Series E Zoom 70-210mm 1: 4 (I did not find a diagram from the AF version) |
| Lens hood | Nikon NH-24 |
| Manufacturer country | MADE In Japan (Japan) |
| Period | From September 1986 to April 1987 (lenses were produced for only 8 months). In August 1987, a replacement addition came out in the form of Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1: 4-5.6. |
| Price | Prices for modern Nikon Nikkor telephoto lenses are available look at this link |
The first thing that catches your eye is the interesting lens design. When changing the range of focal lengths, the lens does not move anything. The lens looks solid on the camera.
The design is austere, the whole body is made in black with white markings. Only the minimum aperture value and the aperture lock button are orange.
Sony has a similar lens - Minolta 70-210 / 4, which is called "beer can" due to the similarity of the lens and aluminum can. Since the Nikon 70-210mm f / 4 AF has the same specifications, it is sometimes also called "beer can".
Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1: 4
Nikon 70-210mm f / 4 AF is valued as a great portrait lens. Indeed, after a series of shots, you begin to appreciate his unique design and amazing picture. And Nikon 70-210mm f / 4 AF is very compact (as for a telephoto) and not at all heavy. My Nikon 70-300mm 4.5-5.6 much more bulky and slow due to the fact that his trunk is lengthening. For lovers of faster aperture optics Note: Nikon 70-210mm f / 4 AF is darker Nikon 80-200 just 1 stop (2 times).
Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1: 4
The main points you need to know about the Nikon 70-210mm f / 4 AF lens and their effect on the resulting image.
- The lens from the film cameras, and this gives the ability to use it on full-frame cameras Nikon Most likely, if you are configured to use or already use this lens, then when switching to a full frame by type Nikon D800, D3s etc., the lens can prove itself in all its glory.
- When used on Nikon DX APS-C cameras, the viewing angle will be narrower. The viewing angle will be equivalent to the viewing angle of a focal length lens 105-315mm when used on film cameras and / or in full frame. On my Nikon D90 и Nikon D200 the lens turns into a decent telephoto, and a rather large aperture allows you to do just great portraits.
- At the lens general aperture. This is indicated in the lens name as F / 4. This means that no matter how cool the zoom is from 70 to 210mm, and aperture will be permanent. This makes the lens look like its colleagues from the professional lineup. The most important thing is that already with F / 4.0 the lens is completely 'working' in terms of creating sharp photos.
- At the lens internal zoom. Internal zoom. When zooming, the lens does not extend its trunk - this is also an important professional feature of the lens. The zoom at the lens is exactly three times. There is a popular belief in what people do good zoom with a magnification of more than three - impossible due to physical factors.
- When focusing, the front element both moves and moves forward. Leaves somewhere by 3cm. This is inconvenient for manual focusing and for the use of some filters (especially polarizing and gradient). With manual focusing, the focus ring rotates 180 degrees, this can be easily checked by a small groove in the ribbed ring of the focus. Auto Focus Slow.
- The lens has a wonderful focus distance scale.
- The lens has aperture control ring, it is necessary for old film cameras and a useful thing when used, for example, with other systems. If you need the usual automatic iris control, then rotate the ring to F32where it clicks itself. The diaphragm \ diaphragm control is made in the form of a button, and not a moving slider.
- The lens has a standard 62mm filter. I advise you to immediately screw on it protective filter.
- The lens has an aperture with 7 blades. The diaphragm petals are not rounded, and the diaphragm hole creates nuts in the blur zone.
- True to the lens no depth of field indicatorsbut there is a focus correction in the infrared for 70 and 210mm.
- Nikon 70-210mm f / 4 AF very well shot, without backlash. With its 760g of weight, it is very convenient to consider my cameras Nikon D200, D700but on Nikon D80 it is no longer so convenient to control the lens, since it takes the bulk of the camera-lens bundle onto itself.
- This is one of the few lenses with zoom and focus. the rear lens group does not move... This will prevent the camera from sucking in dust, and in general - just a nice little thing.
It's important: auto focus with this lens is available only when using him on cameras with built-in motor focusing.
Exact list Nikon DSLR cameras with a built-in focus motor, on which this lens will focus automatically:
- D1, D1h, D1x, D2x, D2xs, D2h, D2hs
- D3, D3x, D3s, D4, D4s, D5, D6
- Df
- D50, D70, D70s, D80, D90
- D7000, D7100, D7200,D7500
- D100, D200, D300, D300s,D500
- D600, D610, D750, D780
- D700, D800,D800E, D810, D810a, D850
- Fujifilm FinePix S1 Pro, S2 Pro, S3 ProS3 Pro UVIR, S5 ProIS Pro
- Kodak DCS PRO 14n, DCS Pro SLR/n
Exact list Nikon DSLR cameras without a built-in focus motor, on which this lens will not focus automatically:
Only auto focus and sound confirmation of focus will not work with these cameras, all other important functions, such as automatic exposure metering and automatic iris control, will work well.
You will find a lot of useful information on the types of cameras and lenses Nikon here.
Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1: 4
Thoughts on the Nikon 70-210 mm f 4 AF:
The lens has a very small minimum focusing distance, you can take pictures of a completely normal macro with 210 mm 1: 4 magnification. The lens is not of the D type, because the camera will not know about the focusing distance to the object, maybe it will not be convenient for someone to work with the flash with this lens, but I did not personally feel the serious difference between D and none D. Lens focusing slow. Yes, the Nikon 70-210mm f / 4 AF has really slow focusing, the camera buzzes and twists the focuser for a very long time with its motor. When focusing, a rather strong and unpleasant sound is produced.
Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1: 4
About image quality:
The lens is almost completely devoid of distortion. The lens is sharp enough already with a full f / 4.0 aperture. Significant open diaphragm chromatic aberration, including strong friringo. The color reproduction is excellent, although they say that due to the old NIC (Nikon Integrated Coating) enlightenment, the lens can distort colors a little.
Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1: 4
Sample photos on Nikon 70-210 mm f 4 AF
More examples of photos on this lens can be seen with me here, here, here, here и here. My wedding (the one where I was the groom, not wedding photographer) was shot on Nikon D610 + Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1: 4.
After about 1986 years passed from 2012 to 26, Nikon came to its senses and released Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 4G ED SWM VR IF Nano Crystal Coat. But this is not the original 70-210 / 4, but still 70-200 / 4.
The only weakness of the lens is poor coping with backlight - the lens starts to catch hares and lose contrast. Perhaps a hood would help with this ailment. Personally, I was pleasantly surprised that a lens even at 30 meters can separate the background from the subject in the field of focus. Vignetting on crop is minimal, but at 210mm 4.0 it is still slightly noticeable. The bokeh of the lens is excellent, I'll even write “amazing”.
Sigma Auto Focus UC ZOOM 70-210mm 1: 4-5.6 Multi-Coated and Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1: 4
All Original Similar Nikon FX Telephoto Lenses
Below is a list of all Nikon Nikkor telephoto lenses without high aperture and with auto focus support:
- Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1: 4, 1986-1987
- Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1:4-5.6, 1987-1993
- Nikon AF Nikkor 75-300mm 1:4.5-5.6, 1989-1998
- Nikon AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1:4.5-5.6D, 1991-1999
- Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1:4-5.6D, 1993-2000
- Nikon AF Micro Nikkor 70-180mm 1: 4.5-5.6D ED, 1997-2005
- Nikon AF Nikkor 75-240mm 1:4.5-5.6D, 1999-2000
- Nikon AF Nikkor 70-300mm 1:4-5.6D ED, 1998-2006
- Nikon AF Nikkor 70-300mm 1:4-5.6D, 1998-2006 (?)
- Nikon AF Nikkor 70-300mm 1:4-5.6G, from 2000 to 2014, black or silver
- Nikon AF S Nikkor 70-300mm 1:4.5-5.6G ED VR IF SWM, from 2006 to 2017
- Nikon AF S Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 4G ED SWM VR IF N Nano Crystal Coat, from 2012 to the present day
- Nikon AF-P Nikkor 70-300mm 1:4.5-5.6E VR ED, 2017 to present
The names of the lenses are indicated according to their spelling on the case.
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Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1: 4 is a great telephoto lens with interesting characteristics. One of the few lenses that you can safely recommend as a portrait zoom lens. It has an excellent drawing, small dimensions and low price. If you are in the throes of choosing a zoom portrait, take Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1: 4 you won’t be mistaken, just remember that autofocus will only be on older Nikon cameras.
See also the review of a modern similar lens Nikon N AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1: 4G ED SWM VR IF Nano Crystal Coat.
Material prepared Arkady Shapoval. Training/Consultations | Youtube | Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | Telegram
Acquired 70-210mm f4. Nice picture ... Satisfied. Reminds me of 105mm f2. Thanks for your review.
Good day. Arkady tell me, I want to buy Nikon AF-S 70-200mm f 4G ED VR while at 5200. Is it worth it? If there is a cheaper alternative - tell me. I will suggest for a review :)
Thanks in advance. !!!!
At 5200 there will be no autofocus, I think it’s not worth taking a manual (in your case) lens for that kind of money. Look at these options. https://radojuva.com.ua/2011/03/obzor-nikon-55-200-dx-vr-otzuvu/
https://radojuva.com.ua/2011/10/obzor-nikon-70-300mm-f-4-5-5-6g-ed-if-af-s-vr-zoom-nikkor/
https://radojuva.com.ua/2013/07/nikon-55-300-vr-ed-dx-review/
Admit you are raving, right? AF-S glass will not have autofocus? Lol
Do not write nonsense.
Lol here you are. The 5200 does not have a screwdriver, therefore there will be no autofocus with this lens.
Nikon AF-S 70-200mm f 4G ED VR has a built-in focus motor.
Exactly, I did not carefully read it, I thought that we were talking about the lens from this review.
ps sorry namesake.
As I said, I bought myself such a lens on Nikon D7000. I got the lens after falls, or blows, in short, battered. Plus a fungus on the front lens. I took this step deliberately, since it was the cheapest offer in Ukraine. I am completely satisfied with the lens! Not bad as a portrait painter. An excellent telephoto lens for sunny days, I tried it at a small concert, I didn’t miss the focus, it seemed that with an aperture of 4.5 by 70 mm this lens was a little faster in 18-70, but this is just my personal impression :) Regarding the backlight, I would not say which does not hold well, but I add a little contrast in post-processing. But the HA are noticeable in the back. My copy is still without a hood, I have to arrive one of these days, I will try. Autofocus is not to say that it would be slow, in my opinion at the level of 55-200 VR. It drives from end to end, of course for a long time, but if you track the plot of the shooting, it copes quite normally. On auto-motorcycle races, football, etc. I have not tried it, I will not argue. (55-200 is also of little use for shooting dynamic scenes, I was much better able to shoot sports at 18-105.) When filming a concert in a small hall, I used a monopod, it helps a lot. And so the lens only pleases! Well, good-quality, of course) Can't be compared with 55-200 in design
Of the 3 telephoto lenses available (18-105,70, 300-70 and this one), 210-XNUMX is the “slowest”, but the most flexible…. I took it purely as a portrait photographer, I was very pleased with the result. For dynamic subjects, it is of little use due to the slowness of AF ...
Use paired with D2Xs
I want to purchase this copy. There is such an option with a shabby front lens https://cloud.mail.ru/public/c6fba2e5cce1/DSC_2404.jpg Price 2100. Is it worth it or not? Are these damages critical?
Of course not. How do you know what happened to him and why the lens is worn?
Do not take. It is better to pay extra $ 20-30 and take it in good condition. The price of lenses almost always remains in place and changes with the release of an updated replacement for this glass. So, you can then sell it for the same money or lose 10-ku, which is not so critical.
Thank you!
And one more question, if shooting with this lens and the puffy sb-910 in the auto iris mode will normally measure the exposure?
Hello! Can YOU suggest a solution to the problem. at all focal lengths above 70, the lens does not focus to infinity. sent through the service center to Kiev for repair, the answer is that we can not do anything. It's a pity, a good lens, it focuses up to 70 meters, but no further. Can I do something? I will be grateful for advice or hint.
It is possible that the lens was disassembled and then assembled crookedly. There the helicoid is in the front part, and if you screw it up incorrectly, there will be no infinity. In a properly assembled lens, the mark (slot) on the focusing ring when set to “infinity” should be exactly below the distance window. And, accordingly, with the minimum focusing distance, this slot is strictly at the top (even here on the double photo of this glass you can see where the slot is). Check it out. In general, nothing terrible, but if you still assembled it crookedly, you will have to disassemble and assemble it correctly.
Alex, thank you very much for the advice. one problem. scary to disassemble. suddenly I won’t collect it. :)
In general, there is nothing tricky there. If you are friends with mechanisms and have an “engineering mindset”, there will be no problems :) I give a hint: to disassemble it, you need to remove the wide elastic band from the case. Well, like a sock)))
Alexey, hello. You do not adjust lenses for an hour? Thanks.
Alexei! thanks for the help. indeed, the slot is not twisted to the mark. Thanks again.
I tried 2 similar lenses on the D800, but one definitely had back focus, and on the other there was no way to punch using a template, and the sharpness on the Sigma 70-300 was better, so I didn't dare to take it. Well, the conclusion - you cannot take optics if there is no way to check. I was very attracted by the build quality, smooth movement of the mechanics. Of the minuses, it can be noted that this is not a D-series, because shooting with a flash occurs with blunders, when compared with the D-series.
Probably not always the case, I bought it on Ibei at your own peril and risk, and everything turned out great.
The picture is actually very, very nice.
Hello Bright. Can you please answer a couple of questions about the Nikkor 70-210 f4? The fact is that I am looking after a telephoto lens on the d750. The new 70-200 f4 and f2.8 are expensive until I wait to buy them ...
I thought about taking this one temporarily. I shoot mostly portraits. There are 85 1.8g and 105 f2.8 micro fixes for this. I like the picture from them. But sometimes we need more authentic ... including for travel. 70-300 f4,5 - 5.6 test, didn't impress in portraits ...
How is he at FF? Do you have d610 in my opinion? I now have d750, approximately similar cameras ...
Also interested in how it allows you to shoot landscapes from afar on the covered? Are the edges not too soapy?
What are the pros and cons of this glass? What advice would I have? Thanks in advance for your advice ...
The glass is soapy in the corners - see the comment below from:
Alexander Malyaev
19.03.2015 in 13: 38
Good afternoon, tell me such a moment I bought this lens in conjunction with the D300, I just can’t achieve the desired sharpness, the previous owner also has D300 and everything’s ok, I have soap for some reason. I twisted the fine tuning in +6 it became better but not perfect, I can’t figure it out, maybe the problem is in the carcass.
Maybe just a copy of the lens is unsuccessful.
Good afternoon. I bought this, everything pleases, there is one thing - you lower the front part down and inside something that also goes down. Doesn't affect the pictures? What could it be? Or is it so?
Guys, tell the “teapot” whether it is worth changing Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3,5-5,6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical to Nikon 18-70mm AF-S 3.5-4.5G ED-IF DX and Nikon AF Nikkor 70-210mm 1: 4 described above. Nikon D7000 camera. I have Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-200mm 1: 3,5-5,6G ED SWM VR IF Aspherical, but somehow everything is not so - soapy, dull, in a word I am thinking about replacing.
Do not wart вар !!! I have 18 і 200-70 і 210-4 f18. So from 200-200 I am browning constantly. At 70 mm with a stable win even a wonderful picture and a clear view already with a closed diaphragm. Bokeh troshki інше. Ale on crop cameras tse little. 210-800 garnish himself pokzav at d7000. On d18 more beautifully behave 200-XNUMX. In addition, you probably don’t have a crop.
Arkady, there are a few questions on the lens (he just came to me today).
1. “Aperture lock / aperture control is made in the form of a button” - I don’t understand why it is needed at all and how to use it?
2. “you should turn the ring to the value F32, where it snaps into place” - it doesn't snap on its own, so sometimes I accidentally knock down the diaphragm with my finger - I think this has to do with question # 1.
3. “but there is a focusing correction in the infrared range for 70 and 210mm” - what is this for, how can it be used?
3. On F32, it becomes possible to change the diaphragm with the wheel on the carcass. In modes M and A, everything works as it should, but in mode S, when the shutter speed is changed, the aperture does not automatically change. Why? Is this a feature of the bundle or did I screw something in the settings?
PS After I finally deal with the lens and shoot real scenes, I will describe everything in detail. So far I can say that I really like the sharpness and quality of the picture, but it’s hard to cope with such a bandura without a stub. By the way, it focuses on the D7100 in 1 second when refocusing from 1.5m to 150m and back at the long end, that is, the focus speed does not bother me.
I’m taking off the very last question. There wasn’t enough light, but I dulled.
1. The answer is in the review.
Details on the aperture ring are described here. https://radojuva.com.ua/2012/03/nikon-lenses/#g-nikon
2. the button sometimes does not fix firmly enough, you’ve got one
3. It is logical that for shooting in the infrared spectrum, for example, on infrared film, or on the Canon 20DA, 60DA.
3.1 This is a feature of the current exposure, details here https://radojuva.com.ua/2011/03/rezhimy-fotoapparata-p-a-s-m/
I catch you on the word that unsubscribe.
Really dislikes backlighting, infection. Even at an angle of the axis of 45 degrees to the sun (I didn’t precisely measure it), the contrast already loses, even with a small universal hood (and my own, by the way, is also small). I'll try to make the hood myself, taking into account the angle under the crop, the main thing is to make IMHO narrower and more authentic.
PS Lenses are almost ideal, a few dust particles ...
Alexander, if you have not yet figured out the button for fixing the aperture ring, then, when turning all the way, i.e. to f32, pull the button slightly towards you and it will snap into place.
And to myself I can say that, unfortunately, this lens poorly resolves the d7100 matrix, is completely unsuitable for long distances and terribly chromates on distant objects at any aperture value.
Well, near, but at large facilities, he is a good devil. In general, I am a little disappointed and intend to sell it for a couple with a manual two-hundredth too f 4.
It seemed to me that my copy very well resolves the D7100 matrix. Even not on test shots, in real work it showed itself well. Only shorter exposure should be set. What classmates did you compare him to? After all, IMHO, it is incorrect to compare it with fixes ...
I was very surprised to play with 55-300, in terms of color (saturation) contrast and sharpness, this budget DX TV set furnished 70-210. Maybe he’s good for a portrait, but carrying such a bandura in a coffer just for the sake of a portrait is not acceptable for me. If I manage to sell, I will buy 70-300 vr.
Alexander, could you add a photo on 70-210 and 7100?
Here from two meters f4 210mm 1 \ 500 iso 250. Processing is not deep.
everything else, the button rotates 90 degrees and fixes the aperture ring in one position, but not in the second (he tormented himself for almost an hour while figured out)
Can I fine tune autofocus on the Nikon D600 with this lens? Thanks.
As far as I know, fine tuning can be done with any autofocus lens.
Arkady, please tell me which lens for a portrait is better than the lens from this review or Nikor 85 f1.8g thanks in advance
Yes, I forgot to add a Nikon D 7100 camera
85, especially on the crop she is like 128mm - a cucumber for a girl. :) The picture quality from the 85 is undoubtedly better than from the 70-210 in all respects. Well, if only you need to shoot portraits from a distance, as I sometimes do at events. But I have both.
Markokoltsa arrived today. I tried them together with Helios 81H and this Nikon 70-210. Nikon definitely liked more than Helios. It will be possible to shoot a bug or a bee from a meter in the entire frame, and the depth of field is wider than that of Helios. But you need at least a monopod, it's hard to handle, although with an emphasis on the knee it's ok ...
Alexander thank you very much for the answer, I also thought that 85 would be better
I figured out the loss of contrast with the lens. You just need a long hood, not a standard one. It is best to put on a makeshift cylinder on top of the native HN-24 lens hood (with a cylindrical front), and extend / retract it depending on the FR. Well, until I glued the cylinder, a palm with a visor over the hood also helps. The veil remains only when the sun is in the frame, which in general we will consider an artistic device. )))
Oh yes, I will clarify that the above works great on crop. As it will be on FF - HZ. Although it will probably be the same, only to push the cylinder less.
I sold my 70-210 (I took 80-200 2.8), but only positive memories. 70-210 on f4 + Fuji S5 PRO
IMHO on the Nikon D600 generally behaves better than on the D7100, at least I liked it more. For some reason, it has become much better to keep backlight, even without a lens hood and even with the sun in the frame. But the blurring of the edges begins to be evident, although the center is more or less normal. Let's say a full frame at 190mm f / 11:
I didn’t sharpen, I did not twist the sharpness.
But 100% crop from the center and from the edge. Immediately striking. Although I do not chase pixel-by-pixel sharpness, I don’t care, but it might be important to someone.
Hello colleagues, amateurs, pros, Arkady! I ask for help with advice, I bought this lens, I got enough of it in not bad condition. I am determined to work with him for a long time, so whoever bought a filter put himself on the market, is there an option on the market with an external and internal split under the body and what would be the hood to be screwed on. Thank you in advance for an example, if you have experience in using different filters and specific examples of their effect on the final photo, except for a protective one with an explanation of the effect on this lens - I would be doubly grateful.
Any filter has internal and external threads, respectively, the hood can be wound into any installed filter. With this lens, you can use all filters except polarizing. Whether or not to install a protective filter is up to you, but any filter is an additional piece of glass in the optical circuit and it certainly won’t improve the picture.
Many thanks! But doesn’t it be difficult to say what you have on it? (I read your comments earlier in all the articles, I often listen, because I use 7100 and I understand that your trunk of knowledge on the combination of this carcass with different lenses will be brighter than mine). Thank you in advance.
Why can’t you put a polarizer?
Can. But this complicates the shooting process. First we aim at the object, focus - the front lens will turn where it needs to be. Then you can remove your finger from the button and adjust the effect by rotating the polaric. Then again we focus on the same object - if the lens moves slightly, we shoot. For a leisurely thoughtful shooting, it is quite suitable and not very annoying, for reportage it is contraindicated in order to avoid a nervous breakdown. :)
I use filters on glasses to a minimum, only in bad weather or if a polarik is needed, since even the highest-quality ones spoil the picture (it can get blurry, lose contrast, catch unnecessary glare - especially noticeable in backlight). On this particular lens, I sometimes have to first screw the 62mm-67mm raising ring, then the polarik, then the rubber hood instead of the native one (if necessary). There is no vignetting enhancement with this design even at 70mm on a full frame. It should be taken into account that the front lens of the 70-210 rotates, so first aim, then adjust by rotating the polarik or the hood on it, then shoot.
PS Cleaning the lens is not so difficult, IMHO do not shake the front lens very much to the detriment of the picture, putting protective filters on an ongoing basis.
You will find many examples of the influence of filters on a picture on the Internet, it makes no sense to repeat everything here. Of all the filters at the moment, only a few have not lost their relevance: polarization, neutral, gradient, infrared. The rest to use on digital technology does not make sense.
Alexander, thank you for your help! Regarding my goal - I came across a copy of 1986, but it is practically new (I thought adjustment, but it is really new). That's why I bought it because the state of cosmetics is 5 +++++ (I can't afford 80-200), and, frankly, I want to preserve this quality in the future (suddenly life will force me to sell, so let the owner also get this the quality as I got it, believe me at all for modest money). I am grateful to you for your advice, can you tell me for a portrait, what do you put on it from the filters? Thanks for the answer.
There is no need to set any filters for portraits. If there is a desire, then the soft focus can then be emulated in Photoshop with much wider customization options than the soft filter will give you. Yes, and don’t think that I set the raising ring for any purpose, I just have a good 67mm pole and every good filter is very expensive.
I definitely thank you for the competent advice. One thing only, excites me, I do not want to hook and scratch the front lens accidentally, since this lens is good, without further ado. But in the polar, I somehow didn’t look in their direction, but what does it cost you, and how much does it cost?
Polyarik mainly for shooting in sunny weather, removes glare and reflexes. It also makes the sky more blue, emphasizes the clouds. I have a Hoya PL-CIR HD for 4600r, but there is better (and more expensive).
Why, you guys, use a polaric on this lens, this is hellish trash. After each refocusing, put your finger into the hood and adjust the filter. Pure masochism, I personally had enough for one shooting day. I no longer use a polarizer with this glass, and generally rarely use this lens, only when there is no need to make one hundred percent crop. Well, it does not allow a matrix on 7100. Ideally, for 7100 - 7200, well, for the remaining 24 megapixel crops it is necessary to have modern glasses, certainly with a stabilizer, micro-lubricants are still present whatever you say.
I used the polar on it, it’s quite normal for me, I rotated the hood itself. I do not use the polarizer on a permanent basis on glasses, I fasten it only when it is really necessary for the frame. After all, a Polyarik is far from always a useful thing, it can do much harm.
Well, I don’t know, in nature, for lack of a good shirik, I use 18-55, the last one with a button, so I don’t take off the Polarist at all. And the "harm" from a polarizing filter, from a cheap one, of course, I have experienced only in one case, for half a day I chased dragonflies with a makrik and a polarik, I thought the glare from the wings would disappear, about 1000 frames snapped off, and as a result, not the glare, but all the details disappeared down the drain. I deleted all frames, not a single one. So I am for clean glass without any additives, if it is not a landscape and not water. If you want to protect the front lens, attach the hood and learn how to properly wash the lens.
Yarkiy, I'm sorry, but do you really think that the lens is obliged to resolve the matrix, otherwise a bad lens? I do not believe! )))
Did I say "must"? I said does not allow, it is not the same thing. Here is 100% crop, at 105mm 2,8 afs vr micro. This is geranium pollen. At 70-210 this will not work.
Thank you, your advice and a healthy discussion with a colleague, a very valuable experience, a description of which cannot be found. Regarding the lens in conjunction with the 7100, don’t tell me about sharp angles that can be circumvented: I understood everything from the polarization, by the resolution of the matrix, too, but I don’t plan to change the lens so far because I just bought it)))) I’m interested in how they fought with micro-lubricant, and which an alternative was used at long focal lengths to avoid HA. The photo is very beautiful, I am pleasantly surprised that the 7100 is capable of this (I hope that over time my hands will stop shaking, and they will begin to delight the eye with pictures at the exit).
And finally, what you photograph in a room where there is little light and even less space (I photograph people in the workplace, as usual, this is an office. I leave the situation if there is more space then half a half Nikon 1.8, (quality is good. Example https: // doc. ua / news / news / luchshie-vrachi-yanvarya-po-versii-docua), if not then kit + sb700 (but the quality is just none, my 2 photos are the last from the bottom https://doc.ua/news/news/luchshie-vrachi-dekabrya-po-versii-docua ).
Thanks in advance for the advice (if you have thoughts and a budgetary solution to this problem, then thanks twice as much).
The latter is frankly yellow, and the flash is directly in the forehead. Try to puff on the ceiling or adjust the diffuser. Lubricants are generally treated by short exposure. 70-210 it’s dark for rooms, it seems to me that 50mm 1,8 will obviously be better, and 35mm 1,8 is generally wonderful. Here at 35mm 1,8 in a cramped bus without preparation, offhand.
Thanks! Regarding the photo, I completely agree, because I hit it on the forehead, and in order for people to see the picture, I had to look for the background (it’s hard in the box with the background, I hid the interior there))), and it’s limited in time, and I didn’t have SB700 then, this is a regular one). Yes, everything is clear with the eye !!))).
Regarding 35 1.8, I did not use it, but I look at your photo - completely in vain ... To be honest, I was looking towards 28 f 1.8, 12-24 f4, 14-24 f 2.8, of course used, but from 35 you are me so they sat down slightly. Since I can afford it, and apparently I will close many of my questions. And I understand that 2 feet of aperture ratio in a dark office will pull me out anyway. Tell me, is it worth picking up on 28 a 1.8, for the previously described purpose and shooting group photos indoors?
And thanks again for the time spent on me !!!!
And you know, I don’t think anything, I just like lenses that are sharp like diarrhea or like a razor, and to convince myself that it’s not soap at all but awesome artistic value is somehow disgusting. I do not like a sharp lens, there is Photoshop, you do not know how to use it, there are sharpness settings in the camera. Of course, pixel-by-pixel granularity is far from always necessary, but damn it, it’s so nice to realize that you have it.
Well, I put a smiley face. )))
Oh litter, I also wanted to, corrected. :))
Good day! Dear Arkady, Yarkiy and Alexander Malyaev, you can be asked to explain how you photograph a black-and-white photo at 7100. The essence of the question is whether it is possible to play with the parameters in A and M modes, and set the shutter speed, ISO, aperture myself. I can not find how put the camera in black and white, except for taking pictures in effect mode, but there everything is on the machine, tell me please. Thanks in advance. (I welcome if, for lack of time, give direction to a normal readable source) Thank you very much in advance.
I don't take black and white photos right away. IMHO it is more correct to process it in Photoshop in the appropriate way, depending on the genre. There are many processing techniques, depending on what plot and what result you want to get - look for lessons on the Internet.
Alexei on the camera in the shooting menu, find the Pikture Control mode and select Monochrome and shoot, and when you move the multi selector to the right, you can choose tinting, etc.