Photo tricks. Part 2

Today we have the next part of the tricks. Below you will learn how to simplify your life in the manual camera control mode, overcome vignetting and squeeze macro photography to the maximum from your lens.

Photo tricks. Part 2

Photo tricks. Part 2

Manual Camera Tricks M (Manual Mode).

In fact, the manual M mode on some Nikon cameras is not so manual and the camera can help you achieve the correct exposure. So in auto ISO mode, to compensate for the shutter speed and aperture the camera will try to set the optimal ISO. Well, if the ISO is also set manually and you need to take pictures with the flash in bad dark conditions, you can set the shutter speed, aperture and ISO, then the camera will select the optimal flash power for the correct exposure. This is a very convenient moment, as you can abandon standard excerpts at 1/60 for flash and set, for example, for a telephoto lens 1/100 or 1/200 and the desired aperture, and the camera itself will give the desired impulse by flash. With this help, you can achieve sharper photos when using short exposures, which will remove the effect of the blur from hand shake. The most interesting thing is that the dose of light received under such conditions when using a flash is almost independent of excerpts, be it 1/30 or 1/200, the flash pulse is very short, less than 1/1000 of a second.

How to squeeze the maximum macro from the lens?

Quite simply, for this you need to unscrew the zoom to the maximum, for example, for a whale lens 18-55mm it is 55mm and close the aperture as much as possible, for example for a whale lens 18-55mm it will be F36. After that, in manual focus mode, unscrew the focus ring to a minimum. If you don’t know where the minimum is, find the maximum on the removed object and turn it the other way to the end. After that, you need to move the camera with the lens so that the subject becomes sharp. Please note that you need to move the camera with lens set to maximum focal length and minimum focus distanceto get the maximum increase. After that, the most interesting thing is that you can bring the camera even closer to the subject, and the viewfinders will seem that the image has become sharp (blurred). Then release the shutter. The trick is that when you close the depth of field aperture (depth of field), it will become many times thicker and the blurry edges of the subject will become sharp with the right approach. Thus, we squeeze the maximum out of the lens. I advise you to use the flash in this mode, since with the aperture in F36 at home excerpt It will be on the order of several seconds, and with a flash, the camera will most likely set 1/60. Well, if this macro is not enough - you can look to the side macro rings, or reverse adapter.

And one more trick associated with vignetting.

Do you really dislike vignetting (darkening the corners) in your photos, and don't feel like editing at all? One of the ways out is use of lenses from a full frame on a cropped matrix. Since the smaller matrix scans images of only the central zone in the lens, the dark angles simply do not fall on the matrix. Of course, it’s much easier to use a camera that has auto-correction of vignetting, or just pull the vignette from a RAW file. Well, if you discard the difficulties in strona, just close the diaphragm a couple of stops according to the specification of the lens - and voila, vignetting will disappear on its own. But to make vignetting more powerful is a more complicated task, it’s quite difficult to do without a light filter here. If you have a full-frame camera, then such a focus can be done using a medium format lens. What is a medium format lens you can learn by example Carl Zeiss Jena DDR Biometar 2.8 /120

Do not forget to press +1, tweet, like. Thanks for attention. Arkady Shapoval.

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Comments: 23, on the topic: Photo tricks. Part 2

  • Serg

    Great review!

  • Great tips, I look forward to continuing!

  • Aleks de Kairoy

    Super, I liked it, I tried on nikkor 18-55, helios 81N, they themselves, but with a reversing adapter, had to completely open the aperture on the nikor, the external flash, a macro fly away (photographed coffee beans). Thanks for the advice, just learning to work in M ​​mode)))

  • Kirill

    yes ... M mode is difficult .... And I like it more so far. in M you need to think about everything. About aperture, shutter speed, if auto ISO is disabled, then about it.

    • Arkady Shapoval

      yeah, also about flash power, more details in the Exposure section

  • Vic

    I tried it with a macro, it's cool! The only problem is that my small flash, even with the head fully extended, as well as the maximum zoom of the lens (Tamron is quite long)) gives a shadow at the bottom of the frame. You can, however, place the object at the top of the frame, and then cut it out in the editor .. Thank you!

  • anonym

    Useful info)

  • Mihailo

    Everything is clear about Vynetka. And I don't need to tweak it - if I turn the frame around the frame on the CROP matrix, I display the photo in Camera Raw, and I turn on the distortion correction in the settings (turning it automatically vibrate there), then in such a way I do not correct the distortion to the program? Crop… melodiously won’t bend the photo to the side?

  • nate

    Something I do not understand, is there an article about a removable flash or built-in? Focus ring? Where is it? I don’t have one on the Nikon D3100

    • Arkady Shapoval

      Flash - no difference. The d3100 camera can only be used with a lens, and the lens must have a focusing ring.

      • kingsler

        Hello Arkady, I want to express my gratitude for the informative articles! I have a question about the maximum macro, I did everything as described above. The object is sharp, I’m approaching blurry, I’m taking a picture and it’s a muddy picture. Can you tell me my mistake?

  • Wolfontyer

    Micro! Photo is not only landscapes, portraits and still lifes. This is her and - a way to learn about the world! Some people are fond of macro photography, it is beautiful and educational. But, macro can be ... - micro !!!

    The first photo is a maximum of macro photography, which allows the whale optics 18-55, and then the most interesting begins ... Everything was done with the same optics, distanced, and the last photos in the series, also inverted. Camera - Nikon D40X, lens - AF-S Nikkor 18-55 f / 3.5-5.6 GII ED.

    • Rodion

      Do you have your own blog with individual achievements in this blog?)

      • Wolfontyer

        There is no blog yet ... I just wanted to share ideas and examples, in addition to an interesting article by Arkady) Equipment for macro photography may cost nothing and look like this -)))

  • Wolfontyer

    The maximum standard macro on the whale.

  • Wolfontyer

    Zoom with the distance of the lens from the carcass.

  • Wolfontyer

    The increase with the distance of the lens from the carcass number 2.

  • Wolfontyer

    Flip the lens with the distance of the lens from the carcass.

  • Wolfontyer

    And what will happen if you look at the leaf of a plant like that?

  • Wolfontyer

    Visible cell structure! But beautiful :)

  • Wolfontyer

    100% size.

  • Oleg

    Your quote - "One of the solutions is to use lenses from a full frame on a cropped matrix."
    Damn ... I just read an article about lenses for full-size cameras and they DO NOT RECOMMEND to use them for CROP cameras. True, the motivation was not in the technical aspect, but in financial expediency. Why should they buy an expensive lens if a crop device still cannot fully reveal the potential of a lens for a full-size device? Found a VERY cheap version of such a lens for my D5100 and now I don't know what to do, buy or not buy? What do you think? The price, well, VERY funny!

    • KalekseyG

      there are enough inadequacies in the network - they can advise a lot of things. take it and don't bother

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